I've spent hours reading the various threads since getting my HU last Novemeber. Absolutely love it, especially with the Malaysk roms on, does everything I could want it to, except make a bloody phone call. If the other end can hear me it's very faint at best.
Mine was supplied by Pumpkin, they have tried to help with a microphone app and various settings, none made the slightest difference.
There were a few posts about adding an external mic by finding the BT card after dissasembly and wiring to the mic+ and Sgnd legs on the card. Last night I eventually bit the bullet and took mine completely to piecese. Unfortunately I couldn't find a BT card, maybe it's built in, or on chip or...... But I gave up looking for it. What I did find on the front panel was the original pathetic little mic, way back from the tiny hole. You can't drill it bigger as it knocks the mic out of place.
My fix, made simpler now I know what I'm doing (it took me a lot longer and many more steps.
Take off main case
Pull tape off DVD drive to extend ribbon cable
Flip up black tab at the back of the ribbon cable connection on the screen and slide out ribbon and put screen aside
Remove two small screws from the side of the faceplate and using a flat blade screwdriver release the faceplate
Flip up tabs on both ribbon connectors and remove ribbons, I found it easier doing the short one first
unscrew all circuit boards screws in the faceplate circuit (7) and remove faceplate
Drill a hole in the rear of the unit above the ISO connector to feed a cable through
Carefully desolder the horrible little mic from the right hand side of the circuit (labelled mic1) and clean the holes
Take a mini jack extension lead and cut off the male end - either a mono one or if stereo you want the wires for the top part and the middle part of the connector stripped and feed through the hole, I also put a very small tie wrap inside with the tag outside so I could hold the wire tight and not strain the solder - tightened after assembly
The positive (top part) goes on the inside connection. I soldered this to the top of the board
The ground goes to the other terminal - these are so close together that I soldered this on the underside to ensure no contact
Reassemble in reverse of above (making sure all faceplate buttons are in place (yes I forgot the eject and screen buttons)
Then connect any unpowered condenser Mic and all of a sudden fantastic vocie clarity, quite a phenomenal difference.
I used this mic from Amazon, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F84YMZQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Happy for this to get merged into another thread, but I couldn't find one specifically about the mic problem with the single din unit.
Was there no factory fitted connection for an external mic? Mine does have one. Then it would be simple to just disconnect the internal mic right?
ACSlater said:
Was there no factory fitted connection for an external mic? Mine does have one. Then it would be simple to just disconnect the internal mic right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, no external mic connection on the single din units. Confirmed by Pumpkin. Bit of a silly oversight
Related
I have no sound whats so ever?
I think i know the answer to my problem - i'm just not sure how to fix it.
Basically part of my headset is stuck in the headset port. It's the little tiny tip section of the jack end. I think the phone thinks there is a headset plugged in and thats why the speaker is not working - also when taking calls i cant hear the other person and they cant hear me.
Problem is, what do i do about it? It's an awful small jack fitting in the first place - never mind trying to get the smallest part out of that hole?
Any idea's? I want to avoid returning the phone to O2 because when they last had it (the touch screen stopped working) it took 4 weeks before i got it back and I need the phone for GPS everyday!
OOooooo errrr.
Thats got to be the worst of luck.
I can only siggest two possible things to do and they're nasty, very nasty!
1. Get a cocktail stick and dip the smallest possible amount of SuperGlue on the end(and I mean the smallest dribble.) Infact put a drop on a ceramic tile and dip the cocktail stick into it for a really small amount. Then insert and hold for a few minutes. You may have enough bond to ease out the remains.
2. If you dont use the jack you could shove a nail in there and gently wiggle if for quite a while to break the solder points carefuly and then pull the jack off, thus disconnecting the headset.
Sounds rough and nasty but thats what I'd do and then if it failed I'd put the jack on the remaining headset and send it back to O2 for replacement.
I've been thinking about this for some time as I have some nice headphones (HeadDirect RE0) that I use with my Defy. But I miss having a microphone (taking/making calls without too much hassle). So I thought of cutting off the headphones of a Nokia stereo headset and putting a 3.5 plug so that I can have an extension cord with microphone.
I searched around the net but didn't find a good pinout so I opened the Nokias. They only have a 470ohm resistor (if I remember well). I tried to rewire those (to get a button push) with no success.
So I opened the original Motorola headset (quite easy and with no damage) to find quite a circuit inside. I'm putting the a picture of the circuit here, maybe someone with more experience can help me. The circuit is quite small and as I have minimum experience with circuits...
PS: I was thinking of getting a third party headset, but at about 10 euros... kinda expensive to break.
Heh, this is how i modded my headphones - got Creative EP-630 headphones, but no microphone, and sucking (compared to senn) motorola ones.... ...and voila!
Take pilot/microphone apart --> solder out old connections --> cut new headphones cord somewhere like 20 cm from headphone -->solder them in to original connection points.
EDIT:
Ohhh... and the worst part was to carefully remove original rubber gasket around original cables which were to be removed, and pulling/glueing new cabling through it. But the effect is awesome - there is almost no visual hint that someone modded them
..and sound quality....
I was thinking that I could get away with it without taking apart the original headset, but it looks like I'm slowly getting there...
Thanks for your reply!
I have a sony headset with mic, but they have the old sony ericsson socket. Could it be possible to solder a 3.5 jack onto them. Are the even selling 3.5 jacks with 4 rings?
I don't know if you could find a 4-rings 3.5 jack? Check the closest electronic parts shop. Or, if you have a Nokia headset lying around like I had...
From what I've found out the mic and headphones work OK just connected to the respective rings*, but what I couldn't make work is the button. As you can see in the attached picture, there are a few SMD capacitors.
*if I remember well, from tip: Left, Right, Mic, Ground (Corrected: Left, Right, Ground, Mic!!!)
Cheers!
NO.
There is right:
Left, Right, Ground, Mic
This is my modification:
My 3.5 mm audio output has been having increasing problems and it won't recognize most jacks anymore, including my earphones. Do you know of any trick to make it work, or would I need to replace the part completely to have it working again?
I think it depends on the kind of issue you see.
Example:
My audio jack was not working when I received my used Droid 4 from the USA.
I realized that my headphones are not deep enough in the phone. When I push them in a bit more they worked properly, but hey flip out as soon I touch the cable or I move.
1. Look if the Headphone jack is dirty and clean it up: h**ps://motorola-global-portal.custhelp.com/app/answers/prod_answer_detail/a_id/85247/p/30,6720,8096/c/8149,8172
2. If its cleaned and still not working its probably a hardware issue. ( Now you need to find whats broken / not working )
- A weak point is that the feeds of headphone jack are only pushed against the mainboard. I can imagine that carrying the phone in the pocket will bend that feeds. Meaning if you try to use the headphone jack outside of the pocket it will not work properly. You can try to push from the outside of the headphone jack to see if they work then properly. If yes... you need to disassembly the phone... and bend the feeds of the headphone jack back so that they get contact with the mb again.
- In my case after cleaning the headphone jack, the plug still didn't fit into the jack properly. I didn't want to open the Phone since ifixit says its a mess. So I tried to fix it without replacing it. I pushed a pice of toothpick into it to widen the deepest part of the jack. That fixed my Headphone jack. But the risk is there that you completely mess up the jack and you have to replace it completely.
Try at your own risk!
It is VERY easy for lint, dust, and grime to get stuck in the audio input socket. It's happened to my phone several times, since the audio jack isn't covered by any sort of cap. If you turn the phone off, shine a light into the socket, and (gently) dig around with a safety pin, you should be able to get most of the gunk out. It'd surprise you, how much lint can get stuck in there!
If you can find something to cover the audio input socket with, even better.
It was just dirty after all - I had like 3 mm worth of lint inside
I was worried it's some HW issue because different jacks responded differently... Glad it's not I use BT HF most of the time (with 3,5 jack output for headphones), but sometimes I like to plug the phone into my speakers, plus BT isn't that comfy for watching video...
Pipe cleaner wasn't very helpful, but a pin did the trick
Thanks for your help, guys!
Hey everyone. I am about to start installing a Nexus 7 in my 2003 Ford Mustang.
Goals:
Easy removal of unit.
-Temperature is near zero at some points in winter and over 100 in summer.
-Use of hard case to hold unit in place, possibly mounted by a small variation in the shape of my stock stereo surround and the use of strong magnets. If that does not work, permanently mounting hard case to stereo bezel
-Use of double din space behind the mounted nexus for the EQ and my boost controller to go.
-Fabrication of pogo pin system for easy connection/disconnection, allowing for charging and usb hub support while nexus is in its "cradle". Adapter for micro usb > pogo, to help reduce wear on the micro usb port of the nexus.
Stock look
-if I don't like the look then I will try and fabricate something to surround the nexus while it is mounted.
-modifying the stereo bezel is not an issue, they are cheap to replace
- Clean wiring and functional placement of components
Better than stock function and sound
-USB sound card
-manual volume control (making a volume knob that controls EQ that is accessible)
- Radio (I don't use it but its a selling feature if I have to sell the car)
-easy access to peripherals in case something needs to be adjusted or replaced
-no alternator whine or sub standard sound just because it is a tablet, in fact it must be better than what I have now
-GPS!!!
-WARDRIVING!! (I do not have a smart phone, so internet will come from WIFI for now)
Less than $500 (cost of a high end stereo with far less capability, also less than a decent carputer setup)
Future plans
- possible megasquirt engine management that is tied into the device so that I do not have to lug my laptop around when I tune my car (it sucks and is dangerous to try and use windows while driving fast), plug into 4 different USB devices, and deal with crappy UI's
- at the very least, integration of all of the data my tuning components are giving without using a laptop. OBD II may or may not solve this.
Components I have purchased so far:
-Used - Like new Nexus 7 (2012) - $129.99
Amazon
-Behringer UCA202 USB Audio Interface - $29.99
-DROK 12A/100W 4.5-30V to 0.8-30V DC Buck Volt Converter Step Down 12V Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator - $15.89
-Sound Storm Laboratories S4EQ 4-Band Graphic Equalizer with Subwoofer Crossover, VOLUME CONTROL - $30.98
-Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (not sure if I need it yet) - $10.04
- ( 3 ) Boss Audio Systems Car Ground Loop Isolator (one for each output) - $23.64
-AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable (9.8 Feet/3.0 Meters) - $5.99
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter for all Micro USB - $5.50
-Fosmon Crystal Hard Case for Google Nexus 7 - $2.97
-(2) Harwin 4P Spring Probe Connector (pogo pin connector) - $6.48
-(2) Molex Male Micro USB B (specs say male version but I bet I get female) - $1.74
- (2) Hirose Male USB connector with cradle (in case above doesn't work) - $3.54
Still need:
USB Radio Receiver
Knob for volume control relocation
MISC (bondo or epoxy, wire, etc)
Apps, cracks, mods to make it all work
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While there are a few well documented car installs, I think there is always room for another. The main thing that I hope to bring to the table is (hopefully) creating a reproducible way to make a quick disconnect connector from the pogo. I checked on patents, and there is one already, so even if I felt like it was worth it, I probably couldn't mass produce them. So now the technique will be in the public domain (hopefully). The adapter should work for any micro usb device. It could be adapted for different connectors, possibly even using the Nexus 10 connector to add audio to the dock. You could also use 2 of the 4 pogo connectors, 1 for audio and 1 for usb. Anyway.
I am waiting for stuff to arrive. I will update once it does.
1/21/14
Deliveries!
Bezel
Bezel pics. Just got the hard case in today. Nexus 7 tomorrow. School sucks this semester so this may go slow
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Newest
eason86 said:
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was looking at getting a couple of bluetooth HD webcams for front and rear like you are talking about. You could run a USB cable to both, or if you had a USB video card, a composite cable, but it seems easier to wire power at each location and use bluetooth. I would use the cameras for recording street racing, or if I ever take it to the track.
Just got the plastic for the case that will be behind the stereo. I bought Lexan at Lowes, and then realized that radioshack has the project boxes that they sell. The largest looks close to double din in width and height. It could be chopped up and then reformed using the glue that I bought for the lexan.
I also picked up the circuit boards from radioshack. a block of 4 of the pre-printed circuits is the same width as a usb end, which is what I was shooting for. The only issue is reducing wear on the contacts. I have a couple of ideas, including getting a cheap flash card and using that to make the circuit. 4 contacts on a flash card are the same width as a usb end as well (the plastic). The contacts for the flash card are made for wear, so it may be a better option.
Lexan was $3.98 a sheet I think, I bought 2. It is enough to make a box from. Plastic glue was ~$5.98 a tube x2. so ~$12.
Circuit was like $3.00, some solder and screws for mounting, total was ~$8. I am going to make the box tonight and glue it up.
NEXUS CAME TODAY! Only thing left is the USB/POGO parts.
Update
Been working on the bezel and the connectors the past few days in between homework. I finished the connector and has been epoxied into the bezel. Starting to come together. I took a lot of time working on the alignment of the connector as it slips into the bezel. The nexus does not move up and down really, but I still tried to make the connector hole as tight as possible so that I do not end up shorting the pins on the connector. I also epoxied the body and contacts of the usb adapter, which should also help the pins find their contact. I will take a pic of it once I get it all cleaned up.
So if anyone plans to do this, I went through 4 cables before I finally got it right. I would get close to the end, and a wire or pin would break from stress on the usb connector, or I accidentally cut into the cables and they are very small and hard to reconnect. What ended up working best was to get an $8 flat cable connector from Fred Meyer. It was in a little bin next to the register, but the flat cable and the cheap rubber/plastic that is used to form the connector made it very easy to get into it, short pin 4 and 5, and then put everything back together without ruining anything. The better quality connectors have a rubber that is hard to cut into, and as you are dissecting the connector, you run the risk of nicking the hidden wires. If you could find a cheap OTG cable, it would make everything much easier. Because I opened the connector, when I put it back together and fused the two rubber pieces with my soldering iron, the metal connector moved up and down inside of the rubber casing. Eventually it would have failed.
A few more hints: Don't use a soldering iron over 15W. I roasted everything when I accidentally set my iron to 30W. 15w is still hot, but not too much. 2nd: get one of the soldering stations with the clips and magnifying glasses from radioshack. OMG I don't know how I lived without this thing. SOOOOO much easier to solder with things held in place.
Btw, the first cable I cut into was an OTG cable, and there continuity with resistance between the black and green wire? 25 ohms. I was measuring the wires to see how my solder job was. I ended up digging into the cable, and doing so accidentally cut the black wire, so I had to scrap it.
Update
Painted the bezel in the car's factor color ($8 at O'Reilly for paint plus $20 for prep). Looks good. I realized that the magnets scrape the paint of the bezel as they attach, so I bought some black vinyl ($1.11 at walmart). Still deciding which side to attach it to.
I also got a soft on relay for powering the USB hub (maybe amp too), time is adjustable for power on. I assume the electronics won't like being cycled through ignition ($30). Still deciding if I want all of the stereo components to come on at the same time or just the amp and/or nexus.
I finished and mounted all of the components into the box, including the boost controller. Everything fit perfectly without modification. I removed my old stereo today to ship back to amazon and get a refund. If I finish my homework tonight at a reasonable time, I might have enought time to work on the wiring harness and have it in tomorrow to test without the soft on relay. Now that there is no stereo in the I bet I will get motivated to finish.
I will post pictures once it is installed and maybe of the wiring of the components.
can you please make a video.
How are you planning on turning the tablet on automatically?
I'm installing one in my car two, but I don't want to have to turn it on manually, and I plan on charging it 24/7. So I can't check when the power is connected (ie car started) because it will always have a power input.
I don't want to thread jack, but here's my removable nexus 7 install in my acura TSX. Works like a champ, turns on/off with the car, steering controls are all working...
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/94338-i-didnt-know-what-do-my-nexus-7-a.html
If you've owned your Nexus for a while, you'll start to notice that your headphone jack may become spotty, finicky, or no longer work. This is caused by the lack of a proper connector on the motherboard for the headphone jack module. The pins of the headphone jack end up rubbing up against the PCB pads and wearing it away, resulting in a faulty connection. (See attachments for reference).
Symptoms of a worn connection:
- No sound through headphones
- Wiggling the headphone connector causes something to happen
- Google assistant or search activating randomly
- Songs randomly skipping or stopping when using aux or headphones
You can make a semi-permanent repair by tinning the connection pads with solder, which both improves the connection and repairs any wear. This may need to be repeated in the future as solder is a soft material. (not any time soon though, maybe a few months).
Tools:
- Soldering Iron
- Solder with rosin core (or solder + flux)
- About an hour
Step 1 - Follow any tear down guide to remove the main motherboard from the phone.
I prefer the iFixit guide which can be found here:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+5+Teardown/19016
You don't need to remove the battery, just the back cover, the protective shield, and unplug a few connectors.
Step 2 - Tin the connectors.
See attachments for the headphone connector, and reference images. (The images are taken with the motherboard flipped over)
If you've never touched a soldering iron before, make sure it's hot, and make sure to add a little flux to your target area. Flux removes oxidation, and makes the solder flow much much easier than without. Avoid hitting anything other than the soldering pads.
You don't need a lot, in fact, if you add too much, try to use the soldering iron tip to pull away the extra solder from the pads. I've attached a photo of a finished repair.
Step 3 - Reassembly.
Just put it back together the way you took it apart.