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does anyone know of any tweak, app or utility that will disable the semi-regular notification telling me that "the usb port I am using does not have sufficient current to charge the device, please close some applications." It comes on whenever I am playing music and then switch over to my gps app. I'm never really in the car long enough and I think the normal warning when the battery gets low is sufficient enough without this thing popping up ever time i open a new app.
Any help is very appreciated. Its an ATT Pure with the last feb 16th energy rom, maxmanila, and sense 2.5
Thanks!
This warning message is to alert you to the fact that you are discharging the battery at a greater rate than you are charging.
It is not to tell you the battery is low although that is what would eventually happen rather more quickly than normal.
In effect the charge circuit is being overloaded and the battery capacity is being drawn down and depending on the usage, will result in increased heat generation which is bad for the circuits and the battery cell.
I gather you are using the device in the car. You should have a USB adapter that gives 1000mAh, at least, and if it's not then the associated circuits and also the wiring, could well be showing signs of damage from heat build up.
If the USB adapter is rated at anything less than 1000mAh I would suggest obtaining a more suitable one because it's not up to the job.
As for disabling the notification it will be a registry tweak if it's possible at all.
thanks for the help.
i checked the car charger,it is rated correctly. this also happens when its plugged into the pc usb port, or a powered hub. the only time it doesnt happen is when its connected to the htc ac adapter. when i am using it in the car, it still charges to full ( albeit slower than normal) even with the tom tom ap, music player, palringo, and bing open. I was aware that the battery will drain, i just want the only warning to be the low battery warning, which i have set to 20 percent, but even in the car, it doesnt ever get that low ( i do periodically discharge it to empty for battery maintenance reasons)
dezaras6 said:
thanks for the help.
i checked the car charger,it is rated correctly. this also happens when its plugged into the pc usb port, or a powered hub. the only time it doesnt happen is when its connected to the htc ac adapter. when i am using it in the car, it still charges to full ( albeit slower than normal) even with the tom tom ap, music player, palringo, and bing open. I was aware that the battery will drain, i just want the only warning to be the low battery warning, which i have set to 20 percent, but even in the car, it doesnt ever get that low ( i do periodically discharge it to empty for battery maintenance reasons)
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If you have a car charger rated at 1000mAh and it is exhibiting what you say then there is something wrong with it!
USB ports are rated at 500mAh nominal. That is to say the manufacturer of the equipment should make sure that one port will give that output.
It sometimes doesn't work that way and you get badly designed port power feeds across however many ports that you have and if you have more than one in use then the current drops of accordingly. Then it struggles to charge your phone.
Even powered hubs can suffer this way.
When you use a wall charger that all changes and the whole thing works efficiently.
Having your phone under stress like this in your car is not a good thing and neither is periodic discharge. It's just not necessary.
Could you please give me an advice? I'm using my tom-tom charger for my td2 in the car. It says 2A for output while the td2 original wall charger says 1A. Do you reckon is there any problem? many thanks.
If the car charger at 2Ah does not have a "shut down" circuit, or the charging system in the phone does not, then you will, in short order, smoke the battery.
Ok, txs jdwilson. You mean "shut down" circuit as a way the charger prevents the energy pass to the phone when the baterry if full but allows it when more energy is needed? By the way, now i've notice that my tom-tom says input 1A! So, the charger as the "shut down" circuit or tom-tom as in it, or i will have the same problem on my tom-tom, although the charger is the tom-tom original one. Thanks
Hi there!
My brother just bought me a spare battery. Well it still needs to be charged after usuage. The thing is I have to swap the batteries everytime I used them both. The solution is to buy a cradle to charge it but these are kinda expensive.
My solution would be to build my own charging cradle. But I lack the knowledge of electricity skills to succesfully making such charger without blowing up my battery. Therefor I'm asking the community on XDA for help!
Well this is what I need:
- Battery has 3 connectors: + and - and on in the middle but i dont know what that is.
- I have a usb cable with 4 wires (black/red/green/white)
- I want to connect the usb connecter to my PC or AC adapter and the wires to my battery.
This way I can charge both my HD2 and the spare battery at the same time.
The question is, is this possible and if yes, can this be done just like that or do I need transistors or conductors (or whatever they may called). It needs to be safe, I dont wanna blow up my battery or my AC adapter nor my PC...
Do not even contemplate it.
It is clear that you do not know enough about batteries.
A quick google for desktop chargers came back with one for only £30
For 25quid i got a spare battery, desktop charger and 2 screen protectors from e-bay. Carnt go wrong at that price
I know that the AC adapter converts the input of electrical energy to my phone, I believe my phone does it to my battery too (thats where I'm not too sure).
All I need to know is if I can charge the battery safely when connecting the red wire to the + and the black wire to the - side of the battery... (The green and white wires are data)
I'm not to sure because the AC adapter has a different output than the PC USB output. Although the USB dilivers a tiny bit less voltage it delivers a significant less amount of Whats (or Amps) Basicly that means it just takes longer for the USB to charge as long as the voltage remains identical. (The USB delivers less voltage but the effect on damaging the battery is minimal because the difference is discardable)
My actuall question was: can I connect my battery directly to the AC adapter or do I need to convert the electical energy again (if my phone does a second convert after the AC adapter).
You can find chargers on eBay for less than 5usd. Buy one or you will fry your battery.
VerusAmos said:
I know that the AC adapter converts the input of electrical energy to my phone, I believe my phone does it to my battery too (thats where I'm not too sure).
All I need to know is if I can charge the battery safely when connecting the red wire to the + and the black wire to the - side of the battery... (The green and white wires are data)
I'm not to sure because the AC adapter has a different output than the PC USB output. Although the USB dilivers a tiny bit less voltage it delivers a significant less amount of Whats (or Amps) Basicly that means it just takes longer for the USB to charge as long as the voltage remains identical. (The USB delivers less voltage but the effect on damaging the battery is minimal because the difference is discardable)
My actuall question was: can I connect my battery directly to the AC adapter or do I need to convert the electical energy again (if my phone does a second convert after the AC adapter).
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Click to collapse
Watts not Whats
Simple answer: No you cannot connect your battery directly to the AC adaptor.
Detailed answer:
The USB port of a computer/AC adaptor provides approx 5V and a variety of currents depending on what the USB lead is plugged into.
This 5V goes to the phone.
Inside the phone is the battery charging circuit, this detects the level of charge in the battery, controls the voltage and current going to the battery to stop it releasing too much hydrogen which would cause the battery to swell and explode (look on youtube for lithium polymer battery fires).
If you think you can create a charging circuit (including selecting the right ICs and programming them) without burning yourself in a hydrogen/lithium fire, be my guest.
Incapable of making an external battery charger...
Here I am trying not to be a complete idiot and then I go and spell watts the wrong way...
But tnx for the replies, that was all I needed to hear... I guess I'll be swapping batteries after all untill I find a cheap external battery charger...
Cheers!!!
Amzer makes a very nice cradle with charging slot for your spare battery. I got mine for $28USD. I'm not going to provide the link to the outfit I bought mine from because they weren't the best of suppliers to buy from. But the Amzer cradle works very well. Downside is that you cannot use it if you have a case for your Leo that wraps around it, and is designed to stay on. Leo must be caseless to fit into the cradle. But even if you don't use the cradle as a cradle, it does have the ability to charge your spare battery.
Hey all, I know this is a development area - but there is no General section for the G9... anyway...
I have an 80 Gen 9 original none hard drive none turbo which im installing in my car. So far it looks really really good - ill post a video when i finally get the facia on it. However I am struggling to keep up with the charge power wise.
I originally brought a tomtom microusb charger - which according to form puts out 1 amp (not enough). This works fine on my HTC evo 3d, but cant keep up with the power consumption of the 80. It does not show as a "slow" charger.
I then brought an adapter off ebay that has a 2.1a and a 1a port. These originally showed as slow, so I made an adapter cable shorting the data pins so it knows its a charger - but neither port can keep the thing powered, and both these and the tomtom 1 amp seem to discharge at the same speed while plugged in.
Im waiting on one from newmp3technology that is stated as a fast charger for the archos g9...
Now, on the device i have turned off bluetooth and wifi turned off, backlight always on at around 1/2 brightness, and i have it running an external laptop hard drive off the port on the back. GPS gets turned on when necassary - but doesnt really seem to negatively affect the power situation (which was kinda surpising). Ive set the maximum CPU usage at just 600mhz to try and kerb the power consumption also. While driving i have Poweramp continually playing, and have used copilot on and off for sat nav. It doesnt drop fast - but nor is it staying fully charged. Im sure I had no problems with this while on AC power in the house.
If anyone knows of a working fast charger, or has a suggestion I would be most greatful. I may between now and then test with an invertor and ac power supply. One other idea I have is to run the USB hard drive with a powered USB hub, to move the power consumption away from the device.
I believe there was one of those dual-usb chargers from Belkin, but knowing them the charger could be pretty expensive.
It also has one 2 amp and one 1 amp slot, though I have not tried it yet.
i have this
http://www.newmp3technology.com/francais/all-Archos-model-charger.htm
This is an other option www.newmp3technology.com/francais/archos-101-80-g9-cigar-split.htm
I also need to be able to run/ charge my 80G9 turbo on the road for long periods.
first the basics, the original Archos cable must be used to get max charge (its short and has the log like thing inline near tablet) every other cable/ wall charger I have tried will only give weak charge and if using tablet with other cable it may never charge at all *if you know this great, but everyday others have to find this out the slow or no charge way
now, that applies to the wall plug for sure but with a cigarette lighter usb adapter I'm not so sure you will get enough juice just with that cable. If there is a 12V adapter or complete plug and usb cord that gives full needed output, great. until its used and proven (real world) I don't know if it exist yet.
the best alternative may be to use a Power Inverter like one below, there are so many available I don't know if the ones with usb outlets would work, I have a cheap inverter I need to try but just with factory Archos wall plug & cable (I've used it in the past to power a hand grinder etc. with no problem, car battery stayed charged up even when vehicle was off)
http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-2003-6-...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1329710122&sr=1-17
I use the original Wall-Charger that came with the Tablet in conjunction with an HTC USB Cable that came with my HTC Desire.
It's charging as fast as with the original Archos USB Cable.
Even the small Wall-Charger from the Desire charges the Tablet very fast.
OK Ive received the so called fast charger from newmp3technology and it registers as a slow charger using the original supplied cable from archos. It took 17 days to arrive... not particularly happy with newmp3technology.
Anyway, I have found that the tomtom charger does actually charge the system while it is active - even though its only a 1 amp charger and the system requires 1.5 amp. Over about a week of driving for approx 1.5 - 2 hours a day the charge has risen from 0% to 19%. I had a USB extension (no more than 1 meter long) in line with the charger and that actually slowed the rate of charge.
The system is active the whole time - usually playing music through power amp, and sometimes using GPS via copilot. Ill test again to see that it can still maintain charge with GPS running. These devices really only require a small amount of power - I used to run a full computer in car and that pulled a bunch of power.
Here's the general section
http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1511
No Probs - unfortunately that section did not exist when i created this thread...
Team,
First off, I want to say thank you for creating an amazing resource for these phones. I currently have a Galaxy S4 Active MF3. I bought the phone with the intent of using it in conjunction with my car stereo, which is a Pioneer 8500 BHS. I've paired this up with a Samsung MHL 2.0 adapter and ARLiberator. On top of this, I have installed a OBD-II bluetooth module in the car that also communicates with the phone. The end result is that the phone delivers full touch screen control of all apps on the phone, full bluetooth hands free calling, voice control, GPS (Tom Tom), Pandora, and most importantly, gives me a second dashboard where I can customize any gauge that the car did not offer stock, such as boost gauge, wideband air/fuel ratio, exhaust gas temperature, and a few other things. I'm using the full version of Torque to do this. It is amazingly useful, with one exception. The Samsung MHL adapter never lets the phone charge at more than 300 milliamps. The USB connection straight from the stereo charges at 900, and a 2.1 AMP charger with the Samsung cable will charge at 1900. However, regardless of the combination I use, the MHL always cuts this down to 300. This causes the phone to lose about 15-20% of it's charge every hour. For short trips, this is OK, but for longer trips, I can no longer use GPS, which is a big problem, as that's the whole reason I got the phone. Other users of the standard Galaxy S4 and this combination have been able to get around this issue by installing a ROM with Fast Charge enabled, which gives them 800 milliamps. This is just enough to let the phone be used and slowly charged at the same time.
I understand that currently we're limited to stock kernels with modifications layered on top (GoldenEye, ETC...), and that the Fast Charge code requires a kernel recompile in order to function. Is this correct? Do I have any other options? I've considered wiring in a wireless charger just to get the phone to charge on long trips, but I'm concerned that wireless charging in addition to the USB input and charge may cause the battery to overheat or reduce it's life.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
as far as I know, there is a possibility of welding a 100 Ohm (or just short circuit (more risky, but I've read that some guys using a standard usb cable with simple bypassed Data-wires in combination with the S4A)) between the D+ and D+ wires of the USB-Cable (should be the green and white wire within the cable). Regarding http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs a resistance below 200 ohm is the sign for a dedicated charging cable/device.
I've seen a manual of an sgs user, having full loading speed in his car, using a modified cable. Unfortunately his manual is in German, u can find it here. All credits belong to him.
by the way, i am pretty sure u will find an similar manual within this xda-board using the right search patterns, cause It does not seem to be device related.
shaDNfro,
Thank you very much for your reply, but unfortunately the 'cable mod' will not work in this instance. The reason that it won't work is that the stereo needs the Data + and Data - for Audio and synchronization data being sent back to the headunit for broadcast, and the MHL blocks the D+ and D- resistance from reaching the phone. To verify this, I took a stock Samsung cable with a voltage inverter in the car, and wired the whole system up into the MHL adapater. The system still charges at 300 ma, despite the fact that I can plug the same cable going into the MHL directly into the phone and get 1900 ma. If I use a 'modded' cable without the inverter, then the MHL still charges at 300 ma, but AppRadio will not function, as it gets no signal from the data ports on the USB. To add insult to injury, the MHL input is a 12 pin interface, and shunting D+ and D- cables on the MHL output is dangerous, as the system is doing more with the 12 pins than a standard 4 pin USB. I really don't want to fry a 400+ dollar phone.
What we really need here is one of two things:
1. The ability to upload a recompiled kernel into the system (I know that we have a bounty on this and it's not going anywhere)
2. The ability to modify the input amperage without a recompiled kernel
I'm not sure if either of the above two things can be done. I'm either going to have to live with this or get a new phone.
If ANYONE has any other ideas, please let me know!
Matt
Is it possible to mod usb cable to take the power directly from car charger?
Connect usb chargin wires to car charger from phones end of usb??
Sent from my GT-I9295 using poor english.
Vaiski said:
Is it possible to mod usb cable to take the power directly from car charger?
Connect usb chargin wires to car charger from phones end of usb??
Sent from my GT-I9295 using poor english.
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Vaiski,
That's not a bad idea! From some more of my recent research, it appears that I now have three options I can look into:
1. Vaiski's idea of adding a 2.1 AMP second USB line to the + and - phone input while cutting the current MHL + and - cable output. This would essentially allow the MHL to get its power from the stereo's USB input, and the phone to get its power from an external, high amperage USB line and still allow me to keep the data flowing between the phone, MHL adapter, and stereo. I've got a second 'generic' MHL adapter that I wouldn't mind cutting up to spare my $50.00 Samsung MHL adapter if this doesn't work. This wouldn't allow the system to get the full 1900 ma, but it should get me upwards of 300 ma, which is where I am now.
2. I can add a wireless charger into the mix. From what I've read, if you charge with USB and wireless charging at the same time, the wireless charging would take priority. This would give me the same results as option #1.
3. I can try using the samsung S4 Multimedia dock. It appears that the dock doesn't have the same voltage output limitations as the MHL adapter. It does cost $100.00, though, and it's rather bulky.
These are all really great ideas, but what really bothers me about all this is that it shouldn't be necessary. If Samsung/AT&T hadn't installed a bootloader kernel checksum, none of this would matter. I could simply put a custom kernel in and call it a day with my current hardware. Hopefully someone will crack the bootloader soon. That would really be the best option instead of being locked into 4.2.2.
Thanks again!
Matt
s4 active charging
mattb22 said:
Vaiski,
Thanks again!
Matt
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I don't know whether or not you found a solution to your problem yet. I discovered same problem using stock charging cable and having Bluetooth, Wi-Fi amd GPS turned on, playing music through usb to a pioneer stereo.... no Bluetooth on stereo, but was using a BT hands-free device. Anyway, same problem as you, charger wouldn't keep up. Tried turning off Wi-Fi... had mobile hotspot turned on for wife's tablet, helped some but still drained faster than charged. A couple months ago, I couldn't find the factory charging/data cable and phone needed charging, so I tried a cable from one of those battery powered phone chargers, thing is only about a foot long, but phone said "charging" it went from about 30% to full in less than an hour, this phone has never charged that fast. I've experimented with it a bit, and it won't work as a data cable but it will keep up with everything turned on. I don't know if it's the length of the cable, or if the pins on the cable are different, in any case, try different cables, if you only need charge while your driving then the lack of data won't be a problem, though I liked being able to charge and listen to music at the same time, I'd rather know that my phone won't be dead when I get to the other end of a long road trip.... besides I figured out that a flash drive plugged into stereo plays music better.
Hope this helps
what is the best way to test a usb power adapter or a micro usb cable? cause in the past i have had problems where the usb power adapter would say a phone is charging but it really wasn't and once i changed it it was all good, also vice versa with the cable, i know this is a good example to know which one has the problem but i would like to know instantly and not a couple days later is there any way?
For the power adapter just check the energetic plate. You'll see input and output there. As long as the power adapter is [email protected] or [email protected],5A you're good. I actually use [email protected] for faster charging. You shouldn't go above 2,1a or 2100mah or you'll kill your battery. Slowly it will just get worse and worse battery life. Z1 should limit the current, but I would keep it between 1,5-2,1A anyway.
I had been charging my Z1 with a lots of cables and every one of them was good. Just make sure it's not too long like 5m. (electrical resistance matters)
There's also a module in the stock rom that limits the charging current if your device is running hot. The Z1 can also use more power than it is being charged with. I had this when I was watching a movie with a terrible reception. I dealt with it by turning on the flight mode.