Replace USB PCB board? - Galaxy Tab S2 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

I have a broken USB port and looking to open this up and replace, but haven't seen anything posted. I found this, so if this will work...the heating up bit I haven't' done before to remove a back cover, but if lieu of a repair not sure how useful the tablet is
Anyone replace this part before?
Thanks!
NitDawg

It looks like it's modular - probably pretty simple to fit.
But remember - the Tab is plastic welded shut and you need to heat it up to separate the halves.
Depending on whether Murphy's Law visit you a lot (as it does me), you might be better of sending it in for repairs.

nitdawg said:
I have a broken USB port and looking to open this up and replace, but haven't seen anything posted. I found this, so if this will work...the heating up bit I haven't' done before to remove a back cover, but if lieu of a repair not sure how useful the tablet is
Anyone replace this part before?
Thanks!
NitDawg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've read about many different ways of heating to open the tablet. A simple solution that worked well for me, was using a plain old steam iron, a single edge razor blade of the type used in box openers and an exacto knife. Be careful not to cut the LCD ribbon cable on the bottom edge of the tablet. It starts about 3" in from the Samson logo side of the tablet.

Thanks all! Yeah, I've opened up a few others before, but not one with heat. Using a place close by in the Raleigh area, they were willing to do it for $70 including the part...so well-worth it to me.
Thanks again!

Worth the price is they do it right, seal it up again, guarantee the work...

So after 2 different repair shops and half a year later, I was able to get this replaced. The first place held it for a month waiting for the part and eventually said it was not going to come in (strange). I let it sit for a while and then hit up another repair store...they said they can get the part. Was read the riot act on the risk, etc...but it was worthless at this point, so why not. They were able to do and all appears fine.
However, I wanted to transfer some files in prep for maybe a newer ROM when I noticed the replacement port does not allow any data transfer. I have another T810, so I know its not the various cables I tried. So that part is a bummer, but at least it charges...not sure why data transfer does not work, but I'm taking it!

Related

[HARDWARE] Dinc Seamless Wireless Charger stock battery (NO USB STICKING OUT)

>>>>>><<<<<< PDF With All Steps And Images Added For Your Viewing/Downloading Pleasure >>>>>><<<<<<
***If this does not belong here I appologize, and feel free to move this if necessary. I just figured the development community is most likely to take this "upgrade" on***
After seeing that someone used Palm's wireless charger on their non-palm phone; I decided to put one on my Droid Incredible.
***This was done to a completely stock Dinc. I did not use any special back, and the stock back gets to stay on (unlike in the other video that I saw)
Wireless Charging the Droid Incredible
**Disclaimer: This will void your warranty, and if you solder something wrong will probably break your phone. With that said I can in no way be held accountable for anything that occurs while performing this “upgrade” to your phone.
>>>>If anyone knows where I can buy that little void sticker that you will see in a picture below, please let me know! If we can get that sticker then our warranty is not voided by doing this.
Supplies:
1.Palm touchstone charger http://www.shopping.hp.com/product/handheld/categories/palm/4/accessories/FB300AA%23AC3
2.Palm touchstone phone back http://www.shopping.hp.com/store/product/product_detail/FB306AA%23AC3?
3.Micro USB cable
4.Soldering Iron (the finer the tip on this the better)
5.Torx T6 screw driver
6.Safe pry tool (or a small flat head screwdriver)
7.Very tiny insulated wires (I just pulled mine out of a USB cable that I cut up)
8.Electrical Tape
9.[Optional] Multimeter to test that you actually made a good connection
How To (Images are of a higher quality (12mp) so I had to stick them in zip files to get them on here):
1.The palm touchstone phone back has a sticker inside of it that encases the wireless charging receiver, so you need to peel this off. Once it is peeled off it will look like this (without the wires soldered onto it):
(Images can be seen in: Palm Receiver.7z)
2.Remove the battery cover and the battery then unscrew the back from your phone (please view a tare down video for details, there are plenty of them on you tube that I used for a reference.)
1.All you need is a torx t6 screwdriver and a safe pry tool, I used a small flat head screwdriver and it worked just fine. Unscrew the 4 screws around the sides and then carefully pry off every place that the battery cover clips on, as they also hold on the red back.
(Images can be seen in: Dinc Inside.7z)
3.Solder on some wires to the USB connector as shown in the below image without soldering onto the pins next to them. This is difficult and takes some time and patience, since these connectors are very small and close (note the polarity in the image, notated in red).
A.Also it is necessary to place a piece of electrical tape over the components right next to the connector (Green box in the image) as they will short out the power and make it impossible to charge your phone if you do not (I found that out the hard way and went back and fixed it).
B.One final note here is that I had to melt down the red phone backing inside to allow the cables to get past the case. See the green rectangle in the image above for where I had to do that. I just used my soldering iron and melted it down, it makes a pretty nice indention for the wires to fit through.
(Images can be seen in: Dinc USB.7z)
4.Now push out the rubber plug in the red phone backing next to the USB cover (this is encircled in Green in the image from step 2).
A.Run the cables that you just solder on through that so that they are sticking through to the battery compartment on your phone.
B.You can also stick on the palm receiver to the inside of your phone cover (note the direction and placement, as this is necessary to close your cover).
3.Note that I placed electrical tape over the wires. This was necessary to keep them from breaking off of the USB connector since the solder points are so small.
(Images can be seen in: Almost Done.7z)
5.Solder on the wires to the palm charger receiver and you are done. Now you just need to carefully place the wires towards the middle of the phone so that you can close the back of your phone entirely (this is another reason why the wires need to be small).
A.Note the polarity of the connection.
B.Also I put a piece of electrical tape over the connections on the palm charger receiver to protect them (not shown in the image).
(Images can be seen in: Wireless Charger.7z)
Here is a video of the end product and how it works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOMVJ-vmWpg
Also I just verified that my compass is working without any problems.
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
ThugEsquire said:
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its been done with the Evo, but don't know anyone who did it with the Inc.
http://www.goodandevo.net/2010/06/h...rk-with-palm-touchstone-wireless-charger.html
Sounds really nice. Not gonna try it with mine because I'm too scared
Though shouldn't this be in accessories or general?
What are you doing to align the coils? My biggest concern that's kept me from this is the magnets also would mess up the compass sensors readings which I for one actually value.
Wow, you managed to bring me out of my months of silence in posting...
I feel honored that I can get you out of your months of silence
The coil alignment is handled by the magnets inside of the palm touchstone charger itself (the base unit that plugs into the wall). The metal objects that you can see in the "Palm Receiver.7z" file are actually not magnets, but small circular pieces of metal that get pulled towards the charger base when you get them close to each other. So when you have the phone off of the charger, there are no magnets to mess with anything
Also you will notice that there is a piece of metal behind the coil, and that seems to block the inductive signal all together (because I tried to put it on backwards to no avail). Therefore your phone is mostly protected from the inductive transmission.
The only thing that I noticed, is that the touchscreen on the phone is a little weird when it is on the charger, but I see the same side effects when plugging the phone into a "non-htc" charger (before performing this "upgrade"). **I also saw this on my Moto Droid when connecting it to a 1 amp charger, and I have seen this with multiple other touchscreen devices so I think it just has something to do with the frequency of the charger.
Also in case of any concerns: MY PHONE HAS IN NO WAY BEEN DAMAGED BY THIS "UPGRADE"
pianoplayer said:
Sounds really nice. Not gonna try it with mine because I'm too scared
Though shouldn't this be in accessories or general?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah, it probably should be, and may get moved (which is perfectly fine by me). I put it in here because I am a developer and much more likely to do this, so I figured the development community would be more interested.
ThugEsquire said:
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mentioned that you can't wait to see more....?
What more would you like to see? I am happy to add to the posts, but just not sure what further details you would like to see.
nevetsvsx said:
Also in case of any concerns: MY PHONE HAS IN NO WAY BEEN DAMAGED BY THIS "UPGRADE"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I trust your method, I just don't trust my shaky hands
BTW there is a multi quote button so you dont have to do a separate post for each reply
I have a rubber case on my Dinc... would I need to remove it for charging?
___________________________________
Yup.... The ones yoe momma told ya about.... Bad Seed Customs!!
I think you will be ok if it is one of those thin (about 1mm thick) rubber cases. Anything thicker than that and you would probably have to install the wireless receiver on the case itself and remove your battery cover all together.
I tested a thin rubber case that I have (no more than 1mm thick I think) that fits a Droid Eris and it charges as long as its flush to the back of my phone.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Wow, this is amazing, very well done. I think this is the first hard mod I've heard of for an Android. I guess gold cards were a sorta gray area.
I've had my Incredible modded to work with a Touchstone since around June of last year. It works great, but I must caution anyone thinking of doing this to be VERY careful. Experience with soldering and a steady hand is a must. One could fairly easily mess up their phone attempting to do this.
Could you do this with a powermat if you wanted to? I have a few laying around I could use.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Paul600k5 said:
Could you do this with a powermat if you wanted to? I have a few laying around I could use.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, if you wanna take apart one of those generic receivers and try to fit it inside your phone!
nevetsvsx said:
You mentioned that you can't wait to see more....?
What more would you like to see? I am happy to add to the posts, but just not sure what further details you would like to see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I originally meant was pictures. But now that you've added them and I've seen the glory, this mod is really quite impressive and I'm thrilled you shared it with us. But now that I think about it, could this also do USB wirelessly? That would be pretty amazing.
ThugEsquire said:
What I originally meant was pictures. But now that you've added them and I've seen the glory, this mod is really quite impressive and I'm thrilled you shared it with us. But now that I think about it, could this also do USB wirelessly? That would be pretty amazing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the transmission of data wirelessly is achieved through modulated EM waves. This is simple inductance: a changing electric field creates a magnetic field, a changing magnetic field generates an electric field, so a current carrying loop placed near another loop of wire will induce current in the other loop. The receiver in the phone is engineered to "create" the "proper" amount current to charge your battery when combined with the base. In theory yes, but not with this equipment.
How does the phone treat a USB cable being plugged in - will it charge ok, and have your data transfer rates been adversely effected? I wouldn't think so, since you're only touching the power...
Mr. Spontaneous said:
How does the phone treat a USB cable being plugged in - will it charge ok, and have your data transfer rates been adversely effected? I wouldn't think so, since you're only touching the power...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used the USB charger and data transfer cables without any problems at all. Also I have copied some files off of my phone to my PC since the "upgrade" and did not notice any extended times or anything that would remotely make me think something was wrong.
I did not run a speed test before and after to see if anything slowed down, but as you said we are only touching the power pins, so I highly doubt anything has changed.

[Q] GPS hardware gone bad on HD2

Hi all,
My HD2 running HyperDroid v12 from Pongster is a dream phone. Everything is working excellent except recently I got the digitizer changed from a local shop here in LA and in the process of fixing the digitizer the idiot seems to have ruined my GPS related hardware (which obviously he is not owning up to). I tried all sorts of software remedies (including changing ROMS) but nothing seems to get a GPS lock.
My questions is -
Is there any way to buy and replace the GPS receiver in the phone?
Thanks
The guy might have accidentally removed the connection from the circuit board, I remember seeing threads from before of other's doing the same thing when fixing the digitizer.
Moon2 said:
The guy might have accidentally removed the connection from the circuit board, I remember seeing threads from before of other's doing the same thing when fixing the digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Moon
Any recommendations on what tools to buy to open my HD2? Any schematics on what the gps antenna would look like? Coudnt find similar threads for HD2...
Here's links to official disassembly & assembly videos:
Disassembly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4&feature=player_embedded
Assembly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
__________________________________________________________________
They tell you what you need, and instead of the "flat plastic stick", a guitar pick should be fine.
- No need to remove speaker from housing.
- Ignore everything from 1:47, and look at 3:22 from the disassembly video, instead of removing the gps coaxial cable, check if it's actually connected properly, if not, just push it in.
_______________________________________________________________
I'll try and find those threads I remember reading, in which the OP and other members had the same problem after replacement of digitizer.
Moon2 said:
Here's links to official disassembly & assembly videos:
Disassembly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4&feature=player_embedded
Assembly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
__________________________________________________________________
They tell you what you need, and instead of the "flat plastic stick", a guitar pick should be fine.
- No need to remove speaker from housing.
- Ignore everything from 1:47, and look at 3:22 from the disassembly video, instead of removing the gps coaxial cable, check if it's actually connected properly, if not, just push it in.
_______________________________________________________________
I'll try and find those threads I remember reading, in which the OP and other members had the same problem after replacement of digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks so much bro... Greatly appreciate your help!
Moon2 said:
Here's links to official disassembly & assembly videos:
Disassembly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL-jnUKufC4&feature=player_embedded
Assembly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8Q7mXdcJ54&feature=player_embedded
__________________________________________________________________
They tell you what you need, and instead of the "flat plastic stick", a guitar pick should be fine.
- No need to remove speaker from housing.
- Ignore everything from 1:47, and look at 3:22 from the disassembly video, instead of removing the gps coaxial cable, check if it's actually connected properly, if not, just push it in.
_______________________________________________________________
I'll try and find those threads I remember reading, in which the OP and other members had the same problem after replacement of digitizer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Moon,
I followed the steps in the videos you provided and opened my HD2. The GPS coaxial cable seems to be fit in snug, which I guess is indicative that the GPS antenna itself may have gone bad somehow. Possible?
I did a little searching and found this link where I can buy an antenna from -
http://www.gsm4world.us/oem-htc-hd2-t8585-gps-antenna-board-flex-ribbon-cable-d-03752_579.html
That said, I am not too comfortable trying to replace it by myself. Any chance anybody knows a person/shop in the LA area who may have expertise in such jobs? The one I found in Glendale (CellularDR) is the reason this has happened so I'm not too keen on re-visiting them.
Thanks again for all the help!
Can't you get a separate external GPS receiver and bluetooth it?
It kinda beats the purpose of havnig a all in one device, plus you need to always watch 2 batteries and not just one . But, I must say it is the safe option and worth considering.
KT said:
Hi Moon,
I followed the steps in the videos you provided and opened my HD2. The GPS coaxial cable seems to be fit in snug, which I guess is indicative that the GPS antenna itself may have gone bad somehow. Possible?
I did a little searching and found this link where I can buy an antenna from -
http://www.gsm4world.us/oem-htc-hd2-t8585-gps-antenna-board-flex-ribbon-cable-d-03752_579.html
That said, I am not too comfortable trying to replace it by myself. Any chance anybody knows a person/shop in the LA area who may have expertise in such jobs? The one I found in Glendale (CellularDR) is the reason this has happened so I'm not too keen on re-visiting them.
Thanks again for all the help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi KT did you manage to solve the issue? i´m having the same problem and i´m thinking if you managed to solve the problem replacing the gps antenna..
thanks
New back housing w/antennas
I had to replace the back housing on my phone as it broke (it looked like the plastic had deteriorated), and the new one comes with all 3 antenna attached, and a new battery cover for less than US 20.00. I have better reception now on all 3 radios, and the phone looks new again. If your have to take it apart anyway, why not replace the whole back? I got it from these people, eBay item 350487086071, but there are tons out there, and it was dead simple. Unscrewed the four screws, used the plastic piece to pop the snaps, and that was it.
YMMV, but for only 20, you can rule out the antennas if nothing else.
mikeeed said:
I had to replace the back housing on my phone as it broke (it looked like the plastic had deteriorated), and the new one comes with all 3 antenna attached, and a new battery cover for less than US 20.00. I have better reception now on all 3 radios, and the phone looks new again. If your have to take it apart anyway, why not replace the whole back? I got it from these people, eBay item 350487086071, but there are tons out there, and it was dead simple. Unscrewed the four screws, used the plastic piece to pop the snaps, and that was it.
YMMV, but for only 20, you can rule out the antennas if nothing else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi mate, thank you so much for your reply, great tip, and good to know that is good quality product, and because I have a spare battery cover I bought only the chassis.. great price I will start from there.. thanks once again.
Sent from my HD2 using XDA App

Home made Stylus for Nook

I've been waiting for week to get my materials to make the home made stylus, finally the most important piece arrived. This took hours to get it to work right. It was a lot easier to get a working stylus for an iPod Touch, but after some tinkering, screaming, sweating and fails I got a pretty good working one. Check out my youtube video (sorry for the bad quality, did on a digital kodak camera very baaad):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujdsEt5zX8I
http://lifehacker.com/5836870/build...n-the-cheap-with-a-ballpoint-pen-and-a-sponge
Here one I read about, don't know if it would work or not though.
I just use a chop stick. Must be hundreds of them floating around my house of different styles, materials, points. Same at work just not so many. I hang on to one for a while, lose/misplace it and it'll take me a day or two to settle on another. No muss no fuss.
Quick question, can you please tell me where you got all the materials?
EverythingNook said:
Quick question, can you please tell me where you got all the materials?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The most important piece, the conductive foam, I got it from ebay. Just search conductive foam, I got a 4" x 4" still have more than half left. I'm thinking that the wire and metal casing are unnecessary, so any pen or pencil casing should do. What I have discovered so far is that the Nook stylus I made requires a large surface, like you see in the video. I wanted it to be really thin at the beginning that's why it didn't work, since the NC screen isn't as responsive as we would all want.
Anyways, the wire I used, I got it from an old coaxial cable (TV cable). Also, I got the idea from this video, which is a lot more instructive than mine...I just wanted to test it in the NC:
http://youtu.be/4YE8rGuLCtU
I think im going to try a sponge before i get conductive foam.
Very nice! Did you tried to slim the tip of conductive foam?
What is the notebook software are you using on the video?
Harlley Sathler said:
Very nice! Did you tried to slim the tip of conductive foam?
What is the notebook software are you using on the video?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At first I was trying to get the tip to be the thinnest possible, so it would mimic a ball point pen, but apparently the LCD in the NC need a bigger surface to respond to touches. I was able to get a thin version working on an iPod Touch 3G no problem. I'm going to try to make a new following the video that inspired me, I just need a more flexible wire to make it. Anyways, the app I used is called Handrite
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
Because of curiosity and creativity and inventively spirit?
These are what moves us, geeks, ahead. I did some styli myself and be proud of this.
Crwly said:
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of them dont work very well with the nook.
Crwly said:
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This experiment cost me less than 2 bucks, since I used everyday materials around the house. The only thing I had to buy was the foam, which I still have more than half left, maybe for making more or using them for other stuff like transporting cpus xD
Edit: Oh and you might find the foam in everyday electronics too, like HDD casings, tv remotes, etc. So you could get a working (proven to work on NC) stylus for free.
jgaf said:
This experiment cost me less than 2 bucks, since I used everyday materials around the house. The only thing I had to buy was the foam, which I still have more than half left, maybe for making more or using them for other stuff like transporting cpus xD
Edit: Oh and you might find the foam in everyday electronics too, like HDD casings, tv remotes, etc. So you could get a working (proven to work on NC) stylus for free.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where exactly in remotes, like where the battery goes?
EverythingNook said:
Where exactly in remotes, like where the battery goes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not quite sure I remember reading it somewhere. I have seen some in an external hdd casing, it helps to reduce static
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
mgs526 said:
http://lifehacker.com/5836870/build...n-the-cheap-with-a-ballpoint-pen-and-a-sponge
Here one I read about, don't know if it would work or not though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it works and it was really easy to make
Yesterday I had my Nook sitting open on my desk, and plugged in my phone.
The cord dragged over the screen of the Nook, and the keyboard happened to be open. Everywhere the cord touched it tapped a letter.
I tried it again with the cord plugged in to AC, but not the phone...and nothing.
Plugged the phone back in, and was able to tap keys again using the cord.
Maybe we could get a battery-operated stylus that just runs power down to the tip .
I'm thinking triple-a battery, small insulated wire down to, then acting as, the tip, and simply return up to the other end of the battery.
No clue if this would be bad for the screen or not, but as long as it's a low level of power, can't see why it would be.
We have some very creative people here who have the skills to not only make something like this happen, but regulate the flow of power through the wire from the battery.
My thought is that since the screen isn't so great for a stylus on the Nook, maybe enhancing the tapping power of the stylus would help.
For anyone who has no clue what they are doing but wants to try anyways, DO NOT use exposed wire, and in any event i'm not responsible for what happens with the use/misuse/abuse of this information.
Any thoughts on this?
ETA:
Maybe a small triple-a flashlight would make a good starting base for this project, a lot of them go real cheap anymore. Just do away with the light itself, and replace it with a wire. You get a switch already built in and all that way.
Blue6IX said:
Text...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was interesting, but I must ask, will a powered stylus perform any better than bought ones or homemade foam ones?
I tried it again with the cord plugged in to AC, but not the phone...and nothing.
Plugged the phone back in, and was able to tap keys again using the cord.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Without the phone, there is no current flow on the cable, and no magnetic field around it, and so, no capacitance distortion.
Harlley Sathler said:
Without the phone, there is no current flow on the cable, and no magnetic field around it, and so, no capacitance distortion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, this I didn't know until I found out by accident. I had always just assumed there was, but now know that unless something is drawing power it's in a static state.
GuTsaV said:
That was interesting, but I must ask, will a powered stylus perform any better than bought ones or homemade foam ones?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is the question that I posed. If no one else is curious enough to find out, i'll get around to this eventually.
I have a handful of pen-light flashlights floating around here, it would be a simple matter to replace the led with a wire and find out.
When I find time to solder one in i'll let you know how it goes. My job is taking up way more time then i'd like in my life at the moment, so who knows when that'll be.
Blue6IX said:
I have a handful of pen-light flashlights floating around here, it would be a simple matter to replace the led with a wire and find out.
When I find time to solder one in i'll let you know how it goes. My job is taking up way more time then i'd like in my life at the moment, so who knows when that'll be.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you replace the LED by a wire, you will get a short-circuit on the batteries, what means that even if it works as a stylus, you will get your batteries hot and discharged very quickly.
Not to say that is dangerous if the batteries get hot!
Another way would be apply the Ohm's Law and calculate a resistor to replace the LED, but I don't know if this idea (a powered stylus) would be an energy efficient circuit...

Fix Broken microUSB Port

So the microUSB port on my Captivate stopped working the other day (can't connect to pc or charge without applying significant pressure in a certain direction) and I'm thinking about fixing it my self.
I'm really just looking for some advice from people who have done this before. What kind of soldering gun should I get (or will the Radio Shack special work)? What kind of soldier should I use? And should I think about buying a new micoUSB port from one of these parts stores?
Thanks in advance!
I wouldn't fix it myself...there is more to it then you think
kusanagisan18 said:
So the microUSB port on my Captivate stopped working the other day (can't connect to pc or charge without applying significant pressure in a certain direction) and I'm thinking about fixing it my self.
I'm really just looking for some advice from people who have done this before. What kind of soldering gun should I get (or will the Radio Shack special work)? What kind of soldier should I use? And should I think about buying a new micoUSB port from one of these parts stores?
Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd stay away from radioshack soldering irons. I bought a cheap $30 Weller iron and it is way better. The repair is not horribly hard. The worst part is removing the bad one without lifting a pad. I lifted a pad on one I tried fixing and screwed up one of the pads and a tiny bit of the trace. Needless to say I could not fix the tiny damaged trace and sold it off for parts. But the new usb went on without a hitch with some good solder and some desoldering braid.
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
chrislj said:
I'd stay away from radioshack soldering irons. I bought a cheap $30 Weller iron and it is way better. The repair is not horribly hard. The worst part is removing the bad one without lifting a pad. I lifted a pad on one I tried fixing and screwed up one of the pads and a tiny bit of the trace. Needless to say I could not fix the tiny damaged trace and sold it off for parts. But the new usb went on without a hitch with some good solder and some desoldering braid.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think it's possible to fix it without replacing it? IE Just apply more solder or try to re-solder the current contacts?
connexion2005 said:
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll probably end up using your service if this is over my head, thanks for the link!
kusanagisan18 said:
Do you think it's possible to fix it without replacing it? IE Just apply more solder or try to re-solder the current contacts?
I'll probably end up using your service if this is over my head, thanks for the link!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's virtually NEVER the connection between the leg and pad that is the issue, but rather always the inner connector that touches with the pins on the USB cable itself. So basically no, re-flowing the legs to pads won't do anything. I always ohm through the leg to the pad before replacing them to check if it's an easy fix but that's never the case and the whole connector ends up being replaced...
Download Jig Works But Won't Charge/Connect USB
I think I am having the same problem. I can use a download jig that I got from MobleTech some time ago, but the USB will only connect if I fiddle with the connection and will drop out almost immediately. I first noticed it because the phone was not charging overnight. I was running teamhacksburg ICS and thought I had developed the charge bug, but appears that I might need a new USB connection. Have tried differn't computers with same results. Is it safe to say I need a new USB port for my Captivate or are there some other things I should check. Thanks for the help.
If it's finicky like that then yes almost certainly.
So how would you go about replacing your USB port on your Captivate? or is it not worth trying for most people? One of the pins on my port came loose and got smashed to the outside shell. In trying to bend it back, it broke of course. So now no Download mode from Jig and no computer recognition.
connexion2005 said:
I offer this repair as a service and for way cheaper than ruining your board...
PM Sent...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am having the same problem. Could I get a PM or a link to your repair?
YzRacer said:
I am having the same problem. Could I get a PM or a link to your repair?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could I also get the link?
sebastienhwb said:
Could I also get the link?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never got a PM but I followed the clues over to mobiletechvidoes. Once you add usb repair to your cart and check out you will receive an email about sending in the phone (after an hour or so) and I have just sent one in. It says send the phone without a battery or battery cover and I went ahead and wiped the phone just for safety.
Anyone ever find the link or know how much this costs?
in my sig if i remember correctly it is about $35
I paid $35 and it worked out well for me! Mobiletechvideos.com is where I signed up and they were fast and professional.
Fixed with vice grips
Just did this and slowly applied a little pressure and adjusted for more pressure at the end of the USB metal connection. It's a sturdy fit now and I'm not losing connectivity.
So the fix is to replace the connector altogether? Does anyone have a digikey part # or equivalent?
My issue seems to be that it charges, but I have no data connection. The pins don't need a reflow. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare micro usb cable to splice and check continuity on hand.
Is there any way I can talk with the enumerator chip to make sure it isn't fried, or should I just do the continuity check?
hi
I have the same problem, i searched on sites how to change it your self, but i couldn't find anything
Just check his signature.
http://mobiletechvideos.mybigcommerce.com/
other stuff available from them too. i am a past customer. they saved my cappy
MICRO USB
Anyone else had the USB port become mildly loose (moves back and forth if any pressure is put on the cable)? I believe its on its way out.

Online place for changing the battery of the samsung s6 edge

Hello,
I don't know if this is the right place where to ask,but I wanna try to ask here. One of my friend two years ago bought the "samsung galaxy s6 edge". Now the battery is broken and he should find a on line place to change it with a new battery,without to pay a big amount of money to make the operation. Do you know where he could go ? He tried to go in local shops but they asked to him a lot of money. Take also in consideration that it is a relatively easy operation to do...thanks
If the battery is swollen, or the phone looks fat, other components may have already been damaged. Do -not- try to charge it. Buy the correct official battery (one that has been very recently manufactured and the two adhesive strips if not already included), the adhesive layer for the back glass (or a brand new back glass with adhesive already attached) and do it yourself.
It is not simple. You must do research, don't rush things and even then you risk breaking the back glass, wireless charging pad, main board, OLED display/digitizer/front glass (while removing battery due to the adhesive), various ribbon cables, connectors and other parts. It is the only way to potentially save money (but not time). Videos are here. You will also want to test functionality of the USB port and wireless charging pad.
Otherwise, contact Samsung directly and send it in.
marietto2008 said:
Hello,
I don't know if this is the right place where to ask,but I wanna try to ask here. One of my friend two years ago bought the "samsung galaxy s6 edge". Now the battery is broken and he should find a on line place to change it with a new battery,without to pay a big amount of money to make the operation. Do you know where he could go ? He tried to go in local shops but they asked to him a lot of money. Take also in consideration that it is a relatively easy operation to do...thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if this is relevant but it took me 15 minutes with a suction cup and a Phillips 00 screwdriver and a $10 oem new battery. Just buy a new back glass for another $10 if you dont want to be careful with it. Check ebay. I swear its not that hard just take your time once it's open to not break cables.

Categories

Resources