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Introduction:
It's been over a year since the Streak 7 has been released, long enough that Dell has stopped selling it on their website, yet noone has released a legimitate disassembly guide yet.
Around launch time there was a video made showing the device being taken apart, what makes the video completely worthless is the fact they skipped all the most important steps of actually disassembling it and fast forwards though it till when it's nearly fully taken apart.
This guide will detail out all the steps to take it apart while attempting to minimize damage to it for reassembly.
Overall difficulty: 6/10
Without a guide: 11/10
Tools required:
Hair dryer [strongly recommended]
Very small torx screwdriver
Very fine plastic shim or xacto knife
Step 1: Removing the side bumpers
The two side bumpers cover the majority of the screws. The bumpers themselves are held on by a strip of adhesive tape and are also very brittle. The most obvious method to remove them is to heat each of the bumpers with a hair dryer to weaken the adhesive on them. After heating it multiple times it should hopefully weaken enough so that a thin plastic shim or xacto knife can be forced in from the edges.
Depending on the importance of minimizing cosmetic damage, this can be the longest step.
Summerized steps:
Heat bumpers until adhesive is weakened
Shove thing instrument underneath bumpers from outside edge
Pry off bumpers lengthwise to avoid snapping them
Caution:
The area near the capacitive buttons has an exposed ribbon cable, care must be used around that as the cable can be easily sliced.
The shiny plastic bumpers are VERY brittle and can easily snap if flexed any amount. It may take many re-heatings to remove them without damage
Excessive heat applied to the screen may damage the underlying LCD, it is recommended to slowly heat the bumpers in multiple runs to reduce the chance of damage.
Step 2: Removing the screws
List of screws:
2 visible screws under left bumper
3 visible screws under right bumper
1 screw hidden underneath capacitive sensing pad
2 screws hidden underneath white pads inside side flap
The screws underneath the flap might not be possible to remove without cosmetic damage. As they are underneath the flap this may be an acceptable trade-off.
Step 3: Seperating display from body
The display try is attached to the base by plastic clips on the tray, there are 3 clips on the left side that must be detached and then the display should be able to slide slightly leftwards(?) and then opened downwards.
Caution: When detaching the display be aware of the following cables:
One above the dock connector connecting the display itself
One towards the bottom left connecting the touch sensor
One just right of the buttons connecting their sensors
Step 4: Detach display cables
The cables are standard thin ribbon cables, the main display one has a latch while the two touch ones do not(?)
Step 5: Finish detaching the display from the base
The guide will end here and not go though removing the motherboard or other components from the base tray. They are all simply held on by multiple screws.
Step 6: Reassembly
Repeat steps 1-5 in reverse order.
Food for thought:
The differences between the Wifi and 3/4g models are:
Lack of modem
Lack of PCI-E slot for modem
Lack of sim card assembly
Lack of cell modem antenna assembly
It may be possible to solder on a new PCI-E and sim card assembly to turn a Wifi into a 3/4g model. The PCI-E slot is a standardized one while the sim card bay might be custom fitted to the S7. Swapping out the modems from the EU and US submodels is as simple as removing and replacing.
Acknowledgments:
Graffixnyc for donating a device to hack at with a screwdriver disassemble
FCC.gov for stock photos of the disassembeled pieces
Dell for making the Streak 7 held together ultimately by glue.
No thanks to the other teardown video for SKIPPING half of the most important steps
Shameless self-advertising:
The guide is still somewhat incomplete as when I recieved the donor S7 it was already badly damaged, also as I was working more or less blind it took even more damage in the disassembly. If I had a 2nd one to disassemble I might be able to do it with minimum damage.
-Reserved-
WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.
Thanks theManii
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.
jydie said:
WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything but the modem card is soldered onto the board and the board itself has no jumpers.
crockashat said:
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went from the outside as I had a xacto knife and was afraid of scratching the screen, I was pretty agressive with it since it was already scratched up. If you dont go very slowly you might end up discoluring the black plastic (though it's black on black and not hugely noticible)
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals
Originally Posted by TheManii>
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals
Thanks for the information, I will be attempting some surgery of the DS7 in the near future.
when I tried to open the links, they come up as:
You are not authorized to access this page.
not a big deal, I am mechanically inclined so I can figure out most things without too much destruction
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Rewrote the guide, it's nearly complete except the lack of pictures highlighting the various things. Placeholders have already been placed summerizing what they will be of
best diagrams/pics on the 3G/4G linked page
TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These links did work.
Actually both the internal and external photo PDFs have some useful information, and it appears that the more detailed information is in the link for the 3G/4G model.
Thanks again The Manii, appreciate all the helpful information, ROMs, etc.
TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The FCC links work now! Thank you so much for fixing them. Those internal photos are very nice... still I would love to see one in person. I just love taking things apart to see whats inside... but I normally wait until they are dead or defective.
Looks like they use SanDisk for the internal storage... and it is indeed soldered to the board. So, I am not sure what they are doing when they "fix" Streak 7s stuck in read-only mode. Maybe they have to manually short out or complete a connection on the motherboard while re-flashing the internal storage?? Or... with the right equipment, could they actually remove the old flash drive and solder on a new one?
By the way, I like the redesigned layout for your guide. Thank you so, so much for taking the time to describe this process. I greatly appreciate it.
Did you happen to take a close look at the camera to see a S/N or make/model?
I havnt looked at any of the part numbers, I'll make a list when I make the photos to finish the guide
Unfortunately looking at the internal photos again, it looks like virtually all the major chips are underneath the two RF shields or have their own RF shield.
Pretty much the only visible chips are the touchscreen controller, possibly the sim card interface chip and one of the lcd driver chips.
I'm not willing to cut/remove the RF shields as they seem pretty secure, so I'm not gonna be able to pull part numbers off them.
What I'm left with now is a device with:
Demolished dock connector
Cut Capacitive button cable
Missing Flap
Extensive cosmetic damage
Only the cut cable was during the dissassembly though, rest was as-is.
I'm gonna take the final disassembly photos tomorrow then put the whole thing in storage.
hmmm...
I wonder if you would be interested in selling that poor streak for parts
I just bought a unit with a cracked digitizer...
finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.
TheManii said:
finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the glass and screen one piece or will the gorilla glass come apart? I cracked the glass today and the screen itself isn't damaged at all. The unit works perfectly but has cracks on the glass.
Have you heard about sources for parts?
thanks in advance,
DC
The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.
can you see a maker/model of the lcd? also the battery.
TheManii said:
The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the guide, I'll use it when I find the glass to replace.
this is awesome.
been looking for such a guide since long time.
thanks!
For all of you , "omg! No removable battery!" people.
http://www.reddit.com/r/Android/comments/12jze2/nexus_4_battery_may_not_be_so_hard_to_replace_acc/
So while you cant just swap on the go, if you should need to replace it, it looks pretty simple.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Docavelli said:
For all of you , "omg! No removable battery!" people.
http://www.reddit.com/r/Android/comments/12jze2/nexus_4_battery_may_not_be_so_hard_to_replace_acc/
So while you cant just swap on the go, if you should need to replace it, it looks pretty simple.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are screws on the bottom, I'm surprised no one figured this out.
via Tapatalk
Kookas said:
There are screws on the bottom, I'm surprised no one figured this out.
via Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They did. Did you see this thread?
It's just that "you can get a particularly sized torx screwdriver and remove the back, then there are a couple more screws holding the battery in place. If you're very careful, (be sure to wear an anti-static wristband) you can replace the battery. Though it may void the warranty." has never really met the standard of "replaceable battery" when it comes to most users. By this standard, the iPhone's battery is replaceable; in fact, by the looks of it, my iPhone 4's battery is slightly easier to replace; not only because it uses Philips screw heads, but there's less to remove in the phone itself.
This is very good to know!
I hope some case maker can make back cover out of some other material like plastic or aluminum since the glass back is removable so easily..
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
xzr3b0rnzx said:
I hope some case maker can make back cover out of some other material like plastic or aluminum since the glass back is removable so easily..
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LG will offer bumper cases that wouldn't cover the patterned back. i am definitely going to get me one of those when it comes out
xzr3b0rnzx said:
I hope some case maker can make back cover out of some other material like plastic or aluminum since the glass back is removable so easily..
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe antenna and charging coils are in the back. Custom backs may be a problem. Or very expensive.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
the most striking thing to me is internally it looks really well built.
xzr3b0rnzx said:
I hope some case maker can make back cover out of some other material like plastic or aluminum since the glass back is removable so easily..
Sent from my GT-I9100 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Aluminum Backs will mess up NFC and Signal sadly...
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using XDA Premium HD app
Any of these bare electrical connectors seen in the pics let us put microsd card receptor?
Sent from my LG-P999 using xda app-developers app
Replacement
Well at least we know it won't be too difficult to replace the back housing if needed to!
So I'm assuming that those two screws on the silver bit just above the battery are they key to take out the battery?
so... does that mean we can basically get a back cover without the coil (wireless charging) and make the phone slimmer?
I might even try to replace the glass with a shade of grey aluminium.
Hi
RedBlueGreen said:
so... does that mean we can basically get a back cover without the coil (wireless charging) and make the phone slimmer?
I might even try to replace the glass with a shade of grey aluminium.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The back cover contains the GPS, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas, so any replacement backs would need the same antennas and contact points. The cell antenna is at the bottom of the phone rather than being on the back cover so that is okay. The charging and NFC coils are on the back cover as well. So any replacement or after market back cover is going to cost quite a bit and will need to be well made. If you replace the back cover with metal, then you will end up with poor GPS and Wi-Fi signals, if they work at all.
The charging coil is already recessed in the back. If you look at the back cover, the plastic is cut away and the charging coil sits in flush up against the glass back.
We can also see hot spots, presumably the processor and other hot components. Loot at the phone in the picture, towards the top right hand side is a foil covered square (I assume this is the S4 processor), and just up to the left of it are some components, these are exposed through the black plastic cover which goes over most of the motherboard. Now look at the back cover, in matching positions are cutaways where we can the back of the patterned glass. So the processor and other hot components sit up as close to the glass as possible to help cool. It's a shame that the glass is an insulator though, although so is plastic and the glass is very thin, so the phone fairs no worse than anything else.
Regards
Phil
PhilipL said:
Hi
The back cover contains the GPS, Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas, so any replacement backs would need the same antennas and contact points. The cell antenna is at the bottom of the phone rather than being on the back cover so that is okay. The charging and NFC coils are on the back cover as well. So any replacement or after market back cover is going to cost quite a bit and will need to be well made. If you replace the back cover with metal, then you will end up with poor GPS and Wi-Fi signals, if they work at all.
The charging coil is already recessed in the back. If you look at the back cover, the plastic is cut away and the charging coil sits in flush up against the glass back.
We can also see hot spots, presumably the processor and other hot components. Loot at the phone in the picture, towards the top right hand side is a foil covered square (I assume this is the S4 processor), and just up to the left of it are some components, these are exposed through the black plastic cover which goes over most of the motherboard. Now look at the back cover, in matching positions are cutaways where we can the back of the patterned class. So the processor and other hot components sit up as close to the glass as possible to help cool. It's a shame that the glass is an insulator though, although so is plastic and the glass is very thin, so the phone fairs no worse than anything else.
Regards
Phil
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With all that on the back cover, I wonder how much a replacement back cover would cost.
Hi
Initial_G said:
With all that on the back cover, I wonder how much a replacement back cover would cost.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The HTC One X has a similar arrangement of antennas and NFC on the back cover and that cost in the UK around £28.00 via Ebay. The Nexus though has the Gorilla Glass on the back which may make it cost more or hopefully cost less. If there is a big market for replacement backs because the glass is getting broken a lot, that would mean more are made as spare parts reducing costs and more places would supply them, driving prices lower due to competition. We wait and see
Regards
Phil
PhilipL said:
We can also see hot spots, presumably the processor and other hot components. Loot at the phone in the picture, towards the top right hand side is a foil covered square (I assume this is the S4 processor), and just up to the left of it are some components, these are exposed through the black plastic cover which goes over most of the motherboard. Now look at the back cover, in matching positions are cutaways where we can the back of the patterned class. So the processor and other hot components sit up as close to the glass as possible to help cool. It's a shame that the glass is an insulator though, although so is plastic and the glass is very thin, so the phone fairs no worse than anything else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FCC is very helpful in this regard, just query the FCC ID:
https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/ViewExhibitReport.cfm?mode=Exhibits&RequestTimeout=500&calledFromFrame=N&application_id=278241&fcc_id=%27ZNFE960%27
and look at the internal photos.
That foil covered square is almost certain not the S4, that one sits on the other side of the PCB.
Hi
draugaz said:
FCC is very helpful in this regard, just query the FCC ID:
https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/reports/ViewExhibitReport.cfm?mode=Exhibits&RequestTimeout=500&calledFromFrame=N&application_id=278241&fcc_id=%27ZNFE960%27
and look at the internal photos.
That foil covered square is almost certain not the S4, that one sits on the other side of the PCB.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the link. Hard to see what that raised area relates to on those pictures. Odd the processor is the other side sandwiched in the phone, and lets hope that isn't the cause of alleged thermal throttling causing low speeds. On phones like the HTC One X the processor is against the back with a large area of copper foil to dissipate heat, although the S4 has the benefit of being 28nm.
Looking at different FCC photos and knowing it isn't the processor, it must be some sort of power regulation circuitry.
Regards
Phil
Hi,
I read few threads about build quality of the Samsung Note 4 but mostly I fount speculations and opinions not supported with facts. I am mechanical engineer and I like to think that I know few thinks about processes that are being used in modern industry.
I would like to focus on metal finish which was a decision maker to upgrade from Note 3.
When I first received my new Note 4, first think I did was not turning it on, but inspecting quality of the new body. After few minutes I already knew that there will be problems. I wasn't mistaken...
Lets sort one think up, because there was a big discussion about it in previous threads. Note 4 is not made out of metal. Main body of the smartphone is made purely out of plastic. To better understand it, remove back cover and remove S-pen. This Grayish plastic you see everywhere is actually the main frame of the smartphone. Visible metal sides of the phone as well, are plastic. Metal finish is only metallic coating. There are few processes that allow to cover plastic with metal and most generally it is called metallization. You may ask - so what? Important that it is looking and feeling good... I would completely agree with you if not for the fact that coating is ridiculously thin. I am very careful with my Note 4, but I don't use any covers and additional protection for device. After only few months after using my smartphone I saw first negative signs such as flaking off black metallic paint where the USB receptacle is. Once it stars it gets only worse. later on you have to be even more careful for flaking will continue even when you scratch it lightly with the nail. I would like to point as well, that under this black metallic paint there is plastic. If you expected metal you will be disappointed. Actual silver chamfers are a little bit thicker - around 0,2+-0,05mm. I am not a fan of Iphone but I appreciate real metal body. It bothers me when I see price of the device. I would expect to see real premium device instead of constant covering up with better materials plastic "Samsung madness". Don't think than I am a Samsung hater, because its completely opposite. I didn't change brand since Samsung Galaxy S, and I had all smartphones from Note series.
After Note 3 I'm disappointed by note 4. At least N3 wasn't pretending anything. Not only from build quality newest note is not a good successor of good old note 3 but from software point of view as well but that is topic for other thread.
I covered only one aspect of poor quality of the phone. There are more but to reduce the length of the post I wont describe them. I will mention only at the end that if you are looking for robust made phone this is not what you should look for. I have a feeling that device is made like this to look like **** after warranty period ends.
Peace
Rbn
The Note 4 is metal, here is a metal test of the frame:
https://youtu.be/d-7Yw_XXviI
Go spew your nonsense somewhere else.
EDIT:
The black sides of my Note 4 are fine, no flacking, the USB and area surrounding it are also still fine. I have had my Note 4 since launch (got it 2days early). Used it for 8months with no cover, only recently put a cover as I wanted it to fee thicker and more substantial in hand and to protect it as I do drop it a lot.
Is he touching on the metallic coated chamfer or the actual side of the phone?
POLO_i780 said:
The Note 4 is metal, here is a metal test of the frame:
Go spew your nonsense somewhere else.
EDIT:
The black sides of my Note 4 are fine, no flacking, the USB and area surrounding it are also still fine. I have had my Note 4 since launch (got it 2days early). Used it for 8months with no cover, only recently put a cover as I wanted it to fee thicker and more substantial in hand and to protect it as I do drop it a lot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you serious with this youtube clip, or it is a joke? I am not sure... He is touching 3cm apart of each other on metallic chamfer which I already said is metallic (if you would read carefully) thickens of the metal he check resistance of i approximately 0,2mm as I as well said before. if he would touch on left and right side there would be no conduction because chamfer are separated in exactly 4 individual points.
Your comment has no sens what so ever apart of some strange attitude.
mark0326 said:
Is he touching on the metallic coated chamfer or the actual side of the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
He touched both, 1st the chamfered side and then the side.
He did the video in response to another person who was claiming the Note 4 isn't metal, when in actual fact it is.
POLO_i780 said:
He touched both, 1st the chamfered side and then the side.
He did the video in response to another person who was claiming the Note 4 isn't metal, when in actual fact it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see words them self do not convince you so pictures will have to (self made).
Few words of commentary if you do not understand. picture ***23 show where the coating ends (probably for antenna connection reasons).
Picture ***43 shows that in fact there is a conductivity, therefore metallic surface (like on youtube video you posted)
On picture ***53 you can clearly see that there is infinite resistance = no metallic connection
If you still do not believe on the picture ***22 you can see that housing is in fact non conductive = non metallic
Stop your nonsense argument please.
Rubenqben said:
I see words them self do not convince you so pictures will have to (self made).
Few words of commentary if you do not understand. picture ***23 show where the coating ends (probably for antenna connection reasons).
Picture ***43 shows that in fact there is a conductivity, therefore metallic surface (like on youtube video you posted)
On picture ***53 you can clearly see that there is infinite resistance = no metallic connection
If you still do not believe on the picture ***22 you can see that housing is in fact non conductive = non metallic
Stop your nonsense argument please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All you have proved is that there are parts of the frame that are not metal e.g. the USB area, where the antennas are and may I add where the 3.5mm jack is, this is party to be expected as even with my iPad these areas in particular will have some sort of plastic within.
The frame is mostly metal. Its winter down here and the frame gets icy cold to the touch vs. the back cover plastic and front glass.
You haven't really made any point, the Note 4 at the end of the day is a well built premium phone, in my experience, Samsung have ensured the areas that shouldn't be metal aren't you can actually see them e.g. around USB port is a tiny bump, same with where the antennas are.
People are not satisfied with anything nowadays...
Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
lordoftheriffs said:
People are not satisfied with anything nowadays...
Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed.
I can't quite believe you guys are fighting over a mostly plastic phone. I agree with the first poster and what he has posted makes sense. I've also taken my note 4 apart and you can clearly tell it is mostly plastic with the exception being the coated chamfer which is coated with metal then painted and polished, as well as the screws. Ignoring the logic board which contains many elements your left with the screen and glass covering. To be short the phone is mostly plastic and not mostly metal like the users are trying to argue.
Plastic is very inefficient at blocking radio signals, I'm happy.
If it was all metal, someone would say that it is very heavy and signal is poor. If it was glass, people would say it is fragile and a fingerprint magnet. I believe our phone is an ideal blend of premium and other features. I personally love the faux leather back, it is much more robust than a real leathet or gloss plastic.
Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
lordoftheriffs said:
If it was all metal, someone would say that it is very heavy and signal is poor. If it was glass, people would say it is fragile and a fingerprint magnet. I believe our phone is an ideal blend of premium and other features. I personally love the faux leather back, it is much more robust than a real leathet or gloss plastic.
Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly. This phone is very well built and blend of materials very well thought-out.
The faux leather is brilliant, mine still looks as good as new since launch, while many LG G4 Leather Back owners already have wear and tear within weeks of owning the phone.
While I do think that this is very well designed phone, op is right in his claim that there's not a lot of metal for someone who expected at least outer frame to be aluminum. He is right that under black metallic Paint is only white plastic.
Actually it is amazing how well they have managed to fuse aluminum chamfer, and only that (this is best visible when taking pen out and looking at the cross section). The supposed antenna breaks, on top and bottom, are purely for decoration, and to fool the users into thinking that sections are solid metal and evocative of iPhone of yesteryear that had those cutouts for a reason.
Altogether, there's probably not much more than 5 grams of aluminum on the whole frame. If even that much?
Im just glad that the paint finish on this phone is much more durable than s4 and s5, where even sweat would cause peeling of the fake chrome coating,provided you don't drop phone (it is true that once metallic paints start peeling on certain section, the process accelerates.
All that said, I do agree with polo_i780 last post absolutely.
Note 4 ?
To the op, are you sure your note 4 is not a fake? I mean no disrespect just that mine has been dropped and such without a case, has lots of scratches all around and it doesn't flake as you say. I just tried scratching it with my nails and.... nothing.
If it does indeed have an insanely thin coating then no way would the frame get icy cold as the other poster said (mine does this).
My note 3 never felt like this. Also you're wrong the note 3 did pretend to be something. A leather notebook with the rear cover. But I actually preferred that cover instead of this one lol.
Either way no company is going to please everyone.
I kind of agree with the original poster. There's something "missing" in build quality on the N4, it just doesn't feel as premium as the metal flagships or even the S6. I think it's almost a half and half like Samsung were half way through redesigning their handsets the N4 is the result. I'm not saying it feels cheap or it isn't a nice design, I just don't think it feels like a full premium design.
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Disagree. This phone is designed very well. I don't care for metal.
The OP's analysis perfectly describes the very well known problem of the N4's "metal" sides getting very scratched up due solely to the use of certain cases. If you've just recently picked up an N4, search the forum for "scratched metal" and you'll see no shortage of threads where the issue is mentioned (my search for topics with those terms from the main page of the N4 forum yielded 84 results).
@Rubenqben if the edges have become annoyingly scratched, there's a DIY fix that also protects the edges from future damage involving metal polish. Very detailed instructions w/ pics can be found via search, IIRC there have been a few guides in the "General" subforum. I've done this to my device that's now about 7 months old and the edges are even shinier than they were before removing the plastic from the phone (it should be noted that using metal polish on the edges lightens the metal color a few "shades", likely dependent on the specific product that you use... not in a bad way IMO, I actually think that mine looks better with the "Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream" from Amazon).
Now should it be necessary to use potentially damaging chemicals on a $$$ phone so that the edges don't get scratched up by a protective case?
I'm curious what other build quality issues you've discovered that were alluded to in the OP? I've been happy with my N4 overall, but I've definitely encountered some issues that seem like they can only be traced back to hardware design flaws... I'm no engineer though so I'm interested in your other findings :good:
My note 4 is fine its metal and the paint doesnt chip so did you buy a knock off phone.
Sent from my SM-N910V using XDA Free mobile app
jazzmachine said:
the op's analysis perfectly describes the very well known problem of the n4's "metal" sides getting very scratched up due solely to the use of certain cases. If you've just recently picked up an n4, search the forum for "scratched metal" and you'll see no shortage of threads where the issue is mentioned (my search for topics with those terms from the main page of the n4 forum yielded 84 results).
@rubenqben if the edges have become annoyingly scratched, there's a diy fix that also protects the edges from future damage involving metal polish. Very detailed instructions w/ pics can be found via search, iirc there have been a few guides in the "general" subforum.
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I couldn't agree more. I had a Note 3 and with the exact care and usage it was perfectly fine whereas my Note 4 has scratches on the metal sides! Yes the metal sides looks better but they also loves to be scratched, without even trying to, just by changing covers and cases! Even the Samsung Protective cover wasn't able to prevent the scratches! With S6 Samsung has hardened/improved the metal so hopefully Note 5 will not have any metal issues like Note 4. Btw, can you share the exact guide you tested and confirmed it works? Thank you!
Rate this thread to express how you think the LG V20 feels in terms of quality. A higher rating indicates that it feels premium and high-quality (attention to detail is high, manufacturing defects don't exist, etc).
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
Meh. It ain't no Note 7. That said, what wows me is performance first. My phone will be in a case which means aesthetics is moot.
The design isn't exciting, but honestly I didn't think much of the glass note 7. That stupid thing fell out of my pocket while I was laying down and cracked the back and the camera lens cover. as douger1957 said it'll be in a case anyway.
douger1957 said:
Meh. It ain't no Note 7. That said, what wows me is performance first. My phone will be in a case which means aesthetics is moot.
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agreed...the quality of my N7 was amazing...as for the V20, screen looks great...i like the simplicity of the design...performance is great as well!!
It is an elegant understated design IMHO, least in the titanium color. Done well. Varying materials match colors (matching Al to plastic ain't easy), feels good in the hand for a naked phone (most are ice cubes).
before everyone was complaining about samsung and others that they dont use "premium" materials.
Now when they do glass/metal is bad also. Easy to crack, fingerprint magnet and at the end you put case on it so what's the point really?! just higher premium price. every phone in case will look almost the same no matter if its glass or metal or plastic but people wanted so they have it
I think my V10 felt more solid, but this phone is great too!
Sent from my LG-H918 using XDA-Developers mobile app
masondoctorjt said:
I think my V10 felt more solid, but this phone is great too!
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I must concur with you. I in particular liked the steel rails of the V10, which were attached to the main body. I suspect the V20 would have done better in the torture test of trying to bend the main body if it still had the steel rails. Looks like most of the rigidity of the V20 comes from aluminum back, which isn't fully attached. True, that was a torture test, but still...
it's not shiny armor nor glossy glass. But since Optimus G Pro, I stick to LG products for their build quality. G Pro, G 3, G Flex 2 and now V20, all these guys looks and feels solid in my hand.
I'm coming from note 4. I feel that the built quality is nice. For metal phone it's light in hand, big enough to fit the hands. Nice to hold.
Also the screen is awesome. So far I'm liking the phone.
I wish I had note 7, but due to their fiasco, I purchased this and I'll be with it for some time now. I don't plan on getting a new phone until this one dies.
as for the V20, screen looks great
Honestly, I don't think it's the nicest looking phone I've ever had.
But, It fits in my hand perfectly and compared to my old samsung phones, it feels much more solid. Compared to the note 5, I can reach all of the screen with one hand no problem. I like the more rugged, metal look of the phone.
They have an obviously flawed camera glass design that is shattering for thousands of people for no reason and LG is refusing to own the issue as usual. Otherwise it feels like good quality.
Just be prepared to have a useless camera.
Maybe it has a kind of industrial look. but it is tough as hell! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2El1Fo8Pqc 1000Ft drop and it still works lol!
Who needs a glass back that easily cracks. It'll be in a case anyway as pointed out well in most posts. Mine had a case from the moment I bought it. Just a cheap $4 at first but bought the ringke onyx and spigen tempered glass instantly as well.
Purchased dbrand stickers as well for the rear dual cam since the factory installed clear plastic ones seems to be not durable and won't last long. Though I still have them on for addt'l layer of protection. I find drop protection more useful than waterproof or dust proof ability.
Durability
Speaking of durability, a guy dropped a V20 a thousand feet from a drone onto a concrete parking lot, and the camera glass didn't break, the phone was actually still functional. The glass seems to be more vulnerable to a scratch or maybe a direct hit, a guy scratched it with a box cutter and the glass cracked, something a protective skin should help with.
Ok gang, v20 has to be one of my ever lasting phones.
I've dropped it a few times (with case one and off) no issues.
Now my wife is using it, and it got into my little ones possession, and Bam .... To the floor ... Initially there was issues with the microphone. Saw the headphone icon on the top. I did the insert and pull out of headphone trick people mentioned on blog, after I did a soft reset.
I even cautiously or tried to replicate the drop see if it would goggle loose pieces together.
But after 2 days of waiting the headphone icon disappeared and my wife called me to see if mic was working and it was I was able to hear her.
So just getting it out there for anyone else with a similar predicament .... It's not solution but at least it will provide some hope for the problem to just wait it out.
kparikh82276 said:
Ok gang, v20 has to be one of my ever lasting phones.
I've dropped it a few times (with case one and off) no issues.
Now my wife is using it, and it got into my little ones possession, and Bam .... To the floor ... Initially there was issues with the microphone. Saw the headphone icon on the top. I did the insert and pull out of headphone trick people mentioned on blog, after I did a soft reset.
I even cautiously or tried to replicate the drop see if it would goggle loose pieces together.
But after 2 days of waiting the headphone icon disappeared and my wife called me to see if mic was working and it was I was able to hear her.
So just getting it out there for anyone else with a similar predicament .... It's not solution but at least it will provide some hope for the problem to just wait it out.
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Lucky. When I had a v20, lots of horror stories every week on Reddit about minor bumps breaking camera glass. One nice thing about the v20--a million screws but it is easy to tear apart and replace things if they die.
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
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I'll bet you can find a video on YouTube explaining how to disassemble your device.
I DO NOT PROVIDE HELP IN PM, KEEP IT IN THE THREADS WHERE EVERYONE CAN SHARE
Droidriven said:
I'll bet you can find a video on YouTube explaining how to disassemble your device.
I DO NOT PROVIDE HELP IN PM, KEEP IT IN THE THREADS WHERE EVERYONE CAN SHARE
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Already search extensively, no luck so far. Prefer not to 'experiment' and wreck the thing!
kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
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Bro check YouTube very well... it there
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I can help you.
kiwironnie said:
Need to disassemble my Doogee Y6 (not Y6 Max) to replace the USB port.
If anybody has successfully removed the back, some brief instructions would be really appreciated.
Best wishes, Ron.
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Did u fix it? I can help you. I opened the phone like 10+ times.
Hi, I have the same problem, I need to open the phone to replace the camera but did not manage to find anything on youtube. Would u please help me? Thanks
Monster 00 said:
Did u fix it? I can help you. I opened the phone like 10+ times.
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Sorry for the later reply Monster. Thought this thread had gone dead!
If you've got some tips about how to open the case without destroying it that would be really helpful.
There's a few videos etc on opening Doogees around (Y6 Max etc) but none that I've found for the Y6, which is quite a different case.
Cheers, Ron
kiwironnie said:
Sorry for the later reply Monster. Thought this thread had gone dead!
If you've got some tips about how to open the case without destroying it that would be really helpful.
There's a few videos etc on opening Doogees around (Y6 Max etc) but none that I've found for the Y6, which is quite a different case.
Cheers, Ron
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So to start take a flat screwdriver. You may turn off the phone it's not necessary. Remove the sim tray. To open the phone read carefully. Don't try to remove the back metal plate, you're doing it all wrong. There is a plastic surround that meets with the glass. You need to insert your flat screwdriver in the corner(I prefer bottom right) of the plastic case/surround and the phone screen must be facing you. Now there is a super thin black plastic that separate the glass and the surround, you need to put your screwdriver between the thin black plastic and the surround (mine is gold). The plastic will wear a little bit but if you do it properly, you won't notice any scratch or paint damage. Put your screwdriver in and pull it apart trying to lift the back cover. Don't be scared but be careful, go until you hear a click then you may use your finger nail or the screwdriver and pass it all around the phone. You will hear many clicks. Don't be scared for the fingerprint sensor because it is stick to the phone. After having done that for the first time you will be able to open the phone like previous phones used to be, that is removing it like a removable back cover using your fingernails. I hope I could do a video. Tell me if you did not understand a thing because I can use my phone only on Saturday and Sunday( exams are near).
Monster 00 said:
So to start take a flat screwdriver. You may turn off the phone it's not necessary. Remove the sim tray. To open the phone read carefully. Don't try to remove the back metal plate, you're doing it all wrong. There is a plastic surround that meets with the glass. You need to insert your flat screwdriver in the corner(I prefer bottom right) of the plastic case/surround and the phone screen must be facing you. Now there is a super thin black plastic that separate the glass and the surround, you need to put your screwdriver between the thin black plastic and the surround (mine is gold). The plastic will wear a little bit but if you do it properly, you won't notice any scratch or paint damage. Put your screwdriver in and pull it apart trying to lift the back cover. Don't be scared but be careful, go until you hear a click then you may use your finger nail or the screwdriver and pass it all around the phone. You will hear many clicks. Don't be scared for the fingerprint sensor because it is stick to the phone. After having done that for the first time you will be able to open the phone like previous phones used to be, that is removing it like a removable back cover using your fingernails. I hope I could do a video. Tell me if you did not understand a thing because I can use my phone only on Saturday and Sunday( exams are near).
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Brilliant! Thanks Monster. For me you provide a remarkably clear explanation. Used a very small, flat bladed jewellers screwdriver to lever the black plastic surround away until it clicked, just as you describe, then used an old credit card as a helper, to slide along the gap, to separate the metal back from the rest of the phone. Now just need to figure out how to actually make the repair!
Very best of luck with your exams. (so glad to be largely done with such things!)
Best wishes, Ron.
kiwironnie said:
Brilliant! Thanks Monster. For me you provide a remarkably clear explanation. Used a very small, flat bladed jewellers screwdriver to lever the black plastic surround away until it clicked, just as you describe, then used an old credit card as a helper, to slide along the gap, to separate the metal back from the rest of the phone. Now just need to figure out how to actually make the repair!
Very best of luck with your exams. (so glad to be largely done with such things!)
Best wishes, Ron.
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I was about to make a video to help you. I'm glad you succeeded to open the phone. Now tell me what do you need to repair.
Monster 00 said:
I was about to make a video to help you. I'm glad you succeeded to open the phone. Now tell me what do you need to repair.
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A video would no doubt be tremendously helpful to others anyway.
The problem with the phone is the micro USB socket is stuffed. The plug is loose and difficult to get a connection, due to continual pushing on it by the USB cover flap on the flexible plastic case that came with the phone. Have cut the flap off but the damage has been done (warning to others!).
At first glance it looks like the circuit board will have to come out to have any reasonable chance of de-soldering the socket.
Cheers Ron.
kiwironnie said:
A video would no doubt be tremendously helpful to others anyway.
The problem with the phone is the micro USB socket is stuffed. The plug is loose and difficult to get a connection, due to continual pushing on it by the USB cover flap on the flexible plastic case that came with the phone. Have cut the flap off but the damage has been done (warning to others!).
At first glance it looks like the circuit board will have to come out to have any reasonable chance of de-soldering the socket.
Cheers Ron.
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I would prefer replacing the charging board itself. Changing the USB connector seems difficult for me. I can do a teardown video but the problem is the camera. I only have a Samsung galaxy core to make video as I can't take the y6 itself to make a video. The galaxy core does not support focusing while filming and the videos turn out blurry.
Monster 00 said:
I would prefer replacing the charging board itself. Changing the USB connector seems difficult for me. I can do a teardown video but the problem is the camera. I only have a Samsung galaxy core to make video as I can't take the y6 itself to make a video. The galaxy core does not support focusing while filming and the videos turn out blurry.
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Great advice, makes sense. I now see that it is a separate board and that there are several sellers of Doogee Y6 charging boards. So the plan now is to purchase and try to replace the board, perhaps also replacing the USB connector on the old board as a spare.
Do you know if the ribbon cable(s) have a lock, or does it just pull out? Although a video would have been great, some basic advice on removing the board could be a life saver.
kiwironnie said:
Great advice, makes sense. I now see that it is a separate board and that there are several sellers of Doogee Y6 charging boards. So the plan now is to purchase and try to replace the board, perhaps also replacing the USB connector on the old board as a spare.
Do you know if the ribbon cable(s) have a lock, or does it just pull out? Although a video would have been great, some basic advice on removing the board could be a life saver.
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I'll try my best to make a video as I can't do it in front of my parents and as I told you I can only get the phone Saturday and Sunday. Today is Sunday, I'll try my best to help you. If I can't make a video then I'll post the instructions here. I forgot if it has a lock or not.
Monster 00 said:
I'll try my best to make a video as I can't do it in front of my parents and as I told you I can only get the phone Saturday and Sunday. Today is Sunday, I'll try my best to help you. If I can't make a video then I'll post the instructions here. I forgot if it has a lock or not.
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Thanks again Monster. The part's on order now now. So whatever you manage will be really appreciated. No rush as it's coming from China, at least a couple of weeks away. Cheers Ron.
kiwironnie said:
Thanks again Monster. The part's on order now now. So whatever you manage will be really appreciated. No rush as it's coming from China, at least a couple of weeks away. Cheers Ron.
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Hey I opened the phone and checked the flex cable. It has a lock hidden under some cover, cloth like material. I'm sorry it I won't be able to do a video because it is super blurry. Now that u know how to open the phone you have to unscrew 4 screws at the bottom. After that gently lift the plastic cover because you may damage the speaker and/or the vibrator. You will see the speaker is actually low quality. As for the charging board, it's pretty easy to remove. Once you remove the plastic cover open the lock by gentle lifting the flap and disconnect the cable. I think that you will need to remove the battery too because the cable is too short and maybe be tricky for you to remove it. You must be really carefully when removing the battery. Take a flat object( I used the same flat screwdriver) and try to lift the battery. Make sure not to puncture it. There's a lot of glue underneath. When you remove the battery then it will be easy to remove the cable. There is two clips holding the board in place and you will need to move one of them to take out the board. Mime is a bit damaged but it's OK. The plastic cover protects it. Don't hesistate to ask questions if you don't understand. Thanks.
Monster 00 said:
Hey I opened the phone and checked the flex cable. It has a lock hidden under some cover, cloth like material. I'm sorry it I won't be able to do a video because it is super blurry. Now that u know how to open the phone you have to unscrew 4 screws at the bottom. After that gently lift the plastic cover because you may damage the speaker and/or the vibrator. You will see the speaker is actually low quality. As for the charging board, it's pretty easy to remove. Once you remove the plastic cover open the lock by gentle lifting the flap and disconnect the cable. I think that you will need to remove the battery too because the cable is too short and maybe be tricky for you to remove it. You must be really carefully when removing the battery. Take a flat object( I used the same flat screwdriver) and try to lift the battery. Make sure not to puncture it. There's a lot of glue underneath. When you remove the battery then it will be easy to remove the cable. There is two clips holding the board in place and you will need to move one of them to take out the board. Mime is a bit damaged but it's OK. The plastic cover protects it. Don't hesistate to ask questions if you don't understand. Thanks.
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Brilliant, thanks again! No need for a video, as your explanation is very clear and should be obvious to others after they get the back off the phone. Having recently removed a glued battery from a Kindle, it was a hell of an arm wrestle! Hopefully it will be a bit easier with the Y6. I have a flat nylon spudger with a rounded edge, which should be able to lift the battery without puncturing it. Upgrading the speaker at the same time could be a useful hack, if a better one can be found that fits. Although don't know if the impedance is the same for most phone speakers.
Will post results here including any lessons learnt. Cheers Ron.
The replacement usb charge board arrived, purchased from this guy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Origina...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Posting the url as the service was excellent. Very well packed in its own cardboard box and sent by registered post. So I would buy from him again, even if he is a little more expensive than some on AliExpress.
To fit the new board, the case was opened, as described above and the battery removed. To remove the battery, two screws need to be removed from a metal plate covering the battery connector. The battery ribbon cable connector can then be levered up with a small flat screwdriver blade. It's a effectively a plug with a push fit onto the connector so just pops off.
To remove the battery I used an old credit card, sliding it underneath at one edge of the battery, then gently pushing it forward to release the battery bit by bit, from it being glued to the base. This shouldn't need a lot of force and it is important to avoid snagging the ribbon cable that runs under the battery.
The black plastic cover that houses the speaker and covers the charging board was then removed by unscrewing 4 screws. On my phone one screw had a white plastic covering, into which a cross head jewellers screwdriver can be pushed to grip the screw. The charger board was then exposed and the two speaker wires and two wires from the vibrator were unsoldered using a fine tip iron. The plastic cover was then fully removed. The black rubber tape covering the ribbon cable connector was scraped away, the connector unlocked and the ribbon cable removed. The antenna connector attached to the charger board was then levered off using a small flat bladed screwdriver. The charger board itself was then pulled out. It is held in place by tiny plastic tabs on either side and was a bit of a fiddle to remove.
The old charger board has some Kapton or similar tape underneath, which the new board didn't have. So I applied some similar tape to the new board, but this may not be essential. The new board was then fitted back in, again a bit of a fiddle. I found the best way was was to insert the right hand side of the board first under its tab (looking at the inside of the phone from the charger end), with the board rotated slightly anti clockwise, then pushing the left hand side forward (rotating clockwise) and under the left hand tab so that it effectively clicks into place (not much of a click). The rest of assembly was the reverse of disassembly. Soldering the 4 wires (polarity is marked on the board), pushing the ribbon cable squarely into the connector and locking it. Nearly forgot to push the antenna connector back on!
Replaced the back and the new charge board worked perfectly. What a relief! Thanks again to Monster for getting me started. Cheers Ron.
Hello everyone,
I have every tool needed to fix any problems on any mobile phones. But after fixing my y6, I have thought that a T5S would be piece of cake. But it's not.
Any ideas if I can just remove the broken digitizer to attach the new one or is it glued to the LCD like all new Samsung models?