I was curious if anyone else has this pair?
I get wildly different sleep results.
Does anyone else have similar results?
I got the Oura ring about 3 months ago. Was hoping it measures SPo2, but it doesn't. It's main advantages are it tracks temperature and heart rate variability, both of which may be indicators of recovery and possibly predict illness a day or two before symptoms. NBA and WNBA are wearing them as potential early warning of Covid-19.
As a sleep tracker, it's one of the best. Samsung still has a lot of work to do. However, IMO Sleep As Android is just as good, and you can buy a fingertip pulse ox to pair to track SPo2 while you sleep. Only thing about Sleep as Android is it's auto-detect sleep feature isn't as good as Oura (which seems almost flawless), but it takes 2 seconds to launch it before you go to bed.
If I realized Oura Ring doesn't track Spo2, and knew the Galaxy Watch 3 was around the corner, I probably would have saved my money. Still wearing it, but considering selling it, especially with rumors of a 3 gen coming out in the next year. That one probably will have SPo2 tracking, and it will probably be better at that than any other wearable out there. Of course, I'm sure Apple and Sammie will add temperature to their next watches, and they already should have capability to measure HRV (perhaps Apple already does, don't know).
Hi also have both, the ring since few days only and was impressed to see similar patterns of sleep tracking on both devices. The only issue is the samsung GW3 gives very few deep sleep time (which looks like a common issue if you look at some other forums) on the account of light sleep, whereas the oura ring gives more deep sleep. But the trending graphs of both are very similar and correlating. I will post later some screenshots as I track both together in the samsung health app (by importing the oura ring data via the health sync app)
Have both. Totally different results. Moved the watch to the same hand for sleeping, just to see if it would match Oura more. It didn't. The two devices appear to be on different people, one with a sleeping disorder. Occasionally they match on total hours, but Oura consistently states I am still awake for 30-90 minutes after I am out cold. Deep sleep and REM occasionally match on individual periods. IE never for the night, but both might say I was in REM at 2 am. Might.
I do not think they have ever come close to fully matching.
If I had to guess, I'd say one or both are just making up data for REM and Deep Sleep. It's really hard signal processing to get consistent data from really fuzzy sources about partially understood body conditions in different people and conditions. I'd also guess the devices are only accurate some of the time, and only for some people. I'm clearly not one of them. Oura's tech support likes to suggest there is something irregular about my sleep. My sleep did get irregular trying to use the Oura. I would have to believe Samsung has the chops to gather good analysis from imperfect sensors.
I'd love to put two Oura's on the same hand or different hands and see if that data matches. I do know that the Samsung watch nails the start and stop of sleep and naps. All the time.
Related
Hello guys! Some of you may have participated in the beta of Killswitch, our app for tablets and phones with cases.
We need some feedback from people with the GTab, as we havent got one in the office. Could those of you that participated please leave some comments and thoughts on improving the app's functionality?
We have just released a major update that should solve some sensitivity issues and wonder if this has affected GTab users.
So guys, any insights? Im really looking for suggestions and bugs!
I just ordered a case for my Gtab. I'll go ahead and DL your app and test it. Sounds great!
eh $2.36 to try it out. I'll wait 'til someone who might have had a chance to try it to chime in first.
~edit: After reading the thread about your app I will buy and give it a go when my case comes in.
Excellent! Let me know what you think!
I plan on adding a new schedule feature by early next week, so you can selectively turn off sensors at different times of day - so it would use light in the daytime and proximity at night, for example.
This is more of a question instead of feedback (though it may give you an idea for future app improvements).
Does Killswitch allow for your Android device to turn off after being idle for a certain amount of time? Specifically, I tend to set my tablet down and it goes to sleep but never turns off. As a result, it slowly chews away at battery life. I've been trying to find a program that would automatically turn off my tablet after x amount of time of the screen being turned off or no activity from me.
Food for thought!
I have thought of integrating this into killswitch for those cheaper tabs with bad power management.
Of course, its totally unnecessary on most devices where standby time is 2 weeks or more (ive got almost a month out of my galaxy tab on a full charge)!
Light Sensor didn't work for me until I changed the Sensitivity to 1%, now it works great. Thanks
Interesting - ive been thinking of adding device-specific settings, but of course that would mean lots of feedback, and that can be hard to come by!
ftgg99 said:
I have thought of integrating this into killswitch for those cheaper tabs with bad power management.
Of course, its totally unnecessary on most devices where standby time is 2 weeks or more (ive got almost a month out of my galaxy tab on a full charge)!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very true, but for those that are still running 2.2 or other phone-oriented versions of Android, stock settings don't usually allow for auto-shutdown (because as a phone, you'd never want that feature). However, sitting my tablet down only to pick it up 5 days later for a good surfing session and seeing only 20% of battery life really does suck.
Imagine how much longer a single charge would last for tablets if they had a timed power-off feature! I know I am usually charging my tablet not from use but from that gradual battery drain from putting the tablet aside and just forgetting to turn it off.
I haven't found a single app that does this on the marketplace (or I would have already installed it).
Im convinced, I will try to see if this is possible in sleep for most tablets...
Firstly, please don't bombard me with the check apps responses and the like. I've been running down apps and processes for 2 weeks. I went from being able to use my phone all day with gps on, wifi on, email syncing, and all that good stuff, and still have plenty of juice left after a full day. All of the sudden my phone is draining so fast that it will barely make it overnight (unused). From around 12:30am- 6:30am my phone went from 78% - 2% and was in deep sleep for around 5hr45min of that time. There were no changes or new installs during the period when this started happening. I actually have two Bionics (hwd A & hwd C versions) that were RDlite back to stock ICS within one day of each other (months ago), with not much done to them other than root and unlocking sim. Both started exhibiting this behavior around the same time. Killing apps and background processes and services make no difference at all. The excessively quick drain continues even when in deep sleep. I haven't done another reset, but from what I've read up on the issue, that procedure hasn't helped anyone else who've started experiencing this same problem?
Any suggestions beyond the same ol' 'check your running apps and cpu use'. Something is wrong beyond apps keeping the phone awake or active when the issue continues while in deep sleep.
Your phone is obviously not in deep sleep if it goes from 78-2% unused overnight. Either that or both your batteries are failing at the same time.
Betterbatterystats is telling me it's going into deep sleep. I didn't think so either, for the obvious reasons, but it does without any excessive delay when the phone is left alone. Andriod.os battery use is always in the 60-80% range unless I'm playing a game or something that you would expect to eat up an appreciable amount of cpu cycles. I have 10 instances of kworker/u, is that many normal? 6 of those seem to dominate the energy consumption by android.os. This is the only thing that I've found that stands out. I may be wrong, I don't know much about linux, but I thought that I should also see some type of activity from an app associated with higher kworker activity and/or that many instances running. I admit I'm assuming more than anything else there though.
I find it more plausible that my issue is more related to an issue which seems to be common across a broad range of users, than 3 batteries tested in 2 different phones suddenly acting abnormally, but all in an identical fashion. I don't think it's hardware related either. Two different hardware revisions! Highly unlikely to phones manufactured so far apart would start to exhibit the same hardware related issue at the same time. It would be more likely to occur over a similar period of operation or age in that case. The only common factor, other than when the phones started exhibiting this problem, is that they were flashed back to stock ICS within a day of each other around Feb or March.
I suppose it'd be really rare that this would happen on both phones but is it possible the batteries are just trashed? Try a new one?
I'm now 3 days into having a refurbished UB2 and learning what it can and cannot do, its limits, before I rely on it.
I have a usual bike loop of about 70 miles with 6000ft of ascent and I do it in about 5hr30m typically. I thought I'd try the UB2 "standalone" off from BT, left the mobile at home, to see what happened.
The UB2 was losing 25% of its battery an hour meaning it cannot do more than 4 hours. It kept connecting / disconnecting. It had no clue about my actual calories, I was using Google Fit and it was giving the same dumb 500Cals/hour even when going up a steep hill, it seemed to only know about speed even though GPS obviously knows you are going up or down hill, so it was showing me burning calories quickly on a downhill and slowly on an uphill when the truth is the opposite. If all it is going to do use is elapsed time, I can do that math easily.
As I had no mobile with me, the problem was the UB2 was my emergency phone so I took it off my wrist, when I got to 44% of power left at around 2 hours in to ensure it was not flat, connected it to power (I have a USB power socket on my bike via front dynohub) to top it up, and then Google Fit determined the act of connecting to power must equal I was no longer biking when not true so it stopped the timer.
I have previously tried Google Fit on a mobile and it drained the mobile battery pretty fast too.
The heartrate was unreliable, I was getting between 56 and 133. It seems reliable when stationary but not when moving, so meaning its not going to accurately tell you much of value.
The GPS got stuck and it stopped recording distance. I was not sure if this was me trying LG's fitness app (which I cannot uninstall) vs Google Fit, I was wondering these competed for GPS and the watch got confused?
The radio frequencies, across 2g 3g 4g were in general worse coverage than a mobile, I was getting no signal on UB2 in places I'd get a signal with a mobile.
Probably this is a better device for walker/runners who go out for less time, more in urban situations near stronger radio signals.
I have now flashed to AW2 and will try it again, see if its less dumb than AW1.5. I think I'm going to totally give up Google Fit, its laughably less than useless given its wildly wrong and a battery drain, and just go away from mobile and see how long it lasts.
I'm not sure what is the point of LTE and a stiff band for antennae, if it holds a weak signal, nor of it being a fitness device if using it more than a 4 hours makes it go flat, nor what is the point of the heartrate monitor which is so wildly inaccurate.
Still, could have been worse, I could have paid double with the LG Sport. :laugh:
I'm not a cyclist but I've been recording my runs since the original release of the watch in November 2015. It doesn't compare to fitness focused devices like Garmin for battery life, HRM, etc., but with some trial and error I've setup mine to be perfect for my needs. I use ghostracer to record activities. It is very customisable and has many metrics to choose from. The developer is a cyclist as are many that use it, and responds quickly to questions/issues over in Google+.
I've noticed with mine the GPS is spotty if the watch contacts sweat/moisture, similar to the same issue with the SW3. I started wearing a 2" wristband under the watch for runs about a year ago and the GPS has been nearly perfect since then, in rain/snow/heat. The built in HRM isn't the best during activities but ghostracer also allows you to connect a BT chest strap for much more accuracy, since I'm wearing a wristband this is handy if I choose to use one. I also use Wear GPS (same developer) to get a lock before I switch over to ghostracer and I'm always paired through LTE to my phone that I leave in the car. I think this improves GPS as well with assisted data from the phone. I don't think they meant for the battery to last like other trackers, but I can get a few hours or more out of it and for my running that's plenty. If I ever run another marathon, I may have to find an alternative, but a half should be no problem. I've had pretty good cell signal and that probably helps but I'm sure it doesn't receive as well as a phone. For me the watch was a big improvement. Streaming bluetooth music from audio on the watch while tracking GPS and having a phone available has been great. It's nice leaving the phone behind. I just forward calls to the watch during runs.
mward1995 said:
...ghostracer ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll look up ghostracer, thanks.
Today I was all alone with no mobile and just the UB2 running AW2 developer preview.
The battery life was about the same problem, and often, more often than with a mobile, I lost cellular connectivity. Now on reading up on AW2 that loss of connectivity may be deliberate as it turns LTE on/off as an app needs it, i.e. if the app collects data every 5 mins but waits til say 30 mins to upload, then that would mean one brief LTE enablement per 30 mins, so the fewer apps running wanting to talk to the mobile/cloud the better. I still however got about 25% battery loss per hour so in effect a 4 hour maximum usage. That is fine for runner and the shorter bike rides. I'm not clear if the cloud with an arrow through it on the display = "I can connect but I'm choosing not to" or "I can't connect".
I used Strava, and it was losing GPS and saying "paused" even when I was moving, but on getting home and looking at the ride, it seem to have fairly accurately guessed I must have been moving between getting GPS signals and estimated what I'd done in between, fairly accurately.
So you reckon a damp wrist worsens GPS? Surely your wrist is down and GPS is up so they should not interfere? It would interfere with pulse checking?
To turn 4 hours battery life into 5-6 hours of my actual ride, on long downhills I took the watch off and connected to power, I could see the green flashing of the heartrate monitor flashing, and due the weak magnetic connection to the USB cable, I was forced to ride one-handed to pinch the UB2 to its cable, but doing that I managed to top-up battery and got home without a flat battery. The Strava ride shows the periods of no pulse but otherwise looks reasonably accurate of route, moving times, mileage.
So now I know its standalone battery limits of about 4 hours, I will try it next with it BT connected to a mobile in a pocket, as then it only has to do BT not LTE, and possibly it doesn't have to do GPS as the phone does, see if that helps. I keep the mobile connected to power so its reasonably able to withstand its tasks, and hopefully the asks of the UB2 are reduced to last longer.
FYI today I had the UB2 on AW1.5 current stock and had cellular off, and it was BT tethered to my phone. I told the UB2 I was about to road cycle. It went into battery saving after about 5 hours and stopped doing anything fitness related. It did say it was using the phone for GPS and obviously it was only doing BT, not Wifi or LTE.
On Google Fit it got the time about right but the distance completely wrong. Calories quite a bit wrong too.
Basically, its rubbish as a cycling fitness device whether its standalone or tethered.
Not to come off improperly, but your review doesn't mean a whole lot since you're not using a proper app. The guy above mentioned ghost racer yet you go back out and use Google fit again and expect different results. It's like eating soup with a fork. GR is a great app. Install it, use it, then post a review.
Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk
Granted, I'm only on day 4.. but still..
I've tried disabling LTE, simple watch-face, etc.. but can't get it to live for more then 12 hours without needing a recharge..
Do those of you reaching more then 12 hours use an always on screen? Gestures?
I did do a test overnight and it only dropped 20% (7 hours) - but my typical drop rate is much higher then that with casual use..
-mark
ps - I'm on-track for 12 hours again today, and that's with only having received ~3-4 email notifications which I just quickly dismissed in the past two hours so far..
For those that might be interested in this subject, I also posted it on reddit which seems to be getting much more traffic..
https://www.reddit.com/r/AndroidWea...ort_watch_how_are_you_guys_getting_more_then/
-mark
I just put mine on charge after 48 hrs with 3% left that is with screen always on off and only turning WiFi on when needed.I'm using mine tethered to my g6 without lte.
Firstly in my case I don't use LTE.
I've found having WiFi and gps switch on has made very little difference to battery life, as it's tethered anyway for this information.
I think the battery life has got better after a couple of weeks usage, and typically a full day has plenty left, nearly 50% on occasions.
Yesterday was a long day, and it managed 20 hours straight through
I usually get around 24 hours. But barely 24 hours (if I do anything except let my watch run idle on my wrist whole day, I don't hit the mark).
Screen always ON
NO SIM (doesn't even work in europe)
Always tethered to the phone
Tilt OFF
Gestures OFF
Location MIXED (decided to experiment a bit, seen no discernible difference in battery drain whether it was ON or OFF)
Watchface: Portions with 4 complications
First couple of hours is sleep tracking with screen turned off (but constant HRM sensor activity), which consumes slightly less than regular operation.
Today I turned always screen off and holy **** what a difference. After 12 hours I'm still at 80%. So the clear culprit of this is the screen. I think I will try to get used to this, it was wasting energy 99% of the time before anyway (I'm not looking it at it all the time).
I end up getting through the day at about 30 to 50% with everything on except for LTE which I toggle on and off during the rare occasions I need it. I usually use brightness 6 during the evening and 8 during the day, I find the auto-brightness too dim on every occasion. On the other hand I've had a few random days where it rapidly used it's battery and I was down to power saving in the afternoon. Havne't figured out what is happening when it occurs but when it happens my phone also rapidly drains. Other than that I wish I could increase the screen on time, it sometimes dims before I've done what I want to do and I feel like I have enough spare bat to burn a little more keeping it on longer.
My Answer, you don't. I leave everything on and charge it, like 3 times a day. I'm lucky because I have two others to swap to during charge, but I even bought a second charger for work when I do not have those available.
I simply do not want to reduce any features of the watch, so I charge it often. That's just what it is if you ask me, you're not going to miraculously get this thing working for 2 days, simple as that. So use it big, and charge it often!
$13.99 the name is: LG Watch Sport Charger, Kissmart Replacement Charger Charging Cradle Dock Adapter for LG Watch Sport Smart Watch
krabman said:
I end up getting through the day at about 30 to 50% with everything on except for LTE which I toggle on and off during the rare occasions I need it. I usually use brightness 6 during the evening and 8 during the day, I find the auto-brightness too dim on every occasion. On the other hand I've had a few random days where it rapidly used it's battery and I was down to power saving in the afternoon. Havne't figured out what is happening when it occurs but when it happens my phone also rapidly drains. Other than that I wish I could increase the screen on time, it sometimes dims before I've done what I want to do and I feel like I have enough spare bat to burn a little more keeping it on longer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is there a faster way to toggle cellular on and off other than going into settings?
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Not that I know of and for me it's a double downer, when I use the watch standalone I don't need bluetooth. I menu dive to switch both and then revert when I'm done. The radios should be available from the pull down quick settings IMO, it would be enough to have an icon there to open them all and you could toggle those you need from there. Considering the wasted space on that pull down it becomes a bit of a what were they thinking issue...
Hi guys i'm interested about lg watch sport here in europe and i'm willing to buy from ebay korean model. My cuestion is can i use it completly without pairing to phone with sim inside. Can i set it up without cell phone? How about using facebook, viber ( making VOIP calls) email etc... thanks
Logon941 said:
Hi guys i'm interested about lg watch sport here in europe and i'm willing to buy from ebay korean model. My cuestion is can i use it completly without pairing to phone with sim inside. Can i set it up without cell phone? How about using facebook, viber ( making VOIP calls) email etc... thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to pair with phone initially. It also makes it easier to copy your accounts over to the watch. After you set it up, you don't need your phone anymore BUT if you keep it on cellular the watch isn't going to last.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
krabman said:
Not that I know of and for me it's a double downer, when I use the watch standalone I don't need bluetooth. I menu dive to switch both and then revert when I'm done. The radios should be available from the pull down quick settings IMO, it would be enough to have an icon there to open them all and you could toggle those you need from there. Considering the wasted space on that pull down it becomes a bit of a what were they thinking issue...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my time with the watch it appears that having cellular on has little impact on battery life as long as you're within range of your phone. The part that does affect battery life with cellular on is IF you're in an area with just complete sucky cell signal to start off with. (IE my workplace) that will kill battery.
I had battery draining issues at work even with cellular off at work but I figured out that although on my phone when connected to work wifi I can get to the play store on my phone but on my watch it can't get to the playstore or communicate with google. My assumption is the watch is draining because the google play services can't connect/sync with google therefore causing it to stay awake and drain. Watch battery life has been much better when I disable wifi on my phone BUT now my phone drains a little faster because it's not on wifi.
Bluetooth Autoconnect app has been a lifesaver when having watch/phone/BT headset/BT car connected. You can set up profiles and priorities so that the car/headset/headphones take over the call duties so you can hear phone calls through those devices instead of the watch.
I'm still getting used to life having to sift through the menus to disable and enable radios but you're right. There needs to be an easier and faster way.
Last night my phone was on 81%, so I decided not to charge it because today is Saturday so no rush. I turned on battery saver and went to sleep. Imagine my surprise, after 8 hours of sleep battery was51%. Thats 30% loss of charge with battery saver enabled and phone left to just rest. That's shocking. I've seen 8-10% loss on a new phone, because the first couple of days you just install your apps and move your stuff like music, videos, pics etc and the phone needs to optimize all the new stuff and still learning your pattern of use. But after two months it should have settled down by now. Considered the fact that it stays on charger overnight at business days so it has enough time to optimize. It's quite clean and debloated, it's the official UK variant bought directly from Vodafone. I guess that instead of enjoying my weekend I will spend my time trying to tackle the issue. Don't get me wrong - the general impression of the phone is positive, but I believe Xiaomi have a long way ahead of them to mature the MIUI and take care of such nonsense. They brag about being second in shipment of phones worldwide but if you ask me they are way behind in software development. I mean seriously, even the official ota update you get is called "stable version". It's like they're experimenting. This is the major reason why apple and sammy are not scared of Xiaomi. Just because miui is still immature experiment. Huawei on the other hand was very mature software wise before they were screwed up so badly.
On the general there's quite few things that are quite annoying. I mean, ghost touches on the display, questionable fingerprint reader, despite the fact I don't use screen protector and got rid of the foil it came with. Now I have a ghost alarm. I use to wake up at 5:50 every morning but I moved to a different place so now I can sleep till 6:40. But whatever I do the alarm at 5:50 is still there. Active. I deleted all the alarms, cleaned cache and storage, whatever. I wake up at 5:50 every morning. The NFC chip is quite wonky too. Sometimes it works from like 5 centimeters distance, other times it doesn't even work at all, or just giving you error. It's like the phone is in deep sleep and you have to unlock it and play with it couple of minutes to make sure your contactless payment works. Never seen anything like that. I come from oneplus and despite being two year old phone contactless payment worked like a charm. Every single time. I don't see myself with this phone two years from now.
Well, I got no problems with battery drain during my sleeping time. I didn't use it that much yesterday, but as you can see, there is no unusual drain at all.
Buddy have a look at my thread for battery drain
xNAPx said:
Buddy have a look at my thread for battery drain
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Will do. But being completely stock it might be difficult.
Nothing you can't do even with stock and no root, if you need any help just ask