Database Develop

[Q] On charge - but battery still depleting?

Hi guys,
I wanted to use my NexusS in the car. I have a 3rd party cigarette lighter to USB which I put a mini to micro adapter on.
The phone does two strange things...
Firstly the screen will not go off - it won't time out and if I switch it off it switches itself right back on again.
Secondly, even though it says it is charging the battery life depleted - and fast too. I watched it loose 10% of its charge in around 10 minutes.
Any ideas - is it just a rubbish USB adapter (worked fine with my other phones, most were HTC).
Anyone else seen this - and fixed it?
/R

try a different charger. If issue stops, you've got your answer

Try a name brand (not cheap or generic) cigarette lighter plug that has a USB female on the other end. You could use the supplied usb data cable that came with the phone for charging (that's just about all it's good for). It's a straight cable so it won't be pulling on the phone when it's charging and if you're using it (if the cable is long enough) I hate coiled cables with a passion! Yeah it might be six feet long if you stretch it out but it will always be pulling the phone if you use it while charging.
Some cables aren't wired inside like a standard usb cable is. Lg is notorious for that. Some of their older phones refused to charge if you tried to use a standard usb cable. For a good data cable, that isn't cheap quality, I suggest the sprint usb data cable that the corporate stores sell. It's built good and has a solid connection. A less expensive one is an ultra brand usb to micro usb cable that you can find at compusa. The six foot one is perfect. Yes you can find others online cheaper of course, but as a local solution, you should be able to find these stores. I don't know the quality of any that might be sold at best buy or your cell phone company. Generally from what i've seen, the cell phone stores that have lots of generic accessories, have dummy phones or all their phones in a glass display case are the places that will probably have low quality cables. Some people don't care about stuff like that and some run into problems with flashing or being detected correctly by the computer or the plugs wiggling in the sockets and possibly causing intermittent connections. See where I'm going with this? Imagine you are flashing and halfway through it or at a critical point of data transfer. The plug connections aren't good or solid because they wiggle. The contacts momentarily lose connection and the data stops... Stuff like this is a bricked phone waiting to happen imo. Both Samsung and HTC cables that were supplied with the phones with my past phones seemed like they weren't very good data cables. Some may have never had a problem with these but I have. Times when phones refused to flash or be detected by the host computer, then the problem went away when I used "better" quality cables.
Sorry for my usual rambling when I reply. I like to explain things in a way that a non tech person could begin to understand.
As for your original question, I have experienced this too. Almost always a reboot fixes that problem. A good tool to use for charge and discharge info is a widget called battery monitor widget. I turn the sampling rate faster to like five seconds and the battery capacity to what the battery is actually rated at. The widget always seems to guess the wrong capacity of the battery. You can watch and learn what your phone normally idles at and when something is really sucking a lot of power. On the flip side, it will show you when the battery is trickle or charging it hard. Mine idles at less than ten milliamps and I've seen it charge as much as upper nine hundred milliamps (970's+).
sorry, gotta stop blabbing!

[Q] Is any kind of fast charging possible?

Team,
First off, I want to say thank you for creating an amazing resource for these phones. I currently have a Galaxy S4 Active MF3. I bought the phone with the intent of using it in conjunction with my car stereo, which is a Pioneer 8500 BHS. I've paired this up with a Samsung MHL 2.0 adapter and ARLiberator. On top of this, I have installed a OBD-II bluetooth module in the car that also communicates with the phone. The end result is that the phone delivers full touch screen control of all apps on the phone, full bluetooth hands free calling, voice control, GPS (Tom Tom), Pandora, and most importantly, gives me a second dashboard where I can customize any gauge that the car did not offer stock, such as boost gauge, wideband air/fuel ratio, exhaust gas temperature, and a few other things. I'm using the full version of Torque to do this. It is amazingly useful, with one exception. The Samsung MHL adapter never lets the phone charge at more than 300 milliamps. The USB connection straight from the stereo charges at 900, and a 2.1 AMP charger with the Samsung cable will charge at 1900. However, regardless of the combination I use, the MHL always cuts this down to 300. This causes the phone to lose about 15-20% of it's charge every hour. For short trips, this is OK, but for longer trips, I can no longer use GPS, which is a big problem, as that's the whole reason I got the phone. Other users of the standard Galaxy S4 and this combination have been able to get around this issue by installing a ROM with Fast Charge enabled, which gives them 800 milliamps. This is just enough to let the phone be used and slowly charged at the same time.
I understand that currently we're limited to stock kernels with modifications layered on top (GoldenEye, ETC...), and that the Fast Charge code requires a kernel recompile in order to function. Is this correct? Do I have any other options? I've considered wiring in a wireless charger just to get the phone to charge on long trips, but I'm concerned that wireless charging in addition to the USB input and charge may cause the battery to overheat or reduce it's life.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Matt

as far as I know, there is a possibility of welding a 100 Ohm (or just short circuit (more risky, but I've read that some guys using a standard usb cable with simple bypassed Data-wires in combination with the S4A)) between the D+ and D+ wires of the USB-Cable (should be the green and white wire within the cable). Regarding http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs a resistance below 200 ohm is the sign for a dedicated charging cable/device.
I've seen a manual of an sgs user, having full loading speed in his car, using a modified cable. Unfortunately his manual is in German, u can find it here. All credits belong to him.
by the way, i am pretty sure u will find an similar manual within this xda-board using the right search patterns, cause It does not seem to be device related.

shaDNfro,
Thank you very much for your reply, but unfortunately the 'cable mod' will not work in this instance. The reason that it won't work is that the stereo needs the Data + and Data - for Audio and synchronization data being sent back to the headunit for broadcast, and the MHL blocks the D+ and D- resistance from reaching the phone. To verify this, I took a stock Samsung cable with a voltage inverter in the car, and wired the whole system up into the MHL adapater. The system still charges at 300 ma, despite the fact that I can plug the same cable going into the MHL directly into the phone and get 1900 ma. If I use a 'modded' cable without the inverter, then the MHL still charges at 300 ma, but AppRadio will not function, as it gets no signal from the data ports on the USB. To add insult to injury, the MHL input is a 12 pin interface, and shunting D+ and D- cables on the MHL output is dangerous, as the system is doing more with the 12 pins than a standard 4 pin USB. I really don't want to fry a 400+ dollar phone.
What we really need here is one of two things:
1. The ability to upload a recompiled kernel into the system (I know that we have a bounty on this and it's not going anywhere)
2. The ability to modify the input amperage without a recompiled kernel
I'm not sure if either of the above two things can be done. I'm either going to have to live with this or get a new phone.
If ANYONE has any other ideas, please let me know!
Matt

Is it possible to mod usb cable to take the power directly from car charger?
Connect usb chargin wires to car charger from phones end of usb??
Sent from my GT-I9295 using poor english.

Vaiski said:
Is it possible to mod usb cable to take the power directly from car charger?
Connect usb chargin wires to car charger from phones end of usb??
Sent from my GT-I9295 using poor english.
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Click to collapse
Vaiski,
That's not a bad idea! From some more of my recent research, it appears that I now have three options I can look into:
1. Vaiski's idea of adding a 2.1 AMP second USB line to the + and - phone input while cutting the current MHL + and - cable output. This would essentially allow the MHL to get its power from the stereo's USB input, and the phone to get its power from an external, high amperage USB line and still allow me to keep the data flowing between the phone, MHL adapter, and stereo. I've got a second 'generic' MHL adapter that I wouldn't mind cutting up to spare my $50.00 Samsung MHL adapter if this doesn't work. This wouldn't allow the system to get the full 1900 ma, but it should get me upwards of 300 ma, which is where I am now.
2. I can add a wireless charger into the mix. From what I've read, if you charge with USB and wireless charging at the same time, the wireless charging would take priority. This would give me the same results as option #1.
3. I can try using the samsung S4 Multimedia dock. It appears that the dock doesn't have the same voltage output limitations as the MHL adapter. It does cost $100.00, though, and it's rather bulky.
These are all really great ideas, but what really bothers me about all this is that it shouldn't be necessary. If Samsung/AT&T hadn't installed a bootloader kernel checksum, none of this would matter. I could simply put a custom kernel in and call it a day with my current hardware. Hopefully someone will crack the bootloader soon. That would really be the best option instead of being locked into 4.2.2.
Thanks again!
Matt

s4 active charging
mattb22 said:
Vaiski,
Thanks again!
Matt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know whether or not you found a solution to your problem yet. I discovered same problem using stock charging cable and having Bluetooth, Wi-Fi amd GPS turned on, playing music through usb to a pioneer stereo.... no Bluetooth on stereo, but was using a BT hands-free device. Anyway, same problem as you, charger wouldn't keep up. Tried turning off Wi-Fi... had mobile hotspot turned on for wife's tablet, helped some but still drained faster than charged. A couple months ago, I couldn't find the factory charging/data cable and phone needed charging, so I tried a cable from one of those battery powered phone chargers, thing is only about a foot long, but phone said "charging" it went from about 30% to full in less than an hour, this phone has never charged that fast. I've experimented with it a bit, and it won't work as a data cable but it will keep up with everything turned on. I don't know if it's the length of the cable, or if the pins on the cable are different, in any case, try different cables, if you only need charge while your driving then the lack of data won't be a problem, though I liked being able to charge and listen to music at the same time, I'd rather know that my phone won't be dead when I get to the other end of a long road trip.... besides I figured out that a flash drive plugged into stereo plays music better.
Hope this helps

[Review] Meenova Ultimus Wireless Charging dock and USB 2.0 Hub

Disclaimer: I was given these items at a large discount for my honest and unbiased feedback/review.
Meenova
Ultimus Qi Wireless Charging Dock
The Ultimus dock looks like it is made out of brushed aluminum; however, it is actually made entirely out of plastic. I was a little disappointed to see this when I first took it out of the box since I expected a much better feeling item from Meenova. The dock honestly feels cheap no matter how you decide to look at it. It does feature and adjustable plastic base that makes it more versatile so your phone should be able to line up. I did find a small issue with this set up; since the base (shelf the phone sits on) can move it tends to creek & flex when you place your phone down on it. I had to use the lowest setting on it for the S7 Edge which might not bode well if you have a phone like the Note 5 or Nexus 6. If the phones coil were lower and it had to be raised upwards, I don’t think the charger would be stable since it rocks a little bit right now. The bottom of the charger does have a ‘tacky’ piece of material on the bottom to keep it from sliding around your desk like other chargers I have seen. It works well enough to not have the charger fall over when I place my S7 Edge down on it and Meenova includes 2 spare ones in the box just in case the original one wears out over time. Despite the charger being made of out plastic, and feeling a little rickety the brushed metal finish does have a nice texture to it.
What’s in the box:
-Ultimus Qi Wireless Charging Dock
-Micro-USB cable
-2x spare ‘tacky’ bottom pads
-Documentation
On the backside you will find a micro-USB input port that you can use to plug in the included micro-USB cable. Since the charger operates at the standard qi speed of 5V/1A, it doesn’t require a higher output wall adapter like some of the newer 10W+ wireless chargers do. When charging your phone, the viewing angle it gives you is nice and isn’t as steep as TYLT’s 45 degree one. The charger will take your S7 Edge about 3.5-4.5 hours to fully charge depending on how low your phones battery is.
Input rating, and base height settings
Micro-USB input
'Tacky bottom' with the plastic still on it
Side View
Front View
Base view with the plastic still on it
Charging
Overall:
I’m not a fan of the cheap feeling build this charger has compared to all of Meevoa’s other excellent products that I have. I’m going to keep it on my desk, and update this review if anything changes, breaks etc. over time.
Meenova
USB 2.0 Hub with Micro-USB charging
This little hub is unique in the sense that it offers both micro-USB ports alongside conventional USB ports that can be used for data transfer. The little hub isn’t designed to charge your phone, or anything that requires a huge power draw due to its limited 5V/2A input. Each port is limited to a 5V/0.5A output on the hub which makes sense given its 5V/2A input rating.
The hub does support data transfer, so you can charge a pair of Bluetooth headphones while plugging in a mouse or other peripheral for example. I don’t have too many devices that I could use the micro-USB ports to charge other than some headphones. I have a Surface Pro 4 which is what I tested the hub on. My SP4 is docked with Microsoft’s Surface dock which gives it addition ports/power to tap in to. I believe these ports are limited to 5V/1A or somewhere in that range. If I try to pull too much power from the port via this hub, or any other device it will deactivate my port until I reboot my Surface. For this reason, I only recommend using the data transfer USB ports for flash drives, or related devices, and the micro-USB ports for low power charging such as Bluetooth headphones. I didn’t have any issues using it to charge the mentioned headphones (Bose QC 20 2015 model, and my Samsung Level U Pro BT headphones). The Samsung Level U Pro headphones will not fit with the way the micro-USB port is oriented, but I can still use the regular USB port to charge it via a micro-USB cable.
What’s in the box:
-USB 2.0 Hub
-Micro-USB Cable
-Documentation
On the underside of the hub there is the same ‘tacky’ type base that will prevent the hub from sliding around your desk. I haven’t found any issues with it moving around so far, but I’ve only used it for a day or so now. As with the Ultimus Qi Dock, the hub is made out of plastic, but it feels significantly more sturdy in comparison.
Top
Front
Back
Bottom
Charging my Bose QC 20's
Overall:
I think this is a good little charging station for small devices like headphones if you are looking for a compact solution that doubles as an additional USB port for your computer. I use it to charge my Samsung Level U Pro BT headphones (not via the micro-USB port) and my Bose QC 20 noise canceling ones while I’m at my desk. I don’t use the USB 2.0 ports for data transfer since I normally just plug my USB 3.0 devices into my Surface dock for the faster transfer speeds. If you don’t need the speed (when plugging in BT mouse, or the S7 Edge for example), then the USB 2.0 ports will function just fine.

Mate 10 cradle/desktop stand and keep supercharge?

I'm looking for a cradle/desktop stand for the Mate 10 and can continue to use supercharge.
Anyone found one that exists? thanks

Not exactly what you asked for but these are the items I use, might work for you?
The port adaptor doesn't allow super charge but it can get up to 1200ma
Usage:
Connect my phone to the TV via HDMI streaming Udemy or Amazon prime for 2 hours and it easily charges the phone in the process, or playing games like Modern Combat 5 via HDMI & Bluetooth controller.
Also use it to backup the phone to USB drive, also charges the phone whilst doing so
Adaptor:
JAVONTEC USB C to HDMI Adapter with USB 3.0 Port and USB-C Power Delivery, USB C Hub for Surface Go, Dell XPS, HP Spectre, Chromebook Pixel, Samsung S8/S9, LG G5 More https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0784GC6GD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qLTbCbJK79Q0S
Stand:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/113038898134
Sent from my BLA-L09 using Tapatalk

Just bought this for the time being until something better comes along.
https://i.imgur.com/pMnqwU4.jpg

alfienoakes63 said:
Just bought this for the time being until something better comes along.
https://i.imgur.com/pMnqwU4.jpg
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Click to collapse
You just need to use your normal supercharge cable and brick... i dont understand to be honest. The charger is not connected to the stand in any way is it?

I am using the original charger and brick but I'd like to be able to plonk my phone on a charging stand without having to manually attach/detach the lead.
Like you can with this:-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Charging-Y...544215428&sr=8-7&keywords=usb+c+docking+stand
...but keep supercharge.

I don't think USB-Ports are plonkable (even USB-C, which slides rather well compared to asymmetric mini/midi-USB) -- for plonkability you'd need either another interface or a cradle that guides the phone very snug on a straight path for at least 1 cm or so. And even with a perfectly guiding/sliding cradle you'd have to push the last millimetres for the plug to click (vice versa when "undocking" again).
There are magnetic plugs for all kind of USB charging ports that are plugged into said port (and left there) and will snap to their respective (kinda proprietary) magnetic charging cable. However, first and obviously, such a plug blocks the USB port it is plugged into (so you'd have to remove the tiny thing everytime you want to plug in headphones or whatever); second, I've yet to find one that supports Huawei Supercharge (or whatsitcalledagain).

Razer Mamba Wireless - The Worst Mouse in History

I bought the Razer Mamba Wireless, in an attempt to switch to a wireless mouse and free up space on my desktop. This mouse is terrible. The first thing I noticed was the battery does not last longer than a day, maybe a day and a half. This results in me having to keep the charging cable nearby, completely voiding the point of having a wireless mouse. I find myself plugging it in to charge it, every time I step away from my computer.
The next problem is the battery and RGB features. In order to see the battery percentage on your mouse, you have to sign up for an account with Razer and install their terrible software. Their software prevents my computer from sleeping properly, so I always have to make sure I close out of it, after checking my battery level. Any RGB features also require an account to be able to control them.
This mouse feels very cheap for the price. It's a $50 mouse, but I spent $100 back when it was new. Feels like it's made out of potato chips. I'm very confident I could crush this mouse in one hand.
I would not recommend this mouse to anyone. You'll find better quality in those little $10 mice they sell for laptops.

XDARoni said:
I bought the Razer Mamba Wireless, in an attempt to switch to a wireless mouse and free up space on my desktop. This mouse is terrible. The first thing I noticed was the battery does not last longer than a day, maybe a day and a half. This results in me having to keep the charging cable nearby, completely voiding the point of having a wireless mouse. I find myself plugging it in to charge it, every time I step away from my computer.
The next problem is the battery and RGB features. In order to see the battery percentage on your mouse, you have to sign up for an account with Razer and install their terrible software. Their software prevents my computer from sleeping properly, so I always have to make sure I close out of it, after checking my battery level. Any RGB features also require an account to be able to control them.
This mouse feels very cheap for the price. It's a $50 mouse, but I spent $100 back when it was new. Feels like it's made out of potato chips. I'm very confident I could crush this mouse in one hand.
I would not recommend this mouse to anyone. You'll find better quality in those little $10 mice they sell for laptops.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did u got refund at least

XDARoni said:
I bought the Razer Mamba Wireless, in an attempt to switch to a wireless mouse and free up space on my desktop. This mouse is terrible. The first thing I noticed was the battery does not last longer than a day, maybe a day and a half. This results in me having to keep the charging cable nearby, completely voiding the point of having a wireless mouse. I find myself plugging it in to charge it, every time I step away from my computer.
The next problem is the battery and RGB features. In order to see the battery percentage on your mouse, you have to sign up for an account with Razer and install their terrible software. Their software prevents my computer from sleeping properly, so I always have to make sure I close out of it, after checking my battery level. Any RGB features also require an account to be able to control them.
This mouse feels very cheap for the price. It's a $50 mouse, but I spent $100 back when it was new. Feels like it's made out of potato chips. I'm very confident I could crush this mouse in one hand.
I would not recommend this mouse to anyone. You'll find better quality in those little $10 mice they sell for laptops.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The gold standard in mice is the MX Master. Just get that and you don't need to be so fancy.

svetius said:
The gold standard in mice is the MX Master. Just get that and you don't need to be so fancy.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I personally don't think there is a gold standard at the moment as we're going through a period of time where mouse technology is going through a rebirth lol.
The wired Razer Viper happens to support up to an 8000hz polling rate! All mice before that capped out at 1000hz (or lower)! But with higher display resolutions and refresh rates, even the 1000hz mice are starting to cause some input lag and mouse tracking inaccuracy.
So sure, if you're just using the computer for work this isn't really a big deal. But if you move your mouse around a lot (and quickly- which always happens during gaming), this is a very noticeable problem if you have the right hardware to run into the issue (the right hardware being anything manufactured within the last 4-5 years). So moving forward, this problem will only get worse if the mouse feature development (and Windows USB prioritization) isn't optimized moving forward.
So IMO, any mice with a higher polling rate would be the best type to acquire right now (granted, it'd only be important if you use higher mouse sensitivities, use a 2k resolution display with high refresh rate or play games) as it'll be slightly future-proofed =P.

My favorite is still the Logitech Trackman Marble Trackball Mouse. Ergonomic, fast, good switches, long lived and sits still.
Hardwired is still the best.
​

XDARoni said:
I bought the Razer Mamba Wireless, in an attempt to switch to a wireless mouse and free up space on my desktop. This mouse is terrible. The first thing I noticed was the battery does not last longer than a day, maybe a day and a half. This results in me having to keep the charging cable nearby, completely voiding the point of having a wireless mouse. I find myself plugging it in to charge it, every time I step away from my computer.
The next problem is the battery and RGB features. In order to see the battery percentage on your mouse, you have to sign up for an account with Razer and install their terrible software. Their software prevents my computer from sleeping properly, so I always have to make sure I close out of it, after checking my battery level. Any RGB features also require an account to be able to control them.
This mouse feels very cheap for the price. It's a $50 mouse, but I spent $100 back when it was new. Feels like it's made out of potato chips. I'm very confident I could crush this mouse in one hand.
I would not recommend this mouse to anyone. You'll find better quality in those little $10 mice they sell for laptops.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see