Database Develop

Help, I think I broke it!

I bought a new housing for my XDA Stellar as I had dropped it a couple of times and it was starting to look a little unloved. I followed a step-by-step dismantling guide to get the housing off and followed it in reverse to get the new one on. All went well and I was very pleased as I had changed it from being branded O2 to HTC. However, when I booted up, as it loaded the today screen it played the keyboard sliding sound and the screen flipped to landscape, as if I had the keyboard out. No matter what I do I cannot get it to recognise that it is shut. I have had the thing in pieces countless times and so far spent seven hours on the damn thing altogether. I can't see what I have done wrong. Everything seems to be exactly as it was originally.
At the moment I am making do with using it in landscape mode constantly. The only other way to rotate the screen is manually through the screen settings, but this defeats the object of the automatic rotation. And annoyingly, the button on the HTC Home launcher tab rotates it the wrong way!
I know this kind of stuff is less often talked about on here but if anyone has any experience of the hardware or with dismantling/reassembling the kaiser/stellar/tilt, absolutely any help will be immensely gratefully received.
In the meantime, I am gutted...
Thanks.

Mike Channon has much information on this, here is one link, you need to search for the rest.
http://michael-channon.mobile.spaces.live.com/ent.aspx?h=cns!4472423472DCFC38!287&fp=/top.aspx

Thanks for that, but the his guides are the ones I followed already...
Been searching for ages, all I need is one person who knows what the problem is. Is that too much to ask?
I'll keep trying for now.
Thanks again. Anyone have any other ideas they are more than welcome. Any Ideas at all. I'm desperate to sort this out!

Bumpity bump....

My intuition tells me you will have to take it back apart and look for the problem in, on or near the sliding mechanism and sensor. I'd bet you just re-assembled it a little incorrectly thus activating the slide sound and screen flip sensor. Perhaps a pinched wire or something...either way it needs to come back apart and examined closely. Or maybe I am wrong and someone else has a better idea..hope so!
Best of luck to ya!

Thanks, but I've done that so many times. I've looked all around it, swapped the sliding mechanism (as I now have 2), swapped the actual keyboard, put everything back to how it was originally before I swapped the housing, nothing.
What I really need to know is what triggers the screen rotation and sliding sound. I can't for the life of me see what it is. Unless it's something to do with the main board, in which case I'm pretty knackered.

matmaneyre said:
Thanks, but I've done that so many times. I've looked all around it, swapped the sliding mechanism (as I now have 2), swapped the actual keyboard, put everything back to how it was originally before I swapped the housing, nothing.
What I really need to know is what triggers the screen rotation and sliding sound. I can't for the life of me see what it is. Unless it's something to do with the main board, in which case I'm pretty knackered.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what i understand, there are magnets that trigger screen rotation. Im sure your going to ask me were they are, and my answer is have no idea. But my best quess is under the screen and one under the keyboard. So I hope I have helped you.

That would make sense actually, thanks for that. Now to grab my T6 screwdriver and start again...

Ok, so now I get the general gist of how the screen orientation mechanism works with the magnets, I have since found one magnet underneath the screen, but I still cannot find what this magnet relates to in order to switch the screen orientation. i have checked both of my housings and the main board but still to no avail. If anyone else understands this mechanism a bit better, any info would be greatly appreciated.
I'm getting closer, but still not quite there!

matmaneyre said:
I bought a new housing for my XDA Stellar as I had dropped it a couple of times and it was starting to look a little unloved. I followed a step-by-step dismantling guide to get the housing off and followed it in reverse to get the new one on. All went well and I was very pleased as I had changed it from being branded O2 to HTC. However, when I booted up, as it loaded the today screen it played the keyboard sliding sound and the screen flipped to landscape, as if I had the keyboard out. No matter what I do I cannot get it to recognise that it is shut. I have had the thing in pieces countless times and so far spent seven hours on the damn thing altogether. I can't see what I have done wrong. Everything seems to be exactly as it was originally.
At the moment I am making do with using it in landscape mode constantly. The only other way to rotate the screen is manually through the screen settings, but this defeats the object of the automatic rotation. And annoyingly, the button on the HTC Home launcher tab rotates it the wrong way!
I know this kind of stuff is less often talked about on here but if anyone has any experience of the hardware or with dismantling/reassembling the kaiser/stellar/tilt, absolutely any help will be immensely gratefully received.
In the meantime, I am gutted...
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, don't build up your hopes based on the following - it is by way of things to look for ONLY.
I have not made by own detailed pics of the Kaiser so far and I have not located the magnet or receiver switch - mainly 'cos I wasn't looking for them.
However here is the TyTn / Hermes. It MAY be similar to the Kaiser so it MAY give you ideas on what to look for/check.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Not the nost impressive looking thing is it!!
This is what a magnet sensor switch looks like. But importantly it will obviously need to be connected to the circuit either by ribbon cable or directly onto the m/board. In the case of the Hermes above it is on the KEYBOARD ribbon cable - so on the opposite side of the above is this:-
Thus we can see that sliding the keyboard across the sensor operates a switch built into thye keyboard ribbon cable.
Now, I'm not sure exactly where you located the magnet, but is it possible that it has come loose and is no longer in the correct position.
Check ribbon cables for a switch.
I will dismantle and take pics to show all this, but unfortunately the coming week is a bit hectic so next weekend may be the first opportunity - you may beat me to it!!
Mike
Update (for Kaiser): The receiver switch is very close to the "A" key on the hardware keyboard. In fact to check the switch open the slide out keyboard and pass a magnet near the "A" key should change the orientation from lanscape to portrait.
If it does not you have a switch problem. If it does then your magnet is not positioned correctly.

Update: Kaiser specific.
The receiver switch is very close to the "A" key on the hardware keyboard. In fact to check the switch open the slide out keyboard and pass a magnet near the "A" key should change the orientation from lanscape to portrait.
If it does not you have a switch problem. If it does then your magnet is not positioned correctly.
Mike

Excellent Mike. Thanks so much.
Now it makes a huge amount of sense, but please don't dismantle your tytn II for my sake in case you encounter more unecessary problems. I know exactly what I'm looking for now from your pictures of the Tytn/Hermes. In fact, I've already seen it, I just didn't know what it was before. It is located right at the very bottom of the keyboard attached to the end of a ribbon. I know the magnet I found is definitely in the right place as I didn't even notice it before KD8DNS mentioned the magnet mechanism and it is fixed in place.
To help others who may encounter this, I will upload a pic of the switch and magnet ASAP. I'm using Vista on a laptop at the moment which I don't connect my device to so I'll do that on my XP desktop when I can. I will also post my findings as and when (or if!).
Thanks a buch mikechannon! Just what I was after.
EDIT>> Also thanks to KD8DNS! (almost forgot)

Well, having taken the whole thing apart and locating the orientation switch and magnet, I STILL cannot get it to orientate accordingly. Having had so much hope, I am now at a loss, short of buying a new untouched housing to see if it works. The switch seems to be in the right place, as does the magnet. I'm stuck again after so much hope.

matmaneyre said:
Well, having taken the whole thing apart and locating the orientation switch and magnet, I STILL cannot get it to orientate accordingly. Having had so much hope, I am now at a loss, short of buying a new untouched housing to see if it works. The switch seems to be in the right place, as does the magnet. I'm stuck again after so much hope.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could be wrong but I have the feeling this is not something major. If you open the keyboard and pass a magnet around the "A" key - does it rotate the screen?
Mike

I appreciate your enthusiasm, Mike, but it is impossibe to 'open up' the keyboard without disconnecting the battery, as the frame around the keyboard also holds the battey in.
I was right though..you were the best person to ask!
I will see what I can do (i.e holding the battery on manually while tesing the switch, although this is a little awkward). If this doesn't work, I would say both of the switches that I have available to test with are faulty. How likely is that?

Well after all that it was all in vain...while trying to fix my kaiser I dropped it, smashing the screen 2 smitherines. As a result, the touch screen doesn't work, the memory card isn't recognised & it won't charge or sync. I had all the case off at the time so the impact between the components & the floor was brutal. Not 2 worry tho, as the missus insisted I buy a new one, so,with permission, I've just ordered a Touch Pro. Better not tell her how much it cost eh?
Thanks to mikechannon in particular & all other people who had an input on this. I never managed 2 solve it but I'm sure if I'd had more time I'd have cracked it in the end (& I don't mean the LCD, I managed that!)
So this is goodbye from me to the Kaiser forum. Just gotta wait for a Touch Pro one now!!!
Thanks 2 all again.
Matmaneyre
HTC Kaiser 28/01/08 - 09/07/08 - R.I.P.

Fix for Failing / Nonworking Keys - Tilt (HW)

I was looking this morning for a solution for those keys that would require a higher level of pressure in order for them to work (Hardware issue, not ROM-related), and all of them will point me to buy a new keyboard.
So after reading numerous threads I read this phrase "use it or lose it", and it gave me an idea... I decided to EXTRA-USE IT lol
Try this:
- open word or one-note or w/e and start pressing the key LIKE HELL (probably some dozen times), pretty fast, not so hard, repeatedly and without harming the phone (make sure you feel its reaching the "end").
- then press the key and move it in circles, like if you were rubbing it against the KB contacts.
If it works for you, you will see the results right away in the screen.
Ive tried this on two Tilts already and seems to work. I don't know if its a temporary fix or if its definite, I just know for sure it works in my case
My wild guess is that by doing this you clean the contacts of the aluminum pads, making them work properly. I live in a very humid country (about 90% RH) and next to the ocean, so I guess this would contribute more to the development of this failure.
*NOTE: Please if you have spilled anything over your phone, don't expect this to work as good as if u haven't

I had problems with my U and C key which it was a pain when entering a number u know U is 2 and well it made the whole experience longer and frustrating. after doing this trick (using a chopstick) my c and u keys work perfect... Now I can resume my mobile life... good luck to anyone else! and thanks Candanga!

Thanks for the trick! I'm going to try it if I have problems.

good fix man....i've got it to work with all of my keys EXCEPT for the down arrow/PgDn button....but i had been having problems with my u, p, i, s, and v keys, and using ur "fix" they work like new again.....
living in Louisiana, its probably also the humidity affecting my keys....thanks!

Good method -- thought I wander how long it will last
If your phone is out-of-warranty, and your feel adventurous (and want to run the risk of damaging the phone) you might consider taking the keyboard apart and carefully cleaning with some diluted isopropyl alcohol. This would likely give you a long-lasting result, though of course you risk damaging the phone, yada yada.
Another thing to consider is my patented what-the-hell-it-might-work method. WARNING I have not tried this on a Kaiser, it is based on something I did with an older device with a keyboard. (NEC MobilePro 780)
AS USUAL, DO AT YOUR OWN RISK
Turn the phone off by holding down the power button. remove the battery, sim card, storage card, etc. Put some DILUTED isopropyl alcohol in a small spray bottle, then spray it onto the keyboard. (I'd protect the screen and the rest of the phone as much as possible.) Let the alcohol pool up and get into the cracks of the keyboard. Wipe away the excess with a paper towel, then proceed to work each key much as described in previous post.
When you've had it, just let the phone sit for at least 24 hours so the alcohol evaporates completely. Replace the battery etc and see if it will start up, then test the keyboard
WARNING, the alcohol may damage the electronics, mar the finish of the plastic, etc. USE the 70% stuff, NOT the 90%

+1! Good advice. Worked for me.

it really works on my Australian TYTN II

bennyzhou said:
it really works on my Australian TYTN II
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Confirmed on my Tilt I got from a San Francisco ATT store. Jeez. Nice.
I have always hated my G key. I use it plenty, but not often like an a or an e key, often enough that it's always on my mind, the anger that I will have to hit that stupid g key harder because it thinks it's special
No more. It works great. It's not special. I still hate it though, simply because I've always hated it.
Boycott G

Works great, thanks Candanga! My "s" key was not working unless I pressed it with force, now with your simple fix it's back to normal again.
PS. I too live in a humid environment.

Cleaning Keyboard on Kaiser
Well, this is my first post and hopes this help to the community that has problems while using the Keyboard.
This is my story. I bought a Tilt on ebay and after trying using it some keys did not work correctly. In order to use the keyboard I use a combination of the on screen keyboard and the keyboard. Then I ask myself, why am I doing this? Why am I needed to use a combination of the keyboard?
Time ago I work in a company that assembly Cellular, so I know the process and when a problem with the keyboard happen most of the time was because dust or fingerprint on the contacts while trying to assemble it.
What I did to solve the problem on my Kaiser was to do a deep clean of the keyboard. I follow the instruction of how to disassembly the phone [/URL]in order to take out the keyboard. Then I put the keyboard in an ultrasonic cleaner with alcohol for 10min. After that I reassembly the phone and try. But guess what, the keyboard gets worst, before that, there were a couple of keys that did not works but after clean it or try to clean it there were like 10 keys that did not work. Oh... dam it.
It could not be like this. I decide to give it a second chance to fix it but I did it in a different way.
The first thing I did was to remove the keypad. It was not so hard because the gum was kind of weak because the alcohol I use with the ultrasonic.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Second, I removed the contact pad with small tweezers being careful to not damage the contact pads.
After letting naked the keyboard I realized that the gum used to stick the contact pads were spread on the flex board and that was the reason of the hard keys or problematic keys.
Third, What I did was to clean the flex board and the contact pad perfectly with alcohol and swaps being careful of clean each contact.
Then I stick the contact pads again to the flex board and checking that it was aligned perfectly.
And last, Stick the keyboard.
Since 4 weeks I have been using the keyboard without problems.
My experience is that was not needed to disassemble the phone, just only disassembly the keyboard and clean the contacts.

Candanga said:
I was looking this morning for a solution for those keys that would require a higher level of pressure in order for them to work (Hardware issue, not ROM-related), and all of them will point me to buy a new keyboard.
So after reading numerous threads I read this phrase "use it or lose it", and it gave me an idea... I decided to EXTRA-USE IT lol
Try this:
- open word or one-note or w/e and start pressing the key LIKE HELL (probably some dozen times), pretty fast, not so hard, repeatedly and without harming the phone (make sure you feel its reaching the "end").
- then press the key and move it in circles, like if you were rubbing it against the KB contacts.
If it works for you, you will see the results right away in the screen.
Ive tried this on two Tilts already and seems to work. I don't know if its a temporary fix or if its definite, I just know for sure it works in my case
My wild guess is that by doing this you clean the contacts of the aluminum pads, making them work properly. I live in a very humid country (about 90% RH) and next to the ocean, so I guess this would contribute more to the development of this failure.
*NOTE: Please if you have spilled anything over your phone, don't expect this to work as good as if u haven't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
worked for me

Maddening key press method works
My down arrow was not working. Searching on the web, I got a link for this and I pressed the keys two dozen times before it worked! Thanks!

totally works as advertised!
I used the eraser-end of a pencil to do the pushing, and the results are fantastic!

Proximity Sensor - Always Near (Screen coming unglued?) Blank screen in calls

Got my Nexus 6 in Dec '14, and have taken pretty good care of it. Hardly ever dropped, pretty much always in a protective case (but never used a screen protector and my screen isn't scratched or damaged)...
But just started having issue where when making phone call, the screen goes off, and couldn't get it back on.
After some searching, found the issue is the same as shown on this Youtube video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sguXflichEo
The screen/glass is coming up (raised) around the perimeter of the phone, esp in the top left corner (where proximity sensor is) and bottom right corner.
A sensor app (didn't use the same one as on the video but similar app called 'Sensors Test') shows proximity always at NEAR. If I press down on the glass/screen near the edge, can get it to change to FAR. Takes a decent amount of pressure. So, I can get the screen to come on during a call by doing that (and I guess could then switch to speakerphone, if I need to use screen for things like DTMF tones, etc)
Tried looking for how I can fix this and didn't really find anything. Anyone know how to get the screen back where it belongs? Was it glued at factory?

Hi... Check this thread:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6/development/mod-fix-proximity-sensor-5-1-rom-t3069031
It could be a different issue though...

5.1 said:
Hi... Check this thread:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6/development/mod-fix-proximity-sensor-5-1-rom-t3069031
It could be a different issue though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw that thread (and lots of posts in a thread on the Google Product Support Forum) about the issue of screen protector interfering with the proximity sensor - but that is not my problem.
The proximity sensor works - it's the physical 'warping' of the screen coming up/apart from the rest of the phone. It's not a lot - casual looking at the phone you wouldn't notice - but on close inspection it is very noticeable.

My Fix (not sure for how long)...
I really wanted a solution without a disassembly of the phone (I'm pretty sure there's some glue or adhesive involved in keeping the screen assembly where it's supposed to be - as I examined my phone more closely, I could see remnant of it I think)... Just as I could press down on the screen and move it a few mm down where it should be, I could use fingernail and increase the gap. So, I decided to try something a bit risky : Gorilla Glue! (GG) I've used GG on lots of things, and enough to know not only is the stuff pretty incredible, but that it expands. Also it requires a bit of moisture in initial application.
So, using a moist paper towel, I put a very little bit of GG (drops), and then using fingernail, increased the gap enough to get just a tiny amount of GG at the left top corner of the screen, and then used a plastic spring-loaded clamp to keep the screen in place for 12+ hours. Also carefully wiped whatever trace of GG I could find immediately after putting the clamp on.
The result when turning phone back on: Proximity sensor correctly distinguishing between near and far - in other words - it works! Don't know how long this will last. And the glue/screen is still coming up in other areas that I did not try to fix...
Here's a photo of the opposite corner of the phone where you can see the screen coming up:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
and the clamp I used for the glue fix (it's tricky using a clamp with the curved back on the phone - had to place it nearer the center/speaker area)

I must say WoW... Checking my N6 right now and can't see such gaps... Is the corner showing on the pic scratched? Could this problem be the result of some drop(s).
Glad you got it working now anyway. Good job..! :good:

5.1 said:
I must say WoW... Checking my N6 right now and can't see such gaps... Is the corner showing on the pic scratched? Could this problem be the result of some drop(s).
Glad you got it working now anyway. Good job..! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, there's no scratch - the phone really is good condition (I used a cam to take that shot in macro mode so I think there is some out-of-focus/reflection).
In searching about this, it seems that original manufacture of phone used adhesive on the screen/digitizer and others have had this problem. I'd imagine the environment the phone is in can contribute.
And also, possibly, for me - the case I was using might have contributed - this Moku multi-part case has a hard plastic that grips the phone at the 4 corners and is not easy to remove. Now that I know, I'm going to use much more care when removing this. (Also, was using a magnetic card mount and had the metal disc between the phone and the silicone case and had to remove the outer hard plastic to use in the car. Recently changed that to putting the disc on the outside so longer have to remove it so frequently - only if I want to change sim card...)
https://www.amazon.com/Nexus-Case-Absorption-Scratchproof-Protective/dp/B00E4RV8DS/ref=sr_1_4?

P9 was under water for 5 seconds, since then - it does not charge

Hi Guys
Sad situation (as my P9 was always kept in a case and after almost a year still looks like new/mint condition) where I have dropped my phone to a bath, and phone went under the water for around 2-3 seconds (was still in protective case).
It has received some water through jack (headphones) socket, charging port and through the speaker crate.
As soon as I have rescued it, I have took all the water off the phone using towel and placed it quickly on a radiator/heater.
Unfortunately, did no have any rice to put the phone into a bowl of rice (don't even know if that is the best way).
Phone did act like it's absolutely fine, had some notifications that headphones are connected, but I remember when once I spilled some water on my desk and had one of the work iPhones on this desk, it was having same/similar issue for couple of hours (as water did come in contact with headphones port), but the problem did resolve itself after some time.
Same happened with Huawei P9. The headphones port has started to work after some time without any action taken from my side.
After that, I did have a situation where my P9 dropped on the floor and it has received some scratches (same day, an unlucky day).
Went home, connected phone to the charger and left it overnight.
In a morning found that it is only showing 40% (charging, but 40%).
On unplugging, it does stay on 40% for some time, it does not indicate any power loss after time (for example, if I will play a game or use camera). However, after for example hour, it does say that it has only 10% battery, on reboot it does say that it has 30% battery.
On next reboot it tells me that I have 10%. Always full numbers, like 10, 20 or 30 or even 40% but appearing randomly.
Now - after 2 days of being constantly on a cable (charger) it is constantly showing that it has 2% of battery.
On disconnecting, it goes off in 30 seconds.
On connecting, it does start up and it does show that it is charging, but it remains on 2%.
Anyway - I have already opened the phone and tried with replacing the charging port (board).
This did not resolve the issue.
On Saturday (in 2 days) I may receive a new (OEM) battery and I will see if this will resolve the problem.
But in the meantime, does anyone may have an idea where to look for or how to troubleshoot to find the cause of an issue?
Phone inside looks perfectly fine.

Honestly in such situation there is no simple solution. Its all about luck...
Water is really sneaky, and even such thing like putting phone on heater can actually damage it even more, because some people seriously put it on lava-hot places where water just vapor and enter even smaller spaces inside phone.
What I would do after few minutes of panic and few hours of swearing, is to dissemble it with the speed of light just to disconnect battery from mainboard. This is really important, and one of thing that I hate in phones today(you cant disconnect battery easily).
After that I would take paper towel and dry everything if I could not get my hands on rice. Then take super soft pain brush and scrub all spaces on boards and case inside, because for most of time water it self dont damage phone, but rust/calcium that settle between circuit paths. So its important to carefully brush every space blow it with compressed air.
Then its good to check if battery didnt get swollen and if all smaller lego-like connectors are clean inside(good magnifier is handy here).
But if after that phone work but dont charge its probably one of the charging component on board or usb socket it self is rusted. Problem is that in today phones those components are so fricking small that I sometimes cant distinguish resistor from capacitor or transistor...
And of course beside that its good to do full wipe, today phones are like magic box, no one really know what is going on because everyone have different problem with them, so maybe phone need to wipe its battery informations/stats to fix it self...
I cant really thing about anything else, because you cant do much more by your self in home, Phones are not designed to be easy to fix. And sometimes its eve cheaper to buy new phone instead(eg. Huawei P10 is now available for damn 420Euro... when P9 is still 350...)

Battery did arrive today. I will see if this will resolve the issue.
Once I will replace and test it - I will update this thread.

I can confirm that replacing battery did resolve the problem. Phone is charging again.
Last thing I have to fix now is the rear camera as it does not focus correctly.
Don't know if that is because of my disassembly and assembly or by the water damage.

Update: Still haven't found why the colour camera does not autofocus.
Strangely, if I will take off the back cover (plate), the autofocus is fully working, but as soon as I will clip it back on and the phone will be "fully assembled" - it does not autofocus. Still trying to understand what is causing the issue. Black and white / monochrome works absolutely fine.
I will open the phone today or tomorrow again and see if I can spot the (probably obvious) reason of the issue.
I do remember that autofocus did work fine before opening the phone (so before replacing the battery) so most likely I have not attached something correctly or something is misaligned (however I have checked it twice and all looks perfect).
I do have an option to send phone for the repair to Huawei, but I do feel that they will cancel the warranty anyway. Luckily the camera module on eBay does not cost a lot, so maybe I will just replace it by myself if I won't find solution today or if Huawei won't fix the problem.

And another update.
Still can't confirm 100% sure about the camera problem.
I have disassembled it, assembled it back all together.
Found that I have scratched (at the first time when I was replacing the battery) the gold foil on a side which is touching the small connector on the right hand side of the camera.
After assembling carefully all together, it does look like camera is alive and it does autofocus almost 100% perfectly.
There is however this missing 1% when it does kind of rattling movement at the end of auto focusing, and can't find out if it is because it still slightly misaligned, or is it because the golden foil is slightly damaged (on a side of the camera module).
I am thinking about getting a new camera module but first I would have to understand how to assemble it in such a way, that it will just fit it without scratching the side of the camera module (it is tricky to do this).
Anyway - the camera is almost working. If I will decide to make it work absolutely ideal - I would probably have to learn how to assemble it properly.
P.S. And just to explain to everyone, I am watching YouTube videos and learning from those.
I guess I have damaged the camera module when I was replacing the battery due to lack of understanding how it is assembled in the first place.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

That's weird, the rear dual camera is detachable but is not removed in that guide, there is a metal cover if you didn't know already that just pops off then you can unplug the camera.

Yeah. I was following a different guide and I did took it off (completely) off the main board.
The problem is the small metal "clip" on the right hand side which links to the metal screw-able cover.
Visible here:
https://youtu.be/TM6t_iAce-Y?t=3m26s
(3:26)
That little thing did mess up the golden side of the camera module which looks like foil.
Now I am struggling to place it all together in place perfectly aligned.
As mentioned - the camera works almost almost perfectly however after pay day I am about to order a full camera module to replace it.

Get a new camera module. They should be cheap from aliexpress.

I have seen plenty of the "OEM" ones but I am not 100% sure if those are "really" the same as original ones.
Payday is in 4-5 days, so I will just order a genuine one on ebay with delivery in several days, not in 3 weeks

edmun said:
I have seen plenty of the "OEM" ones but I am not 100% sure if those are "really" the same as original ones.
Payday is in 4-5 days, so I will just order a genuine one on ebay with delivery in several days, not in 3 weeks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are Very Talented And Enthusiastic Person :good:
Good Luck

Ok. An update.
I do have an original new Huawei P9 Camera module, but.....
Before I have attempted to place it in, I was trying to find out how to properly assembly it so I have done several dry runs on the current camera module.
So instead of trying to put the new one in place and damage(?) it by a mistake, I have decided I will try on the one which is already in my smartphone.
And I will say this way - my camera is fully working. Including Autofocus on colour camera and on black and white one.
It was (as I suspected) a basic mistake during the assembly, where I was constantly doing things wrong
For anyone which would be trying to do the same.
If you have (accidentally) disassemble the board with camera module and now the autofocus does not work as expected, make sure that you will assemble it following steps below:
1) With metal cover taken off, attach cameras tape to the board
2) Leave the camera module away from the board
3) Screw in the metal plate (two screws) which holds the camera tape
4) Once the plate is in place, clip in the camera module into the designated hole/place
My mistake was, that I was constantly trying to place the camera in the designated camera place before screwing in the metal plate which is above the cameras tape.
Now I have a spare original camera module I will keep testing my phone but after a week after the final repair, I don't see any issues at all.

My Huawei P20 Lite does not charge after 5 min in water
Hi Edmun
Did you find any solution to your troubles?
I have the same troubles with my Huawei P20 Lite. I was swimming with it for 5 min (Yes, really stupid!) and now it wont charge. I turned it off immediately, and I dried it for 4 days in 35* C with the back plate removed, and it now works fine as long as the charger is connected. However the battery level went from 90% to 2% in a few days, and now it remains there no matter how long time I charge it. It turned into a wired phone! Why doesn't it take charge when everything else works? What can I do to solve it? Obviously the current goes in through the socket as it works when connected, and it makes the usual beep at the moment of connection. I have cleaned the female socket on the phone with a fine brush and inspected it with a loupe and it looks perfectly OK. What can I do to fix it? Should I get a nwe circuit bord, and in that case wihch one? Or should I try a new battery?
Please, help me! I bought the phone just a month ago! Many thanks for any hints on solutions.
/Nils

Replacing battery worked.
had exactly the same situation.
Can't promise it will fix your issue but it worked for me. Replacing is tricky because of the glue underneath the battery but if you ever fixed any smartphones then you should be fine

Brother....I am right now in same situation...can you tell that the cell phone work ???
My cell phone had the same situation and its shows only 2% and switch off in 30 sec... Pls update....

N910T won't fix on satellites, even though it can see them.

Hey guys, I'm pulling my hairs out on this problem I am getting with my note 4.
Long story short - I cannot get a GPS fix (to even a single sat) with my N910T.
The longer version:
This thing had a cracked screen - but worked great before that (no GPS problems) and I used it a good year before breaking it. So I bought a N910A (ATT) note 4 to use the screen to fix my trusty note.
I gutted both phones, and put my N910T motherboard in the N910A's frame, with the screen still attached to the frame. I kept the N910A's USB daughterboard (with the charging port) because in the research I did, it seemed basically identical to the one from my broken screen frame, and I knew it would be tricky to get that out and into the new one without busting the new glass or destroying the flex cables.
So after some trouble with the S pen not working initially (the cable didn't press in fully, had to stick paper behind the flex cable and it went in properly) I was able to get the phone up and running again, and all features seemed to work great again.
However - I noticed after a couple days that the GPS was super spotty, so bad it was mostly unusable. I noticed that AGPS was on and it was using wifi and mobile data to help get a fix, so I turned it to GPS only mode. In GPS only mode the phone gets not signal whatsoever, no matter where I am.
I tried the simple fixes many recommend online, one which is to try tightening the screws a bit, and in fact, as this process continued I opened and closed up the phone several times, making sure to carefully but tightly screw all the screws back into place. That didn't help. I also tried making sure the compass calibration was good - and it made no difference. And I even factory reset to make sure there were no issues with installed apps or anything like that.
I got to thinking, perhaps its a issue with the small bendable pins that press from the motherboard into the mid-frame not making good contact, so I tore the phone down a couple more times, slightly bent out - very carefully - all the pins that press into the mid-frame to make them all have a solid contact, and even tried to get any corrosion or debris from the pads on the mid-frame. I even made sure there was contact for those little ones alone the sides of the phone which seem to have something to do with the buttons rather than what I'm dealing with.
Still no luck, so I tried doing a NV rebuild, which I read might solve getting 0 sat fixes, and discovered my phone wouldn't let me into that menu of the service options, so I had to install root and then do it through shortcut master instead. Once I finally was able to get to the menu and run the NV rebuild.... nothing changed.
So I am fresh outta ideas, and I'm thinking that A) that ATT USB daughterboard actually plays a part in GPS somehow and I need to take my TMO one out of the old phone and put it in the new frame and screen.... or B) Something is damaged on my motherboard.... or C) Somebody out there has a better solution
Any ideas, experiences of what worked are all appreciated!

BUMP --------
Still having this issue. Tried opening it up, and realllllly making sure those antenna springs are making contact, and I made sure the contacts on the mid frame are clean.
I tried TopNTP and that made no difference. Here is an image of whats going on when I run GPS Test:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Bump?
Losing hope for my old phone here

Anybody happen to know if the daughter board that has the USB charging port plays any role in gps?