I've just bought an used Diamond for $82. It looks great, there are only a couple very minor scratches on the display (fixable with a little Displex methinks), came with all the standard accessories plus a genuine HTC leather pouch.
Story is as follows: The owner bought it last week for $140, but noticed later that the G-sensor only works up and down. He took to "the only authorized HTC service center in Romania" and they said something about a broken foil and asked for over $150 to fix it, so he decides to sell it. He'd just picked it up from service today (the diagnosis itself cost him $5 so they didn't even give it back for free). He could've sold it for more, but lucky me.
So, i check it out, and accidentally drop it. It falls flat on its back. Okay, it isn't hurt, everything works, i pay the guy and leave with the phone. On the subway back home everything fine, but at home when i try to connect to wifi it won't start. I reboot the thing and i get the dreaded MicropError. Then the backlight decides only to work when it wants to.
I take the thing apart only to find the wireless cable had come out of its connector, and when i lift the mobo out the display cable also detaches easily. I plug the wireless back in, and notice that the display cable doesn't "click" when the board is mounted back in its place. Aha, so this must've been it. Great service center they have, they can't even click a connector in place.
I use a flat screwdriver to make sure the cable locks firmly in place, put a piece of paper under it to keep it from moving around again, and put the phone back together. Success. I haz working HTC.
It's true that a broken G-Sensor can't be fixed, right? Not that i care too much about it, i just want to know a yes/no type answer.
So, now the main question. I already noticed that the built-in speaker is crap, something typical of WinMo devices as far as i've seen. Now, the supplied headphones are also crap and it doesn't have a jack adapter either. Before i slice the handsfree and patch my Samsung in-ears onto it, i want to know if it sounds good on quality headphones. I don't need it loud as the Samsungs are plenty sensitive, but i need good bass. I have a Sony Ericsson w595 and it's got really powerful bass. I used to have a HP iPAQ rx4240, and it was loud, but it was miles behind the SE phone in sound quality and bass.
The main idea is that the HTC will replace one of my two phones - either the Nokia N93i or the SE w595. The N93i is held in one piece by superglue only and sometimes i need to restart it before it will accept a charge (and it's a PAIN opening Symbian menus for the first time after you restart it). The w595 i got as a gift this summer and is in pristine shape complete with protective foil applied to display. So i could easily sell it for what i paid for the HTC.
While I already have this posted over at Rootzwiki, I figured it would make sense to post it over here for the wider audience. There may be some parts missing from here (copying useful parts over, and the thread covers a few months), but the full thread can easily be found. I am using Timur's ROM, and installing the Nexus into my 2006 Audi A4. Ever since I bought the car I have been annoyed/disappointed with the factory stereo, for one thing it has a tape deck (why a car made in 2006 has a tape deck, is something that will forever confuse me). It also has no bluetooth, no GPS, no way to add an aux input except using a cassette type adaptor. All in all, its pretty limited. My options for replacing it were either an RNS-E ($800+) or an aftermarket unit (cost of aftermarket unit + approximately $200 in wiring to get it functional).
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I have already replaced everything downstream of the head unit, starting with a JBL MS8, I then have a pair of Alpine amplifiers running all of my speakers. The sound is good, but just something about the original head unit always bugged me. On an Audi forum I am a member of, I recently saw someone had mentioned they were looking to install an iPad into their dash. That got the wheels turning, and before you know it. I was holding my wifes Kindle Fire up to the dash.
Since the fitment was good, I decided to go ahead with the project. Bought a 16GB Nexus 7, I went with the 16GB because I don't plan to store a whole lot on the tablet itself. I also started ordering a bunch of supplies that I would need:
Dash kit
12V DC-DC Regulator
Fuse Tap
OTG Cable
USB Hub
90 degree mini USB connector
Sabre USB-DAC
I thought about leaving the Nexus stock for a couple weeks, but after about a day rooted it and flashed with Timur's USB ROM. I removed my stock head unit from the car, plugged the JBL MS8 into the 3.5mm output, and nothing. I then realized that the MS8 currently gets a remote turn on signal from my OEM head unit. Currently I am trying to locate a switchable 12V somewhere, but likely will end up using the fuse tap.
Here is where things look so far:
The kit is not pushed all the way back in, this was really just for test fitment purposes. Since I don't yet have the fuse tap, I want to keep my OEM head unit in there for a couple more weeks. Mental note: If you think you are going to sneeze when using a Dremel, switch off the Dremel:
In order to get the Nexus to sit flush, I had to dremel off some material on the back of the dash kit. The scratch is only noticeable at certain angles, but I may well pick up another dash kit at some point. Once my 90 degree USB connector arrives I need to figure out which of the area's in red below I need to cut some away from. They are simply plastic, that I think help hold the stock head unit in place. So I should be able to cut a notch out for the USB cable to go through:
That's about the extent of my progress for now. As I am currently waiting on a few things to arrive in the mail. Ultimately I will have the Nexus semi permanent in the dash (I want to be able to remove it if parked in high crime areas), USB-OTG cable plugged in, then a USB hub, with the USB-DAC sending signal to the MS8, and an iPod flashed with Rockbox as external storage in the glovebox for music. I plan to use my cell phone and bluetooth tethering for streaming music / navigation. At some point I am also going to pick up a Connects2 harness and Joycon to retain my steering wheel controls, and am also keeping an eye on the useage of an easycap in order to add a back up cam.
Original Rootzwiki Link: http://rootzwiki.com/topic/39361-2006-audi-a4-in-dash-install/
Edit: Had a few people asking me for the launcher, it should now be attached to this post. The black border was in order to keep the image centralized on my home screen. Along with this image I just used UCCW to create hotspots for opening the apps.
Bit of an update from today...
Safety first when working on the car.
Pulled out the glovebox, knee bolster on the drivers side and trunk trim in order to run wiring. I had to run a new remote turn on wire to my MS8 as there is no switchable 12v in the trunk. Power and ground to the fuse box area, and I wanted to run a USB extension into the glovebox for my flash drive.
For now I ended up removing the inline fuse that I was using behind the fuse box on the 12v going to the 12v regulator, I may add it again, but have it tapped into a fused circuit, so not sure I need to.
I got 99% of things working today, my ground wire to the USB hub needs to be re-done. The wires are so thin that the splice was not working, for now I just have them twisted together. I did get music playing through the MS8, and my USB flash drive was mounting fine. The other issue I am running into is when I turn off the ignition, the hub loses power instantly, causing the Nexus to give me a warning about improper removal of USB storage. I am trying to find out if there is a way to use Tasker to unmount the storage. But, I don't think I can get it to work, as the second the ignition goes off, the hub loses power. I may just have to manually unmount each time (which sucks).
The other thing is that I need to trim some more plastic to the right of the tablet, due to the 90 degree micro USB adapter, and charger cable, the dash trim does not seem to fit in properly. I am planning to finish these pieces up tomorrow, and then see how it does with my commute to work on Tuesday.
Last update for the weekend, mostly working.
I glued a couple small pieces of foam at the top to push the Nexus outwards, I may add something to the bottom as well to make it sit a little more flush. Somewhat afraid to remove it at the moment though, due to the USB issue with the cable being knocked slightly causing it to lose connection. I do want to think of a solution though, as like I said, I want to be able to remove it from the car.
Took a quick test drive into town and back (about 30 miles of driving) audio / power did not cut out at all. Battery went from 78% when I left, and was back up to 83% when I got home. Spent half the time streaming music from the flash drive, the other half streaming over Slacker using Bluetooth tethered to my cell phone.
Next steps are to save up for a CAN-BUS interface, and then pick up a Joycon. Having had to change the volume via the screen, I want to use steering wheel controls. It's difficult to accurately adjust the volume, so I want the steering wheel option back. I also need to try and think of what to do with the USB. If I can find a charger cable with a shorter plug section, that may work as I can remove the 90 degree bend. But, most I have looked (I have 3 different kinds laying around the house) all have a similar length to them. I also need to re-calibrate my MS8, the center image is slightly off to the left with the Nexus. I am also likely going to refine my Tasker profiles at some point.
The one issue I did have after going for a drive, was that the Nexus froze when I got home. I am 99.9% sure it was my fault though. When I was running wires, I had the battery disconnected, which caused my key-fob remote to be out of sync with the car. To sync it back up, you put it in the ignition, turn the ignition on, push the lock button, then turn the ignition off again. I did this in fairly quick sequence, which I think caused Tasker to lock up as it was still powering everything on, when I removed power again. I had to pop the dash trim off, and reboot using the power button. Working fine now though (still need to sync the key).
I drilled a larger hole today for my new USB cable (the hole is a mess as I had to use my Dremel, and there is 0 room to work there, especially as the tan piece to the right is a visible piece of the dash that I don't want to tear up):
What's annoying is that while USPS say my new cable has been delivered, it's not in my mailbox
Next thing I need to do is figure out a better way to make the Nexus sit flush against the bezel. I could tape it, but would prefer not to do that. In the first picture above, the blue box is around a piece that I glued some foam to, but it came off (I only used a small amount of glue). I may go this route again, the only other option is to try to fabricate some kind of hook system to the back of the bezel, but I am there is not much room on the back:
The advantage to making some kind of hook system though, is that it will likely hold the tablet nicely against the bezel, and make it a little easier for removal/installaiton. You can see in the bottom right of the bezel where I had to cut a section out, this kept pushing on the power / volume rocker when I was installing it in the car causing it to either end up muted, or power off.
I wish that cable were in my mailbox!! I might try to get things working in its current configuration at least for my drive to work tomorrow. Chances are I will get annoyed with it cutting out though, and give in.
Edit: So, just went down to the garage to take a look at things. Seems like I need a new OTG cable, I was looking at the male end of mine that would plug into the Nexus, and noticed it at a slight angle, if I touch it, I see it spark. Not sure if that's a result of it being a cheap Chinese cable, or the plug being pushed at an angle by the dash. Either way it means I am now having to find another OTG Y-cable, which I will be lucky to get before Monday. I may try to look inside at the pins, just to make sure there is not something that has fallen in there causing a short. But, at the same time am not sure I want to risk my equipment on it.
Thankfully I can use my phone to listen to music on the way to work and back.
Here is my awesome fix for getting rid of the gap:
Yes, that is elastic from some underwear. LOL. I did not want to buy some elastic if it did not work, so figured what the heck, use some elastic from some boxer shorts. Works perfectly, holds the Nexus up against the bezel, and is strong enough that I can hold onto the plastic with the Nexus in there, and it won't fall out.
The gap that is left though is due to a slight curvature in the bezel:
Currently I am not sure what to do about that piece, if I try to sand it flat then I essentially am going to have to sand the top and bottom lip away almost completely. I have a new trim piece coming that should match the interior a little better, not sure if that is curved or not yet though, if it is as well, I may just deal with that piece. When it's in the car it's not too bad, and I don't know that I want to eliminate the bottom/top lip to have that piece flat.
Also, since I don't think I posted this picture yet, here is the downward facing micro USB cable from usbfirewire.com:
Some new parts arrived today, first new trim piece, this matches the dash perfectly. I just hope I can get it to work as it seems deeper than my current one.
Also my Joycon arrived, with pre-shrunk heat shrink... LOL. We have had unseasonably warm temperature here the last 2 days (90F) so I think the heat shrink did what it was supposed to do.
Finally the CAN-BUS adapter arrived as well.
I am hoping to get the Joycon installed this evening
After getting the Joycon installed, I also went ahead and ended up ordering a DCDC-USB, I had been having various odd issues and it turns out that most of them were a combination of poor power, and poor connections. I created a pigtail to connect to the DCDC-USB that has 2 female USB ports, one of them provides power to the hub, the other to the Nexus. Also running a Jabra Journey to route phone calls through. Charging rate is awesome, my battery typically gets to full during a single drive to work, and remains full all week long. Here is how the Nexus currently sits in the dash:
And here is a launcher I am working on:
It's supposed to mimic the RNS-E, so far it's not quite where I want it to be as I want to use %MTRACK to have a basic text of what song is playing, and not use the current widget. Apart from that though I am pretty happy with it.
Next things to do are to try and program a button on my steering wheel to activate voice search on the Nexus, possibly a back up camera and that's about it really.
Pretty neat!
Very cool! You made me LOL when I saw the Hanes. :good:
bhess said:
Pretty neat!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.
~wolverine~ said:
You made me LOL when I saw the Hanes. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha yep, that worked surprisingly well for holding the Nexus in place!
That looks pretty darn good man! From a fellow A4 owner (06 A4) I got stuck with the symphony II as well and was looking to upgrade to the RNS-E but I just don't know if i wanna pay that much, but i do prefer the OEM look over aftermarket. Looking how you got this thing set up and diggin the RNS look a like launcher, I might just need to get another nexus and have a side project. Subbed man! Will be willing to share the launcher? Keep us posted!
So what are you doing to keep your n7 from getting so hot in such a confined and unventilated space?
Awesome mate.:good:
Very nice build. A lot better than my setup in a 98 Dakota Sport (cheap eBay dock and an old droid 2)
Sent from my XT907 using xda premium
Freshtojeff said:
That looks pretty darn good man! From a fellow A4 owner (06 A4) I got stuck with the symphony II as well and was looking to upgrade to the RNS-E but I just don't know if i wanna pay that much, but i do prefer the OEM look over aftermarket. Looking how you got this thing set up and diggin the RNS look a like launcher, I might just need to get another nexus and have a side project. Subbed man! Will be willing to share the launcher? Keep us posted!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I kept looking to upgrade to the RNS-E as well, but it's typically $800 cost, plus the wiring harness costs required put me off. I can definitely share the launcher, I am still working on it some, but as soon as I am happy with it can send you a copy. It's the 1st launcher I have put together, so a bit of trial and error at the moment. I would need to figure out a way to share it all as one thing, at the moment it's a combination of a background, and UCCW widgets. If nothing else, I can certainly help you getting it set up on your Nexus.
CreepyE said:
So what are you doing to keep your n7 from getting so hot in such a confined and unventilated space?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely nothing, well, I put a sunshade up in my windshield, but that's it. So far I have had no issues with it, and that has been with the 100F+ temperatures that the inside of the car can see in the Virginia summer. I thought about modifying the A/C ductwork that runs behind/above the tablet, but at the moment see no real need to do so.
naiku said:
I kept looking to upgrade to the RNS-E as well, but it's typically $800 cost, plus the wiring harness costs required put me off. I can definitely share the launcher, I am still working on it some, but as soon as I am happy with it can send you a copy. It's the 1st launcher I have put together, so a bit of trial and error at the moment. I would need to figure out a way to share it all as one thing, at the moment it's a combination of a background, and UCCW widgets. If nothing else, I can certainly help you getting it set up on your Nexus.
Absolutely nothing, well, I put a sunshade up in my windshield, but that's it. So far I have had no issues with it, and that has been with the 100F+ temperatures that the inside of the car can see in the Virginia summer. I thought about modifying the A/C ductwork that runs behind/above the tablet, but at the moment see no real need to do so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great work I installed one in my friend b6 a4
Good work on this Audi, seems original not custom made. Congratulations!
Excuse my ignorance, but the CAN-BUS adapter is used with the Joycon? The Joycon does not function as a steering wheel control on its own?
TampaChris said:
Excuse my ignorance, but the CAN-BUS adapter is used with the Joycon? The Joycon does not function as a steering wheel control on its own?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Joycon only reads resistance based signals, which CAN-BUS is not, so the adapter essentially takes the CAN-BUS signal and converts it into a resistance type signal that the Joycon is then able to interpret.
naiku said:
The Joycon only reads resistance based signals, which CAN-BUS is not, so the adapter essentially takes the CAN-BUS signal and converts it into a resistance type signal that the Joycon is then able to interpret.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought a joycon for my mazda 3. Do i need this adapter? i thought i can go from the steering wheel harness into the joycon into the USB hub. Will this not work?
WARNING! Hardware mods can brick your tablet even faster and deadlier than software, so please read carefully.
I am not responsible for your bricked tablet.
As I promised, I will share my experience about my attempts to improve the WIFI on my Teclast X98 plus II(C2D4).
A lot of users reported very bad WI-FI with this particular model, and the reason is simple:
The metal back cover! It simply shields the internals!!!. And we need to find a way around it.
First Step: Open the tablet
Have a plastic guitar pick and a cutter around
Try to find a gap to insert your pick
If you can't find a gap to insert the pick, slowly insert the cutter on the top of the tablet where the plastic strip is, and then insert the pick
Don't use the cutter to open, because you will make dents into the plastic
Don't force anything, be patient
After you inserted the pick, and you poped one part, the rest will follow
Don't insert the pick too deep and be extra careful with the cutter
Background: I live on the second floor, and I have a router on the first floor:
Speed before the mod: up to 5 Mbps
Now once the tablet is open we can see the internals, and it looks like it has plenty of space. We are interested in this part, the WIFI antenna:
Notice marking on the board: wifi plus(+) and minus(-)
First thing that I thought, is that maybe there is short between them. I checked with a multimeter and it was none.
I powered the tablet and did a speed test: the speeds were amazing!
So I started to experiment. There were multiple attempts but only two I found good enough.
Step TWO: Hardware mod
1. The basic way
You need only a pair of tweezers
You tweezers to unglue the tip of antenna
Be patient, do not apply to much force, the adhesive is strong but it slowly gives up
after the slim part of antena is free, make a fold 90 degrees up, so it will stick out of the case
Do not fold to agressive, the antenna doesn't really bends that way, so be carefull not to break it
make sure that antenna is not in the nearby clip and close the case
antenna still has adhesive, so glue it back to the screen
After you followed the steps from above, you should get something like this:
It is not very nice, but rather than an unusable tablet, this one is pretty good. Also, make sure you are not touching it when you use the tablet.
Speed after this mod: 5-15Mbps
2. Soldering extra wires
Warning! Be extra careful, while is not very difficult to solder on our tablet, I still recommend you to try to solder something before starting to work on the tablet.
You will need:
Soldering iron
Soldering supplies
multimeter
Copper wire with plastic cover(internet cable is not very good, phone cable: good)
Tape
Steps:
Cut a piece of wire, around 5 cm long
Remove the plastic from one end just a little, so you could solder it
Remove the plastic from the another end, about 3 cm, so that the wires will be free
Solder the short end to the (+) of wifi
Check if there is no shorts between the + and -
check that the original cable actually connects to original antenna
(Optional) Unstick the antenna from original position and stick it to the back cover, see images for details
stick the antenna exactly as shown in the image
be careful, do not rush and do not twist to hard
Get the free end of the soldered cable out of the case
Carefully put back the cover, with the copper wires sticking out
Do not press the cover fully, leave the top area a little open
Insert the thin wires between the gaps(as close to outside as possible)
Do not let the copper wires touch the metal back cover, twist them more to the center
Tape all connections, so it will not short with back cover!!
After you solder everything. You can also see the third cable with an aluminum foil, but that doesn't really do anything
This is the image with copper wires sticking out, better put them in the cracks before snapping the back cover:
Speed after the last mod: 10-25 Mbps
Please tell me the results.
If in doubt, better ASK BEFORE TRYING!!
Thanks Veaceslav. I soldered a phone cable exactly as you describe in option 2. I did not touch the original cable. I am hesitant to touch the original cable and antenna. I soldered the additional wire's one end to the ( + ) WiFi panel. I stayed away from the ( -) sign. The other end of the wire was kept hanging outside as you did. Unfortunately that did not seem to have any impact, better or worse. I suspect this is simply the limitation of the Realtek wifi module. It simply has a maximum range of 10 meters (as stated about this participated module). When I am in the same room as the router, I get the maximum speed which is 25 Mbps. Once I go to a different room about 9-10 meters away, I get very poor speeds, almost unusable.
aj624 said:
Thanks Veaceslav. I soldered a phone cable exactly as you describe in option 2. I did not touch the original cable. I am hesitant to touch the original cable and antenna. I soldered the additional wire's one end to the ( + ) WiFi panel. I stayed away from the ( -) sign. The other end of the wire was kept hanging outside as you did. Unfortunately that did not seem to have any impact, better or worse. I suspect this is simply the limitation of the Realtek wifi module. It simply has a maximum range of 10 meters (as stated about this participated module). When I am in the same room as the router, I get the maximum speed which is 25 Mbps. Once I go to a different room about 9-10 meters away, I get very poor speeds, almost unusable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. Did you check if you don't have a short between the (+) and (-) ?
2. Did you put some tape on top of the part where the (+) and (-) is? The back plate might sort them when is on top
4. You can also unstick the antenna and stick it to the plastic part of the cover, as shown in the picture, but be careful how you twist the antenna cable
Well the chip is also bad, in some areas I still get 1-2 Mbps where my phone still can do 15-20 Mbps..
Hi fellow user of the Teclast X98 Plus II!
I received my tablet only 3 weeks ago. I have the dual boot C2D6 version. The wifi was not stable (connection loss) and very slow.
After I updated the Firmware (C2D6, from the Teclast website) for the android version only I experienced better performance (no slow speed anymore). Unfortunately I still have loss of connection now and then. I didn't have the guts yet to do your harware mod
At least my table is usuable, however still not fully happy with it...
worked perfectly !
Thank you man ! I just followed what I did understand. For me, the plus (+) and minus (-) were shortened. I unsoldered the wire used for antenna and I just soldered it to the minus : this way, the minus is soldered to the mass (the black plate). I soldered an iron wire to the plus (+) and made a hole to let it go outside of the tablet. Now, I have a 15 Mbps stable connection at 10 meters (and 3 walls) while I had only 0.3 Mbps and unstable before.
Hi, the Mod work!!!
Photo A : My colleague unwrapped the wire of the original wifi antenna and soldered a Laptop Wifi antenna.
Photo B : I installed the antenna on the battery near the loudspeaker and closed the tablet. I completely lost the signal.
Photo C : After several tests I installed the antenna on the cover on the plastic section near the photo exit.
Result :
Original : 0-2 Mbps at that range
After the first intallation paste on battery : no reception
Before closing the case : 27Mbps
After closing the case : 16Mbps
Best result is 33Mbps – maximum on connection with the internet provider.
Not spectacular performance, but really usable.
Nice to hear that it worked for you!, to get the best results, take a look at the antenna that you soldered, see the thin wire part and then the huge base plate? Make sure that the thin one(+) is as far away from aluminum cover as possible. Also, try not to put it on top of something like the sd-card corever, because that one is also grounded(-)
Wifi Antenna paste on cover
veaceslav said:
Nice to hear that it worked for you!, to get the best results, take a look at the antenna that you soldered, see the thin wire part and then the huge base plate? Make sure that the thin one(+) is as far away from aluminum cover as possible. Also, try not to put it on top of something like the sd-card corever, because that one is also grounded(-)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Veaceslav,
First thanks for your tips and experience with the tablet.
The Laptop Wifi Antenna is paste with electric tape on the back cover on the plastic near the camera hole. the original antenna is remove from the Wifi pole + and - .
I try to install the Laptop Wifi Antenna at many place on the tablet. The second best place is outside the case on the side.
The pictures are not so clean, but I pretty happy with the result. Do you think that I should reinstall the original Wifi Antenna and if so change the wire?
My collegue try it with the laptop antenna and he said that the connection was really bad.
Thanks for your feedback
I don't know exactly, how it works better.
1. First I had 3 wires, original antenna(which I got it out of original position and glued it to the plastic part, as you can see in my pictures), the copper wire and a wire connected to a aluminum foil(wrapped in plastic). This one had decent speeds and good stability
2. Then I decided that I don't need the aluminum foil and I cut the 3rd wire, and I got slightly better internet speeds and but now I am getting a strong "gate effect(when you cover the part where antenna is with your hand, the signal drops to zero)"
I wish I didn't cut the 3 rd wire, because now I need to be careful how do I hold my tablet. I ordered a new antenna, which I am going to solder alongside with the original.
Do some experiments and see what setup works better for you!
I will share my results once I get the antenna
BoomBox antenna
What about using an antenna from a portable radio hacked into the case? TIA
eight.nit.al
Many thanks @veaceslav for the idea of this hardware mod!
I removed original WiFi antenna at all, and installed some used one from laptop (Toshiba L650, but probably can be any).
I've tired few location, and I get the best signal when antenna is placed on the opposite side to the original antenna, I mean next to the battery. There is some space and the new antenna fits almost ideal.
Before mod I got max 10 Mb/s and totally no signal (zero) when tablet was laying on the desk. Distance to router - 5 m.
Now under the same conditions I get max 30 Mb/s and 20 Mb/s when tablet is laying on the desk. Absolutely incredibile.
eight.bit.al said:
What about using an antenna from a portable radio hacked into the case? TIA
eight.nit.al
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any thick wire also works an antenna, however the build in antenna is still the best. You just need to unglue it from the case and stick it in reverse on the cover, the same as shown in the first picture. The gains will be substantial.
MarcinLewkowicz said:
Many thanks @veaceslav for the idea of this hardware mod!
I removed original WiFi antenna at all, and installed some used one from laptop (Toshiba L650, but probably can be any).
I've tired few location, and I get the best signal when antenna is placed on the opposite side to the original antenna, I mean next to the battery. There is some space and the new antenna fits almost ideal.
Before mod I got max 10 Mb/s and totally no signal (zero) when tablet was laying on the desk. Distance to router - 5 m.
Now under the same conditions I get max 30 Mb/s and 20 Mb/s when tablet is laying on the desk. Absolutely incredibile.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you put it under the metal cover, then you might loose some power, also when you hold the tablet, the signal drop might be even bigger. try to keep in close to the plastic strip from the top
I still found the default antenna the best optimized for the chipset, I just had to get it away from the metal plate of the sd card. That one is grounded and kills all the signal
@MarcinLewkowicz,
did you took a photo and can share it with us.
Thanks.
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