Any ideas? is it just RAM?
PREMOLIKES said:
Any ideas? is it just RAM?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In order to stay within the Raspberry Pi foundations target price of $35 the only things that will likely be in revision C is more RAM due to it being farily cheap and potentially another USB 2.0 port. Unfortunately anything else such as PoE (Power over Ethernet) or a USB 3.0 port even though they seem simple would increase the price significantly.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using xda premium
Probably more CPU out of the box?
A gigabit ethernet would be a dream come true, but for that it'd need it's own controller which would increase the price exponentially.
oribunokiyuusou said:
Probably more CPU out of the box?
A gigabit ethernet would be a dream come true, but for that it'd need it's own controller which would increase the price exponentially.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you guys noticed the "big thing from samsung" for their smart TV is a rip off idea of Raspberry pi
I doubt there will be a rev 3. More likely a 'Raspberry Pi 2'.
oribunokiyuusou said:
Probably more CPU out of the box?
A gigabit ethernet would be a dream come true, but for that it'd need it's own controller which would increase the price exponentially.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is already a Ethernet controller on the board, but it would indeed have to be a more powerful and probably a lot more expensive one.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
io53 said:
I doubt there will be a rev 3. More likely a 'Raspberry Pi 2'.
There is already a Ethernet controller on the board, but it would indeed have to be a more powerful and probably a lot more expensive one.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't forget the power consumption will also be higher and may also result in (even) higher temperatures.
Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2
They may also go with an expansion of product line, maybe a new price point with some oft requested features like PoL. As the current Ethernet implementation is via the USB 2.0, unless they switch to 3.0 they cannot support gigabit ethernet. So if you see one it will likely be accompanied by the other. but IMO, for the purpose of this organization (let us remember they ARE technically a charity) I doubt USB 3.0 is a priority. though PoL would be a useful feature.
What kind of power can PoE provide? And what voltage is it? Unless its 5 volt we will not see it happening as a good DC-DC converter is pretty expensive.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
PoE provides waaaaaaay more power than the Pi needs. Not to mention PoE switches are expensive, they do not justify the price of an USB hub to power 4~7 Pis + a normal home gateway router and a home switch combo to interconnect them.
I would prefer a processor possibly dual core and a better ram and a couple of sata Ports.
There are better systems than the Raspberry Pi if you want raw power, such as ones with a 1GHz processor and a Mali-400 GPU for like $60. But they're not as well supported or mainstream, and that's why we use the Pi. Don't forget that it's mainly made for the education industry, and then the enthusiasts. They could raise the price by a small amount and add better features, but these things are usually bought in bulk orders, and that would make the price skyrocket.
Making the Pi easier to parallelise out of the box would open big steps forward without having to pour more and more onto each board each revision. More RAM is a given I think unless the market plays silly buggers.
Given the huge success of the pi, it's certainly possible they could release a consumer model, for a higher price and keep in he current model for the original purpose
Last I heard nearly a million sold, given they were anticipating a few thousand...
Sent from my DROID3 using xda premium
I hope that they stick to their guns rather than bloat the remit they initially envisaged for the Pi. The revision of A > B was smooth and didn't see a massive hike in price or intent which of itself deserves applause.
If every Pi revision is made on the basis of "the best board available for under £50" then I would be happy. Unfortunately I can't see quick hikes in power and capability under this remit.
Best learn to make lean code and eak every drop out of what we have! I just wish I were as knowledgeable about the Pi as I was the Sinclair Spectrum +2 back in the day. I miss assembly
I'd hope that they dump the full-size SD socket for a micro SD socket.
Renate NST said:
I'd hope that they dump the full-size SD socket for a micro SD socket.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
www.newark.com (an official distributor) sells SD-to-MicroSD adapters for $6.
http://www.newark.com/adafruit-industries/966/low-profile-microsd-card-adapter/dp/44W3512
I really wish for more processing power. If its a dual or possibly quad core CPU with at least 1g ram. It will still be cheap even if they triple up the price. Maybe a faster media for the OS like mSSD or usb3 but that would be asking a little bit too much.
mintjustin said:
I really wish for more processing power. If its a dual or possibly quad core CPU with at least 1g ram. It will still be cheap even if they triple up the price. Maybe a faster media for the OS like mSSD or usb3 but that would be asking a little bit too much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Look up the Cubieboard. Even though I have a Raspberry Pi, I know this one's much better and it's only $49. USB (with host capabilities), IR Receiver, AllWinner 1GHz processor, 4GB onboard storage, 1GB RAM, SATA port (yes, SATA, for a HDD/SSD), MMC slot, and a bunch of other stuff.
Product F(RED) said:
Look up the Cubieboard. Even though I have a Raspberry Pi, I know this one's much better and it's only $49. USB (with host capabilities), IR Receiver, AllWinner 1GHz processor, 4GB onboard storage, 1GB RAM, SATA port (yes, SATA, for a HDD/SSD), MMC slot, and a bunch of other stuff.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure but the cubieboard is not available and possibly will never be. I'm waiting for this since it was presented for the first time and there seems to be no step forward. Another thing is the lack of wide spread linux support. Hardfloat and gfx drivers are missing steps here.
XenGi said:
Sure but the cubieboard is not available and possibly will never be. I'm waiting for this since it was presented for the first time and there seems to be no step forward. Another thing is the lack of wide spread linux support. Hardfloat and gfx drivers are missing steps here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
People have it on YouTube though.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Related
My computer is a couple years old so I'm trying to upgrade it to give it a new breath of fresh air. I'm really confused with all this pcI express 2.0, 2. 1, x 16 ... what does this mean? My motherboard is an MS-7525. it says it supports pci express x 16? What is compatible? Thanks guys
Peace and Love
Not based on any other specs of your computer (such as your PSU), It simply means you have a MB compatible with PCI-E x16 cards which are generally today's standard cards for computing. However, video cards typically require more juice than the stock PC has, So you would probably need to upgrade that.
ArtificialMusik said:
Not based on any other specs of your computer (such as your PSU), It simply means you have a MB compatible with PCI-E x16 cards which are generally today's standard cards for computing. However, video cards typically require more juice than the stock PC has, So you would probably need to upgrade that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's no problem I'm willing to buy a new psu, so any card is conptabile? I just want a decent one with a good price what's with all the 2. 1 and 3. 0 stuff is it supported?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App
LoveisPeace2012 said:
My computer is a couple years old so I'm trying to upgrade it to give it a new breath of fresh air. I'm really confused with all this pcI express 2.0, 2. 1, x 16 ... what does this mean? My motherboard is an MS-7525. it says it supports pci express x 16? What is compatible? Thanks guys
Peace and Love
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used to be heavy into custom PCs 3 to 4 years ago and when PCI Express came out, 16x was the best bus. But I know nothing these days. But here's some good places to start learning:
http://forums.guru3d.com/
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/
http://forums.overclockersclub.com/
MartyLK said:
I used to be heavy into custom PCs 3 to 4 years ago and when PCI Express came out, 16x was the best bus. But I know nothing these days. But here's some good places to start learning:
http://forums.guru3d.com/
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/
http://forums.overclockersclub.com/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I will take a look
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LoveisPeace2012 said:
That's no problem I'm willing to buy a new psu, so any card is conptabile? I just want a decent one with a good price what's with all the 2. 1 and 3. 0 stuff is it supported?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2.1 Is just a recent update. Nothing too different from 2.0 (from what i understand)
Most NVidia cards are 2.0. But as I have implied previously, It heavily relies the PSU from my understanding. Make sure that you have something that can fit and work out for you.
ArtificialMusik said:
2.1 Is just a recent update. Nothing too different from 2.0 (from what i understand)
Most NVidia cards are 2.0. But as I have implied previously, It heavily relies the PSU from my understanding. Make sure that you have something that can fit and work out for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot bro, I will buy a new psu to make sure it can handle it
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LoveisPeace2012 said:
Thanks a lot bro, I will buy a new psu to make sure it can handle it
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is a good place to learn about PSUs and which ones are best...at least it used to be 3 or 4 years ago.
http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/index.php?
.
Moved to proper section, please read the rules before posting
If you have a small case, make sure you measure the space you have available and check that against the card dimensions. Some of the newer ones are behemoths! Check your PSU rating. If it's 600W+ you easily have enough juice to power any single GPU card on the market.
What resolution do you play at and what CPU do you currently have? It'd be pointless adding a GTX 580 to a system running a dual-core at anything less than 3.0Ghz, and ideally you'd want a quad-core running that speed to get the best from the top of the line gfx cards. Equally, if you play at 720 res, a top card would be overkill. Basically balance is what you want.
Assuming your PC is medium spec i would suggest a GTX560 TI for medium res, or GTX570 if you play at 1680x1050 or above.
Other stuff to consider.
Courtesy of the nice people at HP your motherboard looks like this:-
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01386897&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en
The graphics slot is the large black one above the HP logo.
A decent graphics card, and its resident cooler, will probably obscure both the small PCI express slots below it, and if there is anything in the bottom standard PCI slot, that may obscure the air intake for the GPU cooler fan. Anything in these slots?
Graphics Cards need their own six, (later eight) pin PCI power sockets, (some of the older amp hungry cards needed two six pin sockets!). As mentioned above your power supply needs to able to supply this amount of grunt.
What sort of case does this all fit in? If it is a HP slimline case, you may struggle trying to shoehorn all this in the case, as well as the fact that slimline cases tend to have bespoke power supplies.
It usually worth doing a fair bit of groundwork first, before parting with your hard earned moolah. It can sometimes end up as a complete rebuild to get it all to work properly. Been there, done it, got the T-Shirt.
Good luck!
stephj said:
Other stuff to consider.
Courtesy of the nice people at HP your motherboard looks like this:-
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c01386897&lc=en&cc=us&dlc=en
The graphics slot is the large black one above the HP logo.
A decent graphics card, and its resident cooler, will probably obscure both the small PCI express slots below it, and if there is anything in the bottom standard PCI slot, that may obscure the air intake for the GPU cooler fan. Anything in these slots?
Graphics Cards need their own six, (later eight) pin PCI power sockets, (some of the older amp hungry cards needed two six pin sockets!). As mentioned above your power supply needs to able to supply this amount of grunt.
What sort of case does this all fit in? If it is a HP slimline case, you may struggle trying to shoehorn all this in the case, as well as the fact that slimline cases tend to have bespoke power supplies.
It usually worth doing a fair bit of groundwork first, before parting with your hard earned moolah. It can sometimes end up as a complete rebuild to get it all to work properly. Been there, done it, got the T-Shirt.
Good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the advice I am going to take it, first I am going to buy a new case its the Fractal Core 1000 series. It's a micro atx mini tower, I was looking at power supplies, if I have a micro atx motherboard does that mean I need a micro atx psu?
ok my post vreww
0S0 said:
ok my post vreww
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pass that blunt bro
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LoveisPeace2012 said:
Pass that blunt bro
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm... talking from experience here, so bear with me.
1. New GPUs are hot. I mean they suck the juice outta you. I mean, they run at high temperatures and require a high wattage PSU. That being said, usually they will have six/eight pin, sometimes double(!) power connectors. My 6950 is running two six-pin connectors. Also, almost all PCI-E ports are x16, and I'm sure the above posters have done their legwork for you. Since you're looking at a single card solution, getting something top-of-the-line, or thereabouts will do. NVIDIA/AMD doesn't matter, just get the BIGGEST, FATTEST, FASTEST (first two doesn't really jive with the last, right) card you can afford. This saves money, and gives you more bang for your buckeroos. They're BIG too. The size of my 6950 is drawn in the red box.
2. Smart move on getting a new case. Refer to no.1 for a good reason why I'm saying this. Here's a bonus tip; try getting it for FREE. Recycling centres, friends, even random custom PC shops might have them. check around your area. #1 important criteria for a PC-case = size. Bigger is better, and if it's the size of your room, huzzah! DISCLAIMER: my parents own a shop. I snatch free screwdrivers, screws, the occasional case (when mine get too dusty), cardboard, plastic and duct tape (explain later) and internets (actually, my own connection is faster :-|).
3. Air-flow + cooling. Almost split this to two different topics, but WTH. The are drawn in lime green is the size of a decent after-market cooler for your CPU. Depending on over-clockability, a CM Hyper 212 Plus (really cheap, like >USD20 cheap) will give you about 20%+ in temperature leeway. Good for ekking out just a bit more. WARNING: check our your processor slot first to ensure compatibility. Now, on to cooling. Notice the red and blue arrows? With the CM H212+, your airflow will change to that (you can do it the other way around, but you'll melt the PCB when playing Crysis). Oh, blue is cool air, red is hot air, but I guess that's intuitive enough, right? While it will seem idiotically retardedly stupidly imbecilic moronic dumb to let one component's hot air flow into another component's cool air intake, you should notice that purplish (borderline gay, but who am I to judge how your PC does things) block. That is your custom cooling solution, aka using plastic/cardboard + duct tape to change the airflow. Be creative, and just remember that hot air flows upwards, while being mindful of cables.
4. PSUs. Here is where $#[email protected]+ goes down. No.1 advice? Don't skimp. Components might sound cheap, but they are cheap for a reason. To cater to my 6950, I bent over and bought a 650W 80+ silver PSU. From your posts above, I surmise you understand about wattage, but you need to learn about the 80+ certification thing. It just means that when you're PC is running low loads, only 20% of the certified power draw is being used at any time. Good for energy efficiency because I leave my PC on 24-hours.
5. CPUs. @DirkGently pointed out that you shouldn't get an über-powerful (sorry for the ümlauts) GPU without getting an über-powerful (I'd apologize again, but I'm repeating myself) CPU. So... get one? NO! Over-clock that [email protected]+c#! (Note that the last exclamation mark is a mark of exclamation) My Phenom II x4 945 is showing its age, but my-oh-my it's ageing more gracefully than Lindsay Lohan.
Before I end, there's a few things I need to comment on; first being the lack of info from your side regarding the "proper" use of your PC. Specifics like, gaming at what resolutions with what usual effects on, or just simply going on Farmville to further your goals of world domination via virtual agriculture should suffice. We do not wish to learn about your [email protected]! gaming titles. Also, listing the exact and entire specs of your prior PC will go a long way towards organizing a proper refresher on your PC.
That should be about it, and thanks for indulging in my brief, profanity-laden, typing spree. Have a good day, and if this REALLY kicks off (I'll know when I get a thank or two here) I might post pretty pictures of how my monstrosity looks like.
I came to hate this thing, that damn drive took forever to spin up and caused significant lag on the tablet constantly, I regretted not just getting a flash based one. So, this week I got bored and pried it apart. Pulled out the drive, used Gparted to shrink the partition to 120gb, copied that partition to an OCZ Petrol 128gb SSD, took it out of the metal case, and sticky taped that bad boy in. Tablet is amazingly fast now Movies load instantly. I never see that hated drive access indicator anymore. I shall see if the battery life is any better. Putting a mechanical drive in something like this was a terrible idea. I have some pics of the guts of this thing if anyone is interested.
yes upload photos, pictures of the tabled opened too. is hd sata? thank you
It is indeed SATA. Has an extremely easy to pull out of the motherboard cable that caused it to short the old SSD I was going to use. So watch that. Also, the original drive was covered in gold metal tape that was a beast to pull off, I suppose for RF shielding. I forgot to take pictures before I took the drive out. The only negative so far is that I now have that weird screen anomaly, which has GOT to be something pushing against the screen's back, I may have gotten a wire in the way. I will yank it back apart later this week to address that. Didn't have it before. It has TWO big batteries in it as well. In the pictures, the circuit board near the top kind of by itself is the naked SSD in the former drive bay. Motherboard is at the bottom, in one of them, you can see the bigger battery laying outside on my table.
Mega props to you. That's am awesome project. I installed a sad in my notebook and it was the best thing I ever did for performance.
Sent from my ARCHOS 80G9 using Tapatalk
great idea
have you a process ? (send me by mp)
is sata port also present in the no hd g9 mainboard? thank you
Nice Project
Nice project.
Was just wondering if the RAM is soldered onto the board or it is upgradable as I got the 80 G9 8GB non turbo and could do with a ram boost.
Not sure if the innards are the same as the 250GB model but worth asking as you have had it open.
Thanks in advance.
Psi.
wifi
Hello, could you say where is wifi antenna?
I have problem with the strength of signal...
Thank you
wonderka said:
Hello, could you say where is wifi antenna?
I have problem with the strength of signal...
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that's just a universal issue with the archos g9 tablets.
You just got to re-position your router closer or use 3G dongle.
Psi.
well, I bought stronger router because of signal, but no change. So I compare my and my colleague Archos G9 80 and samsung mobile and my tablet was about 30-50% worse...
Factory reset I tried
No idea id the non-hdd has it, I only own the Hdd model. Since my case is actually thicker, I imagine it doesn't exist in the non-hdd, and seeing as I. have no micro sd slot. There are physical differences in the models. I was looking at the mobo, as I wanted to upgrade the ram as well, didn't see anything that looked like a SODIMM slot. I imagine its soldered in. I will check again when I crack it to fix the screen issue. I will attempt aome sort of legible walkthrough when I get some time.
sent from my Holy Rezound. its cooler than your phone.
steve adams said:
Mega props to you. That's am awesome project. I installed a sad in my notebook and it was the best thing I ever did for performance.
Sent from my ARCHOS 80G9 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's so much faster in this too. Battery life seems much better so far. Off charger all day, light use, at 75% now. I'm wondering if the HDD model has the 2 batteries to compensate for the extra drain. I found it odd that it has 2 different sized batteries wedged in it.
Sent from my ARCHOS 80G9 using xda premium
Mine is the same. Even when sitting on top of my router I don't get full signal
Sent from my ARCHOS 80G9 using Tapatalk
reverendbill said:
It's so much faster in this too. Battery life seems much better so far. Off charger all day, light use, at 75% now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
SSD's are faster and since there is no moving part they require less power to operate
reverendbill said:
I'm wondering if the HDD model has the 2 batteries to compensate for the extra drain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's very likely
reverendbill said:
I found it odd that it has 2 different sized batteries wedged in it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Physical shape/size doesn't matter, I bet they have the same capacity (connecting batteries with different capacity together would kill them both soon)
way cool reverendbill! (and assuming rather broadly that you are clergy, good luck with holy week!) i am considering purchasing the new 1gb version of the g9 101 250gb and am inspired by your work. i am pretty clever with a screwdriver and an idiot with programming and would really like to know how you get all your data off the old hdd and onto the new ssd. please be as detailed as possible (i'm sure others would love to know as well) pm and email if necessary. thanks in advance for your time and patience!
did you have to do anything special to the new drive? I see you did a partition copy, but is that needed if you don't care about loosing whats on it? Right now, I only have two movies and a few songs on mine because I just got it and haven't done much as far as copying my media to it. Yet...
So I'm just curious if getting a new drive to work is as simple as formatting it correctly and that's it. Guess I'd have to format it under linux so I could do ext4 properly? Or will the archos format it just fine?
I tested battery drop after in 3 different gen 9 archos...one with original, one with a massive 1TB, one with M4 SSD...
No significant battery improvements...Giving it's not scientific test but still.
Every time I measured battery after one how of playing video and always had a drop of around 25% to 27% in both of them..
I also tried a hybride SSD/HDD seagate and same thing.
So please do the SSD replacement for other reasons; quite operation, less, heat, less weight, less failure. As af as speed and power consumption not very much to gain acording to my tests.
The only explanation may well be that since Archos is already pairing Flash to HDD and caching...the HDD is turned off as needed. Ran seveal speed test reading and writing...and did not see much change...I guess it'all just go thru the cache flash used by the HDD versions of Archos.
That was my experience. I reverted back to my 1Tb HDD..No gain for me with an expensive HDD. The hDD is very cheap and if it fails I can still replace it just like that.
Hey guys!
hitman72 said:
is sata port also present in the no hd g9 mainboard? thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, there's no USB2SATA logic on the S models.
psiman24 said:
Was just wondering if the RAM is soldered onto the board or it is upgradable as I got the 80 G9 8GB non turbo and could do with a ram boost.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
RAM is soldered on top of the CPU, it's called PoP memory.
psiman24 said:
Not sure if the innards are the same as the 250GB model but worth asking as you have had it open.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, mainboards are different, see my comment above.
reverendbill said:
I was looking at the mobo, as I wanted to upgrade the ram as well, didn't see anything that looked like a SODIMM slot. I imagine its soldered in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure... see above. You'll never find something like a SODIMM slot or similar inside cost sensitive devices like tablets. Please be aware that most of them are not x86 but based on ARM SoC's.
The architecture is basically very different to what you've learned from your PC at home (there's also nothing like a PC-BIOS).
See my comment here as well:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=24428967&postcount=14
Best regards,
scholbert
Would you be able to post pictures of how to open it step by step?
I have G9 80 16GB Turbo. The plastic part of the inner micro USB feeder is broken and sticked out to the USB charger pin. My USB charger cable now blocked by that and cannot be use anymore. Now in the feeder just remain 4 tiny metals without plastic support (4 USB pins connector) and not able to take charge by anyway, bricked because of no battery power. It was just 2 months old and no warranty since I bought it in airport transit.
1. I've checked my Archos and did not find any screw other than single screw in the USB 3G compartment. I really thankful if you can write step-by step dismantle procedure.
2. Can you share the shape of USB type soldered to the PCB to enable me order the part and soldering it alone.
3. Thankyou in advance.
ok, i know this is a site for phone devs but im sure some of you guys have built yourself a computer or to. i have built them but never assembled by hand. im trying to re build an old Compaq using a new mother bored and video card ( even a new power supply if needed) i would like to use all my old parts if possible other then the ram ( that can be new) id like it to be a high powered computer with DDR3 ram for gaming and media editing ( it needs to have more then 2 monitors plugged into it) if i have to i will buy a new case but i would very much like to use AS MANY of the existing parts as i can (ex: HD,fans, disk drive ..etc... my price range for the new parts is about $300-600 over time . (so i will buy the parts one at a time)
(it will run win 7 x64 or Linux upon completion ) if anyone knows ..how to *ehem* get ahold of the OS in an easy fashion please post/pm me
here is a link to the specs
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883107288
General Spec
Brand
COMPAQ
Series
Presario
Model
SR2150NX(RR790AA)
Type
Home / Home Office
Processor
Intel Celeron D 356(3.33GHz)
Processor Main Features
64 bit Processor
Cache Per Processor
512KB L2 Cache
Memory
512MB PC2-4200 DDR2
Hard Drive
120GB 7200RPM SATA
Optical Drive 1
SuperMulti DVD Burner with LightScribe Technology
Graphics
ATI Radeon Xpress 1100 Graphics with 64MB dedicated graphics memory. Up to 128MB Total Available Graphics Memory as allocated by Windows Vista
Audio
Integrated audio
Ethernet
10/100BaseT network interface
Operating System
Windows Vista Home Basic
Motherboard
Chipset
ATI Radeon Xpress 1100 Chipset
CPU
CPU Type
Celeron D
Installed Qty
1
CPU FSB
533MHz
CPU Speed
356(3.33GHz)
L2 Cache Per CPU
512KB
CPU Main Features
64 bit Processor
Graphics
GPU/VPU Type
ATI Radeon Xpress 1100 Integrated
Graphics Interface
Integrated video
Memory
Memory Speed
DDR2 533
Form Factor
DIMM 240-pin
Memory Spec
1000MB x 2
Memory Slots (Available/Total)
1/2
Hard Drive
HDD Capacity
120GBx2
HDD Interface
SATA
HDD RPM
7200rpm
HDD Spec
SATA 3Gb/s
Audio
Audio Chipset
Integrated
Communications
Modem
56k modem
LAN Chipset
Integrated
LAN Speed
10/100Mbps
Front Panel Ports
Front USB
2
Front Audio Ports
Headphone
Back Panel Ports
PS/2
2
Video Ports
1 VGA
Rear USB
2
RJ45
1 port
Rear Audio Ports
Microphone/line-in/line-out
Expansion
PCI Slots (Available/Total)
(2/3) PCI slots
(1/1) PCI Express x16 Slot
front
http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/83-107-288-05.jpg
inside
http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/83-107-288-10.jpg
back
http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/productimage/83-107-288-12.jpg
thank you for your help!
.
Thread moved. Would advise you to read forum rules and post in correct section.
Failure to comply with forum rules will result in an infraction and/or ban depending on severity of rule break.
The only thing that you can get from that is a working PSU, all the fans, RAM, HDDs, CD/DVD drive and the casing itself. Based on your preference, you have to change the motherboard and the processor to a newer one.
OR, you can stick with the old setup, but with liquid cooling for extreme overclocking and higher spec PSU. I think there is a PCIe slot in it, doesn't it? So stick in a higher end GPU and voila! XD
Budget? Dunno, there is so much difference in monetary exchange I lose my calculation.
drpsyko said:
The only thing that you can get from that is a working PSU, all the fans, RAM, HDDs, CD/DVD drive and the casing itself. Based on your preference, you have to change the motherboard and the processor to a newer one.
OR, you can stick with the old setup, but with liquid cooling for extreme overclocking and higher spec PSU. I think there is a PCIe slot in it, doesn't it? So stick in a higher end GPU and voila! XD
Budget? Dunno, there is so much difference in monetary exchange I lose my calculation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was planning to upgrade the mother bored and put a i7 in it with a new video card a bit later . I should be saving a bunch of money by recycling the old components. Considering I'm only going to need the mother and the i7 right away. Then mby a power supply ( which I may be able to take from an old computer somewhere )
It has 2 PCi and 1 pci e ( I was going to just upgrade with a video card at one point but the computer is just so slow and incompatible with most new cards )
I don't have much in terms of monetary funding so I was planning to do this over time .
sent from my Atrix 4g using tapatalk 2
ianwardell said:
I was planning to upgrade the mother bored and put a i7 in it with a new video card a bit later . I should be saving a bunch of money by recycling the old components. Considering I'm only going to need the mother and the i7 right away. Then mby a power supply ( which I may be able to take from an old computer somewhere )
It has 2 PCi and 1 pci e ( I was going to just upgrade with a video card at one point but the computer is just so slow and incompatible with most new cards )
I don't have much in terms of monetary funding so I was planning to do this over time .
sent from my Atrix 4g using tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't buy parts over time.
You will end up kicking yourself.
OmegaRED^ said:
Don't buy parts over time.
You will end up kicking yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK , so its better to save up and buy at the same time then?
sent from my Atrix 4g using tapatalk 2
OmegaRED^ said:
Don't buy parts over time.
You will end up kicking yourself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So true. Though this is a bad time to purchase parts. Urgh, how I wish I bought my PC from back then before the flood happen. But then, purchasing all of it in one go is a good thing. You can get bundle price, freebies, and you ought to buy different things in that specific time, given that you have accumulate enough money. Aaaand, all the prices will be lower eventually. So, it's best for you now to start saving money and generate patience.
Since i often help guys with upgrades and so on.
I would suggest you please take my advice.
Too many people i know hurt them self by not saving and buying a entire new machine.
Sometimes they end up wasting way more than what was planned.
Also ask yourself this question "what am I using my PC for?"
Because i7 is way hardcore overpowered... but a very good choice for gaming.
Best of luck.
I'm on a:
AMD Phenom II x6 T1100
8GB ram
"Hybrid" gpu setup "not recommended to AMD 2GB 7890HD + n-vidia 250gtx on crossfire board"
It's not the best.. but it's a bang for what i paid.
So far nothing lags my pc... ever.
i can play "lol" while compiling in the background, watching anime and still have loads of resources left.
OmegaRED^ said:
I'm on a:
AMD Phenom II x6 T1100
8GB ram
"Hybrid" gpu setup "not recommended to AMD 2GB 7890HD + n-vidia 250gtx on crossfire board"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dat setup!
Damn, you made me jelly. It really is not recommended, but that firepower...even Unigene would cry.
drpsyko said:
Dat setup!
Damn, you made me jelly. It really is not recommended, but that firepower...even Unigene would cry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know... completely overpowered.
And the price wasn't even that bad.
And i can safely say stability is spot on with intel.
drpsyko said:
So true. Though this is a bad time to purchase parts. Urgh, how I wish I bought my PC from back then before the flood happen. But then, purchasing all of it in one go is a good thing. You can get bundle price, freebies, and you ought to buy different things in that specific time, given that you have accumulate enough money. Aaaand, all the prices will be lower eventually. So, it's best for you now to start saving money and generate patience.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a laptop that has an i7 chip in it and a dedicated graphics card + an integrated one
. So I can't have a desktop with less power then my laptop . ( I used a replacement to get this laptop ) verizon expert care or w/e its called is amazing ! I told them " the reason my computer failed is because of the inter grated graphics card" and they said OK and showed me computers with dedicated ones ( it was a true statement ) . I have started saving up for the computer and Im hoping if I get the money right before win 8 is out I can by the parts cheeper because the company have new parts coming out at that time.when I used to have the money I would buy a new system . But I just can't spend 1 grand on a computer...when what I really want is a project and something to have fun with and video edit+ play games .
OmegaRED^ said:
Since i often help guys with upgrades and so on.
I would suggest you please take my advice.
Too many people i know hurt them self by not saving and buying a entire new machine.
Sometimes they end up wasting way more than what was planned.
Also ask yourself this question "what am I using my PC for?"
Because i7 is way hardcore overpowered... but a very good choice for gaming.
Best of luck.
I'm on a:
AMD Phenom II x6 T1100
8GB ram
"Hybrid" gpu setup "not recommended to AMD 2GB 7890HD + n-vidia 250gtx on crossfire board"
It's not the best.. but it's a bang for what i paid.
So far nothing lags my pc... ever.
i can play "lol" while compiling in the background, watching anime and still have loads of resources left.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im going to use it for gaming and video editing + school
sent from my Atrix 4g using tapatalk 2
ianwardell said:
I have a laptop that has an i7 chip in it and a dedicated graphics card + an integrated one
. So I can't have a desktop with less power then my laptop . ( I used a replacement to get this laptop ) verizon expert care or w/e its called is amazing ! I told them " the reason my computer failed is because of the inter grated graphics card" and they said OK and showed me computers with dedicated ones ( it was a true statement ) . I have started saving up for the computer and Im hoping if I get the money right before win 8 is out I can by the parts cheeper because the company have new parts coming out at that time.when I used to have the money I would buy a new system . But I just can't spend 1 grand on a computer...when what I really want is a project and something to have fun with and video edit+ play games .
Im going to use it for gaming and video editing + school
sent from my Atrix 4g using tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then go for power.. save up.. buy once.
Phenom II should serve you well.
Nothing less than the T1050... and i suggest you stay away from the new bulldozer chips.
They need to mature more first.
Else core i5 if your a bit AMD shy.
OmegaRED^ said:
Then go for power.. save up.. buy once.
Phenom II should serve you well.
Nothing less than the T1050... and i suggest you stay away from the new bulldozer chips.
They need to mature more first.
Else core i5 if your a bit AMD shy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am AMD shy, im sorry to say i am a huge Intel fan ( due to the fact that most of the computers i have had that are AMD haven't lasted but the Intel ones have) im working on saving up the money , i should have enough in about a month or two i hope
OmegaRED^ said:
Then go for power.. save up.. buy once.
Phenom II should serve you well.
Nothing less than the T1050... and i suggest you stay away from the new bulldozer chips.
They need to mature more first.
Else core i5 if your a bit AMD shy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
ianwardell said:
i am AMD shy, im sorry to say i am a huge Intel fan ( due to the fact that most of the computers i have had that are AMD haven't lasted but the Intel ones have) im working on saving up the money , i should have enough in about a month or two i hope
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sorry for your AMD loss.
Good luck with the savings and the new computer.
drpsyko said:
+1
I'm sorry for your AMD loss.
Good luck with the savings and the new computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i appreciate it !
what i have picked thus far
i chose liquid cooling due to the fact that the case i am using is small and doesn't have very much air flow.
(push pull configuration from back fan)
the PSU is variable but so far to be safe im going with a 500W
the memory is also something i might lower to 1x4gb however at this moment im going with 8
the I7 is so the computer has more power then my laptop
what i need to decide upon is a good Micro ATX motherboard that can handle the equipment im using and be able to have more then one 4 pin fan plug in
the motherboard also needs to be able to use all 4 of the PCIe/PCI slots on my computer with the ability to use the existing front USB (2x) ports and the 1 headphone jack also in front
i also need a good video card, i would like to be able to at some point fit 2 in (as an upgrade in the future ) but that is wishful thinking im going to be installing a wireless N card (at some point) so the MB needs to be able to have that with the video card
any ideas on a video card?
( i like nvida as a #1 and ATI as #2) in order of my favs
thanks for your help, also the links to the parts above are below .!
TOPOWER ZU-500W 500W ATX12V Ver. 2.0 Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817101011
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820231314
Antec Kuhler H2O 620 Liquid Cooling System
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209049
Intel Core i7-2600 Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 ...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115071
motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...-na&AID=10521304&PID=4176827&SID=n8p9f7wlxa1y
this is the micro ATX board i thought was the best i could find. any ideas? i am measuring to see if i could put an ATX instead of a micro atx (i believe i might be able to get one to fit)
*edit*
im looking for full size cases just to see if i could get a bigger board (and more fan space) so that means for the time being im looking at both micro atx and atx
*edit #2 *
I decided to get a new case so i can put a full ATX board in and have the ability to cool the machine.
im still looking at motherboards and video cards i have everything else either picked out or i own the part already
NEW CART
COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233
TOPOWER ZU-500W 500W ATX12V Ver. 2.0 Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817101011
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314
Antec Kuhler H2O 620 Liquid Cooling System
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209049
Intel Core i7-2600 Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I72600
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115071
*edit 4*
here are the mother and the video card and the new case
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58 Black CECC Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112237
XFX Double D HD-695X-CDFC Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with ...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150549
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.892323
what i have picked
ok what case should i go with
Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, come with Five Fans, window side panel, top HDD dock
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.892323
vs
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58 Black CECC Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112237
Hmmm...seems like a decent setup. But then, please revise your selection of PSU. The HD 6950 could drain a lot of power from that PSU as high as 300w. And for future expandability, I would recommend you to use higher output PSU. That is if you planning to use SLI or crossfire configuration. The casing is an OK, but for me, I don't really emphasis on casing. I'm a DIY user, that is. Hehe. As my opinion on the cooling system, there is no need for the processor's liquid cooling. For now, it is best for you to use stock cooling block as it is already adequate enough.
As for the alternative option, you can change entire casing and cooling system into custom liquid cooling system from Koolance. IF, you have extra budget to spare AND planning for expanding your setup or overclocking your processor and GPU.
drpsyko said:
Hmmm...seems like a decent setup. But then, please revise your selection of PSU. The HD 6950 could drain a lot of power from that PSU as high as 300w. And for future expandability, I would recommend you to use higher output PSU. That is if you planning to use SLI or crossfire configuration. The casing is an OK, but for me, I don't really emphasis on casing. I'm a DIY user, that is. Hehe. As my opinion on the cooling system, there is no need for the processor's liquid cooling. For now, it is best for you to use stock cooling block as it is already adequate enough.
As for the alternative option, you can change entire casing and cooling system into custom liquid cooling system from Koolance. IF, you have extra budget to spare AND planning for expanding your setup or overclocking your processor and GPU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what would you recommend as a good enough PSU? also i figured that if i off the bat installed liquid cooling in that one spot then when i did upgrade further (another day) and put in another video card i could still be safe in knowing that certain parts will stay cool .
like this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817159126
I'm interested in building my own gaming pc, something that can run games like BF3 and Fallout 3, New Vegas on full graphics. If I had to throw a price out there, I would say something under $700, the cheaper the better. I don't have a preference in parts since I am not experienced at all in this. I have looked at different videos and tutorials on this but I wanted peoples opinions on specific combinations, part brands, etc. Thank you beforehand! :good:
I asked this question here before, a member recommended me to go to overclocked.net they could help you out alot there on how to build a computer and what parts fit your specific needs
Sent from my LG-VM696 using Tapatalk 2
I think this isn't very helpful but you should check alienware. They have that desktop for 700 bucks which has great specs.
Georges2251 said:
I think this isn't very helpful but you should check alienware. They have that desktop for 700 bucks which has great specs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DO NOT get an alienware. They are the apple of PC's. You pay a huge premium for fancy lights.
Get a computer with something along these lines:
Nvidia gtx 670
8-16 gig ram
Because of your price range you might have to go i5 as your processor
Asus motherboards are the bomb.
A cool case but don't spend more than 40 bucks on the case.
Any store you would recommend for the parts, something maybe cheaper and as reliable as New Egg?
Moved to Off-topic.
tigerdirect.com is a great place for parts
quad core CPU i5 or i7 $200
8gb ram 1600mhz or above $40
500 or 600 gtx series nvidia video card $200
SSD 128gb or above $200
750w power supply $50
Those prices are a guestimation based on average market prices. You don't need to trick out your case IMO, any that will fit your motherboard and everything else is fine. Frys electronics is a local electronics store near me that sells it all if you have one near you go there.
Thanks guys, this really gives me a good idea on what I need. What about in regards to the monitor and such. Anything good for the money? Any tips will be really appreciated.
valdesr11 said:
Thanks guys, this really gives me a good idea on what I need. What about in regards to the monitor and such. Anything good for the money? Any tips will be really appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This was as close as I could get on newegg:
Antec Three Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Item #: N82E16811129042
$54.99
SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Item #: N82E16822152185
$69.99
Acer G215HVAbd Black 21.5" Full HD WideScreen LCD Monitor
Item #: N82E16824009306
$119.99
SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card (100314-3L )
Item #: N82E16814102948
$169.99
Antec NEO ECO 520C 520W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817371030
$59.99
G.SKILL Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model F3-10600CL9D-8GBNT
Item #: N82E16820231422
$39.99
Intel BOXDZ77SL50K LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Item #: N82E16813121618
$119.99
Intel Core i3-2120 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA 1155 65W Dual-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I32120
Item #: N82E16819115077
$124.99
Total before shipping+tax: $759.92
Could probably be brought down some by going with cheaper/ghetto on many of the parts like power supply, mobo, vid card, memory, case.
Also this does not take into account a copy of Windows (could be had cheaply if you are a college student through your school most likely) and keyboard+mouse.
Also could shop around for prices, Amazon can be pretty good as well as other sites mentioned.
I mostly stick with Antec for cases/power supplies these days, they're not super-gamer oriented by they have good 12v amperage and reliability.
I've been going intel not only CPUs but also Mobos for the same reasons, they are no frills reference boards. Simple and reliable. I see the appeal of overclocking but it just has never been a priority, spending more money on proper mobo+cooling to possibly reduce video encode times by seconds, maybe minutes?
Same with SLI/Crossfire, by the time I think I could benefit from a 2nd card the newer cards are already as good if not better for around what I paid for the first one.
If you did expand your budget I'd recommend a Crucial SSD drive over beefing up the CPU and mobo. You'll get more real performance gains from an SSD. Just don't benchmark it every day like a moron, they do have limited write cycles but it will last many many years with normal use not continuous torture testing.
Nice choice.. but it would be better if you go for i5 or i7 quad core processor.. they will give you higher fps and smoother performance..
Sent from the Underdog..
heinrichkaiser said:
Nice choice.. but it would be better if you go for i5 or i7 quad core processor.. they will give you higher fps and smoother performance..
Sent from the Underdog..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Considering his budget I'd stick with the i3. An i5 won't give any meaningful performance gains for the majority of games out there as they are usually not multi-threaded.
Google for: "The Clarkdale Review: Intel's Core i5 661, i3 540 & i3 530"
It's an AnandTech review, there is a gaming page and it shows there really is only a 3-7 frame difference between the processors, and that's with the FPS being over 70.
Also as I said aside from the graphics card a Crucial SSD would provide the biggest performance gains overall. For games it will significantly cut down launch and load times. And it will make everything else faster, but with the budget as it is that will probably be an upgrade for later (though the prices have come down quite a bit, they are now under the $1/1GB ratio).
Also if you are on a budget, I'd also recommend picking up a basic Dell with an i3 processor and a PCI-Express slot and then getting a Radeon 6850 or 6870. Then expand the ram out yourself as well. It would probably be the cheapest way to get a decent base that you could upgrade to gaming duty.
I'm not really on a budget, I just wouldn't want to spend too much. I do play, but not to an extent that I would go all out. I play maybe a couple of times a week, mostly online with BF3 and story modes on games like Fallout and Skyrim. I decided to sell my laptop since my family got me an Ipad for my birthday, and with the PC that I build with this I can sell my Xbox as well with all its games. Then I'll use my PC for school, games, and surfing the web. The Ipad for traveling and taking it to school. You guys know more than me about what is best when it comes to gaming PC's, I just want to get my money's worth and not make a mistake when putting it together. If I need to go over my "budget" a bit, its no big deal, same with letting me know if you think I shouldn't even build one and just get a Dell like you said, and upgrade the main parts for gaming in order to save money.
valdesr11 said:
I'm not really on a budget, I just wouldn't want to spend too much. I do play, but not to an extent that I would go all out. I play maybe a couple of times a week, mostly online with BF3 and story modes on games like Fallout and Skyrim. I decided to sell my laptop since my family got me an Ipad for my birthday, and with the PC that I build with this I can sell my Xbox as well with all its games. Then I'll use my PC for school, games, and surfing the web. The Ipad for traveling and taking it to school. You guys know more than me about what is best when it comes to gaming PC's, I just want to get my money's worth and not make a mistake when putting it together. If I need to go over my "budget" a bit, its no big deal, same with letting me know if you think I shouldn't even build one and just get a Dell like you said, and upgrade the main parts for gaming in order to save money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Building a PC isn't too bad nowadays but there are weird little quirks you can run into.
For instance, I build a system for my wife and got a case with USB3.0 front ports but the mobo only had USB2.0 front panel connectors, oops. Ended up having to buy an adapter from another case manufacturer, wasn't a huge deal but was a little annoying. I've also had issues with cases having more fans and plug harnesses than the motherboard had but that is less the case as a lot of case fans use molex harnesses.
frank_jaeger said:
Building a PC isn't too bad nowadays but there are weird little quirks you can run into.
For instance, I build a system for my wife and got a case with USB3.0 front ports but the mobo only had USB2.0 front panel connectors, oops. Ended up having to buy an adapter from another case manufacturer, wasn't a huge deal but was a little annoying. I've also had issues with cases having more fans and plug harnesses than the motherboard had but that is less the case as a lot of case fans use molex harnesses.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah stuff like this is what I want to avoid.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
valdesr11 said:
Yeah stuff like this is what I want to avoid.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I listed earlier is a pretty decent start point I think.
Case obviously is very much up to taste, I like the Antec 300 because it has a lot of bays, large rear and top fans and looks nice. No chrome and lights n stuff.
Video card could be swapped based on brand/manufacturer preference.
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
Item #: N82E16832116986
$99.99
Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD2 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Item #: N82E16820148443
$179.99
Adding the OS (Win7 Home 64-bit OEM) and the SSD drive bumps the total up to $1,035.90.
The SSD drive would be for OS, games, programs. And any big files like movies, music, etc could go on the regular 1TB.
As far as actually assembling it you can probably find some pretty good generic guides but really just need to take it slow and follow the directions. The case comes with these kind of "post" screws, that you put on first and then the MB sits on those and then you use the normal little screws. And check everything to make sure the screws you use are the correct threading for where you put them.
Oh and IO panel cover that comes with the MB goes into the case first before mounting the MB itself.
One weird area is connecting all the front panel switches and lights (power, hdd activity) from the case to the MB, usually isn't too bad as the case plugs are labeled and then you just color match.
I honestly think an i3 will be sufficient for normal use and gaming. Additional threads/cores won't really show their worth unless you're doing 3D rendering or lots of encoding jobs.
Only thing is with the OEM license it would be paired to the motherboard at license time. The retail license which you can move between complete systems is an additional $80.
frank_jaeger said:
What I listed earlier is a pretty decent start point I think.
Case obviously is very much up to taste, I like the Antec 300 because it has a lot of bays, large rear and top fans and looks nice. No chrome and lights n stuff.
Video card could be swapped based on brand/manufacturer preference.
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
Item #: N82E16832116986
$99.99
Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD2 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Item #: N82E16820148443
$179.99
Adding the OS (Win7 Home 64-bit OEM) and the SSD drive bumps the total up to $1,035.90.
The SSD drive would be for OS, games, programs. And any big files like movies, music, etc could go on the regular 1TB.
As far as actually assembling it you can probably find some pretty good generic guides but really just need to take it slow and follow the directions. The case comes with these kind of "post" screws, that you put on first and then the MB sits on those and then you use the normal little screws. And check everything to make sure the screws you use are the correct threading for where you put them.
Oh and IO panel cover that comes with the MB goes into the case first before mounting the MB itself.
One weird area is connecting all the front panel switches and lights (power, hdd activity) from the case to the MB, usually isn't too bad as the case plugs are labeled and then you just color match.
I honestly think an i3 will be sufficient for normal use and gaming. Additional threads/cores won't really show their worth unless you're doing 3D rendering or lots of encoding jobs.
Only thing is with the OEM license it would be paired to the motherboard at license time. The retail license which you can move between complete systems is an additional $80.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fortunately, my school provides us with Windows 7 (all versions) for free. So that's $100 I can save. Building it doesn't worry me as much as getting the right parts and making sure they work for what I need them for. What is the deal with AMD and why do people love Intel so much over it?
valdesr11 said:
Fortunately, my school provides us with Windows 7 (all versions) for free. So that's $100 I can save. Building it doesn't worry me as much as getting the right parts and making sure they work for what I need them for. What is the deal with AMD and why do people love Intel so much over it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Intel hit a homerun with the initial Core 2 Duo/Quad processors after the old Core Duo pieces of crap. Since then they haven't let their quality and performance drop. They were the SSD leaders for awhile as well but Crucial took that away from them, Samsung is making noise but still hasn't been proven.
Really though it just comes down to preference. I'm not really up to date on what AMDs current cpu offerings are, I switched from AMD to Intel during the Core 2 Duo days and stuck into the Core i series. Basically it seems the AMD cpus are sub-par compared to Intel offerings and to counter-balance AMD cuts the price.
Granted while I have no preference for AMDs processors I love their GPUs. The Radeon HD 4870 made a lot of waves when it came out and they've continued to deliver. The 6850/70/90 have excellent performance to price ratios.
That's another item you could swap, is the 6850 for the 6870 (what I'm running currently) or a comparable Nvidia card, just check the reviews on sites like anandtech, tomshardware, legitreviews. Again this is all opinion but the card manufacturers I've been partial to lately are Sapphire/XFX/EVGA, mostly Sapphire because they are the least expensive and I've had great results with them. ASUS and Gigabyte would probably be ok.
Also as an earlier posted said you can most likely get better info/recommendations from a dedicated site like overclock.net.
SKYNET 1.0
Good morning everyone,
I thought I should share the official build I purchased last night. Came out to a little more expensive than I wanted but it will be worth it in the end.
And that's with not doing exactly what I wanted of having two monitors and throwing in there a home theater system build as well.
So I just kept it as a gaming system for now. I will either be upgrading it as I go or sell it in the future and build my second one when I have money for it with exactly what I want, and possibly learn to overclock
1 x Logitech MK550 Black USB RF Wireless Ergonomic Wave Combo
1 x APC BE450G 450 VA 257 Watts UPS
1 x ASRock B75 PRO3 LGA 1155 Intel B75 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
1 x Newegg Free CPU Magazine Coupon
1 x Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, ...
1 x ASUS VH242H Black 23.6" 5ms HDMI Full 1080P Widescreen LCD Monitor W/Speakers
1 x SAMSUNG 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model MV-3V4G3D/US
1 x EVGA 012-P3-1571-KR GeForce GTX 570 HD w/Display-Port (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready ...
1 x Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
1 x Rosewill CAPSTONE Series CAPSTONE-450-M 450W ATX12V v2.31 & EPS12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD ...
1 x ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
1 x Intel Core i5-3470 Ivy Bridge 3.2GHz (3.6GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics ...
Everything including shipping came out to $1,077.18 - $30 in rebates.
I'll post some pictures later on of the building process just to share with you guys.
P.S. Thank you guys for all the advice and mad credit to everyone from the overclock.net community. You were all great and a big influence on my build.
Nice!!!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Hello, this might sound like an oddity, but what I want to do is re-purpose my old Panasonic CF-29C by gutting the motherboard and replacing it with something a bit better. Currently I am stuck on Windows XP however, I can't find a motherboard small enough to fit in the spot where it needs to go. The motherboard dimensions measure, 5.5"x5.5"x1" and I have 2 older smartphones that I would also like to re-purpose. So I was wondering if there is/was anyway to connect old phones so they can share processing power/ram and be used like a normal computer. I would just take and use their motherboards (because I need something more powerful than an Intel Pentium M...
Any ideas on how to do this would be nice. Thanks
austinkregel said:
Hello, this might sound like an oddity, but what I want to do is re-purpose my old Panasonic CF-29C by gutting the motherboard and replacing it with something a bit better. Currently I am stuck on Windows XP however, I can't find a motherboard small enough to fit in the spot where it needs to go. The motherboard dimensions measure, 5.5"x5.5"x1" and I have 2 older smartphones that I would also like to re-purpose. So I was wondering if there is/was anyway to connect old phones so they can share processing power/ram and be used like a normal computer. I would just take and use their motherboards (because I need something more powerful than an Intel Pentium M...
Any ideas on how to do this would be nice. Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't connect phones and "share the processing power" .Applications won't be able to use the "shared power" . Plus Android is the only OS for which the phones might be optimized for.
Get a Rasberry Pi instead. . It's small ,powerful and has a fantastic dev community
http://www.raspberrypi.org/products/model-b-plus/
If you want more power you can take look at the intel NUC's and use the motherboard without the casing
+1 for raspberry pi
That would be cool. Connect all the phones, install SNES on them and have 4 player battles!!
I agree with the raspberry pi suggestion. That, or a beaglebone black.
karandpr said:
Get a Rasberry Pi instead. . It's small ,powerful and has a fantastic dev community
If you want more power you can take look at the intel NUC's and use the motherboard without the casing
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll probably go with the Intel NUC's, simply because the raspberry pi is less powerful than the toughbook currently.
austinkregel said:
I'll probably go with the Intel NUC's, simply because the raspberry pi is less powerful than the toughbook currently.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check this out .
http://blog.linuxmint.com/?p=2760
Like NUC but smaller. Official support from Linux Mint !!