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Hi everybody,
I've got problems with connecting my Rikaline 6010 to the Car Kit. With the help of the forum I know now, wich pins I have to connect together. But I'm not be able to bring power to the Mouse. I have the +5V and GND connected but the LED on the mouse won't turn on. With a simple car adapter for the mouse and the xda it works perfect. I try to look inside the cable of the car adapter and it looks lite the cable, I build myself.
Maybe I have to short some pins inside the connector ??
Does anybody have a Rikaline 6010 successful connected to the xda car kit ?
thanks a lot
rob.
Make sure the switched power supply is connected.
I assume you are using the official XDA carkit.
I did some reverse engineering on this carkit and found that the GPS powerline is only working if the switched power line for the carkit is connected.
After disconnecting this line the GPS power will stay on for 1 hour and then automatically switch of.
Have you checked if there is power on the GPS connector of the carkit when nothing is connected? Maybe the current demand is to high? For pinlayout check www.vanhemert.biz
Francois
Hi Francois,
I think my problem is not the car kit. After it doesn't work with the carkit, I tried to connect my car-adapter-cable with the cable, I made myself to the gps-mouse. And also there, the mouse doesn't get power. So I simply put +5V and GND to the pins of the mouse-connection and it doesn't work.
Maybe GND must be connected to two pins or to the GND-pin AND the PS2-connector's metall ?
I think, I have to buy a H203e to make it work....
rob.
Pinlayout
I have looked at the data sheet (http://www.rikaline.com/pdf/gps-6010-manual-e.pdf) and it looks straightforward. Pin 2 and 4 should do the job but I can imagine that you need a correct RS232 signal to get the thing up and running. Are you sure that the LED is just an indication of power or does it only light if power and RS-232 is correct?
As you can see in the schematics on my website I had trouble opening the COM port on my XDA, Communication just did not start unless I pulled the DCD line (pin 6) to Vcc. This will activate Active sync in the same way as the original cable set I used to have.
Good luck,
Francois
Hi,
thanks for your reply. The LED on the GPS-Mouse have to turn on simply by bringing power to it. I've tried that by using my car adapter cable and simply connect the mouse to the cable and not connect the xda...and the LED turns on.
I've ordered today a Hi203E and I will try to conncet it as you described on your homepage....hope it will work (if not, I'll be back ;-))
thanks a lot
rob.
Hi Francois,
today I received my Hi203e and I will try to connect it to the carkit.
One Question:
Is the connector, which is shown on your homepage and labeled with "to gps" the female connector, which is wired to the gps-mouse or the male connector, which is wired on the selfmade cable between carkit and PS2-connector of the mouse ??
thanks
rob.
hi,
ok, my previous question is now obsolet. The connector, which is wired to the Hi203e, is male (at my Rikaline6010 it is female). So I have to buy a female connector and build new cable. I made a first test by bringing the +5V and GND of the carkit over an adaptercable to the gps-mouse and (yippie) it worked. The LED on the mouse turns on !! Looks pretty good.
...to be continued (if I have the new connector...)
rob.
Hi Francois,
I've got it now and it works perfect. Thanks again for the Info's on your webpage.
2 points:
I've got a low noise (frequently repeated) in the speaker, when the gps is active. Is there something to do against that ?
And how can I stop the activation of active-sync, when i put the xda into the carkit ?
Do you know that ?
thanks
rob
noise...
rob said:
I've got a low noise (frequently repeated) in the speaker, when the gps is active. Is there something to do against that ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would guess this is the speaker wire picking up the GSM signal, nothing to do with the GPS. Try re-aligning so that the wires relative to the antenna of the XDA. If that doesn't work, you could experiment with ferrite beads (these ugly black blocks on all modern cables) on the wires.
Same problem here, but...
I found that if I start serial communication with the GPS unit, i will hear some interferance via the speaker. It looks like the auto mute functions does not work immediatlly after inserting the XDA and "the connection is left open".
Workaround:
Pressing the red phone button to generate a tone (keypress) activates the automute and the interferance will disappear. (at least is does in my case)
Auto start of the active sync process:
This is caused by the DCD line pulled to Vcc. I first owned a standard GPS Y-cable (XDA/GPS/Lighter) and it showed the same behaviour. My first experiment was to not use the DCD line (just gnd, tx and rx)but at that time TomTom could not open the COM port. I did no further investigation but one of the forum members suggested to disable the IR connection and auto sync, this should free the com port to TomTom and not start active sync automatically. Again I have not tested it but if you will, i am interested.
Good luck,
francois
hi,
Been reading this thread with alot of interest...
can someone help me with a problem, I have the O2 carkit installed in my car, and i also have a rikaline 6010 that i would like to attach it.
I have found the GPS connector that i need to attach the GPS reciever to but when i check the connector for +5v its not there...
Does anyone know where i can connect it to... looks like the person who connect my carkit could'nt be bothered about connecting up the GPS connector properly...
and also the colour of wires that everyone mentions, mine are a different colour...
i have the following from my rikaline reciever, 4 in total...
red
black
green
white
does anyone know what connects to what????
Many Thanks
Zetex
Rikalinegps 6010 with cables - from eBay
This receiver is available with cable for XDA via eBay (see link below), but you guys have got me worried. I'm thinking of buying the Rikaline 6010 but am I going to have to do all this business of rewiring etc? What's the economical way of buying all the other bits that I need (Software, Car Kit etc)?
I'm looking for some easy to follow advice. Keep it simple please.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4668&item=3094896604&rd=1
:? :? :?
Help me psl my IIi can not heard phone conversation when plug sync charger.
I have exactly the same problem.
I bought a retractable sync/charge cable from ebay.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/PDA-Sync-and-Charge-Cables-and-Crad
However, if the cable is plugged into the phone, then the phone speaker (and I think also the mic) are muted. The cable dosn't even have to be plugged into the PC USB port to cause this problem.
At first I thought this was some incorrect wiring on pin 19 of the connector at the XDA end of the cable. This signal is meant to control whether the sound is driven out of the car kit pins or not. However, this signal was not connected on the connector, which should be ok.
I noticed that if the phone is paced in the original sync cradle, then the pda appears to go into handsfree mode, which would tally with one of the functions of pin 19.
All I can guess is that the s/w in the phone detects a signal on the USB pins and attempts to route sound out via the car kit pins.
Anybody know of a fix for this?
Cheers,
Chris.
I know many people have exactly this problem. It is not a problem of our XDAIIi, it is the problem of the Sync charger. I remember someone has shown how to fix this problem of the sync charger in a Vietnamese mobile phone forum but I don't understand anything 'bout electric so I can not translate it. What a pity!
Hi MrSandman,
I dont speak Vietnamese, but I do know electronics.
If you could post a link to the forum, I may be able to make some sense of it.
Thanks,
Chris.
I have the link but I'm sure u will not understand anything 'cause everything is in Vietnamese. In that topic, one guy said that he could fix that f***ing problem and if anyone wanted to fix it, just brought the sync charger to him. He just shown how to fix it in a few words that no one could understand. But in general, he said: "open the plug head of the sync charger and remove the first "masse" string". Does anyone know what is the "masse string"?
Fixed !!!
This works for my cable - but try this at your own risk!!
After thinking about it some more and re-reading the connector signal descriptions here:
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
I took another look at the wiring in my cable.
I noticed that pin2 (GND/Sense) was connected to the other GND pins at the XDA end of the cable. The notes in the above web page states this will cause the phone to hang up.
I disconnected this pin from GND and now I can hear phonecalls when the cable is plugged into the phone.
I noticed that pin 5 (Analog GND) was also connected to the other GND pins which is also apparently a bad thing. I disconnected it just in case.
Pins 20,21 and 22 are the 5v positive charge connections. They are not connected in my cable and I wondered about connecting them to the USB 5v signal. I decided to leave it in the end as they may draw too much current form the USB port. The phone does charge anyway - just very slowly.
Hope this helps.
Chris.
Mentioned fix works fine for me
Thanks!
I have the same problem also.. i've read the wiki but did'nt catch well what it saying. Please put in in a simple words step by step what to do..oo please..
2 GND / SENSE
5 ANALOG GND
16 GND
17 GND
18 GND
In my cable connector there were two small red wires soldered to 3 pins (from '2' to '5' and from '5' to all three GND pins which were soldered together as one pin;
The thing is that '2' shouldn't be connected to GND. In wiki there were suggestion not to connect '5' to GND as well (has nothing to do with sound problem).
I removed those red wires and everything is working fine (I'm using it for a month now);
Be careful and good luck!
Any workarounds for a voip app and microphone for a rooted book color?
the cool guys that know what they are doing are working on bluetooth, that seems to be the best bet to getting a microphone working with NC, cross your fingers!
what about a wired headset with a built in mic. does the nook have the connections to support this?
I think the two best options right now for voice applications are probably the Bluetooth and the slight possibility that the micro-USB port on the Nook seems to have quite a few extra pins on it, which may have left B&N open to a proprietary connector that would allow for additional device connectivity via the micro-USB port.
I've purchased a number of micro-USB adapters in order to plug various devices into the micro-USB port of the NC, with zero success (keyboards, USB headsets, mice, etc). Clearly that port isn't currently operating in that manner, and I'm sure there's a tech savy person that could drop in and give us a simple answer to why this is.
I was also curious about the headphone port possibly have mic capabilities, and was about to purchase a single post headset to test the theory, but then I took a (very unscientific) look at the headphones jack, and it would appear that there aren't enough ring connectors inside it to support an additional channel. Obviously the guys doing the tear-down would know far more about this than myself.
We'll see what turns up over the coming months.
Found this teardown post with spec list and it says that there is no mic input in the headphone jack. I know I read another teardown post which I cannot find that indicated the same thing. I agree that our best bet may be getting the bluetooth working.
KryptoNyte39 said:
I've purchased a number of micro-USB adapters in order to plug various devices into the micro-USB port of the NC, with zero success (keyboards, USB headsets, mice, etc). Clearly that port isn't currently operating in that manner, and I'm sure there's a tech savy person that could drop in and give us a simple answer to why this is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you detail what sort of adapters you tried? Have you tried a gender changer (type a-a female-female) on the end of the nook cord attached to a keyboard?
Someone correct me if I am wrong but, in order for the usb to do something other than just charge and connect to the PC from the usb, you would have to activate USB host, which is not turned on in stock. Hence no of the fancy toys will work. There are a lot of funky pins on the connector so it may have to be some funky adapter, assuming you get usb host running. There are a lot of hackery potential, but until that project is completed, the wait for bluetooth continues.
Go Occip! (the guy hacking the bluetooth.)
Mike
This is what I've been thinking about. I don't have the ability to figure out how to activate the USB Host function, but I read several posts about how it worked on N1, D1, and Hero.
The thing I want to try is using a micro USB to 3.5mm minijack cable like those that came with the G1. It's the only thing I could think of that could logically be supported by the default system since it was necessary in 1.5 on that device.
I don't think anyone is using VOIP yet, but you may be very interested in this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=989637
I'm running the CM7 image via SD card from that thread, and the Bluetooth works, and I can connect to my phone and my headset. Several people can connect to their standalone GPS units. Worth watching.
Anyone know if the micro USB port is even powered?
On a lot of phones, the USB connectors aren't powered by the device (like my HD2), so you have to hack together a proper setup that supplies power.
Hi to everyone. Sorry if I will not be brief, but this problem makes me going crazy.
My previous phone died prematurely, so I bought a shiny Oneplus 3T and I'm very satisfied with it. Problem is, that this new piece of technology has an USB-C connector instead of the good old microUSB one.
In my car (Opel) I put an USB extension cable from the Android Auto unit (Intellilink r4.0) to the inside of the center arm, and since now I used that cable to connect my previous phone to the unit. Cable is 1.8 m long (about 5 ft for English people) and worked very well.
Now there goes the trouble: to connect my new OnePlus, I bought a simple microUSB to C adapter... it works very well at home with my PC but... Android Auto unit doesn't recognize the phone.
It says "connect the USB cable". At the same time, phone is charging, so power is connected to it.
Ok, maybe there are inconsistencies with the USB converter, I thought.
So I purchased a USB A to C cable, 1.8 m long (just like my previous normal microUSB one).
No way. Unit insists to not recognize the connection!?
Now, to cut this long thing out... I tried any combination of things, extenders, adapters... the only way to make things work is to use max a 1 m (3,3 ft) long USB A to C cable. No longer than that. Neither with a short extension cable.
But with 1 m I can't reach the center arm! I need at least 1.2/1.4 m (4-4.5 ft) cable lenght.
So, this is it. Who can be the culprit? AA head unit? Or perhaps Oneplus 3T has a "weak" USB?
I wonder if anyone has experienced issues like this... and if there are workarounds. :fingers-crossed:
jonsat said:
Hi to everyone. Sorry if I will not be brief, but this problem makes me going crazy.
My previous phone died prematurely, so I bought a shiny Oneplus 3T and I'm very satisfied with it. Problem is, that this new piece of technology has an USB-C connector instead of the good old microUSB one.
In my car (Opel) I put an USB extension cable from the Android Auto unit (Intellilink r4.0) to the inside of the center arm, and since now I used that cable to connect my previous phone to the unit. Cable is 1.8 m long (about 5 ft for English people) and worked very well.
Now there goes the trouble: to connect my new OnePlus, I bought a simple microUSB to C adapter... it works very well at home with my PC but... Android Auto unit doesn't recognize the phone.
It says "connect the USB cable". At the same time, phone is charging, so power is connected to it.
Ok, maybe there are inconsistencies with the USB converter, I thought.
So I purchased a USB A to C cable, 1.8 m long (just like my previous normal microUSB one).
No way. Unit insists to not recognize the connection!?
Now, to cut this long thing out... I tried any combination of things, extenders, adapters... the only way to make things work is to use max a 1 m (3,3 ft) long USB A to C cable. No longer than that. Neither with a short extension cable.
But with 1 m I can't reach the center arm! I need at least 1.2/1.4 m (4-4.5 ft) cable lenght.
So, this is it. Who can be the culprit? AA head unit? Or perhaps Oneplus 3T has a "weak" USB?
I wonder if anyone has experienced issues like this... and if there are workarounds. :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some of the specs for USB-C cables are less than 1m, depending on what the other connection/adapter is. I guess your PC & car outlets are different specs.
See
http://www.cypress.com/knowledge-ba...ngth-cables-usb-type-c-applications-kba204034
Or maybe your cable is not certified so may be more sensitive to outside interference eg from ignition system.
Uhmmm... very interesting information. I'll try to borrow a "certified" cable. Since now, I tried with normal cables (4 different sizes and brand) to no avail (more than 1 m lenght).
Thanks!
jonsat said:
Uhmmm... very interesting information. I'll try to borrow a "certified" cable. Since now, I tried with normal cables (4 different sizes and brand) to no avail (more than 1 m lenght).
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check what is the spec of your USB outlets on car and PC, are they different? Then cable may not make any difference to your result.
I'd think that if you have a will known brand cable it would be certified. The "full feature" cables have a chip inside that the device reads, it then sends data etc to that spec. I'm not really up to date with this stuff anymore.....
By the way, my new phone is a Oneplus 3T and I discovered that has many problems with AA in general. And (perhaps) even an USB-C port not completely complying to the standard.
Still, I will try other brands of cables in search of the good one.
Thanks again
Hi,
I had exactly the same issue as you but with the One Plus 3. Had a couple of aftermarket cables (USB - A to C). Sometimes, it connected for about 1-2 minutes but then i had to disconnect and reconnect the cable. Not fun when you are driving.
Also have an Opel (2017 Astra Sports Tourer K) with the Navi900. The only way i found out to solve this issue was to use the original, red cable that comes with the phone. Since i didn't want to lose the Dash charging or, everytime carry the cable with me, i bought a second cable (1,0m) from Oneplus store.
After i did that, i never had disconnections or problems recognizing the phone. 2 weeks driving with various amount of driving time and so far, zero issues.
Also helps if you are using any battery saving apps like greenify or droid optimizer, that you whitelist the android auto app from the auto closing ( i know there's a better name for it).
Hope it helps.
Thanks for your contribution, inccubbus. I think I read a post from you in Oneplus forum, perhaps.
Fact is that 1 mt cable to me is short, I was using 2 mt with my previous phone (LG with microusb port) and no problems at all! Perhaps I may try with the new 1,5 mt red cable from Oneplus store.
But all of this is just ridicolous. Adapters won't work... in example I tried a 20 cm microusb cable with adapter to usb-c and (guess what) no connection!? I start to think that Oneplus is the culprit.
No problem mate. Sorry to hear that you need a longer cable. Before I bought the OnePlus "official" cable, I bought a total of 4 cables from different brands and lengths. 50cm, 1m, 1,8m and 2m. Total of about 60€ to find out that I needed the one cable I already had.
This is borderline ridiculous. Never tried the original because... No fast charge in the car. Duh.
Hope that the official cable works for you. Fingers crossed!
I must add that, even with a short cable, connection drops every now and then with AA freezing.
Another known Oneplus 3T issue...
One thing that occurred to me: do you also have turned on the "automatically connect with Bluetooth" option? I did a test with that option on and the cable connected and, almost like clockwork, every 3-4 minutes I'd lose the connection. Turned that option off and everything came back to"normal".
Did some research and that option is only for cars that don't have a display/Android auto compatibility so the phone screen is the interface.
Sorry if I am writing something that all knew but, in the options doesn't say anything. I was under the impression that I could "cast" the phone to the display without needing the cable. Like Chromecast
@inccubbus, I noticed that issue... but nevertheless I have trouble of disconnections even without checking "automatically connect with BT". However, I have also a BT headset, and if that BT setting is enabled it will disconnects the headset too every few minutes. AA software is very rough.
@jonsat @inccubbus
Just come across this browsing, interesting
https://www.gizmodo.com.au/2016/02/cheap-usb-c-cables-could-kill-your-phone-or-laptop/
Not sure if this will be applicable to anyone else, but just in case. I started to get connection issues between my Nexus 6p and Pioneer stereo via the cable. Tried multiple cables, but all had the same issue to differing degrees. Then realised there was some lint in the phone USB c port, so cleaned it out with a tooth pick. That seems to have fixed it.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using XDA-Developers Legacy app
IronRoo said:
@jonsat @inccubbus
Just come across this browsing, interesting
https://www.gizmodo.com.au/2016/02/cheap-usb-c-cables-could-kill-your-phone-or-laptop/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, very interesting although not directly related to topic. Thanks anyway.
Very interesting indeed. Even though the prices of the "aftermarket" cables I purchased were even more expensive than the OnePlus originals, I see what the article mean. Most people think they are just cables but, capacitance, impedance, amperage... All of these things usually are not "copied" from the original and can cause serious damage, since they need to be "universal" and suit different brands/models with different needs.
Thanks for sharing the article! I almost see the link with the issue discussed here.
Btw, I had one random disconnection on Sunday in the final 5 minutes of a 1 hour drive.
Disconnected the cable, reconnected it and, since then, 2 hours of driving with zero disconnections. I really can't find a pattern for these things.
jonsat said:
Hi to everyone. Sorry if I will not be brief, but this problem makes me going crazy.
My previous phone died prematurely, so I bought a shiny Oneplus 3T and I'm very satisfied with it. Problem is, that this new piece of technology has an USB-C connector instead of the good old microUSB one.
In my car (Opel) I put an USB extension cable from the Android Auto unit (Intellilink r4.0) to the inside of the center arm, and since now I used that cable to connect my previous phone to the unit. Cable is 1.8 m long (about 5 ft for English people) and worked very well.
Now there goes the trouble: to connect my new OnePlus, I bought a simple microUSB to C adapter... it works very well at home with my PC but... Android Auto unit doesn't recognize the phone.
It says "connect the USB cable". At the same time, phone is charging, so power is connected to it.
Ok, maybe there are inconsistencies with the USB converter, I thought.
So I purchased a USB A to C cable, 1.8 m long (just like my previous normal microUSB one).
No way. Unit insists to not recognize the connection!?
Now, to cut this long thing out... I tried any combination of things, extenders, adapters... the only way to make things work is to use max a 1 m (3,3 ft) long USB A to C cable. No longer than that. Neither with a short extension cable.
But with 1 m I can't reach the center arm! I need at least 1.2/1.4 m (4-4.5 ft) cable lenght.
So, this is it. Who can be the culprit? AA head unit? Or perhaps Oneplus 3T has a "weak" USB?
I wonder if anyone has experienced issues like this... and if there are workarounds. :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have a OnePlus 3T, but my phone has a USB C connection (I have a ZTE ZMax Pro) and I haven't had any issues with the connections to AA (other than USB C is harder to plug in and unplug than before). I have a couple different USB C cables - one about 3-5 feet long, and the other about one foot - and both work fine. I'd guess your cables were the culprit. Hope this worked out for you!
EDIT: Oops, didn't read the replies so I see that my post was absolutely non-helpful. Sorry!
I recently got my USB-C port replaced by Razer because it was charging right and it out of nowhere stop syncing to Android auto. Now it charges fine but my car still won't recognize the phone, it will for a sec and then it disconnects. Also when I plug my earphones in, the audio still plays through the speakers, in option pops up to change the USB preference but it won't do it.
Dapper Dan66 said:
I recently got my USB-C port replaced by Razer because it was charging right and it out of nowhere stop syncing to Android auto. Now it charges fine but my car still won't recognize the phone, it will for a sec and then it disconnects. Also when I plug my earphones in, the audio still plays through the speakers, in option pops up to change the USB preference but it won't do it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
One thing is that some USB-C headphones don't have a AMP/DAC built-in. This is a common problem with Razer Phone 2 users, as it doesn't have one inside. So, if your headphone adapter or USB-C headphones don't have one built-in it won't work. 2, seems like Android Auto doesn't like some USB cables. Try some troubleshooting from at the "My Android Auto app isn't working" page on the Android Auto help page.
I was experiencing relatively the same thing. I tried cleaning and tightening the usb-c port on my phone. Didn't help. So I tried cleaning out the usb-c charging cable, the end that plugs into the phone. Problem solved. It works fine now, for the most part. Still will disconnect from Android Auto if I move the phone around to bunch. Or put the cable in a bind near the end that plugs into the phone.
AshtonGamer said:
One thing is that some USB-C headphones don't have a AMP/DAC built-in. This is a common problem with Razer Phone 2 users, as it doesn't have one inside. So, if your headphone adapter or USB-C headphones don't have one built-in it won't work. 2, seems like Android Auto doesn't like some USB cables. Try some troubleshooting from at the "My Android Auto app isn't working" page on the Android Auto help page.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Android auto and the adapter for the earphones used to work fine, it just happened out of nowhere before way before I sent the phone to get fixed like 2 weeks ago, the problems started last year but i think there was an update of some sort. It still won't connect, even when using the original adapter and my pc doesn't even pick up that the phone is even connected, it will just charge. I've already check the device manager to see if it was a bad driver but nothing. no matter what device i connect, it will just say "Charging connected device via USB". ive Already tried USB debugging, disable USB audio routing, cleaning it, and apps to manually control it.