Connector in battery compartment - LG Watch Sport

Has anyone got any info on the connector under the battery cover?
the connector's style is the same as used internally for various devices, so it could simply be an unused internal "expansion" port, to have a device connected such as a camera or other device that was only intended for higher SKUs, but..
I'm hoping it would be a charging/usb connector, there are enough pins for that certainly.. adb development is rather painful over the device's wifi connection. Not that it has to be so bad, I have other devices that easily do >2.0MB/s over wifi, but with simultaneous inductive charging there is a lot of heat to contend with in a small form factor, probably CPU is scaled back quite some without interactivity on touchscreen.
In case anyone is wondering what connector i'm talking about, I've attached a photo..

There is a teardown with part list: http://www.ewisetech.com/Device/SmartWearable/LG-LG-Watch-Sport(LG-W288)_id2564/Part-Collection
Unfortunately, they do not mention the connector specifically. Maybe someone with more electronics knowledge can deduce what port does based on all mainboard pictures in that teardown.

Related

pull or wiggle

This may not sound like a serious question , but it is,
in terms of the micro usb power connector into the phone, to remove it is it best to just pull it straight out with consequent greater pull forces on the phones internal connection, or wiggle it from side or side a bit to ease it out, reducing the pull but at the cost of introducing lateral forces.
Anyone thought about this or come to any conclusions with reference to how the internal mount is configured and connects to the rest of the chassis.
Never wiggle any connectors as it is bad for any socket and in future may happen that it will not hold the connector "tight enough" or damage it as well as the socket
Thanks for that advice.

Recharging Options

How are you guys recharging your HD2's? I've been relying on the USB connector at the bottom of the phone, but my concern is that after 'x' number of connects/disconnects that the socket will wear out as it started doing with my Kaiser.
Do you guys know of any pin-based adapter or battery hatch modification with external contacts that would enable us to lay the phone on a stand or platform without having to use the internal USB port on the phone which will eventually wear out? The 'powermat' would be great, but it's not available for the HD2. Does the new HTC car mount recharge the phone too, or is it just a bracket?
I'm thinking of something along the lines of how bluetooth headsets recharge, where the pins are external. It just worries me that the micro USB connector will eventually fail, which on a $700+ phone is not an attractive option.
Your thoughts?
The connector will not fail. At least unless you force/damage it yourself. It has been adopted as a connection/charge connector on ALL new phones now, of any brand, so you can bet they tested it thoroughly before.
If it fails.. well that's what the warranty's there for.
To answer the original question, I charge using USB, and also an external charger for my spares.
kilrah said:
The connector will not fail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand your point, but to my way of thinking it's still a physical connector made of metal and plastic. It will fail eventually, trust me. These connectors are tested to withstand a reasonable number of connect/disconnect cycles for the average user. But cell phones tend to get used more, and this phone among other cell phones because of the cpu and screen will need to be recharged even more so.
Also, I'm not talking about the point of failure, but the limit of usability. The connector on my Kaiser got to the point where the cable wouldn't stay lodged in the housing and would drop out of its own weight. Although it still worked, it made for awkward handling while in the car trying to use a coiled charging cable that would drop out on its own.
So what I was looking for was a replacement battery hatch which would connect with the internal contacts, and a corresponding mount/dock of some sort so that it would minimize the physical stress of multiple connections and disconnections.
BillTheCat said:
How are you guys recharging your HD2's? I've been relying on the USB connector at the bottom of the phone, but my concern is that after 'x' number of connects/disconnects that the socket will wear out as it started doing with my Kaiser.
Do you guys know of any pin-based adapter or battery hatch modification with external contacts that would enable us to lay the phone on a stand or platform without having to use the internal USB port on the phone which will eventually wear out? The 'powermat' would be great, but it's not available for the HD2. Does the new HTC car mount recharge the phone too, or is it just a bracket?
I'm thinking of something along the lines of how bluetooth headsets recharge, where the pins are external. It just worries me that the micro USB connector will eventually fail, which on a $700+ phone is not an attractive option.
Your thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got the car mount today. It Does recharge the phone - there's a mini usb plug built into the bracket, and a lead plugs into the base of the bracket, and then into your 12v socket. A nice touch, the lead is actually long enough to be able to route it nicely.
ebeam said:
I just got the car mount today. It Does recharge the phone - there's a mini usb plug built into the bracket, and a lead plugs into the base of the bracket, and then into your 12v socket. A nice touch, the lead is actually long enough to be able to route it nicely.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, but what I was really after is a solution that does NOT involve the USB port on the phone.
I've seen battery chargers on Ebay. That's probably the only sensible solution if you're really that worried about the USB connector...
I think I remember reading something about some sort of wireless recharging pad that you can put phones and mp3 players on that would recharge them without any cables but I've got no idea if it would work on the HD2 or if they are even on sale yet.
There was old HTC CU S400 car Update Kit. It has direct conection to the battery throug back cover http://www.slashgear.com/htc-hd2-cu-s400-car-kit-gets-priced-detailed-coming-december-1360143/#entrycontent. New mount have MicroUSB connection http://www.clove.co.uk/viewProduct.aspx?product=53E28901-63DD-4E93-99F6-BF3D0B88BD04
lachutm said:
There was old HTC CU S400 car Update Kit. It has direct conection to the battery throug back cover http://www.slashgear.com/htc-hd2-cu-s400-car-kit-gets-priced-detailed-coming-december-1360143/#entrycontent. New mount have MicroUSB connection http://www.clove.co.uk/viewProduct.aspx?product=53E28901-63DD-4E93-99F6-BF3D0B88BD04
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, the former is along the lines of what I had in mind. Just surprised that no aftermarket solutions have been developed for the phone to make it easier to charge without wearing out that micro-usb connector.
As the mini USB port is a standard size, (not just used by HTC) if you should ever 'break it', most phone repair shops will be able to replace it quite easily.
A lot less hassle than opening up your phone to plug things in the back.

replacement w.fl (aka ipex mhf3) connector?

OK, so please help me I'm going mad here!
I took my nexus one apart to replace the microusb port, which was totally crapped out. After putting the device back together i get very low WIFI signal although everything else is working. I took the phone apart and one of the mini pigtail connectors was unplugged and possibly a bit squished. I put it back on and it seemed fine. When i turned the device on the result was the same... Wifi works, but only short range.
This leads me to think the Coax w.fl connector is broken or possibly i damaged the WIFI antenna foil (it is somewhat deformed).
The w.fl connector is like the connector that connects the wifi aerial in your laptop, only smaller, if that helps.
I'd love it if someone could point me to a cheap antenna assembly or just the coax cable.
Even better if someone know of a device where this is sold as a complete part (antenna and coax) i could mount it behind the battery cover and possibly increase my signal!
This lack of wifi is such a pain as i live in a low signal area and rely on wifi for data/sync.
Thanks!
You can buy a 100cm coax cable terminated with W.FL connectors from RadioSpares in the UK stock number 619-6387

Teclast X98 plus II (c2e3) disassembly

I just got this tablet but I am having hard time finding any info about it.
It has 2GB ram and came only with Android (no dual os).
Any idea where can I learn more about it?(upgrade Bios, install dual OS, etc)
Specs
CPU: x5 Z8300
RAM: 2GB RAM
Storage: 32GB eMMC
model code: c2e3
Hardware name: cht_cr_mrd
build: V1.04_20160624
Android: 5.1.1 ( kernel 3.14.37)
wifi+bt chip: Realtek RTL8723bs (driver: 8723BS.ko)
Touch controller: Silead GSL3692
Audio Dac: ES8316
Case Images:
Software CPU-X:
Software CPU-Z:
Hardware Internals:
Bios:
To enter in Bios:
- connect a usb keyboard on the OTG usb port
- shutdown the tablet
- power up tablet - keep the power button 2 seconds pressed and release it.
- press repeatedly the ESC key until it enters BIOS.
I also opened up my tablet, C2D4, because of very poor internet connectivity, I noticed how antenna is soldered and I am guessing that there is a short in my case, so I will solder two separate cables instead of one and see how it goes...
Do you have any troubles with WIFI signal?
hello I bought this tablet I have a big problem. When I put any sdcard, I have always as volum 0.90 go. The sd with windos is no problem. Do you know how I can fix this problem please? Thanks for advance
veaceslav said:
I also opened up my tablet, C2D4, because of very poor internet connectivity, I noticed how antenna is soldered and I am guessing that there is a short in my case, so I will solder two separate cables instead of one and see how it goes...
Do you have any troubles with WIFI signal?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the WiFi is a joke, although the signal looks good 3/4bars or 4/4bars the latency is huge > 800ms, packet loss and the bw is under 100kbps if I am not in the same room with the wifi-router. In the same room I get even 70mbps.
Regarding your mod, check first with a multimeter if there is indeed a short. I would not recommend using two separate wires to connect the PCB antenna you must use a coax cable for this since unshielded wire acts as a antenna themselve.
You could try soldering a 31.25mm(starting from the solder joint) non-shielded wire on the pad marked with + sign. In my case I saw around 10% improvement with this mod.
lupu said:
Yes the WiFi is a joke, although the signal looks good 3/4bars or 4/4bars the latency is huge > 800ms, packet loss and the bw is under 100kbps if I am not in the same room with the wifi-router. In the same room I get even 70mbps.
Regarding your mod, check first with a multimeter if there is indeed a short. I would not recommend using two separate wires to connect the PCB antenna you must use a coax cable for this since unshielded wire acts as a antenna themselve.
You could try soldering a 31.25mm(starting from the solder joint) non-shielded wire on the pad marked with + sign. In my case I saw around 10% improvement with this mod.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try to make a improvised coaxial with Ethernet cable and aluminium foil wrap... I do not have a multimeter..
So, after long tries of improving the Wi-Fi I am giving up. The speed of 22Mbps I achieved with the cover of, I can't make it when the cover is on. The damn plate is too thick and is killing all signal. I even soldered a wire to the plate. It didn't improve or worsen the signal. I put a wire with a razor blade wrapped in the plastic area and got a small improved.
I get at least some stable 5 Mbps when I used to get almost nothing. If I crack open a little bit the case, suddenly the speed is twice as fast.
Props to the Teclast guys, at least there was no short in antenna soldering. I wish I had a full plastic cover
Update: since I noticed that WiFi is better with the case open, I decided to get the antenna out. Not all of it, just the tip.
The antenna is glued with strong adhesive, but then it fits strong on the screen.
For me, I got a good improvement in speeds when the router is away.
Since Realtek chip is kinda bad, don't expect miracles. My phone with ac chip is still faster, even in N band.

connector replacement

Hi,
a few days ago, my good old Nook HD+ stopped charging and my PC won't detect it as well. When connected to powerbank/PC, only green light shows on besides charging connector.
It's most likely caused by corrosion in connector. I've bought two replacement cables, both of them don't work.
I've dissasembled my Nook and measured resistance between USB wires and matching pins on connector on motherboard. Power pins seem to be fine, but one of data lines had about 0.5 higher resistance than the other. I've tried cleaning the connector carefully with IPA and toothpick, but that didn't help.
Question is, what are the options? Is it possible to buy replacement connector?
If not, has someone tried replacing connector with microusb, that is by cutting and rerouting traces on motherboard so that it matches micro USB connector? I don't really care about HDMI/audio functionality, all I need is charging and file transfer.
I've placed motherboard into cheap ultrasonic cleaner with IPA for a few minutes and that fixed the issue. Connector works as before.
Only side effect of repair is, that my nook stopped booting CM 10 from SD card. But that another unrelated issue.

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