Related
I can't seem to find a program which will route ALL audio to my mono bt earpiece. If there is such an app pls pst. If not, I'd like to help in the dev of such an app. Basicly, whenever the phone sees any audio bt device it will start routing all audio to that device. And it should have a built in audio mixer to control the different programs' volume levels separately.
Let me know what you think
Thanks.
Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G using the XDA mobile application powered by Tapatalk
bumping in hopes for some help on the subject
Agreed, I ride a motorcycle, and music without the chords would be nice.
------------------------------------
Sent via the XDA Tapatalk App
shameless bump or remove this thread
Check if any of those listed apps works for you
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=547604
Bumpity...bump
As a bike commuter this feature would be great. I typically listen to streams and podcasts where fidelity is not priority one. I use a cheap pair of corded headphones where I chop one ear bud off so that I can keep my left ear, traffic side, open. It would be sweet to have the ability to make/take calls on my commute and listen to audio as well. I know that there are BT earpieces that are a2dp, but should I really have to drop another 40 clams to get one, hells no this is android we get what we want right? That said I would develop a prog to do this but it will take me 6 mos as I have no background. So, to kind devs, myself and several others that I have seen scouring for this sol'n would gladly help test and pay for this functionality.
I have been looking also. Have not found anything to even mention. I used to have it on my old MinMo phone, but that's the ONLY damn thing I miss about it. Anyone have a recomendation.
theres a bunch of cheap A2DP headsets at dealextreme.com just do a search for a2dp
But I do mean cheap dont expect miracles for sound quality or battery life . . . but did I mention cheap?
We're not trying to solve our problems by purchasing MORE hardware, we're trying to make do with what we have and find new uses for old stuff. We want to send ALL the audio from the device to a mono NON a2dp earpiece. It can't honestly be that hard, Please devs. And don't forget your donate buttons.
Sound Route Switcher
http://www.androlib.com/android.application.com-omercade-headsetprojectii-jmiw.aspx
shadow_empire1 said:
Sound Route Switcher
http://www.androlib.com/android.application.com-omercade-headsetprojectii-jmiw.aspx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is not working for me, and I have 3.0. Doubt that 4.0 is working on the G1.
Hello!
Sorry to up this "old" topic, but I'm a biker too and i have a scala rider Q2 bluetooth device. This device does not support the bluetooth A2AP x-(
The phone calls trough bluetooth is ok but no music or GPS....
I found a solution : Bluetooth Audio Widget (i could not post the link but you can find it on the android market)
This Widget/application route all the sounds from your device to the bluethoot headphones!
@++
I have been using "Super BT Mono Pro" on my T-Mobile G2. It is working better than a few of the other apps that I have tried. It is also available on the Market.
http://www.androidzoom.com/android_developer/sinwidget_itzo.html
How do you like that Q2? Does it work well on FM, or is its radio coverage spotty like the other units? I still think they have awesome audio when you are talking to someone. I gave up the Scala Rider FM for a Parrot SK4000.
Hey guys I am a newbie to app development and I have gotten as far as doing the tip calculator. I am trying to make an intervalometer app based on the ti- calculator app at the link below. Basically, it would use the headphone jack to trigger a camera remote shutter release at a predictable rate for time lapse photography on a Canon DSLR. Here is the TI-83 reference. Any idea how to do this on android. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
http://potatoeskillme.com/code/ti-86-intervalometer-for-canon-xti/
Dude, I'm really sorry I'm not skilled enough (yet) to help make this happen.
What a fantastic idea! I would love to see this happen.
Anyone have an idea how to access the audio port in code? I have to close the loop on the headphone jack for an instant and then release it.
You are attacking the wrong hole.
Audio jacks don't behave in the same way as the TI data jack.
Investigate using USB.
I would love to see some sort of wireless control of the camera's basic functions, similar to the hardware wireless control modules for those cameras.
Perhaps easier to accomplish and just as nice would be a way to make the camera a wi-fi storage device for those level Canon cameras. It would be sweet to snap shots to the phone for easy posting to the various places Android supports.
My guess would be that Dalvik (SDK level Code) doesn't have access to hardware level controls.
So this would have to have some Native (NDK Code) in c++ written to make it work. I don't think it would be entirely difficult for someone, but I personally have never tried to use an audio jack for anything other than..well...audio.
Kcarpenter said:
My guess would be that Dalvik (SDK level Code) doesn't have access to hardware level controls.
So this would have to have some Native (NDK Code) in c++ written to make it work. I don't think it would be entirely difficult for someone, but I personally have never tried to use an audio jack for anything other than..well...audio.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that was kinda what I was afraid of. I have really bitten off more than I can chew with this project.
How I understand the wired remote works is that it just "shorts" the connection.
Now you may be able to simulate that by sending tones through the left/right and/or both poles. (one focuses the other shoots)
You could probably test if this would work by playing music through the cable and see if the camera reacts. I don't have a 1/8th to 1/16th cable or else I would try it myself because I am interested if it would work.
Here is a link of how to make a remote switch which you might find handy if you pursue this.
http://martybugs.net/photography/remote.cgi
Someone mentioned using the usb which would open a whole new world of what you can do. If you have ever played around with the canon software then you know you can control all the camera features from a computer and that should be possible to do on our phones but it would be a lot of work to write an app like that.
centran said:
How I understand the wired remote works is that it just "shorts" the connection.
Now you may be able to simulate that by sending tones through the left/right and/or both poles. (one focuses the other shoots)
You could probably test if this would work by playing music through the cable and see if the camera reacts. I don't have a 1/8th to 1/16th cable or else I would try it myself because I am interested if it would work.
Here is a link of how to make a remote switch which you might find handy if you pursue this.
http://martybugs.net/photography/remote.cgi
Someone mentioned using the usb which would open a whole new world of what you can do. If you have ever played around with the canon software then you know you can control all the camera features from a computer and that should be possible to do on our phones but it would be a lot of work to write an app like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB is the way to go. I've written a few apps for windows that control canon cameras using the canon sdk. Unfortunately, the SDK is all C++, so a wrapper is needed to work with java. Plus there are functions that are windows specific. The other option for Linux is libgphoto2. Unfortunately, documentation is not the greatest (nor is it for csdk).
If I had more time, I would have coded this already. But all my coding time is spent programming for work.
centran said:
How I understand the wired remote works is that it just "shorts" the connection.
Now you may be able to simulate that by sending tones through the left/right and/or both poles. (one focuses the other shoots)
You could probably test if this would work by playing music through the cable and see if the camera reacts. I don't have a 1/8th to 1/16th cable or else I would try it myself because I am interested if it would work.
Here is a link of how to make a remote switch which you might find handy if you pursue this.
http://martybugs.net/photography/remote.cgi
Someone mentioned using the usb which would open a whole new world of what you can do. If you have ever played around with the canon software then you know you can control all the camera features from a computer and that should be possible to do on our phones but it would be a lot of work to write an app like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am going to test your audio idea and see if it shorts the connection. Yeah, I wish I even knew where to begin with working on the USB. I am very new to this. The farthest I have gotten is building a potential layout for the program.
I just looked up some stuff.
I think the canon remote needs a little over 3volts to trigger the shutter. You are not going to be able to get anywhere close to that with the audio output.
I think the only option is to go through the usb.
centran said:
I just looked up some stuff.
I think the canon remote needs a little over 3volts to trigger the shutter. You are not going to be able to get anywhere close to that with the audio output.
I think the only option is to go through the usb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the info. I am downloading the Canon SDK right now(not that I have any idea what to do with it at this point).
is this still going? we are about to make the gsm hero usb-host-mode-able, then all that is missing is libgphoto2 and gphoto2... anyone fancy porting it?
First of all, sorry for my English.
I was searching in Google for something like this and I can't find nothing.
Using the usb is not simple, but the audio option is not crazy at all.
Obviously, that option will require some kind of interface, but can be much simple than the USB option.
You can generate different audio frequencies, for example, 1 KHz for focus and 5 KHz for shutter. With a filter for each frequency you can separate the signal in two circuits. Each circuit can trigger the camera with a transistor, in open collector configuration.
Whatever, if you choose one or another (USB or audio) you will must make some kind of electronic interface.
If someone can works with the software, I can do my part with the circuit. I'm sure that will be easy to build for anyone, even if you don't know electronics.
I am also looking into doing this sort of app, but I am starting with a Pentax k110d... Some camera's only require you to short out the wires, and doing so with the audio headphone jack seems to be possible, from the quick little test I just did with a media player, a 3.5mm jack extension cord, and a multimeter. When the track was playing, i got some resistance across the poles, but when I stopped it, I got nothing registering.
I had actually just given up on the headphone jack, and was looking into doing it over USB as well. I might just have to do several code paths, depending on what kind of camera the person is hooking up /ponder
Alrighty, I just did some more testing with a quick framework app that I had been working on for this. There is apparently a constant 1.7 mV on the headphone jack, which is enough to trigger the shutter release on my camera... boo urns... and when the tone is played, the voltage actually drops, because as all learned ppl know(at least those who paid some attention in physics) is that according to Ohms law, Resistance goes up, Voltage goes down.
Any progress on this?
I would love an intervalometer on Android for my Canon EOS 550D
+1 for the development of such app & hardware it may need.
i hate to bust your bubble but this died over a year ago
ya, development has kinda stalled out... I realized that it is not possible to do over the headphone jack, as there is always voltage there, and I don't know if it is possible just over usb...
The only way I can think that this would be possible would be to get ahold of a google hardware kit/arduino dev kit, and then program that.
Hi everyone, i've a rock band, and we would record us when playing . The problem is that the mic saturates because of the volume. Is it possible to decrease the mic gain (sensibility)?
Sorry for the bad English, and thanks for your help
not a real solution..
but u can try this trick..!
use tissue or spounge..cover your phone..and try..if still too loud..u can put some more tissue or spounge..
hope this help
And don't put in near the speaker
Better idea ... get some REAL recording equipment (microphone, mixer and recoding device) instead of recording your "demo tapes" on a cheapo phone ...
I'm not a musician, but even I possess a studio-grade mic plus mixer plus hard drive audio recorder.
Thanks for your answers, it was just for avoid to rent a handy recorder each time
Well, if you _need_ to record by using some cheap solution ...
I've never tried, but how about using a BlueTooth connected Mic (though you're most likely back to the very same problem that you can't control/balance the input volume)?
Or ... use a laptop with a external USB sound card (there are some good ones out there), a good microphone and some recording software (there are several free ones out there to be found - or consider using "Ubuntu Studio")?
I think that's the best shot if you want to keep it "cheap".
EDIT: If using a Laptop (or Netbook) would be a option to you:
- You may ditch the "USB sound card" and instead use a really good USB microphone instead.
- On another idea ... if a USB/Internal sound card (wouldn't really recommend using the rather lousy on-board audio codecs of Laptops/Netbooks/Motherboards) is a way to go ... use the line-out of your Amps to connect to the sound card for recording.
The advantage is that you can record in WAV/FLAC format and edit your recordings without losing quality as you only need to convert to MP3 once your post-edits are done.
I remember seing a zoom recorder it's pretty good most bands use it n it's cheap it costs like 20$
rock on dude \m/
Sent from my X8 using xda premium
TL;DR Auxillary and bluetooth have much lesser quality than USB. Video links below show stereo head units that support Android USB audio with app control for the best quality connection (Spotify, Pandora, Google Play Music via USB in your car!) These are single DIN head units without AA.
For audiophiles such as myself, auxiliary cables or Bluetooth is unacceptable when connecting to my car audio system. With these methods, the phone acts as the digital to audio converter instead of the head unit thus greatly reducing sound quality on a high end system. With a USB connection, the phone only acts as storage and a music player while the head unit acts as the DCA.
Finding head units that have a compatible USB connection to android devices has been very difficult in the past. I resorted to storing all my music on an old iPod touch to get Spotify working with my car through USB. The new Android Open Accessory 2.0 is changing that.
I have found a few of youtube videos demonstrating Android USB plug and play connection with two different modes:
App control: Spotify, Pandora, iHeartRadio, Google Play Music ect. (Yes SPOTIFY!!!)
MTP: browse local music files.
- supports basic functions such as play/pause/next/prev
- should work with android version 4.1+
- beware: some head unit models require a software update which can be installed through usb.
- warning: these videos only show connection to nexus phones, meaning if your phone isn't running google edition AOSP, it could cause problems.
- note: AOA 2.0 is different than the android audio update with lollipop, which was meant to allow connection to a separate external DCA via USB OTG.
- more info about the 3 types of android USB connection found in this thread: http://forums.androidcentral.com/an...3-will-android-l-allow-usb-audio-out-car.html
Videos with demonstration:
Pioneer DEH-X2800UI
https://youtu.be/gssbmXJ2pzw
Pioneer DEH-X3800UI
https://youtu.be/dztgOvrUnSE
Pioneer DEH-X5800HD
https://youtu.be/kReFemy4UmU
JVC KW-R910BT
https://youtu.be/h1n6WVefhKc
There are undoubtedly many other head units that support AOA 2.0, but these have video proof!
I have a Nexus 5x, I just ordered the Pioneer DEH-X3800UI for $75 on Amazon.
Ill have the head unit installed within the next week, and will give an update.
Hello Android USB Audio! Goodbye and good riddance iPod touch!
I'm hoping somebody has bought one of these headunits & can confirm how well it works.
Does it essentially work like a USB DAC would & all audio including waze, Poweramp youtube all play through the headunit and speakers?
edit: I found the answer, yes ALL audio goes through the headunit. See here:
go to 5:15
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyOh32a-cY8
TL;DR probably All head units with AOA 2.0 support that on the market right now have a clicking/micro pausing problem.
Sorry for a late response, I had to do some research, as explained below.
Now its time for the good, the bad, and the ugly!
The Good: The head unit preformed as promised, it was simple plug and play to rout all audio from the phone to the car speakers, matching Ipod via USB quality. Spotify, Youtube, Soundcloud, and even Maps navigation all worked.
The Bad: Every 5-30 seconds there is a quick high pitch clicking sound accompanied by a micro pause of the audio of about a quarter of a second. This clicking only happens with a constant audio stream such as a song, not with something brief such as a Maps navigation direction, nor when the phone is plugged in without any audio being streamed. Sometimes I would get lucky and the audio would be perfect for a couple minutes, once even for a couple songs. But when it does happen, the clicking is quite loud and high pitch and with micro pause it is easily noticeable during a normal song. I had 3 friends come listen to my "new setup" to ask them how it sounds, and all 3 of them noticed it. Unacceptable for an audiophile such as myself, so i did some research and conducted some experiments.
The Ugly: I devised a way to easily notice and keep track of the clicks. I played a low constant tone of a 40hz sine wave at high volume which made the abrupt high pitch clicks very loud (and annoying) in contrast to the low constant tone, and it made the micro pauses very obvious due to the interruption of the bass. With my phone I would hear random clicks every 5-30 seconds. I then tested 5 different android phones with various ROMs and about 10 different usb cords and many combinations of them. Clicking was reliably random. I changed kernel settings on some of the phones to see if the cpu performance was effecting it. I tried various apps such as sound about and the pioneer music app. Nothing changed.
I then went to an electronics store that had 8 head units available in store that supported Android Open Accessory 2.0. all hooked up for listening and ready for testing. There were 3 Pioneers, 2 JVC's, and 3 Kenwoods. ALL of them had the clicking problem. The Pioneers were the worst: the most frequent and loud clicks, followed closely behind by the JVC's. The Kenwoods, had clicks every 30 seconds to 2 minutes, and were about 40% less loud. I suspect that with the Kenwood head unit the average person might not be able to detect the clicking and micro pauses during a normal song, but I know i could in my high end system, especially after all this nonsense i would be passively listening for it.
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
ibCurlyFry said:
TL;DR probably All head units with AOA 2.0 support that on the market right now have a clicking/micro pausing problem.
Sorry for a late response, I had to do some research, as explained below.
Now its time for the good, the bad, and the ugly!
The Good: The head unit preformed as promised, it was simple plug and play to rout all audio from the phone to the car speakers, matching Ipod via USB quality. Spotify, Youtube, Soundcloud, and even Maps navigation all worked.
The Bad: Every 5-30 seconds there is a quick high pitch clicking sound accompanied by a micro pause of the audio of about a quarter of a second. This clicking only happens with a constant audio stream such as a song, not with something brief such as a Maps navigation direction, nor when the phone is plugged in without any audio being streamed. Sometimes I would get lucky and the audio would be perfect for a couple minutes, once even for a couple songs. But when it does happen, the clicking is quite loud and high pitch and with micro pause it is easily noticeable during a normal song. I had 3 friends come listen to my "new setup" to ask them how it sounds, and all 3 of them noticed it. Unacceptable for an audiophile such as myself, so i did some research and conducted some experiments.
The Ugly: I devised a way to easily notice and keep track of the clicks. I played a low constant tone of a 40hz sine wave at high volume which made the abrupt high pitch clicks very loud (and annoying) in contrast to the low constant tone, and it made the micro pauses very obvious due to the interruption of the bass. With my phone I would hear random clicks every 5-30 seconds. I then tested 5 different android phones with various ROMs and about 10 different usb cords and many combinations of them. Clicking was reliably random. I changed kernel settings on some of the phones to see if the cpu performance was effecting it. I tried various apps such as sound about and the pioneer music app. Nothing changed.
I then went to an electronics store that had 8 head units available in store that supported Android Open Accessory 2.0. all hooked up for listening and ready for testing. There were 3 Pioneers, 2 JVC's, and 3 Kenwoods. ALL of them had the clicking problem. The Pioneers were the worst: the most frequent and loud clicks, followed closely behind by the JVC's. The Kenwoods, had clicks every 30 seconds to 2 minutes, and were about 40% less loud. I suspect that with the Kenwood head unit the average person might not be able to detect the clicking and micro pauses during a normal song, but I know i could in my high end system, especially after all this nonsense i would be passively listening for it.
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok wow, I'll try to get to a shop soon& test my tablet.
I'm really hoping I can use an OTG cable + hub & then go into one of these headunits. I need the hub in my car for rear camera & SSD media drive.
s2g-unit said:
ok wow, I'll try to get to a shop soon& test my tablet.
I'm really hoping I can use an OTG cable + hub & then go into one of these headunits. I need the hub in my car for rear camera & SSD media drive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah OTG >> USB DAC is what im going to have to do too, unless i find a fix for the clicks.
This post could help: http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/5430#post_10929191
ibCurlyFry said:
Yeah OTG >> USB DAC is what im going to have to do too, unless i find a fix for the clicks.
This post could help: http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/5430#post_10929191
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do actually have a Hifimediy u2 USB DAC.
I'm hoping to go from nexus 7>otg>hub>straight into the AOA 2.0 receiver.
If not my backup will be the USB DAC into a Pioneer 80prs.
Anybody have input?
What would be better in terms of sound quality?
-The aoa 2.0 allows me USB streaming digital into HU
vs
-USB DAC (by passing internal DAC) into Pioneer 80PRS (Amazing Sound quality HU for 250$) but this will have to be done via AUX.
Does the fact I have to use AUX even matter? will it degrade the quality?
s2g-unit said:
I do actually have a Hifimediy u2 USB DAC.
I'm hoping to go from nexus 7>otg>hub>straight into the AOA 2.0 receiver.
If not my backup will be the USB DAC into a Pioneer 80prs.
Anybody have input?
What would be better in terms of sound quality?
-The aoa 2.0 allows me USB streaming digital into HU
vs
-USB DAC (by passing internal DAC) into Pioneer 80PRS (Amazing Sound quality HU for 250$) but this will have to be done via AUX.
Does the fact I have to use AUX even matter? will it degrade the quality?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know using straight AUX from the device tremendously reduces sound quality due to the device acting as a crappy DAC, then sending the audio signal through the AUX to the unit.
But if it goes to a separate DAC then through AUX, i dont know. I would like to find out also
ibCurlyFry said:
I know using straight AUX from the device tremendously reduces sound quality due to the device acting as a crappy DAC, then sending the audio signal through the AUX to the unit.
But if it goes to a separate DAC then through AUX, i dont know. I would like to find out also
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've posted on a few car audio boards. Nobody seems to ask this in the past becasue everybody in the past used ipod via usb. Bluetooth if they dont care about quality.
I think in most cases like you said, the response was negative to using AUX but thats because of the headphone jack / internal DAC as you know.
I'm just curious like you to know how much we would loose by using AUX. Maybe some will say it's because of another D/A conversion but can anybody really tell? I'll wait for some answers.
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Soul0Reaper said:
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't get why you think he needs an Android Auto Setup?
Double DIN radio are more for toys. They don't have the EQ or processing power of single DIN's.
s2g-unit said:
I don't get why you think he needs an Android Auto Setup?
Double DIN radio are more for toys. They don't have the EQ or processing power of single DIN's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh... I never said that he "needed" AA. I am certainly not an expert on head units and am not a claimed audiophile but based on what the requirements were, I don't see a reason why AA can't work. It is simpler to setup, includes spotify support, as well as a more cohesive and unified interface. Based on the issues getting audio over USB to work I think AA is a good alternative.
I'm not sure how DDs have less processing power but if you need such a thing, just add a DSP. I personally am fine with just an amp. Seems very extreme to claim them as toys. I wouldn't be so prejudiced...
Soul0Reaper said:
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Main reasons:
-Touch screens are difficult to operate while driving
-My car would need modifications to install a double din
-And of course the price. I do have a quite high end system, but It is extremely cost efficient.
I believe AA is a waste of money if all you care about is sound quality because the cheapest solution for usb quality app radio is still just a $70 head unit and a used ipod touch for $50.
This is what I had before I heard about these new head units that still cost $70 but allow usb connection to android with aoa so I could potentially get rid of the ipod and just use my phone, but it hasn't worked out so far lol.
ibCurlyFry said:
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AOA only supports 44.1 KHz sampling rate. Maybe a re-sampling issue.
To test I'd try 44.1 source material on a device that is native 44.1.
Note also that Google considers AOA deprecated and discourages it's further use. Very few people used it so Google may not bother fixing bugs, and it may not be a part of their Compatibility Test Suite..
mikereidis said:
AOA only supports 44.1 KHz sampling rate. Maybe a re-sampling issue.
To test I'd try 44.1 source material on a device that is native 44.1.
Note also that Google considers AOA deprecated and discourages it's further use. Very few people used it so Google may not bother fixing bugs, and it may not be a part of their Compatibility Test Suite..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, ill test the sampling rate theory
And its crazy that these head units that support aoa didnt come out until mid-late last year... The stereo companies need to get on track with google and take a break from suckling the teet of Apple
ibCurlyFry said:
Thanks for the info, ill test the sampling rate theory
And its crazy that these head units that support aoa didn't come out until mid-late last year... The stereo companies need to get on track with google and take a break from suckling the teet of Apple
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
None of the shops near me have any of these HU's setup. I'll wait a 1-2 weeks for other peoples developments. If its still the same , I'll just buy a Pioneer 80PRS.
s2g-unit said:
None of the shops near me have any of these HU's setup. I'll wait a 1-2 weeks for other peoples developments. If its still the same , I'll just buy a Pioneer 80PRS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Theres actually alot more than i thought, heres a more complete list:
JVC models: http://www.jvc.net/cs/car/firmware/2014/aoa/
Kenwood models: http://www.kenwood.com/cs/ce/aoa2/
Pioneer models: DEH X2800UI, X32800UI, X3800S, X4800BT, X5800HD, X6800BT, MVH X380BT
ibCurlyFry said:
Main reasons:
-Touch screens are difficult to operate while driving
-My car would need modifications to install a double din
-And of course the price. I do have a quite high end system, but It is extremely cost efficient.
I believe AA is a waste of money if all you care about is sound quality because the cheapest solution for usb quality app radio is still just a $70 head unit and a used ipod touch for $50.
This is what I had before I heard about these new head units that still cost $70 but allow usb connection to android with aoa so I could potentially get rid of the ipod and just use my phone, but it hasn't worked out so far lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed that is a good point. My unit basically cost the same as what I paid for my speakers and amp. I wish you luck on finding a solution!
With more research i concluded that in the following connection:
Device > USB OTG > DAC > AUX > Head Unit
The aux will not effect the sound quality, but this connection will only be on par with USB if the external DAC is capable of grater or equal sound quality of the Head Unit DAC, AND if the AUX cable is of good quality as well.
That being said, i also concluded that depending on the bit rate of the audio, and the quality of your hardware, bluetooth quality might be indistinguishable from USB, especially in the sound environment of a car. But you would have to test that yourself.
I will be going for the external DAC
ibCurlyFry said:
With more research i concluded that in the following connection:
Device > USB OTG > DAC > AUX > Head Unit
The aux will not effect the sound quality, but this connection will only be on par with USB if the external DAC is capable of grater or equal sound quality of the Head Unit DAC, AND if the AUX cable is of good quality as well.
That being said, i also concluded that depending on the bit rate of the audio, and the quality of your hardware, bluetooth quality might be indistinguishable from USB, especially in the sound environment of a car. But you would have to test that yourself.
I will be going for the external DAC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one more shop to check out this week hopefully. I want to test these AOA 2.0 headunits myself with otg cable + usb hub to see if I can still control the tabelt via headunit + test for the problems you had.
s2g-unit said:
I have one more shop to check out this week hopefully. I want to test these AOA 2.0 headunits myself with otg cable + usb hub to see if I can still control the tabelt via headunit + test for the problems you had.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sounds good
Just note the problems i had were occurring when i connected to a AOA 2.0 compatible head unit only via USB (USB A to micro USB).
Not with USB OTG or a USB hub. Idk if it works that way, but let me know
Which is your favorite color phone case?
After watching a few YouTube videos I now understand that the dual feature of the Note 8 Bluetooth has nothing to do with Bluetooth 5.
From what I've learned, Bluetooth 5 is simply a combination of Classic Bluetooth (2 & 3) coupled with Extended Bluetooth (high range with lesser throughput), which does NOT mean you can expect to crash n your speaker in the house from the garden.
In other words, for the DUAL Bluetooth feature on the Note 8, it would appear that there are in fact two separate BT reciever / transmitters.
Can anyone verify this?
Also, if this is true, how likely will it be that either a software update or an app will be able to take advantage of this, and split stereo channels to two separate Bluetooth speakers, thus giving true stereo sound in the home?
AddictedToGlass said:
Which is your favorite color phone case?
After watching a few YouTube videos I now understand that the dual feature of the Note 8 Bluetooth has nothing to do with Bluetooth 5.
From what I've learned, Bluetooth 5 is simply a combination of Classic Bluetooth (2 & 3) coupled with Extended Bluetooth (high range with lesser throughput), which does NOT mean you can expect to crash n your speaker in the house from the garden.
In other words, for the DUAL Bluetooth feature on the Note 8, it would appear that there are in fact two separate BT reciever / transmitters.
Can anyone verify this?
Also, if this is true, how likely will it be that either a software update or an app will be able to take advantage of this, and split stereo channels to two separate Bluetooth speakers, thus giving true stereo sound in the home?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why I dunno, ATG! That's a pretty good friggin' question about a thousand dollars phone to ask here, on what's arguably the largest collection of handset-technology educated folks on the Internet.
Ohmagosh, let's see what they say...!
AddictedToGlass said:
Why I dunno, ATG! That's a pretty good friggin' question about a thousand dollars phone to ask here, on what's arguably the largest collection of handset-technology educated folks on the Internet.
Ohmagosh, let's see what they say...!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why I don't know, maybe it does have two BT chips in it. I'm going to guess it does. The delay sucks though for sure.
Meh... I'll take any answer I can get at this point just get the discussion going. Can't believe this hasn't been a major discussion topic yet, and I can't find anything about what I'm asking on the web.
The delay can be remedied by changing placement of the phone between the devices. In other words, from what I've read / heard, no matter how different the two speakers are, there's a theoretical distance between each one that is the ideal placement for the phone where they'll be no lag between the two. I've done this in my own house. I relocated a small table in the foyer to get optimum placement between the dining room and living room speakers.
I have yet to try this with identical speakers to check if midway between them is ideal placement for the phone.
AddictedToGlass said:
Meh... I'll take any answer I can get at this point just get the discussion going. Can't believe this hasn't been a major discussion topic yet, and I can't find anything about what I'm asking on the web.
The delay can be remedied by changing placement of the phone between the devices. In other words, from what I've read / heard, no matter how different the two speakers are, there's a theoretical distance between each one that is the ideal placement for the phone where they'll be no lag between the two. I've done this in my own house. I relocated a small table in the foyer to get optimum placement between the dining room and living room speakers.
I have yet to try this with identical speakers to check if midway between them is ideal placement for the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My problem isn't the latency it's the dang volumes. Even with the setting. Can't think of it as I haven't tried in a while. But one of my speakers are as quiet as can be the other is blazing loud. I could never get them to even nearly match...
Surely it's only got one Bluetooth chip just allows more than 1 connection.
No different than having your speakers and a watch connected at the same time 2.
Just 2 audio streams at once
What hasn't Bluetooth allowed more than once bt device gonna had before as long as they used different profiles
I have several speakers, and also two of the same model by the same brand, and until now, I could never get then to play at the same time.
Maybe I should just bitter the bullet and buy a system that splits the stereo channel between two speakers after.
Dual Bluetooth feature means that you can connect with two Bluetooth audio devices at same time and music on the phone will be played simultaneously on the both devices. Left audio channel on the first connected, Right audio channel on second connected.
Switch "Dual audio" via 3dots Bluetooth menu.
Only first device can control (pause/play/next/previos) phone's player.
There is no need both devices to be same brand/model.
Bluetooth version of devices is also not important.
All version are backwards compatible with previous versions. So if your phone is v5, first speaker v4, second v2, so all communications will be on v2.
Even v1 Bluetooth support up to 8 devices multiple (serial) connections. One phone connected to 7 others and gaming multiplayer (Nokia N-gage) . But just now manufacturer deside to make two (audio channels) connection.
ChoSmile, I'm failing to understand...
Are you saying they are already separated into left and right audio channels??
dual Bluetooth has nothing to do with channel separation; all it does is allow 2 devices to be connected to your phone via Bluetooth at the same time, listening to the same exact audio stream
Jammol said:
Why I don't know, maybe it does have two BT chips in it. I'm going to guess it does. The delay sucks though for sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AddictedToGlass said:
Meh... I'll take any answer I can get at this point just get the discussion going. Can't believe this hasn't been a major discussion topic yet, and I can't find anything about what I'm asking on the web.
The delay can be remedied by changing placement of the phone between the devices. In other words, from what I've read / heard, no matter how different the two speakers are, there's a theoretical distance between each one that is the ideal placement for the phone where they'll be no lag between the two. I've done this in my own house. I relocated a small table in the foyer to get optimum placement between the dining room and living room speakers.
I have yet to try this with identical speakers to check if midway between them is ideal placement for the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I play music through poweramp to 2 phillips bt speakers that can connect together anyways. But it's a pain to connect them like that so I just connect them with the dual bt the phone uses. I know what your talking about with the delay so right away I figured out that after they are paired and music starts playing (delayed of course) I simply force close poweramp, go back in and hit play and..... No delay
I'm using 2x Sony Srs-XB10s which natively support stereo pairing themselves, and I dual audio to a Marley with a cheap iPod dock, bluetooth adapter.
There's a ~1s delay from the Sony's when they're in native-stereo mode.
There's ~0.3s delay when they're attached singularly over Bluetooth. This fluctuates, but usually grows to ~0.8s over 2 minutes, then resets.
It's upsetting the audio can't be delayed per-device manually.
I love the technology though and it excited me I could in theory have 5.1 with this solution (Marley is almost a 2.1) but alas it's not mature enough.
Keenly interested in the progress of this feature! Saves the manufacturer having to implement it, though Sony's, despite the bigger delay, is very very simple and obviously there's no delay between their own 2 speakers.