Database Develop

[HARDWARE] Dinc Seamless Wireless Charger stock battery (NO USB STICKING OUT)

>>>>>><<<<<< PDF With All Steps And Images Added For Your Viewing/Downloading Pleasure >>>>>><<<<<<
***If this does not belong here I appologize, and feel free to move this if necessary. I just figured the development community is most likely to take this "upgrade" on***
After seeing that someone used Palm's wireless charger on their non-palm phone; I decided to put one on my Droid Incredible.
***This was done to a completely stock Dinc. I did not use any special back, and the stock back gets to stay on (unlike in the other video that I saw)
Wireless Charging the Droid Incredible
**Disclaimer: This will void your warranty, and if you solder something wrong will probably break your phone. With that said I can in no way be held accountable for anything that occurs while performing this “upgrade” to your phone.
>>>>If anyone knows where I can buy that little void sticker that you will see in a picture below, please let me know! If we can get that sticker then our warranty is not voided by doing this.
Supplies:
1.Palm touchstone charger http://www.shopping.hp.com/product/handheld/categories/palm/4/accessories/FB300AA%23AC3
2.Palm touchstone phone back http://www.shopping.hp.com/store/product/product_detail/FB306AA%23AC3?
3.Micro USB cable
4.Soldering Iron (the finer the tip on this the better)
5.Torx T6 screw driver
6.Safe pry tool (or a small flat head screwdriver)
7.Very tiny insulated wires (I just pulled mine out of a USB cable that I cut up)
8.Electrical Tape
9.[Optional] Multimeter to test that you actually made a good connection
How To (Images are of a higher quality (12mp) so I had to stick them in zip files to get them on here):
1.The palm touchstone phone back has a sticker inside of it that encases the wireless charging receiver, so you need to peel this off. Once it is peeled off it will look like this (without the wires soldered onto it):
(Images can be seen in: Palm Receiver.7z)
2.Remove the battery cover and the battery then unscrew the back from your phone (please view a tare down video for details, there are plenty of them on you tube that I used for a reference.)
1.All you need is a torx t6 screwdriver and a safe pry tool, I used a small flat head screwdriver and it worked just fine. Unscrew the 4 screws around the sides and then carefully pry off every place that the battery cover clips on, as they also hold on the red back.
(Images can be seen in: Dinc Inside.7z)
3.Solder on some wires to the USB connector as shown in the below image without soldering onto the pins next to them. This is difficult and takes some time and patience, since these connectors are very small and close (note the polarity in the image, notated in red).
A.Also it is necessary to place a piece of electrical tape over the components right next to the connector (Green box in the image) as they will short out the power and make it impossible to charge your phone if you do not (I found that out the hard way and went back and fixed it).
B.One final note here is that I had to melt down the red phone backing inside to allow the cables to get past the case. See the green rectangle in the image above for where I had to do that. I just used my soldering iron and melted it down, it makes a pretty nice indention for the wires to fit through.
(Images can be seen in: Dinc USB.7z)
4.Now push out the rubber plug in the red phone backing next to the USB cover (this is encircled in Green in the image from step 2).
A.Run the cables that you just solder on through that so that they are sticking through to the battery compartment on your phone.
B.You can also stick on the palm receiver to the inside of your phone cover (note the direction and placement, as this is necessary to close your cover).
3.Note that I placed electrical tape over the wires. This was necessary to keep them from breaking off of the USB connector since the solder points are so small.
(Images can be seen in: Almost Done.7z)
5.Solder on the wires to the palm charger receiver and you are done. Now you just need to carefully place the wires towards the middle of the phone so that you can close the back of your phone entirely (this is another reason why the wires need to be small).
A.Note the polarity of the connection.
B.Also I put a piece of electrical tape over the connections on the palm charger receiver to protect them (not shown in the image).
(Images can be seen in: Wireless Charger.7z)

Here is a video of the end product and how it works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOMVJ-vmWpg
Also I just verified that my compass is working without any problems.

This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.

ThugEsquire said:
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its been done with the Evo, but don't know anyone who did it with the Inc.
http://www.goodandevo.net/2010/06/h...rk-with-palm-touchstone-wireless-charger.html

Sounds really nice. Not gonna try it with mine because I'm too scared
Though shouldn't this be in accessories or general?

What are you doing to align the coils? My biggest concern that's kept me from this is the magnets also would mess up the compass sensors readings which I for one actually value.
Wow, you managed to bring me out of my months of silence in posting...

I feel honored that I can get you out of your months of silence
The coil alignment is handled by the magnets inside of the palm touchstone charger itself (the base unit that plugs into the wall). The metal objects that you can see in the "Palm Receiver.7z" file are actually not magnets, but small circular pieces of metal that get pulled towards the charger base when you get them close to each other. So when you have the phone off of the charger, there are no magnets to mess with anything
Also you will notice that there is a piece of metal behind the coil, and that seems to block the inductive signal all together (because I tried to put it on backwards to no avail). Therefore your phone is mostly protected from the inductive transmission.
The only thing that I noticed, is that the touchscreen on the phone is a little weird when it is on the charger, but I see the same side effects when plugging the phone into a "non-htc" charger (before performing this "upgrade"). **I also saw this on my Moto Droid when connecting it to a 1 amp charger, and I have seen this with multiple other touchscreen devices so I think it just has something to do with the frequency of the charger.
Also in case of any concerns: MY PHONE HAS IN NO WAY BEEN DAMAGED BY THIS "UPGRADE"

pianoplayer said:
Sounds really nice. Not gonna try it with mine because I'm too scared
Though shouldn't this be in accessories or general?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah, it probably should be, and may get moved (which is perfectly fine by me). I put it in here because I am a developer and much more likely to do this, so I figured the development community would be more interested.

ThugEsquire said:
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mentioned that you can't wait to see more....?
What more would you like to see? I am happy to add to the posts, but just not sure what further details you would like to see.

nevetsvsx said:
Also in case of any concerns: MY PHONE HAS IN NO WAY BEEN DAMAGED BY THIS "UPGRADE"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I trust your method, I just don't trust my shaky hands
BTW there is a multi quote button so you dont have to do a separate post for each reply

I have a rubber case on my Dinc... would I need to remove it for charging?
___________________________________
Yup.... The ones yoe momma told ya about.... Bad Seed Customs!!

I think you will be ok if it is one of those thin (about 1mm thick) rubber cases. Anything thicker than that and you would probably have to install the wireless receiver on the case itself and remove your battery cover all together.
I tested a thin rubber case that I have (no more than 1mm thick I think) that fits a Droid Eris and it charges as long as its flush to the back of my phone.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App

Wow, this is amazing, very well done. I think this is the first hard mod I've heard of for an Android. I guess gold cards were a sorta gray area.

I've had my Incredible modded to work with a Touchstone since around June of last year. It works great, but I must caution anyone thinking of doing this to be VERY careful. Experience with soldering and a steady hand is a must. One could fairly easily mess up their phone attempting to do this.

Could you do this with a powermat if you wanted to? I have a few laying around I could use.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App

Paul600k5 said:
Could you do this with a powermat if you wanted to? I have a few laying around I could use.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, if you wanna take apart one of those generic receivers and try to fit it inside your phone!

nevetsvsx said:
You mentioned that you can't wait to see more....?
What more would you like to see? I am happy to add to the posts, but just not sure what further details you would like to see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I originally meant was pictures. But now that you've added them and I've seen the glory, this mod is really quite impressive and I'm thrilled you shared it with us. But now that I think about it, could this also do USB wirelessly? That would be pretty amazing.

ThugEsquire said:
What I originally meant was pictures. But now that you've added them and I've seen the glory, this mod is really quite impressive and I'm thrilled you shared it with us. But now that I think about it, could this also do USB wirelessly? That would be pretty amazing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the transmission of data wirelessly is achieved through modulated EM waves. This is simple inductance: a changing electric field creates a magnetic field, a changing magnetic field generates an electric field, so a current carrying loop placed near another loop of wire will induce current in the other loop. The receiver in the phone is engineered to "create" the "proper" amount current to charge your battery when combined with the base. In theory yes, but not with this equipment.

How does the phone treat a USB cable being plugged in - will it charge ok, and have your data transfer rates been adversely effected? I wouldn't think so, since you're only touching the power...

Mr. Spontaneous said:
How does the phone treat a USB cable being plugged in - will it charge ok, and have your data transfer rates been adversely effected? I wouldn't think so, since you're only touching the power...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used the USB charger and data transfer cables without any problems at all. Also I have copied some files off of my phone to my PC since the "upgrade" and did not notice any extended times or anything that would remotely make me think something was wrong.
I did not run a speed test before and after to see if anything slowed down, but as you said we are only touching the power pins, so I highly doubt anything has changed.

Home made Stylus for Nook

I've been waiting for week to get my materials to make the home made stylus, finally the most important piece arrived. This took hours to get it to work right. It was a lot easier to get a working stylus for an iPod Touch, but after some tinkering, screaming, sweating and fails I got a pretty good working one. Check out my youtube video (sorry for the bad quality, did on a digital kodak camera very baaad):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujdsEt5zX8I

http://lifehacker.com/5836870/build...n-the-cheap-with-a-ballpoint-pen-and-a-sponge
Here one I read about, don't know if it would work or not though.

I just use a chop stick. Must be hundreds of them floating around my house of different styles, materials, points. Same at work just not so many. I hang on to one for a while, lose/misplace it and it'll take me a day or two to settle on another. No muss no fuss.

Quick question, can you please tell me where you got all the materials?

EverythingNook said:
Quick question, can you please tell me where you got all the materials?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The most important piece, the conductive foam, I got it from ebay. Just search conductive foam, I got a 4" x 4" still have more than half left. I'm thinking that the wire and metal casing are unnecessary, so any pen or pencil casing should do. What I have discovered so far is that the Nook stylus I made requires a large surface, like you see in the video. I wanted it to be really thin at the beginning that's why it didn't work, since the NC screen isn't as responsive as we would all want.
Anyways, the wire I used, I got it from an old coaxial cable (TV cable). Also, I got the idea from this video, which is a lot more instructive than mine...I just wanted to test it in the NC:
http://youtu.be/4YE8rGuLCtU

I think im going to try a sponge before i get conductive foam.

Very nice! Did you tried to slim the tip of conductive foam?
What is the notebook software are you using on the video?

Harlley Sathler said:
Very nice! Did you tried to slim the tip of conductive foam?
What is the notebook software are you using on the video?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At first I was trying to get the tip to be the thinnest possible, so it would mimic a ball point pen, but apparently the LCD in the NC need a bigger surface to respond to touches. I was able to get a thin version working on an iPod Touch 3G no problem. I'm going to try to make a new following the video that inspired me, I just need a more flexible wire to make it. Anyways, the app I used is called Handrite

I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...

Because of curiosity and creativity and inventively spirit?
These are what moves us, geeks, ahead. I did some styli myself and be proud of this.

Crwly said:
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of them dont work very well with the nook.

Crwly said:
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This experiment cost me less than 2 bucks, since I used everyday materials around the house. The only thing I had to buy was the foam, which I still have more than half left, maybe for making more or using them for other stuff like transporting cpus xD
Edit: Oh and you might find the foam in everyday electronics too, like HDD casings, tv remotes, etc. So you could get a working (proven to work on NC) stylus for free.

jgaf said:
This experiment cost me less than 2 bucks, since I used everyday materials around the house. The only thing I had to buy was the foam, which I still have more than half left, maybe for making more or using them for other stuff like transporting cpus xD
Edit: Oh and you might find the foam in everyday electronics too, like HDD casings, tv remotes, etc. So you could get a working (proven to work on NC) stylus for free.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where exactly in remotes, like where the battery goes?

EverythingNook said:
Where exactly in remotes, like where the battery goes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not quite sure I remember reading it somewhere. I have seen some in an external hdd casing, it helps to reduce static
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk

mgs526 said:
http://lifehacker.com/5836870/build...n-the-cheap-with-a-ballpoint-pen-and-a-sponge
Here one I read about, don't know if it would work or not though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it works and it was really easy to make

Yesterday I had my Nook sitting open on my desk, and plugged in my phone.
The cord dragged over the screen of the Nook, and the keyboard happened to be open. Everywhere the cord touched it tapped a letter.
I tried it again with the cord plugged in to AC, but not the phone...and nothing.
Plugged the phone back in, and was able to tap keys again using the cord.
Maybe we could get a battery-operated stylus that just runs power down to the tip .
I'm thinking triple-a battery, small insulated wire down to, then acting as, the tip, and simply return up to the other end of the battery.
No clue if this would be bad for the screen or not, but as long as it's a low level of power, can't see why it would be.
We have some very creative people here who have the skills to not only make something like this happen, but regulate the flow of power through the wire from the battery.
My thought is that since the screen isn't so great for a stylus on the Nook, maybe enhancing the tapping power of the stylus would help.
For anyone who has no clue what they are doing but wants to try anyways, DO NOT use exposed wire, and in any event i'm not responsible for what happens with the use/misuse/abuse of this information.
Any thoughts on this?
ETA:
Maybe a small triple-a flashlight would make a good starting base for this project, a lot of them go real cheap anymore. Just do away with the light itself, and replace it with a wire. You get a switch already built in and all that way.

Blue6IX said:
Text...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was interesting, but I must ask, will a powered stylus perform any better than bought ones or homemade foam ones?

I tried it again with the cord plugged in to AC, but not the phone...and nothing.
Plugged the phone back in, and was able to tap keys again using the cord.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Without the phone, there is no current flow on the cable, and no magnetic field around it, and so, no capacitance distortion.

Harlley Sathler said:
Without the phone, there is no current flow on the cable, and no magnetic field around it, and so, no capacitance distortion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, this I didn't know until I found out by accident. I had always just assumed there was, but now know that unless something is drawing power it's in a static state.
GuTsaV said:
That was interesting, but I must ask, will a powered stylus perform any better than bought ones or homemade foam ones?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is the question that I posed. If no one else is curious enough to find out, i'll get around to this eventually.
I have a handful of pen-light flashlights floating around here, it would be a simple matter to replace the led with a wire and find out.
When I find time to solder one in i'll let you know how it goes. My job is taking up way more time then i'd like in my life at the moment, so who knows when that'll be.

Blue6IX said:
I have a handful of pen-light flashlights floating around here, it would be a simple matter to replace the led with a wire and find out.
When I find time to solder one in i'll let you know how it goes. My job is taking up way more time then i'd like in my life at the moment, so who knows when that'll be.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you replace the LED by a wire, you will get a short-circuit on the batteries, what means that even if it works as a stylus, you will get your batteries hot and discharged very quickly.
Not to say that is dangerous if the batteries get hot!
Another way would be apply the Ohm's Law and calculate a resistor to replace the LED, but I don't know if this idea (a powered stylus) would be an energy efficient circuit...

Fix Broken microUSB Port

So the microUSB port on my Captivate stopped working the other day (can't connect to pc or charge without applying significant pressure in a certain direction) and I'm thinking about fixing it my self.
I'm really just looking for some advice from people who have done this before. What kind of soldering gun should I get (or will the Radio Shack special work)? What kind of soldier should I use? And should I think about buying a new micoUSB port from one of these parts stores?
Thanks in advance!

I wouldn't fix it myself...there is more to it then you think

kusanagisan18 said:
So the microUSB port on my Captivate stopped working the other day (can't connect to pc or charge without applying significant pressure in a certain direction) and I'm thinking about fixing it my self.
I'm really just looking for some advice from people who have done this before. What kind of soldering gun should I get (or will the Radio Shack special work)? What kind of soldier should I use? And should I think about buying a new micoUSB port from one of these parts stores?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd stay away from radioshack soldering irons. I bought a cheap $30 Weller iron and it is way better. The repair is not horribly hard. The worst part is removing the bad one without lifting a pad. I lifted a pad on one I tried fixing and screwed up one of the pads and a tiny bit of the trace. Needless to say I could not fix the tiny damaged trace and sold it off for parts. But the new usb went on without a hitch with some good solder and some desoldering braid.

I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...

chrislj said:
I'd stay away from radioshack soldering irons. I bought a cheap $30 Weller iron and it is way better. The repair is not horribly hard. The worst part is removing the bad one without lifting a pad. I lifted a pad on one I tried fixing and screwed up one of the pads and a tiny bit of the trace. Needless to say I could not fix the tiny damaged trace and sold it off for parts. But the new usb went on without a hitch with some good solder and some desoldering braid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think it's possible to fix it without replacing it? IE Just apply more solder or try to re-solder the current contacts?
connexion2005 said:
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll probably end up using your service if this is over my head, thanks for the link!

kusanagisan18 said:
Do you think it's possible to fix it without replacing it? IE Just apply more solder or try to re-solder the current contacts?
I'll probably end up using your service if this is over my head, thanks for the link!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's virtually NEVER the connection between the leg and pad that is the issue, but rather always the inner connector that touches with the pins on the USB cable itself. So basically no, re-flowing the legs to pads won't do anything. I always ohm through the leg to the pad before replacing them to check if it's an easy fix but that's never the case and the whole connector ends up being replaced...

Download Jig Works But Won't Charge/Connect USB
I think I am having the same problem. I can use a download jig that I got from MobleTech some time ago, but the USB will only connect if I fiddle with the connection and will drop out almost immediately. I first noticed it because the phone was not charging overnight. I was running teamhacksburg ICS and thought I had developed the charge bug, but appears that I might need a new USB connection. Have tried differn't computers with same results. Is it safe to say I need a new USB port for my Captivate or are there some other things I should check. Thanks for the help.

If it's finicky like that then yes almost certainly.

So how would you go about replacing your USB port on your Captivate? or is it not worth trying for most people? One of the pins on my port came loose and got smashed to the outside shell. In trying to bend it back, it broke of course. So now no Download mode from Jig and no computer recognition.

connexion2005 said:
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am having the same problem. Could I get a PM or a link to your repair?

YzRacer said:
I am having the same problem. Could I get a PM or a link to your repair?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could I also get the link?

sebastienhwb said:
Could I also get the link?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never got a PM but I followed the clues over to mobiletechvidoes. Once you add usb repair to your cart and check out you will receive an email about sending in the phone (after an hour or so) and I have just sent one in. It says send the phone without a battery or battery cover and I went ahead and wiped the phone just for safety.

Anyone ever find the link or know how much this costs?

in my sig if i remember correctly it is about $35

I paid $35 and it worked out well for me! Mobiletechvideos.com is where I signed up and they were fast and professional.

Fixed with vice grips
Just did this and slowly applied a little pressure and adjusted for more pressure at the end of the USB metal connection. It's a sturdy fit now and I'm not losing connectivity.

So the fix is to replace the connector altogether? Does anyone have a digikey part # or equivalent?
My issue seems to be that it charges, but I have no data connection. The pins don't need a reflow. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare micro usb cable to splice and check continuity on hand.
Is there any way I can talk with the enumerator chip to make sure it isn't fried, or should I just do the continuity check?

hi
I have the same problem, i searched on sites how to change it your self, but i couldn't find anything

Just check his signature.
http://mobiletechvideos.mybigcommerce.com/
other stuff available from them too. i am a past customer. they saved my cappy

MICRO USB
Anyone else had the USB port become mildly loose (moves back and forth if any pressure is put on the cable)? I believe its on its way out.

[Q] Docking station broken, is it repairable?

Hi,
My made-in-china docking station has just arrived, unfortunately its already been broken (quality material of a matchbox :\),
I have plugged in my micro usb into the socket (female micro usb on the dock) and somehow after few tests the female receiver of the dock fell out.. (I guess it wasn't glued strong enough because I haven't use any extra power to push it in)
Any way.. I have opened it up to see whats going on and found this:
http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/9554/a84p.jpg
The small piece on the left is the female micro usb plugger that was attached to the green board but fell off..
This is a sort of explanation:
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/2971/4wbl.jpg
And thats the part it self:
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/8735/ew44.jpg
Unfortunately I can't glue it back and definately not weld it on since its too tiny and I don't have proper equipment for that..
But I do want to try to fix it because god damn its 1 day old ! totally brand new!
So I was thinking maybe I should simply tear a cable and plug the + - to the red and black wires at the end of that board..
And so, here comes the question for you expert fellers.
First this is the board:
http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/8915/xo1u.jpg
I have a basic knowledge in electricity but its from engineering study and not from real world, so I don't really know how to read this thing..
Perhaps a better intuition than mines will help too..
Is this board necessary? What does it do? and can't it live with out it?
Why they didn't simply plug the + and - straight to the + - pins of the docking points?
Because thats what I am willing to do but I guess that "Ask the experts before you ruin it" is a helpful tip my mom taught me..
Thanks!
Jordan.

its actually soldered, not welded. its not very hard to solder, even tiny parts.
theres still solder on it. you can reflow it with a heat gun... assuming from your post that you have a welder so im guessing you have a heat gun.
just put the part on where its supposed to go, align it, then heat it.
dont get too close and slowly let the heat build, it'll flow at once. try to avoid applying heat to other parts to prevent them from shifting around.
if you are worried theres not enough solder, buy some solder paste and put a little bit on it.
you can check youtube/google for tutorials on reflowing with a heatgun.
if you dont have a heat gun theres other ways but be mindful of the temperatures of the rest of the components, you dont want anything else falling off.
btw, only pins 2 and 3 are necessary, thats power and ground.

Thanks for your reply but I've actually already fixed it,
I didn't soldered (I used Google Translate for that word ) it all,
I simply plugged out the whole board and attatched the two wires to the +- of a usb cable...
It works great.
Sent from my C6603 using xda premium

i think this is not a good idea
you can destroy the phone with this "FIX", if the phone is fully loaded the dock would load further.
In a extremsituation it can flame up
Search for the heatgun and fix it correctly, please

0p3r4t0r said:
i think this is not a good idea
you can destroy the phone with this "FIX", if the phone is fully loaded the dock would load further.
In a extremsituation it can flame up
Search for the heatgun and fix it correctly, please
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah I'm sorry but thats a full of crap..
first you absolutely cant flame up your phone by over charging it.. (where the hell have you ever heard about it?!)
secondly, the system for disconnect when the battery is full is inside the phone and not on the charger..
There are few circuit things for defending on the charger but not that..
And last, I already done it months ago and it wasn't bad at all.. sometimes it didn't charge to 100% or dropped down immediately.. but overall was fine..
I use now a new charger (also chinese crap), this one has the circuit board, I don't really feel anything different..
It charges good now but nothing extra noticeable...

Hey man, sorry i won't flame.
I mean the dock can lightup if you don't connect it correctly (short circuit)
But it's not my so you can do what you want
Sorry for missunderstanding

0p3r4t0r said:
Hey man, sorry i won't flame.
I mean the dock can lightup if you don't connect it correctly (short circuit)
But it's not my so you can do what you want
Sorry for missunderstanding
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest man there isn't enough current running through the USB to do anything nasty to the dock even if it did short circuit. It certainly wouldn't burn and you couldn't shock yourself, worst case scenario, the dock would just stop working.

[Q] Not charging

Hello, my galaxy note has been having some issues, a couple of days ago it would charge with the charger bent down but I decided to play around with the port with a toothpick to look for dust and bend the metal bit in the middle. Now it barely charges at all, I believe the charger bit is fairly cheap but I am not sure if it is very hard to do. I am wondering if I am best off buying a new phone or paying someone to fix it for me? Or just having a go at putting the new piece in myself? I have tried using another charger and the same charger charges other phones.
-Any Help Greatly Appreciated

jeffreymonk said:
Hello, my galaxy note has been having some issues, a couple of days ago it would charge with the charger bent down but I decided to play around with the port with a toothpick to look for dust and bend the metal bit in the middle. Now it barely charges at all, I believe the charger bit is fairly cheap but I am not sure if it is very hard to do. I am wondering if I am best off buying a new phone or paying someone to fix it for me? Or just having a go at putting the new piece in myself? I have tried using another charger and the same charger charges other phones.
-Any Help Greatly Appreciated
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If you are ok using a screwdriver (jewelers type), you won't have any issues. There are countless youtube video's that show the removal procedure on that usb port. Granted, I've been doing electronics for over 40 years, but it's about a 10 minute procedure. One thing I do, with these super tiny screws, is I keep a small magnet handy that is attached to the bottom of a small metal bowl. When I take out a screw, it goes in the bowl, and with the magnetism, it won't get lost that way.
When you replace the USB port, get one that matches the one you remove. Depending on the country you live in, there could be a few different types. They all, will charge your phone, but, if you get the wrong match, the cellular signal you end up with, could be 1/2 of what it should be, so if you are in a low signal area with the one you have now, with the wrong usb board, you could end up with no signal.

p51d007 said:
If you are ok using a screwdriver (jewelers type), you won't have any issues. There are countless youtube video's that show the removal procedure on that usb port. Granted, I've been doing electronics for over 40 years, but it's about a 10 minute procedure. One thing I do, with these super tiny screws, is I keep a small magnet handy that is attached to the bottom of a small metal bowl. When I take out a screw, it goes in the bowl, and with the magnetism, it won't get lost that way.
When you replace the USB port, get one that matches the one you remove. Depending on the country you live in, there could be a few different types. They all, will charge your phone, but, if you get the wrong match, the cellular signal you end up with, could be 1/2 of what it should be, so if you are in a low signal area with the one you have now, with the wrong usb board, you could end up with no signal.
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Thankyou I will have a go at removing it I am a bit unsure of which one to buy so I will have a look around once I take it out, They are fairly cheap aren't they?

jeffreymonk said:
Thankyou I will have a go at removing it I am a bit unsure of which one to buy so I will have a look around once I take it out, They are fairly cheap aren't they?
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Yeah, less than $10(USD). Last one I got was like 8.95 or something.