So lately I've been trying to figure out a way to get my tablet mounted at the optimum position for GPS usage without obstructing anything. In my van I have the Arkon seat bolt tablet mount, which is perfect because it keeps the tablet lower in the dash area so it's not blocking my view or baking in the sun, and it's also a solid mount point. I'd have no where else to mount it in the van aside from the window if it wasn't for this mount, and I absolutely don't like window mounting anything bigger than a cell phone. So in that instance, things work out great. Recently I put that Arkon mount in my car, which is a Hyundai Elantra. I thought since the distance from the seat bolt to the mount area would be less, I'd have more (if anything, too much) "neck" to work with. It turned out to be the opposite. My Elantra is stick shift, so when I had the tablet mounted in the most convenient spot that reached, I was all but punching the screen when I went to 3rd/5th gear. The only other alternative was to have it sitting over in the passenger area, which works for me but it adds as a huge inconvenience to any passengers in that seat since their left knee is where the tablet is. As a result I decided to put the Arkon seat bolt mount back in the van and work on something else for the car.
I have an empty space under my head unit for random storage, etc. I began to wonder if I could somehow utilize that space for incorporating a mount there. It would be the perfect height because it's higher up from the gear shift and it would definitely be optimum viewing for GPS usage. Originally I made the perfectly sized wooden block that had a slight slight slope to it so it would wedge itself in place. I then epoxy'd a BluRex Amazon case to it that I wasn't too happy with and was no longer using. This proved to be an awesome 10 minute mount, but it also gave me zero adjustability. I began to think was going to be important since last time we were on a road trip when the road I was on was going to be 3 hours long my wife watched a movie, so I knew I'd want a way to move it around for best viewing in multiple scenarios.
Here's two pictures from that build:
http://i.imgur.com/dsfQx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/guw86.jpg
I began to give it more thought. I knew that the empty space under my head unit was going to be the mount point, but I just had to figure out how. I searched through multiple mounts, particularly from Arkon. In the end I bought this mount on eBay for about 20 bucks. It came with a suction cup which I knew wouldn't work for my uses. My plan was to cut the arm off, drill a hole into a wooden block, then fill it with epoxy and shove the arm in. The block of wood in question would be a piece that I cut to perfectly fit the open slot under my deck with a slight slant to it, that way as I pushed it in, it wedged itself in place (much like the last mount)
When I got this mount from eBay I began to wonder if I even needed to cut the arm off. Fortunately the height of the suction cup base was ALMOST the height of the opening in my dash. I figured all I had to do was wedge that in place and I wouldn't have to do the whole sha-bang with the wooden block and epoxy. I ended up cutting off the suction cup since it was useless in my case. The bottom of the plastic suction cup area had some flat ridges, so I figured I'd use double sided tape instead of epoxy to adhere it to a flat piece of wood. The flat piece of wood was to bump the thickness up just enough to replace the need for that wooden wedge.
http://i.imgur.com/yHOLR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/l9mRO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/O4Gin.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KFJad.jpg
In the last picture you can see that I flipped things around. Originally I had the arm facing downward, but when I had the tablet mounted, 5th gear was still a problem as the gear shift would nearly hit the tablet. I knew if I flipped it upside down the arm would be facing upward, giving me some height... so I re-did the tape and put it on the other side. Since I mounted it more to the right (to ensure there was a super low chance of the steering wheel ever obstructing view, even if I was leaning far to the left while driving) I sensed a small amount of uneven stability since there was nothing keeping the left side tight against the roof of the opening. A small wooden wedge later and we were golden.
http://i.imgur.com/t7v4P.jpg
I ended up painting that wooden piece black to blend it in a little bit. I also noticed while driving that some roads had a degree of ripple to them, which would cause the tablet to sway back and forth. It didn't obstruct my view-ability of the screen at all, but if I was in an area where the tablet was casting a glare from the screen it became more obvious. On a hunch I pulled out two quarters and slid them under the arm mount, which is where I thought I was seeing a degree of flexing. Surprisingly it helped quite a bit and that area no longer has any flex. Not bad.
http://i.imgur.com/gzcV0.jpg
Final product:
http://i.imgur.com/LoUZT.jpg
Hopefully those of you out there who are finding some tablet mounts are *almost* perfect but not a home run can utilize some sort of DIY ideas like I did to make it work. I now have a solid mount for both vehicles, so no more worries about where the tablet will sit, etc. No complaints there. :good:
Great mod! I too have a compartment like that when I replaced my factory double din to a single din radio. To compensate, I had to put in a CD holder type opening, much like your area. I just have slots for CD cases. In my case, it wouldn't work out too well because my opening is held by epoxy and because of the texas heat, loses it's adhesiveness big time and alas, too weak for N7.
I have since bought a Kropsson Aero, which can hold both my tablet and Sensation. I do wish someone made a mount that can fit like the Aero can. Oh well, sorry to detract, just wanted to give you some kudos in getting a mount that works for you! :good:
I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?
JaSauders said:
I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?
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Click to collapse
I just got the Aero in actually. It doesn't fit the N7 with my Seidio Case installed. So it's a fail on my end. It fits my Sensation fine, but thats a given lol.
As for the surface areas, I think you are correct that maybe the surface I am trying to apoxy to (on the car) does not play well/adhere with the epoxy I put on. No biggie though. I wanted something off the dash anyways. I may just get the exogear/kropsson mounts eventually...
EDIT: semi DIY modding LOL...
Just getting back, regarding the Kropsson Aero. Because of the Seidio case making the N7 bigger than expected to fit in the Kropsson Aero, I decided to cut down the foam pads on the sides. Now the N7 fits! The said arms are maxed out, but I will try it in the car after work. I took pics, but my work computer is borking at the card reader. But I'll try to upload them at home if I have time ( I have a 4 yr old to contend with lol).
I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.
I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10
xxgoosexx said:
I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10
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Click to collapse
I have that same disk that came with my tomtom gps that I never used. But it works! I have it installed and holds the arkon mount fine without issues.
ydoucare said:
I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.
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Click to collapse
Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:
JaSauders said:
Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't, I'll try to grab one and post it here.
Related
Do I get the award for the simplest mount?
Basically what I've done here is take the self-adhesive metal plate tomtom supply for securing their gps 'mice' to the car. It holds my Advantage just beautifully. I thought it might swing around a bit on its axis because the plate is so small but if you sit the end of the advantage that has two magnets (either side of the keyboard connector) it seems to hold in place pretty rigidly. I've tried a few twists and turns as well as emergency stops and not lost it yet. It might be the case that the screen would flop off the keyboard at a very rapid deceleration but it hasn't happened yet. I leave the cover on for convenience and to cushion its fall if that does happen.
So far it seems pretty secure but use at your own risk.
Cost approx GBP£5 (USD$10) plus tax, postage etc and ultimate convenience. No sucker bases, swing arms etc and it sits right where its needed for power etc.
I had mine left over from a previous tomtom installation but similar plates are apparently still available as spares e.g. from here.
I'm not sure mine is magnetic, by the way, it may just be metal.
The same I thought...but I sold TomTom gps years ago...
inframan said:
Do I get the award for the simplest mount?
Basically what I've done here is take the self-adhesive metal plate tomtom supply for securing their gps 'mice' to the car. It holds my Advantage just beautifully. I thought it might swing around a bit on its axis because the plate is so small but if you sit the end of the advantage that has two magnets (either side of the keyboard connector) it seems to hold in place pretty rigidly. I've tried a few twists and turns as well as emergency stops and not lost it yet. It might be the case that the screen would flop off the keyboard at a very rapid deceleration but it hasn't happened yet. I leave the cover on for convenience and to cushion its fall if that does happen.
So far it seems pretty secure but use at your own risk.
Cost approx GBP£5 (USD$10) plus tax, postage etc and ultimate convenience. No sucker bases, swing arms etc and it sits right where its needed for power etc.
I had mine left over from a previous tomtom installation but similar plates are apparently still available as spares e.g. from here.
I'm not sure mine is magnetic, by the way, it may just be metal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great idea. So in theory, any magnetic adhesive strip should serve in the car. Hmmm....
Maybe these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Magnetic-Stri...yZ123866QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Or cheaper ones!
inframan said:
Do I get the award for the simplest mount?
Basically what I've done here is take the self-adhesive metal plate tomtom supply for securing their gps 'mice' to the car. It holds my Advantage just beautifully. I thought it might swing around a bit on its axis because the plate is so small but if you sit the end of the advantage that has two magnets (either side of the keyboard connector) it seems to hold in place pretty rigidly. I've tried a few twists and turns as well as emergency stops and not lost it yet. It might be the case that the screen would flop off the keyboard at a very rapid deceleration but it hasn't happened yet. I leave the cover on for convenience and to cushion its fall if that does happen.
So far it seems pretty secure but use at your own risk.
Cost approx GBP£5 (USD$10) plus tax, postage etc and ultimate convenience. No sucker bases, swing arms etc and it sits right where its needed for power etc.
I had mine left over from a previous tomtom installation but similar plates are apparently still available as spares e.g. from here.
I'm not sure mine is magnetic, by the way, it may just be metal.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is great! Can't believe I didn't think of it. DUH! Great job on reporting this.
I'm thinking of going to the hardware store and getting a small L shaped metal "plate" and put velcro on the back of it. Should hold things nicely.
Like the way you kept the case on it. I would have done exactly the same thing. Not only does it help but I would be too lazy to remove it all the time when I got into my vehicle.
magnetic adhesive strip
Actually I tried magnetic adhesive strip, but it is quite weak ... Found out a normal metal ruler is better magnetic adhesive, as the keyboard is quite a strong magnet
@topic
Its really a good idea... I might try it...
Im using this one
it's fantastic and very solid
I know this post is quite useless. I just wanted to vent out my frustration.
I just got off the phone with a B&N rep after 20 minutes of talking--because the rep kept beating around the bush and kept placing me on hold--and was told that I needed to callback on Monday to get the tracking no. for my 2nd--yup, this happened twice before--USB cable replacement. Yup, it broke again like the first one I got included with the NC--SIMPLY BECAUSE OF IT'S POOR QUALITY.
In generic micro USB cables, you would notice that most of them are made of rubber material, especially the one covering the tiny metal tip that you insert on the device's USB port, which makes them quite durable. Even if you bend it intentionally multiple times, the metal tip will not be affected that much. Only downside is, it doesn't fast charge the NC. In my experience, it takes a day and a half (about 36 hours) to be able to charge the NC fully. And yup, my NC is now turned off for a week (and counting).
The NC's stock USB cable however is made out of a gloss plastic material, probably to give way to the LED? light indicator? Downside is, it gets cracked/chipped off easily whether it was done unintentionally or not, because of the plastic material not being 'hard' enough, and that's where most NC owners like me are getting pissed off.
You have to be very careful whenever you charge the NC--you need to make sure that it's on a flat surface, not on a surface where it can sink itself say for example, a foam bed, so that the cable will not 'sink' with it in and put pressure on the metal tip, finally chipping off the plastic coating.
Do you guys know of any alternative that can fast-charge the NC like it's stock USB cable? Does anyone have the ability to modify the NC's stock USB cable to coat it with rubber or something to make it more durable?
I'm sure there are others who are experiencing these things. Hope we can gather around and start a discussion about getting a permanent fix. Maybe rally at a local B&N store or something, I dunno.
Well, a cheap and quick bit would be to wrap it with electrical tape. If you have an electronics store or Radio shack carrying it, there is also something called shrink tubing. this is a rubberish tube that when carefully heated with a heat gun (not a blow dryer) or a lighter, will shrink down around wires, or plastic.
But, I am rather annoyed with this serious design flaw as well. Would be nice if B&N either recalled these cables with a properly designed one, or get a 3rd party available to handle that.
I was thinking of reinforcing the plug end of the cable by encasing it in a big wad of epoxy putty.
epoxy putty usually cures to something a bit too brittle for what this really needs. As the OP said, the plastic on the plugs are really way too brittle for what it's meant for. other than those things, the other option I can think of is some of that latex dip sold in some hardware stores, or sex shops. wrap the metal bit in tape, then give it a few dips, let it cure, then carefully cut the tape off. instant rubberized plug. could even carefully cut an indicator window for the charge light.
heat shrink tubing sounds best. will try that. you can get it from home depot or lowes. get the multiple size package. it is really best to use a heat gun. if you dont know what your doing and use a lighter you will burn right through the heat shrink.
It sounds like you might be looking for Sugru. It hardens to a rubbery flexible consistency. There's also a how to floating around the web on making your own using caulk and ...baking soda? I think?
For that matter, a flexible clear caulk might do the trick.
I was thinking that RTV silicone (downside is long cure time) or maybe hot melt glue would be worth a try. Either one would be translucent enough to see the LED color. The Sugru looks interesting, although opaque like heat shrink tubing.
You could probably use something like Scotch Coat (more or less liquid electrical tape..) or plasti-dip perhaps?
*I'm still waiting on my NC to arrive. So, I'm not sure exactly which portion of the connector you're talking about. If it's the entire outside portion that is typically metal... this is normally a chasis ground which equalizes the chasis potential between the NC and whatever it's plugged into..., and really shouldn't be coated with anything
I ordered this off Amazon with the intent of fixing several things in my house. I was going to use the clear for the tip of the charger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JIEPU
I think the shame of it is that all they had to do was use a strain relief sleeve like one of there:
Using the shrink tubing-
1. make sure you get a size large enough to get around the connection end.
2. Measure out a length. you want at least from the bottom of the N light to about 1/2 inch past the nub where the cord goes into the connector.
3. Slip the tube into place
4. Using a heat gun or lighter, carefully shrink the tube into place (NOTE: with a lighter, keep the flame moving, don't let it linger too long or you'll melt something)
5. If the resulting reinforcement doesn't seem enough, feel free to add another layer or 2.
WHAT DOES THIS ACCOMPLISH?
Well, most of the failure pictures I have seen, as well as the failed cord of my own, it seems the plastic is too friable (meaning it cracks really easy) to handle the stresses put on it at that end. Most of the cracks and fractures take place below the N, towards the cable side of the connection.
By adding this, it not only adds a semi flexible reinforcement around where it likes to crack up, it also stiffens and immobilizes a stretch of the cable, relieving a little of the stress that can happen in that part.
While other things might do the trick, and even electrical tape could do, this tubing is about the best option I've seen so far.
Srilania said:
While other things might do the trick, and even electrical tape could do, this tubing is about the best option I've seen so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heat shrink tubing isn't a bad idea. I don't know how readily available it is in consumer stores and stuff... but I know I've used the Heat shrink tubing with the glue inside on quite a few connectors (higher end coaxial/heliax connectors tend to come with it). It's a bit thicker and more durable than typical heat shrink tubing, and the glue holds it solidly in place.
I used scotch tape. ugly, but it works.
Heat Shrink tubing shouldn't be too hard to find, most any electrical / hardware store should carry it, even Wal-mart will have it from time to time in the automotive section.
A better option may be plastidip. It gives a thick rubnery coating.
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
After having a Nook Color for less than 6 months, mine just broke this morning! I would do without the LED indicator for a durable rubber casing.
Imbroglio said:
I was thinking of reinforcing the plug end of the cable by encasing it in a big wad of epoxy putty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Epoxy works very well actually, but you need to put it on the inside, not the outside. Split open the plastic cover. Clean it up so it fits back together cleanly. Mix up a batch of translucent 5 Minute epoxy and completely fill the cavity with epoxy. Fit it back around the cable and secure it with a clip or clamp of your choice. A small binder clip works perfectly. After about 5 or ten minutes you can remove the clip and use an exacto knife to clean up the excess. Clamp it up again and
let it cure for 12 hours or so. Works well for me.
Triple wall heat shrink is just what you need. A heat gun (not a lighter, it won't work well) is the way to go. A hair dryer most likely won't have the heat needed.
I use the stuff in my home business and have tons of it...if you need some let me know!
I bent the male end that plugs into the nook unit... I Pressed the male end against a counter in my kitchen so it was bent back into place, put a few spots of super glue (the kind you get at the dollar store) and waited overnight for it to dry. good as new, no more wiggle or bend in my usb end.
edit: ok, cant edit the title in tapatalk, that question mark is wrong, hehe.
My 1st real DIY project, a cheap handlebar mount for the defy.
what you need:
1 cheapest silicone case
2 packs of sugru
2 pieces of Lego
1 silicone strap
a few drops of superglue
yes, you are reading correctly, Lego and sugro in a nerdalicious marriage.
and this is how it looks.
http://imgur.com/a/Jvu7v
Look's very interesting, cause I love riding a bike, but did you test it? The phone won't fall away?
didnt test, but if the case itself sits thight enough I see no problem. what could be a problem is that the whole construction could be a bit wobbly, a stronger strap could prevent that.
Ok, I just got back from a 500Km tour, I could test the mount on all the worst surfaces possible, downhill on gravel, roots, cobblestones, everything a cyclist hates.
No problems with the cheapo mount, but it wobbles due to the silicone strap. No biggie for me, still this contraption is cheap and versatile.
motorola very good
I have an otterbox and I have been looking for a car mount but none of them are big enough to hold the phone inside the otterbox. Does anybody have any suggestions.
Edit - Wow I am blind. I somehow missed the giant thread already in progress about car mounts. -_-
Ram mount xgrip
Car Dock
I just got an HTC One M8 & also needed a new car dock. I got the iBolt dock from amazon that is universal. I will work with most phones, and ANY case.
Here's the link from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/iBOLT-xProDoc...&sr=8-3&keywords=iBolt+Universal+HTC+Car+Dock
The USB cord is reversible so you can have it on the left side, or on the side of a phone. I've had it for almost 3 weeks now & I love it!
Mountek nGroove is dead simple, and can hold just about any smartphone in any case.
As long as your CD slot is in a decent spot (to see the phone will navigating, etc.) and don't use it for CDs, this is a elegantly simple solution. It install in seconds, not sensitive to falling off like suction cups, and I've used it on a variety of rental cars while travelling (although a couple cars I've rented did not have good CD slot placement, such as low and the mount blocked the gearshift).
The nGroove even has a tension adjustment for the ball joint. As most any such joint will loosen over time and become useless without such an adjustment.
http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424794208&sr=8-1&keywords=cd+slot+phone+mount
redpoint73 said:
Mountek nGroove is dead simple, and can hold just about any smartphone in any case.
As long as your CD slot is in a decent spot (to see the phone will navigating, etc.) and don't use it for CDs, this is a elegantly simple solution. It install in seconds, not sensitive to falling off like suction cups, and I've used it on a variety of rental cars while travelling (although a couple cars I've rented did not have good CD slot placement, such as low and the mount blocked the gearshift).
The nGroove even has a tension adjustment for the ball joint. As most any such joint will loosen over time and become useless without such an adjustment.
http://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424794208&sr=8-1&keywords=cd+slot+phone+mount
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is an interesting solution. Does it vibrate very much while driving and can the whole thing rotate to landscape? The reason I need the rotate function is I use polarized sunglasses and when my phone is in portrait I can barely see the screen.
theandies said:
That is an interesting solution. Does it vibrate very much while driving and can the whole thing rotate to landscape? The reason I need the rotate function is I use polarized sunglasses and when my phone is in portrait I can barely see the screen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any of the mounts vibrate some, at least the ones I've used. In my view, anything that juts or sticks out from the dashboard or windshield is going to shake a little from road vibration. But the Mountek nGroove doesn't vibrate much, and not in a way that effects its function or viewing the screen (such as for navigation).
The mount is on a ball joint, which easily changes from landscape to portrait orientation and vice versa. The ball joint also has a tension adjustment (that you turn with an object like a coin) so you can vary how loose or tight the ball joint movement feels.
Overall, a very slick, simple, yet well though-out solution. And at $20, you don't really have much to lose in trying it, either.
The only (slightly) negative comment I have on the Mountek nGroove, is that the dust flap or bristles that protects/seals your CD slot might (probably) get deformed over time (and it states this in the instructions). In fact on my car, the CD slot dust flap is a felt-like material, and the nGroove actually tore the material is 2 spots due to the way the clamping action works. But the nGroove is always in the CD slot, so I don't really care. Just something I (barely) noticed when I take the mount out.
Well, I'm not sure if you've found your solution already, but I have a tech matte vent car mount from amazon, and that's a pretty good mount.
http://www.amazon.com/iOttie-Holder...3&sr=1-1&keywords=iottie+easy+one+touch+2#Ask
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXXHGLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Best bang for your buck mount there. I have 2, love them.
DeathmonkeyGTX said:
Ram mount xgrip
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what I use. I just swapped the suction cup for a screw in mount with a flat back and dual locked it to my dash to keep it off of my windshield.
I have this type.
http://www.brodit.com/brodit.html?pn=home
It's the best holder because It charge your phone and you have a free slot in your 12V because it's connected to car battery.
@ KeithN
I used the 14" flexible aluminum cylinder that bolts to the floor. You remove the corner seat bolt, put the thing on, and replace the bolt. Easy peasy and doesn't rattle.
DeathmonkeyGTX said:
@ KeithN
I used the 14" flexible aluminum cylinder that bolts to the floor. You remove the corner seat bolt, put the thing on, and replace the bolt. Easy peasy and doesn't rattle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very nice. Thanks for sharing!
Montar universal car dock. Best car dock EVER.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZmbqCIc9K8
Scosche magic mount. Love that thing. I was a bit leery of trusting a magnet to hold my phone, but it holds very well, even in the super bouncy cab of a tractor-trailer.
nuts77 said:
Montar universal car dock. Best car dock EVER.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZmbqCIc9K8
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I've never heard of that brand before... hmmm
waynerbbx said:
I've never heard of that brand before... hmmm
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been using this one since I got my M7. Never even had to remove it to place it again Really, it's a great accessory.
Got my Samsung LED wallet case today. Aside from the fact that this one closes more "securely" (doesn't lift up from the face without gravitational assistance), it's really no different from the Note7 and S7 Edge LED cases that I've previously owned. Very cool, nonetheless.
I forgot to mention that, while I'm not at all surprised that wireless charging works as expected with this case, I was quite pleased to find that there is no need to remove the note from the LED case to use the DeX Dock. It fits and works perfectly.
I wanted to get it but opted for the S-View case. I'm weary of spending the money on it because of the crappy ribbon that failed twice on the S7E last year.
Question on the LED case
Sorry to dig up an old thread but I thought you might be able to help me. I am about to purchase the Note 8 and I am looking at the LED case as I want to protect the screen of the phone.
In my vehicle I use a phone mount, RAM X-grip to be specific. If I open the case do you think I can continue to use this phone mount or will it distort the case and cause issues?
If it will cause issues can you use a magnetic mount with this case or will it interfere with the operation of the case or phone having a magnet on the rear of the phone?
Thanks for any help you can provide, I am just trying to figure this all out before I get the phone.
1. There is delicate electric ribbon from back to front part of the cover. Putting strain on the opened cover may damage the electronic connection and stop LEDs functioning well
2. I would advice against to connect any magnet to the phone (via case or directly) as it may/will interfere with S-pen/digitizer and wireless charging.
I have LED cover on Note 8 myself (like I did on Note 4) and I change cover to a simple non-flip case in the rare instances I use phone for navigation in rental cars. Other than that my phone is in center console. My only use in my car is through car infotainment system (play music, answer calls, have incoming messages read to me) so no need to present screen in holder (distracting and therefor dangerous anyway)
HuckFinn said:
Sorry to dig up an old thread but I thought you might be able to help me. I am about to purchase the Note 8 and I am looking at the LED case as I want to protect the screen of the phone.
In my vehicle I use a phone mount, RAM X-grip to be specific. If I open the case do you think I can continue to use this phone mount or will it distort the case and cause issues?
If it will cause issues can you use a magnetic mount with this case or will it interfere with the operation of the case or phone having a magnet on the rear of the phone?
Thanks for any help you can provide, I am just trying to figure this all out before I get the phone.
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I definitely wouldn't put it in the RAM X-grip with the case folded back because that would not be good on the ribbon as mentioned. I do use mine with a magnet mount in both my vehicles and sometimes for hands free use in the shop and LOVE it. Its so easy to just toss it on there anytime effortlessly with not even really looking. I can never go back.
Magnet will not interfere with the case at all but it will cause a distortion field for the S-pen but all things considered you really shouldn't be using the S-pen while you driving anyways. :good:
Can you tell me which magnet mount you have. I purchased one and put the metal strip between the phone and case and the magnet simply is not strong enough to hold the phone securely. My vehicle is a Jeep Wrangler, so the ride is a bit bumpy. The phone would barely stay put sitting in the driveway, so definitely not going to hold up to driving.
I've tried the X-Grip and actually the curved rubber pads on the X-Grip actually press against the hard plastic shell portion around the phone and not really against the soft spine of the case. I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. If the LEDs fail I will report back to say I should've listened
HuckFinn said:
Can you tell me which magnet mount you have. I purchased one and put the metal strip between the phone and case and the magnet simply is not strong enough to hold the phone securely. My vehicle is a Jeep Wrangler, so the ride is a bit bumpy. The phone would barely stay put sitting in the driveway, so definitely not going to hold up to driving.
I've tried the X-Grip and actually the curved rubber pads on the X-Grip actually press against the hard plastic shell portion around the phone and not really against the soft spine of the case. I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. If the LEDs fail I will report back to say I should've listened
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I use THIS one in my wifes SUV. Its not as strong as the one in my truck, but where I have it positioned it rests on top of the vent turn wheels and is supported perfectly. I've never had it move while driving. Even if I don't get it centered on the magnet just right its never moved.
THIS is the one I use in my truck and its noticeably stronger than the Spigen in my wifes car. My truck is an F250 with 6" lift offroad kit and giant mudder tires that beat the hell out of you just driving down the road and my phone doesn't budge on this mount *as long as you snap the phone on centered* If you place the phone off centered it will start to tilt a little after you've been driving for a bit. I did take it off road just a little bit and really gave it some good vibrations to see if I could make it fall and I was unable to get it to pop off of there.
---------- Post added at 09:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 AM ----------
HuckFinn said:
Can you tell me which magnet mount you have. I purchased one and put the metal strip between the phone and case and the magnet simply is not strong enough to hold the phone securely. My vehicle is a Jeep Wrangler, so the ride is a bit bumpy. The phone would barely stay put sitting in the driveway, so definitely not going to hold up to driving.
I've tried the X-Grip and actually the curved rubber pads on the X-Grip actually press against the hard plastic shell portion around the phone and not really against the soft spine of the case. I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. If the LEDs fail I will report back to say I should've listened
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use THIS one in my wifes SUV. Its not as strong as the one in my truck, but where I have it positioned it rests on top of the vent turn wheels and is supported perfectly. I've never had it move while driving. Even if I don't get it centered on the magnet just right its never moved.
THIS is the one I use in my truck and its noticeably stronger than the Spigen in my wifes car. My truck is an F250 with 6" lift offroad kit and giant mudder tires that beat the hell out of you just driving down the road and my phone doesn't budge on this mount *as long as you snap the phone on centered* If you place the phone off centered it will start to tilt a little after you've been driving for a bit. I did take it off road just a little bit and really gave it some good vibrations to see if I could make it fall and I was unable to get it to pop off of there.
Any other alternative car mounts for those with official led cover?
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