[Q] Glass to Plastic spacing - Xperia Z3 Compact Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

How is the glass fit for everyone elses z3c? There is a decent size gap between the glass and plastic on the top side of my z3c, enough to where i can noticeably see dust and other material in the gap.
Am i alone? Is this a wide spread issue? It really takes away from the premium feel of the phone to see all this dust & crap between the glass and plastic :\. Will post up some pictures if they can make out anything.

It's not very noticeable for me, but there are smalls gaps all around the glass rear and front. It's not very visible on the black version, but I can see some debris stuck in there under bright light. I can also feel the gap with my nail. I have the impression that the bottom gap (backside) is a bit larger than the top gap. My previous phone, Xperia Acro S, had no gap around the glass whatsoever.

jug6ernaut said:
How is the glass fit for everyone elses z3c? There is a decent size gap between the glass and plastic on the top side of my z3c, enough to where i can noticeably see dust and other material in the gap.
Am i alone? Is this a wide spread issue? It really takes away from the premium feel of the phone to see all this dust & crap between the glass and plastic :\. Will post up some pictures if they can make out anything.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My first one - black - had this pretty bad so I sent it back. I got a different colour instead - red/orange - so any dust collecting would hopefully be less noticeable, but the gap is actually less in this replacement. There's only a small one at the top of the front glass now.
So I think the cut of their glass panels is maybe not as precise as it should be and there is a bit of variance. But most people will have gaps of varying degrees I think..

withoutwings said:
My first one - black - had this pretty bad so I sent it back. I got a different colour instead - red/orange - so any dust collecting would hopefully be less noticeable, but the gap is actually less in this replacement. There's only a small one at the top of the front glass now.
So I think the cut of their glass panels is maybe not as precise as it should be and there is a bit of variance. But most people will have gaps of varying degrees I think..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you feel on the left and right sides with you finger nail, can you feel your nail "drop" a little bit between the glass and plastic, with the replacement unit?

degraaff said:
If you feel on the left and right sides with you finger nail, can you feel your nail "drop" a little bit between the glass and plastic, with the replacement unit?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe just, but it's not enough for dust to get in any more. Only at the top now is the gap large-enough for dust.

withoutwings said:
Maybe just, but it's not enough for dust to get in any more. Only at the top now is the gap large-enough for dust.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, sounds like how it is for mine. I think they all have this to some degree. I wonder if Sony has a technical reason for the gaps?

Going to return my z3c and get another one which will hopefully have a better fitting screen. The spacing between the plastic band around the screen and the "translucent plastic" is also big enough where debris gotten stuck in it. Very disappointing.

jug6ernaut said:
Going to return my z3c and get another one which will hopefully have a better fitting screen. The spacing between the plastic band around the screen and the "translucent plastic" is also big enough where debris gotten stuck in it. Very disappointing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That spacing is always going to be there I think. Well it's not actually a spacing, it's just because the finish between the plastic band and the translucent sides is not a flush finish. This is just the design of the phone. It does catch some small debris on mine as well, but it's relatively easy to remove.

At least you can wash your phone if it gets too dusty.
Just don't do it under running tap water.

degraaff said:
That spacing is always going to be there I think. Well it's not actually a spacing, it's just because the finish between the plastic band and the translucent sides is not a flush finish. This is just the design of the phone. It does catch some small debris on mine as well, but it's relatively easy to remove.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is not the spacing i'm referring to. I talking about between the glass and the plastic. It definitely is not apart of the design of hte phone, as the right left and bottom edges are almost perfectly flush.

jug6ernaut said:
This is not the spacing i'm referring to. I talking about between the glass and the plastic. It definitely is not apart of the design of hte phone, as the right left and bottom edges are almost perfectly flush.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
"The spacing between the plastic band around the screen and the "translucent plastic" is also big enough where debris gotten stuck in it."
That is the part my reply was about.

degraaff said:
"The spacing between the plastic band around the screen and the "translucent plastic" is also big enough where debris gotten stuck in it."
That is the part my reply was about.
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Click to collapse
Ah gotcha. Yeah that spacing is disappointing but i'm "ok" with it. The glass spacing on the other hand i'm not ok with.

also mine has the gap in the left part,the right part its perfect
as you said probably the screen its not fit perfect,but for me its ok because i only see it if i look carefully.

I think it could actually be a safety measurement: if the phone falls and hits the ground with that plastic rim, the relatively small gap could prevent the impact from being directly transferred onto the glass.

degraaff said:
I think it could actually be a safety measurement: if the phone falls and hits the ground with that plastic rim, the relatively small gap could prevent the impact from being directly transferred onto the glass.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could believe that if it was the same gal on top and bottom, front and back. But it's not, it's only front top.

Related

Metal frame ?

Who knows what the silver color frame is made of.
It seems to be some kind of metal "cap" on a plastic frame.
But what metal ?
What do you think/know about it ?
Calico
its just sprayed plastic, probably a polycarbonate
jaqx said:
its just sprayed plastic, probably a polycarbonate
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then they have changed their production process: on some review, when the backplate is removed and they zoomed on the interior, you can clearly see the side edge of solid metal, or at least a .5 mm thick metal cap.
If you are sure of that, together with report of no-so-solid impression in hand, and comments on yellowish not so sharp screen (while the reviewers invariably praise the screen which seems bluish on all the TD2 pics posted), makes me think maybe there is 2 atches of TD2 out there.
One solid one, send to reviewers
and one shaky one, available for buy....
Scary....
...and completely unacceptable, if it is true and the devices are SO different, HTC is in deep trouble, class action is virtually certain...
EDIT: looking again at the review pictures, i am not so sure about the metal front anymore, it could well be polycarbonate with a nice metallic paint job....Disappointing, such paints usually do not age nicely, after a year or two you usually start to see the plastic under at points where u have friction (corners). And if they have a bad batch, it can even crack and peel off...I liked the metallic front for durability, but if it is just painting, I would prefer the MDA V design :-(. I can not wait till this one is out though, I'll report on the build quality when I get my TD2 next week...

convex rear screen or only wrong sensation?

Hi guys,
I noticed a small problem in my xperia z. As you know, the edges fiberglass chassis protrude slightly with respect to the panels of front and back glass. in my case I noticed that where there is the door to the sim, the board seems a little less prominent, as if the rear glass was a little more prominent. your are so well? is a problem caused by overheating of the processor? is something almost imperceptible so even taking pictures you could not see
anyone can say if you have the same situation? is it normal?
it does seem a little convex here now that you've mentioned it . Only a little
Yes Only a little...but now i think the Glass rests the surfaces in that point :/
Anyother?
fer2503 said:
Hi guys,
I noticed a small problem in my xperia z. As you know, the edges fiberglass chassis protrude slightly with respect to the panels of front and back glass. in my case I noticed that where there is the door to the sim, the board seems a little less prominent, as if the rear glass was a little more prominent. your are so well? is a problem caused by overheating of the processor? is something almost imperceptible so even taking pictures you could not see
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The glass is flexible, maybe it's that . Anyway, what problem does that cause to you?
Sent from my LG-P990 using xda premium
i think that now the glass touch the surface where i put the phone.
Android i suppose that the Phone Could have an internal problem. Possible?
Just had a really good look at mine and it looks perfectly flat so wouldn't say a curve in the back was normal.
Phil
It's very very Little...like 0.1 mm. Can this compromise water proof?
I see what you mean now, if I run my finger nail across the back towards the opposite side (with USB and microSD) my nail catches on the rubber edge protruding slightly, however, on the side with the SIM slot, the glass protrudes slightly further than the rubber edge, and so my nail slips off the edge of the phone.
The problem you'll see, because of this, is that when your phone lies flat on the desk, it should be resting on the rubber edge and not touching the glass, but on the SIM side, the glass touches the desk.
It might scratch the glass/screen protector but it shouldn't be a problem otherwise.
yes it's the same thing for me!!!...so i think that the only problem is the scratch of screen protector.
I restored the original form with a vise and a phone...but when i play a game and the phone became hot the problem return...so i think that is a stock
behavior of xperia z. the convex is imperceptible but the rear glass touch the surface and i can see some scratches on the sony stock film.I would not want that water came from this small curvature!

Yes, the black paint on the bezel will scratch :(

Just in case you were hoping that the body of this watch was a solid piece of black metal, it's not. If you bang the edge of bezel it will expose shiny silver metal. I know this because my desk at work is glass and I banged the bezel against it's edge when standing up. Nothing I couldn't improve with a little black magic marker. Sigh, oh well, nothing stays brand new forever.
P.S., Apparently no metal is black through and through. That being said, whatever they have used to "paint" this black is not very good and comes off easily.
mitchellvii said:
Just in case you were hoping that the body of this watch was a solid piece of black metal, it's not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is no such thing as "black metal" on this planet, yet. That material does not exist and has not been invented yet. Everything that is made out of metal is PAINTED (with different methodologies, but still, painted). No matter how you will create that paint (melted powder, dissolved material, laser) it will only be a thin layer at the surface of the metal. If you will scratch the coloured layer, the METAL under it will be revealed .
So, the hardness of a color on a metal surface it's given by the paint type and the method of applying it.
Yea.. I went to a shop and the promoter showed me a pretty banged up device.. with liver linings all over.
Does anyone know if the silver version is every gonna come out?
Huh gotta say I find this somewhat discouraging. Barely brushed the metal on the bezel of this watch against another hard surface and the paint came right off. Whatever method they used on this didn't work very well. The Zenwatch is suddenly looking more appealing.
Looked around and this seems to be the best repair item I've seen for fixing scratches on black anodized aluminum.
http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Super-Black-Touch/dp/B00BGH0Y0W/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Of course not everyone loves it but most who know what they were doing seem to. Seems to work better than the old Sharpie solution because that dries very flat and you can see it.
This is why I bought a whole case plus screen protector for it.
You might want to consider doing the same.
wtf.now? said:
This is why I bought a whole case plus screen protector for it.
You might want to consider doing the same.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but none of those kits protect the edge of the bezel which is the most likely place to get scratched.
mitchellvii said:
Yes but none of those kits protect the edge of the bezel which is the most likely place to get scratched.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nothing will.
Until they make full case covers and that for sure will look like ****.
wtf.now? said:
Nothing will.
Until they make full case covers and that for sure will look like ****.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually a little adhesive black rubber ring to go right on that bezel edge would to the trick. Sort of a bump guard. That's really the only place you need to protect.
may be that the bezel can be easily changed
I thought that for the price it has to be DLC coated. The ZenWatch should be better, or at least cheaper to replace.
Hi
Do you know if it is possible to change the bezel ?
I banged my watch bezel against a painted wooden door frame today. It took paint off the door frame. But I wiped off the bezel and it was unphased by the event. You'd have to bang the bezel pretty good against something pretty hard to mess it up.
I rubbed mine on a metal surface, at first I saw a nice streak, rubbed it and my watch was fine.
Beware the edge of glass tables. As glass is very hard it will scratch the paint off your bezel with ease. I have a glass top on my office desk. Since I wear the watch on my left wrist, I've put a piece of black rubber electrical tape above where I tend to rest my hand on my leg. Now if I bang the watch on the glass table edge it is protected.
Darnell_Chat_TN said:
I banged my watch bezel against a painted wooden door frame today. It took paint off the door frame. But I wiped off the bezel and it was unphased by the event. You'd have to bang the bezel pretty good against something pretty hard to mess it up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A dumbel during fitness
i was wondering if it could be replaced...
daigoro76 said:
may be that the bezel can be easily changed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can it be replaced? I want to throw a diamond bezel on it.
klyles said:
Can it be replaced? I want to throw a diamond bezel on it.
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Click to collapse
It can't be replaced. But there's a thread in one of these "R" forums. Where someone shows in detail, how to file down the top part and looks nice.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
Darnell_Chat_TN said:
It can't be replaced. But there's a thread in one of these "R" forums. Where someone shows in detail, how to file down the top part and looks nice.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's so hard about taking a file to it? I just took my wife's nail file and filed the entire top ring off. Some dude, filed the entire thing. too.
Darnell_Chat_TN said:
I banged my watch bezel against a painted wooden door frame today. It took paint off the door frame. But I wiped off the bezel and it was unphased by the event. You'd have to bang the bezel pretty good against something pretty hard to mess it up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too have had some pretty big brushes with objects and the bezel has faired well in every case.

How to remove Glue from Edges-Frame

Hello gyuz,
As mentioned in another thread in Accessories sub-forum, while Installing the Whitestone Dome Screen Protector (https://www.whitestonedome.com/) on my Samsung Galaxy Note 8, there was UV glue spillage all around the phone & now I have dried (UV cured) glue in the tiniest gap between the screen edges and the metal frame of the phone. Please check attached image, I have circled with red the exact location of the glue, however imagine this almost all around the phone:
Now I need a good UV glue remover to soften the dried glue and an extremely thin blade (or a similar tool) to reach in the gap and remove it. I saw some products on ebay, however I am not sure which will do the job.
First of all which Glue Remover is more suitable? Does it have to be a branded one? Or the unbranded ones will do the job as well? Is there danger that the remover will dry and stay in the gap making it worse? Will it damage the color or consistency of the metal frame? Will it damage the buttons (Power, Volum, Bixby)?
Secondly, which tool should do the job reaching such tiny gap while at the same time not scratching the screen or the metal frame? Metal Blade? Plastic Blade? Wire? Some other tool?
Please advise, as I am nearly desperate. Thank you!
Damn, I'm sorry you're having to deal with this. This is one of the biggest reasons why I don't use screen protectors on my phones. I've used a glass one on my Note 5 but didn't like it. Naked display feels the best and performs the best. Not fuss, no glue, no BS. Eeek!
roaduardo said:
Damn, I'm sorry you're having to deal with this. This is one of the biggest reasons why I don't use screen protectors on my phones. I've used a glass one on my Note 5 but didn't like it. Naked display feels the best and performs the best. Not fuss, no glue, no BS. Eeek!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree with everything. if i had the chance again I would leave it naked, however I would still feel very uncomfortable without protection.. Actual screen exposed to everything is a little risky!
OP, wish I could advise you, but all I can say is take your time and don't rush this task. Since as you aware, you don't want to use a chemical or item that will damage the frame or buttons. Don't use any metal objects.
Feel for you bro, you go ahead with good intentions to protect your device and now in a predicament.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Limeybastard said:
OP, wish I could advise you, but all I can say is take your time and don't rush this task. Since as you aware, you don't want to use a chemical or item that will damage the frame or buttons. Don't use any metal objects.
Feel for you bro, you go ahead with good intentions to protect your device and now in a predicament.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your understanding mate. Indeed tried for the best and ended up worse.
I am not rushing for now, just conctacted Whitestone themselves asking advise on how to fix it, as well as an ebay seller that sells such equipment/tools. He suggested me these:
http://ebay.eu/2g3RySr
http://ebay.eu/2kATYJV
I am not sure about the quality of the Glue Remover and how thin the tools (blades & spudger) are though. Have to make a little research.
That is why also I opened the thread to ask for opinions from people that may have done this or similar task before and to help others in the future.
Warlord1981 said:
Thanks for your understanding mate. Indeed tried for the best and ended up worse.
I am not rushing for now, just conctacted Whitestone themselves asking advise on how to fix it, as well as an ebay seller that sells such equipment/tools. He suggested me these:
http://ebay.eu/2g3RySr
http://ebay.eu/2kATYJV
I am not sure about the quality of the Glue Remover and how thin the tools (blades & spudger) are though. Have to make a little research.
That is why also I opened the thread to ask for opinions from people that may have done this or similar task before and to help others in the future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Before using any chemicals, I would try and use the finest /thinnest plastic card or tool to scrape the glue out of the edges first. Chemicals would be my last resort. Good luck my friend.:good:
roaduardo said:
Damn, I'm sorry you're having to deal with this. This is one of the biggest reasons why I don't use screen protectors on my phones. I've used a glass one on my Note 5 but didn't like it. Naked display feels the best and performs the best. Not fuss, no glue, no BS. Eeek!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have dropped my phones at least 5 times in the last year and each time it landed screen side down. I broke all 5 glass protectors but never the screen. That is why I must have a full adhesive glass protector on. It is a PITA to get perfect but for me, it's worth it.
Mike02z said:
I have dropped my phones at least 5 times in the last year and each time it landed screen side down. I broke all 5 glass protectors but never the screen. That is why I must have a full adhesive glass protector on. It is a PITA to get perfect but for me, it's worth it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand, some people need it. I haven't chipped or broken a display since I had an iPhone. Knock wood. Naked is glorious, though.
Plastic tools and alcohol are your friends.
99% Isopropyl should be able to dissolve the glue, and shouldn't leave a mark on the phone (iso evaporates completely and is not dangerous to plastics or metals). A stiff bristled plastic brush would be ideal, maybe an old toothbrush. The thinner and stiffer the bristles, the better.
The iso will dissolve the glue, but you'll need to mechanically agitate it to remove it completely. Bear in mind that traces of iso having touched the glue will streak glass , so a second/third rinse with iso may be necessary.
I'd be careful about getting iso into the switches, as long term iso can degrade rubber (switch seals etc) but as long as you clean, then dry out effectively there shouldn't be an issue (iso will evaporate at room temp in any case). Covering the switches with tape could help, but iso is so thin it will probably go under the tape, and will likely dissolve the glue on the tape too!
e: Whatever you do don't use acetone or any other stronger solvent. Depending on the plastics used acetone will eat right through them, and may affect the finish on other parts too.
Iso really is a decent cleaning solution for most electronic devices.
e ii: Oh, and if you use an old toothbrush, make sure it's very clean. Getting some toothpaste grit on the screen and rubbing it in with a brush would be tragic. Maybe even buy a brand new brush just for this job? Not too expensive for the job, imho.
Limeybastard said:
Before using any chemicals, I would try and use the finest /thinnest plastic card or tool to scrape the glue out of the edges first. Chemicals would be my last resort. Good luck my friend.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I'm trying to find such thin tool made of plastic. Cards are too thick for it. It needs to be so thin that can cut you..like razor blades maybe even thinner.
Warlord1981 said:
Yes I'm trying to find such thin tool made of plastic. Cards are too thick for it. It needs to be so thin that can cut you..like razor blades maybe even thinner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Packaging plastic is often thin and stiff... Cut it into a triangle and see if you can get "under" the glue in the gap.
roaduardo said:
I understand, some people need it. I haven't chipped or broken a display since I had an iPhone. Knock wood. Naked is glorious, though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HAHAH, SNAP! Same here, last phone I ever broke was my last iphone I owned , it was the iphone 4s. That was when I was drinking also,
Nekid, is always glorious, without a shadow of a doubt. But I am too shy and need coverage.
iPhone screens can be so brittle. I got used to changing screens for friends at work. During lunch they'd bring me their replacement display kits that they ordered from Ebay and I'd replace their broken screen for some Subway (as payment).
Warlord1981 said:
Yes I'm trying to find such thin tool made of plastic. Cards are too thick for it. It needs to be so thin that can cut you..like razor blades maybe even thinner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed, but not metal.
What i used after installing the whitedome was a sheet of paper, running the corner around gap. Cleaned it easily this way.
princeasi said:
What i used after installing the whitedome was a sheet of paper, running the corner around gap. Cleaned it easily this way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think OP needs something as thin but stiffer as his glue is cured fully now.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Limeybastard said:
I think OP needs something as thin but stiffer as his glue is cured fully now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The glue stays soft. If you run the paper around it, it will come up. After about a half a cycle thru, I would cut the edge of the paper each time so that I can continue with a firm edge. I did this after a week of installation.
princeasi said:
The glue stays soft. If you run the paper around it, it will come up. After about a half a cycle thru, I would cut the edge of the paper each time so that I can continue with a firm edge. I did this after a week of installation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Guyz you won't believe it! For the past 2 hours I was doing exactly that! Actually what worked best was a piece of paper that had the dust removal stickers on it (got it from the Olixar Sentinel Case/Screen Protector kit), which is more firm than plain A4 paper. And I was cutting it all the time to keep its sharpness. At some point it finished and I used just plain A4 paper, which wasn't the same but it kinda worked as well..
I was running it inch by inch around the whole frame, taking out glue (indeed soft) little by little! I think it's much better now, though I think I will do another round in the near future.
well after watching videos.. I could see I never needed ALL of that small tube of glue. I always use some kind of screen protector. I like to sell or give away. And you can ALWAYS tell the used phones that never had a screen protector. Always some kind of scratches.. For me selling it mint.. gets more money.
So use some kind of plastic not metal blade to get the excess glue off. It comes off so easily
Warlord1981 said:
First of all which Glue Remover is more suitable? Does it have to be a branded one? Or the unbranded ones will do the job as well? Is there danger that the remover will dry and stay in the gap making it worse? Will it damage the color or consistency of the metal frame? Will it damage the buttons (Power, Volum, Bixby)?
Secondly, which tool should do the job reaching such tiny gap while at the same time not scratching the screen or the metal frame? Metal Blade? Plastic Blade? Wire? Some other tool?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same issue with mine and all I used is the film that you remove from the Glass protector before application.. cut off small squares and I ran that in the tiny gaps but making sure you don't go too deep.. Patience and time is must..
I do have a question though.. What is the best thing to use if I wanted to remove my protector off, clean the cured adhesive and use the 2nd bottle to reapply??

My review of the Samsung Kvadrat case.

Feels really nice but doesn't have much or any drop protection.
Some pics from your amusement. Lower part of case where the usb port is , very thin flimsy silicon.
There is the same "problem" or "design specificity" with the "U" shape. I am referring to the the fact that the screen itself is only protected on the vertical bars of the U and not on the horizontal bar of the U (most likely due to the fact that the screen bends into the phone side).
Also it seems on the second picture that the bulge of the camera lens is still going out with your case?
Do you use a protection for that camera lens, like some glass cover or something?
Update on my review after a few days of usage. Pinky finger fatigue due to the sharp edge of the lower back material meeting the silicon tpu , it's raised and cuts into pinky finger.
5 out of 10. Not worth it.
Going back to my Ringke Air and Spigen thin fit , both offer slightly better protection but more importantly more comfortable to hold at around 70% less in price .
htchd2sucks said:
There is the same "problem" or "design specificity" with the "U" shape. I am referring to the the fact that the screen itself is only protected on the vertical bars of the U and not on the horizontal bar of the U (most likely due to the fact that the screen bends into the phone side).
Also it seems on the second picture that the bulge of the camera lens is still going out with your case?
Do you use a protection for that camera lens, like some glass cover or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The lens area of the cover is raised slightly and yes I have a lens cover .
Limeybastard said:
Update on my review after a few days of usage. Pinky finger fatigue due to the sharp edge of the lower back material meeting the silicon tpu , it's raised and cuts into pinky finger.
5 out of 10. Not worth it.
Going back to my Ringke Air and Spigen thin fit , both offer slightly better protection but more importantly more comfortable to hold at around 70% less in price .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take a look at the Bolt case. Been using it for my 10+ for over a year. My favorite case ever.
Doesn't add much bulk, easy to hold and in spite of half dozen plus drops on concrete shows no damage*. 2 layer composite or 3 layer if you use the clip on back; it's very well protected in that configuration.
*replace one out of concern of corner fatigue from repeated same corner hits. At $20 a pop better safe than sorry...
blackhawk said:
Take a look at the Bolt case. Been using it for my 10+ for over a year. My favorite case ever.
Doesn't add much bulk, easy to hold and in spite of half dozen plus drops on concrete shows no damage*. 2 layer composite or 3 layer if you use the clip on back; it's very well protected in that configuration.
*replace one out of concern of corner fatigue from repeated same corner hits. At $20 a pop better safe than sorry...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's too lumpy, remember - death grip comment?
Limeybastard said:
It's too lumpy, remember - death grip comment?
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Click to collapse
Lol, yeah. I don't notice that in actual use. It doesn't slip out of your hand easily.
I'm holding it by it's flip out stand as I pecked this out. A lot of ways to easily hold it.
Talking of death grips I have the Kyber 2 mountain boots which are great but they're a bear to lace up tight. Finally realized after straining a second first finger joint that the lace up was the cause. Damn finger strain hurts.
So I can see you crippling yourself with the wrong case
blackhawk said:
Lol, yeah. I don't notice that in actual use. It doesn't slip out of your hand easily.
I'm holding it by it's flip out stand as I pecked this out. A lot of ways to easily hold it.
Talking of death grips I have the Kyber 2 mountain boots which are great but they're a bear to lace up tight. Finally realized after straining a second first finger joint that the lace up was the cause. Damn finger strain hurts.
So I can see you crippling yourself with the wrong case
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might treat myself to one for educational purposes since I'm giving up smoking lol.
Don't worry, I cripple myself just cutting hedges lately .
Limeybastard said:
I might treat myself to one for educational purposes since I'm giving up smoking lol.
Don't worry, I cripple myself just cutting hedges lately .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I like cigars.
Good as long as you remember never to inhale... sometimes I forget, briefly
blackhawk said:
I like cigars.
Good as long as you remember never to inhale... sometimes I forget, briefly
Click to expand...
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I'd only be kidding myself with a cigar or a pipe. I'd stopped for 8 years until last year.
Reference the Zizo bolt case, are the insides soft or hard plastic?
Limeybastard said:
I'd only be kidding myself with a cigar or a pipe. I'd stopped for 8 years until last year.
Reference the Zizo bolt case, are the insides soft or hard plastic?
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Click to collapse
High density urethane. The last corner can be tough to put in. Fair warning: use care in this stage with a screen protector. Glass ones may not have clearance, not sure*. I use a piece of stretched teflon tape to protect the buttons and R/L side rails from dirt and make insertion easier.
Warming it in the sun etc may help... will try this next time.
Obviously you then the snap on polycarbonate back piece on last. This piece is stiff but almost impossible to break. Put the button side on first.
Button side is last when disassembling.
With the fold out stand: either leave it snapped in or use fully extended. The retaining pins can slip out if left loose in pocket. They can be put back in if not lost as I discovered one day. Otherwise it's surprisingly sturdy; I use it constantly.
*since it's urethane you can easily machine, cut, file, sand it if you need to but I recommend not to unless absolutely needed as that could reduce the level of protection.
Lol, it will be ok
blackhawk said:
High density urethane. The last corner can be tough to put in. Fair warning: use care in this stage with a screen protector. Glass ones may not have clearance, not sure*. I use a piece of stretched teflon tape to protect the buttons and R/L side rails from dirt and make insertion easier.
Warming it in the sun etc may help... will try this next time.
Obviously you then the snap on polycarbonate back piece on last. This piece is stiff but almost impossible to break. Put the button side on first.
Button side is last when disassembling.
With the fold out stand: either leave it snapped in or use fully extended. The retaining pins can slip out if left loose in pocket. They can be put back in if not lost as I discovered one day. Otherwise it's surprisingly sturdy; I use it constantly.
*since it's urethane you can easily machine, cut, file, sand it if you need to but I recommend not to unless absolutely needed as that could reduce the level of protection.
Lol, it will be ok
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What worries me, and it has done so since my using a hard inner plastic case in the past is damage to the frame of the device. Yes, dirt will cause this , but I regularly remove devices and dust out the frame and case. But with hard gizzarded cases I always seem to get micro marring or scratches on frames. Hence I've avoided them like a plague during the last 5 years.
Limeybastard said:
What worries me, and it has done so since my using a hard inner plastic case in the past is damage to the frame of the device. Yes, dirt will cause this , but I regularly remove devices and dust out the frame and case. But with hard gizzarded cases I always seem to get micro marring or scratches on frames. Hence I've avoided them like a plague during the last 5 years.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It happens with soft silicon inner liners too
This really irritates me... to put it politely.
Therefor the teflon tape. It's a little tedious but it's cheap so you can practice.
No damage yet to my 10+ doing it this way.
I start just after the holes on the top, around the corner to as far as the first hole on the bottom.
I stretch it somewhat and try to keep it right below the screen. Same on other side but take the spen out them simply punch through the tape.
The stretch at the corners hold it in place.
It can get pushed out when putting on the case but that's just cosmetic. It can be pushed down but some while may show.
Seals it well from that damn grit.
If you have any better ideas, please share.
blackhawk said:
It happens with soft silicon inner liners too
This really irritates me... to put it politely.
Therefor the teflon tape. It's a little tedious but it's cheap so you can practice.
No damage yet to my 10+ doing it this way.
I start just after the holes on the top, around the corner to as far as the first hole on the bottom.
I stretch it somewhat and try to keep it right below the screen. Same on other side but take the spen out them simply punch through the tape.
The stretch at the corners hold it in place.
It can get pushed out when putting on the case but that's just cosmetic. It can be pushed down but some while may show.
Seals it well from that damn grit.
If you have any better ideas, please share.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep soft silicon as its name implies contains silicon , one can clearly see the micro marring on high polished silver frames when using these.
Limeybastard said:
Yep soft silicon as its name implies contains silicon , one can clearly see the micro marring on high polished silver frames when using these.
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Click to collapse
It's a polymer based on silicon, it is no more abrasive than soft plastics.
Silicone - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
It's actually the external grit that causes the marring. If you seal the surfaces completely from foriegn particles they will stay pristine.
blackhawk said:
It's a polymer based on silicon, it is no more abrasive than soft plastics.
Silicone - Wikipedia
en.m.wikipedia.org
It's actually the external grit that causes the marring. If you seal the surfaces completely from foriegn particles they will stay pristine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've seen silicon cases marring stainless steel frames, and these were cleaned before , however, the device and the case were placed in a grip like a car phone holder . Using tpu or other plastics didn't cause marring. I've ran tests as nerdy as it sounds

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