Related
I'll start from the top, I broke my phone's screen so I had it replaced by HTC. I shipped the phone (without a battery) to HTC like they wanted and got a new phone back. I installed "HD_III_BlackStone WWE" rom, and it worked fine for about 4 days or so. but eventually it wouldn't charge, I figured my battery was finally shot so I bought a new one, it worked fine for awhile but now it won't charge at all.
my computer doesn't even recognize my tilt, never says anything is connected. it does have the checkbox unchecked for computer charging, so that should be fine.
and I've tried 2 different computers with 3 different cables, as well as my car charger and 2 wall chargers =/
I've searched around but I haven't found any information regarding this, I have a feeling my car charger might've some how killed my USB port on my phone.
can anyone point me in the right direction on this? I am pretty tech savvy but I just don't know where to start troubleshooting this any deeper.
any help will be greatly appreciated, i'll be checking this frequently.
Some options
greggsauce said:
I have a feeling my car charger might've some how killed my USB port on my phone.
can anyone point me in the right direction on this?
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Maybe this stickied WARNING: Active Brodit Carkit thread in the Kaiser accessories forum may be of some assistance. What car charger kit have you got? Of course your replacement Kaiser should have a warranty as long as it has an official configuration. Without a working USB port you'll have difficulty restoring the original configuration as not all required steps can be done with the microSD card method - one of the risks with running custimised ROMs on devices still under warranty. If you have that particular car charger then maybe you can get some comeback from that company and a cheap Kaiser battery charging cradle will keep you going in the mean time - it just means swapping batteries to charge them. You can still use bluetooth for activesync (buying a dongle for the PC if reqd).
Thank you so much for the reply... I'll have to do the MicroSD way then, thankfully i have one finally.
but I'm not using a Brodit Carkit, the issue seems identical though so that's probably why isn't it? =/
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=448467
give this a read and hope it works sounds better than above
nope, I researched as best as I could and thats not the issue either, the first reply seems correct.
I get no indication that its charging or connected through my PC or phone, that includes lights
nothing changes.
what kind of cradle will charge just the battery?
Clarification
greggsauce said:
Thank you so much for the reply... I'll have to do the MicroSD way then, thankfully i have one finally.
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My point about that is you WONT be able to fully restore everything via the microSD card method - the SPL reversion has to be done using the USB connection.
but I'm not using a Brodit Carkit, the issue seems identical though so that's probably why isn't it? =/
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Well whatever version you are using, if you check your port for physical damage as maxblaster linked to and thats all clear then hopefully your car kit supplier will be some help. At least the methods I suggested (battery charge cradle and bluetooth activesync) are cheap workarounds that can keep you going in the mean time. Good luck
Kaiser charging cradle
greggsauce said:
what kind of cradle will charge just the battery?
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I wanted to post a picture of one at the XDA-DEV shop (out of loyalty to this website) but cant find it anymore.
If you google Kaiser charging cradle you should find some results that have a flat recess at the back and that come with a mains adapter, the idea being you put a spare battery in the back, plug it in to the mains and it'll charge that battery. They also have a dished recess for the phone itself but you don't have to use that part to charge a battery. I have one of these devices and highly reccommend them for Kaiser users (along with a spare battery or two) as the devices are very battery hungry if you want to take advantage of all the features. PM me if you're still stuck and I can point you to a link.
thank you so much, looked around and ordered one
i appreciate all the help you've given me.
PS HTC is freaking trying to say they never repaired my phone
greggsauce said:
thank you so much, looked around and ordered one
i appreciate all the help you've given me.
PS HTC is freaking trying to say they never repaired my phone
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You're welcome. It sounds like HTC didn't repair your phone, they replaced it instead but I'd assume any replacements they provide would still be warrantied, even if only for a short period. The problem is you've customised it's ROM and while it's not in exactly the same ROM/Radio/SPL state as they supplied it to you in (or using an approved HTC 'upgrade' ROM) then they don't need to honour a warranty (restoring what you can would give you the best chance). If it is your car phone charger that was responsible for the damage then why not contact the supplier with your complaint.
Well basically, ive read about mintyboost and stuff like that, but what im wondering is... Can i build one SPECIFICALLY for my captivate? eg, cutting up the USB and soldering wires?
I found a 4 (AA) battery holder just yesterday, and ive been thinking of what to do with it. What other parts/pieces would i need to pick up in order to build this? Is it exactly the same as minty boost with the exception or the usb port?
Please let me know Thanks!
I'm working on this right now. Going to go 4xAA batteries (unless we find some fun LiPo pack on ebay or something we like better, I happen to have a bunch of NiMH AA's right now), and we'll be shorting out pins 2-3 in the female USB to try to force AC mode from the pack. We'll be going into an altoids tin, hopefully. We may, also, go with 5xAA's just to make sure peak voltage stays high enough for long enough, space inside the can will be an issue. I suppose we could actually put two OEM Captivate batteries in there, they'll fit just fine...hmm.
The first version won't allow the batteries to charge from USB, the second version probably will.
When we do it, I'll take pics and schematics and whatnot. The only trick is that the captivate, as far as I understand it, wants 5v at 500mAh to USB-charge or 750mAh w/ pins 2&3 shorted for AC (fast) mode. Again, the final product should also be able to exceed 1500mAh total capacity (the captivate battery capacity), which won't be an issue with high-capacity AA's in place. We will may only get 1-1.5 full charges, but for me it's an "emergency backup" kind of thing, and if we can actually trick it into AC mode, we'll be smooth sailing.
Sounds interesting, good luck on the progress
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA App
Minty Boost!
Yeah tommelee! Keep us updated im sure wed all like to know about it.
And as for mintyboost, i like the idea, but i dont want to keep plugging in a USB cable. I just want it to be specifically for the cappy
Lapdock+Wii == Gametrix
So I have a spare Nintendo Wii and a lapdock (hopefully pick some more up if there are still any at Radioshack) and I am going to disassemble the Wii, reconfigure it to fit on the back "panel" of the Lapdock, and get the needed cords to create a Gametrix[/]
My initial goal is to connect a Nintendo Wii to my Atrix Lapdock by... (with modifications)
1) a. Having the Lapdock’s Male Mini-HDMI plugged into a Female Mini-HDMI TO M / F Fullsized-HDMI converter. Thus allowing a direct HDMI connection from there.
This takes care of ½ of connections for both the Lapdock and the Wii.
2) a. Ideally I am looking to hook the Wii’s power supply directly to the Lapdock’s Male Micro-USB port, via a Female Micro-USB TO M / F Fullsized-USB. From there I’d need a USB to Female Wall Outlet (3 prong?) this would entail finding(unlikely...) / building one.
This takes care of power needs, (if it works) leaving only the unlikely usability of the Lapdocks built in keyboard and mouse / USB ports.
2) b. if number 2 section a (above) doesn’t work because of lack of volts traveling through the USB to the Wii, then I’d be left with connecting an external battery to the Wii and just taking advantage of the screen.
Hopefully if I have to result to section b then I’d at least be able to use the keyboard and mouse?
I will update with a Diagram of my plan “a” and “b” tomorrow after school.
Here are average power draw for the Wii. @17 Watts http://www.blogcdn.com/www.joystiq.com/media/2007/02/next-gen_console_power_lg.jpg
And here for Gamecube. @23 Watts http://www.tpcdb.com/product.php?id=1615
Lapdock voltage output. ??? I think I'd have to replace the battery because it's only supposed to charge a phone/run an OS...
Lapdock insternal battery mAh ???
Please guys I know it's a lot but any input is great input
sounds fun. good luck dude.
Use a wii its better and supports a HDMI converter.
The gamecube already has a battery pack accessory and a screen accessory so its easy been done
Sent from Moto Atrix 4g on Neutrino 2.91
I have decided to go with the Wii, I am trying to find info on how many amps the Wii draws and if the Lapdock is capable of powering it...
I think I would try seeing how they both look on the screen before diving in much further, but it does sound like it could be a fun project.
Other thoughts:
how useful the project will be specifically to you? For many of us, due to the limited availability of the lapdocks, there's a limited number of people that will be able to try this themselves.
do you plan on strictly playing games, or are you going a bit further by using Linux on the device? I imagine there is a way you could use the keyboard as some type of input device, although you may have to create some translator device from a programmable Microcontroller.
is the screen big enough for enjoying using the device or is it more of a challenge than it's worth. The screen may be plenty big enough for a handheld device, but for something like using a Wii controller where you are at a distance from the screen, is it big enough?
Budget This is something we all overlook far to often. Something starts off small and simple, but before you know it, you end up spending way more than you had anticipated.
I have 2 Wii's and a Lapdock, so budget is covered.
I'm not going to use the motion bar, just gamecube games.
My main concern is if the Lapdock can power it.
jeffreygtab said:
I have 2 Wii's and a Lapdock, so budget is covered.
I'm not going to use the motion bar, just gamecube games.
My main concern is if the Lapdock can power it.
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Power will probably be an issue through USB as USB does have a specification for max current of 500–900 mA (general); 5 A (charging devices). After that the port should shutdown to prevent burning out the controller.
Edit: I was looking at your figures above, did some digging, and I think you have a couple hurdles.
To start with, for power consumption, you want to look more at peak then you do at min and give yourself a bit of cushion, mainly because running at max power all the time will tax components. Second, and this is a big one, the Wii power pack apparently is 12V 3.7A (44.4W). USB is only 5 volts, and at 900mA you're peaking at 4.5W. However, if you could somehow manage to trick it into charge mode, you might be able to squeeze 25W. That's if it works like a standard USB port. If you can do that, you can step up the voltage with a charge pump, but I'm not quite sure how close to max that will put you due to efficiency losses. You may be able to go the other way and use the Wii to power the lapdock, or you may have to power them independently.
All that said, I think it's still important to just try to see what it looks like on the screen before digging in too far.
I plan on charging it through the Micro USB which you said supplies up to 23W+ Which is apparently plenty for the Wii. I'm going to order the necessary cords to attempt this, this weekend. So next week I'll know how much, if any, I have to modify to power it.....
I'll continue to research, and thanks for your help!
EDIT: screen size isn't an issue, as I'm have it right in from of me like a laptop, Playing Super Smash Bros Melee and the like.
BIG Message to everyone who's reading this. THIS IS MY FIRST HARDWARE MOD (as if that wasn't obvious?)
Anyways I'm gonna pick up a soldering iron as well, because I'm not finding a way to charge the Wii (assuming the Lapdock is capable...) There are no real ways to convert the micro usb to the 3 prong standard outlet that the Wii uses... So I may need to make my own? Will this work? http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=1274 Although I can't find where to buy it.
jeffreygtab said:
BIG Message to everyone who's reading this. THIS IS MY FIRST HARDWARE MOD (as if that wasn't obvious?)
Anyways I'm gonna pick up a soldering iron as well, because I'm not finding a way to charge the Wii (assuming the Lapdock is capable...) There are no real ways to convert the micro usb to the 3 prong standard outlet that the Wii uses... So I may need to make my own? Will this work? http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=1274 Although I can't find where to buy it.
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You mean you want to convert 5V DC to 120V AC and then downconvert to 12V? Better to just go from 5V to 12V, but the reality is that it's much easier to go down than up. What does the lapdock itself have for a power supply?
Edit: Looks like the Wii has some type of USB keyboard support. Not sure if you want to try getting that to work, but it might come in handy.
I know but isn't the Wii's power cord a standard 120v 3 prong wall charger? I'd have to convert the 3 prong format to a Micro USB.
The lapdocks power supply is the battery if that's what you were asking...
Thanks for helping on my first project btw.
Check out about halfway down the page on this link if you want to see what the Wii looks like on the lapdock screen:
http://www.robpol86.com/index.php/Atrix_Lapdock_Other_Uses
jeffreygtab said:
I know but isn't the Wii's power cord a standard 120v 3 prong wall charger? I'd have to convert the 3 prong format to a Micro USB.
The lapdocks power supply is the battery if that's what you were asking...
Thanks for helping on my first project btw.
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I'm glad to share my limited knowledge. Anyway, Really, I'm unsure if you can pull 25W out of the USB or not, but even if you could, you'd lose a good chunk of that in going from 5V to 125V AC, because at this point, a charge pump is no longer an option but instead you would need a power inverter, and since most of the commercially available ones are designed to go from 12V DC to 120V AC, you would likely end up building one yourself. The charge pump (buck–boost converter) is much easier to build, but I'm not sure about how much power you can get out of it.
Here's one I built from modifying a schematic I found online somewhere:
I hate to be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
ravilov said:
I hate yo be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
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Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
But as I said, I don't know if you can get that much power out of this particular device. 20W @12V is 1.6A, but in order to power that from 5V, you would need at least 4 Amps, which puts it close to max, but not over it. The actual port connector is rated much higher than that.
Edit: I do have to agree on one point though, running on battery power will be pretty limiting, especially when you consider what the batteries were intended for in the first place.
So you're saying that there's basically no way to power the Wii with the Lapdock's setup? Ughhh I assumed this would be a major issue but decided I'd leave the verdict to those more knowledgeable than myself... So you're sure there's no way? Well anyways I hope at the very least to connect an external Battery (recommendations?) and hopefully get the Wii to recognize the trackpad and keyboard esp. for linux use... I'll keep researching and keep you guys posted.
edit:
ravilov said:
I hate yo be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
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lehjr said:
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
But as I said, I don't know if you can get that much power out of this particular device. 20W @12V is 1.6A, but in order to power that from 5V, you would need at least 4 Amps, which puts it close to max, but not over it. The actual port connector is rated much higher than that.
Edit: I do have to agree on one point though, running on battery power will be pretty limiting, especially when you consider what the batteries were intended for in the first place.
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Didn't read your reply Lehjr before posting mine, sorry about that. Anyways I'm still confused about whether or not the Lapdock is capable of powering the Wii? Anyways here is where I'm getting my very limited information on basic electronics. http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm I will keep studying though don't worry:laugh:
I'm going to post this on BenHeck Forums too for additional input. Again thank you guys.
lehjr said:
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
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Click to collapse
Hm, interesting. I don't know, I'd say even if the USB hardware might be able to withhold such high currents, it's only for a short while, not for continuous use. I'm talking about all the USB hardware now, not just the plugs and cords.
Anyway, while 5A might indeed be the theoretical maximum, I have yet to see an USB device that actually delivers anywhere close to that. Even most commercial "high-speed" chargers deliver only up to about 2A.
ravilov said:
Hm, interesting. I don't know, I'd say even if the USB hardware might be able to withhold such high currents, it's only for a short while, not for continuous use. I'm talking about all the USB hardware now, not just the plugs and cords.
Anyway, while 5A might indeed be the theoretical maximum, I have yet to see an USB device that actually delivers anywhere close to that. Even most commercial "high-speed" chargers deliver only up to about 2A.
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Right, running that close to maximum is likely going to be short lived, and that's if it can be coaxed to go there in the first place. I'm not sure what the portability thing is about anyway. The Wii may be small, but it's heavy.
---------- Post added at 09:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:19 PM ----------
jeffreygtab said:
So you're saying that there's basically no way to power the Wii with the Lapdock's setup? Ughhh I assumed this would be a major issue but decided I'd leave the verdict to those more knowledgeable than myself... So you're sure there's no way? Well anyways I hope at the very least to connect an external Battery (recommendations?) and hopefully get the Wii to recognize the trackpad and keyboard esp. for linux use... I'll keep researching and keep you guys posted.
edit:
Didn't read your reply Lehjr before posting mine, sorry about that. Anyways I'm still confused about whether or not the Lapdock is capable of powering the Wii? Anyways here is where I'm getting my very limited information on basic electronics. http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm I will keep studying though don't worry:laugh:
I'm going to post this on BenHeck Forums too for additional input. Again thank you guys.
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Possibly capable, very slim chance, but doing so would be running very close to max the entire time the Wii is powered. You would also have to build a device to convert 5V to 12V, again, not impossible, but you do lose some power do to conversion inefficiencies. Is there any particular reason you want the device to be portable? IMHO, in order to run the Wii for any length of time, you would need a decent set of batteries. A few amps plugged in is one thing, on battery power that's something else. I could easily see you using something like a couple Power Wheels 6V batteries and a 12V charger or some similar setup, maybe some lithium cells if you're a big spender. Anything more than that and you're wheeling this thing around on a cart with a deep cycle marine/RV battery.
Haha a definitive answer would be welcomed as to whether it's theoretically capable or not, but if you can't provide that, I completely understand! Anyways It just needs to be temporarily portable, like 1 hour battery life is plenty. Thanks... Btw I can't actually thank you guys anymore as I'm out of thanks.
My dock has been charging my phone perfectly for weeks, the other day I came in and plopped the phone on the dock and nothing.
I checked the pogo pins (of the dock) with a multimeter, they are working. I've tried different power sources for the dock as well (wall adapter, pc, other cables).
I've checked to make sure the pins are making contact with the phone, good solid contact.
I haven't changed anything on the phone recently, any suggestions?
The phone charges fine through USB.
[ANSWERED]
since i apparently posted this on the apple forums instead of xda, all the replies were "shoulda bought apple products"
so anyone having this problem, i solved it by reinstalling a nand backup. apparently it was a software issue. hopefully this saves you from the apple fanboys.
do you have original sony cradle? i had chinese replica and it did not work all times.
glukasil said:
do you have original sony cradle? i had chinese replica and it did not work all times.
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No, I was too impatient for it and got the goosewhite dock, besides I like the looks of it better tbh. The dock is putting out power, I don't get why it's not charging. its not a complex system at all.
Get the Sony one if you don't want the same issue occurring.
Sent from my C6603 using xda premium
why would changing the dock have anything to do with the problem? when voltage is applied to the pogo pins, the phone does not charge. how would changing the dock i use make a difference in that at all?
i would understand if the pogo pins were putting out less power or no power, but they put in exactly the amount of power going into the dock, they make good solid contact, i've check continuity and its making a solid connection...
Then take the dock apart and see if anything got loose
Sent from my C6603 using xda premium
Rajinn said:
why would changing the dock have anything to do with the problem?
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Because the one you've bought is rubbish!
I brought this as an alternative to the Sony DK26 because I was sick of opening the flap everytime I wanted to charge my phone. It does fit the Xperia Z and looks nice enough. It also activates the dock mode and the Xperia's smart connect function. This is why I gave it 1 star. HOWEVER, it outputs at 500mA as opposed to the 1800mA delivered by the Sony dock. This means it charges your phone incredibly slowly. I had my phone on the dock charging for 11 Hours and it managed to deliver a battery charge of just 51% which is ridiculous compared to the Sony charger which delivers a 100% charge in 2 hours.
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- Review
XperienceD said:
Because the one you've bought is rubbish!
- Review
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+1
I do not get why would anyone go for something cheaper and unreliable. Its like those iPhone users buying cheap non original cables to charge their iPhones, ended up causing the phone to blow up or messed up and blames it on Apple.
and yes you are the owner of the phone and you have the right to buy whatever 3rd party equipment for your phone, but dont expect it to work 100%.
Doesnt make sense if you ask me sir.
It is really hard to determine the main cause of this matter. It could be your phone: hardware or software (i doubt it is this one), or the 3rd party dock.
You tell me which one to throw and buy a new one.
Already told you why I bought it. There's nothing but stupidity in that review as docks do not put out power, they transfer it, the power supply puts out power. As for the amperage, it puts out what you put in. it will do [email protected] if you are stupid enough to put that through it... Assuming the wires don't burn. if you are going to base your assumptions on a review, at least choose one from someone knowledgeable. also, my dock never took 11 hours to charge, not that i ever bothered timing it but it sure as hell wasnt more than 4 hours (and thats giving an a good bit of a safety margin), i'd guess 2 hours 0-100 if i had to.
What I'm telling you is that the phone is not accepting the charge, not that the dock is messed up but the phone. And I wanted to know if anyone had similar issues or suggestions.
I'm glad you have insight on the matter and an opinion, however you are not trying to answer the question. I've already informed you the dock is intact and making a connection. I've checked the voltage of the xperia official charger at the cable at its end: 4v dc, the dock when hooked to that charger is 4v dc tested at the pins. I can put a larger amount through it, and any number of amps. A pogo dock is a very simple device, official or otherwise, the difference is mainly in price and design. The diy thread is a perfect example of that.
@LitoNi
I took it apart, nothing is loose. thanks
Rajinn said:
I'm glad you have insight on the matter and an opinion, however you are not trying to answer the question.
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It's been answered, you've not bought an official product, that's the problem! Buy cheap unofficial batteries, expect issues, buy cheap replica SD Cards, expect issues, buy cheap unofficial chargers, expect issues, and looks like you can cheap docs to that list too.
XperienceD, please continue answering me with your infinite wisdom you learned from the internet. obviously you know everything about electronics.
btw fixed it, reinstalled my nand backup. software problem ftl.
didnt know this was an apple forum.
Rajinn said:
XperienceD, please continue answering me with your infinite wisdom you learned from the internet. obviously you know everything about electronics.
btw fixed it, reinstalled my nand backup. software problem ftl.
didnt know this was an apple forum.
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Have same dock and same issue sometimes it doesn't want to charge but I just simply put it out and in and it works after reinserting.
[email protected]
Rajinn said:
XperienceD, please continue answering me with your infinite wisdom you learned from the internet. obviously you know everything about electronics.
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Click to collapse
I'm sharing what some of us have learned here, cheap non official products give issues, accept it or don't.
From me to you.
Hi everyone. I wanted to introduce a new type of a OTG cable that some members may find very useful if you use OTG cables and move data from/to your phone often . The unique thing about this cable is the the USB can be retracted to become Male or Female meaning it can be used for charging like a standard cable and also an OTG in an instant in one non-split cable.
This cable was originally funded through a kickstarter page under the name 1cables, more can be read about the cable here
I'm the first seller to have received this cable for resale in the UK and would like to know what the XDA community thinks of it and how useful would this product be.
The listing can be found here
I can accept offers from xda members for £6.99 for feedback and review purposes
having watched the video, you will likely carry it around in a bag so you might as well just carry around a spare USB battery pack as well, instead of draining your phone (great you can charge your friend's one, but it then means yours is gonna suffer instead, what are the chances of you having loads more battery than your friend??)...
And if you need all those keyboards and gamepads you can just use bluetooth... tbh I think this has limited uses
this cable are really interesting and i think i will buy one.
that's a great idea
Thanks for the feedback. The nature of use is subjective. I'm using this as my main charging cable at work so to have the ability to transfer files without having a extra cable is great.
i have receveid one and i an rea&lly happy, thanks for the promo. it works perfect, that a good product