Database Develop

X1 Charger specifications?

Hello,
I have been a victim of stolen bag recently.
Inside, among other things, was my original X1 wall charger, which is lost now.
At home I have a couple of other usb chargers but although they are 5V the Amber are different.
I know they work, but I prefer to use one closest to the original output for the wellness of battery.
(I slightly remember that the genuine charger was less than 1A)
Could someone pls check the original power adapter and tell me which exactly is the output?
(thanks in advance)

nek4d said:
Hello,
I have been a victim of stolen bag recently.
Inside, among other things, was my original X1 wall charger, which is lost now.
At home I have a couple of other usb chargers but although they are 5V the Amber are different.
I know they work, but I prefer to use one closest to the original output for the wellness of battery.
(I slightly remember that the genuine charger was less than 1A)
Could someone pls check the original power adapter and tell me which exactly is the output?
(thanks in advance)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
700ma. you don't have to keep close to the charger's specs other than the 5V. ampre rating is merely affects the speed of charging.
Just like how u charge from ur computer's usb port, you get maximum of 500mA /port anyway.

alvino said:
700ma. you don't have to keep close to the charger's specs other than the 5V. ampre rating is merely affects the speed of charging.
Just like how u charge from ur computer's usb port, you get maximum of 500mA /port anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you alvino!

Further to this question, can anyone tell me if a Blackberry In-Car Charger is OK with the X1?

Any usb port charger will work with your phone. Although, you might not wanna let your battery drain completely, one of the cells may fail and you'll get the dreaded "On button red light" syndrome... which I did. The main solution to that is to replace the battery. Considering the difficulties I've had, I'm sad I didn't pick a C905 instead

as long as it's 5volt it can be 1MEGA amp
amps are drawn not pushed
ohms law is
A = volt / Resistance
the device will draw as much as it require nothing more

It works just fine with my Zune charger, which is 5v 1.5A.

[Q] Is the Nook charger special?

I haven't seen a thread that addresses this specifically:
After reading the threads in this section, it seems that the consensus is that the "fast charging" aspect of the NC is based on extra pins in the special NC cable. When connected to any charger with 1.9amps or greater, you will get the fast charge.
My experience is different.
Using the OEM NC cable:
1. Connected to OEM charger, stock ROM - settings say charging, flashes an icon with charging percent on connection and removal
2. Connected to OEM charger, CM7 - settings say Charging (AC).
3. Connected to 2.1 and 2.0 amp chargers, stock - settings say Not Charging.
4. Connected to 2.1 and 2.0 amp chargers, CM7 - settings say Charging (USB)
Using the generic microusb cables (2 or 3 tried):
1. Connected to OEM charger, stock ROM - Can't remember, but not going back to stock!
2. Connected to OEM charger, CM7 - settings say Charging (AC).
3. Connected to 2.1 and 2.0 amp chargers, stock - settings say Not Charging.
4. Connected to 2.1 and 2.0 amp chargers, CM7 - settings say Charging (USB)
This seems to imply that the OEM charger is required to really use the extra pins in the NC OEM cable. Can anyone test and confirm this?
Alan

The nook charger puts out almost 2A of power, where normal usb chargers and ports on computer only put out 500mA. The cable that the nook comes with has some terminations in it that allow the nook to tell when it is connected to the nook charger. It will charge at a much faster rate when using the combination of the charger and cable that came with the nook. Replace either the cable or the charger with anything else and you get low power charging mode which is very slow.

Nook Charger
I keep seeing reports of people getting a fast charge using various other equipment, as long as the chargers are rated >= 1.9A.
Can anyone confirm or deny this? Any testing?

As long as a charger puts out near 2A of current, it should work. The charger itself is just a four pin USB charger. The cable itself... lots of pins in the connector to the NC.

FrayAdjacent said:
As long as a charger puts out near 2A of current, it should work. The charger itself is just a four pin USB charger. The cable itself... lots of pins in the connector to the NC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what everyone's been saying, but it doesn't work that way in my testing. I have tried 3rd party chargers that output 2.0 and 2.1A, using the OEM cable. None of them are recognized as an AC charger. If we knew how the NC knows when it's connected to the original charger, we could find a way to modify something available at WalMart to quick charge our NC's. There's plenty of Ipad chargers (2.1A) available. The one I have doesn't work, though.
Alan

Update to my previous post:
When I got home from work I tested my ipad charger (2.1A) with the nook color cable and it seemed to act like the nook charger. I did not think any charger but the nc one would work, but it seems it does.

I am jealous. My Ipad charger (OEM) paired with the nook cable shows Charging (USB) under Settings --->About Tablet--->Status. I would love know how to get it to say Charging (AC) .
Alan

Keep your eyes open people...as soon as I return to work and have extra cash I plan on ordering and tearing down a charger and cable. Many have noticed poor quality in the chargers..I'm gonna try to engineer an open DIY charger and cable replacement with better filtering components. Hopefully will be creating a thread with full details in 3 weeks...
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk

deadbot1 said:
Keep your eyes open people...as soon as I return to work and have extra cash I plan on ordering and tearing down a charger and cable. Many have noticed poor quality in the chargers..I'm gonna try to engineer an open DIY charger and cable replacement with better filtering components. Hopefully will be creating a thread with full details in 3 weeks...
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YAY! I have my soldering station warming up.
Cheers,
kev

yep, this is overdue...plugged in last night...almost burned my hand after an hour of charging. I keep my charger by the bed and the hum is just annoying when I'm feeling a bit restless.

Is there a way to identify problem chargers?
There must be some real inconsistency in the charger build quality. I've never noticed mine gets more than just a tiny bit warm and no humming. I wonder if there was a bad lot of them made? I was trying to look at the charger to see if there is a lot # or such, but can't tell what half the darned thing says. I'm posting a pic of the text on my charger in the hopes we can figure out if there is some way to identify problem chargers.
Edit: My nc came from WalMart.

Well there is a difference in the markings at least...The area circled in red...On mine it is R1101.
Still made in China
Edit: BTW my unit came from Walmart. Not sure if there would be any accounting for things like that.

deadbot1 said:
Keep your eyes open people...as soon as I return to work and have extra cash I plan on ordering and tearing down a charger and cable. Many have noticed poor quality in the chargers..I'm gonna try to engineer an open DIY charger and cable replacement with better filtering components. Hopefully will be creating a thread with full details in 3 weeks...
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds great. The simple tests I have done have yielded more quetions then answers.
Looking forward to your data.

ive noticed i cant transfer data on anything other than the nook cable.

The NC cable is special. It wont fit other devices.
described over here....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nook_Color
Charging the NC on a regular microUSB means much longer time.

swaaye said:
The NC cable is special. It wont fit other devices.
described over here....
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nook_Color
Charging the NC on a regular microUSB means much longer time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, this much is well known...my plan is to find out if there are "brains" in the charger or if it's just a high amp USB adapter. If the latter is true( which I suspect), then it's easy peasy to make a high power port( or just buy a quality one). If it has special circuitry...then I get to try and replicate it( with better parts) and release the plans so others can make DIY replacements.
Edit: I'm willing to bet that the extra pins in the cable are just to increase contact surface...to handle the higher amperage.
Sent from my NookColor using XDA Premium App

boogerboy72 said:
ive noticed i cant transfer data on anything other than the nook cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is totally wrong, since other cables WILL transfer data just fine. I use an LG Micro USB cable from my old dare, and am able to ADB push, install, etc just fine.
As it is, the large end of the Nook's USB cable is normal; this means that if the nook is communicating, it is doing so over the standard USB data ports, and not through some special connection. Keep in mind that some of the extra pins from the micro side are for the status light that is built in.

Hmm R1102 here showing 1.9A output
I'm curious.. some people have talked about warranty replacements. What R versions are those?

Divine_Madcat said:
That is totally wrong, since other cables WILL transfer data just fine. I use an LG Micro USB cable from my old dare, and am able to ADB push, install, etc just fine.
As it is, the large end of the Nook's USB cable is normal; this means that if the nook is communicating, it is doing so over the standard USB data ports, and not through some special connection. Keep in mind that some of the extra pins from the micro side are for the status light that is built in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm....hadn't thought of that...that charger almost has to be dumb...just higher output...the smarts all have to be in the USB/power management chip in the nook. Those extra pins must be for the led and maybe a few for handling the higher amperage. Need to check out the spec sheet for that chip again...
Sent from my NookColor using XDA Premium App

Why does it HAVE to be dumb? I mean, the charger needs to do nothing more than respond to a ping, saying "Hey, im a Nook charger, take me for a 1.9A ride!". I guess that makes it dumb, but no reason said technology won't be in the charger.

Best 2A car charger: Bracketron

Background: (feel free to skip this)
In my search to get a good car charger for my Nexus 10 (that would also be good on my Galaxy Nexus), I checked out a bunch of sites and manufacturers and reviews for the perfect charger. I also wanted it to be dual port for two phones at the same time in case my girlfriend is in the car.
So many 2A chargers are not actually 2A, they may be 1A to each port max or they may only work as 2A on an iPad. Android devices look for shorted out data connections in order to pull more than USB power (500ma). So a charger has to both offer 2A or more and have the data pins shorted in order for us to get maximum current to our Nexus 10's. The Apple/iPad chargers work differently. They either have smart chips or specific resistances between the data pins in order to specify current draw.
-----
What you came here for:
After the long search, the BEST while still very affordable car adapter, is the *drumroll*:
Bracketron Universal Dual USB Car Adapter
2 ports like I wanted. 2A like I wanted.
Contrary to the "Universal" listing, the adapter was likely made for the iPad. So charging out of the box is USB (500ma). But it's easily fixed in under 3 minutes!
---
Instructions:
1. Pop off the round silver plate on the front (with your finger/nail).
2. Unscrew the silver part in the back. Don't lose the spring hidden inside.
3. Slowly pry open the black plastic. It's fairly rigid and you'll hear some clicks. If you don't open it like a crazy monkey, you won't damage or break any plastic.
4. You'll see by each USB port 4 wires going to the port from the circuit board. The 2 middle pins are the data lines, the 2 outer ones are the power lines.
5***. You want to short the data (two middle) pins. All that means is you want them touching electrically. Takes about 10 seconds to do with a solder iron (once it's hot ). Just flow some solder between the two pins, no wire needed. Do the same for the other USB port on the other side.
6. Put the plastic and screwed pieces back together. Plug it in and you should see AC charging! :victory:
***If you're poor at soldering, don't worry - you're doing this on pins in the air, not directly on the board, so it's an extremely easy soldering job. If you've never soldered in your life, you can possibly use some wire instead of solder to connect the two and find a way for it to hold in place. But seriously it's an easy solder job and you should probably learn how to solder anyway.
---
Reading the instructions I wrote takes longer than making the modification.
Why this adapter if you have to solder? It's the only one I can find with dual ports that can actually give 2A to an ANDROID device. Why this of all the other adapters you can attempt to solder? It comes apart extremely easily so you don't break any plastic like many of the other ones. And the adapter is really small so you don't have a huge piece of plastic hanging out of your power port.
Fair note: it looks like it may give 2A max, so charging both my 1A phone and my 2A tablet will actually be slower. But it's perfect for charging the tablet at full speed when by itself or two phones at full speed.
Also, credit to Amazon reviewer 'K. Crawford' for suggesting this adapter as a good one to mod.

If anyone needs help during the process, I'm more than happy to help!

Very nice info, thanks.

Niiice! I heard though even if you hook up the tablet to a 2A charger, the tab will still only take a reduced amount, is that true?

From my measurements, the tablet will draw around 750 ma, so soldering it will help, just not for the full 2A.

rp181 said:
From my measurements, the tablet will draw around 750 ma, so soldering it will help, just not for the full 2A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You measured 750 ma with the bracketron I linked post-mod?? It should be much higher.. What did you use to measure?

nice instructions, royal.
did I do it right?! check the details beneath one of the photos. you will see some solder popped and landed on the circuit board on the top right. it is touching one of those little enclosed boxes on its own and nothing else. you think this is gonna pose a problem?! if so, any fix? I tried to pull it away, but im not a mastersolderer.
bummer about the picture rule. I think I got some good shots that could help some people. I guess I'll be back to post the pics.

This charger is dearer but supplies dual 2.1A with the correct cables/
http://www.expansys-usa.com/expansys-expansys-dual-car-charger-adapter-5v-4-2a-219640/

Gaugerer said:
This charger is dearer but supplies dual 2.1A with the correct cables/
http://www.expansys-usa.com/expansys-expansys-dual-car-charger-adapter-5v-4-2a-219640/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't state if it's "shared" or not. Meaning is that 2.1A total for both or 2.1A each. Lot of them are shared even at 3.1A.

wptski said:
It doesn't state if it's "shared" or not. Meaning is that 2.1A total for both or 2.1A each. Lot of them are shared even at 3.1A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It says 5v, 4.2A so that is 2.1A each.

Gaugerer said:
It says 5v, 4.2A so that is 2.1A each.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah! My bad, I see that at the top now!

slippy steve said:
nice instructions, royal.
bummer about the picture rule. I think I got some good shots that could help some people. I guess I'll be back to post the pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you able to post pictures yet? I'm happy to take a look and help out. If it won't let you attach pictures, you can try linking to an album on imgur, for example (if it allows links).
Gaugerer said:
This charger is dearer but supplies dual 2.1A with the correct cables/
http://www.expansys-usa.com/expansys-expansys-dual-car-charger-adapter-5v-4-2a-219640/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With the iPad designation, it's a sure thing that this will need modification. If I'm understanding you correctly, I think you're trying to suggest modified (data-shorted) cables rather than modified adapter. I prefer having a modified adapter so I can use and replace cables at a whim. But if you purchased that one already, you can see if it comes apart and can be modified just as easily.

Royal2000H said:
Are you able to post pictures yet? I'm happy to take a look and help out. If it won't let you attach pictures, you can try linking to an album on imgur, for example (if it allows links).
With the iPad designation, it's a sure thing that this will need modification. If I'm understanding you correctly, I think you're trying to suggest modified (data-shorted) cables rather than modified adapter. I prefer having a modified adapter so I can use and replace cables at a whim. But if you purchased that one already, you can see if it comes apart and can be modified just as easily.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I purchased a Kensington car charger packaged for an iPad and all that meant is that it came a iPad type cord but still a standard USB port which worked on my Android device.

Some people have said that the cable used also has a lot to do with what the tablet pulls. Some saying a Motorola brand USB cable they had gave much more current. If there is any truth to this then in conjunction with doing this mod to the charger it might be a good idea to buy a cable with 22AWG power conductors:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812189234

wptski said:
I purchased a Kensington car charger packaged for an iPad and all that meant is that it came a iPad type cord but still a standard USB port which worked on my Android device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The question isn't whether the port is USB. It's always going to be USB supplying 5V. The question is how much current the device can pull from the charger. A normal USB port (like a computer) can only supply 500mA by spec. The N10 needs 2A. The ones designated for ipad will usually charge your N10 but at a max of 500mA (even if they're rated higher - because the data pins aren't shorted).

Royal2000H said:
The question isn't whether the port is USB. It's always going to be USB supplying 5V. The question is how much current the device can pull from the charger. A normal USB port (like a computer) can only supply 500mA by spec. The N10 needs 2A. The ones designated for ipad will usually charge your N10 but at a max of 500mA (even if they're rated higher - because the data pins aren't shorted).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the data pins aren't shorted, it won't draw more than 500ma, if that's so, how can it be rated at 2.A? I haven't tried my PS with the Nexus 10 yet but did with my other device, had no problem but it has a much smaller battery and I don't remember the details.
I'll try to check it out on the Nexus 10 and post the results.
EDIT
I thried my Kensington or this one: http://www.amazon.com/Kindle-PowerB...158903&sr=1-7&keywords=kensington+car+charger.
I first tried it using a POGO cord and it wouldn't charge. It did using a micro-USB cord over 500ma also.

wptski said:
If the data pins aren't shorted, it won't draw more than 500ma, if that's so, how can it be rated at 2.A? I haven't tried my PS with the Nexus 10 yet but did with my other device, had no problem but it has a much smaller battery and I don't remember the details.
I'll try to check it out on the Nexus 10 and post the results.
EDIT
I thried my Kensington or this one: http://www.amazon.com/Kindle-PowerB...158903&sr=1-7&keywords=kensington+car+charger.
I first tried it using a POGO cord and it wouldn't charge. It did using a micro-USB cord over 500ma also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I explained it all in the Original Post, but I'll try to clarify. If a charger is rated at 2A but doesn't have data pins shorted, the Nexus 10 will only pull 500mA. The manufacturer isn't necessarily lying about the 2A, it likely is capable of giving 2A. However, the Nexus 10 checks for shorted pins before pulling at 2A. This is because USB spec is rated for 500mA and if the Nexus 10 tried to pull 2A from a computer, it would overload the circuits of a computer's USB port and potentially damage the USB hub or computer. So as a somewhat universal decision (though really it's not standardized), most manufacturers did something like this: if data pins are not shorted (as in a computer) - take upto 500mA. If data pins are shorted (as in the charger provided with the device) - take upto what's necessary. This is actually a somewhat problematic solution because a 2A-requiring Nexus 10 plugged into, say, a Galaxy Nexus charger (shorted data but only 1A) could potentially cause damage from overloading.
Therefore, Apple didn't go along with the whole shorting the data pins solution. They came up with their own solution, which I actually don't know enough about to speak of in accuracy. But their solution allows the device to basically "sense" the capabilities of a charger, so it knows whether it can charge 1A or 2A or 3A, etc. This is I imagine is either done with resistors specifying discrete values or with some sort of "smart chips".
So, as you see, the Apple ones don't have shorted data pins. Therefore a manufacturer of a car charger has to decide: Support Apple devices or support other devices? And some manufacturers do such a bad job, they provide the high current (like 2A) but then don't do Apple's "solution" or the data shorting, thereby rendering their high current useless.

Royal2000H said:
I explained it all in the Original Post, but I'll try to clarify. If a charger is rated at 2A but doesn't have data pins shorted, the Nexus 10 will only pull 500mA. The manufacturer isn't necessarily lying about the 2A, it likely is capable of giving 2A. However, the Nexus 10 checks for shorted pins before pulling at 2A. This is because USB spec is rated for 500mA and if the Nexus 10 tried to pull 2A from a computer, it would overload the circuits of a computer's USB port and potentially damage the USB hub or computer. So as a somewhat universal decision (though really it's not standardized), most manufacturers did something like this: if data pins are not shorted (as in a computer) - take upto 500mA. If data pins are shorted (as in the charger provided with the device) - take upto what's necessary. This is actually a somewhat problematic solution because a 2A-requiring Nexus 10 plugged into, say, a Galaxy Nexus charger (shorted data but only 1A) could potentially cause damage from overloading.
Therefore, Apple didn't go along with the whole shorting the data pins solution. They came up with their own solution, which I actually don't know enough about to speak of in accuracy. But their solution allows the device to basically "sense" the capabilities of a charger, so it knows whether it can charge 1A or 2A or 3A, etc. This is I imagine is either done with resistors specifying discrete values or with some sort of "smart chips".
So, as you see, the Apple ones don't have shorted data pins. Therefore a manufacturer of a car charger has to decide: Support Apple devices or support other devices? And some manufacturers do such a bad job, they provide the high current (like 2A) but then don't do Apple's "solution" or the data shorting, thereby rendering their high current useless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you were to use a PS limited to 1A, it "should" have a saftey to limit that. I used my above mentioned 2.1A PS with a 110VAC>12VDC adapter which was has a 1A max. and it did limit the output. Not saying that all PS would do that without damage though.
While poking around in files, I did find one that lists the power source by name but I forget as to what it showed for the OEM PS. I wonder what it'll show for a car PS?

Sv: Best 2A car charger: Bracketron
I doubt there are phone chargers without current limitations as safety feature. If designed well the charger should limit the current at its max current. Otherwise a lot of chargers would burn.
But I am not sure this is the reality
Skickat från min HTC Desire via Tapatalk 2

Royal2000H said:
...Apple didn't go along with the whole shorting the data pins solution. They came up with their own solution, which I actually don't know enough about to speak of in accuracy. But their solution allows the device to basically "sense" the capabilities of a charger, so it knows whether it can charge 1A or 2A or 3A, etc. This is I imagine is either done with resistors specifying discrete values or with some sort of "smart chips".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe Apple use a pair of different value resistors to create a voltage divider, passing a different voltage to D+ and D-. The presence of this differential voltage on the data pins is what triggers the high power charge capabilities.

USB cable that can run at 1800mA

I've managed to find some chargers (both car and wall) that will charge with 1800mA (according to Galaxy Charging Lite app).
I have not managed to find an aftermarket cable that will charge at more than 1amp. Anyone know of an aftermarket cable that actually is capable of 1800mA? I've tried nGear and monoprice, and while they are very well constructed cables, they will only charge at 1amp or less with the n7100
Thanks for the help in advance, but please only respond to this if you've actually tested the cable with with the Galaxy Charging app or a current meter of some sort. I'm not interested in cables that only work anecdotally.
-PW

I'm breaking your rules (gasp) but as far as I'm aware, it's not the cable that manages the charge, it's the power adapter that feeds the usb, right? I've used all sorts of random cables on my travels for work, but always sticking to my 2+ amp output charger, and they've always worked.

pacificwing said:
I've managed to find some chargers (both car and wall) that will charge with 1800mA (according to Galaxy Charging Lite app).
I have not managed to find an aftermarket cable that will charge at more than 1amp. Anyone know of an aftermarket cable that actually is capable of 1800mA? I've tried nGear and monoprice, and while they are very well constructed cables, they will only charge at 1amp or less with the n7100
Thanks for the help in advance, but please only respond to this if you've actually tested the cable with with the Galaxy Charging app or a current meter of some sort. I'm not interested in cables that only work anecdotally.
-PW
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Find a very short cable and you'll see rates up to 2100 ma (as measure by battery monitor widget). I use the short usb cable that came with my jambox combined with the the phones stock charger. The charger gets so hot due to the high current that I worry if it might burn out. The cable is very short, like 6 inches. I use this one when i need a quick bump before going out.
At this low of voltage plus high current, the shielding on most cables is not enough to protect against the voltage fluctuations caused by the high magnetic field. The longer the cable the more shielding is needed. Additionally, the cable shielding gets less effective as the cable gets older due to general wear. My original usb cable can only due around 740 - 1250ma, where it used to do 1800ma when new nearly 2 years ago.
If you could find a cable where there the positive and negative wires are separated in parallel strands like traditional AC power cords, it would also help. I have a cheap charger with built in cord like this and it charges consistently fast.

Jarm3r said:
I'm breaking your rules (gasp) but as far as I'm aware, it's not the cable that manages the charge, it's the power adapter that feeds the usb, right? I've used all sorts of random cables on my travels for work, but always sticking to my 2+ amp output charger, and they've always worked.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most USB cables will work with the charger, but some cables (usually longer or smaller gauge wires) will restrict the charge to a lower amperage. I still haven't quite figured out how the phone knows what cable is being used, because, realistically, in a simple DC circuit, the consequence of using a cable that is too small is heating up or burning out. A cable that is too small alone will not prevent too much amperage from going through itself. This is why they invented fuses. Somehow the phone detects the gauge/length of cable being used and restricts the amperage being pulled from the charger by changing its own resistance on the circuit.
nswenson said:
Find a very short cable and you'll see rates up to 2100 ma (as measure by battery monitor widget). I use the short usb cable that came with my jambox combined with the the phones stock charger. The charger gets so hot due to the high current that I worry if it might burn out. The cable is very short, like 6 inches. I use this one when i need a quick bump before going out.
At this low of voltage plus high current, the shielding on most cables is not enough to protect against the voltage fluctuations caused by the high magnetic field. The longer the cable the more shielding is needed. Additionally, the cable shielding gets less effective as the cable gets older due to general wear. My original usb cable can only due around 740 - 1250ma, where it used to do 1800ma when new nearly 2 years ago.
If you could find a cable where there the positive and negative wires are separated in parallel strands like traditional AC power cords, it would also help. I have a cheap charger with built in cord like this and it charges consistently fast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suspect you're right. The impedance of a cable is the only thing that would change over a period of time that would result in a cable that could once pull 2A to start pulling less than that. Still, it would be nice to have a list of chargers/cables that consistently pull 2A before dropping $15-$30 on one of them. There exists such a list on this forum, but it is filled with comments like "It's good enough for me", without any real data as to what performance they are getting. Hence my rules above.

The charge rate depends on your kernal not the cable. I use Agni and get over 2 amp charges from a USB cable I paid 12 cents shipped for on eBay.

I purchased this cable about two weeks ago and it delivers!! I can charge my 9300mah Zero Lemon battery from 0-100 in just under 4 hours. Stock battery in about 1.5-2hrs. Of course I'm using a 2.1 amp charger, but NONE of my other cables come close. I'm averaging 1800-1900mah charge rate with it. Next highest rate cord only gets about 1200 max. I plan on ordering 2-3 more. $5 and change with PRIME.
2.1A Micro USB Sync & Charging Cable (1M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z94PV2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_7MD2tb08CY1N7R0J

carlz28 said:
I purchased this cable about two weeks ago and it delivers!! I can charge my 9300mah Zero Lemon battery from 0-100 in just under 4 hours. Stock battery in about 1.5-2hrs. Of course I'm using a 2.1 amp charger, but NONE of my other cables come close. I'm averaging 1800-1900mah charge rate with it. Next highest rate cord only gets about 1200 max. I plan on ordering 2-3 more. $5 and change with PRIME.
2.1A Micro USB Sync & Charging Cable (1M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z94PV2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_7MD2tb08CY1N7R0J
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Thank you! This is exactly the type of review I was looking for!
:laugh:

Check this out. http://voyager8.blogspot.com/2013/04/how-to-choose-good-usb-data-and.htmlI found it while looking for the 6ft cable I used to use until it shorted from heavy use (bending a lot) and I got a pack of 10 short flat wire style 3ft cables. My 6ft one has a ferrite end and printed on it: 28agw/1p and 26awg/2c. It could handle 2A just fine, but this requires any wall outlet adapter that can output that amperage. The oem outlet adapter that comes with the phone says 2.0A output, but you can fine any 'reliable' one that has 2.0A output.

if the original cable is not 1800mA, there must be a reason

Get one of these
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030307&p_id=5457&seq=1&format=2

anyone have this cable... or know if it is a 28AWG/1P + 24AWG/2C (i.e., 24AWG/2C for charging)
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-U.../B004GF8TIK/ref=pd_cp_e_1/186-6092214-7798820

Hi
Hard to get something original for samsung nowadays

I have those monoprice cables but get different results every time I plug in (1698ma, 1300ma, 600ma, 460ma, etc...)

carlz28 said:
I purchased this cable about two weeks ago and it delivers!! I can charge my 9300mah Zero Lemon battery from 0-100 in just under 4 hours. Stock battery in about 1.5-2hrs. Of course I'm using a 2.1 amp charger, but NONE of my other cables come close. I'm averaging 1800-1900mah charge rate with it. Next highest rate cord only gets about 1200 max. I plan on ordering 2-3 more. $5 and change with PRIME.
2.1A Micro USB Sync & Charging Cable (1M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009Z94PV2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_7MD2tb08CY1N7R0J
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Click to collapse
Which 2.1 amp charger are you using? I have one for my car, looking for one for home use. I also have the 9300mah ZeroLemon battery in my T-Mobile Note 2. Thanks!

Asquared said:
Which 2.1 amp charger are you using? I have one for my car, looking for one for home use. I also have the 9300mah ZeroLemon battery in my T-Mobile Note 2. Thanks!
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I was using the 2A charger that came with my Nexus tablet. But I bought an additional one for work.
iXCC ® Dual USB 4.2 Amp (20 Watt) SMART High Capacity [High Power] ... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPTU0OU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_PR7.tb01EM5CB
$11.99 thru PRIME.
Had this one for almost 3 months now and it works VERY well. I get a full 1900-2000mah charge rate on the Note2 and can charge my tablet at quick speeds simultaneously.

ElDuez said:
The charge rate depends on your kernal not the cable. I use Agni and get over 2 amp charges from a USB cable I paid 12 cents shipped for on eBay.
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some fake cable limit current.

Got similar problems as the OP. I wanted to charge my phone in my car and using the phone as a navigation device without depleting the battery (which occured a few time).
Tried several usb cables, even did some mods like shorting the white and green data wire in the cabel at the phone side, but that all didn't help.
Then i came to Kopi who sells usb cables which can deliver a full current.
http://kopi-d.com/?recent_works=553
Bought a few for 6 dollar each and am now a happy camper.

shizuku said:
Got similar problems as the OP. I wanted to charge my phone in my car and using the phone as a navigation device without depleting the battery (which occured a few time).
Tried several usb cables, even did some mods like shorting the white and green data wire in the cabel at the phone side, but that all didn't help.
Then i came to Kopi who sells usb cables which can deliver a full current.
http://kopi-d.com/?recent_works=553
Bought a few for 6 dollar each and am now a happy camper.
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We're sorry, but there are no items available in the Micro USB (Android) category lol on the web site

linkhunter said:
We're sorry, but there are no items available in the Micro USB (Android) category lol on the web site
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I just saw it. Why don't you email them and ask about availability? I had contact with Victor Leung ([email protected]).

samsung galaxy s5 charging time. 2.0(micro usb) 3.0 cable

hello members.
i posted this thread as i dint found any comparision time for chargin between 2 diffrent cables. 2.0 vs 3.0
i found the same charging time on both 2.0(regular micro usb) vs 3.0
it seems 3.0 only helps for very fast data transfers..
(hope this info is useful

Yup.. There will be no difference in charging time as there are no power pins in the extra Usb 3 lines.

..

I use USB 3.0 cables and it is much faster for both, charging and data transfer.
Sent from my SM-G900F using XDA Free mobile app

declan8888 said:
I use USB 3.0 cables and it is much faster for both, charging and data transfer.
Sent from my SM-G900F using XDA Free mobile app
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Download galaxy charging lite from the play store and check the incoming current. It's the same for microusb 2.0 & 3.0.
Maximum of 1800, usually charges at 1200 w/ screen on.
If you claim that charging is faster with the multipurpose cable, show screenshots.

thachosenone said:
Maximum of 1800, usually charges at 1200 w/ screen on.
If you claim that charging is faster with the multipurpose cable, show screenshots.
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Apologies, I was incorrect. Falling for my own placebo!
Sent from my SM-G900F using XDA Free mobile app

I have both s5 and note3, tested with both USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 charger. It's just same output, time or charging current. Transfer speed, I didn't know because my PC not have USB 3.0 port

fffft said:
Your conclusion is misleading. You probably won't find a difference between USB 2 & 3 if you are using data cables as your phone limits it's draw to about 0.5A to protect lower specd USB ports.
If you want faster charging and in particular, take advantage of the higher current that is available from AC adapters or many newer USB 2/3 ports, then you need to use a charging cable. This is not the same as a data (multipurpose) cable. A charging cable has the data lines shorted to tell the phone that you are connected to a high current or at least protected source and it should go ahead and draw as much current as it can use (or is available if the port is current limited, but protected).
Of course, it should go without saying that if you use a power cable with a conventional USB 2 port, you are circumventing the safety protection and may damage your USB port.
.
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This is interesting, my phone will recognize my (2 amp) AC charger as AC, yet with data cable it'll only go 550 ma according to that app (450 if recognized as USB). If I switch to a charging cable it'll take 1.2 amp from the same charger. Strange logic.

Well maybe its just me but my phone actually DOES seem to charge faster with the new 3.0. Like a lot faster.
Maybe it is "placebo" as you say but for me it really is faster. Just my 2cents.
Sent from my Sexy Samsung S5

What lead comes with the Galaxy S5 in UK retail packaging?

Usb 2 unfortunately.

russ18uk said:
Usb 2 unfortunately.
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the cable doesnt make any difference its the charger that needs to be higher

It's the charger that should be shorting out the data lines, not the cable. I would think that a cable that did this would pose a risk that, if inadvertently used to connect a phone to a regular USB port instead of a charger, could cause the phone to think it can draw more power than the port can safely provide, and subsequently overload and damage the USB hub.
Whereas a charger that shorts out the data lines can be used with any standard USB cable.
Maximum power ratings are a different matter, though. AFAIK, standard USB 2.0 connectors only need to be rated at 1.5A current to be compliant, but charging ports and cables (i.e. those compliant with the Battery Charging Specification) need to be rated to handle at least 5A - although, this is in spite of the maximum draw of 1.5A anyway.

with USB 3.0 and standard charger reached battery from 12 percent to 92 about 80 min
I've heard about 20% charging difference and I think it's true

Mahdian57 said:
with USB 3.0 and standard charger reached battery from 12 percent to 92 about 80 min
I've heard about 20% charging difference and I think it's true
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This is about what I get with my supplied wall charger and cable. Its nice being able to use the phone and still get a charge at the same time. My Nexus 5 would only maintain a charge level and not gain any charge when being used.
One day last week I forgot my spare battery and had to use my mini USB cable I have at work connected to my computer and it took most of the day to go from 15% to full charge. The S5 has the best battery life out of any phone I've had so far but I wish they would release 4.4.4 for us as I saw a noticeable improvement in battery life with my Nexus 5 when i put 4.4.4 on it.

USB 3.0 Charging
So as most of you have come to realize, there is no difference in the basic way that USB 2.0 to USB 3.0 cables carry current to the device. The extra pins in a 3.0 cable are for full duplex, (bi-directional data transfer) at really fast speeds, up to 4 GB/s.
USB output is rated at 5V. The output current from different brand computers might reach 600ma. The current is regulated to avoid overheating the cable and computer power supply. The extra twisted pair of wire in a USB 3.0 cable enable a bit more current handling... up to 900ma.
The reason your newer Samsung charges the device faster is that the new power adapter (mine is white) has a current output of 2.0 Amps. The older power adapters had a rated output of 750ma, 3/4 of an amp. Result.. The new power adapter system facilitates fast charging.
I'm guessing that they spec'd the higher output charger to match the higher power usage profiles of the latest Samsung Galaxy products. I remain a fan of slow to medium charging rates to preserve the life and charge cycles of the battery. High rates yield more heat which can shorten the life of the cell structure.
Hope this explanation helps.
Chris

nikhilmulay said:
Yup.. There will be no difference in charging time as there are no power pins in the extra Usb 3 lines.
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Take heed of this response - it's the most useful one here. There is no difference between charging via a usb 2 and usb 3 cable as long as both are decent quality (recommended 23awg gauge minimum for 2amps).
The extra usb 3 pins don't carry any additional power wires.
Ensure you're using good quality cables as mentioned above - look for 23awg (gauge of the wires within the cable) printed on the cable (all original and genuine Samsung cables are rated at this) and a 2A charger (again, recommended to use original and genuine Samsung charger) and there will be absolutely no difference between usb 2 and 3 cables.
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

usb 3 charges faster.
Those who say that usb 2 needs the same time as usb 3 don't know what they are talking about.
I won't talk or pretend that I know a lot about tech but here are some real results that doesn't come out of my head.
Usb 2 cables max amp is 450mha and I have tried 3 different cables a Motorola ,my HTC one X and a plain usb 2 cable that I have .All 3 of them gets 400 or 450 mha.
But when I use the original Samsung usb 3 ,a cheap China usb 3 or my black usb 3 from my external drive the Samsung let's 1800 mha to pass by.
All test are done with the original Samsung charger and a cheap 5 dollar one which I don't use much because when the phone is not charging it makes a weird sound.
And the only way what I say is not true is that my s5 detects the kind of usb I have and limits the charge which in result is the same thing.

thunderc8 said:
Those who say that usb 2 needs the same time as usb 3 don't know what they are talking about.
I won't talk or pretend that I know a lot about tech but here are some real results that doesn't come out of my head.
Usb 2 cables max voltage is 450mha and I have tried 3 different cables a Motorola ,my HTC one X and a plain usb 2 cable that I have .All 3 of them gets 400 or 450 mha.
But when I use the original Samsung usb 3 ,a cheap China usb 3 or my black usb 3 from my external drive the Samsung let's 1800 mha to pass by.
All test are done with the original Samsung charger and a cheap 5 dollar one which I don't use much because when the phone is not charging it makes a weird sound.
And the only way what I say is not true is that my s5 detects the kind of usb I have and limits the charge which in result is the same thing.
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Bless you.
So nice to finally realise there is such a limit to usb 2 cables.
Going to shoot myself quietly for living all this time in a lie.
Extra points for measuring Voltage in Amps.

ogremount said:
Bless you.
So nice to finally realise there is such a limit to usb 2 cables.
Going to shoot myself quietly for living all this time in a lie.
Extra points for measuring Voltage in Amps.
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There is no limit and this guy has no idea what he's talking about. There are no extra power wires in the usb cable - in both a usb2 & usb3 cables there is a positive and negative wire which provides power to the device period.
FYI, voltage and amps are 2 completely separate measurements which only compounds the stupidity of his response...
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