Hi, I read with interest the posts about wobbly (back and forth) docks on the tf101.
My TF700T developed this also after just 1 month.
Aditionally and more seriously perhaps, I noticed it stopped docking securely. I examined both the dock and the tablet and eventually noticed the retaining pin (inside the hole) on the right side of the tablet seems to have broken off due to frequently docking and undocking the two.
Has anyone else seen this?
ive sent it back to Asus who are claiming customer induced damage. This make me very angry bcoz i looked after it like a baby. all i did was use it a lot both docked and undocked.it never left my house. I reckon its a design flaw and eventually all many more of you will notice this.
I have not had this issue after 18+ months of use on my TF101
You may want to ask in the TF700 forum for feedback on that model.
I just started to notice the same thing after 6 months but it's barely noticeable. Also the tf101 was their "affordable / low-end" model so it's to be expected. I would contact them for a replacement.
Lethe6 said:
I just started to notice the same thing after 6 months but it's barely noticeable. Also the tf101 was their "affordable / low-end" model so it's to be expected. I would contact them for a replacement.
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Mine is the top end 64GB Transformer Infinity. As you say its barely noticeable. However it is insecure and if you combine the fault with the hinge that allows it to rotate too easily under the weigth of a tilted tablet, with the more serious issue of snapped docking pins then I would say there is potential for the two to separate and the tablet to fall and smash!
There IS a problem with the quality control of the docks. Some people have no problems. Some are wobbly. Some, like mine, will not move at all. My TF700/201 dock was so stiff when it arrived that i could see the tablet beginning to flex when trying to close it but the dock was not rotating at all. After un-docking the tablet I couldn't even rotate the docking clamp with my bare hand. Not being one to waste time or money sending things off or trying to return them, I opened up the tablet myself and fixed the problem.
This Transformer Prime video shows you how to take it apart. It's not very difficult.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwAypkC26Cc
I doubt that anything major with the design has changed for the TF701 dock since the TF700 dock was a re-branded TF201 dock.
Skip to 10:54 in the video and note the two large silver mounting brackets for the dock with 3 screws each holding them down and the silver nuts at the end of the shaft which the docking clamp rotates on.
To adjust the tension on the dock you need to turn the nuts on the ends of the shaft. They provide tension on the docking clamp.
Depending on the tools you have available it will most likely be easier to loosen the three mounting screws on both sides so that you can create a little more room by lifting the docking mechanism up away from the back of the casing to get a good grip on the nuts. I would recommend not taking the screws all the way out of the clamps. That being said, don't try to turn the nuts forcefully without a firm grip on the docking clamp. Just pay attention to whats going on so as not to create another problem whilst fixing this one.
Remember to set both sides as evenly as possible so you're not torquing the face of the tablet with the docking clamp when you close the tablet. I loosened both of mine up and then slowly tightened them until the resistance felt the same. Without the tablet in there it will be very apparent when one side is tighter than the other.
After adjusting the tension, re-tighten the mounting bracket screws on both sides. You can dock the tablet and check to see if you've removed the wobble or lack thereof without putting the keyboard back on.
Once the dock tension is set to your liking you may also want to tape down some coins or washers inside the front of the dock if you have problems with the docked tablet tipping over backwards when set on an incline or with the screen tilted back just to avoid taking the dock apart again later.
Related
Do I get the award for the simplest mount?
Basically what I've done here is take the self-adhesive metal plate tomtom supply for securing their gps 'mice' to the car. It holds my Advantage just beautifully. I thought it might swing around a bit on its axis because the plate is so small but if you sit the end of the advantage that has two magnets (either side of the keyboard connector) it seems to hold in place pretty rigidly. I've tried a few twists and turns as well as emergency stops and not lost it yet. It might be the case that the screen would flop off the keyboard at a very rapid deceleration but it hasn't happened yet. I leave the cover on for convenience and to cushion its fall if that does happen.
So far it seems pretty secure but use at your own risk.
Cost approx GBP£5 (USD$10) plus tax, postage etc and ultimate convenience. No sucker bases, swing arms etc and it sits right where its needed for power etc.
I had mine left over from a previous tomtom installation but similar plates are apparently still available as spares e.g. from here.
I'm not sure mine is magnetic, by the way, it may just be metal.
The same I thought...but I sold TomTom gps years ago...
inframan said:
Do I get the award for the simplest mount?
Basically what I've done here is take the self-adhesive metal plate tomtom supply for securing their gps 'mice' to the car. It holds my Advantage just beautifully. I thought it might swing around a bit on its axis because the plate is so small but if you sit the end of the advantage that has two magnets (either side of the keyboard connector) it seems to hold in place pretty rigidly. I've tried a few twists and turns as well as emergency stops and not lost it yet. It might be the case that the screen would flop off the keyboard at a very rapid deceleration but it hasn't happened yet. I leave the cover on for convenience and to cushion its fall if that does happen.
So far it seems pretty secure but use at your own risk.
Cost approx GBP£5 (USD$10) plus tax, postage etc and ultimate convenience. No sucker bases, swing arms etc and it sits right where its needed for power etc.
I had mine left over from a previous tomtom installation but similar plates are apparently still available as spares e.g. from here.
I'm not sure mine is magnetic, by the way, it may just be metal.
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Great idea. So in theory, any magnetic adhesive strip should serve in the car. Hmmm....
Maybe these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Magnetic-Stri...yZ123866QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Or cheaper ones!
inframan said:
Do I get the award for the simplest mount?
Basically what I've done here is take the self-adhesive metal plate tomtom supply for securing their gps 'mice' to the car. It holds my Advantage just beautifully. I thought it might swing around a bit on its axis because the plate is so small but if you sit the end of the advantage that has two magnets (either side of the keyboard connector) it seems to hold in place pretty rigidly. I've tried a few twists and turns as well as emergency stops and not lost it yet. It might be the case that the screen would flop off the keyboard at a very rapid deceleration but it hasn't happened yet. I leave the cover on for convenience and to cushion its fall if that does happen.
So far it seems pretty secure but use at your own risk.
Cost approx GBP£5 (USD$10) plus tax, postage etc and ultimate convenience. No sucker bases, swing arms etc and it sits right where its needed for power etc.
I had mine left over from a previous tomtom installation but similar plates are apparently still available as spares e.g. from here.
I'm not sure mine is magnetic, by the way, it may just be metal.
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This is great! Can't believe I didn't think of it. DUH! Great job on reporting this.
I'm thinking of going to the hardware store and getting a small L shaped metal "plate" and put velcro on the back of it. Should hold things nicely.
Like the way you kept the case on it. I would have done exactly the same thing. Not only does it help but I would be too lazy to remove it all the time when I got into my vehicle.
magnetic adhesive strip
Actually I tried magnetic adhesive strip, but it is quite weak ... Found out a normal metal ruler is better magnetic adhesive, as the keyboard is quite a strong magnet
@topic
Its really a good idea... I might try it...
Im using this one
it's fantastic and very solid
I received my grey/white silicrylic case in the mail yesterday. It looks great and feels awesome, really is a pleasure to use.
My problem is, it just barely fits into the car dock (with the insert removed). It doesn't quite make enough contact with the charging port to charge, meaning it doesn't go into car dock mode (also, sits there and drains the battery). Has anyone else had the same experience (or the opposite)? Any idea where I need to hit the dock with my Dremel to make it fit? I can't quite tell where it's too tight.
Edit: Looks like it's on the bottom right corner as the dock is facing you... I think the acrylic part of the case is maybe 1mm too long for the dock. I'll try shaving that bit down a bit when I get home and see if that works.
I had the same issue with the HD Dock. Even tho others say they're silicrylic worked fine with the HD Dock, it was a very poor connection that would cause the webtop app to reset if i bumped the phone...and yes that was with the shim/insert removed.
As for the the Car Dock...it might be easier to cut the plug out of the dock so that you can raise it into a higher position and then use epoxy to set it back into place...or switch to a different case. I use Incipio's feather case now and I like it. Granted it doesn't offer as much protection...I just handle the phone more carefully than I've ever handled a phone before. It's too bad the hard shell of the silicrylic isn't easier to remove. if you're not careful, taking the shell on and off you'll eventually tear the silicone piece. Good luck.
Official word from Incipio is that the case is not compatible the dock. I'll show them...
Does anyone know how the bionic knows to switch to dock mode? I don't see a magnet inside the dock anywhere, and dock mode only seems to work when the power is on.
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using XDA App
Edit:
Broke out the Dremel this evening, trimmed off the lip that sticks out over the bottom right corner of the phone when it's on the dock, then expanded the hole through which the microusb charger comes so I could push it through about another millimeter so that it reaches far enough to charge the phone. I'm overall very happy with the situation. Kudos to Motorola for making the dock so roomy; I really had very little work to do to make this happen.
One very important thing I learned about cutting/sanding plastic with the Dremel - go with the slowest speed that will do the job. If you go too fast, you end up melting the plastic instead of cutting it or smoothing it, and it looks awful.
So lately I've been trying to figure out a way to get my tablet mounted at the optimum position for GPS usage without obstructing anything. In my van I have the Arkon seat bolt tablet mount, which is perfect because it keeps the tablet lower in the dash area so it's not blocking my view or baking in the sun, and it's also a solid mount point. I'd have no where else to mount it in the van aside from the window if it wasn't for this mount, and I absolutely don't like window mounting anything bigger than a cell phone. So in that instance, things work out great. Recently I put that Arkon mount in my car, which is a Hyundai Elantra. I thought since the distance from the seat bolt to the mount area would be less, I'd have more (if anything, too much) "neck" to work with. It turned out to be the opposite. My Elantra is stick shift, so when I had the tablet mounted in the most convenient spot that reached, I was all but punching the screen when I went to 3rd/5th gear. The only other alternative was to have it sitting over in the passenger area, which works for me but it adds as a huge inconvenience to any passengers in that seat since their left knee is where the tablet is. As a result I decided to put the Arkon seat bolt mount back in the van and work on something else for the car.
I have an empty space under my head unit for random storage, etc. I began to wonder if I could somehow utilize that space for incorporating a mount there. It would be the perfect height because it's higher up from the gear shift and it would definitely be optimum viewing for GPS usage. Originally I made the perfectly sized wooden block that had a slight slight slope to it so it would wedge itself in place. I then epoxy'd a BluRex Amazon case to it that I wasn't too happy with and was no longer using. This proved to be an awesome 10 minute mount, but it also gave me zero adjustability. I began to think was going to be important since last time we were on a road trip when the road I was on was going to be 3 hours long my wife watched a movie, so I knew I'd want a way to move it around for best viewing in multiple scenarios.
Here's two pictures from that build:
http://i.imgur.com/dsfQx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/guw86.jpg
I began to give it more thought. I knew that the empty space under my head unit was going to be the mount point, but I just had to figure out how. I searched through multiple mounts, particularly from Arkon. In the end I bought this mount on eBay for about 20 bucks. It came with a suction cup which I knew wouldn't work for my uses. My plan was to cut the arm off, drill a hole into a wooden block, then fill it with epoxy and shove the arm in. The block of wood in question would be a piece that I cut to perfectly fit the open slot under my deck with a slight slant to it, that way as I pushed it in, it wedged itself in place (much like the last mount)
When I got this mount from eBay I began to wonder if I even needed to cut the arm off. Fortunately the height of the suction cup base was ALMOST the height of the opening in my dash. I figured all I had to do was wedge that in place and I wouldn't have to do the whole sha-bang with the wooden block and epoxy. I ended up cutting off the suction cup since it was useless in my case. The bottom of the plastic suction cup area had some flat ridges, so I figured I'd use double sided tape instead of epoxy to adhere it to a flat piece of wood. The flat piece of wood was to bump the thickness up just enough to replace the need for that wooden wedge.
http://i.imgur.com/yHOLR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/l9mRO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/O4Gin.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KFJad.jpg
In the last picture you can see that I flipped things around. Originally I had the arm facing downward, but when I had the tablet mounted, 5th gear was still a problem as the gear shift would nearly hit the tablet. I knew if I flipped it upside down the arm would be facing upward, giving me some height... so I re-did the tape and put it on the other side. Since I mounted it more to the right (to ensure there was a super low chance of the steering wheel ever obstructing view, even if I was leaning far to the left while driving) I sensed a small amount of uneven stability since there was nothing keeping the left side tight against the roof of the opening. A small wooden wedge later and we were golden.
http://i.imgur.com/t7v4P.jpg
I ended up painting that wooden piece black to blend it in a little bit. I also noticed while driving that some roads had a degree of ripple to them, which would cause the tablet to sway back and forth. It didn't obstruct my view-ability of the screen at all, but if I was in an area where the tablet was casting a glare from the screen it became more obvious. On a hunch I pulled out two quarters and slid them under the arm mount, which is where I thought I was seeing a degree of flexing. Surprisingly it helped quite a bit and that area no longer has any flex. Not bad.
http://i.imgur.com/gzcV0.jpg
Final product:
http://i.imgur.com/LoUZT.jpg
Hopefully those of you out there who are finding some tablet mounts are *almost* perfect but not a home run can utilize some sort of DIY ideas like I did to make it work. I now have a solid mount for both vehicles, so no more worries about where the tablet will sit, etc. No complaints there. :good:
Great mod! I too have a compartment like that when I replaced my factory double din to a single din radio. To compensate, I had to put in a CD holder type opening, much like your area. I just have slots for CD cases. In my case, it wouldn't work out too well because my opening is held by epoxy and because of the texas heat, loses it's adhesiveness big time and alas, too weak for N7.
I have since bought a Kropsson Aero, which can hold both my tablet and Sensation. I do wish someone made a mount that can fit like the Aero can. Oh well, sorry to detract, just wanted to give you some kudos in getting a mount that works for you! :good:
I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?
JaSauders said:
I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?
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I just got the Aero in actually. It doesn't fit the N7 with my Seidio Case installed. So it's a fail on my end. It fits my Sensation fine, but thats a given lol.
As for the surface areas, I think you are correct that maybe the surface I am trying to apoxy to (on the car) does not play well/adhere with the epoxy I put on. No biggie though. I wanted something off the dash anyways. I may just get the exogear/kropsson mounts eventually...
EDIT: semi DIY modding LOL...
Just getting back, regarding the Kropsson Aero. Because of the Seidio case making the N7 bigger than expected to fit in the Kropsson Aero, I decided to cut down the foam pads on the sides. Now the N7 fits! The said arms are maxed out, but I will try it in the car after work. I took pics, but my work computer is borking at the card reader. But I'll try to upload them at home if I have time ( I have a 4 yr old to contend with lol).
I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.
I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10
xxgoosexx said:
I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10
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I have that same disk that came with my tomtom gps that I never used. But it works! I have it installed and holds the arkon mount fine without issues.
ydoucare said:
I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.
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Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:
JaSauders said:
Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:
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I don't, I'll try to grab one and post it here.
I was thinking of using the phone when cycling to track my route and so that I can see my position. I will not be going off-track often and I don't expect to be falling off the bike often . Could you recommend some good case? Thanks
I'm using this one for the past 2 years and it's really great:
http://www.topeak.com/products/bags/smartphone_drybag_5_wt
It hosted my Nexus 4, then my Z1C and now my Z3C . The great thing is that it has a clip on the back that you can attach to the regular clothes too, so I can use it also if I go hiking or rowing.
You will have to use a bluetooth adapter during those times because the phone will be enclosed 100%.
super cheap yet very solid and functional:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Phone-H...896?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa4bf55a8
I'm a bike commuter and like to have my phone on my handlebars every day either as speedometer, clock or music player. I've used a number of different mounts with varying degrees of success.
Right now, I'm a huge fan of QuadLock (quad lock case dot com) . For the Z3c, you'd need to get a secure 3rd party case case (not sure which would be the most secure, maybe the Ringke Fusion? or Terrapin? I dunno), then get the Bike Kit which includes the bike mount and the universal adapter. I've used this setup with three different phone/case combo's thus far and each has been rock solid.
I can't comment on the earlier poster's ebay mount, but I can offer some advantages of the Quadlock over the Topeak bag. A huge benefit of the Topeak is that it's a dry bag, protecting your phone from the elements. But, that's not a concern with the Z3c since it's water/dust proof. And, the downside of the Topeak is that it can overheat, they warn about this on the Topeak site, and I've experienced it with other enclosed mounts. Also, with the Quadlock, you will still have access to charging (depending on your case) either from a battery pack or a hub gen if you have one - I've done both.
The downside of the Quadlock is that it's $40 USD. But, being the most reliable one I've tried thus far, I don't have a problem with that cost.
HTH,
Jack
Hey Jack, I'd like to get your opinions after using Quadlock after a year. I'm looking for most robust option. Quadlock has dedicated products for iPhones and some other devices but they recommended universal adaptor for Z3C. But I don't trust the adhesive that will be mounted on Z3C case. Have you had any issues with this? I suppose you have used Universal adaptor as well.
I can also buy a more up-to-date and compatible product that supports charging while using the device. I have a Roswheel front bag on frame for Z3C. Basically I'm not happy with using it. But I can use it to house my charger and from there an extension of charging cable to Phone at handlebar could do the trick. What do you think? Of course this is a rare case scenario. I'm not a great fan of cycling. Only joining weekend activities. Usually they take only 70 miles.
I would also appreciate a little update. I also have something similar to the bag mount. Quadlock looks really cool, but I can't justify the price.
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
If your headset stem is square-section, the easiest way to mount your phone is with a simple loop of elastic. Starting with the loop under the stem, pull up loops along the left and right sides of the stem. Then thread your phone through those loops so it's sitting on top of your stem. Our phones are waterproof, so no need for a case. They also have those tiny wrist-band strap holes at the bottom which you can use to make a secure back-up to stop the phone hitting the floor if the elastic fails.
I cycled across Europe like this last summer - absolutely perfect tool for the job.
Got my Samsung LED wallet case today. Aside from the fact that this one closes more "securely" (doesn't lift up from the face without gravitational assistance), it's really no different from the Note7 and S7 Edge LED cases that I've previously owned. Very cool, nonetheless.
I forgot to mention that, while I'm not at all surprised that wireless charging works as expected with this case, I was quite pleased to find that there is no need to remove the note from the LED case to use the DeX Dock. It fits and works perfectly.
I wanted to get it but opted for the S-View case. I'm weary of spending the money on it because of the crappy ribbon that failed twice on the S7E last year.
Question on the LED case
Sorry to dig up an old thread but I thought you might be able to help me. I am about to purchase the Note 8 and I am looking at the LED case as I want to protect the screen of the phone.
In my vehicle I use a phone mount, RAM X-grip to be specific. If I open the case do you think I can continue to use this phone mount or will it distort the case and cause issues?
If it will cause issues can you use a magnetic mount with this case or will it interfere with the operation of the case or phone having a magnet on the rear of the phone?
Thanks for any help you can provide, I am just trying to figure this all out before I get the phone.
1. There is delicate electric ribbon from back to front part of the cover. Putting strain on the opened cover may damage the electronic connection and stop LEDs functioning well
2. I would advice against to connect any magnet to the phone (via case or directly) as it may/will interfere with S-pen/digitizer and wireless charging.
I have LED cover on Note 8 myself (like I did on Note 4) and I change cover to a simple non-flip case in the rare instances I use phone for navigation in rental cars. Other than that my phone is in center console. My only use in my car is through car infotainment system (play music, answer calls, have incoming messages read to me) so no need to present screen in holder (distracting and therefor dangerous anyway)
HuckFinn said:
Sorry to dig up an old thread but I thought you might be able to help me. I am about to purchase the Note 8 and I am looking at the LED case as I want to protect the screen of the phone.
In my vehicle I use a phone mount, RAM X-grip to be specific. If I open the case do you think I can continue to use this phone mount or will it distort the case and cause issues?
If it will cause issues can you use a magnetic mount with this case or will it interfere with the operation of the case or phone having a magnet on the rear of the phone?
Thanks for any help you can provide, I am just trying to figure this all out before I get the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I definitely wouldn't put it in the RAM X-grip with the case folded back because that would not be good on the ribbon as mentioned. I do use mine with a magnet mount in both my vehicles and sometimes for hands free use in the shop and LOVE it. Its so easy to just toss it on there anytime effortlessly with not even really looking. I can never go back.
Magnet will not interfere with the case at all but it will cause a distortion field for the S-pen but all things considered you really shouldn't be using the S-pen while you driving anyways. :good:
Can you tell me which magnet mount you have. I purchased one and put the metal strip between the phone and case and the magnet simply is not strong enough to hold the phone securely. My vehicle is a Jeep Wrangler, so the ride is a bit bumpy. The phone would barely stay put sitting in the driveway, so definitely not going to hold up to driving.
I've tried the X-Grip and actually the curved rubber pads on the X-Grip actually press against the hard plastic shell portion around the phone and not really against the soft spine of the case. I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. If the LEDs fail I will report back to say I should've listened
HuckFinn said:
Can you tell me which magnet mount you have. I purchased one and put the metal strip between the phone and case and the magnet simply is not strong enough to hold the phone securely. My vehicle is a Jeep Wrangler, so the ride is a bit bumpy. The phone would barely stay put sitting in the driveway, so definitely not going to hold up to driving.
I've tried the X-Grip and actually the curved rubber pads on the X-Grip actually press against the hard plastic shell portion around the phone and not really against the soft spine of the case. I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. If the LEDs fail I will report back to say I should've listened
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use THIS one in my wifes SUV. Its not as strong as the one in my truck, but where I have it positioned it rests on top of the vent turn wheels and is supported perfectly. I've never had it move while driving. Even if I don't get it centered on the magnet just right its never moved.
THIS is the one I use in my truck and its noticeably stronger than the Spigen in my wifes car. My truck is an F250 with 6" lift offroad kit and giant mudder tires that beat the hell out of you just driving down the road and my phone doesn't budge on this mount *as long as you snap the phone on centered* If you place the phone off centered it will start to tilt a little after you've been driving for a bit. I did take it off road just a little bit and really gave it some good vibrations to see if I could make it fall and I was unable to get it to pop off of there.
---------- Post added at 09:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 AM ----------
HuckFinn said:
Can you tell me which magnet mount you have. I purchased one and put the metal strip between the phone and case and the magnet simply is not strong enough to hold the phone securely. My vehicle is a Jeep Wrangler, so the ride is a bit bumpy. The phone would barely stay put sitting in the driveway, so definitely not going to hold up to driving.
I've tried the X-Grip and actually the curved rubber pads on the X-Grip actually press against the hard plastic shell portion around the phone and not really against the soft spine of the case. I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. If the LEDs fail I will report back to say I should've listened
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use THIS one in my wifes SUV. Its not as strong as the one in my truck, but where I have it positioned it rests on top of the vent turn wheels and is supported perfectly. I've never had it move while driving. Even if I don't get it centered on the magnet just right its never moved.
THIS is the one I use in my truck and its noticeably stronger than the Spigen in my wifes car. My truck is an F250 with 6" lift offroad kit and giant mudder tires that beat the hell out of you just driving down the road and my phone doesn't budge on this mount *as long as you snap the phone on centered* If you place the phone off centered it will start to tilt a little after you've been driving for a bit. I did take it off road just a little bit and really gave it some good vibrations to see if I could make it fall and I was unable to get it to pop off of there.
Any other alternative car mounts for those with official led cover?
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