Hi there, long time lurker first time poster as I cant find this problem anywhere and my googlefu has failed me.
Background:
I have a HP Touchpad 32gb, Ive been running CM9 recently.
A month or two into first getting the touchpad I had problems turning it on (assumed battery problem) and got it fixed through HP warranty, returned the same device in working order, non the wiser about what went wrong.
Onto the problem at hand:
Nearly a year later the battery appears to go below safe capacity and wont turn on at all no matter the button combination used or charge/discharge tricks/chargers.
Resorted to taking apart, removing and charging the lipo battery with a RC battery charger and SUCCESS! powers up 100% battery etc.
HOWEVER now no matter what charger or cable combination I use the battery will not charge, webos claims that I am not using the official charger yet I have tried 2 official chargers and many micro usb cables to no avail.
Using JCSullin's TPChargeTest-v1.0 application displays that the device is only receiving 100ma charge using official charger and 0ma (!!) when charging from usb host.
my next guess is that the battery is dead/dying and need a new one, but before I shell out and wait for delivery of a battery I was wondering if anyone had any similar problems or perhaps a suggestion on how to fix this?
Thanks :good:
I have left the charger plugged in with the touchpad off for 24h+ and the battery has gone from 93% to 50% in that time. The battery is clearly not charging.
Does anyone have anything I could try?
If its the battery port, you can try to get a Touchstone charger, which will eliminate the need for a charging cable. If its the battery, the only thing you can really do is try and replace it if you know how. And you are charging it in a wall outlet right? Not a computer? Because a computer wont charge it.
Having exact same problem with my touchpad which previously was charging fine off the original ac charger.
Left it charging with wifi & screen off, went from 11% to 25% in a little over 8 hours ... Not good!
Ok, further update ...
Have swapped over the usb board with another TP brick. Its now charging at the recommended 2A from the wall/mains charger.
So ... best guess seems to point to the usb port/board being faulty. Guess the only option with that is to do what I did or use a wireless charger.
Peace
Edit - a further hint that it was the usb port, was that I could not get it recognised when plugging into pc or laptop. Not in any mode, shape or form...
I had the Usb board replaced while it was still under warranty. Your lucky (sort of) that you had a spare.
Aye, lucky! It's a tp that is totally resistive to any attempts at resurrection, even tpdebrick can't touch it! So it is serving another purpose, as a donor!
I guess a touchstone would have done but file transfer was gonna prove difficult ... the damaged USB port meant my pc could not understand what the hell was being plugged in ...
chris5s said:
Ok, further update ...
Have swapped over the usb board with another TP brick. Its now charging at the recommended 2A from the wall/mains charger.
So ... best guess seems to point to the usb port/board being faulty. Guess the only option with that is to do what I did or use a wireless charger.
Peace
Edit - a further hint that it was the usb port, was that I could not get it recognised when plugging into pc or laptop. Not in any mode, shape or form...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like a similar problem to me! I shall have a look for parts online. Might try a new battery aswell.
Thanks!
alowva said:
Sounds like a similar problem to me! I shall have a look for parts online. Might try a new battery aswell.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Out of interest, what happens when you connect to a pc with the USB cable? Is the device recognised? If not, likely the USB port is u/s and a new battery might be an unnecessary expense ... Just a thought.
Peace
chris5s said:
Out of interest, what happens when you connect to a pc with the USB cable? Is the device recognised? If not, likely the USB port is u/s and a new battery might be an unnecessary expense ... Just a thought.
Peace
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent idea! I have checked on android and webos and neither are detecting a USB connection to my PC, but it does detect as "charging" however Touchpad Charge Test still shows its charging at 0ma
I thought it might have been the port assembly that was broken, and I checked to see if it was seated properly where it connects to the motherboard and it seemed to be, perhaps a the data+ or - has been broken, I shall inspect it closer and maybe get out the multimeter.
Thanks for the idea, hopefully i can fix this without getting a new battery! :good:
I have checked the micro USB port on the TP and it seems that the data connections and even possibly the power connections aren't working.
Im going to attempt to resolder them before getting a replacement as they're hard to find and expensive (In in the UK) hopefully that will fix it.
alowva said:
Hi there, long time lurker first time poster as I cant find this problem anywhere and my googlefu has failed me.
Background:
I have a HP Touchpad 32gb, Ive been running CM9 recently.
A month or two into first getting the touchpad I had problems turning it on (assumed battery problem) and got it fixed through HP warranty, returned the same device in working order, non the wiser about what went wrong.
Onto the problem at hand:
Nearly a year later the battery appears to go below safe capacity and wont turn on at all no matter the button combination used or charge/discharge tricks/chargers.
Resorted to taking apart, removing and charging the lipo battery with a RC battery charger and SUCCESS! powers up 100% battery etc.
HOWEVER now no matter what charger or cable combination I use the battery will not charge, webos claims that I am not using the official charger yet I have tried 2 official chargers and many micro usb cables to no avail.
Using JCSullin's TPChargeTest-v1.0 application displays that the device is only receiving 100ma charge using official charger and 0ma (!!) when charging from usb host.
my next guess is that the battery is dead/dying and need a new one, but before I shell out and wait for delivery of a battery I was wondering if anyone had any similar problems or perhaps a suggestion on how to fix this?
Thanks :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello @alowva,
I know it's been a long time since you posted this.
Do you remember what pin did you plugin your LIPO charger?
Did you use nicad?
I have a very low battery I need to boost.
Thanks a lot
pas7771 said:
Hello @alowva,
I know it's been a long time since you posted this.
Do you remember what pin did you plugin your LIPO charger?
Did you use nicad?
I have a very low battery I need to boost.
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well this is a blast from the past...
I eventually gave up on this tablet, but not before soldering a usb cable directly to the charging board to get a little more life out of it!
However since then I have had plenty of experience with other phones, tablets and laptops, and bare 18650 liion cells recharging and reusing for other projects.
WARNING! DO THE BELOW AT YOUR OWN RISK, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
I would recommend taking out the battery from the tablet (which is possible to do without completely dissasembling if you're careful enough)
Once removed the battery itself has a 7 pin connector, the outside wires 2x red (positive + ) and 2x black (negative - ). check the voltage on the battery using a voltmeter, "healthy" voltage is between 3v and 4.2v, if its below 3v you may have issues depending on the charger and if the battery is internally damaged.
The easiest way to connect to a charger is to use some solid core wire (or paperclip) pushed into the white connector on the battery, one wire connecting both red cables, and another connecting both black cables. then connect those wires to the red (positive + ) and black (negative - ) cables on your charger.
Charge at a slow rate and and be careful not to connect red to black!
Make sure you dont leave the charger and battery on anything flamable, a concrete floor or baking tray might help, and keep an eye on it as if the battery is internally damaged it may swell and catch fire (search for videos of lithium battery fire)
I have had a lot of success with reviving batteries in this way, however its best to be safe!
EDIT: dont use NICAD charger, only liion or lipo charger
alowva said:
Well this is a blast from the past...
I eventually gave up on this tablet, but not before soldering a usb cable directly to the charging board to get a little more life out of it!
However since then I have had plenty of experience with other phones, tablets and laptops, and bare 18650 liion cells recharging and reusing for other projects.
WARNING! DO THE BELOW AT YOUR OWN RISK, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
I would recommend taking out the battery from the tablet (which is possible to do without completely dissasembling if you're careful enough)
Once removed the battery itself has a 7 pin connector, the outside wires 2x red (positive + ) and 2x black (negative - ). check the voltage on the battery using a voltmeter, "healthy" voltage is between 3v and 4.2v, if its below 3v you may have issues depending on the charger and if the battery is internally damaged.
The easiest way to connect to a charger is to use some solid core wire (or paperclip) pushed into the white connector on the battery, one wire connecting both red cables, and another connecting both black cables. then connect those wires to the red (positive + ) and black (negative - ) cables on your charger.
Charge at a slow rate and and be careful not to connect red to black!
Make sure you dont leave the charger and battery on anything flamable, a concrete floor or baking tray might help, and keep an eye on it as if the battery is internally damaged it may swell and catch fire (search for videos of lithium battery fire)
I have had a lot of success with reviving batteries in this way, however its best to be safe!
EDIT: dont use NICAD charger, only liion or lipo charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your explanation..
I have seen videos on Lipo battery revival.
mine is at 2.540v I will use a Lipo B6 charger, some people said that slow charging in nicad or nimem mode because on lipo mode it will show a low voltage.
I do have a lipo fireproof bag.
Do you know what the blue, yelow and green wire do?
Thanks
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hi, all. there is a rumor going around that the tilt will have problems if we frequently use non-original charger or usb cable (the one came with tilt) to charge the phone or transfer data such as causing the tilt not functioning or possibly burn out the device/battery, is that true??? do we always use the original usb cable and charger for charging the ATT tilt or transfering data? cuz I m currently using a usb car adapter to charge the tilt. I m really scare of it if this rumor is true. I don't want my tilt get burnt out. Please confirm or disconfirm it.. many thx
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Rudegar said:
usb from the computer is always 5 volts and .5mAmp
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus
thats the power pda's use to charge with
unless the computer in question is really defect and provide a non std power
or you charge with a ac charger which provide a different power
you should be safe
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks for the confirmation. seriously, I didn't believe that a usb cable will cause such serious problems since there is only minor difference in the original cable and a regular usb cable. they all look the same internally except for the terminal shape.
as an extra safety precaution, i wouldn't start the car with the tilt plugged in. might be nothing, might be something. once the car is running then i'd plug the tilt in....
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Don't plug the phone in while the moon is out and the planets are aligned, it could cause the charger to spike and then brike your phone. j/k
My buddy had a problem with his USB. I think he put in a funky cable and it bent the connectors that are in the mini usb hole. Careful careful.
I would have to agree with that any usb be fine but be careful. When I first got my tilt awhile back I got this free usb car charger with it. It worked fine but something broke on the inside of it cause i could hear rattling inside. Prob a chip or something to tell the charger to stop charging if batttery is full. Well long story short I fried my usb connection and could not charge my phone or sync it. End up exchanging my Tilt out for a new one.
I am using the same USB cable to charge and sync since my Cingular 8125. I never charge using AC power.
As for car chargers, here is a simple way to check for potential power surges during starting:
1) Turn your key to "ON" but don't actually crank it. Let the radio come on and start playing. Now start the engine. Did your radio cut off during ignition?
-If Yes, unplug devices before starting because your car is not wired to supply continuous power to its outlets.
2) With your car off, and the key removed, plug in your phone. Does it start charging?
-If No, wait until the engine is running before plugging in your phone.
I am able to keep my phone connected at all times because as part of my ~$2000 audio upgrade, I also added an industrial-grade circuit breaker (not a fuse, an actual circuit breaker) between my battery and the inside of the car. In 4 years of running it, I have yet to stress it enough to pop.
Oh nice, I haven't seen too many breakers in a car. Saves on those uber expensive fuses.
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
I bought a sweet 3 in 1 charger kit from frys for 20 dolla..
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Be jealous it's ok!
http://www.wirelessemporium.com/pro...-1-mobile-phone-charger-motorola-razr2-v9.asp
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, Of course store guys are going to say that. That's what HTC says. And Store Guys are nothing but Puppets who read papers given to them by corporate and they recite them. Plus they can charge you more, there for make more money, if they sell you a OEM Charger then a "compatible" charger.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTC_ExtUSB
Plus the cable I got with my Tilt works just like a Standard USB cable so I don't think there is an issue. But what I'd like to see is the Numbers. Using the "HTC USB Sync cable" and a standard USB cable what amps are being sent. And What does the Device Prefer?
It can't use the name mini usb if it's not mini usb. I have a zippy belkin mini usb and it works greeeeat.
stanGib said:
i dont know tho, it could be viable. i remember the dude @ att saying that the tilt uses a proprietary mini usb connection w/ a different set of pins, it could be that the different pins apply or distribute power/data to different places & thus could render a device in operable? just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just make sure that your car charger has a fuse. If needed, change the fuse to a lower type (one that is just above the recommended for the Tilt, .5a is what I think it draws at). This will protect it from spikes when you start the car.
Scott_F said:
The Tmobile guys at my store strongly discourage using any other brand chargers on HTC phones. It's not the connector they claim is the issue but the amperage. When I first got my tytn2, my wife's motorola usb wall-wart would work, as well as my RIM wall-wart. Now neither of them do. Only the HTC chargers will work on the phone. Someone theorized that the other company chargers might bend a pin or something in the phone rendering them useless.
The amperage idea doesn't fly with me, as the moto and RIM are less amperage than the HTC. I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've used so many different types of USB cables and/or chargers on my Tilt. I have not once had an issue. Just make sure the power ratings are correct and you're good.
Whilst I normally subscribe to the view that the HTC branded part is no better than a decent quality 3rd party part, I have had issues with non-HTC chargers.
I manage the BlackBerries at work, and have tried numerous BB miniUSB chargers (The one with the cord hard wired and the one which is effectively a mains plug to female USB) and neither work with my Kaiser.
I also had issues with car cigarette lighter to USB adapters. As soon as I obtained an official HTC car charger, all the problems went away.
Scott_F said:
...
I'd be more worried about supplying too much current than not enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't supply more current then the device can consume. The number on the charger just shows the highest value of a current the charger can produce without dropping the voltage.
I bought a Cell phone & USB charging kit from BestBuy today and my Tilt got fried when I connected it to this charger after the car had already started. I just noticed the charger output is 5.3V 0.5A whereas the battery pack is only 3.7V ???
hey improtant question. i think that the usb port in the kaiser actually dose get messed up using other chargers. i belive this becouse i used to be able to charge with any charger like some of you but now only htc's charger works. and that sucks but whatever the bad part is the headphones downt work any more. cany any one else that has to use htc's charger confirm that the headphones no longer work?
I've seen issues with various chargers (including one for the Dopod 838pro, Motorolla, and no-name car chargers), where I've seen it not activate the charging mode on the PDA intermittently. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to conclusively rule out that the HTC original chargers will work 100% of the time either, since that particular Tilt unit wasn't mine.
Also for some reason, I've had this accessory fail to connect to the headphones port after using it for a while (with a car charger connected). Fortunately, i had bought a few (for myself and others), and the port on the HTC is still working. So maybe you can try another headphone accessory and see if it's really the port on the HTC that is dead.
From my personal experience, testing, and reading on these forums, it appears that there are three conditions that need to be satisfied for reliable use of the USB port:
First - The Mechanical Fit
Standard mini-USB connecters DO NOT fit the same as the HTC extended USB implementation. To address this, I use the HTC signal splitter (headphone+charger/sync) on almost all standard USB cables for chargeing. It's fully compliant with the HTC in all ways and has added benefits. (see below)
Second - Pinout
The charging circuit in the Tilt (and others) can be finicky with regard to whether or not it works using a standard USB cable. The HTC splitter solves that and allows slow charging from virtually any USB compliant source. I also have the adapter from http://www.pocketpctechs.com/ in my car that even allows you to select the fast charge or slow charge pinout via a switch. (VERY COOL) This works great because I'm usually looking for the fast charge in the car. (Note... fast charge is disabled when transferring data via USB)
Third - Electrical Spec
Voltage is 5V for all USB outputs. Spikes generated in a car are pretty tough to transmit past the step down circuit/ic in the auto USB power adapters. I have never heard of a device being damaged by a spike from the car via one of these adapters. The chip itself would fail to open before frying the USB power client (aka the Phone).
Current draw for these phones is 0.5A for slow charging and around 1A+ for fast charging. This is determined by the pinout of the cable you are using. Slow charge is the default on all data type cables. Some cables sold as "charging cables" enable the fast charge. (The PPC Techs cable has the switch to do this) I recommend using at least 750mA chargers to allow the phone to have enough current to run the gps, bluetooth, etc with the screen brightness turned up and still have a small excess trickle to charge the battery.
I hope this summary helps a bit.
Cheers!
Hey Guys,
So I've been using CM7 since Nightly 13 or so. Around that time I was using both my stock charger and other micro usb cables I had. I would plug the non-stock into a non-stock wall plug usb outlet thing or to the computer and I had no trouble charging the nook. This is great for being at work.
Then, somewhere around nightly 22 or so this stopped working. The icon in the status bar on the nook shows charging, spare parts reports "Charging USB" and "Charging AC" respectively, but the battery level only goes down.
To make matters worse, around nightly 22 I found that after I had used the non-stock charger even the stock stopped working. I was not getting ANY charge. I read somewhere that I could use CWM to clear the battery stats so I did and that appears to correct the problem. I'm able to use the stock again.
So here I am, running CM7 rc4 but I see that I'm still not able to charge from non-stock.
Does anybody know what gives here or can you point me towards more information?
Thanks
yeah, I seem to be having the same problem
My nook was out of juice this morning so I brought a usb cable with me to work
it's been plugged in for over an hour and it still won't even turn on..
mine charges fine with the cabble that came with my evo into my laptop
This sounds important enough to repost in the Developer forum, no?
actually, I think it is charging
it's just charging REALLY slowly
mine's finally booted up now
Well I understand it always has charged much slower without the standard Nook charger, so maybe this is just an isolated case for the OP?
If I don't turn off the screen and use 1100 mhz + performance governor and have live wallpaper running, it won't charge. I think it's because it's using more power than my USB can supply.
If I have it on interactive 300/1100, with the screen off, it will charge overnight.
I don't think its and isolated event, I have the same problem but with the original nook charger its all out of juice its been connected to the wall jack for 1 hour and its not even trying to turn on.
It's a very pretty paperweight telling me that I should try again in 15 minutes for the past hour.
Yours won't charge with the original charger? What kind of light are you getting on the charger cable? Have you tried turning the machine completely off?
chisleu said:
If I don't turn off the screen and use 1100 mhz + performance governor and have live wallpaper running, it won't charge. I think it's because it's using more power than my USB can supply.
If I have it on interactive 300/1100, with the screen off, it will charge overnight.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, after waiting the day it appears this is the case. I have to leave the screen off and it will charge. If I actually use it I think I'm consuming more power than trickles in. That's really lame.
I've had the screen off for the last 5 hours (using it occasionally) and it is now at 50% battery, up from 8%. So I guess it is charging... just REALLY slowly.
What, if anything, can be done about this? Is this a purely hardware issue or is there a software aspect to this. I'm telling you, I didn't have this issue with nightly 13 (or so).
You know, I had been using the "ondemand" governor but have changed over to the "interactive". I wonder if that has anything to do with it. I'm going to switch it back and see if it makes a difference.
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the nook only charges with the nook charger.
When I plug CM7 into the PC the battery percentage will jump to 100% after some (brief) time. Since I know it's too short of a time to fully charge the battery I rebooted the Nook Color and it showed the proper battery percentage.
As an aside, you're not supposed to let lithium ion batteries fully discharge. It's bad for the battery.
No I understand that it does charge via regular USB, just more slowly. The Nook cable is specially designed to add additional pins for higher voltage charging. Or something like that.
I have this plugged into a standard Motorola microUSB wall charger and it works fine for my Nook Color.
The only thing is that it charges at a much lower amperage.
You can verify this with a quick dmesg piped to grep in a terminal:
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With the standard Nook Color Charger, it charges at a rate of 2A.
It works fine at 500 mA; it just takes a lot longer.
Does anyone know if charging this way might cause damage over time to the Nook?
Logically, if it were harmful they wouldn't allow you to use a USB cable to connect to a powered USB port on a PC. (Or they'd disable charging upon such a connection.)
I mean, some people are going to leave the things connected to their PC for long periods.
xdabr said:
Logically, if it were harmful they wouldn't allow you to use a USB cable to connect to a powered USB port on a PC. (Or they'd disable charging upon such a connection.)
I mean, some people are going to leave the things connected to their PC for long periods.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well... for the record, the stock nook complains when you use the non-stock charger. And it doesn't report charging.
It definitely charges using CM7, but it is super slow AND using the nook while charged seems to break even on battery consumption. If I shut the screen off though it definitely puts power into the battery.
You can see all this by using SpareParts. It shows battery info on demand and you'll actually be able to see the voltage in the battery and watch it charge. Percentage be damned I'm looking at voltage
So... I think my original question is answered. Yes, it will charge off USB or non-stock charger using a non-stock cord. It charges slowly and with a low amount of voltage meaning I can't really use the thing if I expect it to charge.
Maybe I just need to man up and buy another stock charger. :/
Paul22000 said:
It works fine at 500 mA; it just takes a lot longer.
Does anyone know if charging this way might cause damage over time to the Nook?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Quite the opposite. For Li-Ion batteries, a slower "trickle" charge is actually recommended over the "quick" version via higher amps.
3rd party chargers aside, are you saying with stock Nook Eclair it doesn't "report" any charging when attached with a standard USB cables to a PC -- and does it in fact NOT charge at all that way? 'Cause that would be a signifier to me that it's not intended and is potentially unsafe.
I thought I had read that it does eventually charge, just as it does in CM7....
Mine will charge with the non-oem chargers, but it takes forever. I try not to let mine completely die because it's such a pain to get it powered on again. I get the notice on screen that says something about "continue charging and try again in 15 minutes" and it takes much longer than that. Last time it died all I had was a non-oem charger at my parents' place and I had to leave it plugged in over night and when I woke up it was back on but STILL not 100%. It's a pain when you're in a hurry, but if you're in a bind and that's all you have but have time to leave it, it will eventually power back on. At least that's my experience with the nook running cm7.
Definitely seems software/driver issue. For me, the Nookie Froyo SD build had great battery time, and would slow-charge from a normal USB cable plugged into laptop. I know this because 1. It would charge, and 2. If it was fast-charging as normal, and pulling too many milliamps from the laptop, it would have informed me the USB port draw was too great, and disabled it. I have a Y USB power splitter for external hard drive - I should test if it changes anything if I use it (I'll assume it won't as it wouldn't have the custom pins).
Now that I'm messing with CM7 (sd) builds, battery drain is horrible, so I often get that "15 minutes" screen and I've had cases where it won't charge from a regular USB cable. Haven't done a lot of testing with these much, as I didn't want to have to leave it plugged in constantly.
Hello i'll try to explain how i fixed the red notification light when my friend's phone died.
The situation was that he charged the phone from the car built in USB and after he unplugged the charger the phone never powered on.
I tried all the solutions that google search can provide and nothing helped.
The problem was that when you plug the charger the red light stays on without any blinks and nothing helped.
Tools you need:
*Torque screw T5 screwdriver
*Small Philips screwdriver (thanks scream4cheese for remind)
*Plastic handle or something else (to open the back cover without damage it)
*Thin wires
*old/new phone charger
So lets start - hope it will help some one that stuck in this situation
1. First of all you need to remove the back cover to get access to the battery.
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2. Unscrew the 2 screws that holds the battery flex cable.
3. Disconnect the flex cable from the phone.
4. Now you need two thin wires that you can connect to the battery flex cable.
5. Find some old phone charger ( i used old nokia charger ) that can provide about 5.0v-5.8v.
6. If you have volt meter find where is the positive and negative (+) and (-).
7. Connect the battery positive (+) to charger positive (+) and negative to negative.
8. Plug the charger to power and wait about 15-13 minutes, do not leave in that charging position too much time because the battery may EXPLODE.
9. Disconnect all the wires and reconnect the battery to the phone (if not working wait few minutes and start over from step 7) maybe the connections is not good or mot enough charged.
10. power on the phone and you have solved that issue.
This is really helpful. It should be a sticky. :thumbup::thumbup:
Also I would like you to add the type of screw drivers is needed to open the phone's cover and the pins.
Torque screw T5 screwdriver
Small Philips screwdriver
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Good to know in case it happens so thanks but I was just wondering whether just disconnecting battery terminals wasn't enough as quite a few mentioned that that's how they fixed it so not sure how this method works.
Anyway thanks
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
It looks to me that there are circumstances where battery drain is such that the battery voltage drops too far too fast for the phone's charging circuits to cope. (Hence it happening mostly to people running battery-sapping benchmarks.)
gie62001 said:
Good to know in case it happens so thanks but I was just wondering whether just disconnecting battery terminals wasn't enough as quite a few mentioned that that's how they fixed it so not sure how this method works.
Anyway thanks
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As i mentioned the battery discharged fully under the 0.2 Volt (after charging the phone with incompatible charger which output is about 3.5V) *in this case the battery is much powerful than charger and it forwarding the power back to charger and not the charger to phone*
so the phone doesn't know that the battery is OK and thinks that it is bad battery, in this case you should use my method or replace to new one if you have an choice to receive it fast or find in local shop.
I'm not guarantee that my method will save your battery you may need to replace it.
According to the service manual, the wireless charger is also separate from the other phone circuitry.
The red light indicated trickle charging, which is slow. And maybe the phone uses more charging than even trickle charging can provide.
A Qi charger should charge the battery normally even if it is empty, as the phone does not need to power up to achieve high charge currrent.
That sounds a lot easier than opening it up and charging the battery manually!
jutezak said:
According to the service manual, the wireless charger is also separate from the other phone circuitry.
The red light indicated trickle charging, which is slow. And maybe the phone uses more charging than even trickle charging can provide.
A Qi charger should charge the battery normally even if it is empty, as the phone does not need to power up to achieve high charge currrent.
That sounds a lot easier than opening it up and charging the battery manually!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In this case the Qi or Original nexus charger not helping, because it connect to the same circuit as usb charger, the mother board controls the battery charging so in this case you cannot charge in any way if the phone thinks that the battery is bad.
Any way in most cases like that you will change to new battery because the old one is totally dead :/
Neat. So you basically used a defibrillator on the battery . Sad to see the battery management being so poor on this device that it lets the battery drop that low.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
Ummmmm. I think people are just being impatient. I had my N4 powered off while overseas for 2 months. When I returned and turned my N4 on, I received the "Red Light of Death".
I read through all of the forums and found the same fixes everywhere.
Open the phone up and reset the battery terminal bar, etc etc...
Now, I have no problem doing that, but I just couldn't accept such a major flaw from this phone, not to mention the problem appeared to be widespread.
Anyways, back to my original point, people are just crazy impatient and freak out over each and every little thing. The first thing they do is rip their phone open and start tinkering.
I ASSURE YOU. JUST LEAVE IT PLUGGED IN USING THE WALL CHARGER FOR AN HOUR OR SO, and it WILL turn back on.
Now, maybe there are situations out there where my method doesn't work, in that case, shame on LG and Google.
Though, I would be willing to bet, if this happens to anyone else, just leave it the hell alone and let it sit on the wall charger for a couple of hours, turning it on and off a few times in between (or at least attempting to), it will come back to life.
It took a month to get my phone...When i got it finally..it had no charge at all..tried to switch it on but all i got was a red flashing led.it scared me a lot but i plugged in the charger and it stayed there for an hour until it turned on..
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
There is a lot of cases for the red button, in my case nothing helped only that solution, I'm not telling people to use my advice when you see red light first of all should try easier way to solve it, like charge with original charger for few hours etc
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda premium
Hi
This is defeating a safety mechanism. When lithium batteries are over discharged they can become permanently damaged and then are not safe to recharge. Recharging could result in gassing and or an explosion and fire, this may not happen right away or at all, however the chances of this happening is significantly increased after a deep discharge or some other fault causing over-heating etc. Why did LG build in this protection mechanism in the first place? Do people just think it was to annoy owners and have returns for no reason? Lithium batteries can be lethal which is why there have been world wide recalls in some cases, and they are only safe now because of safety devices built into the battery and phone.
I wouldn't want a phone exploding in my pocket or against my face or in my hand or setting fire to my home. Lithium batteries are generally pretty safe only because of these safety mechanisms, defeat them and lithium batteries become pretty dangerous.
Read up on safety issues here: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/lithium_ion_safety_concerns especially under the "What every battery user should know" section and please realise you are literally playing with fire by defecting or shorting out the safety mechanism which this direct charging method is likely doing.
Regards
Phil
Very good thank you
Must say this has saved me from the trouble that would be sending my phone to RMA! Thanks a lot!
This worked for my girlfriends Nexus 4 that she allowed to go completely dead. 3 buttons, etc...would not get a response from the unit.
yev.gavrikov said:
Hello i'll try to explain how i fixed the red notification light when my friend's phone died.
The situation was that he charged the phone from the car built in USB and after he unplugged the charger the phone never powered on.
I tried all the solutions that google search can provide and nothing helped.
The problem was that when you plug the charger the red light stays on without any blinks and nothing helped.
Tools you need:
*Torque screw T5 screwdriver
*Small Philips screwdriver (thanks scream4cheese for remind)
*Plastic handle or something else (to open the back cover without damage it)
*Thin wires
*old/new phone charger
So lets start - hope it will help some one that stuck in this situation
1. First of all you need to remove the back cover to get access to the battery.
2. Unscrew the 2 screws that holds the battery flex cable.
3. Disconnect the flex cable from the phone.
4. Now you need two thin wires that you can connect to the battery flex cable.
5. Find some old phone charger ( i used old nokia charger ) that can provide about 5.0v-5.8v.
6. If you have volt meter find where is the positive and negative (+) and (-).
7. Connect the battery positive (+) to charger positive (+) and negative to negative.
8. Plug the charger to power and wait about 15-13 minutes, do not leave in that charging position too much time because the battery may EXPLODE.
9. Disconnect all the wires and reconnect the battery to the phone (if not working wait few minutes and start over from step 7) maybe the connections is not good or mot enough charged.
10. power on the phone and you have solved that issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
works like a charm, just fixed mine by following the steps.
I dropped my phone in the pond and it was totally submerged under water for about 3-4 minutes, can't power up after, dry for couple of days still doesn't work, all I got was a red led light while charging (not flashing).
I thought the phone was beyond repair so just leave it in a bag of rice to see if there's any miracle. Take the phone out after 3 days, connect to the charger and I get a red flashing light, I think it is a good sign, so I did a google search and redirected to this post, connect the battery flex to an old nokia charger for about 14 minutes and it was fixed, how amazing is that.
My sincere thanks to yev.gavrikov!
-----------------------------------------------------------
update:
the phone turns off automatically after 20 minutes, the red flashing light comes back, will try again tmr, too late to go through that again.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
before I connected the wire with the battery flex I took a read with a volt meter the voltage is 0.36, after a 14-minutes charge the voltage increased to 1.30, still way below the 3.8v standard voltage. But the phone is ok to power up with the stock charger and the battery status bar shows 99% after charge for about half hour. I thought it was fixed, though the the charging rate seems little bit too high, from 1.3v to 99% just within half hour !
Will try again tonight, but I figure might be something wrong with the power management module of the main board.
Don2k9 said:
works like a charm, just fixed mine by following the steps.
I dropped my phone in the pond and it was totally submerged under water for about 3-4 minutes, can't power up after, dry for couple of days still doesn't work, all I got was a red led light while charging (not flashing).
I thought the phone was beyond repair so just leave it in a bag of rice to see if there's any miracle. Take the phone out after 3 days, connect to the charger and I get a red flashing light, I think it is a good sign, so I did a google search and redirected to this post, connect the battery flex to an old nokia charger for about 14 minutes and it was fixed, how amazing is that.
My sincere thanks to yev.gavrikov!
-----------------------------------------------------------
update:
the phone turns off automatically after 20 minutes, the red flashing light comes back, will try again tmr, to. o late to go through that again.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
before I connected the wire with the battery flex I took a read with a volt meter the voltage is 0.36, after a 14-minutes charge the voltage increased to 1.30, still way below the 3.8v standard voltage. But the phone is ok to power up with the stock charger and the battery status bar shows 99% after charge for about half hour. I thought it was fixed, though the the charging rate seems little bit too high, from 1.3v to 99% just within half hour !
Will try again tonight, but I figure might be something wrong with the power management module of the main board.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went in the pool with my Nexus 4 in a plastic bag to keep the sand out. Realized it after several minutes that I still had it in my pocket and got it out. Didn't have any rice so I wrapped it in a diaper for a day. Then I got some rice and left it in the rice for about 2 days. I pulled it out and it looked dry enough. Plugged it in and got the battery charging white icons. They went away, I waited a few minutes and tired to turn it on. Nothing. So I waited a while longer and tried it again. The red light started blinking and I couldn't get it to do anything. I tried different cords but no help. When I tried to plug it into another charger base I noticed some condensation in the front camera and in the back flash. So I stopped the whole deal and put it back in rice and laid it up in a window sill. I'm not sure what my next move is. I think the flashing red light might have saved me from turning it on and screwing it up further. I've rooted my previous phones and I feel fairly comfortable with that stuff but I'm a little nervous taking the back off this phone though. I would finally like to try a wireless charger first before I go ripping into the back of this thing. Plus I don't have a volt meter to check the charger. Any suggestions on how I could try a charger without buying one? Or what my next step is?
QI chargrer
Hey there I actually was looking for a soluiton to this, since i HAD the same problem. I didnt wanted to open up my phone, so i decided to charge it back somehow else. With the normal factory charger wasnt really successfull try, so i bought a QI charger, with USB pluggable slot at the end, and plugged to the factory 1.2a converter. After 1-2 hours my phone started to charge, and displayed the charging white battery instead of blinking light!
So im actually really thankfull on all the ideas here, hope my suggestion will help on more ppl.
A little over a week ago I was driving to a client in a very rural area. Had my Nexus 4 running Navigation and playing music over my car's AUX port. Also had my USB plugged into the car's cigarette lighter port to keep it charged.
All of a sudden, the music stopped playing. Looked at the phone and it was off. Pushed the power button to turn it back on and the red LED started blinking. At this point I panicked because it was a 4 hour drive in the middle of nowhere, had no idea where I was going, and now no Nav or phone calls.
Over the next 10 minutes I kept pushing power and holding it for a variable length of time, from just an instant to 30 seconds or more. No dice. Then after what must have been the 20th try or so, the phone booted up. Relief! When it was fully booted, I noticed the battery was around 90%. No problems since then.
FWIW, YMMV.
Nexus 4 Red light of death FIXED
@yev.gavrikov
Thanks a TON Friend :highfive:
Finally My Bros. Nexus4 Worked we just did till Step 3 and again installed it Back
Amazingly phone booted back to basic
The Story:
Device Info Nexus 4
Kernel : Franco nightly R156
ROM: PA 3.6
@Stock Speed Stock CPU Governor
was running AnTuTu Benchmarking the battery was @50% suddenly in between the test phone screen was off, when we checked phone was not booting up :crying:
So i saw this Thread and watch 2-3 videos How to dismantle the Nexus 4
Skills : Moderate (Needs Precision and patience)
I just removed and reinstalled the battery terminal.
And amazingly the phone Started ....WOW Awesome :good: @yev.gavrikov
Thanks
On the Oneplus forum there is a thread where they analysed the dash-charging cable ( https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/...-cable-doing-internally-lets-probe-it.456017/ ).
The topic was finished by somebody posting a teardown of the cable revealing that it's dash-charging capabilities are encoded on a BQ2022 from ti.
The next logical step is to dig into the communication between the phone and the charger.
The same guy that tore down the cable also took a look at the chargers (google translate will be helpfull):
http://www.chongdiantou.com/wp/archives/1228.html Mains
http://www.chongdiantou.com/wp/archives/1339.html Car
Maybe we can continue the investigation here....
So, I did some digging around the Car-Unit with my Logic Analyzer.
Description of setup here: http://imgur.com/a/G7pPN
The charger waits for a current draw (i didn't bother testing it's thresholds) and then reads/checks-for the E²PROM embedded in the plug of the cable (presumably containing an authentication for dash).
At a similar time the phone sends a kind of "preamble" consisting of high-low transitions of varying lengths (but this doesn't seem to important to the charger, it tries to "dash" even without it).
Afterwards the phone and charger start exchanging 9 bits of data in bursts. One USB-Data-Line is clock, the other one is data. The chargers supplies the clock and the first 9 bits and after a short pause the phone gets to reply with another 9 bits as the charger supplies another "clock-burst".
At the beginning (before dash-charging is in effect), the charger sends 150h and the phone replys with 158h.
Once the phone is ready to begin dash-charging it replys with 178h instead.
The charger then configures it's Step-Down Converter for ~4.5V of output voltage and then sends 148h to the phone.
It either replies with 170h if the voltage is too high or 178h if the voltage is correct (I didn't see a reply for "too low", but it might exist).
If the phone replies 170h the charger lowers the voltage by about 100mV-200mV and "asks" again.
Once the phone replies with 178h the charger stops lowering the voltage and sends 14Ch to which the phone replies with 141h.
During the dash-charging process the charger periodically sends 144h to which the phone replies with a number which seems to roughly coincide with the state of charge (i have seen values from 16Eh to 178h).
The charger seems to nudge-up the voltage every once in a while (presumably when the current dropped below a threshold).
If the battery is relatively full (i tested at 90% charge) the "dash-charging-cycle" doesn't even start and the communication stays at an exchange of 150h/158h data "words".
I did some minor probing on the wall-wart with a stripped USB 3.0 extension and found that it uses the same commands but with the lowest bit set (i.e. it adds 1 to the command codes). Unfortunately the USB 3.0 cable had some internal resistance ruining most of the analog measurements.
todo:
- I didn't manage to capture is the transition from dash charging back to "normal" 5V mode at the end of the charge cycle.
- The values communicated at the transition from the voltage-setting process to the dash charging operation are unclear to me (but they appear to be always the same).
Do you think it's safe to use OnePlus 3 brick or car Dash charger with let's say micro USB cable and charge other phones? Or OnePlus power bank?
nitramcek said:
Do you think it's safe to use OnePlus 3 brick or car Dash charger with let's say micro USB cable and charge other phones? Or OnePlus power bank?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it's safe as with other phone or cable it will act as a normal charger blocking at 1.5A.
Dash charge will only activate if, the dash cable is used with a dash charging phone or oppo vooc phone.
Le_Zouave said:
it's safe as with other phone or cable it will act as a normal charger blocking at 1.5A.
Dash charge will only activate if, the dash cable is used with a dash charging phone or oppo vooc phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great, so It's safe to use my car Dash charger for charging other phones to.
atheist93 said:
So, I did some digging around the Car-Unit with my Logic Analyzer.
Description of setup here: http://imgur.com/a/G7pPN
The charger waits for a current draw (i didn't bother testing it's thresholds) and then reads/checks-for the E²PROM embedded in the plug of the cable (presumably containing an authentication for dash).
At a similar time the phone sends a kind of "preamble" consisting of high-low transitions of varying lengths (but this doesn't seem to important to the charger, it tries to "dash" even without it).
Afterwards the phone and charger start exchanging 9 bits of data in bursts. One USB-Data-Line is clock, the other one is data. The chargers supplies the clock and the first 9 bits and after a short pause the phone gets to reply with another 9 bits as the charger supplies another "clock-burst".
At the beginning (before dash-charging is in effect), the charger sends 150h and the phone replys with 158h.
Once the phone is ready to begin dash-charging it replys with 178h instead.
The charger then configures it's Step-Down Converter for ~4.5V of output voltage and then sends 148h to the phone.
It either replies with 170h if the voltage is too high or 178h if the voltage is correct (I didn't see a reply for "too low", but it might exist).
If the phone replies 170h the charger lowers the voltage by about 100mV-200mV and "asks" again.
Once the phone replies with 178h the charger stops lowering the voltage and sends 14Ch to which the phone replies with 141h.
During the dash-charging process the charger periodically sends 144h to which the phone replies with a number which seems to roughly coincide with the state of charge (i have seen values from 16Eh to 178h).
The charger seems to nudge-up the voltage every once in a while (presumably when the current dropped below a threshold).
If the battery is relatively full (i tested at 90% charge) the "dash-charging-cycle" doesn't even start and the communication stays at an exchange of 150h/158h data "words".
I did some minor probing on the wall-wart with a stripped USB 3.0 extension and found that it uses the same commands but with the lowest bit set (i.e. it adds 1 to the command codes). Unfortunately the USB 3.0 cable had some internal resistance ruining most of the analog measurements.
todo:
- I didn't manage to capture is the transition from dash charging back to "normal" 5V mode at the end of the charge cycle.
- The values communicated at the transition from the voltage-setting process to the dash charging operation are unclear to me (but they appear to be always the same).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really interesting analysis. What's your goal? Enabling dash charging without dash accessories?
(USB-C for example)
My primary motivation is curiosity.
If the protocol turns out to be sufficiently simple to replicate (which is looking good at the moment) I might try and build a dash powerbank to quickly top of my battery. I wouldn't want 3+ Amps going through a flimsy micro-to-c adapter from a vooc bank...
atheist93 said:
My primary motivation is curiosity.
If the protocol turns out to be sufficiently simple to replicate (which is looking good at the moment) I might try and build a dash powerbank to quickly top of my battery. I wouldn't want 3+ Amps going through a flimsy micro-to-c adapter from a vooc bank...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm, so you're trying to replicate it on the hardware side, that's a cool application and it'd be great to have other options for power banks and car chargers.
i honestly don't know much about the topic, but do you think i'd be possible to replicate it on the software side? ie, mimic the protocol to enable faster charging when plugged into a USB-C fast charging output? (but also limit it to 3A since that's a safe max similar to the Nexus 5X/6P)
I am pretty sure that it is not possible to do it in software only.
The whole point of Dash is to let the charger do the regulating and make the phone just "pass-through" the raw connection to the battery.
You might be able to trick the phone into switching it's "pass-through" feature on without getting the right initialization, but this would frankly be stupid as the result would be 5V from the USB-Port pushing directly into the lithium cell which is supposed to stay below 4,2V. Initially the internal resistance of the USB-Cable might limit the current sufficiently to prevent an immediate catastrophic failure, but I can't imagine it working out well in the long run...
The only possible solution i see for this to work is to have a device that plugs into your existing USB and steps down the voltage appropriately, but that is hardware again.
atheist93 said:
I am pretty sure that it is not possible to do it in software only.
The whole point of Dash is to let the charger do the regulating and make the phone just "pass-through" the raw connection to the battery.
You might be able to trick the phone into switching it's "pass-through" feature on without getting the right initialization, but this would frankly be stupid as the result would be 5V from the USB-Port pushing directly into the lithium cell which is supposed to stay below 4,2V. Initially the internal resistance of the USB-Cable might limit the current sufficiently to prevent an immediate catastrophic failure, but I can't imagine it working out well in the long run...
The only possible solution i see for this to work is to have a device that plugs into your existing USB and steps down the voltage appropriately, but that is hardware again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a physical device which enables dash charging, particularly up to 3A via USB-C and 2.4A via USB-A to USB-C, would be of great use too
atheist93 said:
My primary motivation is curiosity.
If the protocol turns out to be sufficiently simple to replicate (which is looking good at the moment) I might try and build a dash powerbank to quickly top of my battery. I wouldn't want 3+ Amps going through a flimsy micro-to-c adapter from a vooc bank...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought the Dash car charger to be used as a car charger as well as backup power for camping etc. The dash charger seems to work with a wide range of input voltage. I would guess 8V-28V works fine.
I tested the dash car charger with eight AA Eneloop batteries but it didn't work well. The input voltage dropped from 11V to 6,6V. I think the stress was too much for eight batteries and dash charging didn't work. Ampere (app) displayed a reading of 1120mA for charging current.
Ten AA Eneloops were enough to dash charge the phone twice from 40% -> 90%. I also tested the dash car charger with a 19V PSU and it workerd fine as well.
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The next step is to buy lifepo 4 / lipo battery and build a case.
Thanks for the work done.
The problems with the enelope is the wiring... I guess there will be a massive voltage drop over the holder/wires and clips.
These things are not made for higher currents. I have seen experiments failing because of battery holders and crocodile clips very often. The problem is that these cables often have massive resistance which is no problem as long there is no current flowing... Greetings from Ohms law
Squabl said:
I bought the Dash car charger to be used as a car charger as well as backup power for camping etc. The dash charger seems to work with a wide range of input voltage. I would guess 8V-28V works fine.
I tested the dash car charger with eight AA Eneloop batteries but it didn't work well. The input voltage dropped from 11V to 6,6V. I think the stress was too much for eight batteries and dash charging didn't work. Ampere (app) displayed a reading of 1120mA for charging current.
Ten AA Eneloops were enough to dash charge the phone twice from 40% -> 90%. I also tested the dash car charger with a 19V PSU and it workerd fine as well.
The next step is to buy lifepo 4 / lipo battery and build a case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did your project go? And why Lipo batteries? Why not 18650 batts?
MonoTovarisj said:
How did your project go? And why Lipo batteries? Why not 18650 batts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can get custom Li-Po batteries to fit any size and are generally square. 18650s are cylindrical and there would be wasted space between the batteries so with a Li-Po you would be able to get higher capacity. Just a wild guess
MonoTovarisj said:
How did your project go? And why Lipo batteries? Why not 18650 batts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ended up using battery from my 18V cordless drill. The battery is quite small and light weight for it capacity. It was the easiest and cheapest option as I need battery backup very seldom.
I did a case for 4 x 18650 and the car charger, but got a little stuck in the project. Mostly because I don't have any electronic skills.
This looks cool.
What questions do you have? I can help out with the electronics. But it seems to be quite straight forward. But to be safe use protected 18650 cells. I can recommend the Panasonic NCR18650b, they are the best ones currently available. See: https://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_187046.html. You might need to adjust your design the protection makes them a bit longer than standart 18650 cells.
The design is already for the panasonic protected 18650 cells. However I would have liked a pcb in the buttom with full charging circuit and a usb-c for charging. With my current design I have to take the cells out for charging. :-/
MonoTovarisj said:
The design is already for the panasonic protected 18650 cells. However I would have liked a pcb in the buttom with full charging circuit and a usb-c for charging. With my current design I have to take the cells out for charging. :-/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You want to connect the 4 cells in series right?
I haven't found any good 4s charging modules yet.
Building you own charger circuit based on an charger IC is hardcore electronics. I have tried and i took months.
So charging the externally should be fine really.
affmalg said:
You want to connect the 4 cells in series right?
I haven't found any good 4s charging modules yet.
Building your own charger circuit based on a charger IC is hardcore electronics. I have tried and I took months.
So charging the externally should be fine really.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah series, as I need the voltage for the car charger, and 3.7 times 4 gives a nice 14,8V for the charger.
Regarding charging that was my conclusion as well, however if I wanted to commercialise it, I would need a built-in charging circuit.
I would be able to get wires to the top poles as well if that would help the design, then you would be able to charge them individually and switch to a serial connection when in use.
Hi.
My galaxy tab s2 charging very slowly. It takes about 3 days to full charge.
I allready try 15 or more chargers and cabels (including original).
I format and delete cache files
I downgrade to android 6.0.1
I replace the charging port
The only thing i don't do is to replace the battery, but the battery (when finally get charged) drain like normal.
Please help i really dont have anymore ideas.
Thank you!
I have this also. Had slow charging for months. The first time samsung fixed it and sent me a new charger. The second time i was out of warranty so i replaced the charging port myself, tried many different chargers and cables and can't figure it out. It charges really really slow.
leyvatron said:
I have this also. Had slow charging for months. The first time samsung fixed it and sent me a new charger. The second time i was out of warranty so i replaced the charging port myself, tried many different chargers and cables and can't figure it out. It charges really really slow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I charge with my Moto fast charger and it seems to charge it faster than the Samsung one.
jahciple said:
I charge with my Moto fast charger and it seems to charge it faster than the Samsung one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you have slow charging issue, the tablet gives you a warning to use the original charger to charge it fast. If you don't get the notification of slow charging, then your tablet doesn't have any charging issues.
update: i replaced the charging port and the battery. but still no luck. the percentages keep dropping when my fast charger is connected
i'm out of ideas so if someone have some thoughts i'm listening.
Itamar1239 said:
update: i replaced the charging port and the battery. but still no luck. the percentages keep dropping when my fast charger is connected
i'm out of ideas so if someone have some thoughts i'm listening.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wanted to call Samsung and asked them what they fixed when I sent it to them when it was on warranty.
leyvatron said:
I wanted to call Samsung and asked them what they fixed when I sent it to them when it was on warranty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
now the battery stops charging at 22% (it takes 1 day to charge to 22% lol)
if you call samsung please let me know what they said.
thank you.
Itamar1239 said:
now the battery stops charging at 22% (it takes 1 day to charge to 22% lol)
if you call samsung please let me know what they said.
thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?
leyvatron said:
did you disconnect and reconnect the battery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did.
And like i said i even replace the battery
But still no luck.
I suspect that some chip on the motherboard is not working right, but that just guessing.
Any more ideas are more than welcome
Itamar1239 said:
I did.
And like i said i even replace the battery
But still no luck.
I suspect that some chip on the motherboard is not working right, but that just guessing.
Any more ideas are more than welcome
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also out of ideas myself
As I wrote on samsungboard recently;
"I have tried multiple cables*(that work fine with all other phones - Samsung S7/Galaxy tab S2 9.7/Sony etc)
I have tried multiple chargers (Samsung quick charge as well as Samsung standard and Anker 6 port charger)
Tried changing the USB mode (*#0808#)
I have tried resetting device (long press vol up/down/power)
When connecting device to PC to use Odin to downgrade it is not even seen by Windows 10 (again it only charges albeit slowly - this to me is an indication that D+/D- are not handled correctly by the PMIC sw which in my mind is the root cause of this whole issue).
"
https:// us. community.samsung.com/t5/forums/v3_1/forumtopicpage/board-id/tablets/thread-id/1961/page/5
I also see in devops bugreport-xxxx.txt cable type is 4 and wire_status 4;
<6>[16050.764777] [c1] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_set_property: current_cable(4), wc_status(0), wire_status(4)
<6>[16050.764884] [c0] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_cable_work: Start
<6>[16050.764904] [c0] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_cable_work: Cable is NOT Changed(4)
<6>[16050.767168] [c1] sii8240: detection restarted
<6>[16050.767187] [c1] of_sii8240_hw_reset()
<6>[16050.769768] [c1] sec_chg_get_property: slow-charging mode
Whereas in kernel/kmsg logs cable type is 1;
<6>[ 4.613200] [c6] sec_chg_get_property: Charger Cable type : 1
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luckeb said:
As I wrote on samsungboard recently;
"I have tried multiple cables*(that work fine with all other phones - Samsung S7/Galaxy tab S2 9.7/Sony etc)
I have tried multiple chargers (Samsung quick charge as well as Samsung standard and Anker 6 port charger)
Tried changing the USB mode (*#0808#)
I have tried resetting device (long press vol up/down/power)
When connecting device to PC to use Odin to downgrade it is not even seen by Windows 10 (again it only charges albeit slowly - this to me is an indication that D+/D- are not handled correctly by the PMIC sw which in my mind is the root cause of this whole issue).
"
https:// us. community.samsung.com/t5/forums/v3_1/forumtopicpage/board-id/tablets/thread-id/1961/page/5
I also see in devops bugreport-xxxx.txt cable type is 4 and wire_status 4;
<6>[16050.764777] [c1] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_set_property: current_cable(4), wc_status(0), wire_status(4)
<6>[16050.764884] [c0] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_cable_work: Start
<6>[16050.764904] [c0] sec-battery battery.27: sec_bat_cable_work: Cable is NOT Changed(4)
<6>[16050.767168] [c1] sii8240: detection restarted
<6>[16050.767187] [c1] of_sii8240_hw_reset()
<6>[16050.769768] [c1] sec_chg_get_property: slow-charging mode
Whereas in kernel/kmsg logs cable type is 1;
<6>[ 4.613200] [c6] sec_chg_get_property: Charger Cable type : 1
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank for the info.
Like I said, I sent in my tablet to Samsung when it was under warranty with the original white samsung charger and they sent the tablet back with a slower charging black samsung charger. I have exchange the usb port, tried different cables and plugs, tried resetting, etc... and nothing has worked.
Keep us updated on what happens. :good:
leyvatron said:
thank for the info.
Like I said, I sent in my tablet to Samsung when it was under warranty with the original white samsung charger and they sent the tablet back with a slower charging black samsung charger. I have exchange the usb port, tried different cables and plugs, tried resetting, etc... and nothing has worked.
Keep us updated on what happens. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, Charging cable from Cambridge Soundworks Oontz angle 2 has worked for me.
hi Guys!!!!!!!! i too had the same problem stated above and i got the reason of it in youtube and here is the link of the video:
and this video tells that we need to replace the IC of the device where this problem is very common in most of samsung galaxy tab s2's
vjackaadhitya said:
hi Guys!!!!!!!! i too had the same problem stated above and i got the reason of it in youtube and here is the link of the video:
and this video tells that we need to replace the QC of the device where this problem is very common in most of samsung galaxy tab s2's
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's not something most people can do... successfully. These are the hardest type of ICs to replace. A precision temp controlled hot air station with the skillset to use it is required. Full ESD protocols need to followed. You can easily destroy the multilayered PCB if you don't do it right... you get one shot at it.
I have T715Y, and it's really slow to charge. The current monitor show that it only pull 0.45A. The charger itself capable of supplying more than 2A on other device.
On the tablet, I try to monitor the current internally, and it said it connect to usb powered, not ac powered, and I already tried swapping other chargers. Maybe that's why it's only pulling half amps. Tried cleaning the charging port with some isoprophil alcohol and pinset, nothing change. Maybe I need to swap the charging port, but searching it in 2021 was hard.
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@xdanubi it shouldn't use AC as batteries are only being charged by DC.
xdanubi said:
I have T715Y, and it's really slow to charge. The current monitor show that it only pull 0.45A. The charger itself capable of supplying more than 2A on other device.
On the tablet, I try to monitor the current internally, and it said it connect to usb powered, not ac powered, and I already tried swapping other chargers. Maybe that's why it's only pulling half amps. Tried cleaning the charging port with some isoprophil alcohol and pinset, nothing change. Maybe I need to swap the charging port, but searching it in 2021 was hard.
View attachment 5389291
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the device is in use it will likely skew the charging curve and not draw as much as with the screen off. If you turn the display on and read within a second or less while charging you can probably see what it's actually drawing screen off.
Or simply count how many seconds it takes to charge 1% or minutes to charge to 10%, etc.
If the battery capacity has dropped more than 80% of it's original capacity it's time to replace it before it fails.
Any battery swelling is a failure, replace asap.
Erratic charging can indicate a failure as well.
A sudden drop in capacity indicates a failure.
It could simply be a failed battery.
A battery will last roughly 1-3 years depending how it's used/conditions ie temperature and time it's at near 100%.
My S2 started exhibiting this problem too. Basically it won't pull more than 450 ma from the charger. I discovered that with a custom charge cable that shorts the usb lines together, I was able to get it to draw about 1.5 amps @ 5v. You can get a little more if you supply it with a little more volts (5.5 for instance).
Currently i am using a bench power suppy connected to a micro usb tail that has the dp dm lines tied together.
I have some usb c female breakouts coming from amazon today that I will solder on to my custom micro usb tail which will hopefully allow me to charge it from my 6 port vogek charger.
I agree that it most likely had an IC go bad but replacing that is a MAJOR under taking. 1.5 amps is enough that it will still get about 1 amp charge while your actively using it so theoretically it should go from 0 to 100% in 5.8 hours. Less if you power it down. Good enough!
trnexus01234 said:
My S2 started exhibiting this problem too. Basically it won't pull more than 450 ma from the charger. I discovered that with a custom charge cable that shorts the usb lines together, I was able to get it to draw about 1.5 amps @ 5v. You can get a little more if you supply it with a little more volts (5.5 for instance).
Currently i am using a bench power suppy connected to a micro usb tail that has the dp dm lines tied together.
I have some usb c female breakouts coming from amazon today that I will solder on to my custom micro usb tail which will hopefully allow me to charge it from my 6 port vogek charger.
I agree that it most likely had an IC go bad but replacing that is a MAJOR under taking. 1.5 amps is enough that it will still get about 1 amp charge while your actively using it so theoretically it should go from 0 to 100% in 5.8 hours. Less if you power it down. Good enough!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your experience so far? Does your custom cable work? If yes can you please be more specific how to construct it? There are many users with the same problem!