Database Develop

ATT tilt - usb RISK

hi, all. there is a rumor going around that the tilt will have problems if we frequently use non-original charger or usb cable (the one came with tilt) to charge the phone or transfer data such as causing the tilt not functioning or possibly burn out the device/battery, is that true??? do we always use the original usb cable and charger for charging the ATT tilt or transfering data? cuz I m currently using a usb car adapter to charge the tilt. I m really scare of it if this rumor is true. I don't want my tilt get burnt out. Please confirm or disconfirm it.. many thx

usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe

Rudegar said:
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the confirmation. seriously, I didn't believe that a usb cable will cause such serious problems since there is only minor difference in the original cable and a regular usb cable. they all look the same internally except for the terminal shape.

as an extra safety precaution, i wouldn't start the car with the tilt plugged in. might be nothing, might be something. once the car is running then i'd plug the tilt in....

i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.

Don't plug the phone in while the moon is out and the planets are aligned, it could cause the charger to spike and then brike your phone. j/k
My buddy had a problem with his USB. I think he put in a funky cable and it bent the connectors that are in the mini usb hole. Careful careful.

I would have to agree with that any usb be fine but be careful. When I first got my tilt awhile back I got this free usb car charger with it. It worked fine but something broke on the inside of it cause i could hear rattling inside. Prob a chip or something to tell the charger to stop charging if batttery is full. Well long story short I fried my usb connection and could not charge my phone or sync it. End up exchanging my Tilt out for a new one.

I am using the same USB cable to charge and sync since my Cingular 8125. I never charge using AC power.
As for car chargers, here is a simple way to check for potential power surges during starting:
1) Turn your key to "ON" but don't actually crank it. Let the radio come on and start playing. Now start the engine. Did your radio cut off during ignition?
-If Yes, unplug devices before starting because your car is not wired to supply continuous power to its outlets.
2) With your car off, and the key removed, plug in your phone. Does it start charging?
-If No, wait until the engine is running before plugging in your phone.
I am able to keep my phone connected at all times because as part of my ~$2000 audio upgrade, I also added an industrial-grade circuit breaker (not a fuse, an actual circuit breaker) between my battery and the inside of the car. In 4 years of running it, I have yet to stress it enough to pop.

Oh nice, I haven't seen too many breakers in a car. Saves on those uber expensive fuses.

The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.

I bought a sweet 3 in 1 charger kit from frys for 20 dolla..
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Be jealous it's ok!
http://www.wirelessemporium.com/pro...-1-mobile-phone-charger-motorola-razr2-v9.asp

Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, Of course store guys are going to say that. That's what HTC says. And Store Guys are nothing but Puppets who read papers given to them by corporate and they recite them. Plus they can charge you more, there for make more money, if they sell you a OEM Charger then a "compatible" charger.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTC_ExtUSB
Plus the cable I got with my Tilt works just like a Standard USB cable so I don't think there is an issue. But what I'd like to see is the Numbers. Using the "HTC USB Sync cable" and a standard USB cable what amps are being sent. And What does the Device Prefer?

It can't use the name mini usb if it's not mini usb. I have a zippy belkin mini usb and it works greeeeat.

stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just make sure that your car charger has a fuse. If needed, change the fuse to a lower type (one that is just above the recommended for the Tilt, .5a is what I think it draws at). This will protect it from spikes when you start the car.
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used so many different types of USB cables and/or chargers on my Tilt. I have not once had an issue. Just make sure the power ratings are correct and you're good.

Whilst I normally subscribe to the view that the HTC branded part is no better than a decent quality 3rd party part, I have had issues with non-HTC chargers.
I manage the BlackBerries at work, and have tried numerous BB miniUSB chargers (The one with the cord hard wired and the one which is effectively a mains plug to female USB) and neither work with my Kaiser.
I also had issues with car cigarette lighter to USB adapters. As soon as I obtained an official HTC car charger, all the problems went away.

Scott_F said:
...
I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't supply more current then the device can consume. The number on the charger just shows the highest value of a current the charger can produce without dropping the voltage.

I bought a Cell phone & USB charging kit from BestBuy today and my Tilt got fried when I connected it to this charger after the car had already started. I just noticed the charger output is 5.3V 0.5A whereas the battery pack is only 3.7V ???

hey improtant question. i think that the usb port in the kaiser actually dose get messed up using other chargers. i belive this becouse i used to be able to charge with any charger like some of you but now only htc's charger works. and that sucks but whatever the bad part is the headphones downt work any more. cany any one else that has to use htc's charger confirm that the headphones no longer work?

I've seen issues with various chargers (including one for the Dopod 838pro, Motorolla, and no-name car chargers), where I've seen it not activate the charging mode on the PDA intermittently. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to conclusively rule out that the HTC original chargers will work 100% of the time either, since that particular Tilt unit wasn't mine.
Also for some reason, I've had this accessory fail to connect to the headphones port after using it for a while (with a car charger connected). Fortunately, i had bought a few (for myself and others), and the port on the HTC is still working. So maybe you can try another headphone accessory and see if it's really the port on the HTC that is dead.

From my personal experience, testing, and reading on these forums, it appears that there are three conditions that need to be satisfied for reliable use of the USB port:
First - The Mechanical Fit
Standard mini-USB connecters DO NOT fit the same as the HTC extended USB implementation. To address this, I use the HTC signal splitter (headphone+charger/sync) on almost all standard USB cables for chargeing. It's fully compliant with the HTC in all ways and has added benefits. (see below)
Second - Pinout
The charging circuit in the Tilt (and others) can be finicky with regard to whether or not it works using a standard USB cable. The HTC splitter solves that and allows slow charging from virtually any USB compliant source. I also have the adapter from http://www.pocketpctechs.com/ in my car that even allows you to select the fast charge or slow charge pinout via a switch. (VERY COOL) This works great because I'm usually looking for the fast charge in the car. (Note... fast charge is disabled when transferring data via USB)
Third - Electrical Spec
Voltage is 5V for all USB outputs. Spikes generated in a car are pretty tough to transmit past the step down circuit/ic in the auto USB power adapters. I have never heard of a device being damaged by a spike from the car via one of these adapters. The chip itself would fail to open before frying the USB power client (aka the Phone).
Current draw for these phones is 0.5A for slow charging and around 1A+ for fast charging. This is determined by the pinout of the cable you are using. Slow charge is the default on all data type cables. Some cables sold as "charging cables" enable the fast charge. (The PPC Techs cable has the switch to do this) I recommend using at least 750mA chargers to allow the phone to have enough current to run the gps, bluetooth, etc with the screen brightness turned up and still have a small excess trickle to charge the battery.
I hope this summary helps a bit.
Cheers!

Mini-USB car charger / IC intelligent chip

I have the HTC orginal car charger with Mini-USB connector. This car charger has and intelligent chip "IC" to prevent overheating when charge is 100%
Now, HD2 has a MICRO connector. My question is, if I use it with a mini-to-micro converter, will this "IC" feature continue working?

Talking about this:
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And this:

wat, IC stands for integrated circuit.
Also, the charging mechanism to prevent overcharging or damage to batteries is on the device (phone) not the adapter.

Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?

Hello,i've the same thing and it works fine . All pins are connected in the adaptator .

pckshd said:
Yes, the phone sends the "charged" signal, adapter receives it and stops charging and turns light indicator off.
What I am saying is that maybe the mini to micro converter will prevent that signal to be sent and hence continue charging/overheating?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no it's the phone that's drawing the current, not the adapter. Adapter is a "dumb" servant that serves current upon request.
the converter is just a wiring converter so again ther'es no intelligence involved.

Thank you!

I have 2 of that EXACT converters shown in the photo above... IT DOES NOT WORK!!!
For some reason, my phone will not charge when I use that adaptor... I also bought a Motorola one which works well

Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2

pckshd said:
Thanks for the info!. Will get the Motorola converter as well...
This one right? http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-SKN6252-Sprint-Motorola-Renegade/dp/B0012DRDH2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup That one works fine and data works also... you can charge and sync with it

I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.

Guys,
I use Motorola P513 microUSB car charger. It works like a charm. After fully charged HD2 disconnects from it so there's no possibility to overheating. I really recommend it. An it looks fancy too
http://www.motorola.com/Consumers/U...gers/P513-microUSB-Car-Charger-89143N-US-EN-2
Price about $14 in Poland

psdos said:
I have this
and cant sync with it, only charge, and i dont know why, because all pin are connect in two sides.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude... 1 have two of those and they both wont charge... not in car, via charger or anywhere else.... I was so pissed off as I got two of them... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
THe one showing in the picture... when I plug it on the cable with the other end in the cigarette lighter adaptor, the cigaretter indicator light goes out on that end as if a circuit has been cut.... this happens even without anything plugged in and happens with both adaptors I bought... nothing charges also.... pissed me off!

from what i see that is also a surge protector. 8v to 3v, being a surge protector, it has a capacitor inside, and that will naturally block all data connection.

eskasi said:
... thank goodness for the Motorola one I ordered as a backup. That one even allows sync
....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks

Som30ne said:
Could you provide a link to that motorola adaptor ?
I have searched Ebay and all the adaptors I found, specify they can only charge the phone, but not transfer data.
For some of them I also asked the sellers, and they said just the same - Charge ONLY.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-MicroUSB-Adapter-RAZR2-SKN6252/dp/B001EJFZ5G
This is the one... as long as it looks like this... I am using it right now as I type this

Thanks for the reply.
I tried checking where and how they ship - and (as in many other cases) it seems they only shim within the US.
Since Im not in the US . . .
Is there any other one ?
About the comment that says - "as long as it looks like this" - well - I saw several of them, and as I mentioned in my previous post - they specify that they (the ones I saw) only charges the device, and when I asked the seller - they aslo claimed that it's only for charging, and does not transfer data.
(maybe they look the same on the outside, but the wiring is different ? - I wonder)

Be careful.
By the time you plug a mini USB plug into such an micro adapter, the potential leverage on the phone / micro socket will be quite considerable!

Why? What do you mean exactly?

The above one piece adaptor together with the charger's Mini USB plug is similarly rigid & I'm guessing about 2½ to 3 inches long - maybe 10 to 12 times the length of the actual micro socket! Some 10:1 leverage ratio. Maybe 3 times as much as without an adaptor.
I doubt that the design spec of a USB micro socket was ever designed to withstand the potential force that even mild accidental input leverage applied at a right angle would exert, on conversion to output leverage, on the phone's socket. For example, the leads tend to be 1 metre and are quite restricting. with the lead at right angles to the phone, 'testing' the cables length, the 'moment of force' (technical term) applied is likely to exceed the the design spec of the socket many fold.
I am suggesting there is a risk of separating the socket from the phone's chassis and/or its electrical connections to the printed circuit board within the phone.
At the vary least, due to the cables inherent stiffness, over a period of time the phones micro socket will get enlarged / bell shaped simply from small gentle leverage movements. IE. whilst USB connected, simply picking up the phone, messaging, or making a call. Eventually electrical / mechanical connections will gradually fail.
To reduce, but not eliminate this effect, I would suggest an adaptor cable as opposed to a one piece adaptor.
(Think I've waffled a bit here, but hope I've conveyed what I mean)

Brodit Active car holder

Just installed the Brodit active car holder. Holds the phone securely, charges it and looks nice. What more could one want ?
http://www.brodit.com/?main=searchb...-94CF-A04BFE025E64&showTypeHidden=0&showID=43
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Does it have the standard car holder interface with the 4 small blocks, as shown in this picture?

Let me answer this question myself: No it doesn't have the standardized interface. Is has a tilt & swivel mounting with a 4 hole plate to screw it onto something. I ordered one and screwed it to my dashboard.

what output does it have?... like Volts and Amps....
when you put the phone in isn't it a bit harder because of the microusb?... i'd go for one of these but i'm afraid that the microusb port will break with time (getting to loose)...

Hi,
I'm using the active holder already for several months now without any issues.
I also changed the plug to a USB instead of the cig to listen to the music on my storage card and it works absolutely perfect.
Joerg

schrej said:
Hi,
I also changed the plug to a USB instead of the cig to listen to the music on my storage card and it works absolutely perfect.
Joerg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what do you mean exactly?...
by the way... the cigplug version comes with a usb cable stuck in it or is it in one piece?...
and whate is with that molex adaptor?

ccezar2004 said:
what output does it have?... like Volts and Amps....
when you put the phone in isn't it a bit harder because of the microusb?... i'd go for one of these but i'm afraid that the microusb port will break with time (getting to loose)...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
900 mA. I guess it outputs 5 V like any other charger or else I would have fried my HD2 .
Sliding in the phone is not easy at first. Not because of the micro USB jack but because the holder is tight. In order not to tilt or swivel it you need 2 hands to slide in the phone. That's the only disadvantage I could find: you can too easily alter the position you put your phone in. The advantages are:
It's very stable. No shaking phone.
It quickcharges. No slow draining of the battery then using the GPS and playing music at the same time.
It is not too big and looks fine in the car.
No leds or other shiny stuff to distract you constantly.
I think the cable is thick enough to withstand the normal abuse (sunlight, high temps, movement).
ccezar2004 said:
what do you mean exactly?...
by the way... the cigplug version comes with a usb cable stuck in it or is it in one piece?...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it's in 1 piece.

i think ițll go for one... active... i just have to find a way to hide the cable...
does anyone knows what is with the molex one?

i ordered an active holder... i have many doubts regarding the fact that every time i'll put tho phone in the holder it will charge... and i don't need it to charge every time... like when i go to work in the morning... a 20-30 min ride... won't this affect the battery over time?...
schrej ... give me more details about changing to usb and listening to music....

ccezar2004 said:
i ordered an active holder... i have many doubts regarding the fact that every time i'll put tho phone in the holder it will charge... and i don't need it to charge every time... like when i go to work in the morning... a 20-30 min ride... won't this affect the battery over time?...
schrej ... give me more details about changing to usb and listening to music....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
well I remembered a good explanation in a "Kaiser" thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=339263&highlight=brodit
It works the same way with the Leo.
Only difference: There's no more need to peel off the the rubber casing from the micro-usb-plug. Just remove the top plate as described, remove the mircro-usb plug incl. the car-charger, replace it by your micro-usb cable, reattach the top plate and there you go.
One more tip: insert the HD2 while adjusting the micro-usb plug and reattaching the top plate. This assures a perfect fit.
schrej

that was for the 3 in 1 adapter... no need with HD2 as it has separate audio jack...
in about 2-3 weeks i'll have my holder... to much time... but that's the way it is done here... once a month import...
i'll be bcak with photos and impressions...

I'm after one of these, whats it like rotated? Maybe a photo? Secure?

ccezar2004 said:
that was for the 3 in 1 adapter... no need with HD2 as it has separate audio jack...
in about 2-3 weeks i'll have my holder... to much time... but that's the way it is done here... once a month import...
i'll be bcak with photos and impressions...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't understand your point. You can use any cable you need as long as it has the micro-usb on one end.
I used a mirco-usb to usb cable and am now able to connect my HD2 directly with the USB of my radio. So HD2 2 ist charging and my radio recognizes the HD2 SD card as an external usb device and plays the music on the SD card.
schrej

I have this holder too, and a pro clip for my car, so it doesn't sits in the way while driving. it works perfectly and don't have any problems at all with it.
And regarding the molex question: this is the version without a cig plug, but with a solution to hide all your cables behind the dashboard and connect it to a power source there.

Brodit holder and Car Kit Mode
Has anyone succeeded in making the Brodit Active holder operate car kit mode - preferably by a registry tweak or the likes. In one of the other threads it's been suggested that by grounding pin 4 of the Micro USB it will automatically activate NaviPAnel the way the HTC car holder does. Has anyone tried this yet with another holder?

i just got mine... perfect!
will post some pics if i'll have the time...
LE: next I'll do something to hide the power cable...

there's only 1 problem. if you are using extended battery, it wont fit, does it?

i'm not planning to use one (that's the reason i got the active holder) and actually i think it will fit, as there is quite a large space remaining behind the phone

hmmm would be nice if there's a way to mod the other usb end to a external pack like sanyo 5500mah battery. then mount it to a bicycle.
does it connect straight to the 12v adaptor? or it has a USB type A head also?

straight to the cig plug...
now i wanna find a way to add a fix audio jack in the holder so when i put the phone in the holder to have it routed through auxiliary audio input on my stereo...

MicroUSB Female 7 pin pinout

Searched through XDA and other forums found on Google and got nothing. Is there an existing pinout scheme for 7 pin microUSB female port in our phones? If there isn't, can somebody who knows how to use multimeter and disassemble Captivate tell me why the microUSB port has 5 inner and 7 outer pins? Which of these 7 pins are Data+, Data-, GND and +?
Have a cool idea about self-powered USB OTG, without information about this pinout my hands are tied.

Redhattler said:
Searched through XDA and other forums found on Google and got nothing. Is there an existing pinout scheme for 7 pin microUSB female port in our phones? If there isn't, can somebody who knows how to use multimeter and disassemble Captivate tell me why the microUSB port has 5 inner and 7 outer pins? Which of these 7 pins are Data+, Data-, GND and +?
Have a cool idea about self-powered USB OTG, without information about this pinout my hands are tied.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it is a 5 pin connector, not 7.
google 'micro usb pinout' and you will find several links, including wiki
charging with otg is prevented by power management chip in captivate. in otg mode, the phone is the power source for usb, not the load.

laughingT said:
it is a 5 pin connector, not 7.
google 'micro usb pinout' and you will find several links, including wiki
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are 7 pins coming from the rear part of the connector, not 5. Other 2 are used for additional supply or something else.

not on captivate sgh-i897. you must be confusing something else for pins. it is a standard micro usb b type connection.
I've done both charging and data transfer with generic cables.
http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml
the cable has a shield, separate from ground pin 5, that is attached to the metal outer D, surrounding the pins, on one end only of the cable. one end only prevents ground loops. shield envelops all wires for length of entire cable and prevents stray EM fields from interfering with data - this in addition to twisting, which also does some, allowing higher data rate than straight wires.
so, there is a connection for the shield on every usb connector, but the shield is never connected on device end. this one of the diffs in otg, when shield is connected at phone because it is the host. my educated guess is that you are looking at two shield connections - perhaps one dead ends or isn't connected in standard device mode cable, the other one is common with ground in otg cable.

laughingT said:
not on captivate sgh-i897. you must be confusing something else for pins. it is a standard micro usb b type connection.
I've done both charging and data transfer with generic cables.
http://pinoutsguide.com/PortableDevices/micro_usb_pinout.shtml
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In this guide there are shown inner pins, not the outer. By the outer pins I mean those which are connected to the PCB (mainboard).

Redhattler said:
In this guide there are shown inner pins, not the outer. By the outer pins I mean those which are connected to the PCB (mainboard).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
see shield function note above.
shield continuity test to ground pin 5 would confirm it.
S12345S would be the seven connections and only one S would have continuity to ground. it might be S54321S as you are viewing it.
again, this is guess, but testable.

laughingT said:
see shield function note above.
shield continuity test to ground pin 5 would confirm it.
S12345S would be the seven connections and only one S would have continuity to ground. it might be S54321S as you are viewing it.
again, this is guess, but testable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read about +2 pins for phone working w/o battery attached in some cases. After some soldering experiments my PCB isn't charging and it isn't recognized by PC. I'll test it after buying a multimeter and restoring USB port.

Redhattler said:
I've read about +2 pins for phone working w/o battery attached in some cases. After some soldering experiments my PCB isn't charging and it isn't recognized by PC. I'll test it after buying a multimeter and restoring USB port.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same problem,
In PCB connection side of the female socket of microUSB, there are 7 pins,
when i measure the connections with a multimeter,
GND / GND / X / X / X/ X/ 5V
are the connection row,
The GND plane is everywhere, so i can fix the problem but, i couldn't find, where the 5V trace goes
(there are some diodes and capacitors near the 5V pin but these are so so small (0201 i think and my magnifying glass is just 8X) so i couldn't find where it connects, )
And maybe the problem is the connection lost because of the trace or a bulk diode.
If you can find a solution the fix your problem, please share with me too =)

I know this is an old thread but since I was unable to find the answer any where I thought I would post this. What Redhatter is referring to is the PHONE side of the USB, not the cord side. The cord side is standard USB as laughingT pointed out, the phone side is 7 pins. After tearing apart a Samsung charging port the pinout on the phone side is
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
VCC | RX TX NC | GND
1,3,4,5,7 matches 1,2,3,4,5 respectively on the USB side. inside the connector the 2 and 6 pins stop short. 6 is ground as Redhatter pointed out. My guess is the 2 pin is an extra logic pin. When a Samsung cable is used instead of a generic cable 2 and 6 get connected in the cable and brings the logic circuit low most likely to enable either faster charging or higher data transfers. It may connect 2 and 1 enabling the phone to work off of a charger without a battery or 2 and 6 connect triggering a switch allowing the phone to isolate power from the battery and run off of the cable, but only with the right cable. However the latter seems like a pretty dirty solution that could easily be accomplished inside the phone with a mechanical switch. Unless the end goal was to sell more cables if customers wanted the feature.

Venomous Duck said:
1,3,4,5,7 matches 1,2,3,4,5 respectively on the USB side. inside the connector the 2 and 6 pins stop short. 6 is ground as Redhatter pointed out. My guess is the 2 pin is an extra logic pin.
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This is awesome, thanks! I've replaced the USB end (PCB + flex + microphone) to my S2 GT-I9100 twice now, and this time it's been only around 1-2 months and I have charging problems. So I was looking for the physical connectors on eBay I could try soldering (I have the old PCB's so I can practise). And then I really began to wonder why 7 pins, which leads me here.
My indirect experience on the extra pins: when I had charging problems for the first time, nudging the charger cable could trigger the phone to think it's been connected to car system, I got Driving mode on stock rom. So the extra pins are used, but I have no details.
I'm now thinking if using a generic cable is bad practise in case of these Samsung 7-pins, because I've heard S2's charging fine through years, and mine doesn't (I use all kinds of chargers / cables)? Replacing the USB PCB + flex is easy, but who orders them for later use? It's always busy time when you cannot charge properly...

Some-E said:
This is awesome, thanks! I've replaced the USB end (PCB + flex + microphone) to my S2 GT-I9100 twice now, and this time it's been only around 1-2 months and I have charging problems. So I was looking for the physical connectors on eBay I could try soldering (I have the old PCB's so I can practise). And then I really began to wonder why 7 pins, which leads me here.
My indirect experience on the extra pins: when I had charging problems for the first time, nudging the charger cable could trigger the phone to think it's been connected to car system, I got Driving mode on stock rom. So the extra pins are used, but I have no details.
I'm now thinking if using a generic cable is bad practise in case of these Samsung 7-pins, because I've heard S2's charging fine through years, and mine doesn't (I use all kinds of chargers / cables)? Replacing the USB PCB + flex is easy, but who orders them for later use? It's always busy time when you cannot charge properly...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe all samsungs have this type of connector. I have figured out (through sloppy soldering on my Galaxy S) that grounding pin 2 brings the phone to Dock Mode. Basically Andriod docks, like what originally came in early GM cars, has 2 and 6 connected. When you plug your phone into a media dock, 2 gets connected to 6 to bring it low (grounded). And yes, generic cables are most likely the cause of you port problems. They usually fit very loose, causing bent pins or literately pulling the pins from the PCB. I have had the best luck with factory LG cables.

have a zoom image Samsung Galaxy ACE 2 phone model I8160 USB area of the printed circuit board? The USB connector removed had 5 pins only now the universal replacement
has 7 pins that do not match the exact circuit solder connections. The new USB parts
have a total of 9 pins, 5 in the middle of the two pins on the left and two pins on the right
the two outside pins are welded together representing one pin on each side as pin 1 and pin 7 with 5 pins in between. The problem is the pins do not match the circuit board exact
Here is the source for Samsung Galaxy Ace 2 I8160, mini USB replacement parts
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Nexus 10 Car Install

Alright so I made that dock for when the Nexus 10 is at home, but what if I want it in the car? Next project! I basically used the Exogear Tablet Mount along with Pogo Cable and Griffin Bluetooth Adapter to fully intergrate the Nexus 10 into my car. Thought I'd write up the details just like the dock in case anyone wanted to give it a go.
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There's actually a lot that went into this, because:
1) It charges the tablet
2) Integrates with my car speakers
3) Is tethered to my phone, also mounted in the car
Stuff Used:
1) Tablet Mount
2) Pogo Cable
3) Phone Mount
4) Tablet Bluetooth
5) Phone Bluetooth
6) Power Adapter
7) Add a Circuit
8) Cigarette Lighter Adapter
9) AUX mixer
10) AUX Cable
11) PIE Interface
12) RCA Cable
13) Passive Amp
14) Ground Loop isolator
Step by Step
Step one was finding a mount/holder for the tablet. This one from exogear worked perfectly. I wanted charging, so I knew I wanted to integrate the pogo cable in somehow. I thought I would have to mod the holder a little but it was perfect as is - the pogo fits snuggly in the bottom:
Just force the usb end of the pogo into the hole at the bottom of the holder and you're good to go. I won't go into the details of removing the dash because every car is different, so I'l just say, get that cable inside the dash and leave it for now, we'll get back to it later. Lets stay on the outside for now. Next step, mount the phone:
Pretty simple. I found this mount to be the best - it was simple and allowed me to mount and dismount the phone quickly. I zip tied a charging cable for my phone and snaked that into the dash.
I integrated to my car stereo through bluetooth. But I wanted both the phone and the tablet to be connected. So I got two bluetooth devices. The trip here was to find ones that would auto connect without pressing any buttons on them since at least one would be behind the dash. And this was surprisingly hard to find. But this one from Griffin was exactly what I needed. It just plugs into a cigarette lighter and has a cable for Aux fro sound.
For the phone, I wanted one that I could use for calls and could control the phone with. So I mounted this little guy from Kinivo to the steering wheel. The one wire coming out of it split at the end to an aux for audio and a cigarette lighter plug. Bring that cable inside the dash.
Ok, so inside the dash is where all the magic happens.
So now we have to power everything. We have the following: USB from the pogo of the tablet, USB for the phone, 2 cigarette lighter plugs. Let's plug it all into this guy
But first you're going to have to modify it a little bit. So even though it says it can output 2.1A and 1A, that's only for apple products. Android handles things a little differently. If android detects that you're plugged into a usb port rather than a wall charger, it will only pull 500 mA regardless of what current is available. So we need to tell android that this is a higher current source. We do this by soldering the the two data lines in the usb together. The data lines are the middle two of the four. Just open up the case for the adapter and drop a ball of solder on the board for the middle two pins of both USB connectors. Trust me it works!
Now we need to plug the adapter into a power source. The easiest way to do this is to plug it into and cigarette lighter. But you don't find those inside the dash and I didn't want any cable on the outside, at least as little as possible. I wanted all the guts to be hidden. So for me, I had the fuse box under the driver's side dash which I wanted to tap into, and I think most cars have a fuse box in the same area. Find a fuse that is only powered when the engine is off. This is important, we don't want to drain the battery when the car is off. Once you find the fuse, get yourself an Add a Circuit . Very handly little guy. I used a 7.5 Amp fuse which was more than enough current to power everything.
Once you got that in, you'll need a cigarette lighter adapter. Connect that into your add a circuit and plug your power adapter into it and, boom, everything is powered.
Now we have to deal with the audio. I wanted both devices to have access to the speakers at the same time. So I needed a mixer. The strange thing is there is no such thing available for sale that I could find. I only saw stuff for high end musical equipment and so on. So I had to build my own. There's good guide how to do that here so i won't detail the instructions here. Those instructions are to build a 4 to 1 mixer, but we only need a 2 to 1, so it's a bit more simple but the basics are the same.
OK once you have that, plug your two AUX cable into the input and get yourself an Aux cable for the output.
So is where each car is different, but you need to get a PIE interface. Just find one for whatever car you have and use it with RCA Cable to hook into your car stereo.
Bonuses
1) If you find that you're volume is pretty low (which is likely due to the mixer), you'll need to get yourself an amp and put it in line. I got a passive one from here :http://phpaudio.jigsy.com/passive-preamp and I can vouch that it works great.
2) Be aware of the ground loop. If you're hearing excess noise, you might be coupled into you car's ground loop. The telltale of this is if the pitch of the static noise changes as you accelerate. If you get that, there's an easy fix. Get yourself a ground loop isolator to put in line.
Software
To wrap up, there are a few pieces of software that make the thing even better. One is of course Tasker. Set it up so that your phone automatically turn on wifi tether when it connects to both the bluetooth of the car and to the tablet. Second is Tablet Talk. It allows you to dial, answer and make calls from the tablet. It's an awesome piece of software and has great Tasker integration.
That's all I got!

I have only one thing to say....Wow!

Dude, nice! Great thorough guide...I will seriously consider doing this!

This is awesome. Well done
I'm STILL waiting for the official dock, or a dock that charges and has aux sound through Pogo, to start my car build. So I can charge and have aux sound run through the dock.