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hi, new member here.
bought my tilt on 10/4/07. has been flawless since that time.
used the nav quite a bit during a road trip, used a cig lighter usb charger.
got home and my battery was at roughly 40%.
put it on the charger at night went to sleep. in morning disconnected it at 8 am. shortly after i arrived at work i got the critical battery low chime. checked and it had like 7% battery life.
figured i didnt plug it in right, or it got knocked loose some how and didnt get charged.
put it in flight mode to minimize battery usage. left work at 2 30 pm (4% battery life) and put it on the car charger. got home and put it on the HTC supplied wall charger. light turned amber, so i assumed it was charging.
checked an hour later and turned phone on, it said 0%, and immediately died. left it on the charger for a few hours and the light was still amber, turned it back on and again 0% and phone immediately died and did a soft reset on its own. i turned the phone off and left it on the ac charger, took out the sim card and put it in an old blackberry to use while the battery was charging.
its been on the ac wall charger for the last several hours, i checked and the phone is totally dead, cannot turn it on, and the LED at the top is now RED.
what is the problem here? why wont this thing charge?
thanks in advance, i have alot of critical info on this device and any help would be greatly appreciated.
i cannot hard reset because i cannot turn the flippign thing on....
Does it charge when you connect it to your computer? If it does, then your charger is toast. If not, then it's probably the phone itself.
I'd try a different charger first. If that makes no difference then a different battery. If that still does not make any difference then time to exchange it.
Lidberg said:
Does it charge when you connect it to your computer? If it does, then your charger is toast. If not, then it's probably the phone itself.
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connected to either the computer or the wall charger, the LED thats normally amber when charging, and green when charged, remains red.
I had something very similar happen to my wizard.
And as weird as it sounds, the only fix was to charge the battery in a friends wizard on his charger. I'd check the battery if possible.
Could be the battery. Know any place or anyone that will let you try a charged battery? If not, you might have to go in to an AT&T store.
i think i got it working. did some reading/browsing...
took a usb wire and cut the mini usb head off. dissected it and found the the red and black charging wires. took out the battery and held the leads to teh battery while the other end was plugged into a USB/AC adapter wall charger from a old blackberry. after manually charging the battery for several minutes, i put the battery back in the phone and the phone started up. now it seems to be charging off the wall charger and the led is now amber from red.
thanks for all your help/suggestions.
well it worked briefly. the amber light has gone back to red and it seems that the battery is not charging.
dont know what happened to my perfectly functioning phone.
tiltyoself said:
well it worked briefly. the amber light has gone back to red and it seems that the battery is not charging.
dont know what happened to my perfectly functioning phone.
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Click to collapse
Repeat this proceedure but this time do not turn the phone on, just plug it in to the wall charger once you have zapped the battery again.
Turning your phone on probably just caused the already recovering battery to die whiles it is trying to take on a charge.
It is mentioned quite a lot on the boards that Li-Ion Batteries do not like being over disscharged and there is usually a little protection circuit in the battery to provent complete disscharging although this circuit may be on board the phone. Completely disscharging a Li-Ion cell will kill it stone dead and it will need replacing.
When you took the battery out and so called jump started it with your flying leads, this possibly reset the little protection circuit in the battery so it can now take on a charge. I feel that once you turned on the phone, this was to much for the already depleted cell to take and possibly re-tripped its inbuilt circuit.
If you do manage to recover you cell, in future it is good practice not to let the battery go below about 25%. Li-ion cells are generally happy being top off regularly.
I hope this helps buddy
Do let us know!
Cheers
C.
thanks, that was very helpful.
ive tried defibrillating this battery out of the dead several more times to no avail.
ill try it one more time when i get home from work, if its a no go i will go to teh att core store. the phone is 6 weeks old, dont know what they can do for me if the battery is toast...
That Sucks! I hope they'll give you a new battery.
tiltyoself said:
thanks, that was very helpful.
ive tried defibrillating this battery out of the dead several more times to no avail.
ill try it one more time when i get home from work, if its a no go i will go to teh att core store. the phone is 6 weeks old, dont know what they can do for me if the battery is toast...
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Click to collapse
I had exactly the same problem with my battery. It came on though after a day. Although the battery life after this happened went down to 10hrs max on standby. I sent the phone back and got a new one and now all is fine.
This is a problem that affects almost all makes of phone. There are three (main) causes of the problem:
1.
The battery charge drops too low to allow the charging circuit to recognise a battery is even in place (red no charge light stays lit)
possible solution:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...22&postcount=6
(in the end very similar in the end to the USB wire used in post above)
2.
A faulty battery (but if you can charge it using a cut usb cable or using a couple of AA batteries this may not be a faulty battery.
3.
A faulty charger OR a charger not delivering 5v at 1000mA as the OEM one does. Many chargers that are used for other phones or generic chargers only deliver 500mA. This is not enough when your battery drops very low. (these chargers are OK for occasional use but I do not advise using them regularly particularly if the no-charge syndrome has shown itself)
4.
A faulty USB connection on the phone. I have now seen a couple of reports where the fine wire connections in the phones USB port have become bent out of place.
Number 4 above is at least possible for the OP as it seems the battery will charge using a cut USB cable but not when either the PC USB cable or mains charger is connected. A USB port on the phone with a a bent internal contact would explain what's happening.
A previous poster was able with a needle or similar to bend the contact back into place.
Mike
i had the same problem with my phone.
put it in the charger overnight and woke up in the morning and couldnt turn on the phone with blinking red light. I don't know if my battery was over-drained though. I went to AT&T and was playing around with their charger and new battery and somehow the so-called dead battery started working again. They changed the SIM card on my phone there and then i haven't been able to use the phone since. I've changed the network to GSM instead of Auto setting under Phone Options which allows us to make calls; but now I can't connect to 3G network.
Charging thru mini usb
My phone started to exhibit similar problems...plugged in but no charging of the battery. I finally realized that my mini usb connection on the phone has been compromised (bent, distorted=not functioning properly) Now I have to prop the mini usb connection up at a slight angle to engage the charge. I think the plastic/metallic connector on the phone is somewhat fragile ...I had similar issues with my hermes.
called customer support.
they are sending me a new phone and battery.
how do i know its not a refurbished one? any clues?
before u send out your defect phone, have u check if your phone's mini-USB connector has bent or misaligned pins?
yeah all the connectors visually are fine.
I have this strange problem that just cropped up. After a full recharge the other day the battery showed normal draining. When I tried to recharge it wouldn't; neither from the wall charger or usb by computer. So the battery showed steady drain unless charging, but never got more charge. Finally when turning on the phone on battery alone it shows 1% charge, and there's nothing I can do about it, the phone will turn itself off.
Diagnostics: I measured the battery voltage and it is ~4.2 volts. This seems like a full battery yet the phone doesn't see it.
I measured the voltage at the battery terminals in the phone while hooked up to charger which was ~4.2 volts. So it seems the battery is being charged.
Why is the phone not seeing the battery charge? Is the battery dead even though it measures 4.2v?
I did run the gps before this happened using gps tool, bit I think I turned it all off. Anyway more than one soft reset didn't help.
Thanks,
Ed
ATT Tilt 8925 running gthing Blackwood rom with Vista BatteryHide. Original ATT radio.
No real answer here but perhaps something to try:
I am dealing with another member who has a similar problem.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=377675&page=2 From post 17 onward.
With battery in, the orange charge light comes on and all seems normal. However with a few seconds of turning on the message that the main battery is critcally low comes up and the phone turns off. He has tried another battery with the same result. This happens even with the charger connected.
(EDIT: I have now read that his has - for no obvious reason started to work ok - Now even more convinced it's a charging circuit lock-up issue - given time and possibly a bit of battery fiddling and it comes good in the end - see No 2 below)
Now I'm wondering whether this could be one of two things:
1.
A hardware fault - possibly in the charging circuit or more crudely one of the battery circuit board connectors is not connecting.
OR
2.
The circuit that controls charging has to put it crudely become "stuck" in a similar fashion to those who get the RLOD red LED showing when they connect the charger. A commonly accepted trick for overcoming the RLOD is to connect the charger and wriggle the battery on and off the four contact pins. This presumably has the effect of forcing the charging circuit to re-set itself. I just wonder whether it might have the same effect in your situation.
Mike
hey.. that would be me with the similar issue.
i just tried a couple more things.. check out the thread.
More info.
Battery in and out holding the power button had no effect. Phone runs fine while plugged in. Plug it in and after 5 seconds the amber LED turns to red. While plugged in the red led will flash amber every so often.
I measured the battery voltage as I turned the phone on, it dropped to ~ 3.98v, then came back to 4.1v as the phone turned itself off. It gets all the way to my Today screen before going off. Just sitting in the phone with it off is 4.1v. Hook up the charger and the battery sees 4.18 and rising after 20 seconds. These are direct measurements at the battery terminals while in the phone.
So this looks like a software issue to me. The phone is charging the battery and there is plenty of power to run the phone, the phone somehow doesn't see it that way. It sees a dead battery. Well, I guess it could be a voltage sensor gone bad , somewhere somehow. Next step is to hard reset and see if it makes any difference.
edit: While plugged in and the screen on, the led stays amber. When the screen goes off(set for 2 minutes) the led turns red. Screen back on, led amber. I just set the screen not to go off while plugged in(charging), we'll see. The power is showing 7% now and says charging, too early to tell if it's rising or not.
edit 2: It stayed on the charger for several hours and never moved past 7%. Tried a hard reset with no luck. Next step is to send it to a repair shop(I bought it used) and hopefully spend only the $95-$125 they quoted.
Will keep you apprised.
Ed
elknimrod said:
I have this strange problem that just cropped up. After a full recharge the other day the battery showed normal draining. When I tried to recharge it wouldn't; neither from the wall charger or usb by computer. So the battery showed steady drain unless charging, but never got more charge. Finally when turning on the phone on battery alone it shows 1% charge, and there's nothing I can do about it, the phone will turn itself off.
Diagnostics: I measured the battery voltage and it is ~4.2 volts. This seems like a full battery yet the phone doesn't see it.
I measured the voltage at the battery terminals in the phone while hooked up to charger which was ~4.2 volts. So it seems the battery is being charged.
Why is the phone not seeing the battery charge? Is the battery dead even though it measures 4.2v?
I did run the gps before this happened using gps tool, bit I think I turned it all off. Anyway more than one soft reset didn't help.
Thanks,
Ed
ATT Tilt 8925 running gthing Blackwood rom with Vista BatteryHide. Original ATT radio.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Att Tilt Power/Battery Issues.
I am having somewhat similar issues with my Tilt, with the power/battery problems as described previously. I woke up this morning, and attempted to turn my phone on, and it wouldnt come on at all. I then plugged it into the ac adapter, and the LED comes on, and goes green. I waited a few moments, then powered the phone on to take a look at the battery life, and the phone boots up, then reboots during the splash screen. After it reboots itself, I check the battery indicator and it shows 1%. If I exit the battery screen, and re-enter it, it will say 100%. Now, as soon as I remove the charger from the system, it automatically powers down. I played with it for about 15 minutes, but needed to head to work, so I took the phone with me, and attempted to use my car charger. Same problem. Now, I figured, fine, I'll see how it behaves while I am at work, so I brought my charger to work, and have it plugged in at my desk, and if I leave it plugged in and on, it stays on for about 5 minutes, then automatically reboots. LED stays green, but phone will not stay on, if unplugged, or plugged in for longer than 5 minutes. I have never dropped it, and have babied the phone like no other, concidering I paid $400 for it. I'm a little bummed out, but cant determine if its a battery or hardware problem. Any advice/input for me from any of you guys? before I head to the ATT store, and cry for a new phone? Thanks a bunch for any responses to this.
*UPDATE* After I got off work, I went into my local ATT store, explained the situation, and was given a brand new replacement phone in like 10 minutes. I was under 30 days owning it, so he just swapped it out, barley any questions asked. (altho i explained my situation in detail as it was). So.... hopefully it doesnt happen again, or else I'll have to use the warranty. Anyways, Any insight on what may cause this would always be helpful for both myself and the community. =)
new news
EDIT: They got it Monday and I got it back Friday. Good turnaround! They fixed the problem, it works perfectly now. I recommend these people.
Ed
Sent it off to Cell Phone Repair(CPR) in Chicago that gave me an estimate of $95 (inc. ship. back) based on my description. They just called and told me it was corrosion around and in the power/usb port. They got it yesterday and will send it back repaired tomorrow with a 90 day warranty. No more saunas for this phone(it was only one! )
I'll let you know if they work out well or not.
Ed
elknimrod said:
I have this strange problem that just cropped up. After a full recharge the other day the battery showed normal draining. When I tried to recharge it wouldn't; neither from the wall charger or usb by computer. So the battery showed steady drain unless charging, but never got more charge. Finally when turning on the phone on battery alone it shows 1% charge, and there's nothing I can do about it, the phone will turn itself off.
Diagnostics: I measured the battery voltage and it is ~4.2 volts. This seems like a full battery yet the phone doesn't see it.
I measured the voltage at the battery terminals in the phone while hooked up to charger which was ~4.2 volts. So it seems the battery is being charged.
Why is the phone not seeing the battery charge? Is the battery dead even though it measures 4.2v?
I did run the gps before this happened using gps tool, bit I think I turned it all off. Anyway more than one soft reset didn't help.
Thanks,
Ed
ATT Tilt 8925 running gthing Blackwood rom with Vista BatteryHide. Original ATT radio.
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Click to collapse
Hi,
My 2 week old Nexus 7 shut off while charging - I didn't even notice! - and it won't turn back on, whether I connect it to AC power using its charger and cable or whether I connect it to my computer.
I tried holding down the power button and the power button + volume buttons, didn't work. What can I do?
I tried the volume down + power trick again and it worked. Weird. Is this a known problem? Running Android 4.2.2 here.
tehpea said:
Weird. Is this a known problem? Running Android 4.2.2 here.
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Click to collapse
There are a variety of different problems revolving around battery issues. What percent of N7 owners experience them is unknown, but a variety of different syndromes have been reported in these forums:
a) tablet mysteriously won't start (& battery is believed to be charged)
b) tablet shuts down spontaneously (battery charge < 40%, but > warning level ~ 14-16%)
c) % charge reading doesn't change / won't go to 100% on charger
d) attempt to start tablet results in "static screen" / "sparkling screen"
e) charge rate is extremely slow
Every time (d) is reported, it seems to be a case of a discharged battery, and afaik always resolves by putting the tab on the charger for a while.
All the other syndromes don't uniformly resolve with a single fix, but a lot of folks have reported finding (when they pop the back cover off) that the battery terminal plug was loose, or that unplugging their battery for a few minutes resolved their problems.
There are two chips in the N7 that relate to battery issues. One is the TI "fuel gauge" chip. It does nothing but observe the battery voltage and current, and use that to produce a "% charge" value. This is exactly the value reported by the OS. (It literally is read straight from hardware, there is no "battery calibration" software in the OS involved). This chip is directly connected across the battery terminals, and is essentially on 100% of the time - even when the tablet is turned off. The only way to "reset" it is to unplug the battery from the tablet for a little while.
The second is a chip made by SMB that understands USB device detection protocols, and it determines the battery charging current - both when the tablet is on and also when it is turned "off".
Both of those chips appear to be "stateful", and also have modes that are supposed to deal with dead batteries (not just low voltage, but seriously low voltage).
My suspicion is that some of the above problems are caused by a loose/intermittent battery connector plugs. A voltage drop-out of a few microseconds might not cause the tablet to crash (current is drawn from power-supply capacitors during the dropout), but can seriously screw up the statefulness of either the charging chip or the fuel gauge chip (the voltage droops a little, but the sense current goes nuts.)
So anyway, keep an eye on it and have a look at the numerous "battery problem" threads on here. If you continue to have problems, maybe pop off the back and see if you have a loose connector. Other than that - send the tablet back under a RMA.
Consider checking this sticky.
You'll probably find your answer.
-bk
Just exchange it!
Unless its been fine since. Cause occasionally, poop happens.
Sent from my cell phone telephone....
So... like most of you, i have at least one problem with my teclast x98 air tablet, version C9J8, running only windows (8.1 pro/10 preview).
At this time i've constantly encountered the following problems:
- not turning on after being shut down. Pressing the power button doesn't do nothing. Sometimes it does this while charging, at the end of the charge, othertimes it... simply won't power on.
- huge battery drain in stand by. I've flashed ALL (yes... all) dual boot/single boot air/air 2 BIOS files i could get, in all versions. If it's got a .bin extension... yes, i've flashed that too. No change AT ALL!
- huge batterty drain... when powered off !?!?! Yes, that's the next level of awsomeness. You know your tablet is special when it sometimes discharges faster when turned off compared with it turned on. (@XDA, guys .. can you please add some facepalm smiley/emoji.. i wanted to use it about 30 times since i got this tablet)
- sudden shutdowns. Like when you use your tablet it simply dies in your hands with no apparent reason.
- battery meter stuck at 7% and only 1 cell reported. NOT fixed by the methods already known (flashing BIOS and letting it discharge then recharge with tablet turned off).
So.. i'm pissed off. I've disassembled the damn thing in search for some answers. I'll by posting some photos with the guts of this thing (c9j8 version).
First of all, I wanted to check the power draw directly from the battery, so i've desoldered the positive wire from the battery and inserted an amps meter to check the current flow.
For example, the stock charger will supply around 1.5-1.9 amps to the battery when charging (tablet off). For comparison a small 5V 1A, samsung charger supplied 1.1 amps in the same setup. Some other interesting facts, when on and booted to windows - the tablet draws about 1.1-2.2 amps (mostly depending on screen brigtness and cpu load). That's a total of 4-11 watts. If you lower the brigtness from full to low (bottom third of the slider) you effectively half the power consumption. As usual the display consumes more then 50% of the total power being drawn. Those who complain about huge power drain on standby will be surprised to know that the tablet draws 0.3-0.8 amps (it fluctuates) in standby. That’s HUGE. It should be 0.03-0.05 amps at MAXIMUM. 0.3 amps multiplied to a 3.8volts cell is 1.14Watts draw per hour at minimum in my case.
Leaving that aside, let's return to the above problems. The battery is connected to the motherboard by using a 3 wire connection (positive, ground and data bus/i2c or similar). The motherboard itself doesn't feature ANY protection/power management chip aside from a single ROHM controller located under a metal shield. Even if some data is passed between the battery and motherboard, you can simply decouple the battery and power the tablet with regular 18650 lithium cells or 3 AA alkaline batteries in series. The tablet is stupid enough not to notice any difference.
Let's go more deep in the start-up sequence.
When you press the power button, a half a second 500mA ramping to 800mA load is registered. The power management chip measures the voltage drop under that load and if it deems it to be "acceptable" it passes power to the rest of the motherboard. BIOS/firmware takes over from there but does a measurement of its own. If it results in an "ok" the boot sequence can the follow. If not, the BIOS would then power off the tablet. Here lies the first problem. The power management chip and BIOS thresholds for a "low voltage" battery are different. Very different. The chip itself considers the battery voltage to be ok if it's above about 3.45-3.5 volts and not dropping lower then 3.3v under a 500-800mA load. The BIOS/firmware (or whatever software part does this) won't accept a measurement below 3.65v. volts. So, when you pass the BIOS stage and boot to windows, the data you get when checking your battery comes from the power management chip. If you fully discharge the battery in windows (down to 2-3% or similar) and you are able to shutdown the tablet by yourself (it doesn’t cut power by itself) you could find that it cannot power back again because even if the power management ic gives the go ahead, the bios/firmware side refuses to go any further. The battery must be charged for some time before the bios will allow for booting.
The problem is that both power management IC and BIOS readings should be taken in same way and be of similar value. They are not. It’s not that Teclast couldn’t do this, but for whatever reason they decided to write the BIOS in that way. The 7% problem could originate in the fact that a what the BIOS considers a dead battery (0%) is actually charged to a degree and is different from 0% measured at the power management chip level. Overall the power readings are inconsistent in both measurement and reporting. It doesn’t seem to be a hardware problem.
Another problem is how „dumb” is the battery management hardware. In any modern portable computer (laptops, tablets, even phones – excluding some chinese products) you cannot simply disconect the data bus from the battery and simply feed some random 3-4 volts to power the thing. It’s like you would remove the battery from your laptop, check the label on it for the voltage rating and stick a bunch of wires on the contacts (2 of them) and expect the thing to boot. It won’t. Firstly because IT’S NOT SAFE. The battery or motherboard can’t report one to another if a fault is occuring and can’t accurately measure voltage/current consumption.
Yet another problem is that the same power circuitry does not compensate for large voltage/current swings. A simple experiment for you folks to try. Get a aa battery (a battery in general) measure it’s voltage as it’s sitting still then connect a small lightbulb/motor/led/whatever load runs on that battery and measure the voltage WHILE the battery suplies current to the load. You will find a voltage drop at the battery level. It’s normal, is how these things run. A complex electronic device must take that into account in it’s design. At idle/browsing web/viewing picture, the tablet draws about 1.1 amps from a battery that’s registering 3.87volts (at that test’s time in my case). Running a benchmark/video game produced a series of spikes to 2 – 2.1 amps and an aditional voltage drop to around 3.61 volts. Remember that some power rails require exact voltages (cpu core, main bus, 5volt usb bus etc). The power circuitry must provide those exact voltages regarding the input voltage swing. Noup... and that’s the main problem untill now. THEY DONT! I was shocked to see how the chinese engineers are pushing it right on the edge. If you desolder one battery pin and insert an ampere meter in series, that’s enough to induce the little voltage drop needed for the tablet to freeze under load or shut down alltogether. The ampere meter leads were rated to withstand 10 amps under load – and they do, yet the simple fact you inserted a piece of wire along the track is enough to disturb an already delicate balance. The thing is only barely capable of whitstanding it’s own battery voltage swing. In my opinion you can try to reduce the load by disabling turbo modes on cpu/gpu or whatever (and teclast tried with some bios/models of the x98 air) but you cannot fix this by firmware. It’s just bad hardware design. They cut costs on the power management side.
Those are my finds untill now. I’m thinking of adding some capacitance over the power rails to take the load over from the batteries when a large amount of current is drawn (spikes that occur under load). Other then that, there is not much to do about this.
Even so, i don’t know why the tablet still draws power while turned off. I wasn’t able to make it do that while measuring. Aditionally i don’t know why only one cell is reported in windows. More tests are required.
This is still an ongoing "project". Some of my conclusion could be wrong at this stage. Like i've said it's still a work in progress. It would be quite a thing if anyone with some knoledge about the BIOS code (or how it runs on this tablet) could step in and direct me to the right hardware to examine.
here are some photos with the guts of this tablet
As you can see, the C9J8 at least has some metal shield above the cpu area and some crappy thermal compound over it. Some older models lacked the metal shield.
Next we have the battery wires and their link to the motherboard. As you can see, left to the 3 wires there are 4 brown devices, mounted in parallel. Those are capacitors. Like i've said above I'm thinking of adding some aditional capacitance to further help the motherboard compensate for the voltage drops registered on high load scenarios. The chinese guys thought of that, added the 4 caps but deemed them enough. Noup, that's just barely doing it. In fact the whole design is made to a price point, that's to be expected.
For easier probing, I've disconnected the red positive wire, and added a piece of wire of my own, one end to the battery red wire the other to it's coresponding pad on the motherboard. At the end of my wire, i'm probing in series with an ampere meter.
And for the sake of it, here's a photo with the registered power consumption with the tablet on. 1.11 amps x 3.8 volts = 4.21W total power being drawn. Actually that's pretty good. I remember the days i was probing a htc hd2 for some cpu related problems. While doing a benchmark at full brightness that device draw a maximum of 5.5 W. Due to the recent advancements, now we see a tablet drawing only 4.2W (admited, it's not on full load, but the screen is also much larger).
Anyway let's get back to our problems.
1. The high power drain when the tablet was off can be solved in the same way as fixing the reported battery capacity. Like previous guides made, you need to fully discharge the battery and then charge for 8 hours with the tablet OFF (don't turn it on). I had to do this 2 times to get the thing to work.
2. 7% battery and 1 cell reported. Like i've said in my first post, i've tried to let the battery discharge and then recharge while turned off. It never work. However, after desoldering the battery wires from the motherboard and then soldering them back (power was cut off from the motherboard during that time) now after my first attempt to discharge/recharge the battery, the capacity and number of cells are reported correctly for the first time since i've had this tablet. I now have to discharge the tablet again to see if it will get stuck at 7% again but at least i get the capacity reported like it should.
2. The shutdown/freeze under load. This thing ocured to me several times in the past but for whatever reason the tablet doesn't do that anymore. Arghhh.... Anyway, if anyone has this problem and knows how to reproduce it in windows (i'm only running windows now) please do tell me in order to test some solutions to it. My first try is to add some capacitors over the main power rail. If this will work, i'll then design a capacitance multiplier circuit using some transistors since there is not enough space in the tablet to simply add capacitors.
3. High standby drain. In my best scenario, the tablet draws 0.3 to 0.5 amps in standby and that's huge. I've tried disconnecting various devices on the motherboard but all that power goes into the cpu area. It has to do with the cpu core voltage and stand by states. The cpu is simply not sleeping deep enough. However that should be fixable with a bios update if teclast should decide to bother with that. One problem though, it seems not all tablets have this problem. But since it's located in the cpu area, if it should be a hardware fault there is no practical diy fix for that.
Just to confirm, you have tried the 2.02 BIOS that was released with the Lollipop beta a few weeks ago? Several people have reported that this BIOS solved the Windows standby battery issues. I've avoided flashing it myself because many people have also bricked their tablets.
Edited post..
I did tried that, no change. I'm close to fixing my particular problem. I'm now at about 1% per hour.
I'll keep testing meanwhile.
this seems allot like my issues with a C5J6, mostly unstable while charging or shortly after charging, also restart/shutdown is a hit and miss, most of the times I need to hold the power button for 10 seconds after I do reboot/shutdown and start the tablet again.
I'm trying to contact the seller (got it from banggood) but they want a video, should not be that hard but I dunno what they can do about obvious design flaws.
Do you think you can ever get the tablet stable yourself? (I'm not completely sure it's part Windows issues or not)
btw, I only use Windows as I was not interested in another android tablet.
I also just picked up a X98 Air 3G from GearBest, it's the C5J6 version. I just ran into the battery charge stuck at 7% in windows. I'm going to try clearing hibernation data, turning off hibernate while low (powercfg -setdcvalueindex SCHEME_CURRENT SUB_BATTERY BATACTIONCRIT 0) and then fully draining (manual) and letting it charge while off overnight.
I'm very interested in what you have been finding, I would be more than willing to help out if you need any assistance. I have a mutli-meter, soldering iron and a desire to get this thing working like it should. It bugs the hell out of me that it has these silly problems. My Bios version is 5.6.5 with a BIOS build date of 1-16-2015.
Could this have something to do with the Intel Power Managment drivers? Does this 7% problem still continue under Android? I suppose I need to do more testing myself.
HWINFO shows 14432 Designed Capacity (half) current capacity is 1007 mWh (7.0%) current voltage 3.784 V
It's been working fine under Windows for the last week, I dont really use Android much though I will likely try RemixOS sometime soon. I was considering blowing out all the partitions (BTW is there a map of all the partitions and their functions/contents?) and going with straight Windows 10 Pro when its full final version is out.
Is there a list of all hardware revisions and their release date and changes/logs? C5JG,C9J8, wtc......) the naming convention seems to have no real correlation to revision date huh?
PS: I also have been getting forced hibernation under heavy load/heat. I wonder if switching to another version of Windows will change anything? Anyone have the 7% issue and shutdowns under Win7?
Hello liquidmass. The 7% problem happens for me in both windows and android. I haven't figured out what to blame but the hardware side "knows" how to measure the actual charge level, it's just that the reporting part is all wrong or the software is poorly written (BIOS, mostly).
Funny though, all my initial problems seem to have vanished. I cannot figure out why since i can't make the tablet to do those bugs again. The single most probable thing it could have made any difference was the fact that i desoldered the battery wires and short circuited the pads on the motherboard (all 3 of them together) during some initial testing. Since I cannot make the tablet to shutdown under load I can't test a capacitance multiplier circuit over the power rail in order to check for improvements. The damn thing just works now.
Yet, the battery gauge still is broken and since i don't know the software side of these things i cannot figure out why. I can let it discharge completely and it would work fine for some time but it will occur again and so i would have to do it again and so on. I guess i can live with that...
motoi_bogdan said:
Hello liquidmass. The 7% problem happens for me in both windows and android. I haven't figured out what to blame but the hardware side "knows" how to measure the actual charge level, it's just that the reporting part is all wrong or the software is poorly written (BIOS, mostly).
Funny though, all my initial problems seem to have vanished. I cannot figure out why since i can't make the tablet to do those bugs again. The single most probable thing it could have made any difference was the fact that i desoldered the battery wires and short circuited the pads on the motherboard (all 3 of them together) during some initial testing. Since I cannot make the tablet to shutdown under load I can't test a capacitance multiplier circuit over the power rail in order to check for improvements. The damn thing just works now.
Yet, the battery gauge still is broken and since i don't know the software side of these things i cannot figure out why. I can let it discharge completely and it would work fine for some time but it will occur again and so i would have to do it again and so on. I guess i can live with that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm trying to figure out the 7% bug as well but I don't think it has anything to do with software. I might try and open it up to de-solder the battery wires and short the mainboard pins (if anyone else does this, make sure you do disconnect the battery and don't short the wires of the battery!!)
The shutdown under load might be my issues as well, but the most annoying thing probably is that reboot or shutdown don't work most of the time, it will just hang in a state that requires me to press the power button for 10 seconds and start it up again (with shutdown this isn't always obvious until you try and turn it on again)
I kinda hope things get a bit more stable with windows 10, else it's quite an expensive paperweight to be honest.
Hello,
I have several months a X98 Air 3G with id: C5J6. After two weeks I try install thunderbird and windows 10 collapse. I send several mails at Teclast with very little result. Such things as brushing in the language Chinese. After a while I try to reinstall windows via the UBS. After that my tablet has a black screen. I try to send the tablet back to china but that’s no option. I have experience that its never come back. With the USB flasher CH341A and a flash cable I flash the WINBOND 25Q64FW on board after disconnecting the battery. When I read it is flashed. So far so good? After loading with 5 volt and connecting the battery my tablet stays black. Now I put it in the box and put it far a way and buy something else. Never again in china.
My x98 is been stuck at 0% battery it wont turn on or charge...
I've disassembled the tablet and charged the battery externally, still not working. Any sugestion?
Hello, we have encountered similar problems with the Teclast Air III not turning on. Did you conclude anything?
Larterptx said:
My x98 is been stuck at 0% battery it wont turn on or charge...
I've disassembled the tablet and charged the battery externally, still not working. Any sugestion?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
u should cut the red wire in the battery.. wait 5 minutes to reset then again solder the wire..
I encountered the same problem and above solution worked for me
I turned my tablet off last night and plugged the charger in. The tablet already had maybe 60 or 70 percent charge. This morning it wouldn't turn on or charge. I tried the above and desoldered battery etc but no luck. The charger is putting out 5v. The battery only read 0.05v. And when on charge it reads 0.38v. It's my battery dead and needs replacing it is It another problem.
Same problem not turning on after battery fully drained in win8, please help
The advice I found somewhere to check power management on drivers seems to have stopped power drain in standby (windows 10). in particular Sound controller>realtek I2S Audio Codec>Power management>untick "allow device to wake computer"
Now the thing doesn't drain too badly. Before the rapid drain also lead me to the power on issue which I can now 'solve' by getting a charge in before it drains.
Alos, needs at least 2.1amps charger to fire up after draining.
Still get that uncertain feeling as to whether it will turn on or not!, but the last week or so has been fine.
I can confirm the power drain issues. Our Chinese friends made no effort in stabilizing the power line.
I'm using my AIR 3 as a home automation / wall tablet. Because it was unstable as hell I disconnected the the battery-print from the battery, and connected a laptop charger (4.62a) with buck down converter to it. With some tinkering I made Android believe the battery was 100% full and always charging. This made it much stabler, but still every 2 days, it just dies on me. Keep in mind this is a wall tablet, the screen goes off, only wifi is at full-performance wake-lock. So it's doing absolutely nothing, ice-cold to the touch, and still dies in the middle of the night. It's not logging errors anywhere, so I suspect a hardware problem.
Pondering what to do because the tablet is already flush mounted and I would need a different tablet with the exact screen dimensions.
Absolutely no more Teclast for me...
Has anyone modded the Teclast X98 to work without battery. Plugging a cable directly to the battery connection inside?
I see someone used a laptop charger, but I dont have one. Is it possible to use a regular USB charger?
I just bought a new battery and even with it the drain is absurd. This tablet has become unusuable.
Sadly Teclast is absolute garbage
Dear friends....Be careful with this company....their items is totally un- trustworthy..After sales support is terrible, they dont respond to emails messages etc and generally they dont care about their customers....this is not only my opinion, read the XDA forum about teclast products...Too bad for this company. Try to find what you looking for to another brand.....https://forum.xda-developers.com/x98-air/general/teclast-warning-buy-t3161767
I have air 3g model C5J8, It is working quite well, but with 2.5 A power charger when working with both OS's on it, batery is draining, It means that it is impossible to work with tablet longer than 7-8 hrs even with power charger connected, Is it normal in this model?
I tried using the tablet without battery with a 3.1 amp usb charger, but the Air III powerpeaks are to much for it to handle.
Now with a laptop charger of 4.62 amps, it's mich stabler, but it still dies on me...
Teclast = crap. Don't waste your money on it.
Hi,
My wife's S5 mini seems to have developed a nasty habit of not even fully charging overnight.
When using a USB powermeter, I see the current fluctuating between (roughly) 200 and 800mA. Other devices on the same multiport USB charger have no such issues, so it is not the charger.
When using the OEM charger and lead it will also charge very slow, to the point where it may not even be full the next morning.
I downloaded the Galaxy charging app (very informative on my S4), but it always shows 1mA chargingcurrent, so I assume it does not work on the S5 mini.
I cleaned the USB-port on the phone and removed some lint, but no difference.
Wiggling the micro-USB-plug makes no difference, nor do different charging cables.
We switched the phone OFF and removed and reseated the battery: the problem persists.
What I did NOT yet do is swap the battery (we have two same-age S5 mini's in the house and only one has the issue). If I can pry the second one from my daughters hands, I will try this and report back. Obviously if the problem moves with the battery, it is the battery. If not, it's the phone. Or if the problem is gone, then it is just those darn Gremlins again.
What I also did not do is boot into safe mode (or whatever is sometimes adviced) as the phone does not go through its battery fasst, it just charges very slow. An inefficient app would also not explain the fluctuating currentdraw (certainly not it dropping below 500mA when battery is 80% empty), so atm I don't consider an app to be a likely culprit.
Any ideas are welcomed.
Ideas:
1. Install and use the free app Ampere to check both cable and charger;
2. Turn phone off and plug in charger, even off it shows the percent charged, so you can check if it's system software problem or not.
Check if the micro usb port is dirty. You can't imagine how much dirt can get there, specially fibers from clothes. Normally I use a needle to clean it, maybe there is something more appropiate.
Got the same problem after 3months use.
To avoid this problem:
1- Plug the charger
2- After 5 seconds connect micro-usb into the phone
If you connect first the phone to the charger it will not charge properly