Hey everyone, I've grown tired of waiting for Asus/Google to release a dock for my nexus 7 so I built one myself. I'd like to share my work with you all.
I cut my dock out of 6.0mm thick acrylic with a 30W CO2 laser. Cutting all the pieces for one dock takes around 9 min on my machine (more watts=faster cuts). If you have access to a laser this is a very easy job. Maybe you could go use one at your local tech shop or something. The dock consists of 5 pieces that snap together and stay that way by virtue of friction. You could probably cut this design out of wood instead of plastic like I did here. That might look kinda cool.
I bought the acrylic sheet I cut the pieces out of as scrap from a local plastic store (TAP Plastics) for US$1.
The pogo pins I used are manufacturer part# 0933-0-15-20-75-14-11-0 made by Mill Max, purchased from newark.com for $1.20 each. I use bluetooth for audio so I didn't wire up the two middle stereo out pins, so my BOM comes to a grand total of US$3.40. I'm happy with the result for that price.
The dock works great. The device recognizes the dock and begins to charge first time, every time I seat the device. I've tried to avoid blocking any of the speaker grills, plugs, microphones light sensors and cameras. Unfortunately my dock does kinda block the ambient noise microphone that's right next to the pogo pin pads (stupid spot to put that).
For now I've just soldered pogo pins 1 and 4 to a 5v charger I had laying around. So charging works great.
EDIT: I'm working on making a PCB that supports:
-- stereo audio out via 1/4 in headphone jack
-- Micro USB B connector for charging
Stay tuned here for an updated parts list and schematic and PCB layout files.
As reported elsewhere on the forum, I can confirm that the device stops drawing current via the pogo pins when a USB OTG cable is plugged in (although the device still indicates that it is charging in the menu bar, seems to be a bug). So pogo pin charging while using USB OTG seems to be a no-go (pun intended!). Update: this may be fixable with a modified kernel.
I expect a 1st party dock will come out very soon since the OS software is now ready for it. Several of the features added by recent updates seem to be aimed directly at dock mode (Daydream, portrait home screen) and they work great (the daydream screensaver auto-starts properly when docked).
I'll attach some pictures of the docks I made. I made 3, two out of white and one out of black plastic. I like the black one better although the glossy acrylic in black is a fingerprint magnet.
I created the design files using the free Autocad clone software called Draftsight. I'll attach it here so anyone who wants to can get out and cut themselves a charging dock for their favorite tablet. The units for the drawing are mm. The drawing format is autocad 2010 ascii dxf.
If you do try to use my design to cut your own dock, be aware that the tolerances on the two curved side pieces are very tight to ensure that the other three pieces fit in snugly enough to hold everything together. If the cut width for your laser differs greatly from mine, you might end up with a dock that doesn't snap together or one that is loose and falls apart. Don't say I didn't warn you! In the case your dock doesn't fit together properly, you can make some very simple tweaks to the inside cuts on the side pieces to get things to go together for your laser.
The design will need some major adjustments if you use anything other than 6mm thick stock. The holes in the side pieces will need to change as will the width and possibly position of the slot in the cradle piece.
Be aware that it's actually pretty easy to put the dock together incorrectly (design flaw). There are 4 assembly possibilities that change the locations of the pogo pin holes, three of them are wrong. You'll figure that one out easily enough. The one that is tricky is the cradle piece (H-shaped piece) which is basically two rails that create a slot between them that the device rests in. If you look closely, you'll notice that the slot is not exactly centered in the piece making one rail ever so slightly thicker than the other. The thinner rail should be towards the front of the dock (there are only two ways you can assemble this part so you have a %50-%50 chance of getting this wrong if you're not careful here). If you get this wrong the device won't lean up against the back rests so it will be very unstable and will sit very awkwardly in the dock.
Cheers!
p.s. I'm happy to help anyone out who wants to try making their own dock. Ask away and I'll do my best to answer any questions.
Excellent work there. It's always great to see XDA member's ingenuity at work
Nice work I'm also in the process of finishing up my dock also..
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
do you have the design file you used to create this?
are you willing to share it? i have access to a laser cutter where i work and would quite like to make myself one of these
what program did u do your design in?
do you have the design file you used to create this?
are you willing to share it? i have access to a laser cutter where i work and would quite like to make myself one of these .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything is written in the first post ...
I created the design files using the free Autocad clone software called Draftsight. I'll attach them here so anyone who wants to can get out and cut themselves a charging dock for their favorite tablet. Unfortunately, these attachments are going to have to wait for ~12 hours because I seem to have forgotten the design files on another computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wait for the design-files too - that is a pretty project you put up there !
Michael
Thanks for the designs - will try to get it lasered the next weeks. When done, i will post some pictures !
Michael
sammy98 said:
Thanks for the designs - will try to get it lasered the next weeks. When done, i will post some pictures !
Michael
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! Looking forward to it!
Cheers mate.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=34708256#post34708256
That is my first draft of a dock i was just going to just print out on a 3d printer, but its proving difficult to get access to it as i though i was going to lol. I think i'm just going to go convert my design to somethin similar to yours where i can use the waterjet and cut out a bunch o acrylic. Thanks for the inspiration.
Quick design intent question:
Why did you leave so much room (.5" ish) on the sides of the tablet, doesn't this force you to sit there and find the right positioning so it will interface correctly with the pogos.
Also in my post is a nexus 7 file i created if anyone wants to model it against that, its so much easier to just model an offset.
---------- Post added at 07:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 PM ----------
PS, what tolerances did you incorporate into your mating parts?
bossman137 said:
Cheers mate.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=34708256#post34708256
That is my first draft of a dock i was just going to just print out on a 3d printer, but its proving difficult to get access to it as i though i was going to lol. I think i'm just going to go convert my design to somethin similar to yours where i can use the waterjet and cut out a bunch o acrylic. Thanks for the inspiration.
Quick design intent question:
Why did you leave so much room (.5" ish) on the sides of the tablet, doesn't this force you to sit there and find the right positioning so it will interface correctly with the pogos.
Also in my post is a nexus 7 file i created if anyone wants to model it against that, its so much easier to just model an offset.
---------- Post added at 07:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 PM ----------
PS, what tolerances did you incorporate into your mating parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do think it would be possible to bring the feet/side pieces in closer so that they define where the tablet would rest in the up-down (relative to tablet) degree of freedom. That could be be better than what I have done, but I'm not sure. Try it and let us know!
By moving the side pieces right next to the top and bottom of the tablet you would have to eliminate the connections between the two rails on the cradle (H-shaped) piece to make room. I like those connections because they:
1) precisely define the width of the groove that the tablet sits in
2) limit the up-down (relative to tablet) degree of freedom so there's no guess work as to where the proper docking position is (but you'd be taking care of this with the side pieces)
3) provide some additional stiffness/strength to the cradle piece
Beautiful done!
I tried making a small PCB with the pogo pins just to test if it indeed would charge and give me sound out, before i'd even bother drawing up a dock, but on mine, it just charges, there is no sound output, and it does not ask me to use the pogo pins for sound output. Running 4.1.2
I guess you're running 4,2 since you get that menu popup ?
// Per.
zapro said:
Beautiful done!
I tried making a small PCB with the pogo pins just to test if it indeed would charge and give me sound out, before i'd even bother drawing up a dock, but on mine, it just charges, there is no sound output, and it does not ask me to use the pogo pins for sound output. Running 4.1.2
I guess you're running 4,2 since you get that menu popup ?
// Per.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Audio out via the pogo pins was introduced in 4.2.
OK. Won't be upgrading anytime soon with all the bugs.
//Per.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Here is it, just gotta have it all cut out, thanks for the idea mate.
zapro said:
Beautiful done!
I tried making a small PCB with the pogo pins just to test if it indeed would charge and give me sound out, before i'd even bother drawing up a dock, but on mine, it just charges, there is no sound output, and it does not ask me to use the pogo pins for sound output. Running 4.1.2
I guess you're running 4,2 since you get that menu popup ?
// Per.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep. I was running 4.2 the popup was annoying. The 4.2.1 update eliminates it!
Although I still get a volume spike while docking/undocking while playing music over bluetooth.
bossman137 said:
Here is it, just gotta have it all cut out, thanks for the idea mate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey, that looks pretty cool!
I might raise the height of the front piece there so the lip comes up in front of the tablet a little higher. You don't want the tablet popping out while you're tapping on the top of the screen. Also note that your back piece will partially cover your speaker grill, but that's probably NBD.
Ta Da, works great, I'll plug in the audio and power soon. I purposely designed the front to barely reach over its very closely calculated tolerances and that puppy aint coming out accidently
bossman137 said:
Ta Da, works great, I'll plug in the audio and power soon. I purposely designed the front to barely reach over its very closely calculated tolerances and that puppy aint coming out accidently
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very nice!! Any chance you can share your model with us?
bossman137 said:
Ta Da, works great, I'll plug in the audio and power soon. I purposely designed the front to barely reach over its very closely calculated tolerances and that puppy aint coming out accidently
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is one sweet looking stand you got yourself there. If I had the means to cut one out myself I would certainly do it.
jonnyg1097 said:
That is one sweet looking stand you got yourself there. If I had the means to cut one out myself I would certainly do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
snyluc13 said:
Very nice!! Any chance you can share your model with us?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, please share...
www.newark.com/mill-max/0933-0-15-2...pin-2a/dp/83R7486?Ntt=0933-0-15-20-75-14-11-0
Here is the link to the pogo pins. Just thought that I would save some people some time.
Related
Hey everyone,
I've had my Sprint Hero for about 2 months now and am loving it - I haven't even felt the need to root it yet.
But having bought Mobitobi's awesome sleep/alarm apps from the Market, I'm now searching for a good cradle for my Hero to sit on my nightstand and act as my alarm clock.
I've only found a couple options out there. The best looking one (includes 3.5 stereo out) is here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290372582892, but I received it yesterday and realized after many angry emails back and forth to the seller that this dock is actually not specialized for a Hero, but is actually a TP2 dock that the seller claims "some buyers say it works with their Hero too so that's why I listed it that way." Bummer, I know. Why anyone would talk about how awesome this dock is when the phone footprint slot is so huge compared to your phone and is so obviously not stable is beyond me.
The other option that's widely available is this: http://www.wirelessground.com/sherocradle2nd.html?productid=sherocradle2nd&channelid=FROOG, but after this first debacle I'm hesitant to buy.
Have any of you gotten a cradle/dock for your CDMA Hero, and if so, which one, where did you get it, and how well does it work for you? I'm not even interested in a second battery charger, or 3.5 stereo out, but I need something that will keep my phone stable enough to be able to withstand forceful touches of the snooze button on my screen without toppling over!
tduck said:
Hey everyone,
I've had my Sprint Hero for about 2 months now and am loving it - I haven't even felt the need to root it yet.
But having bought Mobitobi's awesome sleep/alarm apps from the Market, I'm now searching for a good cradle for my Hero to sit on my nightstand and act as my alarm clock.
I've only found a couple options out there. The best looking one (includes 3.5 stereo out) is here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290372582892, but I received it yesterday and realized after many angry emails back and forth to the seller that this dock is actually not specialized for a Hero, but is actually a TP2 dock that the seller claims "some buyers say it works with their Hero too so that's why I listed it that way." Bummer, I know. Why anyone would talk about how awesome this dock is when the phone footprint slot is so huge compared to your phone and is so obviously not stable is beyond me.
The other option that's widely available is this: http://www.wirelessground.com/sherocradle2nd.html?productid=sherocradle2nd&channelid=FROOG, but after this first debacle I'm hesitant to buy.
Have any of you gotten a cradle/dock for your CDMA Hero, and if so, which one, where did you get it, and how well does it work for you? I'm not even interested in a second battery charger, or 3.5 stereo out, but I need something that will keep my phone stable enough to be able to withstand forceful touches of the snooze button on my screen without toppling over!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i use this one
http://www.all4cellular.com/my-touch-3g-docking-station-black-1.html
702DROID said:
i use this one
http://www.all4cellular.com/my-touch-3g-docking-station-black-1.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice! I've been searching for this too, but I need a 3.5 mm jack as well. This looks like it fits the bill, and even matches my car stereo (where this will be going).
Up to this point I've been using a dock made for my old htc touch that I hacked by moving the usb jack to the center and flipping it 180 deg.
katmandu421 said:
Nice! I've been searching for this too, but I need a 3.5 mm jack as well. This looks like it fits the bill, and even matches my car stereo (where this will be going).
Up to this point I've been using a dock made for my old htc touch that I hacked by moving the usb jack to the center and flipping it 180 deg.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it has a 3.5 jack in the back ...mine does
702DROID said:
i use this one
http://www.all4cellular.com/my-touch-3g-docking-station-black-1.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thats a great price and seems to have free shipping.
I would like to find one that is horizontal, esp for apps like slacker/pandora and desktop clocks etc, the vertical ones are nice... but not exactly what I'm looking for
deos it fit with the Siedio 3500MHa battery backing?
702DROID said:
i use this one
http://www.all4cellular.com/my-touch-3g-docking-station-black-1.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's very pretty and a nice price, but the only thing holding it upright is the miniusb connector. That's just not secure enough for me personally. Has anyone else used something different?
I notice they have it in black too, when I followed the link above it takes you to the white for some reason...
Anyone have any pictures of the phone in the doc? Just curious about the fit.
lugose said:
I notice they have it in black too, when I followed the link above it takes you to the white for some reason...
Anyone have any pictures of the phone in the doc? Just curious about the fit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the black one on my nightstand at home, if I remember I'll take a pic tonight with it mounted. I was gonna order one online, but found it at BestBuy when I was buying my new bluetooth. I think it was $12
I will re-ask johnsongrantr's question. Are there any horizontal cradles? I currently use my wallet to prop the phone up horizontally at work It actually works well and makes it easier to use things like youtube.
flexgrip said:
I will re-ask johnsongrantr's question. Are there any horizontal cradles? I currently use my wallet to prop the phone up horizontally at work It actually works well and makes it easier to use things like youtube.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EDIT: Nevermind. It was the GSM version.
that last one says not compatible with Sprint Hero
Since I have yet to find a good cradle, here is what I use in the interim. Albeit it does not provide charging capabilities, or the fact that I have to flip the phone upside down or lay it side ways to charge it, it gets the job done while at work lol
http://androidforums.com/sprint-htc-hero/17311-lol-hero-stand.html
do any cradles allow the use of a case? I have the snap case from the sprint store and wanted a cradle.
I went the Michael's, the craft store and picked up some black modeling clay that hardens in the oven.
I then molded a bunch of the clay together into a horizontal stand, adding a square hole on one side for the charging cable.
Heat fired it in the oven, inserted the cable and added a little hot glue, and viola! I've got my horizontal night stand for my clock applications. Total cost of about $9 I believe in clay.
I've still got to sand it, but because it works and I don't really care if it's smooth, I'm not going to get to sanding anytime soon.
Just an idea. This way, you can make it look however you want.
I am wondering if this one would work:
http://www.thepocketsolution.com/PSI-43943/HTC+Kaiser+Horizontal+Powered+USB+Cradle.html
It has a very similar mini-usb port.
Sirchuk said:
I went the Michael's, the craft store and picked up some black modeling clay that hardens in the oven.
I then molded a bunch of the clay together into a horizontal stand, adding a square hole on one side for the charging cable.
Heat fired it in the oven, inserted the cable and added a little hot glue, and viola! I've got my horizontal night stand for my clock applications. Total cost of about $9 I believe in clay.
I've still got to sand it, but because it works and I don't really care if it's smooth, I'm not going to get to sanding anytime soon.
Just an idea. This way, you can make it look however you want.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's actually a really interesting idea. Could you maybe take pictures? I'm curious what it turned out like
Can't post URLs because I'm new but Goto BoxWave.com... 'Sprint Hero' down the right hand side, Cradle's & Mounts..
$53.00 for the one with the spare battery charging slot...
I'm considering it.
>>>>>><<<<<< PDF With All Steps And Images Added For Your Viewing/Downloading Pleasure >>>>>><<<<<<
***If this does not belong here I appologize, and feel free to move this if necessary. I just figured the development community is most likely to take this "upgrade" on***
After seeing that someone used Palm's wireless charger on their non-palm phone; I decided to put one on my Droid Incredible.
***This was done to a completely stock Dinc. I did not use any special back, and the stock back gets to stay on (unlike in the other video that I saw)
Wireless Charging the Droid Incredible
**Disclaimer: This will void your warranty, and if you solder something wrong will probably break your phone. With that said I can in no way be held accountable for anything that occurs while performing this “upgrade” to your phone.
>>>>If anyone knows where I can buy that little void sticker that you will see in a picture below, please let me know! If we can get that sticker then our warranty is not voided by doing this.
Supplies:
1.Palm touchstone charger http://www.shopping.hp.com/product/handheld/categories/palm/4/accessories/FB300AA%23AC3
2.Palm touchstone phone back http://www.shopping.hp.com/store/product/product_detail/FB306AA%23AC3?
3.Micro USB cable
4.Soldering Iron (the finer the tip on this the better)
5.Torx T6 screw driver
6.Safe pry tool (or a small flat head screwdriver)
7.Very tiny insulated wires (I just pulled mine out of a USB cable that I cut up)
8.Electrical Tape
9.[Optional] Multimeter to test that you actually made a good connection
How To (Images are of a higher quality (12mp) so I had to stick them in zip files to get them on here):
1.The palm touchstone phone back has a sticker inside of it that encases the wireless charging receiver, so you need to peel this off. Once it is peeled off it will look like this (without the wires soldered onto it):
(Images can be seen in: Palm Receiver.7z)
2.Remove the battery cover and the battery then unscrew the back from your phone (please view a tare down video for details, there are plenty of them on you tube that I used for a reference.)
1.All you need is a torx t6 screwdriver and a safe pry tool, I used a small flat head screwdriver and it worked just fine. Unscrew the 4 screws around the sides and then carefully pry off every place that the battery cover clips on, as they also hold on the red back.
(Images can be seen in: Dinc Inside.7z)
3.Solder on some wires to the USB connector as shown in the below image without soldering onto the pins next to them. This is difficult and takes some time and patience, since these connectors are very small and close (note the polarity in the image, notated in red).
A.Also it is necessary to place a piece of electrical tape over the components right next to the connector (Green box in the image) as they will short out the power and make it impossible to charge your phone if you do not (I found that out the hard way and went back and fixed it).
B.One final note here is that I had to melt down the red phone backing inside to allow the cables to get past the case. See the green rectangle in the image above for where I had to do that. I just used my soldering iron and melted it down, it makes a pretty nice indention for the wires to fit through.
(Images can be seen in: Dinc USB.7z)
4.Now push out the rubber plug in the red phone backing next to the USB cover (this is encircled in Green in the image from step 2).
A.Run the cables that you just solder on through that so that they are sticking through to the battery compartment on your phone.
B.You can also stick on the palm receiver to the inside of your phone cover (note the direction and placement, as this is necessary to close your cover).
3.Note that I placed electrical tape over the wires. This was necessary to keep them from breaking off of the USB connector since the solder points are so small.
(Images can be seen in: Almost Done.7z)
5.Solder on the wires to the palm charger receiver and you are done. Now you just need to carefully place the wires towards the middle of the phone so that you can close the back of your phone entirely (this is another reason why the wires need to be small).
A.Note the polarity of the connection.
B.Also I put a piece of electrical tape over the connections on the palm charger receiver to protect them (not shown in the image).
(Images can be seen in: Wireless Charger.7z)
Here is a video of the end product and how it works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOMVJ-vmWpg
Also I just verified that my compass is working without any problems.
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
ThugEsquire said:
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its been done with the Evo, but don't know anyone who did it with the Inc.
http://www.goodandevo.net/2010/06/h...rk-with-palm-touchstone-wireless-charger.html
Sounds really nice. Not gonna try it with mine because I'm too scared
Though shouldn't this be in accessories or general?
What are you doing to align the coils? My biggest concern that's kept me from this is the magnets also would mess up the compass sensors readings which I for one actually value.
Wow, you managed to bring me out of my months of silence in posting...
I feel honored that I can get you out of your months of silence
The coil alignment is handled by the magnets inside of the palm touchstone charger itself (the base unit that plugs into the wall). The metal objects that you can see in the "Palm Receiver.7z" file are actually not magnets, but small circular pieces of metal that get pulled towards the charger base when you get them close to each other. So when you have the phone off of the charger, there are no magnets to mess with anything
Also you will notice that there is a piece of metal behind the coil, and that seems to block the inductive signal all together (because I tried to put it on backwards to no avail). Therefore your phone is mostly protected from the inductive transmission.
The only thing that I noticed, is that the touchscreen on the phone is a little weird when it is on the charger, but I see the same side effects when plugging the phone into a "non-htc" charger (before performing this "upgrade"). **I also saw this on my Moto Droid when connecting it to a 1 amp charger, and I have seen this with multiple other touchscreen devices so I think it just has something to do with the frequency of the charger.
Also in case of any concerns: MY PHONE HAS IN NO WAY BEEN DAMAGED BY THIS "UPGRADE"
pianoplayer said:
Sounds really nice. Not gonna try it with mine because I'm too scared
Though shouldn't this be in accessories or general?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yah, it probably should be, and may get moved (which is perfectly fine by me). I put it in here because I am a developer and much more likely to do this, so I figured the development community would be more interested.
ThugEsquire said:
This could be truly amazing. I can't wait to see more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mentioned that you can't wait to see more....?
What more would you like to see? I am happy to add to the posts, but just not sure what further details you would like to see.
nevetsvsx said:
Also in case of any concerns: MY PHONE HAS IN NO WAY BEEN DAMAGED BY THIS "UPGRADE"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I trust your method, I just don't trust my shaky hands
BTW there is a multi quote button so you dont have to do a separate post for each reply
I have a rubber case on my Dinc... would I need to remove it for charging?
___________________________________
Yup.... The ones yoe momma told ya about.... Bad Seed Customs!!
I think you will be ok if it is one of those thin (about 1mm thick) rubber cases. Anything thicker than that and you would probably have to install the wireless receiver on the case itself and remove your battery cover all together.
I tested a thin rubber case that I have (no more than 1mm thick I think) that fits a Droid Eris and it charges as long as its flush to the back of my phone.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Wow, this is amazing, very well done. I think this is the first hard mod I've heard of for an Android. I guess gold cards were a sorta gray area.
I've had my Incredible modded to work with a Touchstone since around June of last year. It works great, but I must caution anyone thinking of doing this to be VERY careful. Experience with soldering and a steady hand is a must. One could fairly easily mess up their phone attempting to do this.
Could you do this with a powermat if you wanted to? I have a few laying around I could use.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Paul600k5 said:
Could you do this with a powermat if you wanted to? I have a few laying around I could use.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, if you wanna take apart one of those generic receivers and try to fit it inside your phone!
nevetsvsx said:
You mentioned that you can't wait to see more....?
What more would you like to see? I am happy to add to the posts, but just not sure what further details you would like to see.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What I originally meant was pictures. But now that you've added them and I've seen the glory, this mod is really quite impressive and I'm thrilled you shared it with us. But now that I think about it, could this also do USB wirelessly? That would be pretty amazing.
ThugEsquire said:
What I originally meant was pictures. But now that you've added them and I've seen the glory, this mod is really quite impressive and I'm thrilled you shared it with us. But now that I think about it, could this also do USB wirelessly? That would be pretty amazing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, the transmission of data wirelessly is achieved through modulated EM waves. This is simple inductance: a changing electric field creates a magnetic field, a changing magnetic field generates an electric field, so a current carrying loop placed near another loop of wire will induce current in the other loop. The receiver in the phone is engineered to "create" the "proper" amount current to charge your battery when combined with the base. In theory yes, but not with this equipment.
How does the phone treat a USB cable being plugged in - will it charge ok, and have your data transfer rates been adversely effected? I wouldn't think so, since you're only touching the power...
Mr. Spontaneous said:
How does the phone treat a USB cable being plugged in - will it charge ok, and have your data transfer rates been adversely effected? I wouldn't think so, since you're only touching the power...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used the USB charger and data transfer cables without any problems at all. Also I have copied some files off of my phone to my PC since the "upgrade" and did not notice any extended times or anything that would remotely make me think something was wrong.
I did not run a speed test before and after to see if anything slowed down, but as you said we are only touching the power pins, so I highly doubt anything has changed.
To avoid jacking Verygreens thread on usb host support, I am creating this thread for development of the Nook Color Backpack.
What is the Backpack, you ask?
The Backpack will be an open hardware based addon similar in style to the sliders used on Compaq(HP) iPaqs. It will be self contained in that it will carry its own battery source for powering USB peripherals and also a few built in goodies such as a camera module, stereo speakers(possibly amplified), and possibly a GPS module.
This thread is to help others who may want to build a similar device and to accept input from the community on its design. PLEASE, refrain from any flame wars or other similar postings.
Feel free to post with suggestions, comments or even criticism(as long as it is constructive).
Reserved for schematics and other technical details....
reserved for pics and misc. details......
Neat idea! I'm looking forward to seeing where this goes.
Subscribed
Interesting idea...
Sparkfun.com sells a bunch of stuff that would make for a good prototype:
5V 600mA boost converter and LiIon charger (w/ microusb charging port):
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10300
2Ah single LiPo cell:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8483
microUSB plug - right angle breakout:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10031
USB A socket:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9011
If you were planning to use a hub you'd need a more capable boost converter or go with 2 LiPo cells in series and step-down. For a proof-of-concept I think you can get pretty far with these parts.
pokey9000 said:
Sparkfun.com sells a bunch of stuff that would make for a good prototype:
5V 600mA boost converter and LiIon charger (w/ microusb charging port):
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10300
2Ah single LiPo cell:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/8483
microUSB plug - right angle breakout:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10031
USB A socket:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9011
If you were planning to use a hub you'd need a more capable boost converter or go with 2 LiPo cells in series and step-down. For a proof-of-concept I think you can get pretty far with these parts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks pokey. I'll check into those. As far as the plug, I'm currently looking at buying and modifying a stock cable...to retain stock charging from a high amp source. Externally I think I will be going with a standard female USB A port for power in/stock USB connectivity.
The hub I've chosen so far is a cheapo Targus unpowered. Very easy to mod into what will be required.
Really need to get on a rough draft drawing of the general layout. I work 12 hours a day in construction. Ill try hard to squeeze spare time in for this and pics of the little I have done so far this week.
Sent from my NookColor using XDA Premium App
solar panel, 1.8" hard drive, flash card reader, speakers and 3g card are some things I think might also be cool in something like this.
I am digging this idea. Can't wait to see some progress on this. If the speakers were bt then you could limit the wires some. Space for a 1/8 inch hdd would be nice because you could just use a cf card if you desired. Could really make the nook into a sort of laptop device if done right. Really can't wait to see this. Also check this out. Found it in another thread. May want to add a holder for it into the design somehow. http://www.amazon.com/ProMini-Wireless-Bluetooth-Keyboard-TouchPad/dp/B003ZJEUBI/ref=pd_sim_e_1
Good idea 3G will be appreciated.
Sent from my LogicPD Zoom2 using XDA Premium App
It took some googling for me to figure out what you were trying to do, but I see now you want to make a hard case that slides over the back of the NC with some hardware integrated.
My main criticism is that the backpack form factor is really optimized for handheld devices, and the NC is already pushing the practical weight for a handheld device. We're looking at easily another 1lb or more with this hardware, rendering it more of a docking station, at which point an actual docking station with a keyboard makes more sense.
Still, if you do want to design a backpack, consider incorporating stands and grips to make it more ergonomic. For instance, you could have fold-out tripod legs, or a picture-frame style easel, and indentations or possibly even finger loops.
Personally, I would prefer a genuine dock to serve as the 'other half of the laptop,' without requiring that the NC be either permanently attached to all that hardware or removed from its primary case.
to make the hooks that go around the side you could use sugru to mold them. i would think that would work.
I have a few thoughts.
1. I might find time to make this into my obsession for a while, as much as this interests me. My degree is in electronic engineering and I'm a pretty crafty person so perhaps I can be of assistance. I will give it some thought and see if I can contribute. So busy this days with life...
2. One of the things I need to be able to switch from a full laptop is the ability to sit this thing on my lap and work from a keyboard. With all the current cases, they are not supported properly like a hinged laptop display so they have to be on something and propped up. To be able to use some type of hinged holder that is stiff enough to hold the Nook up would be awesome. I have some ideas on how to do this, it could be the finishing touch once it's all working.
3. With the functionality that most people seem to want, I personally don't think size is that big of an issue. Why don't we figure out how to mod one of the existing iPad cases or something of that nature? That would give a slightly larger keyboard and the extra space around where the Nook would attach and/or slide into could hold the additional hardware like speakers and such. IMO, if I can have the size of the Nook and pop it into something like this when I *really* need to work or type a long email, I'm cool with a slightly larger format.
I'm struggling to keep up with some of the latest info regarding USB host & BT support on the Nook and such, but I'll see if I can read up. I'm guessing that once the source for HC is released it all becomes easier and it appears that CM7 is already making a lot of progress.
troyy0206 said:
2. One of the things I need to be able to switch from a full laptop is the ability to sit this thing on my lap and work from a keyboard.
...
3. With the functionality that most people seem to want, I personally don't think size is that big of an issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More power to you, though it sounds like the Asus Transformer is exactly what you want.
Take a look at this:http://www.energizerpowerpacks.com/us/
I have 2 of the XP4001 models, each one is the size of a small usb hard drive. It has two usb ports on it and charges my phone, digital camera, and mp3 player great.
Haven't tried it on the Nook yet...
If I get what you're trying to do, taking apart one of the XP8000 models and going from there might be a good part of the prototype puzzle?
You can find these at office supply stores, more then big box electronics stores.
pokey9000 said:
More power to you, though it sounds like the Asus Transformer is exactly what you want.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now where's the fun in just buying it already made if we can design and build it ourselves
Blue6IX said:
Take a look at this:http://www.energizerpowerpacks.com/us/
I have 2 of the XP4001 models, each one is the size of a small usb hard drive. It has two usb ports on it and charges my phone, digital camera, and mp3 player great.
Haven't tried it on the Nook yet...
If I get what you're trying to do, taking apart one of the XP8000 models and going from there might be a good part of the prototype puzzle?
You can find these at office supply stores, more then big box electronics stores.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This looks like a great battery pack. Thanks for the link.
I've been thinking more and reading more on verygreens thread...I'm start to think KISS. Battery pack and USB hub, with one port facing each way(left,right,top,bottom). Then just make a modified camera with the cord eliminated and the plug molded right into its housing. Have opposite ports facing forward and backward at top and bottom to allow for video chat or (very large) camera usage.
Some benifits of this will be more flexibility in hardware, possible use as a simple battery pack for the nook, and MUCH easier designing of the charging/bypass circuits.
Sent from my NookColor using XDA Premium App
Taosaur said:
It took some googling for me to figure out what you were trying to do, but I see now you want to make a hard case that slides over the back of the NC with some hardware integrated.
My main criticism is that the backpack form factor is really optimized for handheld devices, and the NC is already pushing the practical weight for a handheld device. We're looking at easily another 1lb or more with this hardware, rendering it more of a docking station, at which point an actual docking station with a keyboard makes more sense.
Still, if you do want to design a backpack, consider incorporating stands and grips to make it more ergonomic. For instance, you could have fold-out tripod legs, or a picture-frame style easel, and indentations or possibly even finger loops.
Personally, I would prefer a genuine dock to serve as the 'other half of the laptop,' without requiring that the NC be either permanently attached to all that hardware or removed from its primary case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see what you are saying...yeah, if I hold my nook one handed for any length of time...its heavy. As above, I have started thinking about keeping it simple. The hub I have only weighs an ounce or two, once stripped of the housing. The batteries will be the main source of weight/bulk. The charge controller is about dead simple using a picaxe 20x2 chip and very few components. Mostly it will just be a voltage source sensor and switch to transfer to the appropriate power source(battery or USB input).
I guess I haven't ever looked at this as a laptop converter, but rather as a way to complete the picture, by allowing the addition of things like a camera and microphone input that Android was made for.
Sent from my NookColor using XDA Premium App
Syco54645 said:
to make the hooks that go around the side you could use sugru to mold them. i would think that would work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure if sugru will be strong enough. Was thinking more along the lines of custom molded fiberglass. Easy enough, light, damn strong. Mayhaps ill spring for some carbon fiber
@ troyy0206....feel free to work on a seperate design as well. This isn't all about what I want...its about designing something that anyone else can duplicate or modify to their needs. As an EE, you have a leg up on most of us in terms of designing the circuitry. I'm just good at putting parts together.
Sent from my NookColor using XDA Premium App
I've been waiting for week to get my materials to make the home made stylus, finally the most important piece arrived. This took hours to get it to work right. It was a lot easier to get a working stylus for an iPod Touch, but after some tinkering, screaming, sweating and fails I got a pretty good working one. Check out my youtube video (sorry for the bad quality, did on a digital kodak camera very baaad):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujdsEt5zX8I
http://lifehacker.com/5836870/build...n-the-cheap-with-a-ballpoint-pen-and-a-sponge
Here one I read about, don't know if it would work or not though.
I just use a chop stick. Must be hundreds of them floating around my house of different styles, materials, points. Same at work just not so many. I hang on to one for a while, lose/misplace it and it'll take me a day or two to settle on another. No muss no fuss.
Quick question, can you please tell me where you got all the materials?
EverythingNook said:
Quick question, can you please tell me where you got all the materials?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The most important piece, the conductive foam, I got it from ebay. Just search conductive foam, I got a 4" x 4" still have more than half left. I'm thinking that the wire and metal casing are unnecessary, so any pen or pencil casing should do. What I have discovered so far is that the Nook stylus I made requires a large surface, like you see in the video. I wanted it to be really thin at the beginning that's why it didn't work, since the NC screen isn't as responsive as we would all want.
Anyways, the wire I used, I got it from an old coaxial cable (TV cable). Also, I got the idea from this video, which is a lot more instructive than mine...I just wanted to test it in the NC:
http://youtu.be/4YE8rGuLCtU
I think im going to try a sponge before i get conductive foam.
Very nice! Did you tried to slim the tip of conductive foam?
What is the notebook software are you using on the video?
Harlley Sathler said:
Very nice! Did you tried to slim the tip of conductive foam?
What is the notebook software are you using on the video?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At first I was trying to get the tip to be the thinnest possible, so it would mimic a ball point pen, but apparently the LCD in the NC need a bigger surface to respond to touches. I was able to get a thin version working on an iPod Touch 3G no problem. I'm going to try to make a new following the video that inspired me, I just need a more flexible wire to make it. Anyways, the app I used is called Handrite
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
Because of curiosity and creativity and inventively spirit?
These are what moves us, geeks, ahead. I did some styli myself and be proud of this.
Crwly said:
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of them dont work very well with the nook.
Crwly said:
I'm not sure why you'd go to the trouble when you can get a stylus for a couple of bucks on Amazon...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This experiment cost me less than 2 bucks, since I used everyday materials around the house. The only thing I had to buy was the foam, which I still have more than half left, maybe for making more or using them for other stuff like transporting cpus xD
Edit: Oh and you might find the foam in everyday electronics too, like HDD casings, tv remotes, etc. So you could get a working (proven to work on NC) stylus for free.
jgaf said:
This experiment cost me less than 2 bucks, since I used everyday materials around the house. The only thing I had to buy was the foam, which I still have more than half left, maybe for making more or using them for other stuff like transporting cpus xD
Edit: Oh and you might find the foam in everyday electronics too, like HDD casings, tv remotes, etc. So you could get a working (proven to work on NC) stylus for free.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where exactly in remotes, like where the battery goes?
EverythingNook said:
Where exactly in remotes, like where the battery goes?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not quite sure I remember reading it somewhere. I have seen some in an external hdd casing, it helps to reduce static
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
mgs526 said:
http://lifehacker.com/5836870/build...n-the-cheap-with-a-ballpoint-pen-and-a-sponge
Here one I read about, don't know if it would work or not though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it works and it was really easy to make
Yesterday I had my Nook sitting open on my desk, and plugged in my phone.
The cord dragged over the screen of the Nook, and the keyboard happened to be open. Everywhere the cord touched it tapped a letter.
I tried it again with the cord plugged in to AC, but not the phone...and nothing.
Plugged the phone back in, and was able to tap keys again using the cord.
Maybe we could get a battery-operated stylus that just runs power down to the tip .
I'm thinking triple-a battery, small insulated wire down to, then acting as, the tip, and simply return up to the other end of the battery.
No clue if this would be bad for the screen or not, but as long as it's a low level of power, can't see why it would be.
We have some very creative people here who have the skills to not only make something like this happen, but regulate the flow of power through the wire from the battery.
My thought is that since the screen isn't so great for a stylus on the Nook, maybe enhancing the tapping power of the stylus would help.
For anyone who has no clue what they are doing but wants to try anyways, DO NOT use exposed wire, and in any event i'm not responsible for what happens with the use/misuse/abuse of this information.
Any thoughts on this?
ETA:
Maybe a small triple-a flashlight would make a good starting base for this project, a lot of them go real cheap anymore. Just do away with the light itself, and replace it with a wire. You get a switch already built in and all that way.
Blue6IX said:
Text...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was interesting, but I must ask, will a powered stylus perform any better than bought ones or homemade foam ones?
I tried it again with the cord plugged in to AC, but not the phone...and nothing.
Plugged the phone back in, and was able to tap keys again using the cord.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Without the phone, there is no current flow on the cable, and no magnetic field around it, and so, no capacitance distortion.
Harlley Sathler said:
Without the phone, there is no current flow on the cable, and no magnetic field around it, and so, no capacitance distortion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, this I didn't know until I found out by accident. I had always just assumed there was, but now know that unless something is drawing power it's in a static state.
GuTsaV said:
That was interesting, but I must ask, will a powered stylus perform any better than bought ones or homemade foam ones?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is the question that I posed. If no one else is curious enough to find out, i'll get around to this eventually.
I have a handful of pen-light flashlights floating around here, it would be a simple matter to replace the led with a wire and find out.
When I find time to solder one in i'll let you know how it goes. My job is taking up way more time then i'd like in my life at the moment, so who knows when that'll be.
Blue6IX said:
I have a handful of pen-light flashlights floating around here, it would be a simple matter to replace the led with a wire and find out.
When I find time to solder one in i'll let you know how it goes. My job is taking up way more time then i'd like in my life at the moment, so who knows when that'll be.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you replace the LED by a wire, you will get a short-circuit on the batteries, what means that even if it works as a stylus, you will get your batteries hot and discharged very quickly.
Not to say that is dangerous if the batteries get hot!
Another way would be apply the Ohm's Law and calculate a resistor to replace the LED, but I don't know if this idea (a powered stylus) would be an energy efficient circuit...
Heres the backround on what i did to get wireless charging going...
1) get palm coil and touchstone. i bought this on ebay for 10$ (just search touchstone charging kit)
2) carefully remove the coil from the back cover of the palm phone. plastic cover first then the rest.
3) what worked easiest for me was to keep all the coil stuff stuck to the removable plastic piece holding everything together, then you can simply stick it in the back of our active covers. (make sure when moving the magnets all the positive sides are facing towards the dock)
4) Connecting it. I tried doing this a couple different ways and i eventually ended up pulling tiny copper wire out of computer speaker cable and used it like a twist tie on the phone terminals (then small amount of electrical tape to separate them...which worked out fine)*I attempted to do the same on the coil side of the connection but that was a bust so i ended up soldering it.. not my first choice but since its on the palm coil not my active I did it.*
5) you should be all good to go at this point
here are some pics too and of course if you some of mess your phone up...its not my fault
Video- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvO01b1CKBk
feel free to pm if ya got a question me... I am leaving the country tomorrow night for a week, but ill try to get back to ya
happy modding
in the picture with highlighting yellow goes to left phone terminal(positive) and brown goes to right teminal (negative)
bdgarel said:
Heres the backround on what i did to get wireless charging going...
1) get palm coil and touchstone. i bought this on ebay for 10$ (just search touchstone charging kit)
2) carefully remove the coil from the back cover of the palm phone. plastic cover first then the rest.
3) what worked easiest for me was to keep all the coil stuff stuck to the removable plastic piece holding everything together, then you can simply stick it in the back of our active covers. (make sure when moving the magnets all the positive sides are facing towards the dock)
4) Connecting it. I tried doing this a couple different ways and i eventually ended up pulling tiny copper wire out of computer speaker cable and used it like a twist tie on the phone terminals (then small amount of electrical tape to separate them...which worked out fine)*I attempted to do the same on the coil side of the connection but that was a bust so i ended up soldering it.. not my first choice but since its on the palm coil not my active I did it.*
5) you should be all good to go at this point
here are some pics too and of course if you some of mess your phone up...its not my fault
Video- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvO01b1CKBk
feel free to pm if ya got a question me... I am leaving the country tomorrow night for a week, but ill try to get back to ya
happy modding
in the picture with highlighting yellow goes to left phone terminal and brown goes to right
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This video seems very helpful with the process, just wish i knew which side was pos and which is neg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHw1QIPwkZU
EDIT: i see the pics thank that helps!
joshuadjohnson22 said:
This video seems very helpful with the process, just wish i knew which side was pos and which is neg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHw1QIPwkZU
EDIT: i see the pics thank that helps!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Use a multimeter...if you dont know how, you probably shouldn't attempt this hack and should wait for an aftermarket back plate to come out
Out of curiosity, how strong are these magnets? Am I going to have to make sure that my phone gets nowhere near my credit cards (and other magnetic cards, media, etc.)?
jt3 said:
Out of curiosity, how strong are these magnets? Am I going to have to make sure that my phone gets nowhere near my credit cards (and other magnetic cards, media, etc.)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are fairly strong but I have yet to have any issues with my cards...however I usually keep my phone in a separate pocket
Have you tested the phones waterproof capabilities since you did this mod? I love the idea, want to do it, but im on the fence, as it seems it would make it very easy to make the waterproofing gasket fail with a small wire.... on the other hand, you dont have to take the back off, or open the charging port, so if it doesn't void the waterproofing, it could be even better
Obviously, if any wire or any part of the wireless receiver protrudes over the seal, the water resistance will be compromised, but that's not the only issue.
In the back panel replacement sticker on the back of the S4A, it tells you to press under the camera LED. Pressing there engages the rubber seal. The issue is that any of these non-oem wireless receivers is going to slightly lift the central portion of the back away from the phone. Thus, even if no part of the seal-line is breached, I still wouldn't trust that the seal could engage fully.
Don't get me wrong... I'm going to do something similar, since I'd rather have wireless charging. Still... until an OEM wireless charging backplate comes from Samsung, I'd assume it's an either/or situation. Wireless charging OR water resistance.
jt3 said:
Obviously, if any wire or any part of the wireless receiver protrudes over the seal, the water resistance will be compromised, but that's not the only issue.
In the back panel replacement sticker on the back of the S4A, it tells you to press under the camera LED. Pressing there engages the rubber seal. The issue is that any of these non-oem wireless receivers is going to slightly lift the central portion of the back away from the phone. Thus, even if no part of the seal-line is breached, I still wouldn't trust that the seal could engage fully.
Don't get me wrong... I'm going to do something similar, since I'd rather have wireless charging. Still... until an OEM wireless charging backplate comes from Samsung, I'd assume it's an either/or situation. Wireless charging OR water resistance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will fix the wire issue by using copper tape. I'm excited to try it...
I am doing this mod tonight and I thought I would share some information.
See below for the information I have gathered:
Yellow lines = Copper tape- as you can tell it gets very cramped around the end because of the gasket. I may need to use a different path or wires like the OP. The important stuff to gather from this is which is positive and which is negative on both the phone and the palm pre touchstone.
Nice idea, curious to see how this works out.
Update
My copper tape has not arrived but I installed everything else. It does appear that the coil makes the rear housing push out which leads me to believe it will not do well to repel water away from the seal during extended use but I would prefer wireless charging
If you plan on using a case I would recommend ordering stronger magnets from supermagnets.com part number Disc - D1046. These should work well with any case and it will fit more snug because they are a lot stronger. I will update with photos once the copper tape is installed and everything is working.
Am I missing something? Why doesn't the Samsung wireless charging kit work or the wireless receiver tags you can get for the S4 so you can use a Qi charger?
Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
holysnikey said:
Am I missing something? Why doesn't the Samsung wireless charging kit work or the wireless receiver tags you can get for the S4 so you can use a Qi charger?
Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The battery door is different. In theory it will work but you would have to figure out a way to gut the back plate and that would be a lot harder than palm's touchstone mod. Or just wait for the active's wireless back plate to be released. This is a lot cheaper IMO $10 vs $30-150
Ya I just realized this. But still do you think the wireless charger receiver tag could work? If you search on Amazon or Ebay "Galaxy S4 wireless charging receiver tag" there's the component which is stuck inside the back cover Samsung is selling. Except it can be bought for $10-20 and most likely can fit in the Active. I don't know because I have the original S4 but just trying to throw out some ideas. In theory if the tag works you can get it for $15 then use any Qi charger and you're good. While not quite as cheap it's only a few bucks more and much easier and looks way better probably. That is if it works of course.
Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
holysnikey said:
Ya I just realized this. But still do you think the wireless charger receiver tag could work? If you search on Amazon or Ebay "Galaxy S4 wireless charging receiver tag" there's the component which is stuck inside the back cover Samsung is selling. Except it can be bought for $10-20 and most likely can fit in the Active. I don't know because I have the original S4 but just trying to throw out some ideas. In theory if the tag works you can get it for $15 then use any Qi charger and you're good. While not quite as cheap it's only a few bucks more and much easier and looks way better probably. That is if it works of course.
Sent from my SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that would probably work... if i understand it correctly...
That's the image of what I'm talking about. The official back plate you buy from Samsung is just the battery door with that tag glued on the inside of the door.
holysnikey said:
That's the image of what I'm talking about. The official back plate you buy from Samsung is just the battery door with that tag glued on the inside of the door.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It probably will work but it will cost a lot more than this mod we are talking about. It will be a lot easier to install though
holysnikey said:
That's the image of what I'm talking about. The official back plate you buy from Samsung is just the battery door with that tag glued on the inside of the door.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went ahead and order this 2, so we will see
joshuadjohnson22 said:
I went ahead and order this 2, so we will see
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here. Amazon. 14.99
jdminpdx said:
Same here. Amazon. 14.99
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I paid a little more because I wanted to get it this week. The cheaper ones come from China and may take a while. I now need a replacement back for my active, somehow with the palm mod one of my clips doesnt work any longer so under my volume rocker it is propped up. Excited to have wireless charging. Hopefully this week
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk 4 Beta