[SOLVED] Pebble Time (Steel) - what kind of microswitch is needed? - Pebble

Hello,
Some time ago I managed to buy a working second-hand "Pebble Time Steel"... well, almost working. The watch succeeded to connect via bluetooth, showed information on screen properly, was responsive. The only things that worked wrong was the almost worn battery and non-working "back" button.
I like PTS, it has some unique functions that modern smartwatches miss... so I decided to repair it and use as my primary watch.
Never mind the battery, the new one is on its way from Aliexpress. The "back" button however is a big challenge. The previous owner tried to repair it, but he didn't succeed. The only goal he managed was to solder out the microswitch and... leave an empty space. So right now I have PTS with a working motherboard and empty space where the microswitch was.
I tried to find out what type of microswitch it is. Hours of searching internet and online catalogues returned poor results. The only switch that is close to the size of the original was Omron B3U-3000P-B, but it is still a bit too big. A bit risky to use it due to the SMD resistor placed close to the switch. The original switch is 3mm in width, 2mm deep and 2mm high.
Can you please help me to find the appropriate model of the switch?
There is also another way... does somebody have a broken "Pebble Time" or "Pebble Time Steel" motherboard to sell? I could use switch to replace it to my PTS board.
Here are some photos:
- The first photo shows the motherboard, the arrow points the empty space
- The second photo shows one of the other switches
- The third photo shows the front of the switch - there is a black micro knob mounted to the golden spring circle
Sorry for the poor sharpness, my phone doesn't have "macro" mode.

Welcome to XDA.
This device dates back to when?
This site may have a plan if you contact them if the watch dates back 6+ years.
Conversely buying a parts queen cheap might work but you better have excellent desoldering/ soldering skills. These pcbs are easily damaged.
Digikey or Mouser Electronics may have something that small. You need to know what type of switch it is ie NC or NO, single pole etc.
No easy task...

OK, I contacted Rebble Discord and they really helped. Just for your information if someone needs it: this is the Panasonic TACT switch of "EVPAV" series. Right now there is only one model available (EVPAVAA1A) that is a bit thinner than the original Pebble one, but I will find a way to solder it properly.
You can close this thread.

ravan70 said:
You can close this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thread closed at the OP's request.

Related

TyTN II Screen Broken.... sort of

Hi All
Spent awhile searching the forums (and the web) but couldn't find any relevant answers -- so here goes & apologies if it has been up before...
My TyTN2 got rain on the screen a few days ago (about 15-20 drops) and since then the touch part of the screen no longer works. The phone itself works perfectly, the screen displays everything as it should, but no touch.
Could a few raindrops do this?
I have a Hermes/TyTN 'lying around', anyone know if the screens are the same/compatible, was about to start searching for part numbers etc. but thought I'd ask the question anyway.
Any help, answers, pointers or links would be appreciated.
TIA
You could always buy a new touch screen.
I saw one at dealextreme.com for 4.99 , probably not the best quality but you can always give it a try for that price
sku.14919
cnn.cn also has the part , but only in combo with the actual lcd screen.
Thanks RacerII -- will check it out..
Had a similar issue with the touch screen dying after an os crash the other night n thought it was dead. Did a hard reset and reflashed and everything worked just fine. Try the hard reset and reflash first before you think about any repair options
@kaalgoosy
Thanks for the reply -- did a hard reset as you suggested, no change -- about to try a reflash -- currently using L26's B1 ROM, have dl'd B4 and will give that a whirl -- only problem seems to be I have to bypass the Welcome/Screen Alignment section (no touchscreen!) and Activesync seems to be lacking/missing/not working -- so can only try the SD method -- just reading up on that now
ROM update made no difference (wasn't holding my breath anyway...)
Looks like a screen replacement, after looking at the potential difficulties separating the digitiser from the LCD, decided a straight LCD replacement is my best option -- have found a place that will supply it (London UK) for £30 + p&p -- anyone know of a better (read cheaper) supplier?
Intending to use Mike Channon's guide to replace it myself...
no few drops of rain wont cause that damage...
most new PDAs and new gadgets in general including cams, portable ps... etc has a elements of water resistant+shock resistant and even an anti-magnetic field absorbtion (or something like) to reduce interference with other devices...
blackfoot said:
My TyTN2 got rain on the screen a few days ago (about 15-20 drops) and since then the touch part of the screen no longer works. The phone itself works perfectly, the screen displays everything as it should, but no touch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
there must be another reason cuz first sign of water damage will be blurry display..
blackfoot said:
the screen displays everything as it should, but no touch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
get your phone inspected by a professional technician especially if under warranty (dont tell them it was affected by rain drops.. they wont know) it might not be a very fair thing to say but again who said life is fair
blackfoot said:
ROM update made no difference (wasn't holding my breath anyway...)
Looks like a screen replacement, after looking at the potential difficulties separating the digitiser from the LCD, decided a straight LCD replacement is my best option -- have found a place that will supply it (London UK) for £30 + p&p -- anyone know of a better (read cheaper) supplier?
Intending to use Mike Channon's guide to replace it myself...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you got a web address for the London supplier? I think my screen may be on the way out.
Good luck with the replacement.
@jahrami -- was using the Kaiser's camera to take some photos for my daughter, it started raining while I was taking the last couple. 15-20 drops or so (as I said). Dabbed this off with kitchen roll, put the phone away. Got home a little later, tried to use the phone, no touch -- played around, soft reset etc etc, but nothing.
The rain is the only thing that has happened to it -- the display is perfect, phone itself works perfectly, have hard-reset, reflashed ROM, still no touch control... and while in theory I agree with you that a few drops of rain _shouldn't_ cause this sort of damage, it seems it has. Checked the water damage strip behind the battery, it's white, assume this goes pink/blue or WHY when exposed to real amounts of water.
Sadly, warranty is out (by 1 month) & the local phone shops want £40 to strip it and look... £32 for a screen? I'll do it myself -- if it doesn't fix it, back to the Eten M700...
@ach2 -- tried to put a complete & direct link to the item, message box wouldn't accept it (very long url). This company sells on ebay too, slightly cheaper (27.99 +p&p) and under various other site names, feedback is positive and screens are new. Can't comment on the company personally, unless you wait for a week. Thanks for the good wishes, will probably need them.
http://www.sparepartsformobiles.com search for Kaiser LCD replacement.
OP:
Before you buy anything for 27 quid: Note that there are 2 elements to that screen, as was mentioned (but maybe not quite clear) in post 2. There is the actual screen, which is a liquid crystal screen with thin film transistors with a glass plate on top, but on top of that is a digitizer. The digitizer is literally 2 sheets of slightly conductive plastic put together to assess where the stylus (or your finger) is currently touching it.
The digitizer shouldn't cost you more than about 5-10 quid. The full screen is going to cost you about 30 quid. You definitely don't need a new screen.
I've replaced 2 digitizers and 1 full screen on my HTC magician (I'm very good at smashing it into things) and after I broke it again, I bought a used HTC tilt cause I felt that an upgrade was in order. I ordered the digitizers for the magician and the screens from a generic eBay store in Hong Kong, it arrived the US (Boston) after about 2 weeks, I would expect Old Blighty to be similar.
Greetings from "New" England.
lncdoc
One more suggestion for you: have you considered using a virtual mouse cursor program? Maybe VirtuaMouse One-Hand?
Of course it won't actually "fix" your screen, but at least you'll be able to tap around your PPC until you fix the touch panel itself.
i will agree with such a temporarily fix, use a combination of virtual mouse
and voice commander and hotkeys shortcuts to navigate through your phone
look for second hand screen, there must be some around dude
EGMine said:
One more suggestion for you: have you considered using a virtual mouse cursor program? Maybe VirtuaMouse One-Hand?
Of course it won't actually "fix" your screen, but at least you'll be able to tap around your PPC until you fix the touch panel itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
blackfoot said:
Looks like a screen replacement, after looking at the potential difficulties separating the digitiser from the LCD, decided a straight LCD replacement is my best option
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@incdoc -- Greetings to you too, cousin -- yes I do realise the screen has a separate digitiser (see quote above from earlier post), and in fact, the same supplier has digitisers for £8 but after reading about the difficulties of separating the digitiser from the LCD thought I would save time, effort and money by replacing the LCD in its entirety. I can always play with the older one afterwards, and if I successfully split them will get a touch screen and keep the thing as a spare, which seems like a good idea, as there are now several more posts regarding the same or similar issues to mine, just within the last few days.
Are you suggesting that separation _isn't_ difficult?
@EGMine -- have to say that I haven't heard of VirtuaMouse One-Hand, will look it up -- thanks for the suggestion.
Jahrami -- thanks for the suggestion, about to check VirtuaMouse and completely forgot about Voice Commander, just changed my ROM to L26's B4, (after fault developed) so haven't set the phone up, yet -- but definitely will set up some voice tags.
Big thank you (for telling me something I should have thought of myself -- age really is a bummer!)
Edit** Dl'd trial of VirtuaMouse, good idea -- hard work! Combination of Voice Tags and scroll wheel much better. Eten M700 back in cupboard. ;-))
Dammit, dammit and dammit!
In the interest of rounding things off -- thought I'd post this to (almost) end my (little) epic.
Bought a replacement screen from the source listed above, £32, web price was lower with free shipping, but phoned the order through to get a quicker delivery. Arrived the next day, exactly as ordered. (Bravo!) No tools included, but I have some anyway.
Used Mike Channons guide to replacement (no mention of the sticky keyboard hinge 'finisher' anywhere BTW), all went as planned. Total time to replace about 1hr 15mins. (Not rushing)
Screen kicked in, onto alignment and yippee! -- touch working again!
Knew I shouldn't have had that celebratory cup of tea! -- put SIM in, followed by SD card, phone no longer recognises the SIM. Bu**er!
Stripped the phone again (impressed myself, took less than 10 minutes), checked to see if the SIM ribbon had popped off -- seemed ok, but popped it and reseated it anyway. Reassembled the phone, popped in the SIM -- Bu**er again.
Stripped the phone again (4 minutes -- not bad eh?), checked the SIM connection to the keypad PCB and 2 of the contacts in the socket look slightly mangled.
At this point now I'm wishing I'd gone for the £70 repair option, it's 20 to 1 in the morning (12:40 am to you), the eyes are a little fuzzy and I (once again) have a TyTNII 'kit' in front of me.
Oh well, there's always tomorrow -- now where did I put my Eten M700?
EDIT** Forgot to add a request, if anyone has a TyTNII in bits and wants to sell the keypad PCB, leave info or PM. Thanks.
EDIT 2** Oh well, seems like I _have_ kiboshed the SIM socket on the keypad PCB -- so hoping someone has one (keypad PCB or TyTNII) lying around will sell for bits?

URGENT - Help with Replace

Hi . I'm going to replace my vox for TyTn 2 (!) . I need to know , what I need to check if i want to avoid sending phone to services (I think Construction , some problems like bad joystick ... ) ?
i purchased my kaiser brand new in may 2008...so you will probably get better advice from those that have gotten refurbished or second hand units.
anyway, heres a list of items you might want to check (based on my own observations as well as based on the readings/reports of various issues i've read about here on the forum):
1. hardware keys should work 100%. some users buying off ebay, for example, report that the phone works and the FRONT buttons work but the slide out keyboard is shot. just an example, it could be the other way around. but the point is to check and make sure each and every button works.
2. usb connector should work 100%. best way to check is to see if the phone can establish an activesync connection (with a known working cable) and if the orange charging LED lights up. next, hook up a wired headset (that is known to work correctly) to see if the pins for the audio signals are functioning on the usb connector. long press the button on the wired headset to see if the device starts to dial the last number dialed.
3. look out for "dead pixels". there should be NONE. because the kaiser has a relatively low resolution screen with less pixel density, i don't think it is acceptable for there to be ANY dead pixel at all because even one can become an eye sore. a quick way to check is to bring up an all-black screen and see if all the pixels are black. next, bring up an all-white screen and see if all pixels have turned white. also remember that sometimes dead pixels come and go. i've had TWO dead pixels during my ownership of the kaiser. one went away as soon as i flicked the device from the side and it never came back. another one lasted for a week and had me quite worried because it happened after my warranty period was over. i tried "dead pixel 'sweepers'" and maybe they helped because that particular dead pixel also eventually went away after a week and never reappeared.
4. scratches on the camera lens. note that the kaiser has a plastic lens "cover" on the back cover of the device. this part is known to get easily scratched and i don't think it is reasonable to be anal about this part. HOWEVER, if you take the back cover OFF, then the actual camera lens underneath the back cover should be spotless. check BOTH cameras to see if they work and can capture decent images (test the main camera with the back cover OFF to get better results).
5. the slide mechanism should be relatively "solid". look for distortions on the image displayed on the screen as you slide. ensure that the sim remains detectable when the keyboard is slid out. ensure that the front buttons work when the keyboard is slid out. ensure that the microsd card slot continues to work when the keyboard is slid out. all of the above mentioned items are connected to the main motherboard via "ribbon cables" (hidden underneath the sliding mechanism) and sliding out the keyboard can cause faulty ribbon cables to act up. look out for that!
6. make sure the status/notification LEDs work. read the WIKI/manual for information about the normal/expected behavior of the LEDs.
7. the earpiece should work. the loudspeaker should work. the microphone should work.
8. the touch screen should work! try out bubblebreaker so that you can check the responsiveness of the screen across its entire surface. recalibrate the screen if you have to. remember, the kaiser's touch screen can occasionally be a bit fussy if a screen protector is present.
9. look for obvious scratches/damage to the screen and body. try to see if the damage really matters to you (as an eyesore) or to the device (can it affect the device's normal functioning?).
10. check the water exposure stickers under the battery to make sure they have not turned a pinkish color. if they are pink, there is a chance that the device was exposed to some amount (or a lot of) water in the past. while you're at it, check the battery contacts for corrosion (might cause power issues later) and check the battery compartment for any signs that a previous battery may have leaked (extremely unlikely). who knows, maybe the owner had it properly serviced after the water exposure so no harm in asking. if properly serviced at the right time after water exposure, there have been many success stories here on the forum of the device continuing its normal functioning.
ummm thats about it from my side, hope this helps!
TYVM ... i have this phone ... I'm really exited . I'm going to do Hard SPL tomorrow ... I want some good rom ... so what is fast ... and have that D3D driver ??
congratulations!
i answered your original question because it was a bit of a unique question.
but your second question about "which ROM is good and fast" cannot be answered by anyone except for YOURSELF. go ahead and explore the Kaiser ROM Development Section. read about some of the ROMs that seem to interest you. try out a few of them and see what you like and dislike. good luck!
OK ... can you tell me ... what does thet D3D driver ??? and why 101 MB ram and D3D not working together ???
And one more thing ... i try ANYTHING but i cannot set up android and run it .... And also I don't know how to make that default.txt
And can you explain me this ??? : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL8uq4FtduY
didoop said:
OK ... can you tell me ... what does thet D3D driver ??? and why 101 MB ram and D3D not working together ???
And one more thing ... i try ANYTHING but i cannot set up android and run it .... And also I don't know how to make that default.txt
And can you explain me this ??? : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL8uq4FtduY
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How about you do some searching and explain it yourself or post in threads related to your topic.
ASCIIker isn't your personal guide through this site.

An-Drone Project

Hey all! So as a bit of a computer/tablet/phone geek and and a bit of an RC Hobbyist, Ive decided to take on a little personal project to combine the two. At least a little bit to start. In the world of RC quadcopters (aka drones) the big thing that everyone is into is buying these expensive 1080P/4k go pros and other gimbal devices to record video. But not only do we want to record, we want to be able to view a live stream of what the drone sees. You can buy these FPV Cameras on the higher end for $500+.
When I bought ny first drone a fair sized flyer at nearly 2ft diameter, my first flight I decided to strap my old Galaxy S3 to the bottom and catch some cool video. Everything went well, and the video was high def and crystal clear. While there are FPV apps such as AirBoss available, unfortunately its a bit glitchy and crashes often so i didnt bother with FPV, just hit record and flew. After this I decided to start looking into purchasing a gimbal and maybe a gopro hero 3. Seems a bit silly buying a $400 camera to carry on a $100 drone, but I considered it and started browsing.
Before buying anything, I had a buddy want to see the drone fly, so on a semi full charge, I took it up, no phone attached, and after about a minute of flight, the battery went low, lost contact with the controller and helplessly watched it drift into the woods, still haven't found it.
So now instead of looking for an expensive camera, im looking to strip down my old s3 and use it as a camera, but also as a GPS locator, which will have data/gsm/gprs connections. The idea being, that not only a does screen less, make shift house, remotely controlled android device act as a camera, but it can be called from another phone (making it easy to track via sound) or worst case scenario be pin pointed on Google maps, in the event of another downed drone.
I have all the apps installed to make this work exactly how I need it to and want it to. In fact I already have the motherboard stripped out of the housing, and am able to do exactly what I want, except one thing.
The only way the phone will turn on, is with the main components from the screen housing plugged in. Its one ribbon, but its the ribbon the feeds the Screen, the digitizer the home, back and menu buttons and the micro phone and the vibrator pod. All of the components on the back side of the board, the front and rear facing cameras, the sim/tf card readers, the loud speaker, led, volume rocker etc can be disconected, as long as the main ribbon for the screen is attached, the motherboard will boot. After booting I can unplug the ribbon, and the phone will remain on, with everything working that I need to work, including remote access.
I guess the main question here is, how can I trick the phone into thinking the main ribbon is attached? Once I can get it to boot up without it being attached to that ribbon I can begin building a lightweight housing for the board and camer and a smaller battery. I thought about cutting the ribbon and just leaving it attached to the board, my only problem with that is IF it wont boot after doing that, I cant just repair the ribbon and I dont have a spare s3 for parts, which would pretty much leave me with nothing but a dead s3 in pieces lol.
I know most of what xda deals with is software development, but im hoping someone has tinkered with hard ware before. Sorry for the novel, just wanted to cover the details and eliminate getting asked why I want to do this. And for the record I want the s3 screen and housing gone for the simple fact that I can cut the weight from abouy 150 grams to less than 30 grams, which is a huge factor when flying quad copters

(Q) Camera pictures are blurry on the left edge

I bought this phone last year to test AT&T's coverage, but am considering promoting it to a more permanent position, so I am finally looking into some of its problems. This phone's camera takes pictures that are clear in the center, but blurry on the left (or top, when shooting in portrait) 20-35%, no matter what. There is a noteworthy dent on the back cover, so the question is if it is more likely that the problem is caused by the bent cover or by damage to the camera module itself. Any ideas?
Either way, you'll have to remove cover, so when you do, take a picture without it. If the problem goes away, it's the back case, replace it.
If not, it might be the camera module, replace it. Either is pretty cheap on Ali, but if you remove the back cover, order a new one. It's almost impossible to remove it without damaging it.
Good idea; will try!
daedric said:
Either way, you'll have to remove cover, so when you do, take a picture without it. If the problem goes away, it's the back case, replace it.
If not, it might be the camera module, replace it. Either is pretty cheap on Ali, but if you remove the back cover, order a new one. It's almost impossible to remove it without damaging it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's pretty much what I was planning after researching things a bit. I'll order just a screen first, then dismantle the device and replace the screen, but hold off on putting the back cover on until test pictures have been taken. I'm excited to get this phone back into working shape!
There's A LOT of stuff you must remove from the screen, speakers, battery etc etc. It can be done, but pay attention.
Report back latter will you ?
Also, when you're putting the (new) back case on it, the top of the device goes first, not the bottom. Don't worry with the USB plug, worry with the power button/IR blaster and the top mic.
Not looking forward to it, but it should be an interesting experience
daedric said:
There's A LOT of stuff you must remove from the screen, speakers, battery etc etc. It can be done, but pay attention.
Report back later will you ?
Also, when you're putting the (new) back case on it, the top of the device goes first, not the bottom. Don't worry with the USB plug, worry with the power button/IR blaster and the top mic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll report back with the results either way. I have seen the videos showing how involved the process is and am not looking forward to it. This should prove to be an educational experience in surgical precision, keeping track of parts, not losing screws, and remembering what order things get installed.
1 down, 2 to go
Screen replacement was a success! :laugh: But wow, that was a lot of work. This has to be one of the most time-consuming screen replacements in the entire industry. As for the camera problem, the issue does persist with the back cover off, so it looks like I'll have to source a new camera module as well as a new back cover (which got slightly damaged in the process).
I'll upload some photos as the project progresses.
Fixed!... but with strings attached
Just to provide some closure for this fiasco, I did finally get the HTC One fixed and reassembled properly. Here's a quick recap:
Following the initial successful screen replacement, I bought a replacement camera module and back cover for the phone (because the problem persisted with the back cover off and because I had ruined the original back cover during the original disassembly). Upon installing both, I promptly reassembled the phone and discovered that the SIM card slot was no good on the replacement screen assembly. Talk about a major bummer!
From here, I was actually able to carefully remove the (shiny new!) back panel without causing any damage and requested a replacement screen assembly. Replacement was the wrong color. Two weeks later, the correct one finally came in, and I went through the (rather convoluted) procedure of painstakingly taking everything off of the screen assembly and placing it onto the replacement... again.
This time, everything worked, (including the SIM slot) so I slapped the back cover on, but was disappointed to find that the volume-down key had come out of alignment during the second back cover install. Also, the vibration motor had worked its way out of place and was rather noisy. For a third time, I ventured back in and managed to get the back cover off without causing much additional damage (there are some small marks on it now, but it still looks a heck of a lot better than it did before) and stuck some adhesive to the side of the motor in order to hold it into the slot better. I also performed the final snapping on of the back cover more carefully.
Finally, the phone is reassembled and fully functional. Camera photos no longer have a blurry edge, but are occasionally blurry either all over or in certain places. It is capable of taking completely clear shots though, which is interesting. Regardless, I've pretty much given up on getting this thing to perfection, and because of the fact that it isn't my daily driver, the camera not working right is not a dealbreaker. At any rate, it seems like finding a properly functioning camera module for this model is nearly impossible. Also, the right (bottom) speaker's volume is now sometimes a little quieter than the left (top) one, depending on the volume. As before, the MicroUSB connection still doesn't allow the cable to plug in all the way, which makes it really easy to accidentally disconnect, but it does still work fine.
With all that said, I've attached a picture of the repaired phone along with a new old-stock Incipio Feather grip casing that I found locally. The Incipio fits pretty nicely and I really like the feel of it, but debris sticks to it amazingly well. Even something as simple as wiping it with a cloth will leave behind a whole covfefe of specs. Liquid baptism and air drying is the only way to fully clean it.
TL;DR? Don't break your HTC One in a way that requires disassembly or repair. Ever. Even if the camera sucks, be thankful that it is fully functional (if it is). If you do attempt a repair operation of any kind, test the SIM card slot and camera (and speakers) fully before putting the thing back together and mind the volume keys as you put the back cover on.

Phone burst into flames during repair, need advice with new parts.

So, the screen on my Note 4X broke, and I wanted to replace it. Long story short, the battery is glued down hard as **** and I managed to damage it, and it burst into flames. I'm fine, I was prepared, nothing but the phone suffered any damage.
But now I'm sitting here, with a phone that's basically still fine minus the frame and the battery, and I still want to repair it.
I'm faced with two questions, first of all, I managed to find (I think) every part I need, but one eludes me. I don't even know what it's for. You can see it here (minute 9:11-9:27):
https://youtu.be/MQazwoEssN0?t=556
It says "C6_LEDFPC_V1.0" on mine. Google tells me nothing about that, and it's not a part I have seen on the repair shop sites. It doesn't even seem to be present on complete frame+display assemblies like this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LCD...edmi-Note-4X-hongmi-Red-Rise/32810566637.html
And apart from that, I wonder if I missed any part.
I still have:
A new display+digitizer, the back cover, the mainboard with the SoC and the two cameras, the PCB with the charging board, the battery cable, the sim tray, the fingerprint reader, the loudspeaker.
I need:
A new frame, an earpiece, the mainboard flex cable, the side key flex cable, a battery, and the one mysterious piece.
Is that everything? Does everyone has a basic list of all the parts?
anon768 said:
So, the screen on my Note 4X broke, and I wanted to replace it. Long story short, the battery is glued down hard as **** and I managed to damage it, and it burst into flames. I'm fine, I was prepared, nothing but the phone suffered any damage.
But now I'm sitting here, with a phone that's basically still fine minus the frame and the battery, and I still want to repair it.
I'm faced with two questions, first of all, I managed to find (I think) every part I need, but one eludes me. I don't even know what it's for. You can see it here (minute 9:11-9:27):
https://youtu.be/MQazwoEssN0?t=556
It says "C6_LEDFPC_V1.0" on mine. Google tells me nothing about that, and it's not a part I have seen on the repair shop sites. It doesn't even seem to be present on complete frame+display assemblies like this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LCD...edmi-Note-4X-hongmi-Red-Rise/32810566637.html
And apart from that, I wonder if I missed any part.
I still have:
A new display+digitizer, the back cover, the mainboard with the SoC and the two cameras, the PCB with the charging board, the battery cable, the sim tray, the fingerprint reader, the loudspeaker.
I need:
A new frame, an earpiece, the mainboard flex cable, the side key flex cable, a battery, and the one mysterious piece.
Is that everything? Does everyone has a basic list of all the parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been thinking that in the video, the guy switched on the phone without that part. so that part shouldn't be a very major component. In my opinion, it can be some sort of sensor. I personally feel its a magnet screen sensor for covers with smart wake up function.
The reason I say this is because when i touch a small magnet on the entire front panel, It gets stuck on that same point.
However I am not very sure as the smart wake is not triggered. Maybe it is because I am on LineageOS.
Hope It turns out helpful.
You will probably need the vibrator motor too, its quite small and easy to lose as I've found.
one like this:
link
That part is the LED for the capacitive buttons. Not important at all if you cant find it

Categories

Resources