[Q] CyanogenMod & Bluetooth Effective Range - Nook Color General

I have poked around and I know that the Bluetooth range seems extremely limited (perhaps 1ft) once BT is enabled in CyanogenMod. Has a root-cause for this short range been determined? For example, I'd happily solder a wire onto the motherboard if that's a known solution for the poor range.
I seem to recall that Bluetooth can vary the transmitter's power output, to preserver battery life. Perhaps the driver has a setting to "max" the transmission strength.
PS: I have to say, I'd never have kept my NookColor (that is, back to Best Buy) without these excellent kernel options. Everyone's work is much appreciated. Thanks!

well my experience has been (with both BT gps and headset) more than 1 feet - in the case of my headset - up to 4 feet before it cuts out. with the gps 2 feet
now the one issue i have is if i disconnect a peripheral, it is difficult to reconnect the peripheral often have to reboot the nook to reconnect with the peripheral
wpscully said:
I have poked around and I know that the Bluetooth range seems extremely limited (perhaps 1ft) once BT is enabled in CyanogenMod. Has a root-cause for this short range been determined? For example, I'd happily solder a wire onto the motherboard if that's a known solution for the poor range.
I seem to recall that Bluetooth can vary the transmitter's power output, to preserver battery life. Perhaps the driver has a setting to "max" the transmission strength.
PS: I have to say, I'd never have kept my NookColor (that is, back to Best Buy) without these excellent kernel options. Everyone's work is much appreciated. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

It's not been figured out, but I read in a breakdown thread that the chip was hooked up correctly and it wasn't a hardware problem.

From what I know, it's because the Wifi and bluetooth are on the same chip and share a single antenna. Most of the time, they have two antennas (this is not first hand info, I read this somewhere over on the CM7 forums)
As for bluetooth range, it sure seems its dependent on the item. For example, some keyboards have been REPORTED to work 10+ feet away, while most headsets seem to range in the 2-3 foot range.

Headset question
I have a question about headphones. I can get mine paired but not connected. They show up correct in the listed devices but i cannot get them to work with pandora. Music streams from the speaker. Any hints or suggestions on how to rectify.
Thanks to all on this forum.

chisleu said:
It's not been figured out, but I read in a breakdown thread that the chip was hooked up correctly and it wasn't a hardware problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have cyfi, DR-BT21G, Motorola Bluetooth Wireless Keyboard, and Motorola S305 paired.
All but the keyboard are listed as headphones. the cyfi is a wireless sports speaker. The cyfi comes with an attachment that allows it to securely attached to your bike. I got it from woot. The item was originally $150 got on close out from woot for $40.
The keyboard I tried at horizon and have it on order from walmart. I am using a white 3 3/4" plate/photo holder from JoAnn's fabric as my stand. I don't remember the keyboad's range will edit when it comes in.
The cyfi, sony DR-BT21G, and Motorola 305 range is 13" or less with good results found when about 2" or less from the nook color. Thus the only useable devices are the cyfi and keyboard.
Using the cyfi with flash video from cm7 flash 10.2, two interesting things happen. First with bluetooth from the cyfi the flash video plays at full hardware speeds. Second if we have a slower connection the download/buffering indicator occurs more frequently when using the bluetooth cyfi for audio. Turn bluetooth off the flash video loads/buffers normally. Reconnect the bluetooth and it load/buffers again.

lschroeder said:
Using the cyfi with flash video from cm7 flash 10.2, two interesting things happen. First with bluetooth from the cyfi the flash video plays at full hardware speeds. Second if we have a slower connection the download/buffering indicator occurs more frequently when using the bluetooth cyfi for audio. Turn bluetooth off the flash video loads/buffers normally. Reconnect the bluetooth and it load/buffers again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is interesting indeed. Maybe the wifi has something to do with my keyboard being disconnected constantly...

Related

Bluetooth audio madness - am I asking for too much?

Hi all,
I've just bought my first HTC unit ever (Kaiser), which is also my first Windows Mobile Phone (I used PocketPCs since 2001 but with no integrated phone so far), and it seems to have a lot of issues in the areas of "regular phone" functionality.
However, the one that is really freaking me out so far is the whole "Bluetooth audio" area. I'm just wondering whether I would ever be able to get what I want or am I asking too much.
I have 3 Bluetooth audio devices, all of them are dual Headset/Headphone ones: in-car fixed Motorola T605, Jabra BT8010 and Plantronics 590. Now, naturally, I want to use the T605 in the car, Jabra for phone calls only throughout the day and for music occasionally, and Plantronics when I'm in the gym, for both music and occasional incoming phone calls.
I had all this working flawlessly with my SonyEricsson K800i phone: each device connected to the phone automatically when powered up and automatically took over both Headset and Headphone functions. The only minor problem was reconnecting Jabra when stepping out of the car, which required only a short tap on the button.
Now, with Kaiser, things are much more complicated. When a device (any of them) is connected to the phone, both as Headset and Headphones, it works mostly OK, although sometimes there is a problem of sound not coming through the device when an incoming call was answered while playing music. The music is suspended OK, but the sound comes from the phone speaker instead of the respective Bluetooth device. This happens from time to time, not always.
But the biggest problem is the initial connection of a device after another one has already been connected. When I enter my car and fire up the engine, I want the T605 to automatically connect to the phone even if Jabra has already been connected. This I was unable to achieve. Instead, I have to manually disconnect Jabra (by powering it off or temporarily powering off Bluetooth on the phone) and then manually connect the phone with the T605, for both Headset and Wireless Music (two actions required!). Now, for me, this is unacceptable.
Moreover, when I arrive to a destination and want to step out of the car, I have to manually reconnect my Jabra to the Kaiser, again, through the phone’s Bluetooth settings as described above. A short tap on Jabra’s button no longer works for this purpose, in opposite to SE K800i.
Making the long story short, this is completely unacceptable behavior for me, and I haven’t found so far a way to make it the way I need it.
Any advices?
mpogr said:
Hi all,
I've just bought my first HTC unit ever (Kaiser), which is also my first Windows Mobile Phone (I used PocketPCs since 2001 but with no integrated phone so far), and it seems to have a lot of issues in the areas of "regular phone" functionality.
However, the one that is really freaking me out so far is the whole "Bluetooth audio" area. I'm just wondering whether I would ever be able to get what I want or am I asking too much.
I have 3 Bluetooth audio devices, all of them are dual Headset/Headphone ones: in-car fixed Motorola T605, Jabra BT8010 and Plantronics 590. Now, naturally, I want to use the T605 in the car, Jabra for phone calls only throughout the day and for music occasionally, and Plantronics when I'm in the gym, for both music and occasional incoming phone calls.
I had all this working flawlessly with my SonyEricsson K800i phone: each device connected to the phone automatically when powered up and automatically took over both Headset and Headphone functions. The only minor problem was reconnecting Jabra when stepping out of the car, which required only a short tap on the button.
Now, with Kaiser, things are much more complicated. When a device (any of them) is connected to the phone, both as Headset and Headphones, it works mostly OK, although sometimes there is a problem of sound not coming through the device when an incoming call was answered while playing music. The music is suspended OK, but the sound comes from the phone speaker instead of the respective Bluetooth device. This happens from time to time, not always.
But the biggest problem is the initial connection of a device after another one has already been connected. When I enter my car and fire up the engine, I want the T605 to automatically connect to the phone even if Jabra has already been connected. This I was unable to achieve. Instead, I have to manually disconnect Jabra (by powering it off or temporarily powering off Bluetooth on the phone) and then manually connect the phone with the T605, for both Headset and Wireless Music (two actions required!). Now, for me, this is unacceptable.
Moreover, when I arrive to a destination and want to step out of the car, I have to manually reconnect my Jabra to the Kaiser, again, through the phone’s Bluetooth settings as described above. A short tap on Jabra’s button no longer works for this purpose, in opposite to SE K800i.
Making the long story short, this is completely unacceptable behavior for me, and I haven’t found so far a way to make it the way I need it.
Any advices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried the Bluetooth fix on HTC's website?
Asking is easy, searching is hard work for some people it seems. No offence..
I'm using Schap's ROM which is supposed to have this fix built-in.
mpogr said:
I'm using Schap's ROM which is supposed to have this fix built-in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh. didn't see that in your first post..
I think you are suffering the same prob as many. Every time a BT device comes out, it never seems to work with what we had before. BT protocols are NOT fixed (The IEEE STILL have not fully implemented a specific proto!), they change faster than we change our devices.
As I said before (without meaning any offence) search the whole forum, many threads have been out on this subject and some advice/fixes or equipment references are out there.
Well, I did search these forums and haven't seen someone referring to the same kind of problems I'm having.
Now, regarding your comment about variety of BT devices... I don't buy that. My SE K800i is 1 year old and works perfectly with this combination of devices.
I have pretty extensive experience with Broadcom/Widcomm BT stack on PC and older models of PocketPC (the one I have is IPAQ 5555) and I suspect these foes are direct derivatives from the fact Kaiser uses MS BT stack, which is much inferior. However, it seems nobody was able to make Broadcom/Widcomm stack work on Kaiser so far...
mpogr said:
Well, I did search these forums and haven't seen someone referring to the same kind of problems I'm having.
Now, regarding your comment about variety of BT devices... I don't buy that. My SE K800i is 1 year old and works perfectly with this combination of devices.
I have pretty extensive experience with Broadcom/Widcomm BT stack on PC and older models of PocketPC (the one I have is IPAQ 5555) and I suspect these foes are direct derivatives from the fact Kaiser uses MS BT stack, which is much inferior. However, it seems nobody was able to make Broadcom/Widcomm stack work on Kaiser so far...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, I'm sorry if you don't. I only tried to help. Seem's you've asked a question and have already formed an opinion to it!!!
I have personal experience of Sony's proprietory connection limitations.
My BT works fine on all my devices....will leave you to others.
Looks like I found a partial solution which makes my life almost perfect...
It seems the real problem is taking over Kaiser from a previously connected device. So, if I switch my Jabra off several seconds before I fire up my car's engine, my T605 is able to connect to it. Same goes the other way around, I can turn off the car engine and then fire up the Jabra several seconds later. In this case all is good.
Looks like the MS BT stack is still ill-implemented though, as, for example, when in active Wireless Music BT connection, the device is unable to discover any other Bluetooth devices or to connect to other device's BT serial interface, which makes using external GPS devices difficult.
This could be a problem for me since my car (Citroen C5) has special anti-radiation coating on its windshield which quite effectively screens the satellite signals. Therefore I came up with a solution of having a BT GPS device permanently located in the car (actually, in the driver's seat back pocket) hardwired to the mains as well as to an external GPS antenna. This setup is effectively beating both reception and start-up time problems.
With Kaiser’s limitation on simultaneous BT connections I’m unable to use this setup anymore. Yes, I could bypass using an additional GPS device by connecting the external antenna to Kaiser’s internal GPS, but this looks like a cumbersome solution as I couldn’t find a Kaiser-compatible mounting with a socket for hardwiring an external GPS antenna.
Luckily for me, I still have my old IPAQ loaded with GPS software which I prefer to use for navigation anyway thanks to its significantly bigger screen
mpogr said:
Looks like I found a partial solution which makes my life almost perfect...
It seems the real problem is taking over Kaiser from a previously connected device. So, if I switch my Jabra off several seconds before I fire up my car's engine, my T605 is able to connect to it. Same goes the other way around, I can turn off the car engine and then fire up the Jabra several seconds later. In this case all is good.
Looks like the MS BT stack is still ill-implemented though, as, for example, when in active Wireless Music BT connection, the device is unable to discover any other Bluetooth devices or to connect to other device's BT serial interface, which makes using external GPS devices difficult.
This could be a problem for me since my car (Citroen C5) has special anti-radiation coating on its windshield which quite effectively screens the satellite signals. Therefore I came up with a solution of having a BT GPS device permanently located in the car (actually, in the driver's seat back pocket) hardwired to the mains as well as to an external GPS antenna. This setup is effectively beating both reception and start-up time problems.
With Kaiser’s limitation on simultaneous BT connections I’m unable to use this setup anymore. Yes, I could bypass using an additional GPS device by connecting the external antenna to Kaiser’s internal GPS, but this looks like a cumbersome solution as I couldn’t find a Kaiser-compatible mounting with a socket for hardwiring an external GPS antenna.
Luckily for me, I still have my old IPAQ loaded with GPS software which I prefer to use for navigation anyway thanks to its significantly bigger screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to here you have a resolution (albeit a partial one).
Just one thing, why would you want to connect to an external BT GPS at the same time as your car kit? Can't you get a good enough signal on the internal GPS or is there another reason?
Farsquidge said:
...Can't you get a good enough signal on the internal GPS...?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that's what I wrote in my post above. This antiradiation coating is a real satellite signal killer...
But, IMO, Kaiser's screen is too small for in-car navigation anyway, so having a dedicated unit is always a plus
mpogr said:
Yes, that's what I wrote in my post above. This antiradiation coating is a real satellite signal killer...
But, IMO, Kaiser's screen is too small for in-car navigation anyway, so having a dedicated unit is always a plus
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, blind AND stupid!
Yes I agree the screen is too small for general use. I have a dedicated GPS in the car and only use the TyTnII as a temporary routefinder whenever needed.

Bluetooth range drops to inches with wifi enabled

I dont know how long this has been happining because up to 2 days ago I dident use any bluetooth devices with my phone but I just found out yesterday I was having a problem and after hours of searching and narrowing the problem down I finnaly found that enabling wifi caused my bluetooth range to drop to just a cople inches.
The reason I need wifi is that I dont get anything past "E" were I live and thats not vary good for orb and streaming Movies and TV
The reason I started using Bluetooth is I bought a hands free headset and a BT Gamepad, both of there ranges are 1-2 inches but jump to the correct range when wifi is off.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the bluetooth and wifi probably operate off the same sytem in the kaiser?
If I had to guess, it would have something to with your battery. If you have a weak phone signal, your battery has to work harder to keep the call up. Just my guess
Thats another thing to try, try keeping the phone plugged in while you do this and see if the results vary from not having it plugged in.
I actually saw it to vary from ROM to ROM. On XDA Live 2.0, i could never use both simeltaneously. If i turned wifi on, my headset would disconnect. After I made my ROM, i had no problems whatsoever with both coexisting.
It's normal. Both interfaces use the same frequency band and must share it. When one uses a lot of the available bandwidth, the other is likely to be thrown off. Now if people report different behavior between ROMs it might be stuff like the prioritization between the 2 being different, or simply low-level settings like the number of retries in case of failed transmissions (as many of those will occur when both interfaces are used simultaneously) before a packet is dropped/connection is lost.
An example of the other way, if I use my stereo handset to listen to music (bandwidth-intensive), the Wifi will disconnect even if I'm 2m away from the router.
mech_supernova said:
I dont know how long this has been happining because up to 2 days ago I dident use any bluetooth devices with my phone but I just found out yesterday I was having a problem and after hours of searching and narrowing the problem down I finnaly found that enabling wifi caused my bluetooth range to drop to just a cople inches.
The reason I need wifi is that I dont get anything past "E" were I live and thats not vary good for orb and streaming Movies and TV
The reason I started using Bluetooth is I bought a hands free headset and a BT Gamepad, both of there ranges are 1-2 inches but jump to the correct range when wifi is off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Off topic, but which bluetooth gamepads did you get?
Thanks for all your replies
kareem9nba said:
Off topic, but which bluetooth gamepads did you get?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its the BGP100 works great with Morphgear Emulator heres a link
http://gizmodo.com/gadgets/peripherals/input/chainpus-bgp100-bluetooth-gamepad-102114.php

Nexus 7 Car Head-unit Install

Nexus 7 Head-unit Install
Hi all, long time reader, first time poster. I'm working on a Nexus 7 Car Head-unit install, and figured I would post my working through the install, hardware, software, and kinda just help all the tons of people I see out there who have the same idea, but just have no idea how to go about it.
This is ment to be half a tutorial (once everything is done) and half a brainstorming to give me idea's for things I haven't thought of or considered. I'll be coming back and updating this OP with pictures, and the build as it gets worked on.
Goals of the Install
I want to be able to run my entire car off the Nexus. I have already set up wifi tethering from my S3 to get internet into the Nexus, and thus open up a realm of possibilities. Necessary features are Nav, and Music. I rarely call from my car, but in car calling would be a nice feature to have as well. I also go out to the track ever now and again, and adding car stats (boost, RPM logging, acceleration, mapping) would be great. The biggest reason to do the install is that one the hardware is configured, you literally have a ultimately customizable setup that will take years to outdate.
The Hardware
1 x 2003 Subaru WRX
1 x Nexus 7
1 x Samsung Galaxy S3 (T-Mobile)
1 x MRX-V60 - Alpine 5-Channel Subwoofer Amplifier
1 x 7 Channel Equalizer
lots of hacked wiring
The Software
This is where I would love some feedback on on what I may be missing, better solutions to what I have suggested, and just some general awesome idea's!
Music:
Pandora, Play Music, DI.fm, Soundcloud, Radio.com
In Car Phone/Text:
Talkatak, Google Voice
OBDII Support: (Future Project)
Right now this is not a nessiacty as the hardware to do this could get very tricky. However I know I can read from the OBDII port with a bluetooth OBDII dongel and an app like Torque Lite. However I do own a tatrix cable, and am considering if it would be possible to go from the USB to the tablet, and find an app/write one what allows for the tablet to control the car in real time.
Nav:
Google Navigation, Local
Track Apps:
aLapHD
The Two Builds
There are two ways to go about this. The first would be the simple and easy way which is to hack together a charger wired to the power source of the car, and use that to keep the tablet charged. Then run a 3.5mm audio into the amp, and have sound run from there. There are a few issues with that. 1. There will be no volume control, as the Tablet's buttons will be part of the center console. I suppose I can run a controller to the amp, that will let me adjust volume. 2. This will not allow for the possibility of adding OBDII support.
The second option is to purchase a micro USB dock that does audio out. Hack it apart, and run the audio to the amp, and the power to the power. This would be necessary if I want to do a full USB ODBII connection (I believe, please tell me if I'm wrong), and would be much "cleaner" when it comes time to take the tablet out of the car for any reason (hardwire sync, parking in the "ghetto").
What I need Help with
Have any idea's. Tried something similar and have some tips. Have suggestions for apps, hardware configurations I haven't listed, or just generally want to say "sick man". Please let me know. I would love to have some people who are also interested in doing this join in on my build, and we can work together to eliminate any issues to make tablet installs easier. I will be coming back and updating this OP throughout the entire process so please look for updates!
Thanks All!
(reserved for pics)
Check out a half-DIN equalizer or crossover to solve your volume, fading, equalizing concerns... can't post a link because this is first post!
I'd like do do this in the future... I hope someone comes out with a custom set of apps that make this really cool and easy... maybe even a custom ROM.
Basically what I'd want out of this is:
Auto-on with power. Auto off after 10 minutes of no power. FM radio tuner. Maybe the ability to connect a rear-view camera (wifi?). Bluetooth OBDII would be good enough for me.
I'd also appreciate the ability to connect to at least one camera and use it as a DVR, but I think that it would probably be beyond feasibility with the Nexus 7...
What I really want to see is the ability for the Nexus to be a full Bluetooth head unit. I want it to pair with my phone for both internet (already do this, works great) and have it act as a headset essentially. This is the part that appears to not exist anywhere. The ability for the Android Tablet to act as a hands free device. I mean if a car stereo can fully integrate with your phone read your address book, start and answer calls hands free, stream music, everything from your phone then why the heck not the tablet! Someone needs to write the BT stack that can handle that. Apparently it doesn't exist for android. It exists for Windows, but not Android. That is just wrong. Are there any car stereo head units running Android as their OS? If so can someone dump their rom so we can see what all it can do for a project like this?
I really want this!
I have had mine in the dash for a couple weeks now, streaming Bluetooth to the radio which I relocated, also using NFC sticker to turn on WiFi, bluetooth , set audio volume, screen brightness and start playing music. Tasker to put unit into car mode, its sick! I'll be following, really interested to see what you come up with. My car is N 06 altima and the Nexus 7 fits almost like a glove where factory stereo use to be.
Nexus 7 in altima
sneakk said:
I have had mine in the dash for a couple weeks now, streaming Bluetooth to the radio which I relocated, also using NFC sticker to turn on WiFi, bluetooth , set audio volume, screen brightness and start playing music. Tasker to put unit into car mode, its sick! I'll be following, really interested to see what you come up with. My car is N 06 altima and the Nexus 7 fits almost like a glove where factory stereo use to be.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
Can you upload a picture of your install? I own a altima and I am looking to install the Nexus 7 on my dash as well. And also, did your factory stereo have bluetooth? If not, what are you streaming bluetooth to?
Thanks
Just gonna subscribe as I thought of doing something similar
Sent from my LG-E739 using Tapatalk 2
Look into this thread
http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/152658-nexus-7-android-in-a-2001-audi-s4.html
here's a video also
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdLi9wCFZ7M
timskyline86 said:
Look into this thread
http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/152658-nexus-7-android-in-a-2001-audi-s4.html
here's a video also
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdLi9wCFZ7M
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If anyone can post on his site, tell him to connect two middle pins in usb plug, then it will start charging from the lighter socket.
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2
Does anyone know of a micro USB dock/cable that then splits to power, usb, and audio? I know of one's that will do 2 of the three, but nothing that does all three. Maybe just a USB and power one, and run the audio straight out of the 3.5mm on the N7.
Amp was ordered, and will be here next week. Prelimanary fitment pics coming soon...
Hello, I'm considering permanently mounting a nexus 7 in my car. It seems like the perfect in car device.
With this in mind I have updated my CarHome Ultra app to better accommodate the Nexus 7 screen. I will be posting a new video soon showing it running on the 7.
I've looked at doing this as well, I've always been prevented by the issue of the FM radio. I use the car a lot in places where I get no or poor connection via the phone, but the radio works fine, so loosing it would not be an option as I use the FM radio quite alot.
I've been trying to figure out away to control an FM radio via the Nexus so if anyone out there has any info it would be greatly appreciated.
Jonnym
Jonnym said:
I've looked at doing this as well, I've always been prevented by the issue of the FM radio. I use the car a lot in places where I get no or poor connection via the phone, but the radio works fine, so loosing it would not be an option as I use the FM radio quite alot.
I've been trying to figure out away to control an FM radio via the Nexus so if anyone out there has any info it would be greatly appreciated.
Jonnym
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Load a hand full of mp3s on the device. Then use Tasker to switch to switch to your favorite music player when reception is bad
Sent from my LG-E379 running ICSyndicate 2.0
I am actually currently doing a very similar project with a Nexus 7 and my Nissan 350z
I am planning on installing the Nexus 7 inside my dash (to replace sat nav dash)
HOWEVER
what about routing the power button on the tablet? Because If you cant access the power button the tablet will only get power when the car is on and if you dont use the car for a day or two the tablets battery would go flat and next time you turn on the car the tablet would go into charging mode (screen with charging battery only) and not boot up into android jelly bean.
Theres 2 potential solutions:
1. Open the tablet and wire the power button to a custom one, however on opening it I have found the button is actually a physical push press button and cannot be wired.
2. There is potential to change a file on the android system to tell the tablet to boot up when a charger is plugged in, check these threads:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1187631
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1815131
Any updates from the OP?
Here's my install. Kept the factory radio intact, if not using the nexus, everything looks totally stock.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1847452
regalpimpin said:
Here's my install. Kept the factory radio intact, if not using the nexus, everything looks totally stock.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1847452
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What OBD ll connector are you using?
tallyforeman said:
What OBD ll connector are you using?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
xitech xr7 purchased off amazon over a year ago.
http://www.amazon.com/XiTech-ELM327...TF8&qid=1347466620&sr=1-3&keywords=xitech+xr7
Never had any problems with it.
Despite working in the car industry and loving gadgets and mod-ing...I haven't really seen what people are up to these days in terms of car mods. The Nexus 7 makes so much sense and looks great!
Hey all
Just to add to the discusion;
Radio/DAB
Frontier silicon are the only company that I can find that do an app that can control an external radio and stream it's signal to the tablet as opposed to picking up the signal over the cellular network.
App:
Their page
http://www.frontier-silicon.com/products/software/DOK_App.html
Play store
http://tinyurl.com/d24gwm4
Module:
http://www.frontier-silicon.com/products/modules/briefs/Venice6_PB.pdf
now the problem with this is, aside from building the module in somewhere' the audio out as it feeds out of the module, but I was thinking I could use some form of y split cables near to my amps 'in'.
Media storage and playback
As far as storage for everything video/audio atc and a player to match I was thinking of useing xmbc
http://xbmc.org/
andriod port;
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813089
and pairing this with a WiFi DLNA HDD that I would wire in remoted off (say in the boot)
GPS
For improved gps I was going to use an external bluetooth gps reciver then allow mock locations on the tablet, there are also a few apps that help with this.
This app seems to have good support and a nice help page.
App:http://tinyurl.com/a9s7gvo
An example of a external GPS receiver
http://tinyurl.com/a339vu7
Hands Free
The only work round I seem to have found atm though far from perfect is this
http://www.scosche.com/consumer-tech/product/1919
it allows you to to 'cut in' the audio stream, but (can't fins the tread now will keep looking) the guy who was playing round with this was having audio issues.
not an idea solution but workable.
before my mind starts melting again;
How I plan to implement the tablet is to use tasker to wake the tablet when power is supplied then shut of down after, if I disable all kinds of connectivity when tablet shuts down then reactivates when it wakes up everything should run smoothly. Power will be cut because I'll wire in the ignition live, like you do in a stereo anyway, an this shouldn't put a drain on my battery to much, an if the dash build is good it shouldn't be too much of an issue extracting the tablet to hard boot anyway.
Volume and Audio
Volume and audio quality is another issue that needs to be addressed.
http://tinyurl.com/d2zbbnf
Seems like an ok work round.
Another way would be to install a direct in-line volume control as suggested in other threads, and put in an external DAC or hardwired EQ.
On a side note I came across this........ http://www.crutchfield.com/p_773AIRDAC/NuForce-Air-DAC-Receiver.html?tp=59282 ........ although you need to use their plug in senders but I'm sure this can be worked round with the knowledge on this forum, an would provide a very nice solution. then again there are quite a few bluetooth devices around. this probably wouldn't allow for in-line controls though.
well thats it for now, hope this helps push this forward to a working system
ben
nice build thread containing alot of theses ideas;
http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/152658-nexus-7-android-in-a-2001-audi-s4.html

Bluetooth audio issues

Got my One today... Pleased so far until I went for a drive and tried out the bluetooth in the car and found a couple of issues:
1 - Audio keeps cutting out every 15 seconds or so. It'll play, then quickly go quiet, and then work its way back up to regular volume. Really annoying!
2 - The meta data is completely wrong. For example, I was playing a podcast via Doggcatcher, yet the meta data was for a track I'd been playing previously in Google Music.
Tried with Beats Audio on, and off, but didn't make any difference. I have several other phones of different makes/models etc... paired with the car and none of them have these issues.
Anyone else having these issues?
debug77 said:
Got my One today... Pleased so far until I went for a drive and tried out the bluetooth in the car and found a couple of issues:
1 - Audio keeps cutting out every 15 seconds or so. It'll play, then quickly go quiet, and then work its way back up to regular volume. Really annoying!
2 - The meta data is completely wrong. For example, I was playing a podcast via Doggcatcher, yet the meta data was for a track I'd been playing previously in Google Music.
Tried with Beats Audio on, and off, but didn't make any difference. I have several other phones of different makes/models etc... paired with the car and none of them have these issues.
Anyone else having these issues?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same issue, turning wifi off seemed to fix it :good:
The meta data issue is a common problem around Android phones I found out so far. I use N7player and on my car radio display it says Load 8.1 from Eisenfunk, but I'm playing I will be heard from Hatebreed. This happens on different phones with stock player installed.
The Load 8.1 from Eisenfunk is loaded in the stock music player, so the problem seems to be, that you have to find a workaround to get player X your standard player and disable everything else. Since I only use N7, I disabled every other player and it seems to work, but its a lazy workaround. Someone should find a fix for this. Maybe I should just use the stock filemanager and try to start a mp3 and than set N7 to default. Maybe this works.
For the BT cutting outs, I didn't recognize those cutouts. Don't ask me what is wrong at your side, I use a Pioneer DEH-X8500BT car radio and my HTC One is in my pocket. Do you have a bluetooth bridge like Belkin or Logitech BT Audio adapter or wireless speakers like Boombox or such thing so check if this happens with them, too? I had a issue once with a Samsung device and my Creative wireless speakersystem with BT connection and it was cutting off randomly until I found out that another app was causing this.
AW: Bluetooth audio issues
I had the same problem too and solved this by disabling the energy-saving-options. With energysaving all dataconnections will be disabled when the screen gets off.
You can also setup the energysavingsettings and disable the turn off from all dataconnections.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
AW: Bluetooth audio issues
These are the settings to disable.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
debug77 said:
Got my One today... Pleased so far until I went for a drive and tried out the bluetooth in the car and found a couple of issues:
1 - Audio keeps cutting out every 15 seconds or so. It'll play, then quickly go quiet, and then work its way back up to regular volume. Really annoying!
2 - The meta data is completely wrong. For example, I was playing a podcast via Doggcatcher, yet the meta data was for a track I'd been playing previously in Google Music.
Tried with Beats Audio on, and off, but didn't make any difference. I have several other phones of different makes/models etc... paired with the car and none of them have these issues.
Anyone else having these issues?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to have this problem in 1.28Rom with WifI turn on too, but it fixed in Rom 1.29. :laugh:
How did you get the updated rom?
Spewy1 said:
How did you get the updated rom?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I work in Carrier shop in TW and for the Demo unit is already update to 1.29
ant78 said:
I had the same issue, turning wifi off seemed to fix it :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the pointers guys. I installed AutomateIt so that when it connects to my car's bluetooth, it disables WiFi (and then switches it back on when I get out). Seems to work a treat!
HTC asked me to fill in a support call, but by the sounds of it it's hopefully all sorted in the 1.29 ROM Let's hope for a speedy release of it around the world :good:
Not sure what to do about the meta data though. I use quite a few different music apps (Soundcloud, Google Music, Sony Music, and Doggcatcher) so setting one to be default isn't really a solution for me unfortunately.
I'm getting both issues but I saw this thread before I got my phone and knew to turn off the wifi. A minor inconvenience but glad it'll be fixed in the next update.
As for the meta data, I'm using Gone Mad music player (the dev recently put it on sale and I fancied a change from the now-abandoned ubermusic). I can confirm that the track never changed from the first one I played. Haven't yet tried the stock music player, but I do recall that I had a similar issue on my SGS3 when using a combination of stock, ubermusic and google music. Very annoying. I think the same happened in the brief moment I had the Xperia Z too, so I would agree that it's an Android issue, not necessarily a HTC issue.
Hey there,
not specifically related to use with car sets, but I have general BT headset issues. I already tested two of them. I get dropouts every now and then, i.e. I don't hear the one on the other end, plus people absolutely do not hear me most of the time when I use the BT headset - I have to speak into the phone, and even then no sound at times. No problems with my former HOX though. Can anyone confirm? Am I deemed to NOT use WLAN while having a BT headset connected in general?
Thanks in advance .
I've been having audio issues via A2DP - but again only with WiFi enabled. Not a problem in the car as Tasker will turn off WiFi for me. But in my house when using A2DP streaming, I want to use my WiFi.
Let's hope 1.29 fixes, otherwise I might consider a 5Ghz router...
An FYI. When these phones passed through the FCC I was such a geek that I actually read the transmitter testing. There is an affidavit in there about the BT and WiFI radios sharing an antenna and due to FCC restrictions that the two shall never transmit at the same time. All I can devise is they use a very fast radio switcher to ensure both can be on at once. That software that powers the transmitter transfer mechanism must be not optimized. Or worse, the hardware just really cant handle that. This is what happens when you have aluminum. Need to cram as much into antenna spots as possible. The I-phone 5 has the same setup but their software seems to handle it better. Hopefully this is fixed with a ROM release.
F*ck me, that would explain why I was able to make normal phone calls when I am outside my office - there is no WiFi to interfere! I will have to test tomorrow again, but feel a bit irritated about the fact that I cannot use Bluetooth for audio and WiFi at the same time. Thanks for pointing that out again!
jackdforme said:
An FYI. When these phones passed through the FCC I was such a geek that I actually read the transmitter testing. There is an affidavit in there about the BT and WiFI radios sharing an antenna and due to FCC restrictions that the two shall never transmit at the same time. All I can devise is they use a very fast radio switcher to ensure both can be on at once. That software that powers the transmitter transfer mechanism must be not optimized. Or worse, the hardware just really cant handle that. This is what happens when you have aluminum. Need to cram as much into antenna spots as possible. The I-phone 5 has the same setup but their software seems to handle it better. Hopefully this is fixed with a ROM release.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If that was true you'd never be able to stream content over Wi-Fi (Hulu, Netflix, Pandora, Spotify) and listen to it over BT. That's done all the time. Wi-Fi and BT both use the 2.4GHz frequency. Maybe the requirement you read applies to via separate antennas which may be why both share a single antenna. Aluminum and wireless signals don't mix. Asus had BT problems with the TF201 because they had to compensate for the aluminum back of the device by amping the Wi-Fi signal to the point it overpowered the weaker BT signal. Since turning off Wi-Fi improves BT performance (and range) something similar may be occurring on the One. With so few devices in people's hands it's too early to call.
Here's the LTE SGS3 for T-Mobile that just passed through the FCC compared to the One.
Hey I hear you and what your saying makes sense. The reality is a featured coding called time sharing. So due to an ultra fast buffering you are actually never transmitting both at once. That means this very well could be the culprit. Don't need to believe me. Check out the first letter from htc in the FCC registration. Clear as day.
jackdforme said:
Hey I hear you and what your saying makes sense. The reality is a featured coding called time sharing. So due to an ultra fast buffering you are actually never transmitting both at once. That means this very well could be the culprit. Don't need to believe me. Check out the first letter from htc in the FCC registration. Clear as day.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, it's either the radio, h/w, s/w, or interference. The radio can be ruled out because the BCM4335 is specifically designed to reduce radio interference between competing signals. That leaves either something in the way the h/w is assembled, tuning of the radio drivers/settings or interference between the various radios caused by their output settings, antenna size/placement, or the aluminum body attenuating the signals. I guess time will tell which it is and whether or not it's a big deal to the majority of users.
The BCM4335 introduces the newest version of Broadcom's wireless coexistence technology. Handset makers can use this technology on 4G LTE cellular platforms to minimize the possibility of radio interference between Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and LTE, which operate in adjacent radio frequencies. Broadcom's Global Coexistence Interface supports the Bluetooth Special Interest Group's (SIG) LTE coexistence scheme and can be applied to future Broadcom LTE platforms, as well as 4G cellular platforms from other vendors.​http://www.broadcom.com/products/Wireless-LAN/802.11-Wireless-LAN-Solutions/BCM4335
Anand described the antenna structure but I don’t really understand whether he’s saying the entire horizontal aluminum strips on the back above and below the line of injected plastic are the antennas or that the design allows the discrete antennas to be more effective.
The One uses the top and bottom aluminum strips for antennas, both of which are actively tuned to mitigate unintended attenuation from being held. There’s a plastic insulative strip in-between the two antennas and the main body. In spite of being aluminum, the One also includes NFC, whose active area surrounds the camera region.​
But his comments don’t seem to jive with iFixit’s after their tear down. They seem to be implying the signals are transmitted through the plastic surround which makes sense but limits the transmission area.
The daughterboard remains, but there is still a mystery left unsolved. No phone operates without antennas, and antennas don't transmit signals well through metal walls. Considering that this daughterboard is on the receiving end of the motherboard's antenna cables and sits directly under the plastic bezel at the top of the phone, we're thinking it has something to do with wireless signals. See those three spring contacts along the top of the board? They meet the rear case in an area obscured by the plastic bezel. If we had to guess, that's where HTC put the antennas.​
I would like to post the declaration from the FCC site. Its says it and the model of the bt/wifi radio in the device as registered although the part number looks like the phones part number with a few extra numbers. I truly hope this isn't one of those situations where some BT is unaffected because of the other end having better or newer processors. A la modern BMW's. The professional radio BT sucks it. Always drops even the best phone BT. So, if this phone has a nice antenna split tech and can be very fast at switching transmission times, but the other side cant keep up with the chop, we have a long term problem. I cant post the link because I am too new. Sorry.
Using sense 1.28.771.6, bluetooth/wifi work fine simultaneously.
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
I tried today with WiFi off and must admit that this is the (temporary) solution. I am on stock with 1.28.401.7 and DO have issues with WiFi and BT being used simultaneously. Now I can at least use BT with my headset.

Dual BT Question

Which is your favorite color phone case?
After watching a few YouTube videos I now understand that the dual feature of the Note 8 Bluetooth has nothing to do with Bluetooth 5.
From what I've learned, Bluetooth 5 is simply a combination of Classic Bluetooth (2 & 3) coupled with Extended Bluetooth (high range with lesser throughput), which does NOT mean you can expect to crash n your speaker in the house from the garden.
In other words, for the DUAL Bluetooth feature on the Note 8, it would appear that there are in fact two separate BT reciever / transmitters.
Can anyone verify this?
Also, if this is true, how likely will it be that either a software update or an app will be able to take advantage of this, and split stereo channels to two separate Bluetooth speakers, thus giving true stereo sound in the home?
AddictedToGlass said:
Which is your favorite color phone case?
After watching a few YouTube videos I now understand that the dual feature of the Note 8 Bluetooth has nothing to do with Bluetooth 5.
From what I've learned, Bluetooth 5 is simply a combination of Classic Bluetooth (2 & 3) coupled with Extended Bluetooth (high range with lesser throughput), which does NOT mean you can expect to crash n your speaker in the house from the garden.
In other words, for the DUAL Bluetooth feature on the Note 8, it would appear that there are in fact two separate BT reciever / transmitters.
Can anyone verify this?
Also, if this is true, how likely will it be that either a software update or an app will be able to take advantage of this, and split stereo channels to two separate Bluetooth speakers, thus giving true stereo sound in the home?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why I dunno, ATG! That's a pretty good friggin' question about a thousand dollars phone to ask here, on what's arguably the largest collection of handset-technology educated folks on the Internet.
Ohmagosh, let's see what they say...!
AddictedToGlass said:
Why I dunno, ATG! That's a pretty good friggin' question about a thousand dollars phone to ask here, on what's arguably the largest collection of handset-technology educated folks on the Internet.
Ohmagosh, let's see what they say...!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why I don't know, maybe it does have two BT chips in it. I'm going to guess it does. The delay sucks though for sure.
Meh... I'll take any answer I can get at this point just get the discussion going. Can't believe this hasn't been a major discussion topic yet, and I can't find anything about what I'm asking on the web.
The delay can be remedied by changing placement of the phone between the devices. In other words, from what I've read / heard, no matter how different the two speakers are, there's a theoretical distance between each one that is the ideal placement for the phone where they'll be no lag between the two. I've done this in my own house. I relocated a small table in the foyer to get optimum placement between the dining room and living room speakers.
I have yet to try this with identical speakers to check if midway between them is ideal placement for the phone.
AddictedToGlass said:
Meh... I'll take any answer I can get at this point just get the discussion going. Can't believe this hasn't been a major discussion topic yet, and I can't find anything about what I'm asking on the web.
The delay can be remedied by changing placement of the phone between the devices. In other words, from what I've read / heard, no matter how different the two speakers are, there's a theoretical distance between each one that is the ideal placement for the phone where they'll be no lag between the two. I've done this in my own house. I relocated a small table in the foyer to get optimum placement between the dining room and living room speakers.
I have yet to try this with identical speakers to check if midway between them is ideal placement for the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My problem isn't the latency it's the dang volumes. Even with the setting. Can't think of it as I haven't tried in a while. But one of my speakers are as quiet as can be the other is blazing loud. I could never get them to even nearly match...
Surely it's only got one Bluetooth chip just allows more than 1 connection.
No different than having your speakers and a watch connected at the same time 2.
Just 2 audio streams at once
What hasn't Bluetooth allowed more than once bt device gonna had before as long as they used different profiles
I have several speakers, and also two of the same model by the same brand, and until now, I could never get then to play at the same time.
Maybe I should just bitter the bullet and buy a system that splits the stereo channel between two speakers after.
Dual Bluetooth feature means that you can connect with two Bluetooth audio devices at same time and music on the phone will be played simultaneously on the both devices. Left audio channel on the first connected, Right audio channel on second connected.
Switch "Dual audio" via 3dots Bluetooth menu.
Only first device can control (pause/play/next/previos) phone's player.
There is no need both devices to be same brand/model.
Bluetooth version of devices is also not important.
All version are backwards compatible with previous versions. So if your phone is v5, first speaker v4, second v2, so all communications will be on v2.
Even v1 Bluetooth support up to 8 devices multiple (serial) connections. One phone connected to 7 others and gaming multiplayer (Nokia N-gage) . But just now manufacturer deside to make two (audio channels) connection.
ChoSmile, I'm failing to understand...
Are you saying they are already separated into left and right audio channels??
dual Bluetooth has nothing to do with channel separation; all it does is allow 2 devices to be connected to your phone via Bluetooth at the same time, listening to the same exact audio stream
Jammol said:
Why I don't know, maybe it does have two BT chips in it. I'm going to guess it does. The delay sucks though for sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AddictedToGlass said:
Meh... I'll take any answer I can get at this point just get the discussion going. Can't believe this hasn't been a major discussion topic yet, and I can't find anything about what I'm asking on the web.
The delay can be remedied by changing placement of the phone between the devices. In other words, from what I've read / heard, no matter how different the two speakers are, there's a theoretical distance between each one that is the ideal placement for the phone where they'll be no lag between the two. I've done this in my own house. I relocated a small table in the foyer to get optimum placement between the dining room and living room speakers.
I have yet to try this with identical speakers to check if midway between them is ideal placement for the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I play music through poweramp to 2 phillips bt speakers that can connect together anyways. But it's a pain to connect them like that so I just connect them with the dual bt the phone uses. I know what your talking about with the delay so right away I figured out that after they are paired and music starts playing (delayed of course) I simply force close poweramp, go back in and hit play and..... No delay
I'm using 2x Sony Srs-XB10s which natively support stereo pairing themselves, and I dual audio to a Marley with a cheap iPod dock, bluetooth adapter.
There's a ~1s delay from the Sony's when they're in native-stereo mode.
There's ~0.3s delay when they're attached singularly over Bluetooth. This fluctuates, but usually grows to ~0.8s over 2 minutes, then resets.
It's upsetting the audio can't be delayed per-device manually.
I love the technology though and it excited me I could in theory have 5.1 with this solution (Marley is almost a 2.1) but alas it's not mature enough.
Keenly interested in the progress of this feature! Saves the manufacturer having to implement it, though Sony's, despite the bigger delay, is very very simple and obviously there's no delay between their own 2 speakers.

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