In light of the EOL status of the Bionic, this method may no longer be the most cost effective, as the HD dock is now $24 on Amazon, before shipping. Still, this is a cheap way to use usb devices away from a tv or monitor. Please keep all of this in mind before considering this option.
Many Bionic users have wondered if they could somehow use USB host without having to buy an expensive dock. Well, I have just finished testing a method that works. Now please note it's not the sleekest or most portable of methods. Still, it works.
Test Build - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0056.jpg
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. In my testing, I have come to the conclusion that Motorola intentionally crippled the phone's OTG functions. It appears that the host mode only works when TWO priorities are met. First, the phone MUST be receiving power. Second, a hub MUST be used. If either of these is not met, the OTG mode stays offline.
Because this method requires extra power, you have to have a powered USB port nearby. Some USB power packs may put out enough power, but it's still uncertain. However, since my Scosche solar battery pack worked both for the Bionic alone and for this build, it could be possible that anything that works for the Bionic will work for the build as well. Also, I have no way of testing this in a car at the moment.
Action Shot - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0052-1.jpg
In the action shot, I am testing a 4GB SanDisk Cruzer. I did run other tests and usb keyboards and mice will work. I used a wireless Targus mouse, as well as a wireless HP mouse and keyboard. They all worked. Sadly, that is the extent of my current HID tech at the moment.
One thing I have observed in my tests is that you should have all of your rig connected before hooking it up to your phone. That includes external power. Not doing so could cause your hub to be recognized much more slowly, or not at all.
I would also like to note that although many hubs allow for AC/DC power adapters to be used, most hubs won't send power through the host port. That is why the Y cable is necessary. But don't worry! I believe that if you attach the power connector of the Y cable to one of the ports of your powered hub, this should give you all the power you need for the phone to charge and activate the OTG mode.
Here's what you need.
USB hub with mini USB port for connecting to host device($5-$20)
Y USB cable($4)
USB Type A Female-USB Micro Male adapter($1-2)
Build subtotal-$10-$26, before tax or shipping. Depending on what you already own, this could still be cheaper than an HD Dock.
All hubs with a mini usb host port should work for this build. But if there are any that don't, please give me the make and model info so I can add them to the list below.
Hubs Confirmed Unusable
None so far
Thank you for looking this through. I hope it helps.
Update 11/7/12- Still works on the 246 OTA.
silversonic1 said:
Many Bionic users have wondered if they could somehow use USB host without having to buy an expensive dock. Well, I have just finished testing a method that works.
Now please note it's not the sleakest or most portable of methods. At this writing, I am still waiting on USB OTG connectors that are known to work for other devices. However, I didn't want to hold back a successful result while waiting on an unknown.
Test Build - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0056.jpg
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. Put simply, it gives the power needed to charge the phone and to power the hub. EXTERNAL POWER IS NECESSARY. Because this method requires extra power, you have to have a powered USB port nearby. Some USB power packs may put out enough power, but it's still uncertain. However, since my Scosche solar battery pack worked both for the Bionic alone and for this build, it could be possible that other packs that work for the Bionic will work as well.
Action Shot - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0052-1.jpg
In the action shot, I am testing a 4GB SanDisk Cruzer. I did run other tests and usb keyboards and mice will work. I used a wireless Targus mouse, as well as a wireless HP mouse and keyboard. They all worked. Sadly, that is the extent of my current HID tech at the moment.
One thing I have observed in my tests is that you should have all of your rig connected before hooking up your phone. That includes external power. Not doing so could cause your hub to be recognized much more slowly, or not at all.
Here's a list of the parts used. (Will update specifics if requested.)
USB hub with USB-mini interface for host device($5-$20)
Y USB cable($4)
USB Type A Female-USB Micro Male adapter($1-2)
Build subtotal-$10-$26, before tax or shipping. That's a lot cheaper than $55-$100 on an HD dock.
Thank you for looking this through. I hope it helps.
(Also, if this thread is in the wrong place, I'm sorry. I didn't think this was necessarily an accessory thing, but rather a way to utilize a built-in feature.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats freaking awesome dude
iNsAnEmOd said:
thats freaking awesome dude
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad you see it that way. It's my hope that this works for any Motorola device that is built with a lapdock mode.
I'm hoping someone makes an app that allows me to use my tablet for a keyboard and mousepad for the webtop. I'm not a fan of hanging out within 6 feet of my tv when using the webtop.
Sent from the Evil Empire
smokedkill said:
I'm hoping someone makes an app that allows me to use my tablet for a keyboard and mousepad for the webtop. I'm not a fan of hanging out within 6 feet of my tv when using the webtop.
Sent from the Evil Empire
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, this rig works with wireless keyboards and mice. True, not the same as a tablet, but it'll get you further from the tv.
As for what you are suggesting, I thought I had heard some people were working on something similar. I'll PM you if I find it.
xda premium is insane! ... In a good way.
What Components
What is the amperage output of the power source your using? Also what is the model number of the usb hub your using? i tried a usb hub i had but it didnt work. Also did you have to bridge the pin 4 to ground on the micro plug in essence creating a otg cable?
codenamefly21 said:
What is the amperage output of the power source your using? Also what is the model number of the usb hub your using? i tried a usb hub i had but it didnt work. Also did you have to bridge the pin 4 to ground on the micro plug in essence creating a otg cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok. One thing a a time.
Power.
In the action shot, I used my laptop. However, the charger that comes with the phone works as well. That's 5.1volts, 850mA
Model of hub.
I have tested 2 different hubs at this point. At the moment, the one from the photos is unavailable, so I can't get the model info from it now. However, the other I tested is a Manhattan 4-port USB hub, model 160612.
Connector.
I made no modifications to the connectors that I have used. They were, however, already being marketed as OTG adapters. I ordered the one from the pictures on dealextreme. I recently bought newer ones from ebay that are angled up the side of the phone. The new ones work as well.
I suggest that you make sure all of your connectors are secure. A proper connection will have the phone charging while the hub receives power. If it fails to connect to a device after 1 minute when you make your first connection, disconnect the phone and than reconnect.
If you still have trouble after, please post what you're using along with a pic of your setup. With any luck, we'll get it all sorted out.
Working portable prototype
I have a working portable prototype using a 9v battery as the power source. I think the problem with the initial test is that i wasnt waiting long enough for the phone to detect the usb hub and the memory card. Now i have it working fully. I have tried 2 different usb hubs and both worked. 1 was the micro innovations usb204n it worked but was a bit bulky. The second was one i bought from a store local to my home called biglots its an E Source brand 4port usb 2.0 $7. Its nice and slim with an extra ac port on the side. The setup ill be creating is i will wire a 9v battery to a 7805 voltage regulator (with an inline power switch of course) soldered directly to the pins of the ac port. Then i will desolder the usb plug and solder in my homemade otg cable. So all you will have to do is plug it directly to the phone plug in the usb drive and then flip the power switch. i dont wanna post pictures of the ugly prototype so ill have pictures of the final product this weekend. I will say that i found out a usb hub is not needed to use a mouse but the otg cable is. Thank you silversonic for your help
codenamefly21 said:
I have a working portable prototype using a 9v battery as the power source. I think the problem with the initial test is that i wasnt waiting long enough for the phone to detect the usb hub and the memory card. Now i have it working fully. I have tried 2 different usb hubs and both worked. 1 was the micro innovations usb204n it worked but was a bit bulky. The second was one i bought from a store local to my home called biglots its an E Source brand 4port usb 2.0 $7. Its nice and slim with an extra ac port on the side. The setup ill be creating is i will wire a 9v battery to a 7805 voltage regulator (with an inline power switch of course) soldered directly to the pins of the ac port. Then i will desolder the usb plug and solder in my homemade otg cable. So all you will have to do is plug it directly to the phone plug in the usb drive and then flip the power switch. i dont wanna post pictures of the ugly prototype so ill have pictures of the final product this weekend. I will say that i found out a usb hub is not needed to use a mouse but the otg cable is. Thank you silversonic for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am certainly looking forward to seeing what all you have come up with. Just take your time. After all, I'm sure there are those who are willing to build a more stylish solution than I have up top.
Battery powered usb hub
Ok so i finished the battery powered usb hub that connects to any micro usb phone but it was to bulky using the 9v battery. So i came up with another design using an old cell phone battery. So it is rechargeable as soon as i add the on off switch it will be finished.
---------- Post added at 09:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:44 PM ----------
The usb hub was just too bulky using the 9v battery
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Rechargeable battery powered usb hub with otg cable
Here is the finished hardware. I took pictures before i seal it all up so yall could see what all i did. The usb hub has a otg cable that plugs into your phone. It has a 950mah cell phone battery and the circuitry from an emergency charger that converts 2 aa batteries (3v) to 5v. Also on the circuitry was an led flashlight so i decided to keep it in there just in case . The only problem was that the off switch that was on the circuit wouldn't shut off the power to the hub for some reason so i put a secondary switch on the power wire to the hub. I had a problem with the charger charging the battery because it charges the battery based on voltage and the capacitors were screwing that up so i put a diode on the power going into the up-scaling circuit board but not as to break the connection with the charger to battery wires.
That is certainly the most mobile solution to USB host so far. Kudos!
problem
I was having a problem soon after I put everything together. Anytime I plugged the phone in the circuit would shut down because to much amperage was being pulled from the battery and as a safety thing lithium batteries will shut down so they wont over heat I finally realized all I had to do was put an 8ohm resistor on the power wire going from the usb hub to the phone. 8ohm only because that was what I had. I tried a 1/2ohm resistor and it worked but the less amperage being pulled from the battery the longer it lasts and the circuit doesn't get as hot.
hey man, thanks a lot for your research! i hopped on this thread and about 30 seconds later i had my wireless (unifying usb receiver) logitech keyboard and mouse working
had a male->male usb cable, usb hub, and micro usb male -> full female lying around. plugged everything in and presto!
the touchscreen monitor doesn't work though for webtop
More than likely because touch screen drivers aren't as generic as mice or keyboards. But it was a good thing to try out. Mind sharing the make and model info? It will be helpful to others to know what to expect.
Mine works, cheapo Micro Center hub
I actually spoke with the OP this weekend, and before I read his reply, I was up and running. Sadly, I bought a Manhattan hub based on his findings, which was a bit pricey given the current price of normal USB hubs. I paid $15 on ebay for one, and when I got it, it didn't work. I then bought a usb Y cable from ebay as well, and that was the culprit, that cable was necessary for any hub, regardless if it uses an AC power adapter or not.
On a good note, that means that there's a good chance cheaper (and easier to find) USB hubs may work. The one I'm currently using is Gear Head brand, was $9 at Micro Center. That hub without using the included power cable, and just using the Y usb cable bought separately and the OTG adapter on ebay got me up and running.
Hmmm...now that I look, it seems the hub I got for $9 went up to $15 anyway, but here's what I used incase you have a MC closeby and don't feel like waiting for shipping. Search for SKU 280750 on Microcenter's site. I'm new here so it won't let me post URL's.
Bad news is you'll be paying a total of around $20 for this project, the good news is that may be the maximum you'd be paying, and that's if you buy a $15 usb hub. Honestly, I'd say just look around local stores for one cheaper that has a mini USB port to connect it to the phone + external power usb port (i.e. a laptop next to the phone), and if it doesn't work, return it as long as you can box it up without it looking demolished. Best of luck to everyone, but I hope my verification shows there may be more hope since the Manhattan model is fairly hard to find at a cheap price.
silversonic1 said:
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. In my testing, I have come to the conclusion that Motorola intentionally crippled the phone's OTG functions. It appears that the host mode only works when TWO priorities are met. First, the phone MUST be receiving power. Second, a hub MUST be used. If either of these is not met, the OTG mode stays offline.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd imagine they didn't want both the phone and Lapdock trying to send power over USB simultaneously.
Thanks for the guide, it was useful
mossadacity said:
I'd imagine they didn't want both the phone and Lapdock trying to send power over USB simultaneously.
Thanks for the guide, it was useful
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome. I have updated to the ICS leak, so I will have to test again, just to be sure that nothing has changed.
3d printed docking station
silversonic1 said:
More than likely because touch screen drivers aren't as generic as mice or keyboards. But it was a good thing to try out. Mind sharing the make and model info? It will be helpful to others to know what to expect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the delayed reply.
I buy generic cables from meritline.com, so there is no brand on them :good:
I think I'm the first person on Thingiverse to create an accessory for the droid bionic, what do you guys think of it:
That was iteration #1, to get the dimensions correct. From here, I can go anywhere. Do folks have any dock dreams they'd like to see come to fruition?
For a while now I've wanted to be able to use my waterproof camera to take pictures, and use my phone to upload them to the web without needing to fire up a computer to do a transfer from the SD card to the phone. This thread inspired me to finally take the leap to work up an OTG adapter. I went on Amazon to buy the Y-cable and the little adapters, but found something better.
This (board won't let me post a link because I'm new) is a USB hub that connects a phone to one of the four downstream ports with a built-in micro USB connector cable. I ordered one up, suspecting that I could mod it to be an OTG adapter. I was right.
To do the mod, the first step is to pry the endcap off the micro USB connector and slide the cover back. This exposes the soldered wire connections. One side of the connector has three wires.
The other side has one wire and an empty solder pad.
Solder a jumper wire from the empty pad to the black wire on the other side.
Then slide the connector cover back over the connector, and press the endcap back into place. If necessary, you can secure the end cap with a drop of super glue.
Next, open the case of the hub. Mine pulled right open with only finger pressure. Use a small screwdriver to remove the circuit board. It is not held by anything other than a light press fit.
This is the back side of the circuit board.
This is the chip that runs the USB hub.
I googled the chip number and downloaded the data sheet, just to be sure there were no gotchas. There weren't any. The only modification is swapping the regular and the micro USB cables. It goes without saying that this requires a very fine soldering iron and a steady hand. Desolder both cables and reattach the micro USB cable on the Host end of the circuit board.
This lets your phone control the hub. As was mentioned earlier in the thread, the Droid Bionic won't power the hub, so you need to hook up the other USB cable to the device side of the circuit board to provide power. Only hook up the power wires. Just cut the data wires short.
Then reinstall the circuit board into the case.
And press the cover back on.
It would be easy to wire a battery to the hub either by connecting to the USB port cable, through the 5VDC power input jack, or by removing the jack and hard wiring directly to the circuit board.
To use the adapter, I plug my SD card reader into the hub, plug the power USB connector into my wall adapter (or car adapter), and plug the micro USB cable into the phone (in that order). The phone immediately loads the card as an attached storage device.
Enjoy,
Todd F.
Related
i recently bought a cheap USB On-The-Go cable for the Razr hoping to be able to use my droid 4 with the DSLR controller app https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.chainfire.dslrcontroller&hl=en but i am having no luck. i'm on stock w/ root, recently did the 219 update with no change. problem is i have no solid means of troubleshooting. i have a touchpad with cm9, droid 1, droid 2, and my droid 4, but i cannot get the cable to work with any of them even for mounting a usb drive. but i'm also having trouble finding solid info on if it should work with any of them.
has anyone had any luck using usb otg with the D4?
Sent from my DROID4 using XDA
I've gotten it working with a cheap Staples USB hub, a USB Y cable (2 male USB one end, 1 male microUSB on the other end for the hub), and a USB charging brick, the USB OTG cable itself. From what I've put together, it's sensitive to where it gets power from. That's why I had trouble with it at first.
Long story short, USB OTG does work on the D4 stock rom, updated and bone stock
bohhad said:
I've gotten it working with a cheap Staples USB hub, a USB Y cable (2 male USB one end, 1 male microUSB on the other end for the hub), and a USB charging brick, the USB OTG cable itself. From what I've put together, it's sensitive to where it gets power from. That's why I had trouble with it at first.
Long story short, USB OTG does work on the D4 stock rom, updated and bone stock
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. i actually was fooling around with my touchpad last night and found out it needs external power as well. so with a y-cable from a seagate portable harddrive, i was able to test that the OTG cable i have is indeed working. however, i could not get my D4 to work using extra power from my PC, but I picked up a kodak power brick today and its charging, so here's hoping that works.
actually nevermind, after playing around with a hub and a usb stick, it decided to work with my PC supplying extra power. after that, DSLR controller worked as long as there was extra power supplied. i imagine the battery pack i picked up should work quite nicely. now to go take HDR photos of the entire world! bwhahaha
Glad you got it working. From my reading, the thing to do is get power on the +5v rail of the micro-usb 'input' port, that will allow power to flow from the USB hubs power brick, thru the hub, up to the phone. Can't help you with that however, it's a bit beyond me.
My problem is simple, i'm tethering my Wifi Nexus 10 to my Galaxy S3 and the S3 just doesn't have the staying power of the tablet and the AP is battery intensive.
I have considered:
Extended battery (unofficial) - don't want the bulk.
Extended battery (official) - not cost effective.
The other option would be usb otg and charger cable but I'd like a single cable if possible.
To make it clear - I'm looking for a double ended micro usb (B) cable.
If anyone knows of a reason this wouldn't work please do say
You could use this adapter with your original cable to see if it dies the job.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Right-Angle...006572?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item27ccd180ac
I have the same setup (nexus10 and s3) let us know if it does work.
You could try monoprice.com. I get all of my cords and such from them.
eBuyer tend to be pretty good for this stuff.
Just FYI, I tried this using an OTG adapter and a standard USB-A to USB-B micro cable. Depending on which side I plug the OTG adapter into, the S3 charges the Nexus (when the adapter is plugged into the S3) or vice versa (when the adapter is plugged into the N10).
EDIT: It would be interesting to try though what would happen if one was to connect the four pins (VCC, D+, D-, GND) directly to one another, with the ID pin being left unconnected (since that is what a Micro-B to Micro-B cable would most likely do). My guess is that nothing will happen, since neither of the devices assumes a master/slave state and so it doesn't know that it should supply power to the other device. I guess I need to order some Micro-B plugs at Digi-Key and whip up a cable...
--fbrozovic
Didn't know we had our own thread now.
Anyways so I've been trying to hook my active up to my monitor -- an ASUS VX238H -- and I finally got the correct MHL to HDMI adapter, but I still can't get it to work and I've tried three different HDMI cables. With this Sypder C Class cable and this Belkin cable I have the phone would detect being plugged up to the HDMI, but the monitor wouldn't recognize it, and with this off brand cable when I plug it in my monitor goes black (and it has two HDMI inputs with my computer plugged into HDMI1 and the phone plugged into HDMI2). Is there a specific cable I need or perhaps cables without a specific feature (such as Ethernet)?
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
dibeachdude said:
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I read that was only needed for wireless connections and that HDMI connections didn't need that. Guess I'll give it a shot after work and see if that is the issue, but still I don't understand why the one cable would cause my monitor to go black despite me not having selected the HDMI2 input...
I have a cable left over from my Motorola Atrix 4G. I will give it a try tonight to see if I get any better results.
dibeachdude said:
This is not intended to be a sarcastic response, but did you enable "Screen Mirroring"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I tried enabling Screen Mirroring but it told me to disconnect the HDMI cable first. Guess I'll just have to wait till I get paid again and get a different HDMI cable to try with (one without Ethernet) and see if I have better results.
I was reading an article from pcmag about screen mirroring (Google "How to Connect Your Samsung Galaxy S 4 to Your TV"). It said something about using a specific MHL to HDMI connector and then connecting a separate HDMI cable and a power cable. I'm not sure why you would need all of the extra cables, especially the power cable. I would think that the digital audio and video signals would be low enough power that it would use less power than the backlight. Maybe there is something specific about the pinout of the Samsung USB that requires that particular cable. If I get a chance to try my other cable tonight, I will post the results. Good luck.
dibeachdude said:
I was reading an article from pcmag about screen mirroring (Google "How to Connect Your Samsung Galaxy S 4 to Your TV"). It said something about using a specific MHL to HDMI connector and then connecting a separate HDMI cable and a power cable. I'm not sure why you would need all of the extra cables, especially the power cable. I would think that the digital audio and video signals would be low enough power that it would use less power than the backlight. Maybe there is something specific about the pinout of the Samsung USB that requires that particular cable. If I get a chance to try my other cable tonight, I will post the results. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had posted in the S4 QA section there are two different types of MHL-HDMI adapters.
A 5-pin variation for the older generation of phones like the S2 and the Infuse.
A 11-pin variation for the newer generation of phones like the S3 and S4.
The adapter does need some power to power it since it is an electronic device but not much. The rest of the power that's not used by the adapter is used to charge the phone.
I initially bought a 5-pin adapter because I didn't research enough before hand (it was a bit of an impulse buy) and so I didn't know there were two different types. I then bought an official Samsung MHL-HDMI 11-pin adpater which is what I've been using now.
I really think the issue is with the cables I'm trying to use so when I do get paid again I'm going to buy a HDMI cable with just the base A/V transfer and see if that works.
Please ignore what I said altogether. I assumed that I had a cable from my previous phone that would work for HDMI, but the cable that I have isn't even a USB connector. It has a completely different plug on it. I never used it on my last phone, and I didn't even remember the phone having two different plugs. Now, I am wanting to get the proper cable and try it. I have always thought that it would be cool to run XBMC on my phone.
Found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-MHL-To-HDTV-Smart-Adapter-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S-III-EPL-3FHUBEGSTA-/261233789076?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3cd2bf4894
I will post my results when it comes in.
dibeachdude said:
Please ignore what I said altogether. I assumed that I had a cable from my previous phone that would work for HDMI, but the cable that I have isn't even a USB connector. The one that I have is an entirely different interface. I never used it on my last phone, and I didn't even remember the phone having two different plugs. Now, I am wanting to the proper cable and try it. I have always that the it would be cool to run XBMC on my phone.
Found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-MHL-To-HDTV-Smart-Adapter-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S-III-EPL-3FHUBEGSTA-/261233789076?pt=US_Cell_Phone_PDA_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3cd2bf4894
I will post my results when it comes in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the one I have now.
My cable came in today, and it works perfectly. It is the original Samsung (EPL-3FHUBEGSTA) MHL to HDMI cable. I noticed that they raised the price on ebay by $5.00. They can still be found for around $11 or $12 though. All I did was plug mine in to the phone, the power cable, and HDMI, and then, I selected "Screen Mirroring" in settings. The problem may be with you monitor. I have seen some monitors that do not connect with certain HDMI devices. I think it has something to do with supporting 1080i vs 1080p. I've never been able to test the theory, but at work we have a large plasma TV that very few devices (almost none) will connect to. I have found a few other, usually smaller, monitors that seem to do the same thing. Good luck.
dibeachdude said:
My cable came in today, and it works perfectly. It is the original Samsung (EPL-3FHUBEGSTA) MHL to HDMI cable. I noticed that they raised the price on ebay by $5.00. They can still be found for around $11 or $12 though. All I did was plug mine in to the phone, the power cable, and HDMI, and then, I selected "Screen Mirroring" in settings. The problem may be with you monitor. I have seen some monitors that do not connect with certain HDMI devices. I think it has something to do with supporting 1080i vs 1080p. I've never been able to test the theory, but at work we have a large plasma TV that very few devices (almost none) will connect to. I have found a few other, usually smaller, monitors that seem to do the same thing. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you using a HDMI cable with Ethernet or just an A/V HDMI cable? All the HDMI cables I have have Ethernet except maybe my 360 HDMI cable. I'm going to order this other cable online and try with that and if it doesn't work then I'm just going to assume my monitor is like what you said. Just a fyi it's supposed to support 1080p.
Ok just thought I'd provide an update. I got the Belkin A/V (no Ethernet) cable in today and it too didn't work so I'm just going to chalk it up to my monitor not supporting the MHL signal. I suppose I shouldn't be too surprised since it is a computer monitor after all.
Note: You will still need a NON-POWERED OTG cable though, but there's no need to cut it.
Having only a non-powered OTG cable and eager to hack my Chromecast, I went looking for other cables/adaptors lying around my house in an attempt to find an alternative. Here's what I came up with.
Things you will need:
NON-POWERED OTG Cable
Male-to-Male USB Cable
USB HUB
Steps:
1. Connect the micro USB end of the OTG cable to the Chromecast and the other end to the male end of the USB hub.
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"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
2. Insert your Flashcast thumbdrive into one of the ports of the USB hub and the Male-to-Male USB cable into another port.
3. Insert the other end of the Male-to-Male USB cable to your preferred USB power source. (I used a portable charger for convenience sake.)
There are many other possible solutions depending on the cables/adaptors you manage to find. The point I'm trying to make is, instead of sourcing for a rare cable days or weeks of shipping time away from you, an immediate alternative might just around the corner waiting for your discovery.
yangzai said:
Note: You will still need a NON-POWERED OTG cable though, but there's no need to cut it.
Having only a non-powered OTG cable and eager to hack my Chromecast, I went looking for other cables/adaptors lying around my house in an attempt to find an alternative. Here's what I came up with.
Things you will need:
NON-POWERED OTG Cable
Male-to-Male USB Cable
USB HUB
Steps:
1. Connect the micro USB end of the OTG cable to the Chromecast and the other end to the male end of the USB hub.
2. Insert your Flashcast thumbdrive into one of the ports of the USB hub and the Male-to-Male USB cable into another port.
3. Insert the other end of the Male-to-Male USB cable to your preferred USB power source. (I used a portable charger for convenience sake.)
There are many other possible solutions depending on the cables/adaptors you manage to find. The point I'm trying to make is, instead of sourcing for a rare cable days or weeks of shipping time away from you, an immediate alternative might just around the corner waiting for your discovery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did something very similar myself too, has worked using 2 or 3 hubs. Worth noting a cheaper crappy hub is far more likely to work for this than a posh expensive one, as some have protections to prevent power going the wrong way through the hub, as I believe this is specified in some of the standards.
Literally right Before reading this thread I successfully rooted my Chromecast with this method, but to note my usb hub is powered by an ac adapter, i assumed this was a requirement.
Sent from New Nexus 7
This will only work if your hub will backfeed. I had to use a external hard drive power y cable.
hearnia_2K said:
Did something very similar myself too, has worked using 2 or 3 hubs. Worth noting a cheaper crappy hub is far more likely to work for this than a posh expensive one, as some have protections to prevent power going the wrong way through the hub, as I believe this is specified in some of the standards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sfetaz said:
Literally right Before reading this thread I successfully rooted my Chromecast with this method, but to note my usb hub is powered by an ac adapter, i assumed this was a requirement.
Sent from New Nexus 7
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
jercb123 said:
This will only work if your hub will backfeed. I had to use a external hard drive power y cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly, mine didn't come with an AC adaptor, had to improvise. Like what hearnia_2K said, most cheap hubs should work, and posh ones will likely come together with an AC adaptor anyway.
Worked great with a rockband USB hub.
blitz_7 said:
Worked great with a rockband USB hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just bought a Belkin powered USB hub from local Walmart on clearance for $4. Thought it was a bust till I took jercb123's advice and used a Y USB cord from one of my external HDD's.Used the other end of the Y cable plugged into one my phone wall chargers and took with first try. Thanks for this.
Did I screw up?
I went out and purchased a non-powered otg cable and before reading any posts( I know I should have read thru this thread a couple of times, but I didn't) I started connecting things to each other. the light on the chrome cast was white then it went red. I unplugged everything then connected the chromecast to my TV via HDMI. the screen said it was updating and got as far as 10% before I unplugged it. I waited a few minutes then plugged into my tv again and the screen said updating, 0% then 10%. I unplugged it again.
A couple of facts to consider:
1. I did not yet down load the new image and burn it to a usb drive.
2. the chrome cast, before the latest connection to the HDMI of the TV, was still
not updated.
Did I some how allow the update to happen? what should I do? do I give up on rooting this for now? Thanks for your answers and help!!!( I hope I made some sense!)
laserbiz said:
I went out and purchased a non-powered otg cable and before reading any posts( I know I should have read thru this thread a couple of times, but I didn't) I started connecting things to each other. the light on the chrome cast was white then it went red. I unplugged everything then connected the chromecast to my TV via HDMI. the screen said it was updating and got as far as 10% before I unplugged it. I waited a few minutes then plugged into my tv again and the screen said updating, 0% then 10%. I unplugged it again.
A couple of facts to consider:
1. I did not yet down load the new image and burn it to a usb drive.
2. the chrome cast, before the latest connection to the HDMI of the TV, was still
not updated.
Did I some how allow the update to happen? what should I do? do I give up on rooting this for now? Thanks for your answers and help!!!( I hope I made some sense!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Once the update has been downloaded, there is no easy way to root the device. The only way to get out of recovery mode is to let it update, unless you're willing to disassemble the device. If you are that desperate to root, you can attempt to force a USB boot by using the method described here. However, that method is quite invasive and possibly dangerous, and I can't be held responsible if using it breaks your Chromecast.
Hmm i followed the methods mentioned here but flashcast isnt getting loaded My chromecast is new and hasnt been turned on since I ordered it last month ( I've been away) so its still new in the box. I also have a USB 4 port belkin hub with its own power source. I have that plugged into the wall...cable to the hub....USB stick in 1 port with the flashcast bin loaded onto it....other port has usb cable to chromecast which is then hooked to TV. I hold button on cast and connect power..Red light comes on..(still holding button)....nothing happening...I got like 3 dots on my screen but nothing happens even after holding down for 30+ seconds. If i dont press the button on cast and connect power..then it just boots normally ideas?
Lpuboy87 said:
Hmm i followed the methods mentioned here but flashcast isnt getting loaded My chromecast is new and hasnt been turned on since I ordered it last month ( I've been away) so its still new in the box. I also have a USB 4 port belkin hub with its own power source. I have that plugged into the wall...cable to the hub....USB stick in 1 port with the flashcast bin loaded onto it....other port has usb cable to chromecast which is then hooked to TV. I hold button on cast and connect power..Red light comes on..(still holding button)....nothing happening...I got like 3 dots on my screen but nothing happens even after holding down for 30+ seconds. If i dont press the button on cast and connect power..then it just boots normally ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Chromecast needs to be connected to the USB-B port of the hub using a regular OTG cable. See my post here for more information.
tchebb said:
The Chromecast needs to be connected to the USB-B port of the hub using a regular OTG cable. See my post here for more information.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then it dosnt turn on. I put the chromecast with a regular OTG cable connected to it connected to usb to mini B connector to Hub....flash drive in other of the 4 USB ports on hub...and port was powered with power cable that it came with.
This is the HUB I have
Lpuboy87 said:
Then it dosnt turn on. I put the chromecast with a regular OTG cable connected to it connected to usb to mini B connector to Hub....flash drive in other of the 4 USB ports on hub...and port was powered with power cable that it came with.
This is the HUB I have
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In any case you can't have both the chromecast and the flashdrive on the ports - they cant communicate over the ports. One of them must be on the male end of the hub.
Any chance to get this working without a male-to-male usb cable? I have an unpovered otg cable and few powered and unpowered usb hubs.....
thx
maarawoe said:
Any chance to get this working without a male-to-male usb cable? I have an unpovered otg cable and few powered and unpowered usb hubs.....
thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It may work with certain powered hubs. Use the OTG cable to connect the USB-B port of the hub to the Chromecast, plug your USB drive into one of the USB-A ports on the hub, and then connect the hub's power. If the Chromecast turns on, you should be able to hold the button to boot from the USB drive.
tchebb said:
It may work with certain powered hubs. Use the OTG cable to connect the USB-B port of the hub to the Chromecast, plug your USB drive into one of the USB-A ports on the hub, and then connect the hub's power. If the Chromecast turns on, you should be able to hold the button to boot from the USB drive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm seems non of my hubs is able to backfeed the chromecast to turn it on so no other way than wayting for the Y otg cable...
Male to male usb cable seems to be more exotic part of any household than regular or Y otg
do what i did, i had a few spare male /female usb cables, i chopped 2 up and took the male ends and hooked them up together then taped them up XD it worked great !
maarawoe said:
Hmm seems non of my hubs is able to backfeed the chromecast to turn it on so no other way than wayting for the Y otg cable...
Male to male usb cable seems to be more exotic part of any household than regular or Y otg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you show me a pic of your hub, it might be the one i have, i have this one
So I soldered a male to male usb cable but still no luck - d-link or belkin hubs I have are not able to pass the power to the otg...
Probably no other way than wait for the Y otg...
find a pic on google of your hub, cause if you look on mine the power plug is that little first one on the short side the mini usb , i hooked the unpowered otg cable to that and then to my Chromecast, then i put the usb drive on the big usb port on the bottom and the usb cable that would deliver power to the hub by connecting that one to the usb port on the top port of hub then to my pc. at first i was doing it the other way around and it wouldnt take, i would get those dots and a white screen then once i did it like that it worked.
This thing is pretty new, but has anyone been able to make it work with USB OTG ethernet adapters and hubs? Whenever I try the ones I have I end up on the error screen where it tells you to plug it into the wall instead of a TV USB port. I realize the ethernet adapter is available for pre-order, but that's $20 I would rather not spend when I have a few USB ethernet adapters laying around. Besides, it won't have USB ports.
The reviews I have seen say you need a high-wattage adapter. The packaged one is not strong enough to use through a hub.
Note10.1Dude said:
The reviews I have seen say you need a high-wattage adapter. The packaged one is not strong enough to use through a hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw those and it doesn't make much sense to me. This has to be an artificial limitation by Google to force people to use a wall wart instead of a TV USB port to avoid customer service headaches. I highly doubt this thing needs that much power to operate. I tried an old OnePlus Dash Charger (5V 4A output) with a simple powered OTG dongle and still got nothing.
Cheesethief said:
I saw those and it doesn't make much sense to me. This has to be an artificial limitation by Google to force people to use a wall wart instead of a TV USB port to avoid customer service headaches. I highly doubt this thing needs that much power to operate. I tried an old OnePlus Dash Charger (5V 4A output) with a simple powered OTG dongle and still got nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its looking for a power supply capable of delivering 1.5A of current.
The CPU in the thing is a QUAD-core Cortex-A55. Specifically, Amlogic S905X3. That's a pretty substantial CPU, so I don't think that 1.5A is that much of overkill. If you look at other tv boxes with the same CPU, you'll also see that they typically include 2A power supplies. In order to ensure that the power supply is capable of this, they are enforcing USB-PD profile 1 compliance.
Now USB-PD requires digital communication between the device and the power supply. If your "OnePlus Dash Charger" is not compliant with USB-PD, or if your "simple powered OTG dongle" blocks the communications, then the TV dongle will assume that you have it plugged into a standard 500 mA power adapter and complain to you about it being insufficient.
Oh, and the SoC itself has a TDP of 5W (1A at 5V). Add a few more parts like RAM and UFS and you can easily draw more than that, plus, you always want your power supply to have some room to spare -- not run it at its limits. That clearly puts you into 1.5A *MINIMUM* territory.
https://gadgetversus.com/processor/amlogic-s905x3-specs/
---------- Post added at 02:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------
Note10.1Dude said:
The reviews I have seen say you need a high-wattage adapter. The packaged one is not strong enough to use through a hub.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In order to prevent yourself from sounding like a doofus, a "watt" is a unit of POWER. So when you are talking about the adapter, use the words "high-POWER". "wattage" is very awkward.
96carboard said:
Its looking for a power supply capable of delivering 1.5A of current.
The CPU in the thing is a QUAD-core Cortex-A55. Specifically, Amlogic S905X3. That's a pretty substantial CPU, so I don't think that 1.5A is that much of overkill. If you look at other tv boxes with the same CPU, you'll also see that they typically include 2A power supplies. In order to ensure that the power supply is capable of this, they are enforcing USB-PD profile 1 compliance.
Now USB-PD requires digital communication between the device and the power supply. If your "OnePlus Dash Charger" is not compliant with USB-PD, or if your "simple powered OTG dongle" blocks the communications, then the TV dongle will assume that you have it plugged into a standard 500 mA power adapter and complain to you about it being insufficient.
Oh, and the SoC itself has a TDP of 5W (1A at 5V). Add a few more parts like RAM and UFS and you can easily draw more than that, plus, you always want your power supply to have some room to spare -- not run it at its limits. That clearly puts you into 1.5A *MINIMUM* territory.
https://gadgetversus.com/processor/amlogic-s905x3-specs/
---------- Post added at 02:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:09 PM ----------
In order to prevent yourself from sounding like a doofus, a "watt" is a unit of POWER. So when you are talking about the adapter, use the words "high-POWER". "wattage" is very awkward.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All well and good maybe, but PD Profile 1 basically states that the wall wart provided is not up to spec.
BUT, that's actually a good thing because this is not a PD device, period. I can prove that very simply now. I am using a 5v 3a barrel jack wall wart to power it via a hub.
Specifically this hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QN3YYXM/
And specifically this powersupply:
https://pine64.com/product/rock64-pinebook-pro-pine-h64-5v-3a-switching-power-supply/?v=0446c16e2e66
Unfortunately, I cannot seem to get it to pass data through.
Edit: I did buy the hub to test, but the Rock64 powersupply is one I've had for a few years because of my sbc hobby.
EDIT2: Further testing shows that using the included barrel jack to usb cable (that comes with the above hub) with the Google provided psu works just fine too. So no need to buy the barrell jack wall wart above. Still no data passthrough though. The hub works just fine on Windows.
From my understanding, it is not USB PD compliant, but it does do some sort of testing of the connected power adapter to make sure it can output enough power. My guess is that some adapters get in the way of the full output of the connected wall wart. Which doesn't surprise me.
Hi, I've just received my new Cromecast with Google TV this.
Already I've managed to connect with this : https://www.amazon.de/-/nl/gp/product/B084G23KL5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power I get from my LG OLED TV USB port via a simple USB-A to USB-C cable.
Routing: LG OLED USB port --> USB Hub --> Chromecast (connected via PD output of hub).
I am using a hub too. This one specifically, which has ethernet built in:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX2LW35
It works fine, and it's powered by a 6 port USB-A charging station (otherwise I'd have too many charging bricks in one spot):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q6DZBIQ
I haven't used the ethernet but I have other accessories connected, including a 400gb micro sd adopted as native storage. The more accessories you have connected to the hub, the more power you're going to want to have access to (ie the TV's USB port might not supply enough power).
Your guys' options are spendy. I got it done with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08C5FWQND/
You can plug any old hub into it you have laying around and it'll (probably) work.
I bought this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z7H3GJK/
It works fine with the google-supplied power brick plugged into the hub. Ethernet works as well, 1Gb (I think Google's adapter is only 100Mb) However, the activity light is Neuralyzer white. Also have seen reports that if you leave the hub powered and connected to your network without the chromecast, it will cause problems. Otherwise well built.
I bought this one $12.99
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01COH17PS/
There was a comment saying it works, arrives tomorrow.. I'll update post if it really works.
Update
It works, just not with the power adapter that comes with the Chromecast with Google TV. I had to use a different one.
This one also works with ethernet and sd card (and the default power supply):
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B08BNQLRTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
robojerk said:
I bought this one $12.99
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01COH17PS/
There was a comment saying it works, arrives tomorrow.. I'll update post if it really works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine arrives tomorrow as well... Any update? Did you need to use a different power supply? I am guessing it may depend on what you have plugged in. I am planning on just using a single flash drive for expanded app storage. I already have a networked drive for media.
jhedfors said:
Mine arrives tomorrow as well... Any update? Did you need to use a different power supply? I am guessing it may depend on what you have plugged in. I am planning on just using a single flash drive for expanded app storage. I already have a networked drive for media.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It works but the power adapter that came with the new Chromecast with Google TV didn't work. Once I swapped it out with a more powerful one we're all good.
96carboard said:
Its looking for a power supply capable of delivering 1.5A of current.
The CPU in the thing is a QUAD-core Cortex-A55. Specifically, Amlogic S905X3. That's a pretty substantial CPU, so I don't think that 1.5A is that much of overkill. If you look at other tv boxes with the same CPU, you'll also see that they typically include 2A power supplies. In order to ensure that the power supply is capable of this, they are enforcing USB-PD profile 1 compliance.
Now USB-PD requires digital communication between the device and the power supply. If your "OnePlus Dash Charger" is not compliant with USB-PD, or if your "simple powered OTG dongle" blocks the communications, then the TV dongle will assume that you have it plugged into a standard 500 mA power adapter and complain to you about it being insufficient.
Oh, and the SoC itself has a TDP of 5W (1A at 5V). Add a few more parts like RAM and UFS and you can easily draw more than that, plus, you always want your power supply to have some room to spare -- not run it at its limits. That clearly puts you into 1.5A *MINIMUM* territory.
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey there got got myself a usb hub for new chromecast too.
this hub
So far it works, but not the card readers.. Have to put the micro sd into an usb cardreader an plug it in the usb port of the hub to get the chromecast recognise the storage... Sucks yes
When booting i get this screen (dont know why upsidedown)
It will boot and behave normal, as long i dont attach any usb device.
It will also connect my microsoft bluetooth keyboard, which is pretty handy when you have to type something.
So i want to get an power supply that can provide enough power...
I dont know if its possible to overpower the chromecast and overheat, but i guess it is.
So do you think this
power supply
Would do the job?
Cheers
SchWeinSAuG said:
Hey there got got myself a usb hub for new chromecast too.
this hub
So far it works, but not the card readers.. Have to put the micro sd into an usb cardreader an plug it in the usb port of the hub to get the chromecast recognise the storage... Sucks yes
When booting i get this screen (dont know why upsidedown)
It will boot and behave normal, as long i dont attach any usb device.
It will also connect my microsoft bluetooth keyboard, which is pretty handy when you have to type something.
So i want to get an power supply that can provide enough power...
I dont know if its possible to overpower the chromecast and overheat, but i guess it is.
So do you think this
power supply
Would do the job?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Won't hurt it in any way, but seriously overkill. 60 watts is enough to run a laptop.
joooker16 said:
Hi, I've just received my new Cromecast with Google TV this.
Already I've managed to connect with this : https://www.amazon.de/-/nl/gp/product/B084G23KL5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power I get from my LG OLED TV USB port via a simple USB-A to USB-C cable.
Routing: LG OLED USB port --> USB Hub --> Chromecast (connected via PD output of hub).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you tell me if UNEEDE USB C Hub 8 in 1 works with default Chromecast power supply? Thanks
el_easy said:
Can you tell me if UNEEDE USB C Hub 8 in 1 works with default Chromecast power supply? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. As I understand, if it happens to work, you could risk damaging your devices.
jhedfors said:
Yes. As I understand, if it happens to work, you could risk damaging your devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I asked ,because i ordered an ABLEWE USB C Hub 8 in 1 Typ C Hub and did not work : https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B07YZ4THMK/ref=pd_sbs_147_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07YZ4THMK&pd_rd_r=e2bc156d-56aa-4606-8dab-cdf0b3432474&pd_rd_w=3gzsc&pd_rd_wg=yDZuO&pf_rd_p=17269923-e95e-42b2-b8e1-f208b58f5815&pf_rd_r=87P69MVAPFG0JQEM0RN5&psc=1&refRID=87P69MVAPFG0JQEM0RN5
even with different power supply, thats why for my second try, Im very careful what to order.. if anyone can help to choose a proper USB C Hub that works with default Chromecast power supply from Amazon Germany , i will appreciated..Thanks
el_easy said:
I asked ,because i ordered an ABLEWE USB C Hub 8 in 1 Typ C Hub and did not work : https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B07YZ...FG0JQEM0RN5&psc=1&refRID=87P69MVAPFG0JQEM0RN5
even with different power supply, thats why for my second try, Im very careful what to order.. if anyone can help to choose a proper USB C Hub that works with default Chromecast power supply from Amazon Germany , i will appreciated..Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is not recommended to use the Chromecast power adapter with a USB hub, as it does not provide enough power.
Find a more powerful adapter.
This is the hub that I am using in the US:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COJ0MDY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
jhedfors said:
Yes. As I understand, if it happens to work, you could risk damaging your devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You won't damage your device. Don't spread this kind of nonsense.
---------- Post added at 04:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:30 PM ----------
el_easy said:
I asked ,because i ordered an ABLEWE USB C Hub 8 in 1 Typ C Hub and did not work even with different power supply, thats why for my second try, Im very careful what to order.. if anyone can help to choose a proper USB C Hub that works with default Chromecast power supply from Amazon Germany , i will appreciated..Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That should work. What are the details on the second power adapter you tried? The 1.5A adapter these CC's are shipped with are pretty marginal for the power demands. You probably want something that can feed 3A or more at 5V. And remember that Chinese labels are often lies, so even if it says 3A, it could be 0.5A.