In all my previous phones, I've always had root for 2 things. Viper4Android (or ARISE) and Adaway. I can deal with the ads because to get to sites like couchtuner I just use the plethora of available adblock apps for the Samsung browser app. However, I cannot listen to the utter crap audio output of the S8 in its factory unrooted state.
If Viper4Android needs root access to the system partition to bypass the standard linux ALSA driver for sound adjustment, then how does Poweramp bypass it without root? See for yourself. If you use the standard (or any other music player without an EQ) and go into sound properties and adjust the software EQ under Settings --> Sounds and Vibration --> Sound Quality and Effects, the EQ changes the sound. However, if you install and run Poweramp, then when going to this EQ setting, it does not change the sound.
Here's my beef. The Samsung 'system wide' software EQ - when adjusting it, all it's doing is lowering the gain and boosting only that one frequency so your actual volume output is reduced to prevent clipping. On a rooted phone with V4A installed, this does not happen. It truly raises or lowers those specific frequencies. Does the API in Android Nougat prevent anything other than software manipulation? My main use for V4A is to use the "Dynamic System" feature to give more low end boost when the volume is not high, as well as adjusting harsh frequencies. V4A is sheer bliss on the V20. This also works extremely well in vehicles.
Your retort to this is naturally going to be "well just use Poweramp then". The problem with this is anyone that the Poweramp EQ is bound by software and even though it doesn't mess with the volume output, it's effect is terrible compared to V4A. Meaning, the 31hz slider on the EQ boosts around 50hz. The 16khz slider is more around 10khz and the 8khz band - let's not go there.
I'm trying to find out if anyone knows of any other audio application with a built in EQ that bypasses the system EQ Samsung put in the S8 that does not lower gain to try to reach the desired effect. Or suggest anything else I can try? I'm using the S8 with a pair of Westone 4R IEM's and B&O H6 cans. Any audiophile advice is welcome. I just wish I understood this more.
Thanks in advance!
Hey man, I'm in the same boat, and I have tried everything possible on my unrooted S8+, but I can find no substitute for V4A.
I'm using noozxoide-E , and set it to warm/bright, to get some boost where it needs it. I also enabled larger monitors as well.
But I can't find anything that does a clean gain boost or normalize function.
Sent from my SM-G955U using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Best solution I've found to the universally terrible Android audio problems is to get an external DAC. The Dragonfly Black 1.5 is $99 on Amazon and is plug-and play. The bonus is it works literally on any OS (desktop or mobile) and supports all audio formats including lossless. Samsung will try to redirect it to your default audio player app (in my case Neutron) but it works on any audio app you want if you ignore the notification. Basically it's the easiest way to make audio sound good on phones that haven't been rooted (yet). Works great with my Sennheiser headphones and amps the audio too. I just had to buy the USB-A to USB-C cable, which you can buy just about anywhere for cheap. For a phone that costs $800, you'd expect the internal DAC to work better.
Footnote: I bought it at a local Audiophile store on the owner's recommendation. It even works well with the Samsung bundled headphones but is more effective if you have a high-quality audio output. Hence Neutron or a high-quality streaming service.
I been stuck in this boat. Following
fantasticrat said:
Best solution I've found to the universally terrible Android audio problems is to get an external DAC. The Dragonfly Black 1.5 is $99 on Amazon and is plug-and play. The bonus is it works literally on any OS (desktop or mobile) and supports all audio formats including lossless. Samsung will try to redirect it to your default audio player app (in my case Neutron) but it works on any audio app you want if you ignore the notification. Basically it's the easiest way to make audio sound good on phones that haven't been rooted (yet). Works great with my Sennheiser headphones and amps the audio too. I just had to buy the USB-A to USB-C cable, which you can buy just about anywhere for cheap. For a phone that costs $800, you'd expect the internal DAC to work better.
Footnote: I bought it at a local Audiophile store on the owner's recommendation. It even works well with the Samsung bundled headphones but is more effective if you have a high-quality audio output. Hence Neutron or a high-quality streaming service.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's funny that you bring up the Dragonfly, because I own one of them - and they are excellent external DAC's! I have always used USB Audio Player Pro and has worked great. The only problem with that is I can't have it plugged in for hours listening to it because it eats away at the battery I already have a hard enough time using. The last time I tried using a Mophie battery pack, it wouldn't power the Dragonfly, so I couldn't do that either. I actually carried spare battery in my wallet and swapped it out midday. It's just a pain is all and was hoping for a better solution.
I think what I really should do is just get a LG Q8 (which was just introduced). It's literally a LG v20 - only smaller AND has waterproofing. My only concern is having to buy a phone overseas without a warranty.
Thanks for your input, though. I'm sure a lot of people haven't thought about this as an option!
joesee said:
It's funny that you bring up the Dragonfly, because I own one of them - and they are excellent external DAC's! I have always used USB Audio Player Pro and has worked great. The only problem with that is I can't have it plugged in for hours listening to it because it eats away at the battery I already have a hard enough time using. The last time I tried using a Mophie battery pack, it wouldn't power the Dragonfly, so I couldn't do that either. I actually carried spare battery in my wallet and swapped it out midday. It's just a pain is all and was hoping for a better solution.
I think what I really should do is just get a LG Q8 (which was just introduced). It's literally a LG v20 - only smaller AND has waterproofing. My only concern is having to buy a phone overseas without a warranty.
Thanks for your input, though. I'm sure a lot of people haven't thought about this as an option!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely the Dragonfly drains battery if you use the Red. I use the Black because it actually does better with low drain (i.e., portable) headphones. Higher-powered headphones I mostly use at home anyway. The biggest trouble I've had is convincing the S8 to use Tidal instead of suggesting my default audio player (currently Neutron, which at least sounds better than other alternatives I've tried). The advantage to the T-Mobile One unlimited data plan is I can stream lossless audio, and that overcomes a lot of the issues in conjunction with the Dragonfly Black. Oddly enough, the Black seems to *increase* battery life on my Chromebook Plus because my guess is it diverts a lot of the processing effort off the Chromebook's internal hardware. It doesn't have the same longevity on my S8, but I'm considering getting a small C-to-A hub with power throughput for when I'm on roadtrips; that way I can at least charge and listen to music at the same time.
Regarding the warranty, I haven't found that the benefits are really worth it; if you're on these boards and are remotely like me, odds are you'll void the warranty as soon as someone comes out with a way to root the phone. Plus overseas phones are nearly always unlocked (my Chinese-purchased Motorola Defy worked in every country I took it to and could be rooted from the day I bought it).
Quick heads up to my solution.
I got a syncup for $44 brand new from T-Mobile, and put my 6gb free data SIM in it.
I mounted my rooted Galaxy Tab 3 7.0 with a magnetic cd mount, for quick disconnect, so I don't leave it in view when parked. I threw all my streaming apps on it with V4A installed.
Lastly, I installed DIGITS so that all my calls still come through the car's BT just like the music, and obviously I can text as well.
So I now I can stream deezer with V4A running, and it's glorious.
My S8+ is no longer connected to the car, and just sits in the cupholder.
Had to think out of the box
Sent from my SM-G955U using XDA-Developers Legacy app
So this is an interesting turn of events. I dug out my Dragonfly the other day and installed my USB Audio Player PRO (from eXtream Software) and re-installed it. I notice that now they have not only the standard EQ, but also a 5 band parametric EQ. It is an extra $2.99 add on in the application. All in, I think I paid $8 for this app and the add on.
Anyway, this in my opinion is one of the best applications for using an external DAC. BUT - one real nice feature is you can also use the application without a DAC and force the audio through the Android System. So when I pulled out the Dragonfly, plugged my cans in the 3.5mm jack on the S8 and started messing with both EQ's in tandem (without even changing any frequency sliders) I got a MASSIVE boost in gain. This was not software.. it was hardware, because it did not 'compress' the sound to boost the volume like AGC (Automatic Gain Control) found in most audio players. Once I started messing with some of the eq curves (particularly in the parametric EQ) - it is by FAR the closest rival to V4A. In fact, I'd be plenty happy with this solution - IF It worked for all audio apps (Spotify in particular - or even TuneIn).
The biggest point here is V4A can boost the gain and doesn't decrease anything (compress) to get you the adjustments you're looking for on the EQ. The gain adjustment on this Parametric EQ does the same thing. Check it out and let me know how your results are. Really wish there were a way to pipe this through other applications.
That's awesome, good find!
Sent from my SM-G955U using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Related
Greetings:
Over the years I've owned many HTC devices and have always used them as a media player as its main secondary function, usually with CorePlayer as my main software. The one thing I noticed was that when it came to playback, all of my non-Dream phones were relatively quiet (very low noise/artifacts) when it came to music playback.
Ever since I got the G1 (running stock, no mods) I've noticed that there's a huge difference in the audio section-when using the wired adapter, I get lots of noise/artifacts (very noticeable with low playback volume) and I get an incredible amount of GSM chatter (which was rare in my other devices.)
Anyone else noticed this? Any fixes/workarounds? (I'm waiting for the Android port of CorePlayer, maybe that might fix some of the quality issues>)
Audio quality is something that the G1 lacks in my opinion right out of the box, compared to other mobile phones. If you have a rooted mobile though, I would have a look at the Meltus Audio mod (had a look at my signature).
The new V6 version of the audio mod increases audio, clarity and adds a bit of bass
wazmo said:
Greetings:
Over the years I've owned many HTC devices and have always used them as a media player as its main secondary function, usually with CorePlayer as my main software. The one thing I noticed was that when it came to playback, all of my non-Dream phones were relatively quiet (very low noise/artifacts) when it came to music playback.
Ever since I got the G1 (running stock, no mods) I've noticed that there's a huge difference in the audio section-when using the wired adapter, I get lots of noise/artifacts (very noticeable with low playback volume) and I get an incredible amount of GSM chatter (which was rare in my other devices.)
Anyone else noticed this? Any fixes/workarounds? (I'm waiting for the Android port of CorePlayer, maybe that might fix some of the quality issues>)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've noticed it a lot as well. Unfortunately, this has been both out of the box (stock) and rooted with any firmware whatsoever. It's a lot more obvious in my Bose earbuds, since they're noise-canceling, but it's unavoidable all the same.
I haven't tried Meltus's full app yet, just the lite version on the website, but as we speak, I'm on the Market buying it :]. But I've heard it's nothing but amazing, so I would give that a shot too.
Along the same lines, when ripping CDs or converting audio files, what would the ideal bitrate be for use with stock headphones?
The reason I ask is I'm under the impression that if we encode at too high of a bitrate, it will do nothing to increase the sound quality but will suck up more of our limited phone memory (not sdcard space, but useable memory for running apps). Please correct me if I'm wrong about that.
blueheeler said:
Along the same lines, when ripping CDs or converting audio files, what would the ideal bitrate be for use with stock headphones?
The reason I ask is I'm under the impression that if we encode at too high of a bitrate, it will do nothing to increase the sound quality but will suck up more of our limited phone memory (not sdcard space, but useable memory for running apps). Please correct me if I'm wrong about that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use AAC-HE exclusively on phones-I find that using a 56 kbps conversion does a decent job regardless of the headset.
I have no knowledge of which encoding methods causes the greatest impact to running memory usage.
Running CM7 in EMMC nightly 177, all is well. Had the nook about a month. Amazed at what a cool little tablet this is after reflashing. My only lament is I wish the audio out the headset jack was at least decent. I do understand, this was built to be a reader, not an audio-anything. And I'm thinking more and more that's just how it is, forget Pandora, etc.
But I still have scant hopes of alternatives. I've read about host mode in Nook Tweaks, and that folks have at least powered or maybe recognized a FiiO E7 headphone amp/DAC, but I doubt that I can use any app to play high quality audio thru the usb....yet.
What about Bluetooth? Does the Audio sound any better?
First post, hope it gets some interest!
I can never get the audio out via bluetooth.
I've tried 3 different bluetooth headsets.
All have a common issue "paired but not connected"
There were a few threads about it, but I couldn't just get it through.
Some other members do have no problem though.
votinh said:
I can never get the audio out via bluetooth.
I've tried 3 different bluetooth headsets.
All have a common issue "paired but not connected"
There were a few threads about it, but I couldn't just get it through.
Some other members do have no problem though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I paired a Samsung HM3500 ($6 after rebate) which is an bluetooth
earpiece with a usb connection to stereo in-ear phones with a microphone.
Worked great until the battery went low, then the CM7 nook started
freezing the audio as the connection was lost and remade. This is on
a Color Nook booting CM7 nightly 177 off a SanDisk 4Gb class 4 uSD disk.
I have a generic bestbuy BT headset and the sound is great out of it! Not sure why I was able to get the sound, it's been working for me since nightly 38 or so, but I have NOT tried any of the recent nightlies or the RC for 7.1. As for the volume level, after I got Volume++ I thought it got pretty good sound. Of course other devices sound better, but like you said it' kind of a built in problem with the nook.
I did buy a Plantronics BT headset yesterday and haven't tried it with the nook. I'll try it later and post here if it works,
For some reason, I thought it's brand-dependent.
Pls try your Plantronics and let me know how it goes.
I just tried the Plantronics Voyager 520 2 days ago, didn't work
22jjones said:
Running CM7 in EMMC nightly 177, all is well. Had the nook about a month. Amazed at what a cool little tablet this is after reflashing. My only lament is I wish the audio out the headset jack was at least decent. I do understand, this was built to be a reader, not an audio-anything. And I'm thinking more and more that's just how it is, forget Pandora, etc.
But I still have scant hopes of alternatives. I've read about host mode in Nook Tweaks, and that folks have at least powered or maybe recognized a FiiO E7 headphone amp/DAC, but I doubt that I can use any app to play high quality audio thru the usb....yet.
What about Bluetooth? Does the Audio sound any better?
First post, hope it gets some interest!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm the one that connected the Fiio E7+L7 and another home dac
I tested the E7+L7 in my car and in first impression it sounded almost as good as my E-MU 0404 PCI card I have on my CAR-PC ( will do extensive testing when I'll install the nook )
You want better quality? get a better DAC
I don't see why BT will give better SQ , I think it will be way worse
As far as apps , PowerAmp seems to be doing it's job and playing FLAC's without any issues so I don't see the problem here
It's hard to even talk about audio quality (or video quality, food quality, film quality, book quality) without getting a baseline for what a person considers satisfactory, unsatisfactory, great or awful. Some people--possibly most people--are all but oblivious to most of their senses, but then there are some few aficionados of anything and everything under the sun.
I'm not much of an audiophile--Apple stock earbuds do not meet my standards, but most $20 in-ear phones (Skull Candy, Sony, loving my JVC Air Cushions) + iPod + mp3s do meet my standards. From that perspective, I find that adjusting DAC and headphone gain in Nook Tweaks brings the NC up to satisfactory performance for headphones (I can get reasonable fidelity at minor-hearing-damage volume levles), but still weak for line-out.
I've really used the NC a lot less for music than audiobooks, though, where sound quality is less of a concern.
Plantronics 320 does not connect.
Thanks for replies! I'm going to try PowerAmp and flacs. I guess one of my let downs was streaming Pandora or Naptser, but I realize now that even with wifi these are lower bit rate than from a PC. However, with Nook Tweaks and DSP Manager, I can get to a point that is ok.
You might want to stick to just Nook Tweaks for boosting gain. DSP Manager is still useful for equalizing, but layering PowerAmp's boost on top of DSP's boost on top of Nook Tweaks' boost may not be a good idea.
@Taosaur, I tried PowerAmp with flac and ape files last night, and ended up doing exactly as you recommended. DSP ended up turned off. This was my first look at PowerAmp, pretty sweet app. So I had just a little dac and headset gain increase on nook tweaks, and pretty high pre-amp along with eq in PowerAmp. Using a decent set of noise-cancelling buds from Audio Technica. Result is pretty nice! I was looping one song for about an hour while I tried different settings, Pink Floyd - Brain Damage. Now I can't get it out of my head. Not such a bad thing..
**New Info*** I went ahead and bought a refurb FiiO E7 for 69 bux. Charged it up and plugged it in the Nook usb and Viola! Pretty sweet improvement over headphone jack. So, yes, you get a USB DAC, plug it in, and usb audio out comes to life. The FiiO E7 is ideal for this because it is a DAC and Amp in one small package. So virtually no annoying hiss, plenty of gain without distortion, much fuller overall sound, and way more total volume than you can handle. Only prob is at times the audio gets little skips/clicks when the Nook display is busy, I think. Either that or my sd card reading is causing it. I'm on a 16GB class 10, and I read somewhere the higher class cards can be troublesome compared to class 4's.
To recap setup, CM7 recent nightly+Nook Tweaks USB Host Mode.
I'm guessing you need to route that through a powered hub, right? Does it work if the hub is not plugged into the wall?
If you haven't moved any apps to SD and aren't running your OS from SD, I'd be surprised if it's causing you any problems.
No hub! The E7 has it's own battery power, lasts forever. Just a cable with an adapter. I'm running in emmc, build 206. I'll check sdcard, i think i may have put an app on it at one point.
usb "sound cards"
There are a whole raft of cheap usb sound interfaces - equivalent to a sound card on a desktop machine. I got one on ebay for 7$, stereo headphone output is pretty good with the nook. There are 5.1 and 7.1 devices advertised too.
Unfortunately, the sample rate used for the mic differs from that used for playback, so whatever I record via mic plays back in very slo-mo.
I understand that somebody has found a device whose mic input works with the nook, but I had no luck finding exactly what he described.
I'm very interested in the voice input side, both for speech-to-text and for comms, especially skype. Anybody have any new info?
Is there a way to use the Fiio e7 and continue to power the Nook using the stock USB cable?
I am using the NC as a headunit in my car and i would love to have the e7 as my DAC, but I would need to have continuous power for the NC.
Any Ideas?
I can only suggest you plug the NC in when you park the car. I'd say an hour or two per day would be MORE than sufficient to run off the battery the rest of the time. Inconvenient yes but I think all tablets will suffer from this problem (sucky internal codecs and only one power connection which is also shared with any usb host).
22jjones said:
No hub! The E7 has it's own battery power, lasts forever. Just a cable with an adapter. I'm running in emmc, build 206. I'll check sdcard, i think i may have put an app on it at one point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excuse my ignorance...what kind of adapter do you need for this?
Thanks!
Double C said:
Excuse my ignorance...what kind of adapter do you need for this?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Either microUSB male to full USB female to plug straight into the NC, or full USB female-to-female to put on the end of the cord.
Double C said:
Excuse my ignorance...what kind of adapter do you need for this?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my case, the FiiO has a mini usb port, and i use adapter on the FiiO. So I have FiiO > mini usb to full usb female adapter > full male to micro usb cable > Nook.
TL;DR Auxillary and bluetooth have much lesser quality than USB. Video links below show stereo head units that support Android USB audio with app control for the best quality connection (Spotify, Pandora, Google Play Music via USB in your car!) These are single DIN head units without AA.
For audiophiles such as myself, auxiliary cables or Bluetooth is unacceptable when connecting to my car audio system. With these methods, the phone acts as the digital to audio converter instead of the head unit thus greatly reducing sound quality on a high end system. With a USB connection, the phone only acts as storage and a music player while the head unit acts as the DCA.
Finding head units that have a compatible USB connection to android devices has been very difficult in the past. I resorted to storing all my music on an old iPod touch to get Spotify working with my car through USB. The new Android Open Accessory 2.0 is changing that.
I have found a few of youtube videos demonstrating Android USB plug and play connection with two different modes:
App control: Spotify, Pandora, iHeartRadio, Google Play Music ect. (Yes SPOTIFY!!!)
MTP: browse local music files.
- supports basic functions such as play/pause/next/prev
- should work with android version 4.1+
- beware: some head unit models require a software update which can be installed through usb.
- warning: these videos only show connection to nexus phones, meaning if your phone isn't running google edition AOSP, it could cause problems.
- note: AOA 2.0 is different than the android audio update with lollipop, which was meant to allow connection to a separate external DCA via USB OTG.
- more info about the 3 types of android USB connection found in this thread: http://forums.androidcentral.com/an...3-will-android-l-allow-usb-audio-out-car.html
Videos with demonstration:
Pioneer DEH-X2800UI
https://youtu.be/gssbmXJ2pzw
Pioneer DEH-X3800UI
https://youtu.be/dztgOvrUnSE
Pioneer DEH-X5800HD
https://youtu.be/kReFemy4UmU
JVC KW-R910BT
https://youtu.be/h1n6WVefhKc
There are undoubtedly many other head units that support AOA 2.0, but these have video proof!
I have a Nexus 5x, I just ordered the Pioneer DEH-X3800UI for $75 on Amazon.
Ill have the head unit installed within the next week, and will give an update.
Hello Android USB Audio! Goodbye and good riddance iPod touch!
I'm hoping somebody has bought one of these headunits & can confirm how well it works.
Does it essentially work like a USB DAC would & all audio including waze, Poweramp youtube all play through the headunit and speakers?
edit: I found the answer, yes ALL audio goes through the headunit. See here:
go to 5:15
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyOh32a-cY8
TL;DR probably All head units with AOA 2.0 support that on the market right now have a clicking/micro pausing problem.
Sorry for a late response, I had to do some research, as explained below.
Now its time for the good, the bad, and the ugly!
The Good: The head unit preformed as promised, it was simple plug and play to rout all audio from the phone to the car speakers, matching Ipod via USB quality. Spotify, Youtube, Soundcloud, and even Maps navigation all worked.
The Bad: Every 5-30 seconds there is a quick high pitch clicking sound accompanied by a micro pause of the audio of about a quarter of a second. This clicking only happens with a constant audio stream such as a song, not with something brief such as a Maps navigation direction, nor when the phone is plugged in without any audio being streamed. Sometimes I would get lucky and the audio would be perfect for a couple minutes, once even for a couple songs. But when it does happen, the clicking is quite loud and high pitch and with micro pause it is easily noticeable during a normal song. I had 3 friends come listen to my "new setup" to ask them how it sounds, and all 3 of them noticed it. Unacceptable for an audiophile such as myself, so i did some research and conducted some experiments.
The Ugly: I devised a way to easily notice and keep track of the clicks. I played a low constant tone of a 40hz sine wave at high volume which made the abrupt high pitch clicks very loud (and annoying) in contrast to the low constant tone, and it made the micro pauses very obvious due to the interruption of the bass. With my phone I would hear random clicks every 5-30 seconds. I then tested 5 different android phones with various ROMs and about 10 different usb cords and many combinations of them. Clicking was reliably random. I changed kernel settings on some of the phones to see if the cpu performance was effecting it. I tried various apps such as sound about and the pioneer music app. Nothing changed.
I then went to an electronics store that had 8 head units available in store that supported Android Open Accessory 2.0. all hooked up for listening and ready for testing. There were 3 Pioneers, 2 JVC's, and 3 Kenwoods. ALL of them had the clicking problem. The Pioneers were the worst: the most frequent and loud clicks, followed closely behind by the JVC's. The Kenwoods, had clicks every 30 seconds to 2 minutes, and were about 40% less loud. I suspect that with the Kenwood head unit the average person might not be able to detect the clicking and micro pauses during a normal song, but I know i could in my high end system, especially after all this nonsense i would be passively listening for it.
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
ibCurlyFry said:
TL;DR probably All head units with AOA 2.0 support that on the market right now have a clicking/micro pausing problem.
Sorry for a late response, I had to do some research, as explained below.
Now its time for the good, the bad, and the ugly!
The Good: The head unit preformed as promised, it was simple plug and play to rout all audio from the phone to the car speakers, matching Ipod via USB quality. Spotify, Youtube, Soundcloud, and even Maps navigation all worked.
The Bad: Every 5-30 seconds there is a quick high pitch clicking sound accompanied by a micro pause of the audio of about a quarter of a second. This clicking only happens with a constant audio stream such as a song, not with something brief such as a Maps navigation direction, nor when the phone is plugged in without any audio being streamed. Sometimes I would get lucky and the audio would be perfect for a couple minutes, once even for a couple songs. But when it does happen, the clicking is quite loud and high pitch and with micro pause it is easily noticeable during a normal song. I had 3 friends come listen to my "new setup" to ask them how it sounds, and all 3 of them noticed it. Unacceptable for an audiophile such as myself, so i did some research and conducted some experiments.
The Ugly: I devised a way to easily notice and keep track of the clicks. I played a low constant tone of a 40hz sine wave at high volume which made the abrupt high pitch clicks very loud (and annoying) in contrast to the low constant tone, and it made the micro pauses very obvious due to the interruption of the bass. With my phone I would hear random clicks every 5-30 seconds. I then tested 5 different android phones with various ROMs and about 10 different usb cords and many combinations of them. Clicking was reliably random. I changed kernel settings on some of the phones to see if the cpu performance was effecting it. I tried various apps such as sound about and the pioneer music app. Nothing changed.
I then went to an electronics store that had 8 head units available in store that supported Android Open Accessory 2.0. all hooked up for listening and ready for testing. There were 3 Pioneers, 2 JVC's, and 3 Kenwoods. ALL of them had the clicking problem. The Pioneers were the worst: the most frequent and loud clicks, followed closely behind by the JVC's. The Kenwoods, had clicks every 30 seconds to 2 minutes, and were about 40% less loud. I suspect that with the Kenwood head unit the average person might not be able to detect the clicking and micro pauses during a normal song, but I know i could in my high end system, especially after all this nonsense i would be passively listening for it.
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok wow, I'll try to get to a shop soon& test my tablet.
I'm really hoping I can use an OTG cable + hub & then go into one of these headunits. I need the hub in my car for rear camera & SSD media drive.
s2g-unit said:
ok wow, I'll try to get to a shop soon& test my tablet.
I'm really hoping I can use an OTG cable + hub & then go into one of these headunits. I need the hub in my car for rear camera & SSD media drive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah OTG >> USB DAC is what im going to have to do too, unless i find a fix for the clicks.
This post could help: http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/5430#post_10929191
ibCurlyFry said:
Yeah OTG >> USB DAC is what im going to have to do too, unless i find a fix for the clicks.
This post could help: http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/5430#post_10929191
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do actually have a Hifimediy u2 USB DAC.
I'm hoping to go from nexus 7>otg>hub>straight into the AOA 2.0 receiver.
If not my backup will be the USB DAC into a Pioneer 80prs.
Anybody have input?
What would be better in terms of sound quality?
-The aoa 2.0 allows me USB streaming digital into HU
vs
-USB DAC (by passing internal DAC) into Pioneer 80PRS (Amazing Sound quality HU for 250$) but this will have to be done via AUX.
Does the fact I have to use AUX even matter? will it degrade the quality?
s2g-unit said:
I do actually have a Hifimediy u2 USB DAC.
I'm hoping to go from nexus 7>otg>hub>straight into the AOA 2.0 receiver.
If not my backup will be the USB DAC into a Pioneer 80prs.
Anybody have input?
What would be better in terms of sound quality?
-The aoa 2.0 allows me USB streaming digital into HU
vs
-USB DAC (by passing internal DAC) into Pioneer 80PRS (Amazing Sound quality HU for 250$) but this will have to be done via AUX.
Does the fact I have to use AUX even matter? will it degrade the quality?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know using straight AUX from the device tremendously reduces sound quality due to the device acting as a crappy DAC, then sending the audio signal through the AUX to the unit.
But if it goes to a separate DAC then through AUX, i dont know. I would like to find out also
ibCurlyFry said:
I know using straight AUX from the device tremendously reduces sound quality due to the device acting as a crappy DAC, then sending the audio signal through the AUX to the unit.
But if it goes to a separate DAC then through AUX, i dont know. I would like to find out also
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've posted on a few car audio boards. Nobody seems to ask this in the past becasue everybody in the past used ipod via usb. Bluetooth if they dont care about quality.
I think in most cases like you said, the response was negative to using AUX but thats because of the headphone jack / internal DAC as you know.
I'm just curious like you to know how much we would loose by using AUX. Maybe some will say it's because of another D/A conversion but can anybody really tell? I'll wait for some answers.
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Soul0Reaper said:
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't get why you think he needs an Android Auto Setup?
Double DIN radio are more for toys. They don't have the EQ or processing power of single DIN's.
s2g-unit said:
I don't get why you think he needs an Android Auto Setup?
Double DIN radio are more for toys. They don't have the EQ or processing power of single DIN's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh... I never said that he "needed" AA. I am certainly not an expert on head units and am not a claimed audiophile but based on what the requirements were, I don't see a reason why AA can't work. It is simpler to setup, includes spotify support, as well as a more cohesive and unified interface. Based on the issues getting audio over USB to work I think AA is a good alternative.
I'm not sure how DDs have less processing power but if you need such a thing, just add a DSP. I personally am fine with just an amp. Seems very extreme to claim them as toys. I wouldn't be so prejudiced...
Soul0Reaper said:
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Main reasons:
-Touch screens are difficult to operate while driving
-My car would need modifications to install a double din
-And of course the price. I do have a quite high end system, but It is extremely cost efficient.
I believe AA is a waste of money if all you care about is sound quality because the cheapest solution for usb quality app radio is still just a $70 head unit and a used ipod touch for $50.
This is what I had before I heard about these new head units that still cost $70 but allow usb connection to android with aoa so I could potentially get rid of the ipod and just use my phone, but it hasn't worked out so far lol.
ibCurlyFry said:
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AOA only supports 44.1 KHz sampling rate. Maybe a re-sampling issue.
To test I'd try 44.1 source material on a device that is native 44.1.
Note also that Google considers AOA deprecated and discourages it's further use. Very few people used it so Google may not bother fixing bugs, and it may not be a part of their Compatibility Test Suite..
mikereidis said:
AOA only supports 44.1 KHz sampling rate. Maybe a re-sampling issue.
To test I'd try 44.1 source material on a device that is native 44.1.
Note also that Google considers AOA deprecated and discourages it's further use. Very few people used it so Google may not bother fixing bugs, and it may not be a part of their Compatibility Test Suite..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, ill test the sampling rate theory
And its crazy that these head units that support aoa didnt come out until mid-late last year... The stereo companies need to get on track with google and take a break from suckling the teet of Apple
ibCurlyFry said:
Thanks for the info, ill test the sampling rate theory
And its crazy that these head units that support aoa didn't come out until mid-late last year... The stereo companies need to get on track with google and take a break from suckling the teet of Apple
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
None of the shops near me have any of these HU's setup. I'll wait a 1-2 weeks for other peoples developments. If its still the same , I'll just buy a Pioneer 80PRS.
s2g-unit said:
None of the shops near me have any of these HU's setup. I'll wait a 1-2 weeks for other peoples developments. If its still the same , I'll just buy a Pioneer 80PRS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Theres actually alot more than i thought, heres a more complete list:
JVC models: http://www.jvc.net/cs/car/firmware/2014/aoa/
Kenwood models: http://www.kenwood.com/cs/ce/aoa2/
Pioneer models: DEH X2800UI, X32800UI, X3800S, X4800BT, X5800HD, X6800BT, MVH X380BT
ibCurlyFry said:
Main reasons:
-Touch screens are difficult to operate while driving
-My car would need modifications to install a double din
-And of course the price. I do have a quite high end system, but It is extremely cost efficient.
I believe AA is a waste of money if all you care about is sound quality because the cheapest solution for usb quality app radio is still just a $70 head unit and a used ipod touch for $50.
This is what I had before I heard about these new head units that still cost $70 but allow usb connection to android with aoa so I could potentially get rid of the ipod and just use my phone, but it hasn't worked out so far lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed that is a good point. My unit basically cost the same as what I paid for my speakers and amp. I wish you luck on finding a solution!
With more research i concluded that in the following connection:
Device > USB OTG > DAC > AUX > Head Unit
The aux will not effect the sound quality, but this connection will only be on par with USB if the external DAC is capable of grater or equal sound quality of the Head Unit DAC, AND if the AUX cable is of good quality as well.
That being said, i also concluded that depending on the bit rate of the audio, and the quality of your hardware, bluetooth quality might be indistinguishable from USB, especially in the sound environment of a car. But you would have to test that yourself.
I will be going for the external DAC
ibCurlyFry said:
With more research i concluded that in the following connection:
Device > USB OTG > DAC > AUX > Head Unit
The aux will not effect the sound quality, but this connection will only be on par with USB if the external DAC is capable of grater or equal sound quality of the Head Unit DAC, AND if the AUX cable is of good quality as well.
That being said, i also concluded that depending on the bit rate of the audio, and the quality of your hardware, bluetooth quality might be indistinguishable from USB, especially in the sound environment of a car. But you would have to test that yourself.
I will be going for the external DAC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one more shop to check out this week hopefully. I want to test these AOA 2.0 headunits myself with otg cable + usb hub to see if I can still control the tabelt via headunit + test for the problems you had.
s2g-unit said:
I have one more shop to check out this week hopefully. I want to test these AOA 2.0 headunits myself with otg cable + usb hub to see if I can still control the tabelt via headunit + test for the problems you had.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sounds good
Just note the problems i had were occurring when i connected to a AOA 2.0 compatible head unit only via USB (USB A to micro USB).
Not with USB OTG or a USB hub. Idk if it works that way, but let me know
Hi, got a Huawei Mate 10 Pro BLA-L29 8.0.0.136(C185) and a Shanling M0 as a Bluetooth receiver. When I get them connected using LDAC, there are two menu sections where I can set the audio quality to be fed to the M0. One is the Developer Options where, apart from selecting the BT codec itself, I can set sample rate at 44.1 to 96 kHz, bit depth of 16 to 32 bits per sample, and stream bitrate at 330 to 990 kbps. These settings behave in a weird manner, always reverting to default every time I disconnect the BT or even while it's connected. The other instance is the properties of an individual BT device where I can set the LDAC playback quality to either "Optimized for audio quality" or "Balanced audio and connection quality".
Problem: if the BT device is "Optimized for audio quality", I only get decent transmission if stream bitrate is set to 660 kbps or lower in the Developer Options. Inversely, if the latter is set to 990 kbps, it only works decently if the device-specific setting is "Balanced audio and connection quality". If both are set to maximum audio quality, the playback starts gagging violently, interruptions happening up to twice a second if the phone is active and like once every five to ten seconds if the screen is off (the two devices 5 inches away from each other with nothing but air between them).
I brought the Shanling M0 to the nearest Sony store and paired it with a demo phone with LDAC audio quality set to 32/96 at 990 kbps and it worked like a charm without a single hiccup.
Anyone else has this issue and/or aware of a fix?
I have been to a number of stores since the original post and was able to pair my Shanling M0 to various devices:
1. Huawei P20, Android 8.1, Bluetooth 4.2 - same problem.
2. Samsung Galaxy S9+, Android 8.0, Bluetooth 5.0 - no problem.
3. Samsung Galaxy A6, Android 8.0, Bluetooth 4.2 - no problem.
Apparently, Android version is not responsible for the malfunction, neither is Bluetooth version. It's the manufacturer.
Crap, crossing fingers about having this issue fixed. Have you reported it to Huawei customer service and Shanling's one ?
Thank you for the feedback. I'm interested in this small DAP (nostalgic for my beloved Sansa Clip), even if I'm quite sure I probably won't use the Shanling M0 as BT receiver.
Scalpos said:
I'm interested in this small DAP (nostalgic for my beloved Sansa Clip), even if I'm quite sure I probably won't use the Shanling M0 as BT receiver.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you ask me, you should just grab your money and go get it, because it works fine with other phones than Huawei. Even with mine, if I set it to "Balanced audio and connection quality", it's doing great. Actually, the LDAC standard bitrate of 660 kbps is amply sufficient to deliver music from major streaming services like Google Play Music. Whatever the problem is, I don't believe it's Shanling's fault, because the intensity of gagging depends heavily on whether the phone screen is on or off, which has nothing to do with connection quality.
As to the DAP itself, I find its sound signature and stage presentation nothing short of amazing, at least on par with my favorite Hidizs AP100 and far better than vivo Xplay6 or anything else I tried. Sansa Clip+ is nowhere near. The way I feel right now, I'm far more likely to ditch the Huawei phone than the Shanling DAP, because there are reasonable alternatives to the former, but not the latter.
anton79ru said:
If you ask me, you should just grab your money and go get it, because it works fine with other phones than Huawei. Even with mine, if I set it to "Balanced audio and connection quality", it's doing great. Actually, the LDAC standard bitrate of 660 kbps is amply sufficient to deliver music from major streaming services like Google Play Music. Whatever the problem is, I don't believe it's Shanling's fault, because the intensity of gagging depends heavily on whether the phone screen is on or off, which has nothing to do with connection quality.
As to the DAP itself, I find its sound signature and stage presentation nothing short of amazing, at least on par with my favorite Hidizs AP100 and far better than vivo Xplay6 or anything else I tried. Sansa Clip+ is nowhere near. The way I feel right now, I'm far more likely to ditch the Huawei phone than the Shanling DAP, because there are reasonable alternatives to the former, but not the latter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed, I started following Head-fi.org's thread few weeks ago, this device looks great.
I currently own a Cowon Plenue D for more than 2 years, I'm quite happy with it: relatively small, great battery life and sound. But I'd like to have a smaller good DAP I can bring with me when I run, or simply don't want to suck smartphone's battery. I bought a Sansa Sport Clip+ (BT DAP) one year ago, crappiest DAP I ever met...
What's your battery life experience using BT head/earphones wiht this DAP ?
Hello there,
Just to share the using LDAC experience with a mate 10 pro (BLA-L29 145 (C432))
I have a Sony headsets (WH-1000XM2) and it works just fine, I'm able to use LDAC perfectly, sound is very good but you need to be close to the phone, 5m apart and it starts to break.
I know its not the same situation, but this is my experience.
Best regards.
And the volume?
Mine with my sennheiser 4.50 BT NC is very low..
Scalpos said:
What's your battery life experience using BT head/earphones wiht this DAP ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have no such experience, I only use M0 as a BT receiver with wired IEM connected to it. I never even bothered to measure battery life, since it's more than two days of my regular use, i connect it to a USB port earlier than I need to charge.
sartan said:
And the volume? Mine with my sennheiser 4.50 BT NC is very low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you want to control volume on your headphones, you need to set it to maximum on the DAP. The rest of it will be the responsibility of your headphones' integrated amp - if the volume's too low, then it's just not powerful enough, there is no way a bluetooth source can fix that, as it does not transmit loudness.
sadmam said:
Hello there,
Just to share the using LDAC experience with a mate 10 pro (BLA-L29 145 (C432))
I have a Sony headsets (WH-1000XM2) and it works just fine, I'm able to use LDAC perfectly, sound is very good but you need to be close to the phone, 5m apart and it starts to break.
I know its not the same situation, but this is my experience.
Best regards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much indeed, because that's exactly the diagnostic step that I missed. Need to try that to locate the problem more precisely. Are you sure that the LDAC playback quality setting in your bluetooth device options was at "Optimized for audio quality"?
anton79ru said:
I have no such experience, I only use M0 as a BT receiver with wired IEM connected to it. I never even bothered to measure battery life, since it's more than two days of my regular use, i connect it to a USB port earlier than I need to charge.
If you want to control volume on your headphones, you need to set it to maximum on the DAP. The rest of it will be the responsibility of your headphones' integrated amp - if the volume's too low, then it's just not powerful enough, there is no way a bluetooth source can fix that, as it does not transmit loudness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With other smartphone is working perfectly and with strong volume.
Where is possible to maximize the volume on the DAP? Simply with volume buttons?
Thanks.
sartan said:
With other smartphone is working perfectly and with strong volume.
Where is possible to maximize the volume on the DAP? Simply with volume buttons?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suggest that you go to the Shanling M0 thread on head-fi, there's a company representative on that forum who's very cooperative, you should describe your issue to him. I wish I could give you a hand, but my experience is limited to operating the volume wheel on the DAP.
anton79ru said:
Thank you very much indeed, because that's exactly the diagnostic step that I missed. Need to try that to locate the problem more precisely. Are you sure that the LDAC playback quality setting in your bluetooth device options was at "Optimized for audio quality"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes... it has to be... or it wont use LDAC at all... it will use APTX or something else... LDAC is only used on the setting "Optimised for audio quality".
Hey,
I switched from the Redmi Note 4 Global to the Mi 9 lite and everything about the phone is pretty great, except the audio quality over headphones.
I am a bit shocked how terrible it is in comparison. I used my QCY T1 and the Redmi Airdots - both bluetooth - to compare and an older cable bound pair of bose truesound inears.
Issue 1:
The software equalizer just doesnt work on the mi 9 lite. You can use the dials in any music-player app without anything changing actually in the sound. I tried phonograph and poweraudio pro. When I activate the software equalizer on the RN4 the difference is instantly recognizable and I do mean instant. Everyone would notice the sound changing. On the Mi 9 lite nothing changes when I change preset, bass, surround value or even the the actual frequency values.
Issue: 2:
The sound is really low on bass and there is an ever-present hissing on higher frequencies. The whole thing sounds muddy and poor on details.
How did no one notice this of all of those reviewers? The phone is basically DOA if you use your phone listen to music in any way. It basically sounds like terrible nokia headphones they added to the phone from 2003. I cant overstate enough how terrible the sound is.
Please help me understand. This should only be a DAC issue for the cable-bound headphones (the bose ones), right? Bluetooth doesnt actually change from digital to analog, does it? So is this just a question of fixing the bug that the equalizer doesnt work?
AgathoN667 said:
Hey,
I switched from the Redmi Note 4 Global to the Mi 9 lite and everything about the phone is pretty great, except the audio quality over headphones.
I am a bit shocked how terrible it is in comparison. I used my QCY T1 and the Redmi Airdots - both bluetooth - to compare and an older cable bound pair of bose truesound inears.
Issue 1:
The software equalizer just doesnt work on the mi 9 lite. You can use the dials in any music-player app without anything changing actually in the sound. I tried phonograph and poweraudio pro. When I activate the software equalizer on the RN4 the difference is instantly recognizable and I do mean instant. Everyone would notice the sound changing. On the Mi 9 lite nothing changes when I change preset, bass, surround value or even the the actual frequency values.
Issue: 2:
The sound is really low on bass and there is an ever-present hissing on higher frequencies. The whole thing sounds muddy and poor on details.
How did no one notice this of all of those reviewers? The phone is basically DOA if you use your phone listen to music in any way. It basically sounds like terrible nokia headphones they added to the phone from 2003. I cant overstate enough how terrible the sound is.
Please help me understand. This should only be a DAC issue for the cable-bound headphones (the bose ones), right? Bluetooth doesnt actually change from digital to analog, does it? So is this just a question of fixing the bug that the equalizer doesnt work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sound is incredibly good here on both wired and wireless headphones.
NaassomDourado said:
The sound is incredibly good here on both wired and wireless headphones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm thinking of buying this phone and audio quality is important to me. Could you tell us which wired and wireless headphones have you tried?
---------- Post added at 11:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------
AgathoN667 said:
Hey,
I switched from the Redmi Note 4 Global to the Mi 9 lite and everything about the phone is pretty great, except the audio quality over headphones.
I am a bit shocked how terrible it is in comparison. I used my QCY T1 and the Redmi Airdots - both bluetooth - to compare and an older cable bound pair of bose truesound inears.
Issue 1:
The software equalizer just doesnt work on the mi 9 lite.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This isn't good. Audio should be fine with good headphones without equalizer, unless your headphones require an amp. In any event, have you tried eqfy from the play store?
Have same problems. Is problem in miui?
No problems over here tho. I upgraded from a Redmi Note 4x as well but kinda forced since a very damaged screen. No problems with wired Xiaomi Mi in Ear Pro, Haylou GT1 and Audio Technica ATH-ANC700BT.
Well I did have a problem with settings since Bluetooth would become Choppy/stuttery. To fix that I had to turn off battery optimization for Spotify, YouTube and Music. Music quality seems to be decent but I can't remember stock Redmi Note 4 sounds cause Viper4Android was very sweet.
Okay, here's what I came up with after a few days of more testing:
The core issue is that the eq that comes with mp3-player apps doesnt seem to work - the dials for bass boost and surround sound are without any actual effect.
I rarely use spotify because I am oldschool and still use mp3's - so I cant say if the EQ works for spotify.
First I tried changing my country to USA and rebooted the phone and audio got way louder immediately. My Redmi 4 didnt have this BS.
Next I tried EQ-apps like "bass booster", "Equalizer FX" and one simply called "Equalizer". That kind of does the job, but is also only partially working. All of these apps come with a notification addition that give you easy access to their function. Most of them got an on/off switch there. Switching this on/off immediately makes the sound better and actually useable. BUT every other function of all of these app doesnt work. Dialing bass - doesnt work. Dialing surround - doesnt work. Selecting a reverb option like "small room" - doesnt work. Selecting a different EQ preset e.g. "Rock" doesnt change the sound one bit. Sliding the actual frequency bars up and down also doesnt work.
Also there doesnt seem to be a way to only use these apps when using bluetooth or any headphones at all. This means it ****s with the sound of the speakers. Well, who uses his speakers, you probably say now. Yeah, but it also disfigures ring tones and notification sounds. :/
Still, to emphasize again sound is better over headphones using one of these, though I dont know how exactly this works if all the dials are without an effect.
This leads me to the conclusion that the firmware of the Mi 9 Lite has a bug with its soundchip, probably in the way it can accept inputs or parameters.
barth2 said:
This isn't good. Audio should be fine with good headphones without equalizer, unless your headphones require an amp. In any event, have you tried eqfy from the play store?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is 2,99 bucks here. Is it free anywhere? Does someone own this one and can test it? Its advertized as using 10 bands - whatever this means....
ice_doritos said:
No problems over here tho. I upgraded from a Redmi Note 4x as well
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well please dont say there is no problem. Try to actually use the EQ and tell me that changing the bass or surround levels does something noticable.
Navalny said:
Have same problems. Is problem in miui?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the exact same MIUI version on my redmi4 and it worked there. The only difference is the redmi had android7 and the mi 9 lite uses android 8. But I cant imagine the android version being at fault here, because then it would effect way more different phones?
AgathoN667 said:
This is 2,99 bucks here. Is it free anywhere? Does someone own this one and can test it? Its advertized as using 10 bands - whatever this means....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Eqfy works for me but I'm on Android One with mi a3. Bass boost and surround and equalizer work. It has ten bands versus five bands that most equalizer apps have. It can automatically switch to a preset when you connect blue tooth or wired or disconnect. I listen to podcasts on speaker so I use it there too.
The downside is the UI is complicated and confusing and there are lots of settings in preferences and it takes a while to figure out. Because of the ten bands you pretty much have to use landscape and it's a full screen app so switching to it and switching back to another app is awkward.
You can try it and if it doesn't work get an easy refund right away within 2 hours. Beyond 2 hours you have to contact Google store and request a refund within 48 hours. Good luck
barth2 said:
I'm thinking of buying this phone and audio quality is important to me. Could you tell us which wired and wireless headphones have you tried?
---------- Post added at 11:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:40 AM ----------
This isn't good. Audio should be fine with good headphones without equalizer, unless your headphones require an amp. In any event, have you tried eqfy from the play store?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried JBL T110 and JBl Under Armour BT.
barth2 said:
Eqfy works for me but I'm on Android One with mi a3. Bass boost and surround and equalizer work. It has ten bands versus five bands that most equalizer apps have.
You can try it and if it doesn't work get an easy refund right away within 2 hours. Beyond 2 hours you have to contact Google store and request a refund within 48 hours. Good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was about to try that but then read by chance that the player Poweramp also has an integrated 10 band eq. I tried that one, it seems to work fully and do what I actually want from an integrated eq. Endless options and changing levels and turning dials does something. It even has a button linking to the android build-in eq menu and activating that one there / changing stuff suddenly works as well. Has me kind of puzzled? Maybe they changed the way in Android 8 how apps have to access the build in EQ and most player apps are not configured properly yet to use it fully?
Downside to Poweramp is that it says limited trial and the full app costs 4,99€ - I guess I will just spent that cash and be done with this problem once it locks me out.
AgathoN667 said:
I was about to try that but then read by chance that the player Poweramp also has an integrated 10 band eq. I tried that one, it seems to work fully and do what I actually want from an integrated eq. Endless options and changing levels and turning dials does something. It even has a button linking to the android build-in eq menu and activating that one there / changing stuff suddenly works as well. Has me kind of puzzled? Maybe they changed the way in Android 8 how apps have to access the build in EQ and most player apps are not configured properly yet to use it fully?
Downside to Poweramp is that it says limited trial and the full app costs 4,99€ - I guess I will just spent that cash and be done with this problem once it locks me out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's good to know. With a working eq is the quality acceptable now? Comparable to your other devices? Have you tried on wired headphones?
Advantage of eqfy is it works with other apps -- Spotify, Google music, YouTube, etc. It's up to you.