Database Develop

[Q] Faster USB Charging?

Just reading up on USB chargers, and I found somewhere in a thread here about phones defaulting to smaller ma when charging via USB if the connector didn't have the data pins shorted or something.
So, I was wondering a couple of things:
1) If the default charger supplies 700ma, do you think that is the most the Nexus S can draw? Does anyone have one of these shorted USB chargers? Does it charge the NS faster?
2) If it does charge faster, how hard would it be to do something similar to shorting the data connections? I have a generic AC-USB cable which I currently use for my iPod touch.
3) Is there a way to check if it is already shorted out? The USB charging port looks similar to ones on my computer, but I'm not sure what to look for.
Thanks for any help! Maybe if we can sort out this stuff, we can provide a solution for those looking for faster charging!

it does work safely, i'm using a 1000 mAh charger at home, and a 2000 mAh charger in the car both are from aftermarket eBay/DealExtreme charges.
no overheating
and charges faster than stock

AllGamer said:
it does work safely, i'm using a 1000 mAh charger at home, and a 2000 mAh charger in the car both are from aftermarket eBay/DealExtreme charges.
no overheating
and charges faster than stock
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thankyou for that AllGamer, I'll think of possible ways I could mod the charger now

The only reason it is slow is because of the USB charging brick instead of just a charger.
Sent from my Nexus S using XDA App

I know it's a wrong thread, but anyone has any pointers as to how to short a regular USB cable to make the phone think it's a power adapter cable?

XBOHDPuKC said:
I know it's a wrong thread, but anyone has any pointers as to how to short a regular USB cable to make the phone think it's a power adapter cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah it's not the wrong thread that was one of my questions! I'm not sure exactly where you would do it, but maybe if you skinned the wire, then cut the data lines it would work?
Not sure which end you would do it on however, but that may not matter. Any other ideas?

The two center pins in the USB carry the data. If you pull them out, the cable won't be able to connect to the computer.
Sent from my Nexus S

Wow - you don't need to do this and you wouldn't want to in a computer anyway.
The USB specification says that 500ma (@ 5v) of current should be available from a computer's USB port. Of course, the actual wires can carry much more than this, so manufacturers can tell their phones to takes as much current as is offered.
Almost all computers limit their USB power output accordingly - this is why some opld usb-powered external hard drives needed 2 USB plugs to get enough power. The only computers that I am SURE emit significantly more than 500ma on their USB ports are first and second generation MacBook Airs.
Some phones, the N1 and every other HTC specifically, look for a specially shorted cable to "know if they are plugged into the wall adaptor" as opposed to a computer USB port. In reality, this is just a way to make you specifically buy HTC chargers as opposed to third-party off-brands, because plugging one of these phones into an off brand charger will limit the current draw to about 450ma.
If you want to know if your Android phone thinks that it is in "USB" mode or in "AC" mode, just plug the phone in, open the dialer, enter *#*#4636#*#* and then select battery info. If your phone is one that cares (not all do), it will say USB if it thinks it should be in USB charging mode, or AC if it thinks it should be in AC charging mode.
I would not try shorting out the middle pins in a cable and then plugging it into the computer. First, most will probably just disable the USB port completely, shutting off even power you could draw. Second, if it doesn't shut down, you run the risk that a badly-built USB port might not properly limit the current to 500ma - and since they are not designed to furnish more current than that, you might melt something expensive or start a fire. third, if you make a mistake, you risk shorting out either your phone or your computer, which might ruin your day, week or month, depending on your financial means to replace the system that cooks itself.
I would just run out to your local store, pay 15 bucks for a 2A third-party usb charger brick, and go to town. That will work perfectly - this is what I use, and it probably cuts the charge time by 30-40%. Obviously, this indicates that the NS is not capable of drawing a full 2A - I have not put a meter on it, but I would bet that it limits itself to somewhere just under an amp in.

I have recently bought both a 2A wall charger and car charger and my phone does not recognise either of these as anything more than a 500mA source.
Is it really just a case of opening the car charger up and shorting out pins 2 & 3? they are currently not connected to anything in the charger.

If it's indeed a matter of shorting the data lines, then I think you can skin the wire as suggested by others, but then cut the data lines, short the end that leads to the phone, leave the end to the computer open. I think it's the phone that tries to determine whether the data lines are shorted.
Edit: Can someone measure the continuity between the data pins with the stock charger? I wonder if they are shorted. I'm still waiting for my Nexus S to arrive, so can't test it.

Yup, the data lines in the stock Nexus S charger ARE shorted.
I just modified a cheap 1A car charger by popping it open, soldering the 2 data lines together and putting it back.
The report on the Nexus S before I did this (*#*#4636#*#*) said "USB", and afterwards it now says "AC".
I will report back after I make a road trip if this improves the GPS + Pandora + Screen in car situation. I suspect it will.
----------------
Yup, the car charger seemed to actually maintain and increase the battery this time. Seems good.

The NS supports chargers output to a max of 1000mA, as it says on the back of it, where the battery resides.

[Q] Cheap replacement USB cable?

Hi guys, I accidentally left my charger and USB cable at a friend's house 700 miles away during a visit. She sent it back to me, but it's been a bit over two weeks and I'm tired of being Nookless, especially with all of the new stuff developing (cyanogen on the way? AWWW YEAH!!).
Neither of the two BN stores near my house have replacement charger/cables in stock and it appears that the BN website does not either (not even a price listed, just a pic/description).
What is the cheapest way for me to get some power in this thing? I wouldn't mind charging solely through USB. Is the stock NookColor USB cable any different than a normal micro-usb cable? Can I just order a normal $2 cable from amazon and expect it to charge?

The cable that comes with the NookColor differs from a standard micro usb in a couple of important ways: It has extra pins to deliver a higher charge. OK, I guess by "a couple" I meant "one that I am aware of." Alright, maybe one more: The charger itself is rated at .5A, which is higher than the standard plug for usb chargers.
You might be able to trickle charge from a standard usb. I was able to get some power, but not much.
Here's one more thing to do:
Ask the manager at B&N if she has any extra chargers and cables in the back. Here's why I say this: I had to return my cable yesterday because it wasn't making proper contact with the pins and thus was not properly charging. The manager told me that he has a heap of NookColor plugs and cables in a box because when they send units back to wherever they send them for repair or reconditioning, they are instructed to send only the Nook, and not the cables.
It's worth a try.
Good luck.

It does charge very slowly when connected to the PC...It will charge overnight if not in use..

I have some Nokia cables (from my mobile) with Micro-USB, they are loading the Nook nearly as fast as the original one. Very handy for charging in the car.

I have been charging my nook with only a standard cable since day one. My nook came with a bad cable and at the time was one of the last nooks in my area. I have been calling B&N almost weekly for over a month and they keep saying they will send me a cable but I have not received it yet. I have had no problems charging my Nook overnight. I even emptied the battery once and it still charged fully over night.

A regular microUSB cable will eventually charge the NC, if it's sleeping. No 3-hour quick-charging, though.

Does the slow charging really have to do with the cable?
On high draw devices (e.g. iPhone or Palm Pre) the charger shorts the data pins to signal the capacity for higher current draw. The cable has nothing to do with it.
I have noticed the Nook plug is longer than a standard micro USB plug, but that only means you can't use the Nook cable on another device's micro USB port.

Anybody know the potential problems trying to root with a non-standard Cable?

mageus said:
I have noticed the Nook plug is longer than a standard micro USB plug, but that only means you can't use the Nook cable on another device's micro USB port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is this confirmed to be true? If so, what allows a non-Nook USB cable to be used with the Nook?
I'm sure the cable itself is different, either by using the data lines as additional power lines for higher current capacity, or perhaps by adding some resistors to pull the data lines to certain voltages so that the Nook can identify when the "right" cable is connected, so that fast-charging can be enabled. I just can't quite grasp the idea that the cable is not physically compatible with other micro-USB devices.

I am able to use the original nook usb cable, my samsung moment usb cable, and others for data purposes, no issues

I have two other devices that also use M-USB for data transfer, and they work just fine.
I picked up a few of these a while back and they work as well:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=micro_usb_cable-_-12-119-265-_-Product

It seems that you can call B&N support for a new one if you had issues with your original. Not the OP's problem, but Some have had the issue.
Here is a thread about it:
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...t-to-slide-charger-into-Nook-Color/m-p/809920

nootered said:
I have two other devices that also use M-USB for data transfer, and they work just fine.
I picked up a few of these a while back and they work as well:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=micro_usb_cable-_-12-119-265-_-Product
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So the idea is that these could be used only for data and trickle-charging? Even if it's connecting the Nook to its official power-thingy (is there a name for those?)

markiejones said:
So the idea is that these could be used only for data and trickle-charging? Even if it's connecting the Nook to its official power-thingy (is there a name for those?)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am just using it for data transfer and charging with the stock wall unit. As far s using these cables or other USB devices that using the MicroUSB interface would require some type of software driver (USB Host) in order to make that work. As far as I know at least.

manchucka said:
Alright, maybe one more: The charger itself is rated at .5A, which is higher than the standard plug for usb chargers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually... .5A is the minimum for all plain jane USB ports.
If I remember right, when I flipped the charger over when I first got the NC, it is rated at 1.9A, which would make sense considering the size of the battery we are charging and at the speed we are charging it at. Hell, my Epic uses a 1A charger and it is only 1500mAh battery vs the NC's 4000 mAh.

danbutter said:
It seems that you can call B&N support for a new one if you had issues with your original. Not the OP's problem, but Some have had the issue.
Here is a thread about it:
]
Wow thanks for that link. From the day I got my Nook I couldn't use the included USB cable to move data, but it would charge like a charm. Now I'm getting a replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

danbutter said:
It seems that you can call B&N support for a new one if you had issues with your original. Not the OP's problem, but Some have had the issue.
Here is a thread about it:
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...t-to-slide-charger-into-Nook-Color/m-p/809920
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True but.... I have been calling for well over a month and first they could not ship me one because I bought it at Best Buy and they did not have the warranty info yet from Best Buy. I finally got past that and since the week after Christmas they have been shipping me one each time I call. I have yet to receive one. I am going on 2 months now trying to get the cable shipped to me.

TainT said:
Anybody know the potential problems trying to root with a non-standard Cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think there are any.. I do all my ADB work using a "non-standard cable". The usb cable that came with my nook wont let ADB work right. When I type ADB devices with my factory cable I get the serial number but instead of device it shows suspended or something like that.

http://www.rdi.us/USBCC.pdf
Here is a link for a Hi - Power USB Car Charger. It's 2100mA and can run and charge an Android Tablet or iPad at the same time. Also the microUSB cable they offer, shows "Charging ( AC) ” When plugged into my Captivate. Most just showed "Charging ( USB) ".
Sent from my Samsung Captivate with Perception 10.3, Firebird2 v0.8 #77 Kernel, Firmware 2.2.1, Modem T959TLJL3 using XDA App

.5A is nothing. Most phone chargers now are rated at 1A with ones for tablets going above 2 as someone else mentioned. Most BT headset chargers are rated at .2-.5A in comparison. Some GPS units have charges rated over 1.5A. My Dash unit had a 2A.
And if I'm not mistaken, if you're connected to a computer you will only get a tricklish charge as it's limited to .2 or .25A (I believe).
In regards to actual cables, any microUSB cable will work. I've used stock ones from Samsung and Palm phones as well as cheap 50 cent ones from Meritline. And if the Nook one is actually longer? Why wouldn' it work in something else? The cable will just stick out further.
manchucka said:
The cable that comes with the NookColor differs from a standard micro usb in a couple of important ways: It has extra pins to deliver a higher charge. OK, I guess by "a couple" I meant "one that I am aware of." Alright, maybe one more: The charger itself is rated at .5A, which is higher than the standard plug for usb chargers.
You might be able to trickle charge from a standard usb. I was able to get some power, but not much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Anyway to charge at ~2 amps from computer?

Hi!
I just got my Nook and when I was about to charge it I realised I've lost my adapter for US plugs. Charging from the USB port on my computer is ridiculously slow, even with the Nook's USB/charger cable, and plugging it into my HTC charger makes that charger disconcertingly hot.
I reckon my computer's USB ports should be able to manage to provide at least a couple of amps, but, if I've understood things correctly, it won't provide anywhere near that much to the Nook unless the Nook asks for it.
So, is there any way to make the Nook ask for more juice?
Thanks in advance!
-- P

Animec said:
Hi!
I just got my Nook and when I was about to charge it I realised I've lost my adapter for US plugs. Charging from the USB port on my computer is ridiculously slow, even with the Nook's USB/charger cable, and plugging it into my HTC charger makes that charger disconcertingly hot.
I reckon my computer's USB ports should be able to manage to provide at least a couple of amps, but, if I've understood things correctly, it won't provide anywhere near that much to the Nook unless the Nook asks for it.
So, is there any way to make the Nook ask for more juice?
Thanks in advance!
-- P
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB ports are hardware limited to 500mA. It is part of the specification. Also most USB cables can't handle more current than this without damage. The Nook Color has a special cable with extra pins to handle the ~1900mA that it's charger puts out. The Nook doesn't 'Ask' for more juice, it's charger is capable of more current than a standard USB port, and the cable has the extra pins that carry the extra current. B&N did make it so that you could also charge it via standard USB-albeit more slowly. Your HTC charger is getting hot because it wasn't built to self-limit current to prevent damage to itself.

Ah, my bad. I read somewhere that USB devices can start out at 100 mA and then ask for more, but I don't know how I figured it could be as high as several amps >_< thanks for the clarification

mrmark93 said:
USB ports are hardware limited to 500mA. It is part of the specification. Also most USB cables can't handle more current than this without damage. The Nook Color has a special cable with extra pins to handle the ~1900mA that it's charger puts out. The Nook doesn't 'Ask' for more juice, it's charger is capable of more current than a standard USB port, and the cable has the extra pins that carry the extra current. B&N did make it so that you could also charge it via standard USB-albeit more slowly. Your HTC charger is getting hot because it wasn't built to self-limit current to prevent damage to itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really.. most laptop usb ports can handle ~800/900ma just fine. i.e. with my evo, it normally charges at 500ma using a standard microusb cable.. but if I use a special charge-only cable (middle pins are shorted out), then it charges at ~800ma..
-mark

diomark said:
Not really.. most laptop usb ports can handle ~800/900ma just fine. i.e. with my evo, it normally charges at 500ma using a standard microusb cable.. but if I use a special charge-only cable (middle pins are shorted out), then it charges at ~800ma..
-mark
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not surprising:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/3241
What Your Mom Didn't Tell You About USB
With any standard, it's interesting to see how actual practice diverges from the printed spec or how undefined parts of the spec take shape. Though USB is, with little doubt, one of the best thought out, reliable, and useful standards efforts in quite some time, it has not been immune to the impact of the real world. Some observed USB characteristics that may not be obvious, yet can influence power designs, are:
USB ports do NOT limit current. Though the USB spec provides details about how much current a USB port must supply, there are mile-wide limits on how much it might supply. Though the upper limit specifies that the current never exceed 5A, but a wise designer should not rely on that. In any case, a USB port can never be counted on to limit its output current to 500mA, or any amount near that. In fact, output current from a port often exceeds several Amps since multi-port systems (like PCs) frequently have only one protection device for all ports in the system. The protection device is set above the TOTAL power rating of all the ports. So a four-port system may supply over 2A from one port if the other ports are not loaded. Furthermore, while some PCs use 10-20% accurate IC-based protection, other will use much less accurate poly-fuses (fuses that reset themselves) that will not trip until the load is 100% or more above the rating.
USB Ports rarely (never) turn off power: The USB spec is not specific about this, but it is sometimes believed that USB power may be disconnected as a result of failed enumeration, or other software or firmware problems. In actual practice, no USB host shuts off USB power for anything other that an electrical fault (like a short). There may an exception to this statement, but I have yet to see it. Notebook and motherboard makers are barely willing to pay for fault protection, let alone smart power switching. So no matter what dialog takes place (or does not take place) between a USB peripheral and host, 5V (at either 500mA or 100mA, or even maybe 2A or more) will be available. This is born out by the appearance in the market of USB powered reading lights, coffee mug warmers, and other similar items that have no communication capability. They may not be "compliant," but they do function.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I'll echo the fact that while USB as a spec isn't limited though sometimes a computer manufacturers will place a limit on it. MacBook Airs won't put out more than 500ish, for instance. The reason for that, I believe, is because Apple wanted to keep the power brick as small as possible (it's significantly smaller than the MacBook Pro's), which meant that the maximum wattage passing through the brick was limited. Since Apple didn't want the MBA to use more power than it could pull through the cord, it limited the power output of the USB ports. I've never needed more than 500 before I got the NC, so I never really cared (and I still don't).
But it is a thing.

Animec said:
Not surprising:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/3241
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And, for example, some motherboards have a feature that is a perfect example of bending the standards.
http://www.gigabyte.com/microsite/185/on-off-charge.htm
http://semiaccurate.com/2010/04/23/gigabyte-launches-charge-apple-products/

So, the HTC charger charged it from non-booting to full (ish) charge in 3 - 4 hours, and this time it didn't feel particularly hot. Not sure how or why, but this is certainly a relief

Why not just get a new adapter, they're not expensive.
Sent from my NookColor

NookColor USB cable disected

Today I managed to get my NookColor cable caught in my car door while I was getting in my car to head to work. This mangled the cable up pretty good. After much swearing and a trip to Barnes and Nobles I purchased a replacement cable. With the new cable in hand I figured I might as well take the end apart on the broken one to see how it was wired up. Using a pocket knife I forced the joint where the two pieced of plastic are joined together apart. The end result is rather interesting.
The first image is of the top side of the connector. This is where the little LED is located. The second image is of the bottom side of the connector. The third is of the bottom side of the connector with the shield removed.
The interesting thing is that the connector does not actually have the four standard pads for connecting to the normal USB pins in the NC's socket. It only connects to the twelve extra pins at the back of the NC's socket. Two of those extra pins must be for the standard USB communications. At least two more are used for the power connection to the NC. That leaves eight unknown pins. One or two of which probably controls the LED on the cable. As soon as I can find my multimeter, I plan on doing a continuity check between the USB cable wires and the pins in the connector. Any other suggestions of things I should be looking for?

I read in passing that the deeper socket on the nc, that makes regular microUSB cables not charge the nc, relates to the extra contacts needed to charge the bigger battery more quickly. Will try to find the reference-

Regular cables DO charge... At 500mha, the stock rom does not she charging but it does around 10%/hr if idle.

There are certainly several ground pins which should be ready to find. finding those will help narrow it down.
Sent from my NookColor using XDA App

Khaytsus: i stand corrected. Found the reference: barnes& noble 'book clubs' (ie forums) thread on "things that you should know about the NookCOLOR." A non nook color USB won't charge it when in a wall socket, but may keep the battery from at least going down.
Even a NC branded USB isn't officially expected to charge a NC, if plugged into a pc USB port. Neverrtheless, some say it trickle charges when left atrached to a computer all night (like 8hrs). In a wall socket it supposed to charge in 4 -5 hours.
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.

The same thing happened with me too(my cable also broke, and i decided to experiment with it). Here's what i found out.
1. Three wires in the usb cables are solely meant for charging.
2. If only two (ground an one live) wires are connected, the stock cable charges nook like a ordinary usb cable(very slow).
3. The nooks usb cable tip had 3-4 more outputs which were not connected to any wires in the usb cable(they could be anything from mic input to video output).
I was trying to get more info on these extra outputs by soldering some wires to them but it needs very fine soldering, i couldn't achieve that and i broke mine entirely.
That reminds me can anyone send me a extra cable as am not in U.S(so B&N won't send me one) and am sick of waiting for 10 hours before i can play with my nook again.

mjf0000000 said:
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uummm... Don't think this is true as I charged my Nook just last night with it turned off.

I'm sure you have this, but for anyone else who would like to look at the standard USB pinouts.
While I'm on the topic, did the Nova disection help in determining the Nook end of the connections?

the last time i looked, Nova hadn't really looked that close at the USB...they were focusing on the wifi/BT chip.
very nice was planning on doing this myself one day soon...any chance you can go in a bit closer and get clearer pics of the traces on the pcb? Would really help to decipher it.

Interested to see a breakdown of a standard micro usb vs nooks for comparisons sake

A couple of things:
-The NC connector has a row of 12 pins, but does not have any pins that match with the "legacy" microusb pins. At least 4 of the signals on that connector duplicate the microusb pins (gnd, d+, d-, +5). IIRC there are two +5 pins on that row and three grounded pins.
-Hooking only +5 and gnd to the USB end of the stock cable causes the NC to charge at max current draw. I made a short USB interposer that does this. I suppose you could put some carefully applied tape over the middle pins if you wanted to try. Here are some measurements I did of various ways of powering the NC a while back:http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=9410625&postcount=243

mjf0000000 said:
Khaytsus: i stand corrected. Found the reference: barnes& noble 'book clubs' (ie forums) thread on "things that you should know about the NookCOLOR." A non nook color USB won't charge it when in a wall socket, but may keep the battery from at least going down.
Even a NC branded USB isn't officially expected to charge a NC, if plugged into a pc USB port. Neverrtheless, some say it trickle charges when left atrached to a computer all night (like 8hrs). In a wall socket it supposed to charge in 4 -5 hours.
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one interesting finding to note. Most USB wall adapters are 500mA. I happened to have a USB wall adapter that is 1A. With my 1A, I was able not only able to keep the battery from draining, but I was able to replenish it (although it was very slow) As a comparison, the USB adapter from B&N is capable of 2A.

I will try and get closer pics of the PCB when I get home from work. I just need to get better lighting than my dark home office.

[Q] Recharge via Computer USB Port?

I got the 16GB Touchpad few days ago and since i got the one with an american charger i cant charge it yet (till i get the traveler kit).
My actual problem is that it doesn't charge through the USB port too. I left it for like 24-30 hours charging through the USB port (with the cable that came with the touchpad) and when i try to turn it on, it shows me an icon of an empty battery.
Is my usb cable problematic or it just that the touchpad cant charge through the usb port from a PC?
ps: every time i plug the usb it get a message telling "to reliably charge please use the charger and cable that came with this device"

I have the same issue with a 32 GB one. I received it brand new, factory sealed today and it is going back to HP. I called HP, the cable is fine, works with my HTC phone, it's the USB port on the Touchpad, it's loose and losses connection. HP is sending a box with prepaid shipping label and doing a warranty repair.
I really love the Touchpad and I am a bit disappointed with receiving a new device with a loose USB port. HP has great support and I can't wait until I get it back.
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk

Unfortunately thats not an option for me (returning it to touchpad), since i bought it from Ebay (thats the only way possible for me to buy a touchpad from my country).
You had the same issue with the charger plugged in the usb cable as well?

What sort of power source do you use, if not the charger.
I've tried to use a computer, but it does not look like it's charging, but data transfer work.
I tried with an iphone charger, that sort of work. It complains about not getting enough power (iphone charger is 5,0V while the hp charger is 5,2V)
Bottom line. Use the original charger, just buy an us adapter. It works great.
There is another thread here sonewere discussing chargers for non US owners.
Sent from my M9 using Tapatalk

Jon (aka nle) said:
What sort of power source do you use, if not the charger.
I've tried to use a computer, but it does not look like it's charging, but data transfer work.
I tried with an iphone charger, that sort of work. It complains about not getting enough power (iphone charger is 5,0V while the hp charger is 5,2V)
Bottom line. Use the original charger, just buy an us adapter. It works great.
There is another thread here sonewere discussing chargers for non US owners.
Sent from my M9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im trying to charge it through my PC using the original cable that was in the box (tried it in a USB 2.0 port) and im getting the 'try a reliable recharging source like the USB cable and the charger that came with your touchpad'.
I also tried charging it with a 5.0V 200mA phone charger but it didnt work either.
Shouldnt it charge even a bit with the cable? im trying to charge it for 2 days now

Varemenos said:
Unfortunately thats not an option for me (returning it to touchpad), since i bought it from Ebay (thats the only way possible for me to buy a touchpad from my country).
You had the same issue with the charger plugged in the usb cable as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, tried the wall charger, then pc, a different usb cable, all had the same result. When I plugged in I could feel the USB port loose in the Touchpad itself, it had a bit of play and if I played gently on it, it would begin to charge or connect to the pc. When i let go, it disconnected from my pc and then gave me the charging error message. I purchased mine from an e bay store and it has a warranty for 1 year.
I would be happy to help you with yours, if you want to ship it to the US, it has a warranty from the factory. Pm me if you'd like help. I am certain that shipping to and.from US could be costly but I am willing to help.
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk

Mine will only will charge from official HP chargers. This is much like my old iPhone 3g before all the generic manufacturers caught up. I suspect that the voltage and amp requirements are tighter than the USB specification, so it will be a crap shoot if you use non HP chargers.
With that said, HP has 30% off all touchpad accessories right now. Combine it with the cupon SAVE15HP
-W
Sent from my I897 using XDA App

wpp105 said:
With that said, HP has 30% off all touchpad accessories right now. Combine it with the cupon SAVE15HP
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Ya unfortunatelly i could order anything since i dont live in the US/UK regions

Varemenos said:
Ya unfortunatelly i could order anything since i dont live in the US/UK regions
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Don't worry over that, I can get what you need and ship it to you.
Also, in speaking to HP, any USB charger in the US works, they're considered universal.
Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk

you cant charge the touchpad using a computers usb ports. it doesnt draw enough power. the voltage of the charger doesnt really matter, it needs at least 2 amps or it wont charge the touchpad. cell phone chargers usually only draw 1 amp or less and usb ports only .5 amps.

cachookaman said:
you cant charge the touchpad using a computers usb ports. it doesnt draw enough power. the voltage of the charger doesnt really matter, it needs at least 2 amps or it wont charge the touchpad. cell phone chargers usually only draw 1 amp or less and usb ports only .5 amps.
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That is absolutely not the case.
I have only charged mine once with the AC-USB thing and I have been using it since I got it the first day of the sale. I use mine all day long and only charge it occasionally via USB to PC connection. I use the original cable from HP and another one from my Samsung Mythic (work and home).
The message that you get when you plug it in is misleading but normal on a stock TP. However there is a patch in PreWare that changes it to just default to charge and not bug you. Anyone who intends to use this thing at all with WebOS needs to get PreWare installed. In fact, some time spent at precentral.net would benefit any new owners. You will learn A LOT more about these little jewels. I spent a few hours reading stickies and interesting threads and learned a great deal.
If it is really plugged in (and you will know because your PC will tell you) and you get no charge, you have a problem. It should charge on or off while plugged in - mine does.

nunjabusiness said:
That is absolutely not the case.
I have only charged mine once with the AC-USB thing and I have been using it since I got it the first day of the sale. I use mine all day long and only charge it occasionally via USB to PC connection. I use the original cable from HP and another one from my Samsung Mythic (work and home).
The message that you get when you plug it in is misleading but normal on a stock TP. However there is a patch in PreWare that changes it to just default to charge and not bug you. Anyone who intends to use this thing at all with WebOS needs to get PreWare installed. In fact, some time spent at precentral.net would benefit any new owners. You will learn A LOT more about these little jewels. I spent a few hours reading stickies and interesting threads and learned a great deal.
If it is really plugged in (and you will know because your PC will tell you) and you get no charge, you have a problem. It should charge on or off while plugged in - mine does.
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The problem is, its plugged, i get the warning but its not charging at all (while the touchpad is turned out cause its out of battery the past 2 days).

Varemenos said:
The problem is, its plugged, i get the warning but its not charging at all (while the touchpad is turned out cause its out of battery the past 2 days).
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Now to be completely honest - the first charge I made out of the box was with the AC adapter and I left it in overnight like I had been told.
But since then I have never used the AC plug and I have let it get down to about 20% or so but no lower.
It very well may be that from a DEAD state, it requires the extra amps to jump start it, but as long as you have that initial charge it is covered by the lower amperage of the direct USB-to-PC connection. I'm guessing it came with a fair charge and you burned through it without ever plugging it in to the USB.
Bear in mind that not ALL USB ports on a PC are powered the same either. Older USB 1.0 and 1.1 are crap for power. Front or top-mount ones also may not have as much juice as the ones in the back directly off the motherboard. Look at portable hard drives, some come with a double-header cable to use two low-powered ports. I know my top-mount ones will not power my 1TB 2.5-inch drive, but the ones in the back do.
However, I am really surprised you can't pick up a standard plug in USB adapter for your country for a few dollars (equivalent) for wall. Jeez they sell them at the dollar stores here now. I don't know if a car adapter would output enough to do it but that is another idea. If you can get one, you should be able to bring it back easily enough. The 2 amp adapter does charge a lot faster.
---------- Post added at 11:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:53 PM ----------
LOL, I am really in a rare mood as this question has bugged me a little. So I decided to find some straight poop. Here is the best description I have seen anywhere.
http://www.maxim-ic.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/3241
If you don't want to read it, the gist (as I understand it) is:
At 5V, the USB ports in a PC have to be able to source (provide) at least 500 mA (.5 AMP). However, depending on how your motherboard is provisioned (MOSFETs and diodes) that is limited/controlled.
The spec though, does allow as much as 5A to be provided. In fact, 2A is not uncommon if the other ports are not loaded.
So you could try unplugging all your other USB stuff or try another computer's USB ports.

Varemenos said:
Im trying to charge it through my PC using the original cable that was in the box (tried it in a USB 2.0 port) and im getting the 'try a reliable recharging source like the USB cable and the charger that came with your touchpad'.
I also tried charging it with a 5.0V 200mA phone charger but it didnt work either.
Shouldnt it charge even a bit with the cable? im trying to charge it for 2 days now
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Given that the HP charger has a 2A output, odds are that anything much below around 500mA isn't going to charge the device, or at least not at a rate that'll offset the drain while it's running.
The USB ports on laptops often won't supply enough current, particularly if there's other devices on the same bus. If you plug it into a powered USB hub then you should be in business as they should supply more like around 1A generally.

My Touchpad charges from my laptop USB port, however it is slow. I am getting about 8 - 10% charge per hour. The screen needs to be off though, otherwise there is no noticable charging happening.

Mine is not charging with USB laptop at all. Need to use wall charger

I have XRON VB2.8 on my two touchpads and both show battery charging symbol when they are connected to computer via USB and yes the they charge very slow.

FYI, can't remember if WebOS / Govnah tells you what the current amps being used is, but if you are on Android tools like Elixir 2 tell you how many amps you are either discharging (-) or charging (+). So depending on what you are using (wifi, bluetooth, # of widgets, running applications, screen brightness, overclocking, underclocking, etc.) YMMV on whether or not you can charge via usb connected to your computer.
So if you are discharging at a rate of -750 mA connecting to a usb port on your computer will still have you discharging at a rate of -250:
Code:
[COLOR="Red"]-750 mA[/COLOR] + 500 mA = [COLOR="Red"]-250 mA[/COLOR]

mine charges in the usb port, but only if I turn off the screen or turn off the touchpad completely. my ports only provide 500mA, and with the screen off, the touchpad draws about 50mA, so it can charge at about 450mA. With the screen on, it draws about 760mA, so even when it's plugged in the USB, it is discharging at a rate of about (760-500=260mA).