Database Develop

Car kit done

I got my car kit done a few weeks ago, but still haven't found the time to put together an article on it. Here are the photos I took, though, feel free to ask questions if you like.
This project is not trivial and took a lot of time. It could be easier if you're willing to settle for more simplicity, like only getting sound out. I wanted to have sound, serial, power, the works. It requires the ability to solder small connectors and skill with a Dremel (high speed rotary tool). Basically I took one of the charging adapters apart to get the connector, and duplicated the mounting plate for it inside the cradle using a CD-ROM case cover. Some of the fitment is pretty tight, so you have to have a steady hand with the Dremel. The mount you see on the rear of the cradle is a leftover from a Nokia kit I believe. It is a standard car cell mount which can be purchased in many forms from many sources. There are also flexible pole mounts and others available.
The end result is that I can drop the XDA into the cradle in the car and it is charged, the Pharos GPS is connected (via the PS/2 connector you see), and stereo output is provided via the three-conductor jack on the back of the cradle. I am using the built-in microphone, after some experimentation with other options. It appears the XDA needs a high level microphone input, a straight microphone does not work. This sounds fine to most callers, but it means that I can't put the device into "car" mode which means you also get sound from the speaker on the device.
Hmmm, unfortunately, I can't find the pic I shot of it actually mounted in the car, so I'll shoot that tomorrow and post it.
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Respect, very well done!

Very well done indeed.
Just a tiny remark: Do note that the mounting screws for the attachment bracket will prevent you from using the extended battery that clips onto the back of the device... Glue might have been better.

Thanks for the compliments.
I agree that is a concern if using an extended battery. Flat head screws would work also. I will never use an extended battery, so I didn't bother. Glue would have been ineffective though because the mounting system isn't flat on the surface where it attaches to the cradle; it has lots of air space there, it is not solid.
Another possiblity is to attach the mount on the bottom of the cradle. I didn't do that because I'm putting it in a minivan with a high dash, and this arrangement proved to provide perfect positioning.
Here's are the photos of the kit in the car:

Someone on another forum asked for more details on this, so I thought I'd copy them here also. Mostly parts list and some construction details.
The parts list will make you laugh... In photos 1, 3, and 4 you see how I'm take a CD-ROM case cover to turn it into the mount for the connector. The edge, as you see in the photo, is perfect to "notch" into the little tabs on the bottom plate of the cradle. Notice that the stock PCB has holes to catch on little pins on those tabs; the rolled edge of the CD case is perfect to catch on this also. Same thickness. The connector from the AC adapter is thicker than the stock connector, so I had to cut out that piece and use another to hold the connector in place; alignment is perfect using that method. It was glued to the other piece with Duco.
In photo 2 you see the "ears" that I peeled back from the connector; these used to be the locking tabs. Later they will become the method to attach the connector to the plastic. In photos 5/6/7 you can see how I used large-head screws and nuts with washers to attach those tabs to the plastic. I made the tabs into a loop and measured their position, bent them as needed, then once the connector fit in the cradle just right, put on the screws. The connector is VERY solidy fixed this way, surprisingly.
Other parts... Standard stereo 3.5mm plug from an electronics supply house. The PS/2 style connector for the serial feed from the Pharos GPS was just cut off from an old keyboard that no longer works. (Thus justifying why I have had a dead keyboard in my closet for two years...) The power supply connection is the stock connector from the cradle originally. You also see a 2.5mm connector in one photo; that was going to be for the microphone, but I discovered it would require additional electronics. Therefore I didn't use it, and I leave the phone in regular (not car) mode, using the built-in microphone. It's not perfect but very good. People say I sound a bit distant but 100% intelligible.
The mount is something I had in my "cell phone stuff" parts box. After 15 years of using a wide variety of phones/mounts/kits, I have a lot of spares and extras. I'm 90% sure this came from a Nokia 82xx series car kit, or possibly a 61/51xx kit. In any case, mounts use a standardized bolt format like this, and you can buy MANY different types of mounts at cellular dealers. I have one on my desk (where I mounted by other cradle which I modified to allow use of the headset while cradled) which is a flexible any-position gooseneck type. The little metal plate affixing the mount is something I cut from flat aluminum; it's actually a prototype of the mount that I used to mount my last cell phone onto my motorcycle's clutch master cylinder (the PPC-PE mount for the bike is next). It's just to back up the plastic for strength, and since it was already cut for the size/bolt patter of a cell mount, it was easy. It prevents the use of an auxilliary battery on the PPC, so if that's a concern, you'd have to use an alternate method. Also, attaching the mount to the bottom of the unit is perfectly viable. In my case, I chose not to because this afforded a better position in my car.
So as far as the electrical connections... Very basic. You can see a pinout of the XDA connector here: http://www.mywirelessoffice.com/xda/connector/
The Pharos cable pinout is here, and was provided by someone else on PPC Thoughts: http://www.mywirelessoffice.com/pharos/pinout.html
Tools list:
Fine-point 25w soldering iron with a good, clean tip
Very thin solder, rosin core
Small cutters and needle nose
Dremel, cut-off wheel, and round shaping tool bit
Voltmeter helps if you have any issues/doubts
Screwdrivers and pliers

Carlos,
Before you know it you'll be an "XDA-Devoloper #carlos"
I guessing that somewhere on this sight there will be a more glorified copy of your report before long...
For the audio out, etc...
Is there a way of connecting this to the car stereo directly?
I remember a guy that had this with his nokia 7210 (matrix type). Again, nokia seem to do everything first (ish...).
When in his car and he received a phone call, it came all throught the speakers etc. funky!!!
MmF :roll:

Oh yeah, I had that with my Nokia 8200. Also had a "car" kit for it on my motorcycle, so I could talk on the phone in the helmet as well as the passenger and other bikes (if similarly equipped). It cuts off the radio automatically. I still have the rest of the system on the bike, but now have to build a holder and interface for the XDA. I have always has car kits that are system integrated, but the XDA is the first where I had to start from scratch.
Here's a photo of the bike setup for the Nokia:
Anyway, piping the sound through the car system can be done in many different ways. If you have a system with seperate amplifiers, you can buy a simple mixer to insert the sound before the amps. Or, many head units these days (like the CD-MP3 player on my bike) have front-panel 3.5mm inputs. I used to have an Eclipse CD changer/controller that automatically switched over to a back panel auxiliary connection when it detected input on that connection. Of course, there are the rudimentary cassette adapters and the RF injectors like the Radio Shack iRock which put the sound on an FM frequency.
There are a lot of solutions, just depends on your current setup and desired budget.

HTC Kaiser 维修站

(以下内容是原创,B&G硬件组制作)
HTC Kaiser维修站
现在就带大家了解HTC Kaiser的硬件和硬件问题的解决方法!
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再看主板背面
CPU：Qualcomm(高通)MSM7200
字库:Samsung(三星)743
电源：Qualcom(高通)pm7500
先看看手机开机的工作原理图
从图上就可以看清楚他的工作原理,也就是说,有一环出了问题,他就不开机了!
再用文字把他的工作原理说一遍:
装上电池,这时候,主电源就开始工作了,也给副电源电让他准备工作,如果这时按开机键,主,副电源就会输出电,给CPU供电,CPU也输出电和数据给其他元件,同时间CPU给字库供电,读取字库里面的数据,得到了数据让更多元件工作!这时候手机就开始搜索信号,搜索完了,进入待机状态!大致的工作原理就是这样!
下面就看看信号部分和GPS部分
很多人都问我GPS芯片在那?其实CPU就是GPS的芯片,通过中频接收和发射!信号部分就不多说了,如果信号有问题,都是中频和功放问题多!
下面就教大家解决硬件上出现的问题!
解决Kaiser白屏的问题
现在先带大家了解Kaiser白屏的问题!看图
先了解会引起白屏的硬件有CPU,主板上的排线接口,排线和屏,(不过CPU和排线就很少出问题,主要是排线和屏多,主要都是排线问题),如果排线坏了怎么办呢?
如果大家有看过我发表的Hermes的维修文章和Kaiser硬件测评就可以知道,Hermes和Kaiser显示的工作原理都差不多,那就说Kaiser也有显示IC在排线上,图上也有介绍!
如果排线坏了,换吗?现在Kaiser的排线市场换是200以上,如果有更省钱的方法呢?下面就说说这比换排线更省钱的方法
(注意:以下方法只能解决百分之90,有的完成坏了是要换的!)
看过的Hermes文章的网友都知道,Hermes白屏很多时候都是前按键板上的IC嘘焊(不过也有坏的)
Kaiser和Hermes一样,在按键上也有显示和按键IC,也是嘘焊比较多!不过Kaiser的显示IC是封胶的,在外面维修的,见到是封胶很都不会去修,先看图
再看看拆胶后
在这么小的板上拆胶是讲点技术,不过大家想想,换排线是200rmb以上,这方法最多不超100rmb以内,可以省下不必要的钱!只要大家找些技术过得去的维修师傅就可以了!如果他不会这方法,你可以给他看图,他就会的了!
希望这方法可以帮到大家!文章会不断更新!准备发表Kaiser不开机问题和信号问题!大家留意咯!

great, but can you translate this to english, mate?

You know, I was thinking that this rom development forum has covered just about everything that I could possibly want to know about my Kaiser.
But then I thought, not everything, I really wish that someone could explain a fix for the Kaiser white screen problem in Chinese.
Just as I was about to mention that to Dave, ....Voila !.......lo and behold ..............

denco7 said:
You know, I was thinking that this rom development forum has covered just about everything that I could possibly want to know about my Kaiser.
But then I thought, not everything, I really wish that someone could explain a fix for the Kaiser white screen problem in Chinese.
Just as I was about to mention that to Dave, ....Voila !.......lo and behold ..............
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Come on we can translate it off to google to see what comes out with bound to be funny brb "give up too much to copy and paste but google made sense"

I was bored... Here is the Google translation:
(The following content is original, B & G Hardware group production)
HTC Kaiser pit stop
Now we understand the HTC Kaiser with the hardware and hardware solution to the problem!
Look at the back of the motherboard
CPU: Qualcomm (Qualcomm) MSM7200
Font: Samsung (Samsung) 743
Power Supply: Qualcom (Qualcomm) pm7500
Take a look at the work phone boot schematic
From the chart you can look at his works, that is, there is a ring out of a problem, he will not turn in!
Then the text of his works, said again:
Fitted with battery, this time, the main power supply began to work, but also to the Vice-power electricity to prepare his work, if then press start button, main, Deputy Power would be the output of electricity, to the CPU power supply, CPU is also the output power and data to other components, at the same time CPU power supply to the font, font which reads data from the data so that more components have been working! this time began to search cell phone signals, the search is over, enter the standby mode! generally works is one such!
Here's look at some of the signal part and the GPS
Many people have asked me GPS chip in it? In fact, CPU is a GPS chip, through the IF receive and transmit! Signal part of it is to say, if the signal there is a problem, and IF amplifier are many problems!
Here we teach to resolve hardware problems!
Kaiser white screen to solve the problem
Would now like to take everyone to understand Kaiser white screen problem! See Figure
First understand the hardware will cause white screen with CPU, motherboard cable interface cable and the screen (although the CPU and scheduling problems seldom lines, mainly multi-row line and the screen are mainly cable problem) If the cable is broken how do?
If you have read my published articles and Kaiser maintenance Hermes hardware evaluation can tell, Hermes, and Kais er display works are similar, it said that Kaiser is also shown in the row of IC line, the map also described!
If the cable is broken, change do? Now Kaiser's cable market for more than 200, if there are cheaper ways? Here's talk about this cable is cheaper than changing the method
(Note: The following methods can only solve 90 per cent, and some bad is the incumbent, the completion of!)
User Hermes seen articles all know, Hermes black and white buttons are often pre-board IC boo welding (But there are also bad)
Kaiser and Hermes, as the keys on the display and keypad are also IC, is also the welding are more boo!, But Kaiser is a sealed plastic display IC, in the outside maintenance, see that the rubber seal will not go to repair it, look at Figure
Let us now look after the demolition of glue
The board split in such a small rubber-speaking point technology, but we think about it, change row line is 200rmb, and this method within a maximum of not more 100rmb, you can save unnecessary money! As long as we get some decent repair technology teacher can a! If he does not this method, you can give him the plug, he would of had!
Hope that this approach can help you! Articles will continue to update! Kaiser is ready for release does not boot problem and signal problem! We pay attention to strategy!

It will be nice to know why he posted it here...LOL

lol this must be start any thread you want in this forum tonight

bartgee said:
great, but can you translate this to english, mate?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Come to my site, HTC hardware, many articles, thanks for the support, my English is not good, I am sorry

What is the Kaiser white screen problem?

Dukenukemx said:
What is the Kaiser white screen problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LCD Display White

gokto1 said:
(以下内容是原创,B&G硬件组制作)
HTC Kaiser维修站
现在就带大家了解HTC Kaiser的硬件和硬件问题的解决方法!
再看主板背面
CPU：Qualcomm(高通)MSM7200
字库:Samsung(三星)743
电源：Qualcom(高通)pm7500
先看看手机开机的工作原理图
从图上就可以看清楚他的工作原理,也就是说,有一环出了问题,他就不开机了!
再用文字把他的工作原理说一遍:
装上电池,这时候,主电源就开始工作了,也给副电源电让他准备工作,如果这时按开机键,主,副电源就会输出电,给CPU供电,CPU也输出电和数据给其他元件,同时间CPU给字库供电,读取字库里面的数据,得到了数据让更多元件工作!这时候手机就开始搜索信号,搜索完了,进入待机状态!大致的工作原理就是这样!
下面就看看信号部分和GPS部分
很多人都问我GPS芯片在那?其实CPU就是GPS的芯片,通过中频接收和发射!信号部分就不多说了,如果信号有问题,都是中频和功放问题多!
下面就教大家解决硬件上出现的问题!
解决Kaiser白屏的问题
现在先带大家了解Kaiser白屏的问题!看图
先了解会引起白屏的硬件有CPU,主板上的排线接口,排线和屏,(不过CPU和排线就很少出问题,主要是排线和屏多,主要都是排线问题),如果排线坏了怎么办呢?
如果大家有看过我发表的Hermes的维修文章和Kaiser硬件测评就可以知道,Hermes和Kaiser显示的工作原理都差不多,那就说Kaiser也有显示IC在排线上,图上也有介绍!
如果排线坏了,换吗?现在Kaiser的排线市场换是200以上,如果有更省钱的方法呢?下面就说说这比换排线更省钱的方法
(注意:以下方法只能解决百分之90,有的完成坏了是要换的!)
看过的Hermes文章的网友都知道,Hermes白屏很多时候都是前按键板上的IC嘘焊(不过也有坏的)
Kaiser和Hermes一样,在按键上也有显示和按键IC,也是嘘焊比较多!不过Kaiser的显示IC是封胶的,在外面维修的,见到是封胶很都不会去修,先看图
再看看拆胶后
在这么小的板上拆胶是讲点技术,不过大家想想,换排线是200rmb以上,这方法最多不超100rmb以内,可以省下不必要的钱!只要大家找些技术过得去的维修师傅就可以了!如果他不会这方法,你可以给他看图,他就会的了!
希望这方法可以帮到大家!文章会不断更新!准备发表Kaiser不开机问题和信号问题!大家留意咯!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
非常好的文章，中国网友支持！
A very good article, China Netizen support！

Dock Pinout

Hi.
Does anyone know or can find out exactly what the three pins are used for? +5v, GND and control(and how to us it)?

Glithramir said:
Hi.
Does anyone know or can find out exactly what the three pins are used for? +5v, GND and control(and how to us it)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ummmm..... seriously?

Yes, If I ever want to build a custom dock or whatever.
I have searched and found no documentation about the small docking pins so far.

I second this.
I'd like to know which is +5v, gnd and what resistance (to ground) is expected on the control point to mimic the desktop dock

My results
I plan on making a charging-only dock as well. Here's what I measured on the Google dock pins (my numbering).
1 - 5V
2 - CTL
(mic port)
3 - GND
There's about 5.2V (no load) at the dock between pins 1 and 3. The dock also measures 10kohm between pins 2 and 3. It seems pretty straight forward, and there don't seem to be any other interesting or unexpected voltage or resistance values between other pin combinations.
The phone does start charging fine when applying an external 5V on pins 1 and 3, but I have been unable to force it into the dock mode. I have connected an external 10k resistor between pins 2 and 3 both with and without power applied to the charging pins with no luck. Any ideas? I just played with it for a few minutes, but I'll post if I figure anything out when I get back to it.

When you manually put the charge on, does that affect the bluetooth settings?
I'm thinking maybe when it has a charge through the pins it activates bluetooth so it can pair with the docks bluetooth, and that activates the dock mode?

nexus dock
is pretty damn cool...
when i get a chance this weekend, i'm going to hook up a meter to the pin-outs and see what it's doing with the 3rd pin to force clock mode

that would be awesome

Ok so after reading some dock threads, I decided to contribute something useful to the discussion by taking my dock apart. Unfortunately, what I've found is bad news for a simple DIY dock. The middle pin looks to be a bit pattern toggled by the dock upon insertion of the phone.
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The bottom trace is the full signal toggling. The top trace is zoomed in on the left side of the bottom trace.

Thank you very much!! Too bad tho...

dhendrix11 said:
Unfortunately, what I've found is bad news for a simple DIY dock. The middle pin looks to be a bit pattern toggled by the dock upon insertion of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I interpreted the binary pattern, its saying "F*ck Apple"

grumble grumble..
beat me to it.. working too many hours for hobbies..

Awesome, thanks for the info. I haven't been able to get back to additional testing or taking mine apart yet.
1. How hard was the dock to take apart? Did it just require peeling off the rubber bottom and removing screws, or something more destructive?
2. I was wondering if you could post or email a higher resolution image of your annotated board layout - I couldn't quite make out some of the text in the upper left.
3. Does that bit pattern ever change, and is it bi-directional? That delay in the middle makes it look to me like a challenge-response. My random guess is that the phone sends that first pattern when it gets power on the dock pins, and then the dock (if connected) responds with some kind of identifier (home/car/etc). It should be pretty easy to replicate such a static pattern/response with a simple microcontroller...
Thanks,
James

DayBlur said:
Awesome, thanks for the info. I haven't been able to get back to additional testing or taking mine apart yet.
1. How hard was the dock to take apart? Did it just require peeling off the rubber bottom and removing screws, or something more destructive?
2. I was wondering if you could post or email a higher resolution image of your annotated board layout - I couldn't quite make out some of the text in the upper left.
3. Does that bit pattern ever change, and is it bi-directional? That delay in the middle makes it look to me like a challenge-response. My random guess is that the phone sends that first pattern when it gets power on the dock pins, and then the dock (if connected) responds with some kind of identifier (home/car/etc). It should be pretty easy to replicate such a static pattern/response with a simple microcontroller...
Thanks,
James
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. It was very easy to take the dock apart. Remove 4 screws under the rubber bottom and you get to the PCB. Remove 1 screw to take the pcb out. You can disconnect the wire harness that connects the PCB to the 3 dock pins very easily.
2. Original high res photo is in the attached zip file.
3. I hooked 5V between the pwr and gnd pins on the phone without the dock, and a 10k resistor from the middle pin to GND. Upon connecting the 5V, the phone outputs 9 pulses @ 25Hz. However, that doesn't really jive with the timing from my previous scope captures, so maybe I wasn't looking at the whole picture connected through the dock. I don't feel like taking my dock apart again tonight, but I'll see about some further investigation this weekend.

Anyone have a logic analyzer? The transferred data could be captured and decoded. It probably wouldn't be too tough to code up a microcontroller to interact with it for a DIY dock if we knew what it was saying.
If anyone wants to send me a dock, I could hook it up to mine and try to get a binary dump.

The previous image of the waveform looks like it could be a "tone burst", or being square wave, its just 10101010101010101010.
It could be used to prevent bounce using a simple circuit on the recieving side like this:
Code:
________
in out ____| |_______
>------||--+----/\/\/\/\------>
|
+---||----+
+ |
|
GND

Here are some better scope captures. The 25Hz pulse train output from the phone only occurs if it's not connected to a dock. If there's a dock present, you get the bit patterns from my original post.
Next I have to figure out if this is bi-directional.

N1 is prolly sending the bursts every few secs, so that when it is placed into a dock, the dock detects presence of N1.
This is where it could get interesting. Since N1 communicates to the dock via BT, it might need to know the dock's BT Device ID (MAC-address-like) - so that it doesn't end up pairing with a different dock that your coworker has in an adjacent cube . So may be what the dock sends back after detecting the N1 is in fact its BT ID ?

rashid11 said:
This is where it could get interesting. Since N1 communicates to the dock via BT, it might need to know the dock's BT Device ID (MAC-address-like) - so that it doesn't end up pairing with a different dock that your coworker has in an adjacent cube . So may be what the dock sends back after detecting the N1 is in fact its BT ID ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://android.git.kernel.org/?p=ke...334736426c8b33;hb=android-msm-2.6.29-nexusone
Could this source explain whats going on?

brotbuexe said:
http://android.git.kernel.org/?p=ke...334736426c8b33;hb=android-msm-2.6.29-nexusone
Could this source explain whats going on?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It sure looks like it. It looks like the signal is a 1 wire interface, using MFM encoding to send a small set of commands and results back and forth between the dock and the phone.

[Q] Galaxy S TV-out problem

My GT-I9000 tv out doesn't work properly. I have used the search button and all the other problems are nowhere near mine and turns out to work p[perfectly for them, but not for me. Whenever I plug in my Galaxy S GT-I9000(with tv out turned on & NTSC cause i live in the states), it shows me a somewhat a static picture and a static noise. By "Somewhat" i mean i can see a little bit of my home screen but in black 9in white and its all static, looks kinda like when you tune into a tv channel that doesn't exist in your area, and the audio is just a static/buzzing noise that blocks over music/videos i try to play. I am unrooted running the JM1 firmware by the official kies update. Also, i have the official Samsung 3.5mm video output cable for galaxy S. Tried on Iphone 3gs, screen doesn't work, but audio works fine. On the GT-I9000, i tried plugging the red cable in to yellow slot and plug it in by the colors, and totally randomized and still doesn't work. What do i need to do to fix this? Please Help!

I've got the same problem, plugged it into the video and audio input on the TV and I get grey stripped lined flashing across the screen.
Strange thing is it's doing it when I plug any of the rca ends into the video input, it's like they are somehow connected.
Has anyone got the pin-out for the lead.....unless I have a very uniquie lead.
It's a 3.5mm 4 way to RCA lead.
Logicalstep

did you guys get the proper Nokia CA-75U cable?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=694235
also in the Settings > Sound & Display menu, check the box for TV out

No but I've got a decent cable. I can't believe that it's anything major. I don;t suppose I could trouble you for a close up picture of the 3.5mm jack on your could I AllGamer?
I was thinking it's probably to do with the shape of the end tip and that I might sand it down a little and solder it up a bit to make it thicker.
Yes I could buy a new cable but I'm no convinced it'll work, I reckon it could be the phone.
Logicalstep

I got the one from Samsung. this is the second cable I've tried and it doesn't work. I've also tried on multiple TV's, including a Samsung TV

Same for me.
In italy.
TV out checked, PAL.
Black and white "noise". If i play a song is audible but disturbed, i can see SOME of the things in the display... I may hate to take a picture, i can't explain myself

I had an issue with tv out....touch input was all messed, was registering clicks in wrong screen locations...etc.
just realised it was an issue with the tele i tried it on.....i tried it on an old crt television....on my lcd screen, it works just fine!

What you are saying here I experienced to... The problem is that you use an unsuported cable... If you like cutting wires just switch the ground conector with the tvout and it will work. Will put a photo to explain if needed.

Yea if you can put a photo that will be great

I don't know if you will understand what you see in the pic but I will try to explain. The slim red and white wires are for sound, after you cut your wire, solder those two back together. And now you have left 2 more wires: the ground wire which was wrapped around the other ones and another wire, tv-out, which normally has yellow insulation. Now you must solder them in cross.... Hope that helps... If I knew English better I could explain this much better

ill try that but can you at least send me a link what cable to buy for TV-out to work?

almi88 said:
I don't know if you will understand what you see in the pic but I will try to explain. The slim red and white wires are for sound, after you cut your wire, solder those two back together. And now you have left 2 more wires: the ground wire which was wrapped around the other ones and another wire, tv-out, which normally has yellow insulation. Now you must solder them in cross.... Hope that helps... If I knew English better I could explain this much better
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah! It works!
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i also have the problem that if i connect the video out it works good but touchscreen simply goes crazy...using multitouch test programs you can see that if the tv (CRT) is turned off and the cable connected it works ok, but as soon as i turn on the tv touchscreen register random touches everywhere...
any chance to fix this issue?

Cutting and solding cables? No thank you, I intend to keep my fingers in ten (individual) pieces. However there is a more subtle way to get good picture and sound out with an ordinary 3.5mm - 3 rca cable.
what I do is this:
1. enable the tv-out and select PAL beacause I´m a mighty viking berserker living in the fabled scandinavian kingdom of sweden (thats NTSC for yanks...hehe...)
2. plug the cable to the tv
3. heres the good stuff: first I plug the 3.5mm cable all the way in (untill it "clicks) whereupon the tv freaks out and looks all messed up (and sounds terrible).
Now I just gently drag the plug out (super slow) untill the picture suddenly manifests and everything just bloody works
Tip: this makes your setup a bit sensitive when you move your phone around (allthough you can play games if your not the "throwing the xbox controller in the wall when pwnd by a smug mate" kinda person.
Hope this helps someone who has lost all hope. Auf Wienerschnitzel!

I'm experience the same problem. But howcome sdfzhsd using the samsung cable, which I suppose it is manufactured to work with galaxy s, does not work?
I will try doing this in my cable tomorow and post here if it worked.
Thanks for the explanation

Could one of you assist me here?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=891853

TettZor said:
Cutting and solding cables? No thank you, I intend to keep my fingers in ten (individual) pieces. However there is a more subtle way to get good picture and sound out with an ordinary 3.5mm - 3 rca cable.
what I do is this:
1. enable the tv-out and select PAL beacause I´m a mighty viking berserker living in the fabled scandinavian kingdom of sweden (thats NTSC for yanks...hehe...)
2. plug the cable to the tv
3. heres the good stuff: first I plug the 3.5mm cable all the way in (untill it "clicks) whereupon the tv freaks out and looks all messed up (and sounds terrible).
Now I just gently drag the plug out (super slow) untill the picture suddenly manifests and everything just bloody works
Tip: this makes your setup a bit sensitive when you move your phone around (allthough you can play games if your not the "throwing the xbox controller in the wall when pwnd by a smug mate" kinda person.
Hope this helps someone who has lost all hope. Auf Wienerschnitzel!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found out the same too.
but is that because of the ground wire ?? would like to use it while still be able to handle phone
So now I tried with my cable to switch the ground on the video and now it works perfect IF the audio L R are not plugged in.
if so there is so much noise that text is unreadable.
Could this be off cheap cables maybe??

almi88 said:
I don't know if you will understand what you see in the pic but I will try to explain. The slim red and white wires are for sound, after you cut your wire, solder those two back together. And now you have left 2 more wires: the ground wire which was wrapped around the other ones and another wire, tv-out, which normally has yellow insulation. Now you must solder them in cross.... Hope that helps... If I knew English better I could explain this much better
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Worked... Thank you!!!

Galaxy tv out fix.
Hello, for all those Galaxy owners out there having a problem with the tv out, I have found a cable that works and you don't have to get it online. I went to The Source,(Radio Shack) for my American counterparts and picked up a Nexxtech cable part no. 4218509 for $5 on clearance and it works without fail. Not sure if you'll be able to find one as it was a clearance item, however, it's worth a looking in to. At least you won't have to wait for delivery.
I tried so many different cables and I am just glad to have finally found one that works and I am able to pass it on.
Good luck to everyone!

i am using the cable that i got with my old nokia n95 phone , this cable did the job 4 me perfectly !

Nexus 7 Car Install

Hey all, here is another car install in my '99 Acura TL that I thought I'd share. I think I've seen a ton of other projects on xda, and they all helped so I'm hoping this will help some others as this is such an easy and cheap project to do that I think I've convinced a couple of friends to let me help them go this route instead of spending 500+ on an indash system.
My original setup was with a rooted CM 10.1 Nook Color. I thought I'd go cheap with it, and after too many headaches and the want to be able to do more things, I gave up on it. Here is a photo of my original setup, which was very unclean.
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The Nexus 7 seemed like my best option for features, my only problem was the lack of storage. However, with OTG, that problem was easily solved. My requirements were:
Enough storage for music and a couple hundred music videos
Bluetooth audio to eliminate need for AUX input
Bluetooth connectivity to phone via Tablet Talk
Bluetooth OBD-II (no real reason other than the adapters are dirt cheap anyway, why not?)
Easily removeable if I have to leave my car somewhere
GPS built in
Cleaner look
Parts List:
Nexus 7 16GB
iKross Car Dashboard Mount Holder
Sima 225-Watt Dual Outlet Power Inverter
Nexus 7 wall charger + cable
HHI ReElegant Crystal Shield Hard Case
Down Angled Micro B USB Cable
Micro USB Host OTG Cable
Belkin USB 4-Port Hub
IOGEAR SD Card Reader
Yongtek ELM Bluetooth OBD-II
Blackberry Remote Stereo Bluetooth Gateway
HON/AUX DMX V.1 Acura AUX Input
Apps List:
SmoothROM 5.0
Timur's kernel
Poweramp
Audio Glow
Volume+
MX Player (Music videos)
Tablet Talk
Automateit Pro
CoPilot Live USA
BT Auto Connect
Torque
The mount that I used put it off center, which was fine for me but if anyone was in the passengers seat, it was kind of annoying.
So I decided to mount it in the middle and remove the cd tray that was above the cd player. I knew I'd have to remove the tray because the mount that I bought is huge. But it's solid and I really like it, and wouldn't have any use for the tray anyway with it being covered up. Plus, removing it gives me room to store all of the OTG stuff. I didn't want an indash setup because replacing my stock system is a pain to retain the stock Bose speakers, amp, and subwoofer. Moving the stock stereo was more than I wanted to deal with, and I wanted to be able take it out to troubleshoot, update, take on trips, etc. But I still wanted to get as close as I could to an indash setup.
However, because the shape is meant to curve over dashboards, it created a bit of an issue and stuck out quite a bit.
Doesn't look like much, but I could easily touch it while my hand was on the wheel. That needed to change. So, I hacked off literally as much as I could with a dremel and glued it back together. I was afraid this glue wouldn't hold, but it feels pretty solid. I may have to use a stronger epoxy in the future, but this works for now. Not great looking, but you can't see it anyway.
This same day, all of my OTG parts came in. Loaded up the card with all of the music videos I own, and it worked on the first try. Thanks Timur!
Had to get the OBD-II reader in, but it's in a really awkward spot in my car. There is supposed to be a change tray here, but the reader sticks out so far and would leave a huge hole that things could fall in. Until I can get some plastic to mold in there, this is the best I've got for now. Honestly, I may not even use it 99% of the time. Don't need to monitor much, but cool to have.
And everything is ready. Decided to cover up more of the stock radio since I don't really need it. I have steering wheel controls that I use, and only use one FM and one AM sports talk stations, so it's unnecessary for me to have to see the screen. Would rather have less of the air controls covered.
As you can see, the gap is much smaller and hugs the radio closer.
As an added bonus, I can remove the tablet from the case instead of using the suction cup on the tablet itself. These cups on this mount are very strong, but I don't really want to remove it from that every time. The case isn't terribly easy to remove from either, but it gives me that option. I have 5% tint on my car, so I need a sun shade and I should be pretty theft deterrent. My car is rarely left in bad places, and if so, I can lock it in my glove box or take it with me. Heat and cold are the only other elements that might affect it, but a shade should help that in combination with my tint.
Future plans:
More OTG stuff - Not sure what else that entails yet
Backup camera - I wish there was a Bluetooth option because I don't care to wire through this car
USB Audio - It's not really necessary at this point with the BB Gateway, but it's easy to do
Thanks for checking this out, feel free to ask any questions or leave any comments. The photos really don't do any justice to the setup, but it gives you the general idea. I never really felt like I had what I wanted with the Nook, the Nexus is exactly what I was looking for the whole time!

Two pairs of sunglasses.....
Sent from my GT-I9300 using xda premium