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I'm having an issue,and seems not just me,that I can't charge the Tab via usb connected on a laptop or a Mac book (pro).
I'm wondering if its firmware related, I've tried JID and JI6 same issue.
Are you guys having the same?
If someone is not having this problem can please be so nice to tell me the firmware version?
Thanks
no, you cannot charge the tab from a PC usb slot cause of some minimum power requirements which was the same way with ipad
chowdarygm said:
no, you cannot charge the tab from a PC usb slot cause of some minimum power requirements which was the same way with ipad
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No is not the same than ipad, ipad is possible to recharge with new macs (that what apple says on the web site, the don't say how new though). But is true the iPad has 2A battery versus the Galaxy Tab that has 4000mAh, I was hoping that there was a way to recharge it (slowly but at least to keep it alive when is connect)
zerocool76 said:
No is not the same than ipad, ipad is possible to recharge with new macs (that what apple says on the web site, the don't say how new though). But is true the iPad has 2A battery versus the Galaxy Tab that has 4000mAh, I was hoping that there was a way to recharge it (slowly but at least to keep it alive when is connect)
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no idea on that. i didn't keep my tab connected so long to pc but whenever i connect it to pc it shows on battery with cross mark on charging symbol. may be will test it this weekend
charging
hi guys,
mine is also showing the non-charging-sign but it charges slowly - get juice plotter and try it your self
Can I recharge the Tab in the car sigarette ligther socket with USB adapter?
Portos61 said:
Can I recharge the Tab in the car sigarette ligther socket with USB adapter?
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check this out, they have the adaptor for cigarette...
http://www.thinkgalaxytab.com/universal.html
I found the link above on google, but I've seen other around the web.So I think you can
hipath said:
hi guys,
mine is also showing the non-charging-sign but it charges slowly - get juice plotter and try it your self
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Click to collapse
Mine is the same guys... I left my AC charger at work over the weekend and have been charging it via USB the whole time... Slow but it gets there if you leave it on over night!
Mine won't charge unless I use the power adapter from Samsung
Mine does charge but slowly from USB.... you should also know that different PC boards and laptops have different power outputs.... in most cases, your tab should charge very slowly on USB power. Mine charges and has BT and Wifi on also... but with heavy use and plugged in to my laptop, it may offset and drain ever so slightly....
Same thing goes for car chargers... if not rated for higher output, it will charge VERY slowly. The original Samsung car charger has a much higher power output. If you can find one that has the same aftermarket USB car adaptor for Ipad charging, that should work too
eskasi said:
The original Samsung car charger has a much higher power output.
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Indeed (yet it is very compact and doesn't get hot).
Related discussion here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=9172163#post9172163
I tried my iPad charger - output rating looks to be the same - but it didn't work very well.
brucewilsonpa said:
I tried my iPad charger - output rating looks to be the same - but it didn't work very well.
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The contacts on mine are upside down compared to an iPad/iPod/iPhone charger. The blade on which the contacts sit is also higher in the charger slot than an iPad charger. How did you get it to fit without breaking something?
Some PC:s (motherboards) have so weak power output via USB, that they just barely provide a mouse and a keyboard but nothing more.
So anyone should not expect it to be enough for charging Tab.
Tab's own power supply gives 2 Amps out!
My experience about car-usb-adapters: one can charge Tab, other quite similar for some reason not. However, both charge Galxy S fine.
Just something to keep in mind as an option... Usb 3.0 will give more juice to usb cables than current usb ports. Apple has "cheated" and already increased the power to the regular usb ports on their newer laptops on par/better with usb 3.. So... If you get usb 3 cards installed you'll have a port with enough amps to charge the tab. Easier/cheaper to just buy a pdmi cable but if you are about to upgrade to usb 3 its more incentive to do so.
Sent from my SCH-I800 using XDA App
Regarding the ipad charging you can use the below link to to download an ASUS program that will boost the USB power for Windows this works for the ipad and it's showing as charging when connected to my PC this may also work for galaxy tab
http dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/utils/AiCharger_V10006_XpVistaWin7.zip
Charging using usb on my mbp does take a long time. I timed it and it took at least 6 hours to charge from completely empty to full. Its ok since I plug it in when I'm about to go asleep and by the time I'm up its fully charged.
essahar said:
Regarding the ipad charging you can use the below link to to download an ASUS program that will boost the USB power for Windows this works for the ipad and it's showing as charging when connected to my PC this may also work for galaxy tab
http dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/misc/utils/AiCharger_V10006_XpVistaWin7.zip
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Careful with that.
Seems it has the not-uncommon tendency to screw up USB drivers to the point that mice and keyboards won't work either, especially on Win7 and Vista X64 machines. It got me, had to do a system restore to fix it. Neat idea though.
pdiddypdiddypdiddy said:
Apple has "cheated" and already increased the power to the regular usb ports on their newer laptops on par/better with usb 3.
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USB port should give at least 500mA. But anything more is OK. So Apple can make their USB ports to give anything over 500mA and it is well within the standard. Actually it is good for everyone because if Apple port can give 2A you can use non powered hubs and have power for lots of USB devices.
Actually the Tab charges fine (albeit slowly) from a USB, you just have to be aware of a few things. Firstly as mentioned above some USB ports provide more power than others. Try the different ports on your machine and you'll soon figure out which ones work best. Secondly, while the Tab will display the "Connect your charger" message, it is actually charging. Go into Settings, About Phone, Status and watch the battery level. It'll take a while but will creep up. Finally, it charges faster when the Tab is switched off. ie: if you're actually using it, you won't get a charge, if you have it in standby with screen off, it'll charge slowly (takes most of a day for a full charge) and if the Tab is switched off, it'll go a lot faster (though still not as fast as with the power adapter.)
This is good to know as you can plug it in to your computer and let it set on your desk at work all day and know that it is slowly trickle charging.
I also found that plugging the USB cable into an Apple adapter (from an iPhone) brought up the same "Connect your charger" message, but did charge the Tab, faster than a USb but not as well as my samsung plug.
Just reading up on USB chargers, and I found somewhere in a thread here about phones defaulting to smaller ma when charging via USB if the connector didn't have the data pins shorted or something.
So, I was wondering a couple of things:
1) If the default charger supplies 700ma, do you think that is the most the Nexus S can draw? Does anyone have one of these shorted USB chargers? Does it charge the NS faster?
2) If it does charge faster, how hard would it be to do something similar to shorting the data connections? I have a generic AC-USB cable which I currently use for my iPod touch.
3) Is there a way to check if it is already shorted out? The USB charging port looks similar to ones on my computer, but I'm not sure what to look for.
Thanks for any help! Maybe if we can sort out this stuff, we can provide a solution for those looking for faster charging!
it does work safely, i'm using a 1000 mAh charger at home, and a 2000 mAh charger in the car both are from aftermarket eBay/DealExtreme charges.
no overheating
and charges faster than stock
AllGamer said:
it does work safely, i'm using a 1000 mAh charger at home, and a 2000 mAh charger in the car both are from aftermarket eBay/DealExtreme charges.
no overheating
and charges faster than stock
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Ok thankyou for that AllGamer, I'll think of possible ways I could mod the charger now
The only reason it is slow is because of the USB charging brick instead of just a charger.
Sent from my Nexus S using XDA App
I know it's a wrong thread, but anyone has any pointers as to how to short a regular USB cable to make the phone think it's a power adapter cable?
XBOHDPuKC said:
I know it's a wrong thread, but anyone has any pointers as to how to short a regular USB cable to make the phone think it's a power adapter cable?
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Nah it's not the wrong thread that was one of my questions! I'm not sure exactly where you would do it, but maybe if you skinned the wire, then cut the data lines it would work?
Not sure which end you would do it on however, but that may not matter. Any other ideas?
The two center pins in the USB carry the data. If you pull them out, the cable won't be able to connect to the computer.
Sent from my Nexus S
Wow - you don't need to do this and you wouldn't want to in a computer anyway.
The USB specification says that 500ma (@ 5v) of current should be available from a computer's USB port. Of course, the actual wires can carry much more than this, so manufacturers can tell their phones to takes as much current as is offered.
Almost all computers limit their USB power output accordingly - this is why some opld usb-powered external hard drives needed 2 USB plugs to get enough power. The only computers that I am SURE emit significantly more than 500ma on their USB ports are first and second generation MacBook Airs.
Some phones, the N1 and every other HTC specifically, look for a specially shorted cable to "know if they are plugged into the wall adaptor" as opposed to a computer USB port. In reality, this is just a way to make you specifically buy HTC chargers as opposed to third-party off-brands, because plugging one of these phones into an off brand charger will limit the current draw to about 450ma.
If you want to know if your Android phone thinks that it is in "USB" mode or in "AC" mode, just plug the phone in, open the dialer, enter *#*#4636#*#* and then select battery info. If your phone is one that cares (not all do), it will say USB if it thinks it should be in USB charging mode, or AC if it thinks it should be in AC charging mode.
I would not try shorting out the middle pins in a cable and then plugging it into the computer. First, most will probably just disable the USB port completely, shutting off even power you could draw. Second, if it doesn't shut down, you run the risk that a badly-built USB port might not properly limit the current to 500ma - and since they are not designed to furnish more current than that, you might melt something expensive or start a fire. third, if you make a mistake, you risk shorting out either your phone or your computer, which might ruin your day, week or month, depending on your financial means to replace the system that cooks itself.
I would just run out to your local store, pay 15 bucks for a 2A third-party usb charger brick, and go to town. That will work perfectly - this is what I use, and it probably cuts the charge time by 30-40%. Obviously, this indicates that the NS is not capable of drawing a full 2A - I have not put a meter on it, but I would bet that it limits itself to somewhere just under an amp in.
I have recently bought both a 2A wall charger and car charger and my phone does not recognise either of these as anything more than a 500mA source.
Is it really just a case of opening the car charger up and shorting out pins 2 & 3? they are currently not connected to anything in the charger.
If it's indeed a matter of shorting the data lines, then I think you can skin the wire as suggested by others, but then cut the data lines, short the end that leads to the phone, leave the end to the computer open. I think it's the phone that tries to determine whether the data lines are shorted.
Edit: Can someone measure the continuity between the data pins with the stock charger? I wonder if they are shorted. I'm still waiting for my Nexus S to arrive, so can't test it.
Yup, the data lines in the stock Nexus S charger ARE shorted.
I just modified a cheap 1A car charger by popping it open, soldering the 2 data lines together and putting it back.
The report on the Nexus S before I did this (*#*#4636#*#*) said "USB", and afterwards it now says "AC".
I will report back after I make a road trip if this improves the GPS + Pandora + Screen in car situation. I suspect it will.
----------------
Yup, the car charger seemed to actually maintain and increase the battery this time. Seems good.
The NS supports chargers output to a max of 1000mA, as it says on the back of it, where the battery resides.
Hi!
I just got my Nook and when I was about to charge it I realised I've lost my adapter for US plugs. Charging from the USB port on my computer is ridiculously slow, even with the Nook's USB/charger cable, and plugging it into my HTC charger makes that charger disconcertingly hot.
I reckon my computer's USB ports should be able to manage to provide at least a couple of amps, but, if I've understood things correctly, it won't provide anywhere near that much to the Nook unless the Nook asks for it.
So, is there any way to make the Nook ask for more juice?
Thanks in advance!
-- P
Animec said:
Hi!
I just got my Nook and when I was about to charge it I realised I've lost my adapter for US plugs. Charging from the USB port on my computer is ridiculously slow, even with the Nook's USB/charger cable, and plugging it into my HTC charger makes that charger disconcertingly hot.
I reckon my computer's USB ports should be able to manage to provide at least a couple of amps, but, if I've understood things correctly, it won't provide anywhere near that much to the Nook unless the Nook asks for it.
So, is there any way to make the Nook ask for more juice?
Thanks in advance!
-- P
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Click to collapse
USB ports are hardware limited to 500mA. It is part of the specification. Also most USB cables can't handle more current than this without damage. The Nook Color has a special cable with extra pins to handle the ~1900mA that it's charger puts out. The Nook doesn't 'Ask' for more juice, it's charger is capable of more current than a standard USB port, and the cable has the extra pins that carry the extra current. B&N did make it so that you could also charge it via standard USB-albeit more slowly. Your HTC charger is getting hot because it wasn't built to self-limit current to prevent damage to itself.
Ah, my bad. I read somewhere that USB devices can start out at 100 mA and then ask for more, but I don't know how I figured it could be as high as several amps >_< thanks for the clarification
mrmark93 said:
USB ports are hardware limited to 500mA. It is part of the specification. Also most USB cables can't handle more current than this without damage. The Nook Color has a special cable with extra pins to handle the ~1900mA that it's charger puts out. The Nook doesn't 'Ask' for more juice, it's charger is capable of more current than a standard USB port, and the cable has the extra pins that carry the extra current. B&N did make it so that you could also charge it via standard USB-albeit more slowly. Your HTC charger is getting hot because it wasn't built to self-limit current to prevent damage to itself.
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Not really.. most laptop usb ports can handle ~800/900ma just fine. i.e. with my evo, it normally charges at 500ma using a standard microusb cable.. but if I use a special charge-only cable (middle pins are shorted out), then it charges at ~800ma..
-mark
diomark said:
Not really.. most laptop usb ports can handle ~800/900ma just fine. i.e. with my evo, it normally charges at 500ma using a standard microusb cable.. but if I use a special charge-only cable (middle pins are shorted out), then it charges at ~800ma..
-mark
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Not surprising:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/3241
What Your Mom Didn't Tell You About USB
With any standard, it's interesting to see how actual practice diverges from the printed spec or how undefined parts of the spec take shape. Though USB is, with little doubt, one of the best thought out, reliable, and useful standards efforts in quite some time, it has not been immune to the impact of the real world. Some observed USB characteristics that may not be obvious, yet can influence power designs, are:
USB ports do NOT limit current. Though the USB spec provides details about how much current a USB port must supply, there are mile-wide limits on how much it might supply. Though the upper limit specifies that the current never exceed 5A, but a wise designer should not rely on that. In any case, a USB port can never be counted on to limit its output current to 500mA, or any amount near that. In fact, output current from a port often exceeds several Amps since multi-port systems (like PCs) frequently have only one protection device for all ports in the system. The protection device is set above the TOTAL power rating of all the ports. So a four-port system may supply over 2A from one port if the other ports are not loaded. Furthermore, while some PCs use 10-20% accurate IC-based protection, other will use much less accurate poly-fuses (fuses that reset themselves) that will not trip until the load is 100% or more above the rating.
USB Ports rarely (never) turn off power: The USB spec is not specific about this, but it is sometimes believed that USB power may be disconnected as a result of failed enumeration, or other software or firmware problems. In actual practice, no USB host shuts off USB power for anything other that an electrical fault (like a short). There may an exception to this statement, but I have yet to see it. Notebook and motherboard makers are barely willing to pay for fault protection, let alone smart power switching. So no matter what dialog takes place (or does not take place) between a USB peripheral and host, 5V (at either 500mA or 100mA, or even maybe 2A or more) will be available. This is born out by the appearance in the market of USB powered reading lights, coffee mug warmers, and other similar items that have no communication capability. They may not be "compliant," but they do function.
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I'll echo the fact that while USB as a spec isn't limited though sometimes a computer manufacturers will place a limit on it. MacBook Airs won't put out more than 500ish, for instance. The reason for that, I believe, is because Apple wanted to keep the power brick as small as possible (it's significantly smaller than the MacBook Pro's), which meant that the maximum wattage passing through the brick was limited. Since Apple didn't want the MBA to use more power than it could pull through the cord, it limited the power output of the USB ports. I've never needed more than 500 before I got the NC, so I never really cared (and I still don't).
But it is a thing.
Animec said:
Not surprising:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/3241
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Click to collapse
And, for example, some motherboards have a feature that is a perfect example of bending the standards.
http://www.gigabyte.com/microsite/185/on-off-charge.htm
http://semiaccurate.com/2010/04/23/gigabyte-launches-charge-apple-products/
So, the HTC charger charged it from non-booting to full (ish) charge in 3 - 4 hours, and this time it didn't feel particularly hot. Not sure how or why, but this is certainly a relief
Why not just get a new adapter, they're not expensive.
Sent from my NookColor
Hi!
I am building a special car charger for my galaxy s.
I put the 5V to MicroUSB VCC and also GND...
The phone is charging.
Here the problem:
I'm using tasker app to detect many phone states and automatically switch some features when pluging in some devices. I noticed that the normal galaxy s charger is detected as normal power supply. My method with just VCC=5V makes the phone think that there is a usb cable on it. So it says: Charging with USB power.
I started thinking about how the normal power supply tells the phone that it is no USB. First I thought of the 5th pin (pin 4: ID) on the micro USB connector. Later I noticed that it seems that the normal charger does not has this pin. So it should be open circuit like I have on my charger...
Does anybody know what the normal charger does to tell the phone it is a normal charger?
Additional story:
I found another usb device with micro usb which is charging with the normal charger only! With normal usb cable it is not possible to charge it. Right now I can't charge this device with my car adaptor.
What sets the charging type is the resistance between the data pins. USB charging will be limited to about 500mA, a plain charger can deliver more current, thus reducing charge time. Somewhere on XDA resistor values are listed for various modes but this site has a really bad search engine.
rogem_kk said:
... but this site has a really bad search engine.
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you are right!
normally nobody dares to say something bad about this site. Don't get me wrong... The information and the community is awesome but the search engine is awful.
But google works still OK
Refer to the thread: Click and look for post 60 to start from there are some interesting conclusions, e.g. in post 71 as well...
Not long had this tablet but I have tried 3 ifferent power banks to charge this with no success.
I know there are problems as the Samsung has detection built in which wont allow a lot of other brands to charge it.
I have 3 standard mains Samsung chargers from another tablet and phone plus the original that came with this. Original rated 5v 2amp, other 2 rated 5.3v 2amp. All work fine.
I have an anker 13000mh power bank (2amp output) that charges my s5 phone at 1200mh at super fast speed, it also powered my old tab s 10.5 fast. It will not power this model at all due to the tab detecting it.
Also have 2 beefy jbl charge speakers which can charge anything at 2amps but not this tab at all.
Has anybody found a power bank that works with the T813 ?
Don't care if it has to be Samsung made I just need one that works.
Workaround
Well I sort of have a fix.
I tried about 10 USB cables I had lying around, from other devices such as Xbox one, phones, tablets, speakers, power bank etc.
None of these worked in my anker power bank apart from one.
This is a cable about 6 inch long and it came supplied with a free phone 1a power charger from EE / Orange.
So not ideal but at least I can use the power bank with this device albeit a very short cable.
I have tried to find another cable like this but with no luck, so when this one breaks I'm probably screwed using a power bank unless I pay well over the odds for a Samsung made one if I can find one.
I did try and butcher an old USB cable and tried variations of shorting the data pins, with and without a 10ohm resister but no luck there.
If anyone knows what the difference in these cables is or could give me a pointer as to where I may get one (as long as I know what I'm looking for) it would be greatly appreciated.
As it stands the tests I did on the standard charger and original Samsung cable using an amp meter app I was getting between 1000 and 1500 mA
I was getting pretty similar input from a fully charged anker 5v 2A power bank using this certain USB cable.