Related
Nexus 5 Calibration:
Welcome to this thread: This thread is all about colors and displays. Nexus 5 only though!
- “Easy part: Apps, profiles” is for those that just want to mess around with some of the user created profiles and then move on. You can find the frequently asked questions about the profiles here!
- “More technical part” is for those who are more interested in this topic. Reading this part is recommend before calibrating.
- “Calibration” is for those who want to create a profile themselves (requires colorimeter or spectrometer).
- “Testing without a colorimeter” is for those without a colorimeter, but are still anxious to mess around ^^
- “Current state of development” shows the questions we don’t know the answer to yet.
Click “Click to show content” to extend the information!
Easy part: Apps, profiles
How do I get a color calibration app?
Make sure you have a compatible kernel first, like Franco's
Either use:
Nexus Display Control (Free)
FKU (paid)
Faux123 Kernel Enhancement (paid)
Kcontrol (paid)
How do I get profiles?
They are pre-installed! Just tap:
FKU: Color Utils - Load a color profile - Import preloaded profiles
NDC: Load a color profile - Import preloaded profiles
Faux: No need to do anything!
KControl: Not available
Newest collection of profiles.
Link 1 (Be sure to give a thanks to @vomer)
Link 2 (Be sure to give a thanks to @The Gingerbread Man)
If you download a new profile, you have to put them in a specific location:
FKU: /franco.kernel_updater/color_profiles
NDC: /nexus_display_control/color_profiles
Faux: /com.teamkang.fauxdisplay/profiles
After this, you can select and apply the profile.
How do I apply a profile?
Nexus Display Control App or Franco Kernel Updater App:
1) Tap 'Load a color profile' (Under color utils in FKU)
2) Select your profile
3) Hit Apply
4) Turn screen off and on to view result*
FauxClock:
1) Color/Gamma – Gamma Profiles
2) Select your profile
3) Hit Apply
4) Turn screen off and on to view result*
KControl: Not available
* On some kernels not required
Which profile is the best?
There is no best profile unless you buy a colorimeter. Here is why:
Every display is different, so the profiles that are perfect for one display will probably not be as perfect on your display.
Everything is subjective: You might like a more blueish screen, you might want accurate colors. All depends on you what is perfect
Even if you have a seemingly perfect profile, you can't test it without a colorimeter
How do I test my profile?
This is a tricky question. I have tried to develop ways to test a profile without the use of a colorimeter and I failed. It's impossible. You will never know the exact gamma, color temperature, etc etc.
There are things you can test however! Move on to part: Testing without a colorimeter!
But if you do have a colorimeter, check out: Calibration (requires colorimeter)
I love this profile. How do I set it as standard?
Check the checkbox 'Set colors on boot' in the app. (It’s a slider in FauxClock)
Problems:
Help I screwed up! How do I revert?!
Rebooting the device resets the display to stock settings (unless you ticked ‘Set on Boot’)
Or load up the stock profile (in attachments below).
(If the previous don’t work, your issue is more severe. Reflashing kernel, rom should work. If not, you have a hardware issue. Google for more info or RMA)
I don't see any difference! Why?
1) Do you have root and is root applied to the app?
2) Did you turn your screen off and on?
3) Note that the differences can be small.
4) Clearing app data and cache can do magic.
If none of these solutions work, verify that colors do change with the profile "Test your settings" (Download below)
If the profile and app work, you should get a very blue screen. (Revert by rebooting or loading other profile)
If the profile doesn't work, please search thread first, then ask questions. Your question has most likely been answered already!
The app doesn't work! :crying::crying:
1) Verify you are using a compatible kernel! Franco/Faux/Elementalx are all compatible. There are certainly more compatible kernels. Just check in that kernel thread if the kernel is compatible.
2) Verify that you have root and that the app gets root.
Please search the thread before posting! Usually your question has already been answered 5 times.
If I want to load a profile, the app force quits. Help!
The profile is invalid. Redownload it or use another profile. If this doesn’t work, try clearing data and cache of the app.
More technical part: Gamma, color temperature and colorimeters
Definitions you must at least heard of
Luminance
Luminance is a photometric unit to describe the amount of light coming from the screen. It is usually measured in cd/m2 (also called nits). It is comparable to brightness, but brightness is the perceived luminance (so subjective luminance you could say). Example: A display with a luminance around 100 nits is not so bright in the sun, but very bright in the dark. The luminance in both examples is the same, while the perceived brightness is not.
Gamma
The eye has a non-linear response to light. To correct this, gamma correction is applied.Without doing this, images look too light. Increasing gamma, means increasing the saturation. More info
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Color temperature
Color temperature is basically a measure of the color hue of white light that is measured in Kelvin (K). When you increase the color temperature, the hue becomes more blueish, decreasing it will result in a more yellowish/reddish screen.
RGB
When you are looking at a digital image, you are looking at a lot of pixels that make up this image. Each of those pixels consists out of a three sets of RGB numbers. These numbers can range from 0 (black) to 255 (white). For example: 255,255,255 will produce white, whilst 255,0,0 will produce red. RGB values themselves do not say much. You have to tell in what colorspace there are. These different colorspaces have different gamuts. Webcontent and our display use sRGB.
Here is a RGB color mixer to get a grasp on RGB.
More info on gamuts
Saturation
The vividness of a color. This can range from black/white to neon like colors.
Contrast ratio
The contrast ratio is the ratio between the brightest color (white) and the darkest color (black) your display can produce. Our Nexus 5 displays usually have around 920 (based on various measurements I have seen).
Useful links for more information:
Wikipedia:
Luminance
Gamma
Color Temperature
RGB
Gamut
Saturation and more
Contrast Ratio
Cambridge in color
GammaFAQ by Charles Poynton (expert) (Might be a bit outdated as 1998)
ColorFAQ by Charles Poynton (expert) (Might be a bit outdated as 1998)
Some color math by Bruce Lindbloom
Saturation vs. Vibrancy (vid)
How LCD works (hardware)(vid)
What do the parameters mean?
In total there are 24 parameters (of which 23) are displayed. Each parameter controls the luminance of a part of the RGB range. All other aspects (gamma, color temperature, saturation, contrast ratio) are derived from that. As stated, each parameter controls a portion of the range. Shown in this image are the ranges:
Note that the ranges do overlap in certain values. This means that one RGB value can be controlled by two parameters. (But never three!)
Let's take parameter 11 as an example: Parameter 11 has a range of 144 to 202. These RGB values can be altered by altered parameter 11. Most affected by parameter 11 is RGB(175). This RGB value will change the most when altering parameter 11. Respectively, RGB(144) and RGB(202) will change the least.
Negative and positive?
Also you might have noticed, there are two arrays for red, two for green and two for blue. Why? It’s for more precision:
These two arrays get combined to form one resulting figure. It’s not as simple as 10 and 20 become 15. Therefore I recommend keeping the difference between the parameters small in order to avoid confusion. Also the negative and positive are not equal. 10 & 20 do not produce the same outcome as 20 & 10.
Overall it’s best to keep the same when calibrating initially. But when you need a certain luminance you can’t achieve when they are the same, divert them. This method works the easiest and you don’t lose track of your changes so easily.
The White Point
The White Point is an odd setting. It does not control the color temperature in any way, form of shape. It’s also highly doubtable that the LG devs ment the white point in the curves adjustment tools of Photoshop. Currently the exact function of it is unknown, but what we know is the following:
Although the range can be 0 to 255, it actually ranges till 63. After that it loops. (0=64=128=192 and 63=127=191=255)
It’s main purpose is to allow more control over the RGB curve. Instead of controlling ranges of RGB curves, the White Point is an overall setting that adjusts every channel and every RGB value.
The recommend setting is between 29 and 33 and the middle value is 31
What would be the ideal settings?
When you capture an image with a camera, you want to see the same colors on your screen as the colors in real life right? Well, that is called an accurate screen.
Though, a lot of manufacturers don't provide accurate colors. Why not? Because the masses like punchy colors with a higher color temperature. The truth is that we have become accustomed to those colors. An accurate display seems a bit yellow nowadays. But there is a way out! Once you experience a true accurate profile, the other profiles seem really blue. Like all the things in life, we get accustomed to it.
An accurate profile would contain:
Banding: None
Color Temperature: 6500K
Gamma: 2.2 - 2.4
Properly saturated colors (Automatically achieved with calibrated gamma)
Contrast ratio: Higher is better, but above 930 is already pretty good for our LCD displays
How accurate is stock?
Actually, stock is quite accurate in comparison to other phones. There is certainly room for improvement, but they definitely tried to calibrate our screen correctly. The color temperature is around 6500K (+- 300K). Gamma is a bit too low (2.0), but in comparison to other phones it is quite good.
I like the punchy colors, can I keep them?
Of course! Your display, your rules. Having a higher color temperature isn't necessarily bad, though you must compensate a little bit. The changed settings would:
Color Temperature: 7500K
Gamma: 2.3 - 2.5
Note that for compensation for the higher color temperature, you increase the gamma a bit. This also works the same way around for lower color temperatures. Also, the same things like no banding still apply
Calibration (requires colorimeter)
Requirements for calibration
A colorimeter (Like Xrite i1 Display Pro (recommended by Display Expert Francois Simond))
HCFR
Faux Gamma App or any other app that can edit these parameters (Like Kcontrol or FKU)
Microsoft Excel or any other sheet program (Like Libre Office)
Nexus 5 with compatible kernel
Time
At which brightness should I use to test?
Unless you use autobrightness, I recommend using the brightness you use the most. But, you have to keep using that brightness for comparisons of profiles. So pick a brightness to your likings, but be consistent! (And no auto brightness!). I usually use 100%.
Let’s get started!
Step 1: Preparations
1) Set the screen timeout to 30 minutes or longer.
2) Keep your screen on for 30 minutes at the predetermined brightness. You can use you phone, just don't turn your screen off.
(Your display needs to stabilize by warming up. If you were to measure in the first minute you will see that the results are quite different than after 30 minutes. To ensure proper calibration, one must warm up the screen for at least 30 minutes)
3) Make sure you have all the requirements listed above. Also download “Shades of Grey” to your phone and “Display Calibration Nexus 5 by yorici.xlsx” to your pc.
4) Extract the images from the file explorer to a folder on your phone. There are multiple versions. I suggest reading further first, but if you can’t wait, extract “Shades of Grey (Recommended).zip”
5) Connect your colorimeter to your pc and open up HCFR.
6) In HCFR: Press 'new' - Select 'View images' - 'Next'
- Then under 'Select a sensor in this list': Your colorimeter (Can be any name). Do not use a meter correction file unless you know what you are doing. - 'Next'
- Display Type: 'LCD White LED IPS' - Reading Type: 'Display' - OK
7) In HCFR: Go to Free Measures and make sure you have set the mode in RGB
Test if it works by pressing F7. It should have measured once now and you get a table of data with one row. If you click on it, you will see more data in the left pane below.
8) If your screen hasn't warmed up for 30 minutes now, just play a game or do something else. It might be useful to get a charger as you will have your display constantly on for the rest of the steps.
Step 2: Set the goals
It is up to you what color temperature and gamma you want. I suggest you first read "More technical part: Gamma, color temperature and colorimeters" first before beginning with this. The accurate settings are there too. It's up to you how you want to calibrate though. These are my tips you should keep in mind:
Red is the limiting color in our display. Try to keep it maximised and play with blue and green
The blacks can be harder to calibrate. Try to aim for an accurate gamma though. Color temperature is less of importance because you won't see blue or red blacks as good as you would see blue whites or blue blacks.
Always turn screen off and on after editing parameters. No changes will occurs if you don't!
As you will have to turn off your screen a lot, it might be easier to temporarily disable your lockscreen. This can save some time.
Step 3: The first parameter
1) Open the Shades of Grey folder with a Gallery App (I prefer QuickPic)and just open the first image (begins with “a RGB(255,255,255)....”). These images are sorted in the right order, you will only need to swipe.
2) Do a 'Free Measure' by pressing F7. I do usually three times for more accuracy:
Those three results I combine in one value with less decimals (usually 1). You will always get three different results, so you can't use just one of them. You will need to average them out. This creates uncertainty and therefore you remove two decimals. (If you get three times the same result, please keep it to one decimal. It's very unlikely you will get three times the same results another time)
3) Note these values in max luminance in the spreadsheet
4) Measure the second image (black) and note these values in min luminance. When you edit them, you will see the other values change.
5) It will probably the case that the first two values aren't resulting in your desired goals. Now you must correct this by editing the parameters. Open up Faux Gamma App (or any other app that can edit the parameters like FKU or Kcontrol)
6) Let's say I want to achieve 6500K. For that to happen, every color channel needs to result in the same value. Lred=Lgreen=Lblue.
In my previous result: Blue and green were higher than red. Red was maxed out, so I need to decrease blue and green
In Faux Gamma App (and Kcontrol) the first 12 parameters are reversed: Increasing parameters will decrease colors
In FKU this annoyance is removed: If you increase any parameter, the corresponding color will always increase
To decrease blue and green for the first value, I need to increase the first parameter in Faux Gamma App and decrease in FKU. Pay attention to which parameter you are editing. The 13th to 23th parameters are normal.
How much you should adjust is not determined. The only thing you know is that when you have a difference of 5 in luminance (Desired vs. irl), the adjustment in the parameters should be less than when the difference is 50.
7) In general this applies: The more accurate each parameter was calibrated in relation to the next parameter, the better the gamma.
The more accurate each color channel (Red, green and blue) was calibrated in relation to another, the better the color temperature.
Step 4: The rest of the parameters
1) When you are done calibrating the first parameter, continue to the next parameter. I usually start by calibrating all red, then green and finally blue.
2) In the Gallery, swipe to "c - p(2) - RGB(254,254,254)". This means parameter 2 (the c is for the right order in gallery apps). Measure this three times and take average.
3) Swipe to "ca - RGB(255,255,255)". Measure it three times and take average. This is max luminance again.
4) (Optional for parameters 1 – 14) Swipe to "cb - RGB(0,0,0)". Measure it three times and take average. This is min luminance again.
5) In the spreadsheet: Fill in max and min luminance. Then compare the first average of p(2) with the suggested value of parameter 2 in the spreadsheet.
6) Adjust accordingly in Faux Gamma App, Kcontrol or FKU. Screen off/on! And repeat substeps 2 to 5 until desired value = p(2) value.
7 - 99) Repeat for every other parameter.
PRO TIP: Save your work every 6 parameters! Just save it as a profile. When you reboot, you might lose your progress as the default profile is stock.
Temporarily get rid of your lockscreen. Unless you use Faux Kernel, you will need to turn your screen off and on a lot. Removing the lockscreen will ease that a bit and save you time!.
NOTE: If you want to save some time, you can skip measuring blacks (cb - RGB(0)..) every time. Just measure it fifty times with F8 mode while moving the colorimeter over the screen. Take average of those and keep it at those. You should get “Shades of Grey (No blacks).zip” then. It is better to measure black for 15 to 23 though!
Step 5: Review the results
1) Get Voodoo Screen Test Patterns App (free)
2) Open the app and set the amount of measurement points in the settings. [More=better, but more difficult]
3) Set the equal amount of measurement points in HCFR: (I use at least 25, b/c 24 parameters)
HCFR – Measures – Parameters – Number of Grayscale levels
4) Press “GO” and it will show images on your PC. You have to press next on your phone to keep up with the images.
NOTES: It’s a bit wonky and you should take multiple attempts at this for more accuracy
If calibration is done correctly, the color temperature should be around 6500K (+- 75K). The average gamma should be very close to your setting. The gamma line itself can be a bit squigglier, but keep it around the gamma you have chosen earlier.
Step 6: Share and contribute!
Please share you final product of hard work!
1) Save your profile using the Nexus Display Control app (FKU has this functionality too).
2) With a file explorer navigate to nexus_display_control/color_profiles and locate your profile.
3) Gather results from HCFR (right-click - save): gamma and color temperature (with saturation, luminance, near white, near black you are even better ;P)
4) Claim your glory and post the profile, HCFR images and you goals (which gamma and color temperature were you going for?) in this thread as a reply!
If you are really satisfied with the result, please consider buying me a beer I have done a lot of research to get to these results and they have all been done in spare time.
Testing without a colorimeter
Most of the users don’t have a colorimeter and you might not either. What can you test?
Banding: Less accurate, but still possible, you can check banding! By using gradient you can review the smoothness of the gradient. I have included gradients that are capable of doing this! You are looking for sudden interuptions in the gradient. If it is good, the gradient will appear smooth without any distortions.
Color Temperature: Though, incredible inaccurate and very biased, you can check color temperature subjectively. I do not recommend relying on it, but you can see the differences in hue and adjust the parameters. Though there is no way to measure it. I have included gray images that you can use!
You just swipe through the pictures and you will notice the different hues. Though it subjective to judge which one is incorrect…
Gamma: Short answer: No, not really.
Long answer (involves Display Tester App):
Although Display Tester App (and more apps alike) claim to test gamma, their results are biased . The principle the Display Tester App relies on is the following:
You create a background with a grid. The grid is composed of RGB (255,255,255) and RGB (0,0,0). This is the same as 0% and 100% gray. Because the eye can’t see individual pixels, the grid blends to a half tone: 50% gray. If you place a 50% gray block on the background, they should match. Up till this part, everything is correct.
There is one problem: The Display Tester App only tests 50% gray. 50% gray results in RGB (186,186,186). So basically, you are only testing only one RGB value out of 256.
To make this even more fun: The Display Tester App also messed up the background… While it should be a perfect grid of 0 and 255, it actually goes from 0 to 8 and 247 to 255. No, this is not better, it only is more biased. You can’t rely on RGB (1 to 254) as they are not calibrated yet.
If you have used the app, you may have noticed that changing the viewing angle, changes the outcome. The outcome is also dependent on ambient lighting, if the screen has been warmed up for 30 minutes, your eyes, brightness.
With so many variables you can’t believe this app will produce any reliable result… Even if it did, it would only count for RGB (186).
My advice: Do not rely on the Display Tester App or any other app that claims to be able to measure your gamma!
Notes:
- 50% gray = 0.5^(1/2.2) * 255 = 186 (It’s not 127/128 due to gamma correction)
- You can see for yourself that the app is biased: Change parameter 9 (any color) to 255. Open the app: no real difference right? The 2.2 box will remain the same and the background too, while if you look at photographs there is noticeable something wrong! This can’t be right, can it?
Saturation: Forget it.
Contrast: Very complicated process with another camera perhaps. Google is your friend. (It will be quite inaccurate: the camera alters the picture too (white balance))
Color checker cards
You could buy color checker cards and use those to calibrate. It's a bit cheaper.
Disadvantages:
Less accurate than a colorimeter due to inaccuracy of the eye and ambient lighting
Only one calibration possible: 6500K, gamma 2.2
If you are going to spend more than 40 on it, I suggest you buy a cheap colorimeter instead.
Should I use the RGB sliders?
Short answer: No, only for very specific purposes.
Long answer:
The RGB sliders shouldn’t be used if you want to improve your screen. If you want to make your screen all red, the sliders are perfect.
What the sliders to is limit the RGB range. If you set the red slider at 240, RGB(255) will become what normally was RGB(240). Every RGB value gets relocated from there between RGB(0) and RGB(240). You are basically limiting the amount of colors you can display. Not that awesome right? (Unless you want to do this)
Current state of development
Not everything has been uncovered yet:
Can be predicted how much one should increase a parameter to get a certain luminance?
My idea: Let’s assume that an increase of parameter Y with amount X always increases Luminance(Y) with the same amount. Let’s call the screen’s calibration when every parameter is set at 0, the base calibration. That base calibration is different for each display and define the characteristics. When measured correctly, one could calculate how much each parameter should be increased to get the desired luminance.
Explanation needed for the strange behavior of the first 8 parameters when all set to 0.
What is the mathematical connection of the white point in relation to the parameters?
The so called ‘white point’ is the only parameter that can adjust the entire RGB range. What is the mathematical connection between each individual parameter and the white point?
Changelog and credits:
Changelog:
26-5-14: Initial post placed
27-5-14: Fixed link, added color checker cards (Thx Tzfardaya), added white point measurements in post #2
1-6-14: Fixed type, thx @nihil0
16-6-14: Added profile: Yorici_Calibrated_Punch (see second post)
20-6-14: Added more info in FAQ under "How to get profiles?"
Immense thanks to:
@supercurio, @myfluxi, @faux123, @franciscofranco, @mag01, @rajendra82, @gpvecchi, @Tzfardaya, @granets, @tkoreaper, @ChazzMatt, @neriamarillo, @vomer, @The Gingerbread Man and everyone that helped with this!
If you still have any questions that weren’t explained (clearly enough), feel free to ask in this thread. I will keep adding questions which I think are useful!
NEW! Gamma Corrected Brightness (GCB)
Let's do a little experiment shall we? Set your screen's brightness at 0%, 50% and 100% consecutively. Notice something odd? That's right! The 50% doesn't seem like 50%. Why you ask? Well you are not a robot, but a fabulous human that perceives brightness different (i.e:non linear). Well how do you fix this?
We are introducing Gamma Corrected Brightness! This will solve that nasty issue we talked about. Best thing yet, this baby comes with multiple modes and works for every brightness level! And this will save you battery too! With GCB you will have a greater tendency to set a lower brightness than you normally would and that saves battery life!
Four modes are:
- Stock
- Gamma 2.0 (Stubborn) – A little bit more stubborn than the natural one for those who need that
- Gamma 2.2 (Natural)– The natural one that seems normal like it should be!
- Gamma 3.0 (Nightmode) – This one is for night times ^^
How to use:
1) Download and install Furnace Kernel
2) Open terminal
3) Enter for:
Stock: echo “0” > /sys/module/lm3630_bl/parameters/gamma_correction
Stubborn: echo “1” > /sys/module/lm3630_bl/parameters/gamma_correction
Natural: echo “2” > /sys/module/lm3630_bl/parameters/gamma_correction
Nighttime: echo “3” > /sys/module/lm3630_bl/parameters/gamma_correction
4) Done!
If you love Gamma Corrected Brightness, please consider to buy @savoca and @yorici a drink!
_________________________________________________________________________________________
Profile:
Yorici_Calibrated_Punch:
Goal: Maximum brightness possible with 2.35 gamma
Result:
Average gamma: 2.36
Contrast ratio: 1:1017
Color temperature: Around 8800K
Higher saturation due to higher gamma
Maximum brightness of 500 nits vs 440 nits on stock
So brighter, more saturated and higher color temperature: what is usually called punchy!
Advanced graphs:
The color temperature might appear to be really bad, but there is a reason for this:
On full black I get these luminances: R:0,4 G:0,4 B:1,2. The color temperature of this is > 12.000K. To preserve maximum brightness I had to keep these values. This difference of 0,8 slims down when luminance gets higher. And you can see that from 25% gray and on the color temperature remains more stable.
You will also notice that gamma gets a bit more wobbly at the end. That is because the measured values change more dramatically than at the beginning of the curve. I might try to decrease the wobblyness more in the future.
See attachments for profile!
Yorici_Calibrated_Accurate
Still in the works.. (Harder to make)
_____________________________
White point:
I have taken 16 measurements of the entire RGB curve and made gifs out of them:
Luminance:
RGB levels:
Color Temperature:
The slight bumps some times are due to mistakes, vibrations (got a text), etc. Ignore them.
What can we learn from this about the white point?
The white point seems to have the most effect on red (as seen in Luminance)
Extremer white point (towards 0 and 63) tend to increase the differences between the colors
That diversion gets bigger 50% - 100% gray with white point 31 - 63
That diversion gets bigger 0% - 50% gray with white point 0 - 31
White points 0 to 10 and 53 to 63 are more unstable and lead to unpredictable results.
A white point around 31 seems the best
Anything else?
Nice thread ...
great post buddy :good:
everyone: be sure to tag me if you make new profiles and want them added to my server
There is a way to do a very basic calibration without a colourimeter... but it requires a set of digital colour cards...
Basically a sheet printed with specific squares of colour you take a picture of said card, and then compare the colour displayed on screen with the colour of the card.... With a proper calibration, the two will match. (after correcting white balance)
Tzfardaya said:
There is a way to do a very basic calibration without a colourimeter... but it requires a set of digital colour cards...
Basically a sheet printed with specific squares of colour you take a picture of said card, and then compare the colour displayed on screen with the colour of the card.... With a proper calibration, the two will match. (after correcting white balance)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But again dependent on your eyes, ambient lighting, etc. ;/
Not ideal, but I can't disagree that it is indeed a method.
yorici said:
But again dependent on your eyes, ambient lighting, etc. ;/
Not ideal, but I can't disagree that it is indeed a method.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More reliant on your eyes than ambient lighting, since you should look at the picture under the same light. but yeah, it's a very rough way... Slow, tedious, and usually used more to check the calibration and white balance/colour correct photographs than actually calibrating the screen....
Tzfardaya said:
More reliant on your eyes than ambient lighting, since you should look at the picture under the same light. but yeah, it's a very rough way... Slow, tedious, and usually used more to check the calibration and white balance/colour correct photographs than actually calibrating the screen....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you would buy a white tile that is 6500K? I could mention it in my thread though
yorici said:
I assume you would buy a white tile that is 6500K? I could mention it in my thread though
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heh, the white card is based on srgb, and is what a "properly calibrated and full srgb gamut" display should show at 255/255/255, same with the black card (0/0/0).
I also have an 18% grey card...
Makes white balancing a photograph extremely simple....
But can also be used (with great difficulty) to help calibrate a display (or check the displays calibration)
My man, I am subscribed! I'll update the required posts and threads by me when I'm feeling fresher (sober) in the AM
Edit
Nice to see this got stickied nice one!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
nice thread, but the link to vomer's screen profile is broken because you add (" ") between the link
The Gingerbread Man said:
My man, I am subscribed! I'll update the required posts and threads by me when I'm feeling fresher (sober) in the AM
Edit
Nice to see this got stickied nice one!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm happy with the sticky as well
gravityy said:
nice thread, but the link to vomer's screen profile is broken because you add (" ") between the link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good catch
Color temp is pretty good stock. For me its the gamma that drives me nuts. I've been waiting for your results to start with mine. As you noted Franco fixed his interface.
Thanks a ton. Spent my donation/app fund this week on Peek. You're up next.
Subscribed! Awesome work and lots of good info. Thanks @yorici
Are you able to share with us your profile @yorici? Will definitely be referencing this thread when I buy my own colorimeter in the coming month!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
blackt5 said:
Color temp is pretty good stock. For me its the gamma that drives me nuts. I've been waiting for your results to start with mine. As you noted Franco fixed his interface.
Thanks a ton. Spent my donation/app fund this week on Peek. You're up next.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha great dude! Yeah it's more gamma that needs some attention, but color temp can be improved too. Also, if you have the money and you are willing to spend it, I would suggest buying a xRite i1 Display Pro. You would want this one for the speed. It very quick in measuring. (I got it recommended by Francois Simond. He has been calibrating the displays of the One Plus One) If you are completely crazy about colors, you should buy a spectrophotometer. But that is > €1000...
Bobtehblob said:
Are you able to share with us your profile @yorici? Will definitely be referencing this thread when I buy my own colorimeter in the coming month!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I must confess Everytime I start calibrating I discover something I don't know yet and I begin investigating it further Yesterday I took 16 measurements of the white point of which I will posts gifs of (So you can see the change). I just get intrigued and stop calibrating So I have some half baked profiles I need to continue.
In my opinion n5 display looks better than any other smartphone display I came across. It's just so easy on the eyes, I get a headache when I look other oversaturated panels. I'm not a gamma expect but I know how people faces are supposed to look so I pay a lot of attention to the skin tones when I look at the images on my phone, and any custom made profile can't be compared in the terms of color accuracy to the stock one. After all, can we calibrate the screen better than Google?
Bright Red Nexus 5
Updated post 2 with gifs about the white point! Please comment if you feel I missed something or concluded wrongly
defffizz said:
In my opinion n5 display looks better than any other smartphone display I came across. It's just so easy on the eyes, I get a headache when I look other oversaturated panels. I'm not a gamma expect but I know how people faces are supposed to look so I pay a lot of attention to the skin tones when I look at the images on my phone, and any custom made profile can't be compared in the terms of color accuracy to the stock one. After all, can we calibrate the screen better than Google?
Bright Red Nexus 5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 'look at the faces' is indeed a good test to see if the display is a bit oversatured. Can we calibrate better? Yes, definitely.
The reason for this is that Google didn't do the calibration LG did. And LG had to build a profile that was an good average on all displays. No display can be exactly the same and especially when you have millions of units. The calibration is therefore not optimized on a per display basis and you can improve it
@yorici,
I have a eye one pro
If you're in love with your Note 4, don't install the following app. But if you the type of person that wants to know everything, is curious, and doesn't mind fiddling around with the hardware on Note 4, you're welcome to install the following app, and share your feedback,
Install supercurio's Voodoo Screen Test Patterns App,
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.projectvoodoo.screentestpatterns&hl=en
VIEWER DISCRETION ADVISED
Bring the Brightness level down to minimum visible brightness (Preferably when viewing Near Grayscale); even in a well-lit room, or preferably dark setting, you will notice how Samsung managed to hide the Mura Effect on their latest iteration of AMOLED Panels. Some will see notice the predisposing lines, blobs, banding, and two-tone (or even more) gradients, which expresses the true organic nature of AMOLED Panels (Discussed as far back as the original Galaxy S phone).
Now beware, the Mura Effect is normal and does not make your screen or device defective.
Thanks to Samsung's preset for low Brightness levels implemented on the Galaxy S4, S5, Note3, and Note 4, and newer devices (can only be modified via third-party apps), its really hard to make out the Mura Effect on the newer models. Black color is Black, and Samsung's software mod forces no voltage to be fed to the AMOLED Panel when black is displayed, thus the pixels are literally turned off.
I've seen some users post pictures of the smearing (deep purple and pink tint) at "Normal" lower brightness levels (within Samsung's preset levels), which should be taken into account; I suggest them to exchange their devices or replace their displays until they get something better their eyes can be content with.
Every Note 4 and AMOLED device has these anomalies, however, the degree to which the anomalies are visible will vary from device to device. Some will be unable to make out the anomalies thanks to the nature of their displays (Warmer-toned or Cooler toned displays), and should be grateful and move on. If the anomalies are too obvious, I would suggest replace the screen, or live with it and accept AMOLED at its true best.
Downloaded the app and after messing around for a bit I can say that I am unable to make out the anomalies.
The screen quickly turns to black after messing around for a bit. It's good to know that Samsung has made "some" progress in alleviating some of the concerns most previous Galaxy device owners had particularly pertaining to AMOLED displays. However, we all are still far from seeing all AMOLED displays equal and consistent with one another. Some favor warmer colors whereas others favor cooler colors, and some in-between, thus variances will be prevalent until a final solution comes into play.
airwa1kin7 said:
Downloaded the app and after messing around for a bit I can say that I am unable to make out the anomalies.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My 10+ arrived yesterday and so far I've been impressed with two exceptions. As mentioned in other threads my finger sensor leaves a lot to be desired but my point of this thread was about an odd look my screen had. It was not bright and sharp like my 8+. There was a yellowish tint. I went into the 8+ to see if there were any differences in my display settings and I fixed the problem my by changing the screen mode on the 10+ from natural to vivid (Settings > Display > Screen Mode). The options were different on the 8+ but on the newer version it's one of the two, vivid or natural.
Just wanted to share that in case anyone else is having the same issue.
One question. My 10+ came with the screen protector and I've never had one. I assume they take away at least a small percentage of your brightness and clarity? I'm tempted to remove mine to see.
scmobileman said:
My 10+ arrived yesterday and so far I've been impressed with two exceptions. As mentioned in other threads my finger sensor leaves a lot to be desired but my point of this thread was about an odd look my screen had. It was not bright and sharp like my 8+. There was a yellowish tint. I went into the 8+ to see if there were any differences in my display settings and I fixed the problem my by changing the screen mode on the 10+ from natural to vivid (Settings > Display > Screen Mode). The options were different on the 8+ but on the newer version it's one of the two, vivid or natural.
Just wanted to share that in case anyone else is having the same issue.
One question. My 10+ came with the screen protector and I've never had one. I assume they take away at least a small percentage of your brightness and clarity? I'm tempted to remove mine to see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Keep in mind that Natural should follow the sRGB color space. Most displays have default colors that are too cold/blue (high color temperature, and I know, it's counter intuitive but that's what they call it ). Relative to "colder screens", sRGB will seem warmer / more yellow. But it's also much more accurate as far as color representation goes, and should be closer to what you see with your eyes unfiltered by sunglasses. This assumes whatever image you're looking at is also taken with neutral colors and not over saturated.
I usually calibrate all my screens to have more accurate colors, at the expense of that "pop" you can get with AMOLED screens.
Sakete said:
Keep in mind that Natural should follow the sRGB color space. Most displays have default colors that are too cold/blue (high color temperature, and I know, it's counter intuitive but that's what they call it ). Relative to "colder screens", sRGB will seem warmer / more yellow. But it's also much more accurate as far as color representation goes, and should be closer to what you see with your eyes unfiltered by sunglasses. This assumes whatever image you're looking at is also taken with neutral colors and not over saturated.
I usually calibrate all my screens to have more accurate colors, at the expense of that "pop" you can get with AMOLED screens.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That "pop" is exactly what I'm looking for so would you suggest I stick with vivid? I understand what you're saying about the colors but it's not an area I'm real familiar with. I'm just not seeing a brightness on the level I prefer and yes I have it set as high as possible.
scmobileman said:
That "pop" is exactly what I'm looking for so would you suggest I stick with vivid? I understand what you're saying about the colors but it's not an area I'm real familiar with. I'm just not seeing a brightness on the level I prefer and yes I have it set as high as possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, you'll want to leave it on vivid if you want that "pop". I also know that when my current Google Pixel got the Pie update, the auto-brightness was a bit finicky at first, as it's an "intelligent" brightness and it takes a few days to learn your preferences for the right brightness based on the lighting conditions. So that might be the case with the S10 as well, and I should be picking up mine tomorrow so then I'll know more about how it works exactly.
Also I think I read somewhere that the S10 will only get very bright in direct sunlight if it's set to auto-brightness. You apparently can't set it to that level manually. So perhaps play around with that a bit.
Any news on this? I just picked up my s10 plus and the screen has a yellow tint and seems less bright compared to my note 8...not sure if I just ask for a replacement. Thanks!
I always run mine on Vivid and WQHD and as expected the S10 is spectacular
Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
im surprised there isnt adaptive display mode like on the previous models this really made different colours pop. mine seems to have a bit of an orange tint
I also found it too yellow.. Go at the advanced settings and reduce the green close to the minimum and the red just a little bit. It will look white again..
Because of the sun light some people find yellowish colours more natural..
Yeah the whites don't look good on the s10 compared to my note 8
Just compared mine with different demo models and they all seem a bit more 'natural'. No need to swap it for a different one, allthough they all are a bit different...one more leaning towards blue white and the other to yellowish white.
Well coming from pixel 3, to me, Colors looks natural. S10 screen is crisp and clear. Nobody can best sammy when it comes to screens. I am using natural mode. Vivid mode is having too much pop.
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
scmobileman said:
My 10+ arrived yesterday and so far I've been impressed with two exceptions. As mentioned in other threads my finger sensor leaves a lot to be desired but my point of this thread was about an odd look my screen had. It was not bright and sharp like my 8+. There was a yellowish tint. I went into the 8+ to see if there were any differences in my display settings and I fixed the problem my by changing the screen mode on the 10+ from natural to vivid (Settings > Display > Screen Mode). The options were different on the 8+ but on the newer version it's one of the two, vivid or natural.
Just wanted to share that in case anyone else is having the same issue.
One question. My 10+ came with the screen protector and I've never had one. I assume they take away at least a small percentage of your brightness and clarity? I'm tempted to remove mine to see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So even I had the same thoughts when I got hands on my S10+. Was worried the screen had some issues and hence went to the Samsung store and compared with the display phones - there was no difference between what I had and the display ones. However, when I compared with my S8+ I found that S8+ display was more blue-ish than S10+. The response from Samsung was that by default Samsung had toned down the blue light in the S10 screens for improved readability.
However, I feel the colors had lesser contrast in my S10+ screen compared to my S8+ and that is a bummer - at least for me!
dragster88 said:
So even I had the same thoughts when I got hands on my S10+. Was worried the screen had some issues and hence went to the Samsung store and compared with the display phones - there was no difference between what I had and the display ones. However, when I compared with my S8+ I found that S8+ display was more blue-ish than S10+. The response from Samsung was that by default Samsung had toned down the blue light in the S10 screens for improved readability.
However, I feel the colors had lesser contrast in my S10+ screen compared to my S8+ and that is a bummer - at least for me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have found that applying "blue light filter" and setting it's effect to minimum fixes the color saturation and reverses the washed out look on images. Another way is to go into visibility enhancements -> color adjustment -> then either apply a filter there like "Tritan" or "personalize color" and follow the steps. To me I cannot see any difference between the above steps or just simply applying "blue light filter" set to minimum. To me both look to correct the color saturation about the same.
I hope this helps you!
Hopefully they fix this soon!
Cheers ?
-Dorian
Hi guys. I think you might be encountering the display saturation bug.
The Galaxy S10 (USA Unlocked version in my case) has a peculiar bug in the display. When a photo is fully opened in an app such as Gallery, the photo's saturation becomes muted and cold (even with the display set to vivid and warm). It's very apparent with skin tones. I first noticed this when comparing identical photos between my S10 and S9.
If you hit the app switcher, the minimized card displays the photo with the correct saturation. Maximizing the app, causes the image to immediately turn washed out and Muted. This is appears to be a system wide bug, as it shows up in Gallery, Instagram and other places. I could not get this to show up with a screen recorder, since it's the display changing the image. I recorded it with my camera, but it appears very subtle. In person it is very obvious. I don't know how many are affected by this bug, but I'm seeing others talk about it on forums. Appears to affect all galaxy S10 models.
For a temporary fix, you can enable the blue light filter and set it to the MINIMUM setting. This will display photos in the Gallery and other apps with the correct color saturation. Hopefully Samsung will address this with a software update!
---------- Post added at 04:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:50 PM ----------
https://youtu.be/uUmgd-QrOuA
Supraguy88 said:
Hi guys. I think you might be encountering the display saturation bug.
The Galaxy S10 (USA Unlocked version in my case) has a peculiar bug in the display. When a photo is fully opened in an app such as Gallery, the photo's saturation becomes muted and cold (even with the display set to vivid and warm). It's very apparent with skin tones. I first noticed this when comparing identical photos between my S10 and S9.
If you hit the app switcher, the minimized card displays the photo with the correct saturation. Maximizing the app, causes the image to immediately turn washed out and Muted. This is appears to be a system wide bug, as it shows up in Gallery, Instagram and other places. I could not get this to show up with a screen recorder, since it's the display changing the image. I recorded it with my camera, but it appears very subtle. In person it is very obvious. I don't know how many are affected by this bug, but I'm seeing others talk about it on forums. Appears to affect all galaxy S10 models.
For a temporary fix, you can enable the blue light filter and set it to the MINIMUM setting. This will display photos in the Gallery and other apps with the correct color saturation. Hopefully Samsung will address this with a software update!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This app is a life saver for anyone who suffers from "invisible" screen flickering caused by PWM backlight control. Most AMOLED displays control lower than 100% display brightness by PWM. This method is extremely easy to implement, but can cause eye strain and headaches for sensitive people. DC dimming is rare as it is hard to implement without sacrificing color accuracy. This is where OLED Saver comes in handy.
How to use:
- turn off system adaptive brightness
- install the app, allow permissions it requests and enable the service
- set minimum screen brightness to 255 if you want to have the safest value (guaranteed to have zero flickering). After further testing, values as low as 96 seems to be still safe - but test it with your phone to be sure.
- minimise the ongoing notification to hide it from lockscreen
- turn on automatic brightness change from the notification ("A")
- remove OLED Saver from battery optimizations
In some rare cases you will need to suspend the service from notification (while taking screenshots for example, app installer might need it disabled too).
If you have Tasker and root access, you can toggle the service to force 100% brightness automatically. I'm using 100% while viewing videos/pictures and taking photos.
Start service
Code:
am startservice org.js.oledsaver/.MainService
Stop service (this will remove also notification)
Code:
am stopservice org.js.oledsaver/.MainService
So far I haven't found any negative point while using this app, just wish it was included in the AOSP code so we could still use adaptive brightness. Anyway, give it a try and share your experience.
I used to have some trouble watching text on this display under certain light conditions.
I don't know if it is just a placebo effect, but since I've installed this app, I don't feel any discomfort anymore.
I also can't see any difference in picture quality.
pecholino said:
I used to have some trouble watching text on this display under certain light conditions.
I don't know if it is just a placebo effect, but since I've installed this app, I don't feel any discomfort anymore.
I also can't see any difference in picture quality.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can easily check if it's working with another phone's camera. People have different sensitivity to PWM flickering, from none to watering eyes. You are probably somewhere in between. Without the app, I had a slight feeling like something was pulling my eyes. As soon as I enabled the app, this sensation has been gone. My wife doesn't see/feel any difference, but I left it enabled for her anyway, just to be on the safe side.
Thanks a lot for introducing this app. It works.
However I encountered a problem. With this OLED Saver activated and using GCAM to take photos, it boosts the brightness to maximum. Then I went elsewhere like home screen or other app, the auto brightness seemed not working and kept the max. brightness.
Then I tried locking the screen and unlocking, the brightness went up or down randomly, or it worked in some particular patterns I don't know. Anyway, it can't keep the brightness I set previously.
Does anyone has any idea to remedy this? Thanks a lot.
CLS_phone said:
Thanks a lot for introducing this app. It works.
However I encountered a problem. With this OLED Saver activated and using GCAM to take photos, it boosts the brightness to maximum. Then I went elsewhere like home screen or other app, the auto brightness seemed not working and kept the max. brightness.
Then I tried locking the screen and unlocking, the brightness went up or down randomly, or it worked in some particular patterns I don't know. Anyway, it can't keep the brightness I set previously.
Does anyone has any idea to remedy this? Thanks a lot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which GCAM app do you use? I'll try it. In stock camera it doesn't behave this way.
Btw. I tried to contact the developer if he could add global intents so we could control OLED Saver with Tasker and without root, this should help in preventing this kind of behavior. No response so far though. If you are rooted you could use method mentioned in the first post.
Also I'm in touch with Velis Auto Brightness developer - this app offers much more features (customizable automatic brightness levels, apps exclusion and more) and has similar feature for OLED displays, but sadly it doesn't work on status/nav bar as of now. If he manages to use the same method as OLED Saver, we could switch to VAB app.
The GCAM version is 7.0.009.259843690.
Phone model is M1906F9SH (64G global version) with OE ROM.
Thank you.
CLS_phone said:
The GCAM version is 7.0.009.259843690.
Phone model is M1906F9SH (64G global version) with OE ROM.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you send me the link to the particular GCAM apk pls? Different authors might give slightly different results.
I'm not allowed to post link here, yet.
Please search this file name: PMGC_7.0.009_FinalBuild_V14.apk
It's what I've saved and installed.
CLS_phone said:
I'm not allowed to post link here, yet.
Please search this file name: PMGC_7.0.009_FinalBuild_V14.apk
It's what I've saved and installed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hm, I can't replicate this. I've installed GCAM, enabled max brightness for pictures (but it does nothing, as system brightness is at max already and real dimming is done with OLED Saver, which is not being controlled by GCAM). Moving to/from GCAM doesn't change anything. If I manually suspend OLED Saver from notification, GCAM shows max brightness correctly. On resume it returns to the expected behavior and dimmer display.
Yeah, sometimes I got what you described. Sometimes it rushes to very very bright, but sometimes it can be very dim...
I'll try reset it again and see how it goes. Thanks for your time.
CLS_phone said:
Yeah, sometimes I got what you described. Sometimes it rushes to very very bright, but sometimes it can be very dim...
I'll try reset it again and see how it goes. Thanks for your time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that I saw OLED Saver "crash" once while using the phone - brightness suddenly went to max and was controlled by system. Since I removed this app from battery optimizations, it seems to be stable. Though this does not explain rapid bright/dim changes.
This looks very useful but what is it doing exactly? Is it running the screen at max brightness at all time and using some kind of overlay to dim the screen? Isn't that bad for battery life?
Sent from my G6 using Tapatalk
barth2 said:
This looks very useful but what is it doing exactly? Is it running the screen at max brightness at all time and using some kind of overlay to dim the screen? Isn't that bad for battery life?
Sent from my G6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, as you said, running HW brightness at max and putting a translucent overlay over the screen. It's basically SW implementation of DC dimming. It has a small artifacts with very low brightness, especially on grey colors, but otherwise no issues. Impact on battery should be negligible (OLED displays work different than LCD). Here is a nice article with links to more information at the end https://blog.elcomsoft.com/2019/11/...e-11-pro-and-pro-max-google-pixel-4-and-4-xl/
_mysiak_ said:
Yes, as you said, running HW brightness at max and putting a translucent overlay over the screen. It's basically SW implementation of DC dimming. It has a small artifacts with very low brightness, especially on grey colors, but otherwise no issues. Impact on battery should be negligible (OLED displays work different than LCD). Here is a nice article with links to more information at the end https://blog.elcomsoft.com/2019/11/...e-11-pro-and-pro-max-google-pixel-4-and-4-xl/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Has anyone used a high speed cam to determine at which brightness level the a3 flickers, or is it all level below 100%
Sent from my G6 using Tapatalk
barth2 said:
Has anyone used a high speed cam to determine at which brightness level the a3 flickers, or is it all level below 100%
Sent from my G6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I̶ ̶u̶s̶e̶d̶ ̶o̶n̶l̶y̶ ̶c̶a̶m̶e̶r̶a̶ ̶o̶f̶ ̶a̶n̶o̶t̶h̶e̶r̶ ̶p̶h̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶s̶e̶e̶m̶s̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶f̶l̶i̶c̶k̶e̶r̶ ̶s̶t̶o̶p̶s̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶v̶i̶s̶i̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶a̶t̶ ̶a̶b̶o̶u̶t̶ ̶l̶e̶v̶e̶l̶ ̶2̶2̶0̶ ̶f̶r̶o̶m̶ ̶2̶5̶5̶,̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶ ̶a̶s̶ ̶f̶a̶r̶ ̶a̶s̶ ̶I̶ ̶k̶n̶o̶w̶,̶ ̶p̶r̶e̶t̶t̶y̶ ̶m̶u̶c̶h̶ ̶a̶l̶l̶ ̶S̶a̶m̶s̶u̶n̶g̶ ̶A̶M̶O̶L̶E̶D̶ ̶d̶i̶s̶p̶l̶a̶y̶s̶ ̶u̶s̶e̶ ̶P̶W̶M̶ ̶a̶t̶ ̶a̶n̶y̶ ̶l̶e̶v̶e̶l̶ ̶b̶e̶l̶o̶w̶ ̶1̶0̶0̶%̶,̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶i̶t̶'̶s̶ ̶s̶a̶f̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶a̶s̶s̶u̶m̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶M̶i̶ ̶A̶3̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶n̶o̶ ̶d̶i̶f̶f̶e̶r̶e̶n̶t̶.̶
Edit: actually PWM seems to kick in at 80% brightness and below.
Hi _mysiak_,
I changed to some other version of GCAM (without the max brightness view finder) and then this OLED Saver App is working fine afterwards. Thank you.
Then I found, when in very dim setting, occasionally, the white color (now it's actually gray) seems not stable. It could be fluctuating from neutral gray to warmer. Not intrusive, though. Do you see that?
CLS_phone said:
Hi _mysiak_,
I changed to some other version of GCAM (without the max brightness view finder) and then this OLED Saver App is working fine afterwards. Thank you.
Then I found, when in very dim setting, occasionally, the white color (now it's actually gray) seems not stable. It could be fluctuating from neutral gray to warmer. Not intrusive, though. Do you see that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I noticed that "slow flickering/artifacts" as well. I believe it's the side effect of DC dimming method and probably one of the reasons why it's not so widely used. From what I read, Samsung AMOLED panels are designed to be used with PWM dimming, so we probably can't avoid it with very low brightness. If it's too disturbing, I just move the OLED Saver brightness slider a bit higher (it stops completely at roughly 40% brightness). Using pitch black themes in apps helps too. Not a perfect solution but definitely better than PWM
Btw. it's the same for any app using translucent overlays, I tried a couple of them and at similar brightness, all behave the same.
barth2 said:
Has anyone used a high speed cam to determine at which brightness level the a3 flickers, or is it all level below 100%
Sent from my G6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems to be at 80% and below. 81-82% and above should be safe.
CLS_phone said:
Hi _mysiak_,
I changed to some other version of GCAM (without the max brightness view finder) and then this OLED Saver App is working fine afterwards. Thank you.
Then I found, when in very dim setting, occasionally, the white color (now it's actually gray) seems not stable. It could be fluctuating from neutral gray to warmer. Not intrusive, though. Do you see that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try to change the "basic physical brightness" to value 96, artifacts don't disappear completely, but I don't notice them so often.
Level 96 in OLED Saver corresponds to HW brightness level 82%, which seems to be still free of PWM.
Thanks for the tip.
It's really works. Thanks for the tip ???
When using dc dimming on my amoled phone the brightness is way to high at night at lowest slider value.
While with pwm its a lot better i still would prefer it less bright (anyway no solution because flicker is annoying at lowest brightness).
Im pretty sure i am not at the lowest possible brightness level.
Unluckily beside some third party apps which running in the background and overlay a black layer i couldnt find anything useful even tough tons of people looking for a solution.
Your battery would thank you aswell .
Please can anyone make a module which sets the lowest brigthness to 1 on boot up ?
Thanks.
Danny94 said:
When using dc dimming on my amoled phone the brightness is way to high at night at lowest slider value.
While with pwm its a lot better i still would prefer it less bright (anyway no solution because flicker is annoying at lowest brightness).
Im pretty sure i am not at the lowest possible brightness level.
Unluckily beside some third party apps which running in the background and overlay a black layer i couldnt find anything useful even tough tons of people looking for a solution.
Your battery would thank you aswell .
Please can anyone make a module which sets the lowest brigthness to 1 on boot up ?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't think there is currently a module available. Having the same problem with my second mobile. The only App that I found and which is working as expected is for me:
Darker (Screen Filter) - Apps on Google Play
Darker can lower your screen brightness to extremely low levels.
play.google.com
Maybe anyone other knows a better solution.
larswars said:
Don't think there is currently a module available. Having the same problem with my second mobile. The only App that I found and which is working as expected is for me:
Darker (Screen Filter) - Apps on Google Play
Darker can lower your screen brightness to extremely low levels.
play.google.com
Maybe anyone other knows a better solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah this one uses a overlay, no good solution unluckily.
Hopefully some dev pick up my request.