If you get the keyboard case, use an alcohol swab to clean off the back of your S6 before trying to stick the back on. I initially had trouble with the back coming off easily. Once I swabbed it off it sticks very securely.
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okay so i had been able to charge my phone recently, but the tilt wouldn't connect to the computer (sync)
so i read the wiki and what not
i took off the rubber cover on the pins and noticed one was bent a little...so i unbent it and connected it back to the usb connection WITHOUT the rubber cover...and voila, it now syncs with the pc
i then tried putting the rubber cover back on and it WONT sync back with the pc
it only works WITHOUT the rubber cover now....any suggestions? should i just leave it like this?
Well, if it works without the rubber cover and doesn't work with the rubber cover, my suggestion would be to leave the rubber cover off. That is of course if you want it to work.
I've had the g1 since launch and the charging cover is starting to get loose. The clip on the left side of the cover doesn't stay closed anymore and always hangs out halfway.
Just wondering if anyone has the same problem and found a fix.
Fix
OK, so I played around a little bit and realized that the clips on the left and right of the mini usb cover are not really used to keep the cover in place.
To tighten up the cover again I used 3 pieces of scotch tape, layered on top of each other, on the long side of the hexagon shape of the mini usb. Make sure the tape is on there well and wont come off too easily. It has worked so far for me, but don't know how long it will last.
If anyone has any other suggestions, it would be appreciated.
I've been contemplating taking mine off.
I took mine off. No need to open a flap to charge now
Had no probs whatsoever since
Hiya,
Is there any way to close the gap between the keyboard and the screen when the phone is closed. It looks as though when it's closed there ae slide springs which keep it together?
Does it appear to be slightly loose - like its lifting off and when you press the top plate it reduces the gap?
I think they all do that - tried to tighten the hinges a bit with the screws attaching the two pieces - really doesn't make a difference. I do think you can also tighten the hinge with the single "hidden" screw which will also tighten the tilt mechanism. Haven't tried that yet - because you have to remove a few extra pieces from the slider piece. Not really sure if it will work - the rails I think have some slack build in to them and the only way to remove it would be to bend the rails which I don't want to attempt.
I also noticed on the new TILT2's there is a ton of floppy-ness when the unit is closed. I passed on upgrading because it felt cheap - the display did it and a new one out of the box did it. Feels like the two pieces when closed are very loose.
The washer fix resolved the screen lift issue for many, however I've noticed that something doesn't quite add up. Using the washer fix mysteriously resolves(or partially) the issue of a springy/spongy left screen and the creaks and popping noise. The theory was that the screws was too long and tightened too far with the ends of the screws pushing the glass screen out and pulling the plastic silver bezel back.
There isn't a reason to why the springy screen or strange noises was fixed and neither a reason to what the cause was. Besides resolving those issues some people found it hard to push the back cover back on and still have bulging back covers and also bulging silver bezel. You might get away with this issue by putting washers on the two centre screws and taking out the washer on the top part of the screen. I believe this worked because the height of the screws gets elevated with the washers and pushes against the back cover and denting and marking it in some cases. If you managed pop the cover back on the increased pressure from the screws makes the plastic tabs pull on the silver bezel and warping it (maybe).
I thought maybe the culpit of the screen lift might not simply be long screws. But I didn't understand how the washers fixed it. After looking at iFixit teardown pictures I saw something else that could push down on the LCD unit and onto the screen. On the second picture of step 12 I can see large cut outs in the metal frame and on the back side of the motherboard I can see taped components. I thought it might be possible that the taping left creases and air bubbles on the pcb and the bulging of the taped components looks like it can press on to the LCD unit directly underneath. The cause of the popping noise and sponginess came clear to me now. The popping noise comes from the tape being pressed against it (it could be glue from the screen/bezel too) and the sponginess is probably the PCB bending .
I think what the washers did was lifting both the metal frame and the pcb up and the taped components underneath didn't press against the LCD unit anymore. This created screw elevation for some people and back covers can't fit back easily as I mentioned.
I didn't want any screen lift, bulging back cover/bezel. I thought maybe I can lift the pcb up without putting washers in and I thought of just wedging the pcb against the metal frame right next to the screws. I don't recommend anyone to just try jamming stuff underneath the pcb without checking out the pictures and have a plan first. There are components underneath and please don't push anything too far in. I've tried putting plastic blister underneath the pcb in between 4 screws and next to the 4 pin connector. They are just longer rectangles by the way and I trimmed the ends in the same way as the washer method. However the screen still bulges a little around the centre where I can't put wedges because of the ribbon cable. The bulging back cover problem is completely gone however. I think I will try to put one washer for the screw above the ribbon cable, because I can see that the pcb has a screw hole right under the ribbon cable near that screw. This should lift the pcb a little around the centre. However I'm going to put a thinner washer as I don't want the screw to get elevated too much.
Anyone thinks this theory is rubbish, or have something to add?
EDIT: I report success! Instead of typing out the same thing I will show you with pictures. No idea if this fix will last, no guarantees. I still have a little sideways bulge but my N7 is so close to being perfect now. I don't think I will change anything else for now.
it's from that black foamy piece in your photo....this was mentioned in one of the other threads....
The rubber seal got loose on both ends, it's only glued on the middle, this makes the USB cover to open by itself, there is a way I can glue the rubber seal?
I know a flap replacement would be the ideal solution but that's not possible for me.