lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
gunemalli said:
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am looking for the LCD and digitizer assembly. but i am trying to find OEM part
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
housing is not an issue
Lttlwing16 said:
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
i bought one
squee666 said:
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i did buy one from ebay today, after been an annoying person with lots of questions hahaha. i refused to buy from anyone below 99% profile credential on ebay. here are the questions i asked lol
Is the LCD screen manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store? if not, is the same Quality, TRUE IPS LCD with Gorilla Glass 2 digitizer?
Is this LCD part brand new or refurbished from reclaimed old parts?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel new or refurbished, or reclaimed from old parts?
and if I bought a brand new in box sealed G2 from LG, the part I’m asking about would be 100% identical with no differences in quality or condition?
does it work on D800 model, if not do you have one that works with D800 that is a genuine OEM?
is it OEM (Original equipment manufacturer), does it have part number on the flex cable, and LG display co,ltd label ?
only one seller, answered all of them concisely, without political correctness or avoidance. lots of them stopped talking to me, and some only answered vaguely. i had one hilarious response, who said the the screen is OEM but not genuine, i insisted for him to elaborate, he said OEM but not original. all of us know that OEM stands for Original equipment manufacturer. i sent him a response, that it does not make sense to be OEM but not original. he replied back OEM for them is, Optical equipment manufacturer lol, heck i do not even know what does that mean lol. i took a screenshot of the definition and sent it to him, he never replied back hahaha. many shady seller on ebay
P.s once i receive the part and install it, i will update on the condition/quality
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Link
noris08 said:
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251591046010?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
working
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
sdcaliber said:
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
jamracer said:
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
sdcaliber said:
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
jamracer said:
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
sshark said:
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah maybe, all depends of course. most of these products are subject to opinions if there is doubt about their OEM legitimacy. but for me, i will not buy non OEM for battery again, it scares the hell out of me. let's say i had a horrible experience before. i had Note 3, and bought a battery for it. the extra capacity made me drools lol, so i went with it. days later, i found the phone in total meltdown, literally. woke up from my sleep, and the phone is melting/fire.... scary scary experience. the good thing, i do not sleep while my phone next to me. it was on my table, charging.
side not: the original battery of Note 3 malfunctioned
OEM
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it on Ebay and now it´s working fine, nice!!.. First I bought only the digitizer and it was faulting, but now this assembly is really working fine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281280382756?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Regards,
Just posting to share my experience. I bought a replacement lcd\digitizer for my G2. Once installed, i had white lines going up and down the screen.
Some devices use different panel hardware (JDI instead of LGIT) and you will have white lines after using patched kernel. You must use those kernel with "_jdi" in its name. More info:http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=122
After flashing the new kernal the phone works great. The phone does get noticeably hotter, unfortunately, which is a little worrisome.
The kernal issue and the heat lead me to believe that what i bought was not oem.
Sent from my LG-D801 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Is D800 frame compatible with LS980?
sdcaliber said:
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just working on a frame lcd assembly swap on an LS980 rev 1. The frame I bought was a Verizon LV980 and the vibrator was off buy at least 3mm, I didn't mind losing the vibrator to gain a good lcd. Then the proximity detector layout was different, the LS980 had an extra piece that fit in a hole, but it could be removed. About 5mm below that is a ground connector for the motherboard on the LS980 but not on the VS980 and the tab holding the antenna coax hit the motherboard making the frame about 0.5mm too small causing the mobo not to seat.
All of these could be amended. Shave 0.5mm of the soft metal chassis, very easy, mobo grounds in at least six other places and proximity sensor had a removable tab.
But the bottom of the chassis where the dock port/usb board sits was just too different, the LS980 daughterboard wouldn't seat, it was larger. It could be forced but only at an angle that made the usb port off-center and not parallel to the opening. My repair stopped and re-assembled the phone with the LS980 chassis complete with my damaged lcd.
-----attached pics of proximity sensor, and ground connector area, didn't take more, I was getting mad.
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I bought an LCD from this company. I am very happy with it. It is true HD and the it was shipped for me in 3 days as they said. At first I was very worried with the comments but I took the risk and I am satisfied with it. I don't know why others complain about it but I recommend them.
So I have had the Z3 Compact since first week of release and from day 1, it had a tiny chip (could call it a nic) on the leading edge of the front bezel just above the magnetic port. I decided to keep it, but the number of these indentations has increased to 12.
One of these nics has flaked further to almost 2mm diameter by the top left corner.
All of the marks are on the front leading long bezel, both sides.
I always put my phone in a pocket without other items
I always lie my phone face up.
I don't use any kind of stands or holders in the car
No other phone (Moto X, Nexus 5, Nexus 4, Razr I) has ever suffered anything like this.
There are no marks on the back or front faces (cheap screen protectors on both, which usually scratch/mark easily)
I suspect its poor adhesion of the top black paint layer on the bezel, but cannot prove it obviously.
I can send it back to Sony, but they may say its not manufacturing fault and thus charge me £25 for sending it back without repairing (I find this disgraceful)
I have little experience with Sony customer service or care so it's a risk I don't really want to take.
Question, has anyone elses phone suffered in a similar way?
Or have positive (or negative) experience with Sony UK?
Thanks in advance.
You can send it back to Sony, most of the times they charge you with shipping costs yup.
Manufacturing error or not, but also try to look from their side, if it were easy to get your device repaired without costs or even replaced, more people would do it, even if it was their mistake.
So in the end they can't just believe everyone.
They will repair it when you send them, but thy might ask for repairing fees.
I'm noticing the same thing. I keep the phone in my pocket as well, but I do keep it with a leather keyholder (pretty soft leather), so I'm surprised that there are any chips/nicks at all. I actually have 3 right now, first one in just about the same place as you (above the magnetic charging port), a smaller one above the power button, and the last one in the bottom right corner of the phone.
I always assumed the metal bezels on these phones was powder-coated aluminum, which is pretty tough. Anyone know what is actually is?
Dsteppa said:
You can send it back to Sony, most of the times they charge you with shipping costs yup.
Manufacturing error or not, but also try to look from their side, if it were easy to get your device repaired without costs or even replaced, more people would do it, even if it was their mistake.
So in the end they can't just believe everyone.
They will repair it when you send them, but thy might ask for repairing fees.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I understand that, but I know that these ever increasing faults are not of my doing, but I cannot prove it.. Therefore, it is possible (maybe probable) that Sony will offer an expensive repair or simply send it back with the total cost to me being close to £30.
pipspeak said:
I always assumed the metal bezels on these phones was powder-coated aluminum, which is pretty tough. Anyone know what is actually is?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe they are painted plastic but I might be wrong.
I've said before that this is one of the few annoyances I have with the build quality of this phone. The Z3 doesn't have the front and back plastic bezels as the metal frame attaches directly to the front and back glass. I don't mind the transparent plastic on the sides of the Z3C but I don't like that they needed to use plastic front and back bezels.
To answer the OP's question, i also have light scuffs and small chips on the front plastic bezel of my Z3C but the back is near perfect at the moment. If I'd have known the build quality in these areas was lacking I'd have waited until I had a case before i used it but it's too late now.
I've decided to return the phone for repair (hopefully under warranty) and have ordered several cases (I usually do this once I am satisfied that the phone is a keeper). Will keep you posted.
Hi
My phone fell on concrete and landed on the corner closest to the rear camera. It's damaged it quite badly, with most of the area closest to impact now cracked into small fragments, and the cracked lines extend all across the rear of the phone. Thankfully the front is not damaged and the camera and flash still work fine.
Does anyone have a rough idea of what it would cost to repair the back? I'm considering sending it to Sony UK, but would be interested in knowing about any others that offer authorised repairs. My warranty is due to run out in December, so I may look into 3rd party specialists who can guarantee a repair that would maintain waterproof features of the phone.
Cheers
It would probably run you around below 100 dollars. When the back panel is broken and according to you dropping it on a concrete ground, the whole back panel needs to be replaced, my price estimate could also increase alot if the camera sensor is damaged as well.
If you decide to bring it to "after market" fixers, you could get it repaired cheaper but chances are they don't have the sealant used to restore waterproofing after the back panel has been opened.
Amazon
Hi, just look for Amazon products, my back glass broke 1 month ago and i fixed it myself and it's quite easy, u just have to buy the replacement from amazon, mine cost 15€ (10$) and it's original, i just unsticked the old one and replaced with the spare part, it's 5 minutes work, good luck :good:
Sony can't/won't give me a quote for replacing the back without sending my phone back in, something I won't do just to get a quote, so opted to try my luck with OEM parts from other sources. From eBay, I bought an OEM rear glass with adhesive, suction cups and some guitar picks, for grand total of £15. I've seen some videos online and it seems very simple. Next up, sourcing a hair dryer to soften the glue
@stanciuvlad11: How's the waterproofness holding up, did you test it?
As stanciuvlad11 mentions it is very easy to do it yourself. Just buy on eBay the back glass (some $10) and the sticking tape (some $3) and look any of the several video tutorials.
At the end you can check that the device still hermetic by typing *#*#7378423#*#* then tap on Service Tests > Pressure Sensor and press in the middle of the front screen to see if the milibar increases
Should the pressure change or not when waterproof?
The pressure increases when it is waterproof. The rationale is that when you apply pressure in the center of the screen the air within the phone cannot escape (it is hermetic) so the pressure increases. You can observe up to some 20-30milibar increase.
If you open one of the tabs or simply the phone is not properly sealed the milibar displayed does not show any movement with your finger pressuring the screen.
So I had an incident with my beloved Z3c (D5803) and now I find myself in need to repair it. I don't really want to share the details of such incident and to be honest they are not that important. What's important is that I decided to replace the whole LCD/digitizer assembly.
What would you recommend in terms of better achievable waterproofing, just the LCD/digitizer with the adhesive tape or the whole midframe with the display attached already? The one with the midframe attached already costs about 33% more, but I'm willing to pay the premium if that means that the phone will still be waterproof after the repair.
The same question goes for the back cover, should I just buy new adhesive and re-use the current one (which is in almost mint condition) or just buy a new cover with the tape pre-attached?
And lastly, I'm planning on buying this stuff on eBay, and I'd like to know what you think about these listings. I must note that I have a 20% site wide discount coupon, so if you recommend another site because it's cheaper keep that in mind.
With midframe
Without
Just yesterday I replaced my back panel with one found on witrigs, OEM I believe. Because it was already cracked it came off really easy and I didn't need to preheat the adhesive. There was very little residue which I removed and after that plopped the new one on. The new glass back panel came with adhesive already on it, I would advice that. The whole process was very easy and took about 10 minutes. Look around for repair/disassembly tutorials and good luck!
XclusionNL said:
Just yesterday I replaced my back panel with one found on witrigs, OEM I believe. Because it was already cracked it came off really easy and I didn't need to preheat the adhesive. There was very little residue which I removed and after that plopped the new one on. The new glass back panel came with adhesive already on it, I would advice that. The whole process was very easy and took about 10 minutes. Look around for repair/disassembly tutorials and good luck!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your advice, I've already seen a couple of disassembly guides and I think I've got a good idea on how to fix this myself (or in the worst case scenario I could go to one of the hundreds of repair shops in the downtown, here in Mexico City, and pay the guy a couple of bucks to install the parts I'm going to buy).
What I'm most worried about is the waterproofing; have you tested your phone in this regard? I still don't know which part to buy, the whole assembly or just the LCD/digitizer.
As for the back cover... I might as well buy both the adhesive and the back cover, it would be like 7-8 bucks for both.
jhonyrod said:
Thank you for your advice, I've already seen a couple of disassembly guides and I think I've got a good idea on how to fix this myself (or in the worst case scenario I could go to one of the hundreds of repair shops in the downtown, here in Mexico City, and pay the guy a couple of bucks to install the parts I'm going to buy).
What I'm most worried about is the waterproofing; have you tested your phone in this regard? I still don't know which part to buy, the whole assembly or just the LCD/digitizer.
As for the back cover... I might as well buy both the adhesive and the back cover, it would be like 7-8 bucks for both.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not tested if it is water proof because I am not sure it will survive the test As for your second question: if the primary concern is waterproofness you might as well go for the whole assembly, that seems saver to me
XclusionNL said:
I have not tested if it is water proof because I am not sure it will survive the test As for your second question: if the primary concern is waterproofness you might as well go for the whole assembly, that seems saver to me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I bought the full assembly, as well as 2 sets of adhesives and a back cover. I thought that I might be able to re-stick my current display (the only issue it has is a couple of dead lines in the bottom left edge; like 10 by 5 lines) and have it as a back up or maybe even sell it as scrap.
BTW, you can test if your phone is air tight in the service menu, if it is air tight it most likely is water tight as well. Dial #*#*SERVICE*#* #, then tests and then peressure sensor, squeeze the phone and you should see the pressure rise.
Mine, when brand new, rose a bit and then it slowly decreased... Now with the nature of the damage of the display I think that it wasn't entirely waterproof to begin with. Who knows? Maybe after the repair it will end up 'more' waterproof than before.
I just used that service menu, it shows me about 1020 millibar and goes slightly up when I firmly press the phone, so.... this means my repair was a success as far as air-tightness goes?
If it stays up for as long as you press it I reckon it still is waterproof (but then again, don't go swim with it based on this, even Sony doesn't recommend doing this anymore). If it goes down maybe it has a leak, but as I've said before, mine had such a leak since I bought it, so go figure.
I have read lots of threads and comments on the Internet regarding screen cracking on the z3c but most are dating back to early 2015.
As I am now considering buying a Z3C does anyone know if improvements have been made by Sony to address these issues for the 2016 models?
Thanks for any comments.
Nothing has changed. On the bright side, replacing said-glass is very cheap and easy to do. On the minus-side. Say bye-bye to any form of water-resistance. This long with the Z3C: I've grown to accept this phone won't be water-resistant unless I use a case because the seals and IP-68 rating is only for fresh-water and the rating completely depends on the ability of flap-seals and sealant of the back cover to to do its job. I hope I can convince you to disregard water-resistance factor in your purchase. Notably because Sony won't cover any repairs if the damage is a result of water-damage(personal experience). That way, you can swap back glass covers as you please. They go for like $2.
My z3c screens right top corner today unglued. Lasted for about 8 months since purchase, without case, without any water interference. Still under warranty, sending it for repair.
alpha-niner64 said:
Nothing has changed. On the bright side, replacing said-glass is very cheap and easy to do. On the minus-side. Say bye-bye to any form of water-resistance. This long with the Z3C: I've grown to accept this phone won't be water-resistant unless I use a case because the seals and IP-68 rating is only for fresh-water and the rating completely depends on the ability of flap-seals and sealant of the back cover to to do its job. I hope I can convince you to disregard water-resistance factor in your purchase. Notably because Sony won't cover any repairs if the damage is a result of water-damage(personal experience). That way, you can swap back glass covers as you please. They go for like $2.
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Thanks for the reply, if I understand you correctly replacing the back glass is not a big issue and is cheap, but what about the front screen? I did have a quick search around the net and it looks quite complicated and expensive to replace the front one.
Have you done the front one yourself?
Thanks.
vilx01 said:
My z3c screens right top corner today unglued. Lasted for about 8 months since purchase, without case, without any water interference. Still under warranty, sending it for repair.
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Yep, mine has unglued as well, after 7 months of usage (bought it brand new), I am sending it for repair also. When my warranty expires, I will replace case on my own, because I have black one, and I want black screen + white case
bmg777 said:
Thanks for the reply, if I understand you correctly replacing the back glass is not a big issue and is cheap, but what about the front screen? I did have a quick search around the net and it looks quite complicated and expensive to replace the front one.
Have you done the front one yourself?
Thanks.
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I service my own phones often enough to kind of say that replacing your own front screen is easy to do if you're starting out with this phoneYou take out the front-screen the same way you take apart the back screen.. As long as your motherboard components are in good condition like the USB Port, antenna, SIM/MicroSD slots, and the battery(cause this is glued very well to the motheboard), nearly everything on the Z3 Compact is expendable and easily replaceable.
alpha-niner64 said:
I service my own phones often enough to kind of say that replacing your own front screen is easy to do if you're starting out with this phoneYou take out the front-screen the same way you take apart the back screen.. As long as your motherboard components are in good condition like the USB Port, antenna, SIM/MicroSD slots, and the battery(cause this is glued very well to the motheboard), nearly everything on the Z3 Compact is expendable and easily replaceable.
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I've been using Z3C (15W33) since early september and this phone has really rough life. I mean working in very hard conditions (very cold outside > pretty warm inside the house) and I never really cared about it even when I know there are problems with the glass. Also I have a custom s-line case and that's the only protection... I dropped the phone twice or three times...
but it's still running pretty nice and there are no signs of any damage, the glass is more than OK