RROD And 2 Red rings on 360!! WTF??!! - Off-topic

hi
my mum and dad bought me a new hd ready tv. What is the first thing you do? OH Plug in YA 360!!! So i did then switched the lead to hd and set it to 1080P as you would (component). Then got of the settings and then the colours went really low res. So i switched it of the back on, whagold the lead.
then i got 3 red rings then 2 red rings following.
There is an error code system, so i tryed that. I got:
0012
I think its overheating or something. So i went to an electrionic store (maplin) and bought a 180 Piece Nut & Bolt Assortment. And i followed this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcyYG-boWvM. Instead of using nylon washers, (which i couldnt get) i drilled some holes in a milk bottle then cut them out like washers. I then got a drill and drilled the 5mm holes in the bottom of the case (as shown in the video).
Then got 8 M5x16 bolt and put a plastic washer on each one. Then put the 8 bolts through the the case, and put a washer on each one again. I put the motherboard in then put another washer on all 8 bolts. Then screwed the GPU heatsink on. Then the CPU Heatsink. Pluged the fans in and the dvd drive, the lights and power switch board on the front in. then the power lead.
Accoreding to the video you leave it on for 10 minutes, then put it back together.
I have not put it back together yet, but that does not explain why i get 3 red lights then 2 red lights.
Can you help?
flyboy

err well its red ring of death and also why didnt you call m$ for a fix??? one of my mates has had 2 on his and both been fixed?!?!? (for free)
Also i hope it works again for you
ps i prefer the ps3

If I am not mistaken the three red lights is for general hardware failure and the 2 red lights are for GPU failure.
What happens is the xbox overheats and then fails. Normally the two components that fail are the CPU and GPU. The cpu is normally indicated by 3 red lights and the gpu is indicated by 2 red lights.
The fix in the video works great and addresses both problems.

I know what the lights mean but i dont know how to fix it and avoid it again.

is it fixed now or are you still having problems?
to prevent it from happening again you have already done a big part by removing the x-clamps. also be sure you replace the thermal paste on the heatsinks with a quality paste like arctic silver 5. this is normally all I do and have never had any further problems but some people choose to upgrade the fans or add an intercooler to increase the cooling.

i havent yet solved the rrod yet and im waiting on some money from me mate. If i get the thermal stuff and clean the chips will it work for sure?

The paste if more of a preventative measure to keep it from re-occurring.
Having not watched the video you used for reference I do not know exactly what all they have you do, but what we do here (in my shop) is the following:
remove the x-clamps
clean off the old past
add new paste
replace the heatsinks with new screws but dont tighten them all the way yet
reassemble the drive but not the fans or case
plug it in and turn it on until the lights start flashing (about 10-15 minutes)
then once it is cool enough to handle tighten down the new screws
The screw should be fairly tight, but no tight enough to strip them.
Basically you are overheating it when you turn on the xbox for 10 minutes or so and re-seating the cpu and gpu. It doesnt always work on the first try and may take 1 or 2 rounds of heating it up and tightening the screws.
I hope this helps.

Where du work craig? Du repair these things?
And which paste du use?

I work for the power company by day, and for myself on nights and weekends (small shop that repairs tv's, video game systems, phones lol ect.)
I personally use artic silver 5. I also use the cleaner and purifier but it isnt a requirement. YOu must use good paste though.
The paste is like $7USD per tube, but it is enough to do a dozen xboxes. I believe you can buy smaller packets but I am not sure. But be sure not to use too little or too much. A grain of rice is about the right amount.

yeah i was thinking pasting me pc and xbox.

Oh and can i use Akasa Hi-Spec 450 Thermal compound?
flyboy

I have never used it, but as far as I can tell it will work just fine.

ye thanks craiger for that link u sent me and with a few tweaks and thermal compound its ALIVE again! and in full hd!

Glad to hear that you have it going again. I still remember how great I felt when I fixed my first RROD box. Congrats

yesterday the dvd drive wouldnt read discs but i fixed it today with my spare parts

Related

how do i separate keyboard from screen - xda11s

I dropped my xda2s into a basin of water today
I was able to drench it with isoprop alcohol and have been drying it with a hairdryer .
after about 5 hours I was able to boot it up and got the first windows screen . that was when i noticed the water logged screen.
I would like to split the machine so that i can dry each bit properly.
How do I separate the two parts?
many thanks
With the two hex-type screws on the sides of the PDA (one on the left, the other on the right side).
many thanks
I have removed the two screws. now what do I do? i am afraid to break the unit, how does the screen section clip off.
I have an XDA2s with a sliding keyboard
many thanks
I've had to take mine apart too. Problem is, you need a good memory and fine fingers.
The 2 screws that separate the keyboard unit from the screen are only accessible AFTER you've removed / loosened EVERYTHING else - including internal boards, cables etc.
I did it OK - but need to get hold of new buttons - contact cleaner ruins the silicone button 'diaphram' thingies.
Us Perth people must be crap with our XDA's - I got red wine over mine.
hell, I'm not lloking forward to that. I need to repalce the screen because I now have dark splotches in parts.
The phone answer button does not work so I will give it a clean.
I learnt a very important lesson with this problem about not having all eggs in one basket. My T630 arrives next week. the xda will become what i think it 's ideally suited for:
diary, notebook, the odd calculation, wireless work and backup phone.
The absence of integrated voice dialing and the ability to easily make a call with one hand make it too clumsy for me coz i make many calls on the road
what did you use to clean the switches?
Hope it was a good red wine

[Q] G-Sensor not working and other questions

I've just bought an used Diamond for $82. It looks great, there are only a couple very minor scratches on the display (fixable with a little Displex methinks), came with all the standard accessories plus a genuine HTC leather pouch.
Story is as follows: The owner bought it last week for $140, but noticed later that the G-sensor only works up and down. He took to "the only authorized HTC service center in Romania" and they said something about a broken foil and asked for over $150 to fix it, so he decides to sell it. He'd just picked it up from service today (the diagnosis itself cost him $5 so they didn't even give it back for free). He could've sold it for more, but lucky me.
So, i check it out, and accidentally drop it. It falls flat on its back. Okay, it isn't hurt, everything works, i pay the guy and leave with the phone. On the subway back home everything fine, but at home when i try to connect to wifi it won't start. I reboot the thing and i get the dreaded MicropError. Then the backlight decides only to work when it wants to.
I take the thing apart only to find the wireless cable had come out of its connector, and when i lift the mobo out the display cable also detaches easily. I plug the wireless back in, and notice that the display cable doesn't "click" when the board is mounted back in its place. Aha, so this must've been it. Great service center they have, they can't even click a connector in place.
I use a flat screwdriver to make sure the cable locks firmly in place, put a piece of paper under it to keep it from moving around again, and put the phone back together. Success. I haz working HTC.
It's true that a broken G-Sensor can't be fixed, right? Not that i care too much about it, i just want to know a yes/no type answer.
So, now the main question. I already noticed that the built-in speaker is crap, something typical of WinMo devices as far as i've seen. Now, the supplied headphones are also crap and it doesn't have a jack adapter either. Before i slice the handsfree and patch my Samsung in-ears onto it, i want to know if it sounds good on quality headphones. I don't need it loud as the Samsungs are plenty sensitive, but i need good bass. I have a Sony Ericsson w595 and it's got really powerful bass. I used to have a HP iPAQ rx4240, and it was loud, but it was miles behind the SE phone in sound quality and bass.
The main idea is that the HTC will replace one of my two phones - either the Nokia N93i or the SE w595. The N93i is held in one piece by superglue only and sometimes i need to restart it before it will accept a charge (and it's a PAIN opening Symbian menus for the first time after you restart it). The w595 i got as a gift this summer and is in pristine shape complete with protective foil applied to display. So i could easily sell it for what i paid for the HTC.

HOW TO: fix Droid/Milestone touchscreen lack of responsiveness and Ghost Touch issues

NOTE: THIS SOLUTION IS POTENTIALLY DAMAGING AND MAY NOT WORK FOR EVERYONE
PROBLEM: touch screen acts erratic, notification bar keeps opening, screen appears to be touched by someone else continuously (Ghost Touch), and parts of the screen DO NOT RESPOND TO TOUCH.
MY OWN SPECIFIC CASE: I had the Ghost Touch issue for 3 days suddenly without intro, which often used to go away after a reboot or two, then phone worked normally after I removed the battery and left it in a dry area (in a closed drawer between books, no air entering, very dry atmosphere), however the RIGHT SIDE of the screen (Search button, rightmost letters [L and Delete and sometimes ENTER] do not work. If the phone is in normal landscape, you cannot open the notification bar by dragging it normally.
DIAGNOSIS: for some people, the problem is more severe. The Digitiser itself could be malfunctioning and has to be fixed, while for others it could be a true problem with the screen itself. However, for MANY OF US, it is a problem of HUMIDITY. The humidity sensors are causing the phone to act like that. Some say part of this problem happens because the way the keypad affects the phone internally as you open and close it a lot.
SOLUTIONS:
1- To be safe: send the phone to the shop. Ask them to open the phone and apply an extra layer of insulation, in case the digitiser and the screen are okay.
2- If something is faulty, replace it at the shop.
3- MY OWN SOLUTION: based on something I read many times, the solution was to apply DRY HEAT for at least 45 mins. What I did, based on averaging out many experiences I read online, was to remove the SD Card and SIM, remove battery, I heated up a toaster oven for 10 minutes, waited until the temperature was at about 60-70 degrees Celsius, SHUT DOWN THE HEAT, put the phone on its screen on a plate, screen facing down and covered by a cloth to protect it from direct contact with metal, then all inside the oven. The oven is a relatively big one, so phone was AWAY FROM A SOURCE OF DIRECT HEAT. I closed the lid, then every while 15 minutes I would heat the oven for 40 seconds to maintain the temp. This is LIKE (ALTERNATIVE SOLUTION) leaving your phone in the glove compartment of your car while its parked in a sunny spot, to find it really hot in the morning and tough to touch for a while. TO CONTINUE, after the phone was out of the oven (I can't believe I am saying this), I left the phone overnight in a dry area for 8 hours (could need less time). Then, I put everything back in, plugged it, and THE PHONE IS WORKING PERFECTLY NOW!
NOTE that solution number 3 could affect your keyboard buttons if heat is too much. It may cause the glue holding the keys to melt a bit. Be delicate with your keyboard after you restore your phone.
Again, I only did this YESTERDAY. With the exception of some keypad stickiness, the phone is working perfectly now.
I hope this was useful
B.
EDIT: Today is the First of May, phone is still working without a glitch
N.B. Press the Thank you button if you wanna congratulate me on daring to toast my milestone in the name of scientific inquiry
SECOND EDIT: Phone did it again for 2 days. Applied the same method, and it worked again. I think partially it happened because I was in a very humid location.
That didn't work for me, I had no option but to replace the touchscreen/gorila glass.
I love the idea of toasting a milestone
Thought with all my aggression against Moto, I think I just might leave it in there
Luckily I dont have these problems so I wont get tempted
AirLancer said:
I love the idea of toasting a milestone
Thought with all my aggression against Moto, I think I just might leave it in there
Luckily I dont have these problems so I wont get tempted
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to admit, I cared litte whether or not this actually worked. I just wanted to toast it But it did work, so
Pretty tempted to try this out, I think I will when I have free time.
My phone had the dead zone problem for 2 months now, but in some very rare cases, like when it's a very hot day, the screen will work normally for a minute or something. Then it goes back to dead part. I assume this would fix it?
Lesiroth said:
Pretty tempted to try this out, I think I will when I have free time.
My phone had the dead zone problem for 2 months now, but in some very rare cases, like when it's a very hot day, the screen will work normally for a minute or something. Then it goes back to dead part. I assume this would fix it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it DOES indeed work on hot days, then it means the phone is not entirely dead. But I would suggest you do something less drastic first, such as the Glove Compartment method. No responsibility though
If you're trying to remove moisture, you could also try putting it in a baggie of crystaline cat litter (NOT the clay kind!) - this stuff is sold at a MUCH higher price as a way to save a phone from water damage, but it's the exact same substance. Does a great job removing moisture. It's the same sort of silica gel that's in those packets in medicine/vitamins that says "Dessicant - do not eat".
Or you could just put it in a sealed bowl with raw rice for a couple of days... this is the best and cheapest way (and then you have the silicon "grains", the ones that you find in shoe boxes or computer parts boxes).
Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk
CybeRNerO said:
Or you could just put it in a sealed bowl with raw rice for a couple of days... this is the best and cheapest way (and then you have the silicon "grains", the ones that you find in shoe boxes or computer parts boxes).
Sent from my Milestone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty sure that rice doesn't do anything, I don't know how that started as a suggestion, but its not better than anything else; its not known to be absorbant, but the silicon is.
I've tried the method but the right segment of the digitizer still doesn't work.
My biggest issue with regards to "lack of responsiveness" are the 4 capacitive buttons. Pressing the Home key is always hit and miss. I know I hit it all the time because I can feel the vibration feedback but it only goes to homescreen 50% of the time.
Will also be testing this out as soon as I have the spare time. My screen started acting up after I accidentally put my milestone in a small beer spill at a party Hopefully this will work out for me too!
Abazel said:
I've tried the method but the right segment of the digitizer still doesn't work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Luckily for me, I was still under warranty, heh. Cause I had insurance. This is my second Droid this has happened to. Hopefully my replacement won't do the same thing.
How many times did you reheat the oven? I tried just once and it didn't help. My phone has been having this problem since January.
decon89 said:
How many times did you reheat the oven? I tried just once and it didn't help. My phone has been having this problem since January.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel I am on a cooking show
Well, depends on your over. Mainly I was trying to maintain a temp varying between 50-60 c. Mostly 50, but sometimes 60 to up the ante a bit and make sure things stay warm. 30 minutes at least. However, I have to say that I did this twice in 6 weeks, and after that the phone just died again, and I found my warranty card and sent it there to be fixed, and they fixed it, but ruined something else.
If you have the warranty card, take your phone and send it to them Someone told me the method worked and the phone has been good for quite a while, but most of us seem to re-experience the issue after a while.
I've been having these issues for a few days now too, and I think I know why. I've been using this Milestone for 4 months now, and I never had this problem until a few days ago. What I noticed yesterday was that after some acting up, the phone started working properly again. So I ran Touch Test. And I noticed that if I pressed really hard on the top side of the phone(where the logo and the ear piece are located) it started acting up again. My first impression was that the glue holding down the gorilla glass was loose. So I left the phone as usual on my night stand and then I tried the same thing with the pressing on the same area. Guess what? It didn't happen again. Now there seems to be no problem. So I tried to remember what happened yesterday before the screen started acting up, and I remember talking to my wife for a while when I was in my car. Yesterday was a pretty hot day and I was a little sweaty when I talked to her. Now since only that specific part with the earpiece was causing this issue(I tried pressing equally hard on other areas without any problem my guess is that the insulation between the earpiece and the touchscreen has been breached. Maybe because of all the sweat that went in there in time. You know the salt and acids in the swear are known to melt things, and poor quality glue is among them.
How to fix this? I do not know yet, but I do have a good idea that I'd like to share. I want to buy a screen protector foil, and put just a little band around the ear piece. That would probably lower my in-call volume, but since the Milestone is very loud anyway I hope it the quality of the calls won't be too much affected. After that I'll use it in normal conditions again and see if the ghosting happens again.
try completely formatting your SD CARD/PARTITION.
& then reinstalling using (FAT 32/EXT 2, 3, or 4)
sometimes traces from the previous ROM might interfare with touch codecs (maybe)
just trying to help. had similar issue & this is what i did.
bandroid842 said:
NOTE: THIS SOLUTION IS POTENTIALLY DAMAGING AND MAY NOT WORK FOR EVERYONE
PROBLEM: touch screen acts erratic, notification bar keeps opening, screen appears to be touched by someone else continuously (Ghost Touch), and parts of the screen DO NOT RESPOND TO TOUCH.
MY OWN SPECIFIC CASE: I had the Ghost Touch issue for 3 days suddenly without intro, which often used to go away after a reboot or two, then phone worked normally after I removed the battery and left it in a dry area (in a closed drawer between books, no air entering, very dry atmosphere), however the RIGHT SIDE of the screen (Search button, rightmost letters [L and Delete and sometimes ENTER] do not work. If the phone is in normal landscape, you cannot open the notification bar by dragging it normally.
DIAGNOSIS: for some people, the problem is more severe. The Digitiser itself could be malfunctioning and has to be fixed, while for others it could be a true problem with the screen itself. However, for MANY OF US, it is a problem of HUMIDITY. The humidity sensors are causing the phone to act like that. Some say part of this problem happens because the way the keypad affects the phone internally as you open and close it a lot.
SOLUTIONS:
1- To be safe: send the phone to the shop. Ask them to open the phone and apply an extra layer of insulation, in case the digitiser and the screen are okay.
2- If something is faulty, replace it at the shop.
3- MY OWN SOLUTION: based on something I read many times, the solution was to apply DRY HEAT for at least 45 mins. What I did, based on averaging out many experiences I read online, was to remove the SD Card and SIM, remove battery, I heated up a toaster oven for 10 minutes, waited until the temperature was at about 60-70 degrees Celsius, SHUT DOWN THE HEAT, put the phone on its screen on a plate, screen facing down and covered by a cloth to protect it from direct contact with metal, then all inside the oven. The oven is a relatively big one, so phone was AWAY FROM A SOURCE OF DIRECT HEAT. I closed the lid, then every while 15 minutes I would heat the oven for 40 seconds to maintain the temp. This is LIKE (ALTERNATIVE SOLUTION) leaving your phone in the glove compartment of your car while its parked in a sunny spot, to find it really hot in the morning and tough to touch for a while. TO CONTINUE, after the phone was out of the oven (I can't believe I am saying this), I left the phone overnight in a dry area for 8 hours (could need less time). Then, I put everything back in, plugged it, and THE PHONE IS WORKING PERFECTLY NOW!
NOTE that solution number 3 could affect your keyboard buttons if heat is too much. It may cause the glue holding the keys to melt a bit. Be delicate with your keyboard after you restore your phone.
Again, I only did this YESTERDAY. With the exception of some keypad stickiness, the phone is working perfectly now.
I hope this was useful
B.
EDIT: Today is the First of May, phone is still working without a glitch
N.B. Press the Thank you button if you wanna congratulate me on daring to toast my milestone in the name of scientific inquiry
SECOND EDIT: Phone did it again for 2 days. Applied the same method, and it worked again. I think partially it happened because I was in a very humid location.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for that Solution.
It fixed the Issue of my friends MS without other problems
I'll have to try and the oven methode again. My phone has started to really act up again.
I've tried to install new roms, wipe ect. and it doesn't help with the screen.
Have anyone tried to replace the digiziter? They are pretty cheap on ebay
My milestone started freaking out just an hour ago. No more warranty here but I'm not brave enough to do the oven method. Had anybody tried the Rice alternative?

Possible MAJOR discovery regarding battery/red lite issue.

So I'm one of the people that's been having major issues with the red light/ no boot issue.
I think the issue (for me at least) is a hardware flaw. Upon completing the steps to reboot the phone (take case apart, disconnect battery, connect power, wait for battery charge indication, reconnect battery) I can get the phone to boot and function just fine.
I have discovered that upon screwing the battery connection back into the phone, it applies a bit too much pressure on the connection which sends the phone back into the redlite "no boot" mode.
TL;DR, If the battery is connected to the phone too "tightly" with the screws, the issue is caused.
Hardware flaw? I think so.
My Fix? Took out the connecting screws, the connection seems to hold without them and there is no more pressure on the connection without the added thickness of the screws (when putting the back of the case on)
EDIT: Here's a video of what I'm talking about, for those of you who haven't had to deal with this (yet?)
Video of Issue
Hey Google/LG, if you're reading this, Send me a new phone, please!! This is unacceptable!
Good find. Maybe you could try packing the back in places so that no pressure is put on the battery
Michealtbh said:
Good find. Maybe you could try packing the back in places so that no pressure is put on the battery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good Idea, will try it if I encounter this problem again. Seems to hold up, though, even when pressing on the back of the case where the connection is made (down and to the left about 0.5cm from the "n" on the back of the case).
bump--I think people should really see this.
Nice find dude!
I always thought it was a software issue but turns out it is not!
It's still strange that most people have encountered the issue when benchmarking.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
alwaysbboy said:
It's still strange that most people have encountered the issue when benchmarking.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps it's just a coincidence. I'll still stay away from benchmarking, though.
alwaysbboy said:
I always thought it was a software issue but turns out it is not!
It's still strange that most people have encountered the issue when benchmarking.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the finding is true then here my theory on why it happens mostly during benchmarks.When you run benchmarks, your phone and battery heats up a lot. This can cause the connectors to expand causing screws to get tightened.
i can confirmed this find is true, altough its kinda late for me to read this thread.
here is my version.
im a proud owner of nexus 4. got my phone from the 1st batch order, and the original bumper also :angel:
this morning while watching my kid at school, got nothing to do but overclocking my nexus 4 with morfic's latest beta kernel.
silly i put the min and max at 1.8++ghz and run an antutu test on it. and in another 5 seconds the N4 turned off and practically dead. all buttons combo were negatives. as soon as i arrived home i plugged in the official charger. it just blinking red. few moments after i plugged in the N4 to my laptop. blinking red and driver installed notification showed up. then the red light gone. like forever... no red when i put it on charger nor when connected to the laptop.
ok its a dead meat. im in JAKARTA n got my n4 from the US. none of any LG service centre in my country could help me with it. and the RMA things just too far from me.
so since i left with zero to none option, i was wondering "what if i take off the battery?"
i remember read an article from ifixit about how to teardown the nexus 4 then i found the link.
here it is:
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+4+Teardown/11781/1
what i did was:
1. follow steps number 6 [pictures #1 & #2]
2. number 7 [pictures #1 & #2]
3 and number 9. [pictures #1 & #2. no need do the pictures #3]
4. see the white wire with blue sticky tape right next to the battery? i dont know what is that but i unplugged the golden head off also.
i left it that way for 10 minutes before i put it back all together again [ including the screw battery port holder. just dont screwed them too tight. give a small effort to none power ]
all done and i pressed the power button. its ON like nothing happened before.
when im about to share my fixed in the other thread, i got someone direct me to this thread. so here i am confirming this fixed is legit
Wow!! This fixed my nexus that didn't even have an LED light. You are a life saver!
It's been dead for a week and I was just waiting on warranty. But now it's up and running like a bawse!
Hi
ethugp3pp3r said:
So I'm one of the people that's been having major issues with the red light/ no boot issue.
I think the issue (for me at least) is a hardware flaw. Upon completing the steps to reboot the phone (take case apart, disconnect battery, connect power, wait for battery charge indication, reconnect battery) I can get the phone to boot and function just fine.
I have discovered that upon screwing the battery connection back into the phone, it applies a bit too much pressure on the connection which sends the phone back into the redlite "no boot" mode.
TL;DR, If the battery is connected to the phone too "tightly" with the screws, the issue is caused.
Hardware flaw? I think so.
My Fix? Took out the connecting screws, the connection seems to hold without them and there is no more pressure on the connection without the added thickness of the screws (when putting the back of the case on)
EDIT: Here's a video of what I'm talking about, for those of you who haven't had to deal with this (yet?)
Video of Issue
Hey Google/LG, if you're reading this, Send me a new phone, please!! This is unacceptable!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is simply a fault with your phone. Most likely a chip or component isn't soldered correctly or you have a dry joint. When the board is flexed by some force it is breaking or making the connection.
The time will come when even this "fix" for you stops working.
The reason the phone is sometimes failing during stress tests and not coming back on is a safety device. The lithium battery is reporting it is under stress or too hot and the phone shuts down to avoid an explosion. Because there is a big chance the battery is permanently damaged and so potentially dangerous the phone remains in a safety condition wanting to be returned to the manufacturer for testing. Lithium batteries if damaged can explode, imagine if a phone explodes next to your face while you are talking on it? The manufacturers, not wanting a law suit that disfiguring someone might bring, deliberately er on the side of caution.
It's a bit like the limp home mode some cars have when they detect some parameter outside of the norm. You might be able to reset that back to normal by some hack found on the internet but it hasn't fixed the underlying cause.
Regards
Phil
This thread should be stickied as this is a common problem with the Nexus 4.
Just wrote this to bump the thread back to first page so more people can see
Sticky This!
This needs to be stickied!
I'm having a similar issue with my completely stock nexus 4. I can only turn the phone on when it is connected to charger, but this is also very rare. If I manage to turn it on, it shows I have -22% battery left and this doesnt change. I can enter bootloader when charger is connected. I have left it charging overnight, but still it doesn't boot without the charger connected.
Any idea if the fix described here can help me? Can LG service somehow see that the phone has been opened?
I live in unsupported country, so I can't send the phone back to Google. My only hope is this fix here or my local LG service, but I'm not sure if my local LG can even help me, because the phone is not sold here.
Ahhh good thoughts. I've got a replacement battery on the way for that reason... Hopefully it's a problem there.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
Nexus 4, 8Gb, in UK
It arrived Sat (2 days ago) @ 80% charge & about 5 mins after unpacking I noticed it was the 8Gb & not the 16Gb I had ordered
Phoned google for RMA - currently awaiting replacement.
Repacked it, took it to work, had a play, installed maybe 3 apps, browsed a lot though - reboxed it afterward. as I had no case & as I didn't want to risk the RMA I decided not to take it next day.
Case arrives from amazon & I'm back to work today, so I decided to risk it - nexus battery almost dead & powered off.
Connected charger - nexus indicates charging on screen when power button is pushed.
As I lift the phone to power it on 20mins later, charging display blanks & red light starts blinking - swap cable, charger & check connections - all ok - nothing but a red light on a dead phone.
*panic*
read internet: wasted half an hour on button combos streetfighter would be proud of
Found this post here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=37461951&postcount=3
"Seems to hold up, though, even when pressing on the back of the case where the connection is made (down and to the left about 0.5cm from the "n" on the back of the case)."
After pressing down around there, the red light clears instantly, small vibration & nexus is now charging again.
Am glad I'm sending this unit back, if replacement does this within 30 days then I will give up on LG & wait for next gphone; between this and the glass cracking issues I read of, this may not be the best nexus ever quality wise.
tl;dr Almost virgin Nexus got red light & unresponsive on first charge. After all else failing, firmly pressing the back, directly above the battery connection area immediately revived it...
kwft said:
Nexus 4, 8Gb, in UK
It arrived Sat (2 days ago) @ 80% charge & about 5 mins after unpacking I noticed it was the 8Gb & not the 16Gb I had ordered
Phoned google for RMA - currently awaiting replacement.
Repacked it, took it to work, had a play, installed maybe 3 apps, browsed a lot though - reboxed it afterward. as I had no case & as I didn't want to risk the RMA I decided not to take it next day.
Case arrives from amazon & I'm back to work today, so I decided to risk it - nexus battery almost dead & powered off.
Connected charger - nexus indicates charging on screen when power button is pushed.
As I lift the phone to power it on 20mins later, charging display blanks & red light starts blinking - swap cable, charger & check connections - all ok - nothing but a red light on a dead phone.
*panic*
read internet: wasted half an hour on button combos streetfighter would be proud of
Found this post here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=37461951&postcount=3
"Seems to hold up, though, even when pressing on the back of the case where the connection is made (down and to the left about 0.5cm from the "n" on the back of the case)."
After pressing down around there, the red light clears instantly, small vibration & nexus is now charging again.
Am glad I'm sending this unit back, if replacement does this within 30 days then I will give up on LG & wait for next gphone; between this and the glass cracking issues I read of, this may not be the best nexus ever quality wise.
tl;dr Almost virgin Nexus got red light & unresponsive on first charge. After all else failing, firmly pressing the back, directly above the battery connection area immediately revived it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So you didn't even take it apart to revive it? Interesting... I haven't had this issue myself in the 2 and a half months with this phone, but nice to know what to do if it arises.
It sounds like it could be dodgy solder joints, although I'm tempted to say that I'm currently ****ting myself. Things like glass cracking doesn't worry me, people are clumsy and that usually will cause that. However, we have no control over the quality of the circuitry inside.
The thing is, the poster above says wait for the next GPhone, it's been announced for next year. So you're going to be waiting a hell of a long time. This phone I hope will suffice while you do so however.
kwft said:
After pressing down around there, the red light clears instantly, small vibration & nexus is now charging again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice to see that helps. I need a fix that allows me to "pull" on it and then push it again

An-Drone Project

Hey all! So as a bit of a computer/tablet/phone geek and and a bit of an RC Hobbyist, Ive decided to take on a little personal project to combine the two. At least a little bit to start. In the world of RC quadcopters (aka drones) the big thing that everyone is into is buying these expensive 1080P/4k go pros and other gimbal devices to record video. But not only do we want to record, we want to be able to view a live stream of what the drone sees. You can buy these FPV Cameras on the higher end for $500+.
When I bought ny first drone a fair sized flyer at nearly 2ft diameter, my first flight I decided to strap my old Galaxy S3 to the bottom and catch some cool video. Everything went well, and the video was high def and crystal clear. While there are FPV apps such as AirBoss available, unfortunately its a bit glitchy and crashes often so i didnt bother with FPV, just hit record and flew. After this I decided to start looking into purchasing a gimbal and maybe a gopro hero 3. Seems a bit silly buying a $400 camera to carry on a $100 drone, but I considered it and started browsing.
Before buying anything, I had a buddy want to see the drone fly, so on a semi full charge, I took it up, no phone attached, and after about a minute of flight, the battery went low, lost contact with the controller and helplessly watched it drift into the woods, still haven't found it.
So now instead of looking for an expensive camera, im looking to strip down my old s3 and use it as a camera, but also as a GPS locator, which will have data/gsm/gprs connections. The idea being, that not only a does screen less, make shift house, remotely controlled android device act as a camera, but it can be called from another phone (making it easy to track via sound) or worst case scenario be pin pointed on Google maps, in the event of another downed drone.
I have all the apps installed to make this work exactly how I need it to and want it to. In fact I already have the motherboard stripped out of the housing, and am able to do exactly what I want, except one thing.
The only way the phone will turn on, is with the main components from the screen housing plugged in. Its one ribbon, but its the ribbon the feeds the Screen, the digitizer the home, back and menu buttons and the micro phone and the vibrator pod. All of the components on the back side of the board, the front and rear facing cameras, the sim/tf card readers, the loud speaker, led, volume rocker etc can be disconected, as long as the main ribbon for the screen is attached, the motherboard will boot. After booting I can unplug the ribbon, and the phone will remain on, with everything working that I need to work, including remote access.
I guess the main question here is, how can I trick the phone into thinking the main ribbon is attached? Once I can get it to boot up without it being attached to that ribbon I can begin building a lightweight housing for the board and camer and a smaller battery. I thought about cutting the ribbon and just leaving it attached to the board, my only problem with that is IF it wont boot after doing that, I cant just repair the ribbon and I dont have a spare s3 for parts, which would pretty much leave me with nothing but a dead s3 in pieces lol.
I know most of what xda deals with is software development, but im hoping someone has tinkered with hard ware before. Sorry for the novel, just wanted to cover the details and eliminate getting asked why I want to do this. And for the record I want the s3 screen and housing gone for the simple fact that I can cut the weight from abouy 150 grams to less than 30 grams, which is a huge factor when flying quad copters

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