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Hello Everyone,
I'm looking for either a confirmation that my my WLAN is bad, or suggestions on other things I should try before taking it back in for replacement.
Searching and browsing through the forums I didn't see anyone mention any of the problems I'm having so I'm assuming I'm the only one (or one of very few) that bought a Kaiser with a defective Wifi radio.
Here's the symptoms:
I tried connecting to my wireless connection at home maybe a day or two after I bought my Tilt (last Friday). My home connection is draft 802.11n with WPA2-PSK security.
So I enable the WLAN and it detects my Wifi network and it asks for the key. I input it and then it tries to connect, but... it never does. I tried it a few times consecutively and it still didn't work (I get the animating arrows and the 'halo' around the beacon, but then it goes away, and it just keeps doing that). Now, I've seen this before with on my XV6700 with a beta ROM of WM6, but I know well HTC and AT&T wouldn't release something with broken WPA/2 support. At least HTC, I thought...
So I unlocked my Tilt and loaded the factory Kaiser ROM I downloaded from here, and well, WPA2 didn't work on it either. Weird, I thought, so I searched forums and no one mentioned any of this. So I changed my security settings on my network to WPA-PSK (from WPA2) and that made no difference at all... I don't want to bore y'all with everything else I tried, but to sum it up, I then tried a WPA fix I found on PPCGeeks, but that just ended up making my WLAN staying disabled, so I unintalled that and I decided I would try it with a WEP or Open wireless network.
Well, this morning I did just that and even when I try to connect to a wireless connection with WEP, I get the same behavior when I tried this at home with WPA. I've triple checked the WEP key, and I know it's right.
I haven't tried it on an Open network yet, but I'm assuming I'm going to get the same results. I'll have to find a wireless router no one's connected to so that I can try this out, but it might take me a while. Should I even waste anymore time on this? Anyone else here having (or had) the same problem?
I might start loading the AT&T ROM on this soon so I can take it back, but if any of you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.
Wow. Am I the only one on here who's having this problem?? Lucky me, I guess... :S
Anyway, I just tried connecting to a public and open wifi network here in SF, but my Kaiser still wouldn't connect. Guess that confirms it: my WiFi adapter is defective.
Anyone know if I can get it replaced in a different store from where I purchased it, and what I need to take (hope it's just the phone)?
d0ubl3_d1zzl3 said:
Wow. Am I the only one on here who's having this problem?? Lucky me, I guess... :S
Anyway, I just tried connecting to a public and open wifi network here in SF, but my Kaiser still wouldn't connect. Guess that confirms it: my WiFi adapter is defective.
Anyone know if I can get it replaced in a different store from where I purchased it, and what I need to take (hope it's just the phone)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just tried my wifi on the tilt ... works fine out of the box (to my home secured wireless network)
d0ubl3_d1zzl3 said:
Hello Everyone,
I'm looking for either a confirmation that my my WLAN is bad, or suggestions on other things I should try before taking it back in for replacement.
Searching and browsing through the forums I didn't see anyone mention any of the problems I'm having so I'm assuming I'm the only one (or one of very few) that bought a Kaiser with a defective Wifi radio.
Here's the symptoms:
I tried connecting to my wireless connection at home maybe a day or two after I bought my Tilt (last Friday). My home connection is draft 802.11n with WPA2-PSK security.
So I enable the WLAN and it detects my Wifi network and it asks for the key. I input it and then it tries to connect, but... it never does. I tried it a few times consecutively and it still didn't work (I get the animating arrows and the 'halo' around the beacon, but then it goes away, and it just keeps doing that). Now, I've seen this before with on my XV6700 with a beta ROM of WM6, but I know well HTC and AT&T wouldn't release something with broken WPA/2 support. At least HTC, I thought...
So I unlocked my Tilt and loaded the factory Kaiser ROM I downloaded from here, and well, WPA2 didn't work on it either. Weird, I thought, so I searched forums and no one mentioned any of this. So I changed my security settings on my network to WPA-PSK (from WPA2) and that made no difference at all... I don't want to bore y'all with everything else I tried, but to sum it up, I then tried a WPA fix I found on PPCGeeks, but that just ended up making my WLAN staying disabled, so I unintalled that and I decided I would try it with a WEP or Open wireless network.
Well, this morning I did just that and even when I try to connect to a wireless connection with WEP, I get the same behavior when I tried this at home with WPA. I've triple checked the WEP key, and I know it's right.
I haven't tried it on an Open network yet, but I'm assuming I'm going to get the same results. I'll have to find a wireless router no one's connected to so that I can try this out, but it might take me a while. Should I even waste anymore time on this? Anyone else here having (or had) the same problem?
I might start loading the AT&T ROM on this soon so I can take it back, but if any of you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what I did. Start->settings->connections tab->WiFI. Now you should see your routers name there with the signal bar next to it. Tap AND Hold the name, then go to settings or edit(I forget), then click NEXT, uncheck the box that says "the key is automatically provided"(thats for open access routers/networks that dont require codes). Then type in your code & make sure you specify what key # it is. click next and youre done. You should be able to connect.
silly question here. is your router broadcasting 802.11b or g? the wifi won't connect to anything else.
You might also check your AP to see if it's not broadcasting its SSID to the world (a common security setting). I couldn't connect until I enabled broadcast on my AP, set the network up, and then went back and disabled SSID broadcast.
Why in the hell this is a problem in the first place is beyond me, but this is the third smartphone/PDA with wireless that I've had to do that for. And every time, once the device found the network once, it never had a problem finding it again.
Believe me. I tried everything in the WiFi settings page. I edited the settings, removed them and added them again, and like I said before I even went and changed my security settings on my router (which to answer your question, zeta, it broadcasts in: n, g, and b. Same router worked with my Apache/XV6700).
Anyway, I stopped by the store where I bought it today and they told me that as far as he can tell, that does qualify for a replacement. The problem is they don't have any in stock to replace it with, and he has no idea when they'll be getting more in. They only received 2 on launch day, and I bought one of those. He did mention that I can get it replaced at any store, however, but they all might be in the same boat.
Guess I'll try another store tomorrow, but if not I guess I'll have to go through AT&T's tech support (don't like the sound of that) and get it replaced through them. So I guess this means I might have a few days to mess around with the phone and even try some risky thangs.
So if any of you developers and hackers, er, I mean tweakers need some1 to test something, I can be that guinea pig (for a while at least)... Just give me a shout.
To troubleshoot your wireless connection always try ruling out as many other factors as possible. So put your router to NO security (temporarily ofcourse) and have it broadcast 802.11g. Also make sure you add the mac address of your device to the list in your router, if it uses mac address filtering. Try connecting to it with a laptop and see if that goes fine. Work systematically...
PerfAlbion said:
You might also check your AP to see if it's not broadcasting its SSID to the world (a common security setting). I couldn't connect until I enabled broadcast on my AP, set the network up, and then went back and disabled SSID broadcast.
Why in the hell this is a problem in the first place is beyond me, but this is the third smartphone/PDA with wireless that I've had to do that for. And every time, once the device found the network once, it never had a problem finding it again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a similar Problem, your solution works partly for me:
As soon as I enable the AP to broadcast it's ID, Kaiser connects.
But as soon as the ID is hidden, it does not connect.
Weird.
Is it a security problem if the ID is broadcasted, provided I use WPA2-PSK/AES?
Thanks
V
No. Hiding the SSID really only protects you from folks that are wandering around without any tools. Open up a more fully featured scanner, and it'll pull the SSID out of the air. The encryption is much, much more important.
And I also wouldn't bother with MAC filtering. Changing the MAC address is usually a software setting, so it's not all that much additional security. WPA/WPA2 are much better solutions.
Yeah, the hidden SSID is not an issue with me, since I don't mind broadcasting it at home. Not too paranoid about it. If someone *really* wanted to sniff and break into my network, they could. Don't do much important and highly confidential stuff at home anyway.
Plus, like Perf mentioned, there's software out there, even for PocketPCs, that will find so-called "hidden" SSIDs. Thanks for your suggestions, anyway.
d0ubl3_d1zzl3 said:
Yeah, the hidden SSID is not an issue with me, since I don't mind broadcasting it at home. Not too paranoid about it. If someone *really* wanted to sniff and break into my network, they could. Don't do much important and highly confidential stuff at home anyway.
Plus, like Perf mentioned, there's software out there, even for PocketPCs, that will find so-called "hidden" SSIDs. Thanks for your suggestions, anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i had no issue connecting to my wrt54g running DD-WRT v23 SP2 with my SSID hidden with WEP enabled. when setting up a new connection, i just entered the name of the connection and then the WEP hex, and it connected flawlessly. Have fun hacking your phone until you can swap?
Mine is not working either. I exchanged the phone and found out that I was the 3rd person with the same problem.
BiPolarXpress said:
Mine is not working either. I exchanged the phone and found out that I was the 3rd person with the same problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear, I'm not the only one.
I exchanged my phone this morning, and I just tried connecting to my wireless network and guess what??
I'm getting the SAME RESULTS.
Now, before anyone goes and tells me that my router is the problem or that it's user error, then tell me: why does my laptop, PS3 and my Wii connect just fine?? I even changed the SSID and WPA key last night and they all connected w/o a problem as well. All except my freaking Tilt.
Can be it a coincidence that I got 2 bad phones? I don't know if I should call the store and tell them to hold up on sending the other phone to HTC.
Which reminds me, I probably should try calling HTC today, but I doubt they'll be much help...
I don't think you're nuts, and I doubt you got two bad phones. But if you want to double-check, take the phone to your local Starbucks or other shop with WiFi and see if it can detect that AP.
But at this point, I'd be inclined to look for a firmware upgrade for your AP. I could be that it's not supporting long or short preambles right (a problem for some devices in the past), doesn't like seeing more than XXX different devices, or just doesn't like your phone much.
Either way, I'm smelling an issue with your AP. I had a US Robotics AP/Router that drove me nuts because it would spontaneously reboot after a random period any time an IPSec VPN was present.
try setting the power mode on best performance. when i do that i stay connected to wifi.
I took both my old I730 and my tilt to the coffee shop before I returned my first tilt. I was able to connect my I730 at the coffee shop and home, but couldn't connect the tilt at either place. I also tried some open AP's in my neighborhood that I have been able to connect to in the past with the same results. Picky phone or bad wifi radios maybe.
Jesus... like the bloke said:
1) Turn off wpa and see if it will connect (it will unless you have set your N router to only use "n") If it won't then send it back.
2) If it does... then turn on WEP 128bit on your router... and use that instead.
WM devices have always had problems with WPA...
Hi all.
I have tried my HTC TyTN II with one Wifi LinkSys WAG54GS Router using WPA and not hidding the SSID and works fine, no problem at all.
Test with one AP from DLink at the office, using hidden SSID and WEP 64 and 128 Bits and no problem at all, works as fine as my LinkSys.
I'm going to try hidde the SSID at home with WPA and WPA2 and post the results later to know if there is a common issue with Kaiser or some freaky coincidence.
Regards.
d0ubl3_d1zzl3 said:
Hello Everyone,
I'm looking for either a confirmation that my my WLAN is bad, or suggestions on other things I should try before taking it back in for replacement.
Searching and browsing through the forums I didn't see anyone mention any of the problems I'm having so I'm assuming I'm the only one (or one of very few) that bought a Kaiser with a defective Wifi radio.
Here's the symptoms:
I tried connecting to my wireless connection at home maybe a day or two after I bought my Tilt (last Friday). My home connection is draft 802.11n with WPA2-PSK security.
So I enable the WLAN and it detects my Wifi network and it asks for the key. I input it and then it tries to connect, but... it never does. I tried it a few times consecutively and it still didn't work (I get the animating arrows and the 'halo' around the beacon, but then it goes away, and it just keeps doing that). Now, I've seen this before with on my XV6700 with a beta ROM of WM6, but I know well HTC and AT&T wouldn't release something with broken WPA/2 support. At least HTC, I thought...
So I unlocked my Tilt and loaded the factory Kaiser ROM I downloaded from here, and well, WPA2 didn't work on it either. Weird, I thought, so I searched forums and no one mentioned any of this. So I changed my security settings on my network to WPA-PSK (from WPA2) and that made no difference at all... I don't want to bore y'all with everything else I tried, but to sum it up, I then tried a WPA fix I found on PPCGeeks, but that just ended up making my WLAN staying disabled, so I unintalled that and I decided I would try it with a WEP or Open wireless network.
Well, this morning I did just that and even when I try to connect to a wireless connection with WEP, I get the same behavior when I tried this at home with WPA. I've triple checked the WEP key, and I know it's right.
I haven't tried it on an Open network yet, but I'm assuming I'm going to get the same results. I'll have to find a wireless router no one's connected to so that I can try this out, but it might take me a while. Should I even waste anymore time on this? Anyone else here having (or had) the same problem?
I might start loading the AT&T ROM on this soon so I can take it back, but if any of you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found that I couldn't get my Kaiser to connect to my WPA encrypted LAN - open access and WEP (64 and 128 bit) work fine.
Not sure what the problem is - maybe some incompatibility between the Kaiser and my Netgear router. I've downgraded the security to 128bit WEP for the time being but I'm hoping that there's a fix soon.
I just got an Sony Xperia T,
now I was trying to connect is to my router with the 5ghz-band, but the Xperia T can't find the network,
so then manually added the network, inserterd password, but then it says that the network isn't within reach,
but i'm sitting next to the router, the 2.4ghz-band works fine, and sony confirms that the phone should work with
the 5ghz-band in the white paper of the phone. Does anyone know how to solve this problem?
BTW, my router is a Netgear WNDR3700 Dual Band.
Dutchmann said:
I just got an Sony Xperia T,
now I was trying to connect is to my router with the 5ghz-band, but the Xperia T can't find the network,
so then manually added the network, inserterd password, but then it says that the network isn't within reach,
but i'm sitting next to the router, the 2.4ghz-band works fine, and sony confirms that the phone should work with
the 5ghz-band in the white paper of the phone. Does anyone know how to solve this problem?
BTW, my router is a Netgear WNDR3700 Dual Band.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On your router have you set it to dual band as a lot of the time they have it defaulted to 2.4 b/g so you'd need to change it to auto or whatever option allows all. On my Linksys it says 2.4 and 5 as an option in the dropdown. That would be the only reason I can think of. Have you tried with any other device to connect to your 5ghz network?
Likely a router compatibility issue. I can connect to a Linksys e4200 on 5ghz with no problems
Sent from my Xperia T
My Xperia T refuses to connect to my WiFi AP. It's only 2.4GHz, but according to the logs on the AP, it isn't even trying. On the phone side I very briefly see "Connecting" or similar on the AP list, then it reverts to Saved.
Log on phone is filled with entries like this:
Code:
I/wpa_supplicant( 565): wlan0: Trying to associate with 00:0c:42:XX:XX:XX (SSID='LFWnet' freq=2412 MHz)
I/wpa_supplicant( 565): wlan0: CTRL-EVENT-ASSOC-REJECT bssid=00:0c:42:XX:XX:XX status_code=1
MAC's partially XX'd
This happened on the stock Vodafone ROM, and still occurs on the Generic UK posted in General. I have tried WPA and WPA2, TKIP and AES, different channels, disabling N etc etc, still the same
Tried soft/hard reboots, wipes etc, nothing. It has connected to other public and protected AP's fine.
Am gutted as changing my AP to work around this problem is a no-go. Not had any problems with various other laptops and phones, including other SE/Xperia devices.
LadFromWales85 said:
This happened on the stock Vodafone ROM, and still occurs on the Generic UK posted in General. I have tried WPA and WPA2, TKIP and AES, different channels, disabling N etc etc, still the same
Tried soft/hard reboots, wipes etc, nothing. It has connected to other public and protected AP's fine.
Am gutted as changing my AP to work around this problem is a no-go. Not had any problems with various other laptops and phones, including other SE/Xperia devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm on generic UK rom and using a BT Home Hub without any problems. I've also got my old dLink wireless n router I use as a print server and it works fine with that too. My brother has a Sky router (Netgear I think) and that works fine.
I think you must be unlucky.
---------- Post added at 07:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:07 AM ----------
Is your SSID published? Have you tried turning off all security on the router to see if you can connect then? (obviously I'm not suggesting you leave it unsecured but it is something to try.)
Also, posting your router details may give you an idea if others have been successful with that router before you splash any cash on a new one.
Hi, my Xperia T also is not able to connect with my e4200 5 GHz WiFi. My Laptop and a Samsung Phone works without any problems... I read (sorry I don´t remember the forum link) Sony did not enable the 5 GHz frequency because of driver issues. But if it works on some phones, maybe it´s a provider specific issue like the permanent bootloader lock?
Might be worth updating the firmware of your router?
Sent from my LT30p using xda app-developers app
I think I found the problem, the 5ghz band of my router doesn't have much range appearently, when i'm trying to find the 5ghz band outside of my house, i can't find it, I can only find it when i'm in my room, that's where the router stands, but the 2.4 ghz band has a much better range, I can connect to is almost 20-30 meters outside of my house. I'm wondering when Netgear is coming out with an update for my router, hopefully that will solve the problem, or maybe it will be solved when the Xperia T gets an update to Jelly Bean.
Dutchmann said:
I think I found the problem, the 5ghz band of my router doesn't have much range appearently, when i'm trying to find the 5ghz band outside of my house, i can't find it, I can only find it when i'm in my room, that's where the router stands, but the 2.4 ghz band has a much better range, I can connect to is almost 20-30 meters outside of my house. I'm wondering when Netgear is coming out with an update for my router, hopefully that will solve the problem, or maybe it will be solved when the Xperia T gets an update to Jelly Bean.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi there,
I've just bought the Xperia T and I'm pretty disappointed I can't use my home wifi.
I'm having exactly the same problem - I can see my connection and connect (sometimes) but it is a very poor connection, then after a minute or says "Not in range". If I go outside (which is actually closer to where the modem is) I can get data at an acceptable speed.
Sorry I'm such a noob but can you explain to me where the limitation lies and how I might fix it. Every other device used in the house works - even an old iphone 3gs - I'm surprised Sony's newest phone hasn't implemented technology that must have been in use for years.
Or if it is the modem - any ideas on how to change it.
Sorry - can't give you details - the modem is locked in the landlords garage - so I can't see what make it is.
Thanks for helping a noob.
I have faced the same problem with my TX when connecting to my AP.
I think there is WIFI problem in receiving the WIFI signal of security mode WPA2/WPA.
You can change the WIFI security mode to WEP or No security.
My device can connect the WEP mode WIFI.
Hope you can solve the problem!
pechnatunk said:
Hi there,
I've just bought the Xperia T and I'm pretty disappointed I can't use my home wifi.
I'm having exactly the same problem - I can see my connection and connect (sometimes) but it is a very poor connection, then after a minute or says "Not in range". If I go outside (which is actually closer to where the modem is) I can get data at an acceptable speed.
Sorry I'm such a noob but can you explain to me where the limitation lies and how I might fix it. Every other device used in the house works - even an old iphone 3gs - I'm surprised Sony's newest phone hasn't implemented technology that must have been in use for years.
Or if it is the modem - any ideas on how to change it.
Sorry - can't give you details - the modem is locked in the landlords garage - so I can't see what make it is.
Thanks for helping a noob.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Skylegend said:
I have faced the same problem with my TX when connecting to my AP.
I think there is WIFI problem in receiving the WIFI signal of security mode WPA2/WPA.
You can change the WIFI security mode to WEP or No security.
My device can connect the WEP mode WIFI.
Hope you can solve the problem!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmmm, that's strange - my modem is set to WEP and it's not really a connection problem but a signal strength problem. But like I said - no other device has this issue. It is hard to test - right now I'm accessing this from a cloud connection which is average compared to another I used this morning, though much better than at home. But I don't know how close I am to the transmitter right now.
Hello again,
I'm still trying to get to the bottom of this:
So my Xperia T can connect and use the wifi in my house fine IF I am within 2-3 metres of my router, which has the following settings -
O2 Wireless Box, model - TG585v7
Software release - 8.2.7.7
Boot loader 1.0.0
Interface Type: 802.11b/g
Band: 2.4G Hz (This unfortunately cannot be changed)
It is currently set to WEP security but when I changed to WPA-2 there was still no change - could only connect when a couple of metres away.
Also even when holding my phone 10cm away from the router I still only get a "Good" connection. So I started to think it must be my phone that is faulty - I've been to coffee shops and picked up the free Cloud wifi ok, though one kept dropping in and out. And I have been into mobile phone shops testing their wifi and it connects.
But yesterday I went to Carphone Warehouse and compared to one of their demo Xperia T phones - the demo was connected to their wifi fine yet my phone could not even "see" their connection - I was sure it was my phone.
But now I'm really confused - today I went to a different Carphone warehouse - there was no demo phone but I picked up their signal and the quality was "Excellent" - something I'd never seen before.
My phone is locked to T-Mobile - can a carrier locked phone somehow restrict access to certain routers?? Seems very weird to me, though I am quite a novice at all of this.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
locked phone won't block AP access... maybe backup your data and try master reset.. factory reset... don't need erase sd card.
Sent from my LT29i using xda app-developers app
Are you using the T-Mobile WiFi app? If so delete your connection from settings, then set your home WiFi via the T-Mobile app, it may be connecting to the open one not your full one.
If you don't use the app, I would change the channel on the router and try that.
Sent from my LT30p using xda app-developers app
xperia t
I use Xperia T in Turkey but I bought ıt in Bosnia. I checked my phone's ID and ın myphone has got Vodafone Wi-Fi .. When My phone's Wi-Fi is online then suddenly myphone begin afresh itself. What is the problem please help me ..
I had the same problem then I discovered it happen only in stock firmware or stock based ROM. Try Flashing CM10 or CM10.1. Your problem will likely be solved.
I plugged in the Chromecast and put in all the information and waited while it tried to connect to my Actiontec router. (Verizon FIOS) I waited, and waited and waited. After about 10 minutes it goes back to the beginning. The help button says I need to turn off the Access Point Isolation on my router. Unfortunately there's no such setting. I'm not happy because I have 3 more of these coming tomorrow and if I can't connect to my network I'm shot. Panic starts to set in.
Luckily, I have a cheap $30 Fry's wifi router on my network. I switched the Chromecast to the Fry's router and, bam, it connected immediately.
So, if your cable company's router doesn't work, just go out and buy a cheapo wifi router and you'll be fine.
The joy that is reading Verizon FiOS/Actiontec entrails
Deep voodoo Actiontec solution: You need to disable the IGMP Proxy.
The exact location of this checkbox changes between Actiontec revs but a good start is "Advanced/Routing/Routing Protocols/Internet Group Management Protocol (IGMP)."
Once this is off network devices typically can discover & connect to eachother.
Another strategy is, on the latest revs, enabling IPv6 (no, after years of promises Verizon still hasn't rolled IPv6 out yet, but at least the latest routers might be ready.) Anyhow, this is often reported to resolve local connectivity issues.
Just for reference, I have the newest Fios Actiontec router, and had no problems. Just so everyone with that router doesn't think they'll necessarily need to do this.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2
Evo4gLI said:
Just for reference, I have the newest Fios Actiontec router, and had no problems. Just so everyone with that router doesn't think they'll necessarily need to do this.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good point. Mine's about 6 years old, maybe I should get them to replace it.
I had the same problem. Turned off NAT, connected, then turned NAT on
Guess this is reason #153 why I'm glad I have a Linksys router piggy-backed off of the crappy FIOS unit for the majority of my networking needs
A tip if upgrading to a newer Actiontec router: The settings backup files are *not* compatible between versions.
I upgraded to the latest router version six months ago; I'd done a lot of customizing (assigning addresses, ports, etc) and assumed it'd be an easy switch. I ended up having to temporarily return my newer router to get back my old, screenshot many pages of settings, return the old for new, then re-enter settings. A hassle, but it does run better now.
Assuming the local depot/storefront has 'em in stock it's a few minutes to swap out for a newer or newest revision.
Coincidentally I had a visit a week later to replace a burnt-out-again ONT & the tech reported he'd changed things around a bit in it for even better service. I've no idea what that involved but if it's been a long time you might want to look into a service call.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Some Help
I also picked up a Chromecast yesterday and am on Verizon Fios with the new Actiontec MI424WR router. I cannot get my Chromecast to connect. Sometimes I see it on the network, but it will not connect. Verizon, Actiontec, and so far Google have not been able to help me. I tried the tricks in this posting, but no luck.
I have a Buffalo Air Station wireless router, but have not had success operating this in conjunction with the Fios service (I have tried to bridge it, and run it just off ActionTec). Can someone help? I am okay at digging into this stuff, but you guys know so much more than me!
HELP!
success
The instructions below worked for me. Found it in an Apple Forum out of all places.
log in to your router(192.168.1.1), go to Wireless Settings then Advanced Security Settings. At the bottom of the screen, click "Other Advanced Wireless Options". On the next screen change Network from "Network (Home/Office)" to "Broadband". Click Apply
Just curious but it could be that you have multicasting disabled on the router.
It could also be that the router does not support multicasting in general, but this is a feature that allows devices to discover each other on a private network.
spm139 said:
I also picked up a Chromecast yesterday and am on Verizon Fios with the new Actiontec MI424WR router. I cannot get my Chromecast to connect. Sometimes I see it on the network, but it will not connect. Verizon, Actiontec, and so far Google have not been able to help me. I tried the tricks in this posting, but no luck.
I have a Buffalo Air Station wireless router, but have not had success operating this in conjunction with the Fios service (I have tried to bridge it, and run it just off ActionTec). Can someone help? I am okay at digging into this stuff, but you guys know so much more than me!
HELP!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am having the same issue with DIR 655 router. Tried all the suggestion in this thread. But still no luck. Anyone having similar problem with DIR 655?
I'm having a similar problem. I've got a Linksys router that is happily supplying WiFi to my laptop, mobile phone, Kindle Fire, and XBox, but I can't get Chromecast to work properly. I get partially into the setup and then get the following message -- "Chromecast connected to [Name of Network], but can't connect to the internet." I've fiddled with countless settings to no avail. AP/Isolation mode is disabled, I've only got 2.4 GHz bands, the router is 20 ft away, etc. All the suggestions the Google Help guy gave me have had zero effect, so I thought I'd post here to see if anyone else ran into this error message and had a solution.
mowgle said:
I am having the same issue with DIR 655 router. Tried all the suggestion in this thread. But still no luck. Anyone having similar problem with DIR 655?
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Click to collapse
OK! finally found the issue. If your wifi password is too long(auto generated for WPA2) then chromecast cannot handle it. Reducing the length of router password fixed it. I reduced it to ~20 characters. Have not tested the pw length limit of cast.
mowgle said:
OK! finally found the issue. If your wifi password is too long(auto generated for WPA2) then chromecast cannot handle it. Reducing the length of router password fixed it. I reduced it to ~20 characters. Have not tested the pw length limit of cast.
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Click to collapse
My password is only 9 characters, and I have tried everything else suggested here. Anyone else have any ideas on how to get it to work?
I'm also having a similar issue with my DIR-601. I am able to detect my Chromecast but after the screen that asks for the WiFi info /renaming the Chromecast, I get an error stating that we were unable to find Chromecast on your network. I have checked that UPnP and have Enable IPv4 Multicast Streams selected (tried both ways.) I don't have any special firewall rules or anything like that. My pass is only 8 characters.
Wish Google had better support for this, all they have is a little questionnaire on their support page.If anyone finds a solution, please share. Thanks
Out of curiosity where is the enable multicast option at? I didn't see one.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
axdela said:
log in to your router(192.168.1.1), go to Wireless Settings then Advanced Security Settings. At the bottom of the screen, click "Other Advanced Wireless Options". On the next screen change Network from "Network (Home/Office)" to "Broadband". Click Apply
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Thanks! This is the only solution that fixed it for me.
axdela said:
The instructions below worked for me. Found it in an Apple Forum out of all places.
log in to your router(192.168.1.1), go to Wireless Settings then Advanced Security Settings. At the bottom of the screen, click "Other Advanced Wireless Options". On the next screen change Network from "Network (Home/Office)" to "Broadband". Click Apply
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Worked for me as well. Thank you! :good:
None of the suggestions in this thread worked for me. I have the Actiontec Gen 3, rev I router (MI424WR-GEN3I), with firmware v. 40.20.7.
Apparently, the UPnP page is hidden, but can be accessed after logging in to the router using: 192.168.1.1/index.cgi?active_page=900. Changing the settings on this page didn't work either.
After a quick Google, I found an IGMP hidden page at 192.168.1.1/index.cgi?active_page=6059. I looked at these settings yet.
Calling Verizon's Expert Care, I was told that they don't support UPnP, since they only provide access to the Internet.
Fix found ... at least for me
AJL-Hates-Verizon said:
None of the suggestions in this thread worked for me. I have the Actiontec Gen 3, rev I router (MI424WR-GEN3I), with firmware v. 40.20.7.
Apparently, the UPnP page is hidden, but can be accessed after logging in to the router using: 192.168.1.1/index.cgi?active_page=900. Changing the settings on this page didn't work either.
After a quick Google, I found an IGMP hidden page at 192.168.1.1/index.cgi?active_page=6059. I looked at these settings yet.
Calling Verizon's Expert Care, I was told that they don't support UPnP, since they only provide access to the Internet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same issues as everyone else at both my office and my house. At home, I changed the IGMP settings, the UPnP settings, the security settings, etc. I finally figured out a way to make it work by simply trying to complete the setup from my laptop instead of my Droid 4. It worked on the first try at my house, and now all of my phones, tablets and computers can cast to the big tv. I immediately brought my laptop to the office and changed the IGMP setting -- and it immediately worked after that.
So maybe a solution is to try setting it up from your computer instead of your phone/tablet? It worked for me twice that way!
Hey all. New poster long time lurker. I just wanna thank everyone in advance for all the help I've gotten over the years.
Anyway. I own a chromecast and am attempting to connect it to my home wifi network. I'm using a mi424wr-gen3i router with the latest firmware. I disabled IGMP and UPNP is enabled. I turned on IPv6 like some other posters mentioned. My phone (Bionic) gets to the set up page, sees the chromecast but fails at one of two points. Either it says it cannot communicate with the device or it gets to the point of connecting the chromecast to the network and fails. My network is using a WPA2 security key. As far as I can tell my router is not a dual band and only transmits at 2.4ghz. The chrome support mentions something about Access Point/ Client Isolation, but I have no idea what that is or how to configure it. I called both Verizon and Google. Google said check upnp and 2.4 ghz. Verizon said its not their problem.
I was following this thread which seemed to be point on, on my issue. However where other people seemed to make it work, mine still fails.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=44018888
drstrangelove5 said:
Hey all. New poster long time lurker. I just wanna thank everyone in advance for all the help I've gotten over the years.
Anyway. I own a chromecast and am attempting to connect it to my home wifi network. I'm using a mi424wr-gen3i router with the latest firmware. I disabled IGMP and UPNP is enabled. I turned on IPv6 like some other posters mentioned. My phone (Bionic) gets to the set up page, sees the chromecast but fails at one of two points. Either it says it cannot communicate with the device or it gets to the point of connecting the chromecast to the network and fails. My network is using a WPA2 security key. As far as I can tell my router is not a dual band and only transmits at 2.4ghz. The chrome support mentions something about Access Point/ Client Isolation, but I have no idea what that is or how to configure it. I called both Verizon and Google. Google said check upnp and 2.4 ghz. Verizon said its not their problem.
I was following this thread which seemed to be point on, on my issue. However where other people seemed to make it work, mine still fails.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=44018888
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Click to collapse
Have you tried rebooting your router, disable MAC address filtering if it is enabled, and/or reset the router's settings back to default
supernova_00 said:
Have you tried rebooting your router, disable MAC address filtering if it is enabled, and/or reset the router's settings back to default
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Yeah. I rebooted to the factory reset. Unfortunately its a verizon issued modem/router combo and its to their specs. MAC filtering is disabled and its been rebooted.
Get the latest router from Verizon & turn off IGMP. Swapping out the router should be free.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 4
I was having a similar problem but I realized that Chromecast only needs the network name and it's password to work. After the step were you put in the password and it fails, I should work..Also, if you are getting stuck renaming chromecast, leave it the way it is for now. Before you start over, check to see if you can see chromecast on you network using Fing or a similar program.
drstrangelove5 said:
Hey all. New poster long time lurker. I just wanna thank everyone in advance for all the help I've gotten over the years.
Anyway. I own a chromecast and am attempting to connect it to my home wifi network. I'm using a mi424wr-gen3i router with the latest firmware. I disabled IGMP and UPNP is enabled. I turned on IPv6 like some other posters mentioned. My phone (Bionic) gets to the set up page, sees the chromecast but fails at one of two points. Either it says it cannot communicate with the device or it gets to the point of connecting the chromecast to the network and fails. My network is using a WPA2 security key. As far as I can tell my router is not a dual band and only transmits at 2.4ghz. The chrome support mentions something about Access Point/ Client Isolation, but I have no idea what that is or how to configure it. I called both Verizon and Google. Google said check upnp and 2.4 ghz. Verizon said its not their problem.
I was following this thread which seemed to be point on, on my issue. However where other people seemed to make it work, mine still fails.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=44018888
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had same issue and fixed it by doing a MANUAL entry of all wireless connection to your router... type in SSID, pick WPA2, and enter passcode.
Well after several hours of talking with Google and Verizon again. Verizon hung up on me and Google solved the problem. Apparantly my phone (Droid Bionic) is not communicating with the device properly. Off all things i was able to set it up with my buddies IPAD. Ironic right? Now I just need to figure out what the heck is wrong with my phone. I read somewhere that the razrs were having problems. The Bionic and Razr are one in the same so i guess ill head that way. Anyway thanks guys.
drstrangelove5 said:
Well after several hours of talking with Google and Verizon again. Verizon hung up on me and Google solved the problem. Apparantly my phone (Droid Bionic) is not communicating with the device properly. Off all things i was able to set it up with my buddies IPAD. Ironic right? Now I just need to figure out what the heck is wrong with my phone. I read somewhere that the razrs were having problems. The Bionic and Razr are one in the same so i guess ill head that way. Anyway thanks guys.
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It's always a good idea to try different devices when possible. Adding the Google Cast extension on Chrome for the PC may be the easiest to work with since you're using a full keyboard.
I had to manuilly allow my chromecasts Mac address... Then it worked no problem.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
drstrangelove5 said:
Well after several hours of talking with Google and Verizon again. Verizon hung up on me and Google solved the problem. Apparantly my phone (Droid Bionic) is not communicating with the device properly. Off all things i was able to set it up with my buddies IPAD. Ironic right? Now I just need to figure out what the heck is wrong with my phone. I read somewhere that the razrs were having problems. The Bionic and Razr are one in the same so i guess ill head that way. Anyway thanks guys.
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Click to collapse
My wife's razr had the same issue. You could have also used your PC to set it up.
Here is the thread on the Razr / Bionic issue: groups.google.com/d/msgid/chromebook-central/1280fb6a-d063-4d77-993d-dbec4fc6cdb6%40googlegroups.com (sorry, you have to copy/paste it, I have less than 10 posts so I can't post links yet).
Play Music and Play Movies/TV probably won't work for you either.
Just hit Try Again and it will work. It fails the first time, and hitting Try Again did the trick.
Not sure if it was luck or what not.
I've been getting a slow to fair connection on Steam Link, which really bothers me. I have 1GBPS WiFi from Xfinity with 40MBPS upload speed, both of which should allow me to connect to my computer very well. My computer is hardwired via ethernet, so that's not a problem, however Steam Link never labels my connection "Good." I have heard that this is the result of the WiFi on board Android opting to pick 2.4Ghz, and I've been looking to disable it. I couldn't get the package to install on Fox's Magisk for the 2.4Ghz WiFi disabler add on, so I searched around the forums and checked both my settings, as well as developer options. I even looked in data/misc/wifi, but there wasn't anything there I could tinker with to help with this. I did turn WiFi safe mode on in hopes to improve the stability of my device's WiFi, but this is as far as I've gotten.
Does anyone have suggestions for disabling 2.4Ghz or otherwise increasing my WiFi speed on here? I would really like not to have to seperate the bands manually, as last time that caused a host of problems with other people's devices in my household.
For what it's worth, and I'm aware this doesn't answer your question directly, nor help you right away, but my router allows me to use a single SSID for both 5GHz and 2.4GHz, and it automatically connects at the highest frequency a device can handle.
My point is that I don't think the issue is Android, because I've consistently gotten 5GHz Wi-Fi on my Pixel and Samsung devices in the last four years I've had this router.
I know you already discount this possibility but just for anyone else who comes across this...
Other than possibly buying a different router (I use Synology routers, and they just came out with a new one that I might upgrade to sometime), another potential workaround is for you to configure your router to use different SSIDs for the two frequencies, and then just never connect from your Tablet to the 2.4GHz SSID. I know this might be a PITA or possibly even just not a realistic solution, depending on how many other devices (smart devices) you already have configured to connect to your existing SSID.
roirraW edor ehT said:
For what it's worth, and I'm aware this doesn't answer your question directly, nor help you right away, but my router allows me to use a single SSID for both 5GHz and 2.4GHz, and it automatically connects at the highest frequency a device can handle.
My point is that I don't think the issue is Android, because I've consistently gotten 5GHz Wi-Fi on my Pixel and Samsung devices in the last four years I've had this router.
I know you already discount this possibility but just for anyone else who comes across this...
Other than possibly buying a different router (I use Synology routers, and they just came out with a new one that I might upgrade to sometime), another potential workaround is for you to configure your router to use different SSIDs for the two frequencies, and then just never connect from your Tablet to the 2.4GHz SSID. I know this might be a PITA or possibly even just not a realistic solution, depending on how many other devices (smart devices) you already have configured to connect to your existing SSID.
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Click to collapse
I mean, the two seperate SSID's is a valid solution, just one I'm not currently willing to use.
Here's something strange that made me believe that it's an Android issue. I previously used Steam Link on an IPad and got a good connection, I then moved over to Android and don't. It's very bizarre. I also can't backspace in Chrome Remote Desktop on Android for some reason. Also bizarre.
I do totally want a new router, but I'm tapped out of money for the foreseeable future anyway. We have the most up to date Xfinity router though, which I think is from 2018 or some such thing, to its credit, the internet almost never disconnects, and when it does, it fixes itself within around 60 seconds. Previous xfinity routers would disconnect frequently, and would require a reset to get working again.
Easiest is to have two different SSID's and different password for each. That way your galaxy tab will only connect to 5GHz and won't use 2.4GHz as long you don't connect to it with password for it.
Since if you name 2.4GHz and 5GHz same SSID then it will connect to 2.4GHz or 5GHz and keep switching since both have same SSID and password.